. 
\  ukiMiy 


THE  LATE  WM.  B.  BLOYS 


THE  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS 

MOUNTAINS  AND  BIG 

BEND  COUNTRY 


A  HISTORY 

BY 

CARLYSLE  GRAHAM  RAHT 


DRAWINGS  BY 

WALDO  WILLIAMS 


THE  RAHTBOOKS  COMPANY 

EL  PASO 


COPYRIGHT  1919 
BY  C.  G.  RAHT  AND  O.  W.  WILLIAMS 


Bancroft  Library 
2  55 


This  volume  is  dedicated 
to  the  memory 

of  the  late 
William  B.  Bloys 


jr> 


PREFACE. 

I  claim  no  literary  merit  for  this  work.  Its  very  nature, 
wherein  truth  of  statements  is  of  the  first  importance,  precludes 
the  possibility  of  artistic  writing.  In  gathering  my  data  I  have 
attempted  to  eliminate  the  personal  viewpoint  of  the  narrator, 
as  well  as  of  myself.  I  have  used  much  material  as  it  was 
given  to  me,  simply  because  I  feel  that  the  original  expresses 
more  clearly  than  I  could  express  the  subject  dealt  with. 

I  have  tried  to  produce  a  work  that  will  be  of  value  to  my 
readers.  This  book  has  been  written  under  varying  and  trying 
circumstances.  It  has  taken  me  two  and  a  half  years  to  compile 
my  data  and  write  the  manuscript.  During  that  time  I  traveled 
57,000  miles  in  a  car,  over  good  roads  and  bad  and  in  all  sorts 
of  weather.  My  work  has  been  interrupted  by  both  sickness 
and  sorrow,  and  very  often  my  feet  have  wavered  from  the 
path  I  had  chosen  for  them  to  tread.  Still,  I  feel  that  I  have 
done  my  best  and  that  there  are  many  who  will  appreciate  this 
work.  For  those  I  am  writing  this  introduction. 

It  is  impossible  to  name  separately  the  sources  from  which 
I  have  drawn  my  material,  and  I  must  rest  content  to  express 
my  appreciation  collectively  to  the  hundreds  who  have  con- 
tributed their  knowledge  to  this  book.  The  cover  design  was 
drawn  by  Mr.  Waldo  Williams,  who,  like  myself,  ris  a  native 
of  the  Southwest.  To  him  and  his  father,  Judge  6.  W.  Wil- 
liams, I  owe  much  material  and  many  suggestions.  I  further 
wish  to  thank  for  assistance  rendered  and  data  given,  Mr. 
Barry  Scobee,  Capt.  J.  B.  Gillett,  Capt.  John  R.  Hughes,  Col. 
Geo.  T.  Langhorne,  Mrs.  Julia  Lee  Brown,  Lieut.  H.  O.  Flipper, 
and  C.  E.  Way. 

In  this  work  I  have  tried  to  convey  something  of  the  real 
West  as  it  was  and  as  it  is.  I  have  before  me  a  letter  from  an 
old  pioneer,  which  breathes  the  spirit  of  the  West.  He  says — 
"The  West?  There  is  no  more  West.  It  lives  only  in  memory 


THE  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 
AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY 


CHAPTER  I 

The  first  white  man  to  set  foot  in  the  Big  Bend  of  Texas 
was  Alvar  Nunez  Cabeza  de  Vaca,  the  Spanish  adventurer. 
Forty-three  years  after  Columbus  discovered  America,  de  Vaca 
discovered  the  Big  Bend.  He  found  a  great  region  of  lofty 
peaks  and  deep  canyons,  magnificent  valleys  and  wind-swept 
plains — a  region,  which  is  an  empire  in  itself,  three  times  the 
size  of  Belgium,  and  equal  in  area  to  Ireland,  South  Carolina, 
or  Maine. 

The  Big  Bend  embraces  the  extreme  southwestern  portion 
of  Texas,  in  the  heart  of  the  Spanish  Southwest,  and  is  some- 
times called  the  Lower  Panhandle,  from  the  fact  that  it  forms 
an  entering  wedge  between  New  Mexico,  on  the  north,  and 
the  Republic  of  Mexico,  on  the  south.  Again  it  is  often 
referred  to — and  correctly  so — as  the  Trans-Pecos  region,  as 
it  b  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  Pecos  River ;  but  more  prom- 
inently it  is  bounded  on  the  south  and  west  by  the  Rio  Grande, 
which  here  forms  a  great  bend,  or  curve,  embracing  three- 
fourths  of  the  entire  territory.  For  this  reason,  it  is  deemed 
proper  to  refer  to  it  as  the  Big  Bend  country. 

In  the  dark  days  of  the  Spanish  Inquisition,  so  runs  the 
legend,  the  Kings  of  Castile,  Aragon,  and  Navarre,  respectively, 
were  seated  in  grave  council  beneath  the  canopy  of  their  joint 
council  tent.  About  them  were  gathered  their  captains  and 
soldiers — the  flower  of  Spanish  knighthood. 

Up  in  the  mountain  passes,  strongly  entrenched,  crouched 
the  Moors.  Far  outnumbering  their  Spanish  foes,  and  con- 

1 


2  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

scious  of  their  strength,  they  patiently  awaited  the  hour  to 
strike  a  fatal  blow. 

Realizing  their  desperate  plight,  the  Spanish  kings  looked 
at  their  followers  in  growing  perplexity.  Should  these  soldiers 
be  hurled  against  the  Moors,  in  a  desperate  effort  to  break 
through  the  coils,  which  daily  grew  tighter  about  the  allied 
armies  ? 

The  answer  came  in  an  unusual  manner  and  from  an 
unexpected  quarter.  A  sentry,  closely  guarding  a  peasant  in 
the  garb  of  a  goat-herd,  pushed  through  the  soldier  throng,  to 
the  feet  of  the  three  kings.  "Sires,"  said  he,  bringing  up  with 
a  salute,  "this  man  begs  an  audience  with  your  Majesties." 

"Let  him  speak,"  said  the  King  of  Castile,  although  he 
frowned  at  the  interruption. 

The  peasant  bent  low  over  the  King's  hand.  "Sire,"  he 
said,  "my  name  is  Martin  Alhaja,  a  goat-herd.  With  your 
Majesties'  permission,  I  can  take  you  to  a  pass  that  I  know 
in  the  mountains,  which  will  lead  you  to  the  rear  of  yonder 
Moors.  I  have  marked  it  well  with  la  cabeza  de  vaca  (the  head 
of  a  cow),  so  placed  that  you  can  see  it  from  a  great  distance." 

Due  to  this  timely  information,  the  allied  armies  gained  a 
strong  position,  and  on  the  nth  day  of  July,  1212,  the  battle 
of  Las  Navas  de  Tolosa  was  fought  and  won  by  the  Spanish 
kings. 

In  payment  for  his  services,  the  humble  goat-herd  was 
ennobled,  and  he  was  given  the  name,  Cabeza  de  Vaca — "The 
Head  of  a  Cow" — to  denote  the  origin  of  his  improved  social 
condition.  From  Martin  Alhaja  descended  a  long  line  of 
explorers  and  hardy  adventurers. 

When  Governor  Panfilo  de  Narvaez  sailed  from  the  Port 
of  San  Lucar  de  Barrameda,  June  27,  1527,  with  orders  from 
Charles  V  of  Spain  to  explore  and  conquer  Florida,  he  took 
with  him  as  comptroller  and  royal  treasurer,  Alvar  Nunez 
Cabeza  de  Vaca,  a  descendant  of  the  one-time  humble  goat- 
herd. No  doubt,  in  his  day,  the  goat-herd  had  been  looked 
upon  as  being  a  great  adventurer;  but  it  remained  for  Alvar 
Nunez  and  three  followers  to  trace  their  footsteps  across  the 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  3 

American  continent,  from  ocean  to  ocean,  unarmed  and  almost 
naked,  in  the  greatest  of  all  adventures.  They  were  passed 
from  tribe  to  tribe,  sometimes  as  slaves,  at  other  times  as  gods ; 
and,  in  the  eight  years  of  their  wanderings,  they  saw  no  signs 
of  white  men  and  heard  no  speech,  except  the  unintelligible 
jargon  of  the  strange  barbarians  in  whose  midst  they  were 
thrown. 

After  reaching  the  shores  of  Florida,  misfortune  befell  the 
Narvaez  expedition.  Governor  Narvaez,  with  half  his  force, 
numbering  three  hundred  men,  marched  inland  in  quest  of  rich 
cities;  while  he  ordered  the  five  ships  to  proceed  westward, 
where  he  would  meet  them  upon  his  return  to  the  sea.  But 
few  of  his  land  force  lived  to  return,  and  those  who  did  saw 
no  ships.  Tired  of  waiting,  and  confident  that  Narvaez  and 
his  land  force  had  perished,  the  ships'  crews  had  sailed  for 
the  home  port. 

Already  starving,  the  followers  of  Narvaez  built  five  barges 
and  put  out  to  sea  in  search  of  a  Spanish  settlement  known 
to  be  at  Panuco,  near  the  present-day  seaport  of  Tampico, 
Mexico. 

In  a  storm  off  Galveston  Island,  the  barges  were  wrecked, 
and  but  a  small  remnant  landed  safely.  So  emaciated  and  ill 
were  these  that  a  dozen  only  survived.  Four  of  the  most  able- 
bodied  men  were  chosen  to  explore  down  the  coast  in  search  for 
Panuco,  which  the  Spaniards  believed  to  be  nearby. 

Following  the  departure  of  these  men,  the  weather  turned 
cold — so  bitterly  cold  that  the  Indians,  who  had  been  feeding 
the  Spaniards  on  roots  and  fish  caught  from  the  water's  edge, 
could  no  longer  work.  The  crude  lodges  afforded  but  scant 
shelter  or  warmth,  and  both  Indians  and  Spaniards  died.  De 
Vaca  says,  in  his  naive  way,  that  "five  Christians,  quartered 
on  the  coast,  were  driven  to  such  extremity  that  they  ate  each 
other  up,  until  but  one  remained,  who,  being  left  alone,  there 
was  nobody  to  eat  him." 

Almost  immediately  following  the  shipwreck  and  disinte- 
gration of  the  Narvaez  expedition,  de  Vaca  had  been  made  a 
captive  by  the  Indians,  and  he  remained  a  slave  for  six  years 


4  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

before  he  attempted  to  escape.  The  reason  for  this  long 
deferred  attempt  was  due  to  the  fact  that  on  an  island  not 
far  from  the  abode  of  de  Vaca's  captors,  there  lived  another 
member  of  the  shipwrecked  expedition,  Lope  de  Oviedo,  by 
name.  Every  year  de  Vaca  went  over  to  the  island  where  lived 
this  man  and  tried  to  persuade  him  to  go  in  search  of  their 
countrymen.  But  each  year  Oviedo  put  off  going,  until  the 
sixth  year,  when  he  consented  to  accompany  de  Vaca  on  his 
westward  journey. 

The  island,  where  de  Vaca  found  Oviedo,  was  appro- 
priately called  the  "Island  of  111  Fate,"  and  at  the  time  the 
two  Spaniards  began  their  journey,  they  very  reasonably  sup- 
posed that  all  of  their  companions  had  perished.  However, 
after  journeying  across  four  rivers,  the  fugitives  met  Indians 
of  another  tribe,  who  told  them  that  further  on  were  three 
white  men.  De  Vaca  called  these  Indians  the  Guevenes,  and 
from  them  he  also  learned  the  fate  of  divers  other  Christians 
who  had  suffered  great  hardships  and  brutalities  at  the  hands 
of  the  savages.  By  way  of  illustrating  their  accounts  of  ill 
treatment  of  the  Christians,  the  Guevenes  beat  and  kicked 
Oviedo  in  such  a  manner  that  death  almost  resulted,  and  de 
Vaca  modestly  stated  that  "neither  did  I  remain  without  my 
share  of  it." 

As  a  result  of  this  ill-treatment,  Oviedo  refused  to  pro- 
ceed further,  preferring  to  return  to  the  known  dangers  and 
hardships  on  the  Island  of  111  Fate,  rather  than  face  new 
perils.  It  is  regrettable  that  Oviedo  should  have  deserted  de 
Vaca  here,  because  in  later  years  both  men  wrote  largely  of 
their  experiences,  and  no  doubt  the  combined  observation  of 
the  two  concerning  what  lay  between  the  two  oceans  would 
have  given  a  very  complete  and  reliable  history  of  the  most 
remarkable  journey  ever  undertaken  by  civilized  man. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  no  settlement  had  yet  been 
founded  in  the  United  States.  The  great  exploration  move- 
ment, which  started  in  England  to  counteract  Spanish  explora- 
tions, was  yet  in  its  infancy.  The  voyage,  which  resulted  in 
the  founding  of  Jamestown,  was  undreamed  of,  and  the  set- 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  5 

tling  of  St.  Augustine  and  Santa  Fe  was  the  work  of  a  later 
generation. 

These  were  the  conditions  which  confronted  the  intrepid 
explorer,  Alvar  Nunez  Cabeza  de  Vaca,  when  he  took  sorrow- 
ful leave  of  Oviedo  and  saw  his  fellow-outcast  take  the  "back 
trail."  But  one  gleam  of  hope  remained  to  keep  black  despair 
from  overwhelming  de  Vaca:  somewhere  further  on  were 
three  Christians  like  himself,  and  he  turned  his  attention  to 
establishing  communication  with  them  so  that  he  might  per- 
suade them  to  undertake  the  perilous  journey  with  him. 

In  the  six  years  of  slavery,  de  Vaca  had  learned  many  things 
about  the  ways  and  customs  of  the  savages,  which,  while  vary- 
ing slightly  with  each  tribe,  remained  basically  the  same 
throughout  the  country  in  which  he  lived.  During  these  years 
of  servitude,  which  he  spent  so  miserably  on  the  Island  of  111 
Fate  and  the  nearby  mainland,  he  became  practiced  in  two 
arts.  These  were  the  art  of  healing  and  the  art  of  barter.  The 
first  of  these  he  had  of  necessity  acquired  that  he  might,  in 
some  degree,  escape  the  ill-treatment  accorded  him  by  his  brutal 
masters.  Even  the  Indians  must  have  felt  the  influence  of  de 
Vaca's  personality,  for  while  they  beat  and  cuffed  him  unmer- 
cifully, they  elevated  him  to  the  position  of  medicine-man,  a 
place  of  high  honor  among  them. 

De  Vaca's  manner  of  healing  varied  slightly  from  that  of 
the  Indian  medicine-men.  The  general  practice  of  the  Indians 
was  to  make  a  few  cuts  where  the  pain  was  located  and  then 
suck  the  skin  around  the  incisions.  After  this  they  cauterized 
with  fire — a  method  which  de  Vaca  says  was  very  effective. 
However,  this  method  caused  great  pain  to  the  sufferer,  and 
produced  a  very  small  per  cent  of  cures. 

Contrary  to  this  method,  de  Vaca  made  the  sign  of  the 
cross  while  breathing  upon  the  patients,  recited  a  Pater  Noster 
and  Ava  Maria,  prayed  God  to  give  them  good  health,  and 
"inspire  them  to  do  us  some  favors."  In  answer  to  this  not 
entirely  disinterested  prayer,  de  Vaca  says,  "Thanks  to  His 
will  and  the  mercy  He  had  upon  us,  all  those  for  whom  we 
prayed,  as  soon  as  we  crossed  them,  told  the  others  that  they 


6  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

were  cured  and  felt  well  again."  This  innocent  statement 
would  lead  one  to  believe  that  the  patient  preferred  to  lie  in 
favor  of  the  Christian  medicine-man,  rather  than  have  to 
undergo  the  pain  and,  perhaps,  torture  inflicted  by  the  Indian 
methods. 

For  a  time  de  Vaca  fared  better,  but  so  great  was  the  lack 
of  food  that  sometimes  he  remained  without  eating  for  three 
days.  Finally,  unable  to  stand  the  torments  of  hunger  and 
receiving  such  brutal  treatment  at  the  hands  of  the  Indians,  he 
decided  to  run  away.  So  he  struck  out  for  the  mainland,  where 
he  fell  in  with  a  tribe  who  treated  him  well.  These 
Indians  persuaded  de  Vaca  to  become  a  trader  so  that  he 
might  go  from  tribes  along  the  coast  to  those .  further  inland, 
bartering  and  exchanging  those  commodities  held  in  esteem 
by  the  different  tribes.  Thus  de  Vaca  would  start  from  the 
coast  with  a  stock  in  trade  composed  of  sea  shell,  cockles  and 
shell  beads,  journey  inland,  and  shortly  return  with  hides  for 
clothing;  red  ocher,  with  which  the  Indians  rubbed  and  dyed 
their  hair  and  faces ;  flint  for  arrow  points ;  glue  and  hard 
canes,  with  which  they  made  arrow  shafts  and  many  ornaments. 

It  was  impossible  for  de  Vaca  to  gain  a  speaking  acquain- 
tance with  all  of  the  Indian  tongues  which  he  heard  while  a 
trader.  Still,  he  mastered  a  great  many  useful  words  and  a 
considerable  vocabulary  in  the  common  sign  language,  which 
was  understood  at  that  time  and  is  to-day  by  all  Indians, 
whether  of  the  East  or  of  the  West. 

De  Vaca's  period  of  slavery  equipped  him  wisely  for  the 
journey  he  was  about  to  undertake.  Being  a  man  of  quick 
wit,  initiative,  and  determination,  he  looked  westward  with 
optimistic  eyes. 

Two  days  after  Oviedo  turned  back,  the  Guevenes  escorted 
de  Vaca  to  a  grove  of  pecan  trees  about  three  miles  from  the 
Indian  village,  and  de  Vaca  found  Andres  Dorantes,  one  of 
the  three  of  whom  the  Guevenes  had  already  spoken.  Later, 
Dorantes  took  de  Vaca  to  where  was  Alonzo  del  Castillo,  the 
second  of  the  three  men  spoken  of.  These  proceeded  to  find 
Estevanico,  the  Moor,  who  was  the  third  man  of  whom  the 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  7 

Guevenes  told.  Together  the  four  plotted  to  make  their 
escape. 

From  these  men  de  Vaca  learned  many  things  that  had 
taken  place  concerning  the  shipwrecked  crews  of  the  five 
barges.  Governor  Narvaez  had  been  swept  out  to  sea  and 
lost.  One  by  one  the  other  members  of  the  crews  were 
accounted  for.  The  four  concluded  that  the  ships,  with  those 
on  board  who  had  not  joined  the  land  expedition  of  Governor 
Narvaez,  must  have  returned  to  Spain.  There  remained  but 
one  thing  for  them  to  do — act  upon  the  suggestion  of  de  Vaca 
and  proceed  westward  in  search  of  the  Spanish  colonies  known 
to  exist  in  Sinaloa,  Mexico. 

It  was  now  necessary  to  lull  the  suspicions  of  the  Indians, 
so  that  the  Indians  might  not  kill  them  and  thus  prevent  their 
escape.  So  de  Vaca  decided  to  remain  six  months  longer 
with  these  Indians,  who  were  called  Mariames.  With  them 
also  stayed  Dorantes;  and  again  de  Vaca  found  himself  a 
slave — although,  for  once,  a  willing  one.  The  family  to  whom 
de  Vaca  and  Dorantes  belonged,  consisting  of  their  master,  his 
wife,  their  son,  and  another  Indian,  were  all  cross-eyed.  Cas- 
tillo and  Estevanico  belonged  to  their  neighbors,  the  Iguaces. 

These  people,  the  Mariames  and  Iguaces,  stand  out  more 
dearly  in  their  tribal  characteristics  than  any  other  people  with 
whom  de  Vaca  came  in  contact.  Dorantes  told  de  Vaca  that 
a  Christian,  by  name  Esquival,  had  fled  to  the  Mariames,  and 
that  because  a  woman  had  dreamed  that  he  would  kill  her  son, 
the  Indians  pursued  and  killed  him.  In  proof  of  this,  the 
Indians  had  shown  Dorantes  a  rosary,  a  prayer  book,  and  sword 
which  had  formerly  belonged  to  Esquival. 

This  was  the  bloodthirsty  people  with  whom  de  Vaca  chose 
to  remain  as  a  slave  until  the  time  came  when  they  should  move 
westward  to  the  place  of  the  tunas,  or  prickly  pears,  upon 
which  they  lived  three  months  in  the  year. 

Unlike  the  powerful,  well-organized  tribes  of  the  North, 
the  Gulf  Coast  tribes  were  broken  up  into  small,  closely  related 
family  groups,  each  so-called  tribe  representing  the  strength 
of  one  family ;  and  it  is  highly  probable  that  the  dozen  or  more 


B  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

tribes  to  which  de  Vaca  gave  tribal  names  in  his  Neufragious, 
became  known  to  Father  Massenet,  one  hundred  and  fifty  years 
later,  as  the  Kingdom  of  the  Tejas,  or  Texas. 

It  was  the  custom  of  these  Indians  to  destroy  all  girl  babies, 
because  they  might  marry  their  enemies  and  give  birth  to  chil- 
dren who  would  become  their  foes.  Their  own  wives  were 
bought  from  other  tribes,  the  price  paid  for  a  woman  being  a 
bow  and  two  arrows. 

The  women  of  these  tribes  were  compelled  to  do  all  the 
hard  work,  for  the  men  did  nothing  which  might  increase  their 
hunger.  Food  was  scarce,  consisting  largely  of  roots  and  herbs 
dug  out  of  the  ground,  although  occasionally,  due  to  their  great 
speed  and  endurance,  the  men  would  run  down  and  kill  a  deer. 
During  the  time  of  the  prickly  pear,  the  Indians  made  merry 
with  dancing  and  feasting.  They  were  joined  by  other  tribes 
from  further  west  who  traded  bows  and  arrows  for  the  dried 
tunas,  and  these  were  the  tribes  with  whom  the  Christians 
meant  to  escape. 

When  the  Franciscan  father  went  among  the  Tejas  Indians, 
he  noted  a  much  improved  condition  over  that  which  de  Vaca 
found  and  described ;  but  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  elapsed 
between  de  Vaca's  journey  and  that  of  Father  Massenet,  and 
in  that  length  of  time  it  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that  these 
Indians  showed  some  progress.  Very  probably,  while  de  Vaca 
was  learning  much  from  them,  they  also  were  learning  much 
from  him. 

Finally  the  great  day  arrived  for  the  execution  of  their 
plans.  The  Indians  went  inland  thirty  leagues — practically 
ninety  miles — to  a  country  where  the  tunas  were  ripe.  But  the 
Christians  were  doomed  to  meet  with  disappointment.  The 
Indians  fell  out  among  themselves  about  their  women  and 
began  to  fight;  and  they  all  separated,  each  one  taking  his 
family  and  going  in  different  directions.  So  the  four  Chris- 
tians had  to  part,  but  not  before  they  agreed  to  meet  again  at 
the  same  place  the  year  following. 

A  year!  How  slowly  the  time  passed  for  the  captives! 
Back  to  the  old  life  of  drudgery  and  abuse  went  the  Christians, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  9 

not  knowing  whether  they  would  be  alive  to  meet  again.  When 
they  did  come  together  the  following  year,  they  were  separated 
by  their  captors,  and  each  one  was  sent  a  different  way.  But 
they  had  agreed  to  meet  at  the  same  spot  when  the  September 
moon  became  full.  This  they  did  and  escaped. 

At  the  time  the  four  Christians  made  their  escape  from 
their  Indian  captors,  they  were  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Lavaca 
River.  The  tunas  were  still  ripe,  and  de  Vaca  hoped  to  gain 
food  from  them  until  they  should  reach  the  tribes  further 
west  where  game  was  more  plentiful. 

De  Vaca  journeyed  along  the  Lavaca  River  which  derives 
its  name — the  Cow  River — from  the  fact  that  de  Vaca  saw 
his  first  buffalo  there.  His  description,  which  follows,  was 
the  first  description  of  the  American  bison,  or  buffalo,  ever 
printed. 

"Here  also  they  (the  Indians)  came  upon  the  cows ;  I  have 
seen  them  thrice  and  have  eaten  their  meat.  They  appear  to 
me  of  the  size  of  those  in  Spain.  Their  horns  are  small,  like 
those  of  the  Moorish  cattle;  the  hair  is  very  long,  like  fine 
wool  and  like  a  peajacket ;  some  are  brownish  and  others  are 
black,  and  to  my  taste  they  have  better  and  more  meat  than 
those  from  here  (de  Vaca  wrote  his  account  in  Spain).  Of  the 
small  hides  the  Indians  make  blankets  to  cover  themselves 
with,  and  of  the  taller  ones  they  make  shoes  and  targets.  These 
cows  come  from  the  north,  across  the  country  further  on,  to 
the  coast  of  Florida,  and  are  found  all  over  the  land  for  over 
four  hundred  leagues.  On  this  whole  stretch,  through  the 
valleys  by  which  they  come,  people  who  live  there  descend  to 
subsist  upon  their  flesh.  And  a  great  quantity  of  hides  are  met 
with  inland." 

From  here  the  four  wanderers  struck  out  boldly  into  the 
Unknown,  keeping  their  general  course  westward,  although 
on  account  of  natural  obstacles  they  were  often  deflected  north- 
ward from  their  course.  For  one  thing,  Castillo  and  Dorantes 
could  not  swim.  This  made  it  necessary  that  shallow  fords 
should  be  sought  in  the  rivers  they  crossed.  Then,  too,  in 
order  to  obtain  food  and  be  able  to  learn  the  whereabouts  of 


10  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

nearby  Spaniards,  should  there  be  any,  they  were  compelled 
to  lay  their  course  from  village  to  villdge. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  first  day,  the  tired  fugitives  saw 
a  camp  smoke  at  a  distance ;  and  near  sunset  they  struck  the 
village  of  the  Avavares.  These  Indians  de  Vaca  had  known 
when  they  had  brought  bows  and  ornaments  to  barter  with 
his  former  captors ;  and  for  this  reason,  as  well  as  because  of 
his  reputation  as  a  medicine-man,  de  Vaca  and  his  companions 
were  made  welcome. 

Hardly  had  the  Christians  been  properly  lodged  before  a 
number  of  Indians  went  to  Castillo  and  begged  him  to  relieve 
them  of  their  sickness.  De  Vaca  says  that  as  quickly  as  Castillo 
made  the  sign  of  the  cross  over  the  sick  one  and  recommended 
him  to  God,  all  pain  and  illness  disappeared.  In  return,  the 
Indians  brought  to  them  many  tunas  and  pieces  of  venison, 
and  so  large  a  number  of  Indians  were  cured  that  the  Chris- 
tians had  not  room  wherein  to  store  the  meat. 

But  the  Indians  of  the  sixteenth  century  were  as  improv- 
ident as  those  of  later  time ;  and  after  five  days  of  feasting  and 
celebrating,  during  which  the  Indians  ate  their  store  of  tunas, 
or  prickly  peai,  and  venison,  they  began  to  suffer  greatly  from 
hunger.  This  forced  them  to  move  to  another  spot  where  the 
tunas  were  plentiful. 

At  this  new  camp,  de  Vaca  became  separated  from  the 
others  and  was  lost  for  five  days.  During  this  time  he  tasted 
no  food  and,  being  naked,  he  suffered  from  cold  and  bleeding 
feet.  Just  as  he  was  about  to  give  up,  he  happened  to  strike 
the  shore  of  a  river  and  there  found  the  camp  of  his  Indians. 

The  fame  of  the  Christians  had  gone  all  over  the  Indian 
country,  so  that  wherever  the  Christians  went  they  were  sought 
after  to  cure  the  sick  and  bless  the  well.  In  this  new  spot  came 
many  different  tribes  in  quest  of  tunas,  and  among  them  they 
brought  five  people  who  were  paralyzed.  These  Indians,  Cas- 
tillo was  called  upon  to  cure,  which  he  did,  as  de  Vaca  affirms 
that  God  "seeing  there  was  no  other  way  of  getting  those  people 
to  help  us  so  that  we  might  be  saved  from  our  miserable  exist- 
ence, had  mercy  upon  us,  and  in  the  morning  all  awoke  in  such 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  11 

good  health  as  if  they  never  had  had  any  ailment  whatever." 
Up  to  this  time,  Dorantes  and  Estevanico,  the  Moor,  had  not 
made  any  cures ;  but  the  business  of  healing  grew  to  such  pro- 
portions that  they,  too,  were  compelled  to  become  medicine- 
men. 

After  leaving  these  Indians,  with  whom  tkey  remained  over 
a  year,  the  Christians  made  rapid  progress  westward,  and 
while  they  encountered  many  hardships  and  suffered  hunger 
many  times  almost  to  the  point  of  death,  still  they  fared  much 
better  than  they  had  fared  in  the  coast  country. 

So  westward  toward  the  Pecos  River  marched  de  Vaca, 
Castillo,  Dorantes,  and  the  Moor.  Sometimes  they  were  alone, 
hungry,  and  almost  dead  of  thirst ;  at  other  times  they  formed 
a  triumphal  procession,  with  followers  numbering  three  or 
four  thousand,  whose  reverence  and  abject  fear  felt  for  the 
divine  beings  sent  among  them  to  cure  and  bless  them,  caused 
de  Vaca  to  say  with  some  impatience  "that  it  was  very  tire- 
some to  breathe  on  and  make  the  sign  of  the  cross  on  every 
morsel  of  food  they  ate  or  drank." 

In  this  country,  through  which  the  Christians  traveled,  the 
Indians  smoked  tobacco  and  drank  an  intoxicating  liquor, 
which  they  brewed  from  the  leaves  of  a  tree  something  like  the 
water  oak.  The  intoxicant  might  have  been  an  early  form  of 
mescal,  so  extensively  used  by  the  Mexican  Indian  of  to-day. 
Here  the  Indians  celebrated  the  coming  of  the  Christians  with 
a  great  feast,  at  which  they  ate  the  mezquizuez,  or  the  mesquite- 
bean.  This  bean  the  Indians  pounded  up  into  a  meal  which 
they  mixed  with  earth  and  water,  and  which  de  Vaca  says 
tasted  very  palatable  to  them.  The  Christians  must  have  been 
hungry,  indeed ! 

Now  began  a  journey  through  many  tribes,  halting  only 
long  enough  in  a  village  to  secure  guides  to  conduct  them  to 
the  next.  After  traveling  until  late  in  the  afternoon,  the  four 
Christians  crossed  a  large  river,  waist  deep  and  swift  of  cur- 
rent. And  at  sunset  they  reached  an  Indian  village.  Here 
the  people  met  them  with  much  noise,  which  was  made  mainly 
with  perforated  gourds  filled  with  pebbles,  which  the  Indians 


12  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

told  the  Christians  came  from  Heaven,  and  were  sent  down 
the  river  to  them  when  the  spring  rises  set  in  and  overflowed 
the  land. 

De  Vaca  often  had  a  following  of  a  great  many  people.  While 
this  was  ascribed  largely  to  the  belief  in  his  divinity,  still  it  was 
in  a  measure  due  to  a  mercenary  reason.  It  was  the  custom 
when  de  Vaca  and  his  companions  reached  a  village,  for  those 
who  came  with  him,  guides  as  well  as  his  followers,  to  take  all 
of  the  possessions  of  the  Indians  in  that  particular  place.  In 
this  way  the  last  followers  of  the  Christians  returned  to  their 
villages  reimbursed  for  those  things  of  which  they  had  lately 
been  robbed;  and  the  people  of  the  last  village  to  which  the 
Christians  had  come  learned  this  custom  from  those  Indians 
who  had  despoiled  them,  and  followed  de  Vaca  to  the  next 
tribe,  with  the  expectation  of  being  reimbursed  for  the  things 
which  they  had  recently  lost. 

Perhaps  this  was  fortunate  for  de  Vaca,  as  at  all  times  it 
kept  him  well  supplied  with  guides.  That  the  Indians  did  not 
bewail  their  losses,  but  rather  looked  forward  to  despoiling 
the  tribe  further  on,  is  evident,  for  they  told  de  Vaca  not  to 
permit  this  custom  to  worry  him,  as  the  tribes  further  on  were 
rich.  t 

The  Christians  now  began  to  see  mountains  in  the  distance, 
and  the  Indians  near  them  were  of  good  physique  and  lighter 
skinned  than  any  the  Christians  had  seen  in  the  land.  Further- 
more, these  Indians  were  quite  intelligent,  for  after  those  who 
arrived  with  the  Christians  had  sacked  their  dwellings,  they 
gave  to  the  white  men  strings  of  beads,  ocher,  bags  of  mica, 
and  other  ornaments,  which  they  had  hidden  away  for  this  pur- 
pose. Knowing  the  custom  of  pillaging,  the  next  day,  when  de 
Vaca  was  about  to  leave,  these  Indians  tried  to  prevail  upon 
him  to  go  to  their  friends  who  dwelt  on  the  spur  of  the  moun- 
tain. As  an  inducement,  they  said  there  were  a  great  many 
lodges,  and  the  people  would  give  much  to  the  Christians.  This 
would  have  been  good  business  for  the  Indians,  as  they  knew 
the  Christians  took  nothing  themselves,  but  gave  it  to  their 
followers.  Also,  they  said  that  nobody  lived  where  the  whites 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  13 

intended  going,  neither  were  there  tunas  nor  any  other  kinds 
of  food.  But  de  Vaca  persisted  in  maintaining  his  course,  and 
sadly  these  Indians  turned  back  down  the  river. 

For  four  days,  de  Vaca  and  his  companions  marched  up  this 
river.  Then  they  turned  westward  fifty  leagues,  following  the 
direction  of  the  mountains.  Here  they  found  a  village  where 
they  remained  a  fortnight.  Leaving  this  village,  they  crossed 
a  mountain  seven  leagues  long,  and  reached  another  village 
situated  on  the  banks  of  a  beautiful  river. 

Here  the  Christians  saw  for  the  first  time  the  signs  of 
precious  metals,  the  hopes  of  finding  which  had  motivated 
Spanish  explorations  more  than  recovering  the  lost  souls  of 
the  savages.  The  Indians  gave  Dorantes  a  big  rattle  of  copper, 
upon  which  was  represented  a  face,  and  which  appeared  to 
de  Vaca  to  have  been  cast  in  a  foundry.  Again,  another  tribe 
gave  them  pouches  of  mica  and  powdered  antimony  (silver). 
Also,  these  people  ate  tunas  and  nuts  of  the  pine,  which  grew 
on  the  small  trees  of  sweet  pines.  Here  de  Vaca  proved  him- 
self skilled  in  surgery,  by  cutting  an  arrow-head  from  the  breast 
of  a  savage,  where  it  was  athwart  and  had  pierced  a  cartilage; 
while  with  a  deer-bone  he  made  two  stitches.  Before  de  Vaca 
left  the  village,  the  Indian  had  wholly  recovered  and  the  wound 
had  closed  up.  This  successful  operation  increased  de  Vaca's 
fame  ten- fold. 

After  many  days  they  reached  the  breaks  and  canyons  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Pecos  River.  The  Indians  here  were 
great  hunters,  and  so  large  had  de  Vaca's  following  grown  that 
it  took  one-half  of  them  hunting  constantly  to  supply  them  all 
with  food.  While  some  who  carried  bows  and  arrows  hunted 
along  the  canyons'  edges  for  deer,  quail,  and  other  game,  others, 
armed  with  clubs  three  hands  in  length,  hunted  the  rabbit ;  and 
so  skillful  were  they,  says  de  Vaca,  that  "whenever  a  rabbit 
jumped  up  they  closed  in  upon  the  game  and  rained  such  blows 
upon  it  that  it  was  amazing  to  see,  .  .  .  and  when  at  night  we 
camped  they  had  given  us  so  many  that  each  one  of  us  had 
eight  or  ten  loads." 

While  continuing  in  a  general  westerly  direction,  but  still 


14  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

in  the  country  of  many  breaks  and  canyons,  the  Christians 
came  suddenly  upon  the  banks  of  the  Pecos  River.  This  river 
they  crossed  and  continued  for  thirty  leagues  over  a  great  plain, 
before  they  struck  rugged  mountains  again.  Here  also  they 
found  a  different  people.  At  the  end  of  this  distance,  guided  by 
these  new  people,  the  Christians  journeyed  fifty  leagues  through 
rugged  mountains,  arid  and  devoid  of  game.  They  now  came 
to  a  river  that  flowed  between  mountains — the  Rio  Grande,  a 
short  distance  below  Presidio,  Texas,  in  the  Big  Bend;  and 
here  for  the  first  time  they  saw  a  village  composed  of  real 
houses. 

From  this  point  in  his  travels,  de  Vaca  gives  us  little  infor- 
mation regarding  his  route  and  the  characteristics  of  the  Indians 
with  whom  he  came  in  contact.  He  considers  it  sufficient  to 
say  that  he  journeyed  westward,  until  in  April,  1536,  he  came 
upon  a  party  of  Spanish  horsemen,  who  conducted  him  to  the 
settlement  of  San  Miguel. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  15 


CHAPTER  II 

There  is  no  story  of  the  sixteenth  century  more  romantic 
than  that  told  in  the  Neufragious  of  Cabeza  de  Vaca.  The  hero 
starts  out,  armed  in  his  panoply  of  the  sixteenth  century  war- 
fare, to  the  discovery  of  some  impossible  Eldorado.  He  becomes 
the  victim  of  cruel  enemies ;  he  suffers  all  that  man  can  imagine 
of  the  horrors  of  shipwreck  and  slavery ;  torn  by  thorns,  blis- 
tered by  heat,  ready  to  drop  from  starvation,  and  plainly 
doomed  to  death  by  savage  masters,  he  drags  himself  painfully 
along  on  a  tropic  coast.  From  tragic  death  he  is  saved  by 
the  sign  of  the  Cross,  becomes  a  great  medicine-man,  and, 
after  eight  years  of  suffering,  returned  to  his  jealous  country- 
men, a  naked  king  at  the  head  of  barbarian  worshipers. 

It  has  been  a  difficult  task  to  locate  precisely  the  ground 
covered  by  the  itinerary  of  this  romantic  character.  From  the 
time  when  the  survivors  of  the  Narvaez  expedition  left  Tampa 
Bay,  Florida,  in  their  boats  whose  "gunwhales  were  not  over 
one  span  above  the  water,"  until  the  naked  remnant  of  three 
whites  and  a  Barbary  negro  reached  San  Miguel,  State  of 
Sinaloa,  Mexico,  there  is  in  the  account  no  natural  object — such 
as  river,  mountain,  spring,  or  plain — mentioned  which  can  be 
positively  identified.  It  is  certain  only  that  they  voyaged  west 
from  Tampa  Bay,  necessarily  hugging  close  to  shore ;  that  they 
were  shipwrecked  in  a  storm;  that  they  were  in  slavery  for 
about  six  years;  that  they  escaped  finally  from  the  Indians 
and  started  westward,  and  in  that  land  they  passed  from  tribe 
to  tribe  as  medicine-men,  with  a  crowd  of  followers  at  times 
amounting  to  three  or  four  thousand  people;  and  that  they 
finally  came  back  to  their  countrymen  near  the  present  town 
of  Culiacan,  Sinaloa,  Mexico.  The  beginning  and  the  end  of 
the  itinerary,  as  well  as  the  point  where  these  wanderers  crossed 


16  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

the  Rio  Grande,  are  known,  and  in  addition  to  this  de  Vaca's 
route  has  been  worked  out  after  years  of  painstaking  study. 

The  element  of  vagueness  in  de  Vaca's  account  of  his  jour- 
ney which  he  gives  in  the  Neufragious,  written  over  a  year 
after  his  return  to  his  countrymen,  is  due  to  a  desire  on  the 
part  of  de  Vaca  to  report  to  King  Charles  V,  not  the  story  of 
his  personal  adventures,  but  to  convey  to  his  royal  master  an 
adequate  idea  of  the  immensity  of  the  country  which  he  had 
traversed,  the  character  of  its  productions,  and  the  kind  and 
number  of  its  inhabitants.  It  was,  one  might  say,  an  official 
report  made  to  the  crown  by  the  sole  survivors  of  an  exploring 
expedition  which  had  been  sent  out  with  the  expectation  of 
finding  a  rich  country  abounding  in  gold ;  and  in  the  report  it  is 
quite  plain  the  hope  lingered  that  such  a  country  did  exist.  So 
de  Vaca  did  not  concern  himself  with  matters  so  small  as  the 
accurate  description  of  the  natural  objects  of  any  section  of 
country  with  a  view  to  subsequent  identification. 

It  will  therefore  be  of  general  interest  to  the  reader  to  go 
into  detailed  reasons  why  de  Vaca's  route  was  outlined  as  in 
the  preceding  chapter.  Judge  O.  W.  Williams,  of  Fort  Stock- 
ton, has  given  material  assistance  in  compiling  the  following 
deductions;  and  it  might  be  worth  while  to  state  that  Judge 
Williams'  opinions,  through  a  first-hand  knowledge  of  the 
countries  traversed  by  de  Vaca  and  through  years  of  earnest 
study  of  de  Vaca's  route,  bear  great  weight. 

In  his  account,  de  Vaca  relates  that  the  tribes  of  Indians 
with  whom  he  and  the  other  Spaniards  lived  just  prior  to  their 
escape  to  the  west,  were  in  the  habit  of  migrating  at  a  certain 
season  of  the  year  to  a  part  of  the  country  where  they  lived  on 
the  fruit  of  the  prickly  pear  cactus  for  a  term  of  three  months 
in  each  year.  The  prickly  pear  is  found  in  the  Southern  States 
and  as  far  north  as  Illinois,  but  in  order  to  meet  the  require- 
ments of  de  Vaca's  narrative,  a  country  must  be  found  where 
the  prickly  pear  ripens  in  great  abundance  and  endures  long 
enough  to  furnish  food  for  the  Indians  three  months  of  the 
year.  This  is  not  the  case  generally  in  Texas,  but  applies  only 
to  that  portion  of  Texas  lying  south  of  a  line  drawn  from 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  17 

Galveston  to  Eagle  Pass.  This  gives  a  northern  limit  to  the 
location  of  de  Vaca  when  his  party  started  westward. 

The  only  objection  which  can  be  properly  urged  against 
the  legitimacy  of  this  northern  limit,  is  the  contention  that 
there  may  have  been  a  change  of  conditions  during  the  three 
hundred  and  ninety-three  years  which  have  elapsed  since  de 
Vaca  passed  through  the  country.  This  objection  as  urged 
against  the  defining  of  the  cactus  country  will  also  apply  to 
some  points  under  the  same  head  whose  value  we  shall  consider 
in  advance. 

There  are  three  ways  in  which  a  considerable  change  in  the 
natural  growths  of  this  country  might  have  been  brought  about. 
First,  we  shall  consider  the  probability  of  a  change  brought 
about  by  an  increase  or  decrease  in  the  rainfall,  or  the  humidity 
of  the  climate.  Drawing  upon  information  given  in  old  Spanish 
records  from  the  very  beginning  of  the  Spanish  occupancy  of 
Texas,  and  taking  the  Mexican  Government  reports,  and  the 
United  States  Government  reports  of  a  later  period,  up  to  the 
present  time,  there  is  nothing  of  record  to  show  a  material 
change  in  rainfall  or  climatic  conditions  in  Southwest  Texas 
during  the  past  four  hundred  years.  Certainly  there  is  no 
evidence  that  the  change  has  been  so  great  as  to  drive  out  any 
plant  or  even  to  alter  materially  the  habitat  of  any  species  of 
vegetation.  Irrigation  was  just  as  necessary  in  the  south- 
western portion  of  Texas  when  first  settled  by  the  Spaniards 
as  it  is  today.  It  is  quite  true  that  in  Southwest  Texas,  farm- 
ing without  irrigation  is  now  practiced,  while  in  earlier  settle- 
ments it  was  carried  on  solely  by  irrigation,  but  it  does  not 
follow  that  the  same  kind  of  farming  could  not  have  been 
successfully  carried  on  there  from  the  beginning  of  the  settle- 
ments. According  to  the  authorities,  the  encroachment  of 
farming  upon  lands  in  the  United  States  formerly  considered 
arid,  has  not  been  due  to  an  increased  rainfall,  but  is  attributed 
largely  to  improved  methods  of  tillage. 

The  generally  received  opinion  among  scientists  of  the 
present  day  seems  to  be  that  the  world  is  gradually,  but  very, 
very  slowly,  losing  its  humidity.  However,  this  rate  of  decrease 


18  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

is  so  small  as  to  be  of  little  consequence  in  a  period  covering 
only  four  hundred  years  of  the  world's  existence ;  hence,  so  far 
as  Texas  is  concerned,  this  decrease  has  been  so  small  that  it 
does  not  affect  our  calculations,  and  unless  some  special  cause 
of  increase  or  decrease  of  humidity  has  operated,  the  cactus 
would  remain  to-day  suited  to  growth  in  large  quantities  in  the 
same  territory  as  it  was  in  the  day  of  de  Vaca. 

But  a  change  of  habitat  may  have  occurred  through  the 
agency  of  fire.  De  Vaca  tells  us  that  the  favorite  way  of 
catching  game  to  which  the  Indians  resorted  was  to  set  fire 
to  large  areas  of  country.  This  necessarily  must  have  destroyed 
some  vegetation  and,  if  persisted  in  for  years,  must  have 
changed  its  character  to  some  extent.  At  the  present  day,  in 
West  Texas,  the  effect  of  fire  is  shown  in  the  changing  char- 
acter of  our  grasses,  and  in  many  places  some  growths  of 
grasses  have  been  completely  destroyed  and  replaced  by  other 
species.  It  is  not,  however,  always  easy  to  determine  how 
far  this  change  is  due  to  fire,  or  to  what  extent  it  may  be  due 
to  close  grazing  by  stock.  Cactus  is  not  destroyed  by  fire,  but, 
on  the  contrary,  the  destruction  of  other  vegetation  in  this 
manner  makes  way  for  an  increase  of  cactus.  If  this  be  true — 
and  those  who  have  observed  it  say  it  is  true — then  the  cactus 
belt  was  probably  not  as  far  north  four  hundred  years  ago 
as  it  is  now,  or,  possibly,  the  belt  may  remain  now  as  it  was 
then,  with  the  cactus  growth  thickest  in  the  original  belt  rather 
than  spreading  over  more  territory.  Certainly,  it  seems  prob- 
able that  whatever  effect  fires  must  have  had  in  changing  the 
character  of  vegetation,  and  of  cacti  particularly,  this  change 
must  have  long  been  accomplished  before  the  time  de  Vaca 
passed  through  Texas,  as  the  Indian  practice  of  "firing"  for 
game  was  an  ancient  one. 

The  third  point  to  be  mentioned  is  that  the  coming  of  civil- 
ized man  must  have  introduced  some  changes  in  the  vegetation 
of  Texas.  This  would  be  more  largely  due  to  the  introduction 
of  cows,  sheep,  and  horses,  and  the  dissemination  of  the  seeds 
of  foreign  and  intrusive  forms  of  vegetation.  Take,  for 
instance,  the  mesquite  tree.  De  Vaca  makes  note  of  this  tree 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  19 

only  in  East  Texas,  not  far  from  the  seacoast.  To-day,  the 
mesquite  can  be  found  from  coast  to  coast.  In  the  past  twenty 
years,  this  tree  has  made  perceptible  advance  in  the  country 
west  of  the  Pecos.  Forty  years  ago,  the  first  great  movement 
of  cattle  started  westward,  although  there  were  a  few  herds 
prior  to  that  time.  Many  of  these  herds  reached  the  Trans- 
Pecos  country,  and,  finding  good  range  there,  they  remained. 
Since  then  the  mesquite  has  encroached  on  plains  once  destitute 
of  it.  This  result  is  commonly  and  reasonably  attributed  to  the 
distribution  of  the  seeds  by  cattle  and  horses,  which  are  very 
partial  to  the  mesquite.  This  is  but  one  instance  of  many  which 
might  be  given  how  seeds  are  carried  from  one  country  to 
another. 

But  this  can  not  be  said  of  the  cactus.  It  has  been  a  few 
years  only  since  the  present  breed  of  man  entered  Texas,  and 
there  are  living  to-day  men  whose  memory  goes  back  to  the 
time  when  the  cactus  could  have  been  very  little  influenced 
in  its  habitat  by  the  advent  of  civilized  man.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  persistent,  conservative,  and  hidebound  of  our  native 
growths,  giving  way  only  with  the  greatest  reluctance,  and 
in  general  holding  tenaciously  to  time-honored  territories  and 
habits. 

The  pifion  tree,  which  will  be  brought  into  consideration 
later,  has  been,  up  to  the  last  half  century,  out  of  direct  con- 
tact with  civilization,  at  least  so  far  as  it  is  found  in  this  state ; 
consequently,  it  can  not  have  been  affected  by  the  presence  of 
man.  It  is  therefore  reasonable  to  assume  the  situation  and 
distribution  of  plants  in  this  state  to  be  very  much  the  same 
now  as  in  de  Vaca's  day,  so  far  as  the  cactus  and  pifion  are 
concerned. 

After  leaving  the  cactus  region,  de  Vaca  was  brought  in 
touch  with  a  new  kind  of  animal  life — the  American  bison,  or 
buffalo.  Just  before  de  Vaca  escaped  from  the  Indians  and 
commenced  his  westward  march  with  his  three  companions,  he 
was  at  one  of  the  summer  stations  where  the  Indians  lived 
three  months  on  prickly-pear  fruit;  consequently,  he  was  in 
the  cactus  region,  south  of  the  line  drawn  from  Galveston  to 


20  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Eagle  Pass,  and  not  far  from  the  coast.  Of  this  country,  he 
says:  "Cattle  come  as  far  as  here.  Three  times  I  have  seen 
them  and  eaten  of  their  meat";  then  follows  a  clear  descrip- 
tion of  the  buffalo  and  his  habits. 

From  the  fact  that  he  had  seen  buffalo  and  eaten  of  their 
meat  only  three  times  during  the  six  years  when  he  had 
remained  a  slave  to  the  Indians,  it  is  natural  to  conclude  that 
the  country  from  which  he  started  on  the  westward  march  was 
at  the  extreme  southern  or  southeastern  limit  of  the  buffalo 
range.  De  Vaca  says,  "Cattle  come  as  far  as  here,"  as  if 
they  did  not  go  any  farther.  By  determining  what  that  limit 
was  in  Southeastern  Texas,  in  1 535,  we  can  determine  approxi- 
mately de  Vaca's  position  before  commencing  his  western 
journey.  The  nearest  record,  in  point  of  time  and  locality, 
which  can  be  established,  is  that  left  by  La  Salle's  party  when 
they  attempted  to  settle  Fort  Saint  Louis,  about  1685,  or  one 
hundred  and  fifty  years  later. 

According  to  Parkman,  Fort  Saint  Louis  was  situated  on 
the  Lavaca  River,  near  Matagorda  Bay,  and  the  French  were 
at  this  place  in  the  summer  of  1685,  when  buffalo  were  so 
abundant  that  they  were,  in  the  words  of  the  Abbe  Jontel,  the 
"daily  bread"  for  the  French  settlers  there.  So,  at  the  time, 
the  southeastern  limit  of  the  buffalo  range  must  have  been  at 
least  as  far  south  as  the  Lavaca  River.  Up  to  the  time  Mata- 
gorda Bay  was  settled  by  the  Americans  and  the  buffalo  were 
driven  further  westward,  that  country  was  their  southeastern 
limit,  and  must  have  been  even  prior  to  the  days  of  de  Vaca 
and  La  Salle. 

The  limits  of  the  buffalo's  range,  prior  to  the  entrance  of 
man,  were  originally  set  by  natural  conditions,  such  as  abun- 
dance or  scarcity  of  grass  and  water,  or  winter  temperature ; 
so  it  can  be  definitely  stated  that  the  southern  and  southeastern 
limit  of  the  buffalo  range  was  south  of  the  Lavaca  River,  and 
we  may  safely  conclude  that  when  de  Vaca  started  westward 
he  started  from  a  point  somewhere  south  of  the  Lavaca  River. 

After  making  their  escape  from  the  Indians  here,  the  Span- 
iards marched  a  short  distance  to  another  tribe  and  concluded 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  .     21 

to  winter  with  them.  They  remained  with  these  Indians  for 
eight  months,  until  the  mesquite-bean  ripened,  when  they  again 
took  up  their  travels  westward.  The  general  course  at  which 
they  aimed  was  toward  the  setting  sun.  The  route  could  not 
be  followed  closely  all  day.  Then,  too,  the  Spaniards  planned 
to  travel  from  village  to  village  and  depend  upon  Indian  guides. 
Very  naturally,  these  guides  led  them  over  beaten  and  long 
used  trails,  which  for  various  reasons  often  deflected  from 
the  general  direction  the  Spaniards  wished  to  go.  In  part,  these 
deflections  were  caused  by  tribal  treaties  and  tribal  jealousies. 
It  was  but  natural  that  the  guides  would  lead  the  Spaniards, 
who  were  even  then  gaining  a  widespread  reputation  because 
of  their  miraculous  cures,  to  friends  rather  than  to  their 
enemies ;  consequently,  the  trail  from  one  village  to  another 
led  the  Spaniards  ^f  ar  from  their  course.  The  other  main  reason 
for  these  deflections  was  that  the  trails  followed  water-courses, 
or,  at  least,  passed  by  known  springs.  From  such  causes  their 
course  lay  north-of-west.  This  is  obvious,  for  had  their  course 
led  to  the  west,  or  south-of-west,  it  would  have  carried  them 
across  the  Rio  Grande,  and  de  Vaca  would  certainly  have 
recorded  this  fact.  Rivers  which  were  not  fordable  were 
avoided  as  much  as  possible,  due  to  the  fact  that  neither  Cas- 
tillo nor  Dorantes  could  swim. 

After  spending  many  days  on  the  march,  and  making  cures 
in  some  of  the  villages,  they  arrived  at  "many  houses  on  the 
banks  of  a  beautiful  river.  The  people  ate  prickly  pears  and 
the  seed  of  the  pine.  In  that  country  were  small  pine  trees,  the 
cones  like  little  eggs,  but  the  seed  is  better  than  that  of  Castilla, 
as  its  husk  is  very  thin  and  while  green  is  beaten  and  made  into 
balls  to  be  eaten."  This  clearly  is  a  description  of  what  is 
known  in  West  Texas  as  the  pinon  tree.  It  is  common  on  high, 
rocky  ground  west  of  the  Pecos  River,  but  is  found  east  of 
that  river  only  in  possibly  two  localities — the  one  on  the  breaks, 
or  heads  of  small  canyons,  east  of  the  Pecos  River,  and  near 
the  old  Pontoon  Bridge  Crossing;  and  the  other  in  Edwards 
County.  In  either  premise,  de  Vaca  was  obviously  being  led 
over  the  Great  Indian  Trail,  which  crosses  the  Pecos  and 


22  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

strikes  out  for  the  great  cross-roads  of  trails  at  Comanche 
Springs. 

The  Spaniards'  use  of  the  term  river,  or  "rio,"  is  very 
confusing.  Their  interpretation  of  the  word  is  different  from 
its  meaning  in  English.  We  speak  of  a  river  as  being  a  stream 
of  some  importance.  The  Spaniard  may  call  a  dry-wash,  or 
gully,  a  rio,  and  in  the  next  breath  designate  a  strong-flowing 
stream  by  the  same  term.  For  instance,  the  Spaniards  spoke 
of  the  Rio  Hondo,  Rio  Alamito,  Rio  Toyah,  Rio  Limpia,  and 
Rio  Comanche,  all  of  which  would  be  raised  to  considerable 
dignity  by  being  termed  creeks ;  but  these  names  were  fastened 
on  these  streams  in  an  early  day  by  the  Spanish  explorers,  who 
knew  no  Spanish  equivalent  to  the  English  word  "creek."  Of 
such  streams,  Edwards  County  has  several,  and  to  the  Span- 
iards they  were  "rios."  Also,  this  country  has  the  prickly-pear 
cactus  in  quantity,  although  not  in  such  abundance  as  is  to  be 
found  further  south  and  east. 

After  leaving  this  place,  they  traveled  through  a  country 
abounding  in  people  and  game.  "Those  having  bows  were  not 
with  us;  they  dispersed  about  the  ridges  in  pursuit  of  deer, 
and  at  dark  came  bringing  in  five  or  six  for  each  of  us,  besides 
quail  and  other  game." 

West  of  Edwards  County  lies  the  great  limestone  plateau, 
extending  to  a  point  eighty  or  ninety  miles  west  of  the  Pecos 
River.  This  plateau  is  cut  off  by  canyons,  the  main  canyons 
running  north  and  south,  while  the  lateral  canyons  run  a  little 
north-of-west  and  a  little  north-of-east.  To  one  accustomed  to 
that  country,  it  would  be  the  reasonable  expectation  that  deer 
hunters  would  hunt  along  the  ridges  at  the  edge  of  canyons, 
where  deer  would  be  found  lying  in  the  shade  of  cedar  trees, 
in  the  heat  of  the  day. 

Another  important  fact  to  note  is  that  this  plateau  country 
has  a  vast  number  of  old  rock  heaps,  said  to  have  been  used 
by  Indians  for  roasting  sotol  and  mescal.  During  certain 
seasons  of  every  year  this  country  must  have  a  considerable 
Indian  population  living  on  roasted  sotol  and  hunting  the  deer 
and  buffalo. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  23 

Shortly  after,  they  passed  over  "a  great  river  coming  from 
the  north."  There  are  several  reasons  for  concluding  that  this 
was  the  Pecos  River,  at,  or  about,  the  crossing  near  Sheffield, 
near  where  the  Live  Oak  Creek  empties  into  the  Pecos  River. 
At  this  point  the  Pecos  River  is  flowing  almost  directly  from 
the  north,  and  as  the  distance  traveled  by  de  Vaca  agrees 
approximately  with  the  distance  from  the  Pecos  River  at  this 
point  to  the  junction  of  the  Conchos  River  and  Rio  Grande, 
where  it  is  known  he  crossed  into  Mexico,  and  as  he  makes  no 
further  mention  of  crossing  a  river  until  he  reached  the  Rio 
Grande,  it  may  be  safely  concluded  that  this  was  the  point 
where  de  Vaca  crossed  the  Pecos  River  on  the  old  Indian  trail. 
At  the  present  day  the  Pecos  carries  very  little  water,  being 
at  best  a  naturally  formed  irrigation  canal  for  the  numerous 
irrigation  projects  along  its  banks.  And,  while  the  Spaniards 
would  still  call  it  rio,  we  Americans  would  hesitate  to  call  it  a 
river. 

In  1880,  the  Pecos  was  a  very  different  stream  from  what  it 
is  to-day.  It  was  a  stream  of  very  regular  dimensions  for  three 
hundred  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Rio  Grande.  It  was 
generally  from  sixty-five  feet  to  a  hundred  feet  wide,  from 
seven  feet  to  ten  feet  deep,  of  a  rapid  current,  exceedingly 
muddy,  of  a  very  red  cast,  and  fordable  in  very  few  places. 
This  was  what  de  Vaca  saw,  and  to  the  Spaniards  it  was  a 
"great  river,"  which  they  forded,  the  water  coming  up  to  their 
breasts.  The  next  river  the  wanderers  crossed  was  the  Rio 
Grande,  at  a  point  just  below  the  present  town  of  Presidio, 
Texas.  The  distance  assigned  between  the  two  rivers,  eighty 
leagues,  is  too  great,  but  their  route  must  have  been  subject  to 
a  very  considerable  deflection  in  order  to  obtain  water,  which 
is  very  scarce  in  that  country.  Besides,  it  is  very  probable 
that  de  Vaca  overestimated  his  distance  in  his  narrative,  writ- 
ten almost  two  years  later,  in  which  time  many  of  the  details  of 
his  journey  must  necessarily  have  faded  from  his  mind. 

Another  fact  which  would  lend  plausibility  to  this  assump- 
tion is  that  for  eight  years  he  had  no  means  of  verifying  his 
estimates  of  distance,  and  in  this  particular  instance  he  had 


24  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

traveled  over  a  desert  country  where  he  and  his  companions 
had  suffered  greatly,  both  for  food  and  for  water ;  therefore, 
it  would  have  been  but  natural  for  him  to  overestimate  the 
distance  between  the  Pecos  River  and  the  Rio  Grande. 

After  reaching  the  Rio  Grande  and  crossing  to  the  south 
bank,  they  had  traveled  but  a  short  distance  when  they  came 
to  a  settlement  of  fixed  habitations.  This  was  one  of  the 
numerous  settlements  occupied  by  the  Indian  tribes  found  a 
few  years  later  by  Rodriguez  and  Espejo.  As  de  Vaca  pro- 
gressed up  the  river  the  settlements  became  more  numerous, 
until  he  reached  an  Indian  town  where  beans,  pumpkins,  and 
corn  were  cultivated.  Just  before  reaching  this  town  they  had 
crossed  to  the  north  bank  of  the  river,  and  he  must  have  been 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Presidio. 

Irrigation  is  necessary  at  the  present  day,  and  has  been  as 
far  back  as  we  have  any  record  of  farming  in  all  of  West  Texas 
and  New  Mexico.  In  the  neighborhood  of  Presidio,  however, 
corn  has  been  planted  from  time  immemorable  in  temporales — 
that  is,  in  sandy  stretches  near  the  river,  where  it  is  not  irri- 
gated, but  to  bring  it  to  fruitage  depends  upon  the  rainfall 
and  the  overflow  from  the  two  rivers,  the  Rio  Grande  and  the 
Conchos,  whose  junction  is  just  above  Presidio.  That  these 
people  did  not  depend  upon  irrigation  is  evident  from  the  fact 
that  de  Vaca  was  asked  by  them  to  tell  the  sky  to  rain,  that 
they  might  plant  their  corn.  These  Indians  told  de  Vaca  there 
had  been  no  rain  for  two  years  and  that  the  seed  had  been  eaten 
up  by  moles. 

One  statement  in  de  Vaca's  account  has  caused  considerable 
confusion  in  the  minds  of  investigators.  This  is  the  statement 
that  the  people  whom  he  found  on  the  river  were  called 
the  Cow  Nation,  on  account  of  their  living  mainly  off  the  chase 
of  the  buffalo,  and  de  Vaca  says,  "The  cattle  are  slaughtered 
in  their  neighborhood,  and  along  up  the  river  for  over  fifty 
leagues  they  destroy  great  numbers."  From  the  subsequent 
record  of  Antonio  de  Espejo,  some  forty  years  later,  it  would 
appear  that  de  Vaca  landed  among  a  tribe  of  the  Jumano 
Indians,  who,  for  some  reason,  had  become  separated  from  the 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  25 

main  branch  of  the  tribe  living  north  and  east  of  the  Pecos 
River.  There  is  no  question  that  the  Jumanos  were  the  same 
people  de  Vaca  called  the  Cow  Nation.  This  name  they  won 
because  among  all  other  mountain  tribes  they  were  more  given 
to  following  the  buffalo.  In  the  eighteenth  and  nineteenth 
centuries  this  could  be  said  of  the  Southern  Comanches,  and, 
as  will  be  brought  out  later,  the  Southern  Comanches  were 
either  the  direct  descendants  of  the  Jumano  Indians  or,  at 
least,  very  close  kin.  Therefore  it  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that 
de  Vaca  misunderstood  which  river  the  Indians  referred  to 
when  they  said  they  hunted  "along  up  the  river  for  fifty 
leagues."  From  the  Indians'  own  statements,  the  tribes  inhab- 
iting the  upper  Rio  Grande,  from  the  junction  of  the  Conchos 
up  to  what  is  now  New  Mexico,  were  hostile  toward  them.  On 
the  other  hand,. the  natural  route  of  the  Jumanos  would  be 
toward  the  Pecos,  where  the  people  were  more  friendly,  where 
lay  the  great  salt  deposits,  from  which  they  obtained  their  salt 
supply,  and  also  where  the  greatest  number  of  buffalo  grazed. 
They  doubtless  meant  the  Pecos  River  was  the  habitat  of  the 
buffalo  rather  than  the  Rio  Grande. 

This  is  further  substantiated  by  Bandelier  and  other  writers 
who  have  examined  the  records  of  the  early  Spanish  explorers. 
According  to  these  authorities — and  present-day  research  has 
failed  to  refute  their  statements — the  buffalo  never  frequented 
the  Rio  Grande  in  the  Big  Bend  region.  There  are  a  few  excep- 
tions where  the  buffalo  has  been  known  to  cross  the  Pecos 
River,  but  these  exceptions  seem  to  be  mere  accidents.  In  1684, 
Mendoza  recorded  that  he  killed  three  buffalo  bulls  at  Comanche 
Springs,  or  Fort  Stockton.  A  few  years  ago,  Mr.  H.  Huelster, 
who  resides  near  Toyahville,  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Davis 
Mountains,  found  a  buffalo  horn  near  Phantom  Lake,  some 
distance  from  the  water,  on  high,  dry  land,  where  neither 
camper  could  have  dropped  it  nor  flood-water  could  have  car- 
ried it.  Mr.  Huelster  is  familiar  with  the  buffalo,  and  he  said 
the  horn  was  that  of  a  young  animal  rather  than  a  cow's  horn 
or  that  of  an  adult  bull.  He  doubts,  too,  that  Indians  dropped 
it  there,  as  they  would  have  had  no  purpose  in  carrying  the 


26  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

horn,  and  it  was  found  at  a  place  some  distance  from  any 
customary  Indian  trail.  Many  other  like  instances  could  be 
cited  where  possibly  a  few  animals  might  have  wandered  across 
the  Pecos  River,  but  no  instance  has  been  found  where  buffalo 
in  any  considerable  number  frequented  the  Big  Bend,  or  Trans- 
Pecos  region.  A  statement  made  by  de  Vaca  also  bears  this 
out.  He  says  that  the  men  of  the  village  on  the  Rio  Grande 
were  absent,  hunting  buffalo. 

In  this  manner  de  Vaca's  route  across  the  American  conti- 
nent can  be  limited  to  a  comparatively  small  area,  and  knowl- 
edge of  the  old  Indian  trails,  combined  with  a  knowledge  of 
the  laws  of  nature,  which  are  immutable,  enables  the  investi- 
gator to  trace  with  fair  accuracy  a  course,  provided  two  points 
are  established — the  starting  point  and  the  objective  point. 
In  the  case  of  de  Vaca,  we  have  three  points  which  are  well 
established,  the  two  named  above  and  the  point  where  he 
crossed  the  Rio  Grande  into  Mexico.  Even  though  his  manu- 
script is  often  confused  in  regard  to  distances  and  directions, 
still  he  gives  a  fairly  accurate  description  of  plant  life  and  the 
topography  of  the  country. 


fm  «.* 


MR.  AND  MRS.  WILLIAM  RUSSELL 
Pioneers  of  The  Big  Bend 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  27 


CHAPTER  III 

If  a  ranchman  of  the  present  day,  with  his  family,  driving 
through  Paisano  Pass,  in  his  high-powered  automobile,  should 
meet  a  party  of  Spanish  explorers,  monks,  and  Indian  slaves, 
decked  out  in  the  regalia  of  three  hundred  years  ago — if  thus 
the  Twentieth  Century  should  meet  the  Sixteenth  Century, 
which  party  do  you  suppose  would  give  the  road  ? 

It  is  highly  probable  that  the  ranchman  would  hesitate  for 
one  startled  moment,  then  reverse  his  direction  and — to  use  a 
modern  slang  expression — "step  on  the  gas"  for  all  he  was 
worth,  meaning  that  he  would  leave  that  vicinity.  On  reach- 
ing Alpine  the  ranchman  would  report  the  approach  of  a  Mexi- 
can bandit  raiding  party.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  probable 
that  the  Spaniards  would  not  hesitate  upon  sight  of  the  auto- 
mobile, but  would  press  eagerly  forward,  expecting  the  strange 
monster  to  lead  them  to  some  unknown  Eldorado. 

How  much  more  astounded,  then,  must  the  Indians  have 
been  when  the  Spaniards  first  appeared  among  them ;  while  the 
Spaniards,  lured  on  by  tales  of  great  cities  whose  streets  were 
paved  with  gold,  had  their  imagination  fired  to  such  an  extent 
that  they  willingly  endured  almost  unbelievable  hardships  to 
realize  their  dreams.  With  them,  as  co-workers,  came  the 
monks  and  lay  brothers  of  the  Franciscan  and  Jesuit  brother- 
hoods, who,  too,  were  fired  by  tales  of  the  country's  wealth, 
and  dreamed  of  the  spiritual  conquest  of  the  land. 

So,  side  by  side,  monk  and  soldier,  religious  and  secular, 
marched  into  the  land  known  to-day  as  the  Big  Bend  country. 
And  to  show  the  left-handed  way  of  their  coming — charac- 
teristically Spanish — Cabeza  de  Vaca,  the  first  white  man  in 
this  region,  came  from  the  direction  of  the  rising  sun,  while 
Antonio  de  Espejo,  the  second  white  man  to  come,  entered  this 
land  of  romance  from  the  north.  Left-handed?  Yes.  The 


28  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

logical  direction  for  them  to  have  come  was  from  the  south, 
Mexico,  where  the  seeds  of  conquest  and  settlement  sown  by 
Hernandez  Cortez  had  borne  a  rich  harvest. 

In  an  indirect  way  de  Espejo's  journey  had  considerable 
bearing  on  the  country's  development,  particularly  in  the  Big 
Bend  of  the  Rio  Grande.  Coronado  had  made  his  triumphant 
march  into  New  Mexico  by  way  of  Arizona.  In  1561,  the  great 
province  of  Nueva  Viscaya  was  formed,  embracing  the  Sierra 
Madres  and  the  Great  Central  Plateau,  south  of  the  Big  Bend 
of  Texas.  The  Franciscan  fathers,  aided  by  the  soldiery,  had 
pushed  their  way  as  far  north  as  the  headwaters  of  the  Conchos 
River,  the  southern  tributary  of  the  Rio  Grande.  As  a  natural 
result  of  their  success,  their  ambitions  to  extend  their  work 
into  the  fabulously  rich  country  visited  by  Coronado,  needed 
but  small  motivation  to  culminate  in  an  expedition  of  spiritual 
and  economic  conquest. 

This  motivation  came  in  the  shape  of  an  Indian  captured 
near  Santa  Barbara,  who  told  the  monks  of  a  populous  region 
where  the  people  raised  cotton  for  clothing,  and  crops  of  grain 
and  corn.  Aroused  to  zealous  action  by  this  information,  Fray 
Rodriguez  obtained  his  royal  master's  permission  to  enter  and 
Christianize  that  land.  Northward  they  marched  to  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Mexican  Conchos  and  Rio  Grande,  near  where 
now  is  Presidio,  Texas,  thence  into  the  fertile  valleys  above  El 
Paso,  in  New  Mexico. 

But  that  expedition  proved  disastrous.  Fray  Rodriguez, 
Fray  Lopez,  and  Fray  Santa  Maria  decided  to  remain  with 
the  Puaray  Indians,  whose  settlements  embraced  many  well- 
established  pueblos,  while  the  rest  of  the  party,  numbering 
nine  whites,  returned  to  Nueva  Viscaya  to  report  their 
discoveries  in  the  new  country.  Unwisely,  Fray  Rodriguez 
deemed  his  religion  to  be  sufficient  protection  for  himself  and 
his  two  companions  against  the  natural  cupidity  of  the  savages. 
He  kept  with  him  all  the  stock,  including  many  horses  and 
goats,  as  well  as  a  large  supply  of  provisions.  But  before  the 
nine  whites  had  reached  Nueva  Viscaya,  they  received 
word  that  the  Puaray  Indians  had  murdered  Rodriguez  and 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  29 

his  companions  in  order  to  gain  possession  of  their  belongings. 
At  the  same  time,  Chamuscado,  who  was  captain  of  the  return- 
ing expedition,  and  who  was  more  than  sixty  years  old,  fell  ill 
and  died  before  reaching  Santa  Barbara. 

Instead  of  discouraging  further  explorations,  however,  the 
news  of  the  ill-fate  of  Rodriguez  and  his  companions  caused  a 
half  dozen  adventurous  spirits  to  petition  the  King  of  Spain 
for  permission  to  explore  and  conquer  New  Mexico. 

To  Antonio  de  Espejo,  a  wealthy  gentleman  of  Santa  Bar- 
bara, the  privilege  was  granted.  On  November  10,  1582,  the 
expedition  was  begun  at  Valle  de  San  Bartolome.  Espejo's 
party  included  fifteen  soldiers ;  he  had  also  a  number  of  serv- 
ants, a  large  quantity  of  arms,  munitions,  and  provisions.  He 
took  with  him  one  hundred  and  fifteen  horses,  mares,  and 
mules ;  and  from  the  animals  strayed,  lost,  or  stolen  from  this 
herd  and  those  stolen  from  Fray  Rodriguez,  can  be  traced  the 
beginning  of  the  use  of  the  horse  by  the  American  Indian. 

In  his  own  words,  de  Espejo  gives  a  graphic  description  of 
the  people  he  found  along  the  Conchos  River  and  adjacent  to 
the  Rio  Grande.  These  Indians  were  the  forerunners  in  the 
Big  Bend  region  of  the  savage  Mescalero  Apaches  and  South- 
ern Comanches,  who  harassed  the  frontier  many  years  after 
the  Americans  occupied  the  country. 

"After  two  days'  march  of  five  leagues  each,"  writes  de  Es- 
pejo, "we  found  in  some  rancherias  a  number  of  Indians  of  the 
Conchos  nation,  many  of  whom,  to  the  number  of  more  than 
a  thousand,  came  out  to  meet  us  along  the  road  we  were  travel- 
ing. We  found  that  they  lived  on  rabbits,  hares,  and  deer, 
which  they  hunt  and  which  are  abundant ;  and  on  some  crops 
of  maize,  gourds,  Castilian  melons,  and  watermelons,  which 
they  plant  and  cultivate ;  and  on  fish,  and  the  mescales,  which 
are  the  leaves  of  the  lechuguilla,  a  plant  a  half  vara  in  height, 
the  stalks  of  which  have  green  leaves.  They  cook  the  stalk  of 
this  plant  and  make  a  preserve  like  quince  jam.  It  is  very 
sweet  and  they  call  it  mescale. 

"They  go  about  naked  and  have  grass  huts  for  houses. 
They  use  bows  and  arrows  and  have  caciques  whom  they  obey. 


30  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

We  did  not  find  that  they  had  idols,  nor  that  they  offered  any 
sacrifices.  We  assembled  as  many  of  them  as  we  could,  erected 
crosses  for  them  in  their  rancherias,  and  by  interpreters  whom 
we  had  of  their  own  tongue,  the  meaning  of  the  crosses  and  our 
Holy  Catholic  faith  was  explained  to  them. 

"They  were  with  us  for  about  six  days  from  their  ranches, 
which  must  have  been  a  journey  of  twenty-four  leagues  to  the 
north.  All  this  distance  was  settled  by  Indians  of  the  same 
nation,  who  came  out  to  receive  us  in  peace,  one  cacique  report- 
ing our  coming  to  another.  All  of  them  fondled  us  and  our 
horses.  They  were  friendly." 

After  passing  through  a  nation  of  Indians  called  Paza- 
quantes,  who  lived  much  the  same  as  the  Conchos,  de  Espejo 
came  to  the  nation  of  Tobosos.  From  this  tribe  came  the  name 
of  the  grass  so  widely  known  over  the  Southwest.  This  tribe 
and  the  Salineros,  their  kinspeople,  appeared  to  have  been  the 
most  warlike  people  whom  de  Espejo  found,  and  they  belonged 
to  the  Apache  family.  Before  de  Espejo  could  make  friends 
with  them,  the  Tobosos  attacked  the  expedition,  stole  several 
horses,  and  killed  and  wounded  several  more;  but  even- 
tually, by  numerous  presents,  the  whites  made  friends  with 
them. 

Reaching  the  junction  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Conchos 
River,  de  Espejo  found  a  nation  of  Indians  living  in  large,  per- 
manent pueblos.  They  were  the  Jumanos.  They  were  large  peo- 
ple and  lived  in  five  pueblos,  situated  near  what  is  now  Ojinaga, 
Mexico,  opposite  Presidio,  Texas,  and  these  pueblos  contained 
possibly  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  Up  and  down  the  two  rivers 
they  cultivated  their  little  patches,  in  which  they  raised  corn, 
wheat,  and  a  great  variety  of  citrus  fruits. 

De  Espejo  called  the  Rio  Grande  the  Guadalquivir  River, 
after  the  river  of  that  name  in  Spain,  and  he  says  it  was  a  branch 
of  the  Conchos  River,  which  emptied  into  the  North  Sea. 
(In  de  Espejo's  time  the  Atlantic  Ocean  was  called  the  North 
Sea  while  the  Pacific  Ocean  was  known  as  the  South  Sea.) 

These  Indians  had  well-defined  trails  leading  to  and  from 
great  saline  deposits,  where  they  obtained  their  supply  of  salt. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  31 

These  trails  also  led  to  the  buffalo  country  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Pecos  River. 

A  study  of  the  main  commercial  highways  of  to-day  will 
bring  out  the  fact  that  the  trails  of  yesterday  are  the  trails  of 
to-day,  and  will  be  the  trails  of  to-morrow.  The  water  supply 
is  the  most  vital  consideration  in  the  making  of  a  trail,  whether 
it  is  for  the  ox-cart  or  for  the  railroad.  A  knowledge  of  the 
history  of  trail-making  will  show  that  the  railroads  of  to-day 
practically  follow  trails  which  were  laid  out  by  the  Indians, 
possibly  many  thousand  years  ago. 

However,  there  are  exceptions  to  this.  On  account  of 
hauling  facilities,  a  railroad  may  divert  its  lines  from  the 
beaten,  well-watered  trail,  preferring  to  haul  water  rather  than 
spend  vast  sums  to  overcome  topographical  difficulties  in  track 
construction. 

The  proposed  route  of  the  Kansas  City,  Mexico  &  Orient 
Railroad,  with  its  present  terminal  at  Alpine,  followed  the 
northeastern  trail  of  the  Jumano  Indians.  This  trail  leads  to 
the  salt  deposit  in  Crane  County,  which  borders  the  northern 
bank  of  the  Pecos  River.  As  this  railroad  enters  the  Trans- 
Pecos  country  from  the  extreme  northwestern  part  of  Crockett 
County,  below  Horsehead  Crossing,  it  does  not  strike  the  old 
Salt  Trail  until  it  reaches  Fort  Stockton.  At  this  place  the 
famous  Comanche  Springs,  with  a  daily  flow  of  sixty  million 
gallons  of  water,  is  the  source  of  a  great  irrigation  district. 
From  Fort  Stockton  to  Presidio,  Texas,  the  proposed  route  of 
this  railroad  never  once  leaves  the  old  Salt  Trail. 

Owing  to  the  present  settled  condition  of  the  country,  the 
network  of  railroads,  and  that  wonderful  common  carrier,  the 
automobile,  it  is  no  longer  necessary  that  Man  observe  distance 
and  location  of  water  supply;  but,  up  to  the  advent  of  the 
railroad  and  other  modern  conveniences,  the  one  thing  most 
required  of  guides  and  scouts  was  a  knowledge  of  convenient 
water. 

Two  other  salt  deposits,  or  salt  lakes,  might  be  mentioned, 
to  which  the  Indians  resorted  for  their  supply  of  salt,  since 
time  immemorable.  The  first  of  these  is  in  Culberson  County, 


32  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

forty  miles  north  of  J.  M.  Daugherty's  Figure  2  Ranch  head- 
quarters, and  a  few  miles  west  of  Guadalupe  Peak.  The  other 
large  deposit  is  in  Hudspeth  County,  and  was  the  point  of 
dispute  which  brought  on  the  Salt  Lake  War,  in  1877. 

The  Jumano  Indians  were  egregious.  They  covered  a  vast 
area  of  country  similar  in  scope  to  that  covered  by  the  South- 
ern Comanches  two  hundred  years  later.  When  de  Espejo  began 
to  inquire  into  their  form  of  worship,  he  found  that  they 
believed  in  a  God,  whom  they  called  Apalito,  and  whom  they 
asked  for  all  things.  They  gave  de  Espejo  to  understand, 
through  interpreters,  that  there  had  passed  through  the  country, 
three  white  men  and  a  negro,  from  whom  they  obtained  the 
idea  of  their  God.  This  establishes  the  point  where  Cabeza  de 
Vaca  struck  the  Rio  Grande. 

The  Jumanos  wore  gamuzas — a  combination  vest  and  shirt — 
made  of  deer  skin,  well  tanned.  They  also  tanned  hides  that 
were  obtained  from  the  humpbacked  cows,  called  by  the  Indians, 
cibolos,  which  they  hunted  beyond  the  Pecos  River  at  certain 
seasons  of  the  year. 

The  manner  in  which  de  Espejo  was  handed  from  tribe  to 
tribe,  recalls  the  like  treatment  of  Cabeza  de  Vaca.  It  was 
against  Indian  nature  to  love  work,  and  breaking  new  trails  was 
work ;  consequently,  de  Espejo,  in  a  manner  similar  to  that  of 
de  Vaca,  was  guided  over  well-known  ground,  and  handed 
from  tribe  to  tribe,  following  a  beaten  path  up  the  Rio  Grande. 

When  he  reached  the  country  of  the  Puarays,  de  Espejo 
found  corroborative  evidence  of  the  deaths  of  the  three  fathers, 
Rodriguez,  Lopes,  and  Santa  Maria.  Thus  having  accom- 
plished the  object  of  the  expedition  and  his  forces  were  too 
small  to  undertake  a  campaign  of  conquest,  he  decided  to  return 
to  Nueva  Viscaya  by  a  new  route. 

The  Puaray  pueblos  were  in  the  vicinity  of  the  present  town 
of  Santa  Fe.  Leaving  the  Puarays,  July  I,  1583,  de  Espejo  jour- 
neyed eastward  to  the  Pecos  River,  which  he  called  Rio  de  las 
Vacas — the  River  of  the  Cows,  on  account  of  the  number  of 
buffaloes  he  found  in  that  vicinity.  After  crossing  this  river, 
de  Espejo  passed  down  the  eastward  bank  for  one  hundred  and 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  33 

twenty  leagues,  where  he  met  three  Jumano  Indians,  who  had 
gone  from  their  homes  on  the  Conchos  River  to  the  salt  lakes, 
to  gather  salt.  These  Indians  told  him  that  he  was  twelve  days 
journey  from  the  junction  of  the  Conchos  River  and  the  Rio 
Grande. 

Up  to  this  time,  Espejo  had  not  penetrated  the  Big  Bend 
proper.  He  had  traveled  along  the  south,  west,  and  north 
sides,  but  now  he  was  compelled  to  cross  this  region  in  order 
to  strike  the  trail  leading  from  the  Conchos  River  to  the  Valle 
de  San  Bartolome. 

Led  by  the  three  Jumanos,  he  crossed  the  Rio  Pecos,  a  few 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  Comanche  Creek,  at  the  old  Salt 
Lake  Crossing,  followed  a  southerly  direction  until  he  struck 
Comanche  Creek,  which  he  followed  until  he  reached  the  great 
springs. 

These  springs',  known  to-day  as  Comanche  Springs,  have 
been  through  all  the  ages  the  cross-roads  of  the  Southwest. 
With  every  changing  race  of  people  to  enter  the  Big  Bend 
region,  these  springs  have  been  a  mecca.  De  Vaca  must  have 
camped  near  them  in  1535  ;  the  Jumanos,  from  the  Rio  Grande 
and  Conchos  River,  made  it  their  camp  on  the  way  to  and 
from  the  buffalo  country  and  the  salt  lakes;  the  Haupaches, 
or  Apaches,  camped  near  its  source  on  their  way  from  their 
rancherias  in  New  Mexico  to  raid  and  steal  from  the  Jumanos 
and  Tejes  nations,  living  east  of  the  Rio  Pecos ;  in  1839,  Dr.  H. 
Connelly,  with  a  great  train  of  bullion,  made  these  springs  a 
resting-place  between  Chihuahua  City  and  Arkansas,  on  the 
initial  trip  which  opened  up  the  great  Chihuahua  Trail;  ten 
years  later  Lieutenant  Whiting,  of  the  U.  S.  Topographical 
Engineers,  mentioned  these  springs,  on  his  way  from  San 
Antonio  to  El  Paso;  and  to-day  they  mark  the  site  of  Fort 
Stockton,  a  trans-continental  automobile  highway,  and  the  line 
of  the  Kansas  City,  Mexico  &  Orient  Railroad.  Once  a  trail, 
always  a  trail. 

But  Antonio  de  Espejo  was  bent  on  reaching  his  base  of 
supplies  in  Mexico.  He  and  his  followers  had  remained  a 
year  in  the  wilds ;  their  provisions  and  ammunition  were  spent ; 


34  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

and  worn  out  from  constant  vigils  against  the  marauding 
Indians,  they  were  anxious  to  reach  their  countrymen  in  Nueva 
Viscaya.  So,  after  a  brief  rest  at  the  wonderful  springs,  they 
resumed  their  march  southward. 

Passing  Leon  Waterholes,  Leoncita,  and  Kokernot  Springs, 
near  Alpine,  they  continued  on  the  trail  through  Paisano  Pass, 
down  the  Alamito  Creek,  up  the  Rio  Grande,  until  the  junction 
of  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Conchos  River  was  reached.  From 
this  point  they  followed  the  Rio  Conchos  to  their  destination, 
San  Bartolome,  east  of  the  present  City  of  Chihuahua. 

Antonio  de  Espejo's  journey  through  the  heart  of  the  Big 
Bend  region  was  an  accident  and  quickly  passed  from  the 
memory  of  the  savages.  It  remained  for  another  and  later 
people,  the  Americans,  to  conquer  this  land  and  make  it  what 
it  is  to-day.  Credulous  as  the  Spaniards  were  of  every  tale  told 
them  by  the  cunning  natives,  not  one  of  them  sought  to  con- 
quer and  settle  this  land.  All  they  saw  were  rugged  moun- 
tains and  unwatered  plains ;  and,  while  they  were  ever  ready 
to  endure  the  dangers  of  an  unknown  land  that  they  might 
rifle  it  of  its  treasure,  this  unknown  land  they  deemed  without 
treasure. 

For  this  reason  the  tide  of  Spanish  exploration  split  upon 
the  rock  formed  by  the  Big  Bend  country,  and  ebbed  and 
flowed  along  either  side  for  two  centuries.  To  the  east,  the 
Kingdom  of  the  Tejas  was  the  objective  point  of  both  explorer 
and  monk;  to  the  west,  New  Mexico,  with  its  cities  of  many- 
storied  houses,  rich  mines,  and  farming  centers,  was  the  objec- 
tive. For  this  reason,  also,  the  records  of  the  Big  Bend  country 
during  the  Spanish  occupation  of  the  Southwest,  are  meager 
of  detail. 

The  report  of  de  Espejo,  concerning  New  Mexico,  created 
general  interest  in  New  Spain.  Scores  of  adventurers  peti- 
tioned for  the  exclusive  privilege  of  entering  the  new  country 
for  the  purpose  of  conquest  and  exploitation,  but  it  was  not 
until  1598  that  the  King  of  Spain  granted  the  permission.  Don 
Juan  de  Onate,  a  wealthy  resident  of  Guadalajara,  and  hus- 
band of  the  grand-daughter  of  Cortez,  was  appointed  first 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  35 

Governor  of  New  Mexico,  and  immediately  set  out  with  his 
company  for  the  upper  Rio  Grande. 

Reaching  the  headwaters  of  the  Conchos  River,  he  left  the 
trail  hitherto  used  by  the  explorers  and  bore  northward  along 
the  present  line  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railroad.  Onate  was 
the  first  explorer  to  use  wagons  for  transporting  supplies.  His 
explorations  in  New  Mexico  and  the  settlements  which  he 
built  were  of  lasting  importance  to  the  development  of  that 
section  of  the  Spanish  Southwest.  As  he  touches  no  part  of 
the  Big  Bend,  nothing  concerning  him  will  be  considered, 
except  a  description  he  gives  of  his  discovery  of  the  buffalo. 
It  is  from  his  own  pen,  under  date  of  1599,  and  concerns  the 
activities  of  certain  of  his  men : 

"The  corral  constructed,  they  went  next  day  to  a  plain 
where  on  the  previous  afternoon  about  one  hundred  thousand 
cattle  had  been  seen.  Giving  them  the  right  of  way,  the  cattle 
started  very  nicely  toward  the  corral.  But  soon  they  turned 
back  in  a  stampede  toward  the  men,  and  rushing  through  them 
in  a  mass,  it  was  impossible  to  stop  them,  because  they  are 
cattle  terribly  obstinate,  courageous  beyond  exaggeration,  and 
so  cunning  that  if  pursued  they  run,  and  that  if  their  pursuers 
stop  or  slacken  their  speed,  they  stop  and  roll  just  like  mules, 
and  with  this  respite  renew  their  run.  For  several  days  they 
tried  a  thousand  ways  of  shutting  them  in  or  surrounding 
them,  but  in  no  manner  was  it  possible  to  do  so.  This  was  not 
due  to  fear,  for  they  are  remarkably  savage  and  ferocious,  so 
much  so  that  they  killed  three  of  our  horses  and  badly  wounded 
forty,  for  their  horns  are  very  sharp  and  fairly  long,  about  a 
span  and  a  half,  and  bent  upward  together.  They  attack  from 
the  side,  putting  the  head  far  down  so  that  whatever  they  seize 
they  tear  very  badly.  Nevertheless,  some  were  killed,  and 
over  eighty  arrobus  (a  ton)  of  tallow  were  secured,  which 
without  doubt  is  greatly  superior  to  that  of  pork.  The  meat 
of  the  bull  is  superior  to  that  of  our  cows,  and  that  of  the  cow 
equals  the  most  tender  veal  or  mutton. 

"Seeing  therefore  that  the  full-grown  cattle  could  not  be 
brought  alive,  the  sargento  mayor  ordered  that  calves  be  cap- 


36  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

tured,  but  they  became  so  enraged  that  out  of  the  many  which 
were  brought  in,  some  dragged  by  ropes  and  others  upon  the 
horses,  not  only  got  a  league  toward  the  camp,  for  they  all 
died  within  about  an  hour.  Therefore  it  is  believed  that  unless 
taken  shortly  after  birth  and  put  under  the  care  of  our  cows 
or  goats  they  cannot  be  brought  until  the  cattle  become  tamer 
than  they  now  are. 

"In  shape  and  form  they  are  so  marvelous  and  laughable, 
or  frightful,  that  the  more  one  sees  it  the  more  one  desires  to 
see  it,  and  no  one  could  be  so  melancholy  that  if  he  were  to 
see  it  a  hundred  times  a  day  he  could  not  keep  from  laughing 
heartily  as  many  times  or  could  fail  to  marvel  at  the  sight  of 
so  ferocious  an  animal.  Its  horns  are  black,  and  a  third  of  a 
vera  long,  as  already  stated,  and  resembles  those  of  the  bufalo. 
Its  eyes  are  small,  its  face,  snout,  feet  and  hoofs  are  the  same 
form  as  of  our  cows,  with  the  exception  that  both  the  male  and 
female  are  very  much  bearded,  similar  to  he-goats.  They  are 
so  thickly  covered  with  wool  that  it  covers  their  eyes  and  faces, 
and  the  forelock  nearly  envelopes  their  horns.  This  wool, 
which  is  long  and  very  soft,  extends  almost  to  the  middle  of 
the  body,  but  from  there  on  their  hair  is  shorter.  Over  the 
ribs  they  have  so  much  wool  and  the  chine  is  so  high  that  they 
appear  humpbacked,  although  in  reality  and  in  truth  they  are 
not  greatly  so,  for  the  hump  easily  disappears  when  the  hides 
are  stretched. 

"In  general  they  are  larger  than  our  cattle.  Their  tail  is 
like  that  of  a  cow,  being  very  short  and  having  a  few  bristles 
at  the  tip,  and  they  twist  it  upward  when  they  run.  At  the 
knee  they  have  natural  garters  of  very  long  hair.  In  their 
haunches,  which  resemble  those  of  mules,  they  are  hipped  and 
crippled,  and  they  run  therefore  as  already  stated,  in  leaps,  and 
especially  downhill.  They  are  all  of  the  same  dark  color,  some- 
what tawny,  in  parts  their  hair  being  almost  black.  Such  is  their 
appearance,  which  at  sight  is  far  more  ferocious  than  pen  can 
depict." 

For  one  hundred  years  after  Antonio  de  Espejo's  journey 
across  the  Big  Bend  no  further  incursions  were  made,  except 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  37 

a  few  small  parties  of  slavers,  who  operated  among  the  Indian 
tribes  near  the  junction  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  Conchos  River. 

This  was  due  to  the  disturbed  condition  of  the  Indian 
country  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Franciscan  and  Jesuit 
fathers.  In  1644,  the  Concho,  Toboso,  and  Salinero  Indians 
drove  back  the  Spanish  outposts  to  Durango.  Hardly  had  this 
revolt  been  overcome,  when,  in  1648,  the  Tarahumares,  a 
powerful  tribe  dwelling  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Sierra 
Madres,  revolted  and  forced  the  abandonment  of  practically 
all  of  the  Jesuit  and  Franciscan  missions  in  northern  Nueva 
Viscaya,  including  those  established  along  the  Mexican  Con- 
chos and  Rio  Grande.  But  when  peace  was  declared,  after 
four  years  of  bloodshed,  these  brotherhoods  resumed  their 
efforts  with  renewed  energy  to  proselytize  the  savages. 

While  the  Jumano  Indians  heretofore  met  by  the  Spaniards, 
were  those  living  in  their  rancherias,  in  the  Conchos  River 
and  Rio  Grande  district,  their  rancherias  extended  as  far  north 
as  the  Arkansas  River,  and  as  far  east  as  Central  Texas.  The 
Spaniards,  through  traders  who  had  come  up  from  Monclova 
into  the  country  east  of  the  Pecos  River,  possessed  some  knowl- 
edge of  these  far-away  Jumanos. 

In  the  early  part  of  1683,  a  deputation  was  sent  to  El  Paso, 
by  several  Indian  tribes  living  in  the  Big  Bend  and  east  of  the 
Pecos,  among  whom  were  the  Jumanos  and  Tejas  representa- 
tives. The  object  of  this  commission  was  to  encourage  more 
traders  to  come  into  the  Indian  country,  and  the  return  of  the 
fathers  to  teach  the  Indians  Christianity.  The  deputation  was 
headed  by  a  Christianized  Jumano  Indian  of  unusual  intelli- 
gence, Don  Juan  Sabeata.  Governor  Cruzate  received  the  depu- 
tation favorably,  but  the  Franciscan  fathers,  who  had  but 
recently  suffered  from  Indian  treachery,  refused  to  go  unless 
they  had  stronger  assurance  of  the  Indians'  sincerity. 

Immediately,  Sabeata  dispatched  Indian  runners  to  the 
various  villages  along  the  Conchos  River  and  Rio  Grande,  as 
well  as  to  the  rancherias  east  of  the  Pecos,  with  instructions 
to  the  natives  to  build  churches  and  houses  for  the  use  of  the 
padres.  In  an  incredibly  short  time,  these  Indians  returned 


38  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

with  the  news  that  Sabeata's  instructions  had  been  carried  out. 
Upon  this  assurance  the  Franciscans  agreed  to  take  up  work 
among  those  Indians. 

In  the  meantime,  Governor  Cruzate  prepared  an  expedi- 
tion, which  he  put  in  charge  of  Captain  Juan  Dominguez  de 
Mendoza,  who,  thirty  years  previously,  had  been  among  the 
Jumanos,  east  of  the  Pecos.  This  expedition  was  clearly  a 
commercial  enterprise.  The  Jumanos  had  asked  for  traders 
and  missionaries,  and  in  this  way  the  Spaniards  expected  to 
profit  both  in  commerce  and  in  winning  religious  converts. 

Don  Juan  de  Sabeata,  in  order  to  impress  more  favorably 
the  Franciscans,  on  first  reaching  El  Paso,  had  told  them  a 
tale  of  the  marvelous  appearance  of  a  cross  in  the  sky  near 
La  Junta — the  junction  of  the  Conchos  River  and  Rio  Grande. 
The  place  where  the  apparition  was  said  to  occur  was  later 
named  by  the  Spaniards,  La  Navidad  en  los  Cruces.  Sabeata 
later  confessed  that  the  story  was  a  pure  fabrication,  intended 
to  stir  the  Spaniards  to  action.  His  ruse  succeeded  so  well, 
however,  that  in  early  December,  1683,  Captain  Mendoza  and 
his  expedition,  accompanied  by  Father  Zavelata  and  Father 
Lopez,  began  their  journey  down  the  Rio  Grande,  to  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Conchos  River. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  39 


CHAPTER  IV 

Mendoza's  expedition  is  the  first  expedition  into  the  Big 
Bend  of  which  we  have  a  complete  record.  The  worthy  Cap- 
tain, in  his  diary,  gives  a  daily  accounting  for  his  movements. 
On  reaching  La  Junta,  a  term  used  to  cover  some  half  dozen 
Indian  pueblos,  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  junction  of  the 
Conchos  River  and  Rio  Grande,  Mendoza  left  Fathers  Zava- 
lata  and  Lopez.  He  then  proceeded  down  the  Rio  Grande  to 
the  mouth  of  the  arroyo  flowing  from  the  north,  which  we 
know  to-day  as  Alamito  Creek.  It  is  easy  to  determine  his 
camping  places  from  his  description  of  the  country.  Every 
landmark  that  he  mentioned  in  his  diary  has  been  located 
to-day,  with  the  exception  of  a  spring  of  hot  water,  the  origin 
of  which  was  in  a  hill  near  Alamito  Creek,  about  forty-five 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  creek.  In  the  great  gap  known 
to-day  as  Paisano  Pass,  he  found  a  reservoir  of  water,  sufficient 
to  water  any  number  of  horses.  Traveling  through  the  Pass, 
he  followed  the  old  Salt  Lake  trail  to  Comanche  Springs.  Here 
he  mentions  killing  three  buffalo  bulls — one  of  the  few  times 
we  hear  of  buffalo  in  the  Big  Bend. 

Eventually,  Mendoza  reached  Horsehead  Crossing.  Here 
he  struck  the  rancherias  of  the  Jediondos,  who  built  him  jacales 
of  tule,  the  reed  grass  so  common  along  our  creeks  and  water- 
holes.  He  speaks  also  of  this  crossing  as  being  on  the  trail 
which  leads  to  the  Salt  Lake,  and  he  calls  the  Rio  Pecos  the 
Rio  Salado,  or  Salt  River. 

In  time,  he  reached  the  villages  of  the  Jumanos,  and  estab- 
lished a  mission,  the  ruins  of  which  may  to-day  be  seen  near 
San  Saba,  Texas. 

Mendoza  speaks  of  the  Haupaches,  who  were  the  inveterate 
enemies  of  the  Jumanos,  and  who  at  this  time  were  harassing 
the  Jumanos  in  their  rancherias  along  the  San  Saba  River. 

The  significance  of  Mendoza's  journey  among  the  Jumanos 


40  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

was  that  the  Spaniards  came  more  frequently  into  the  Big 
Bend,  both  to  trade  and  win  religious  converts. 

After  leaving  the  Jumanos,  he  crossed  the  country  known 
as  the  Kingdom  of  the  Tejas;  and  upon  his  return  to  New 
Spain,  he  carried  the  news  of  the  French  invasion  in  territory 
which  the  Spaniards  considered  solely  their  own. 

A  brief  survey  of  the  map  of  Texas  will  show  the  observer 
that  the  Big  Bend,  or  Trans-Pecos,  region  is  composed  of  nine 
counties — Terrell,  Pecos,  and  Reeves,  which  border  the  Pecos 
River  on  the  west ;  while  Brewster,  Presidio,  Jeff  Davis,  Cul- 
berson,  Hudspeth,  and  El  Paso  Counties  border  the  Rio  Grande. 

Some  time  between  the  Mendoza  expedition,  1683,  and  the 
year  1724,  some  slight  changes  took  place  in  the  names  of  Indian 
tribes  indigenous  to  the  Big  Bend.  Instead  of  speaking  of 
the  Jumanos,  the  Tobosos,  the  Salineros,,  and  other  kindred 
tribes,  the  records  began  to  carry  the  names  Comanche  and 
Apache.  Just  when  this  change  took  place,  and  why,  is  not 
known.  The  territory  occupied  by  the  Comanches  was  iden- 
tical with  that  occupied  by  the  Jumanos ;  and  as  no  extended 
Indian  war  is  recorded  which  could  have  caused  the  Jumanos 
to  lose  their  territory,  it  can  be  accepted  as  a  fact  that  the 
Comanches  are  the  descendants  of  the  Jumano  Indians. 

Father  Massenet,  who  made  a  journey  in  the  Tejas  country, 
reiterated  the  statements  made  by  Mendoza  concerning  the 
encroachment  of  the  French  upon  Spanish  territory ;  and  the 
fears  of  the  Spaniards  were  regarded  as  well  founded.  •  The 
French  manner  of  approach  was  in  strong  contrast  to  that  of 
the  Spaniard.  The  French  kept  their  promises  when  once 
made;  the  Spaniards  did  not.  The  French  gained  their  ends 
by  diplomacy ;  the  Spaniards  gained  theirs  by  force ;  and  it  is 
but  natural  that  of  the  two  methods  the  Indians  should  prefer 
the  Frenchman's  manner  of  approach. 

In  1724,  the  first  important  French  post  was  established 
near  the  country  inhabited  by  the  Comanches.  This  was  Fort 
D'Orleans,  established  on  the  present  site  of  St.  Louis,  Mis- 
souri. In  an  extended  visit  among  the  Comanches  on  the 
Kansas  River,  M.  de  Bourgmont  sought  to  establish  trade 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  41 

relationship  with  all  the  tribes,  ranging  from  Southwest  Texas 
to  Northern  Kansas.  Of  these  tribes  the  Comanches  were  the 
most  powerful. 

While  the  Spaniards  spoke  of  the  Comanches,  the  French 
spoke  of  the  Paducas.  The  word  Paduca  came  to  the  French 
through  their  intercourse  with  the  Sioux  Indians,  whose  name 
for  the  Comanche  was  Padouca.  The  Comanche  name  for 
themselves  was  Num — "people." 

M.  de  Bourgmont's  description  of  the  Comanches  and  their 
customs  was  the  first  authentic  record  of  this  powerful  and 
warlike  tribe.  Those  of  the  Comanches  who  lived  far  from 
the  Spaniards  raised  no  grain,  but  lived  solely  by  the  chase. 
They  had  permanent  dwellings  and  large  villages,  composed 
of  cabins,  each  of  which  were  occupied  by  several  families. 
From  these  villages  they  sent  out  hunters,  sometimes  to  the 
number  of  a  thousand  in  a  band. 

On  account  of  their  long  acquaintanceship  with  the  Span- 
iards, who  had  introduced  the  horse  into  America,  these  Indians 
took  more  readily  to  the  use  of  these  animals  than  any  of  the 
kindred  tribes.  Justly  they  have  been  called  "The  Horsemen 
of  the  Plains." 

The  hunters  were  armed  with  bows  and  arrows.  They 
traveled  three  or  four  days'  journey  from  the  villages,  where 
they  found  herds  of  buffalo.  The  manner  of  carrying  their 
belongings  on  these  hunting  trips  was  to  fasten  the  ends  of 
two  poles,  one  on  either  side  of  a  horse,  with  the  rear  ends 
dragging  the  ground.  On  these  poles  were  placed  the  packs, 
and  upon  these  rode  the  children.  A  man  on  horseback  con- 
ducted this  party,  and  the  hunters,  women,  and  young  people 
marched  freely  and  lightly  along  the  trail.  When  they  arrived 
at  the  place  of  the  hunt,  they  camped  near  a  stream  where  both 
water  and  wood  were  obtainable  for  cooking. 

Next  morning,  each  hunter  mounted  a  horse  and  rode  to 
the  nearest  herd,  having  the  wind  to  its  back,  the  purpose  of 
the  Indian  being  to  allow  the  buffalo  to  discover  him  through 
their  delicate  sense  of  smell,  and  start  running  from  him.  When 
this  was  accomplished,  the  hunter  followed  them  closely  at  a 


42  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

gallop.  Upon  reaching  the  side  of  the  animal  he  had  chosen, 
the  hunter  leaped  to  the  ground  and,  with  his  arrows,  shot  the 
buffalo  behind  the  shoulder.  Ordinarily,  the  cows  were  chosen 
for  beef.  After  the  chase  was  over,  the  Indians,  including  the 
women  and  children,  joined  in  to  skin  and  dismember  the 
carcasses.  They  boiled  what  meat  was  necessary  for  their 
immediate  wants,  and,  while  the  hunters  returned  to  the  chase, 
the  squaws  smoked  the  remainder. 

This  nation  raised  neither  corn,  melons,  nor  tobacco,  but 
the  Spaniards  furnished  them  these  provisions  in  return  for 
deer  and  buffalo  skins.  The  villages  nearest  the  Spaniards  of 
New  Mexico  had  knives  and  hatchets  made  of  steel,  but  those 
farthest  from  the  Spaniards  had  implements  made  only  of  flint. 

The  Comanche  nation  was  very  populous,  and  extended 
from  the  Kansas  River  on  the  north  to  the  Rio  Grande  on 
the  south.  The  particular  village  in  which  M.  de  Bourgmont 
visited  the  head  chiefs  was  composed  of  140  cabins,  where 
lived  800  warriors,  1,500  women,  and  2,000  children.  When 
these  Indians  lacked  horses  on  which  to  carry  their  baggage, 
they  made  use  of  large  dogs,  which  they  raised  and  trained 
especially  for  this  purpose. 

The  Paducas,  or  Comanches,  were  almost  entirely  desti- 
tute of  European  articles  of  merchandise,  for  in  1724,  natu- 
rally, there  were  no  manufactories  in  America.  The  men  were 
covered  with  breeches  of  old  hides,  the  lower  part  of  which 
were  bell-shaped,  a  fashion  taken  from  the  Spaniards.  Unlike 
the  civilized  woman,  who  has  a  variety  of  material  from  which 
to  make  attractive  clothing,  the  Indian  woman  wore  a  simple 
garment  of  deer  skin,  fastened  about  the  belt  with  a  thong. 
Before  the  arrival  of  M.  de  Bourgmont,  these  Indians  knew 
nothing  of  firearms,  for  the  Spaniards  were  too  crafty  to  give 
such  an  advantage  to  a  potential  foe.  When  they  went  to  war, 
the  Comanches  rode  horseback,  and  they  covered  their  horses 
with  thick  hides  to  protect  them  from  arrows. 

On  the  afternoon  of  October  20,  1724,  M.  de  Bourgmont 
made  a  treaty  with  the  Comanches  which  had  a  most  impor- 
tant effect  on  the  future  destiny  of  the  Big  Bend  country. 


MR.  AND  MRS.  FRANCIS  ROONEY 
The  pioneer  builders  of  Fort  Stockton 


DEATH  OF  BAJO-SOL 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  43 

This  pact  remained  unbroken  up  to  the  day  the  French  with- 
drew from  the  American  continent.  M.  de  Bourgmont  prom- 
ised guns  and  ammunition  to  the  new  allies,  in  trade  for  their 
skins,  and  he  paved  the  way  for  an  aggressive  campaign  against 
the  Spaniards. 

The  attitude  the  Indian  maintained  towards  both  the  French 
and  the  Spaniards  was  made  quite  clear  by  the  head  chief  of 
the  Comanches  in  his  speech,  in  response  to  the  speech  of 
M.  de  Bourgmont. 

Before  beginning  his  speech,  the  great  chief  said  to  the 
interpreter  that  he  would  willingly  give  two  fingers  from  his 
hand  to  be  able  to  make  himself  understood  by  the  French  chief. 

"My  father,  my  heart  is  crushed,  as  if  it  were  between  two 
rocks,"  he  said.  "How  can  I  speak  so  you  may  understand  me  ? 
Can  I  speak  as  my  heart  wishes  ?  It  would  be  better  that  my 
heart  had  a  mouth  which  could  make  itself  understood.  For 
a  long  time  bur  hearts  trembled  like  the  leaves  stirred  by  the 
wind  at  the  last  cry  of  the  night  birds ;  all  our  warriors  were 
on  foot  and  could  not  sleep  without  arms  in  hand.  Even  the 
young  men  hid  away  from  discovery  in  the  day.  Hardly  had 
ceased  falling  the  tears  for  a  warrior  slain,  when  they  began 
to  fall  for  another;  our  women  hardly  dared  to  go  hunt  for 
wood  to  cook  something  for  us  to  eat,  and  our  children,  who 
cried  from  hunger  day  and  night;  we  hardly  dared  to  go  to 
the  chase,  since  the  sun  was  red,  the  time  was  dark,  the  roads 
were  covered  with  briars  and  thorns,  the  muddy  water  hid 
from  us  the  fish,  the  game  fled  far  from  our  villages,  and  we 
had  lean  bellies  and  hollow  jaws.  The  birds  which  perched 
above  us  seemed  from  their  mournful  singing  to  sing  over  us 
as  they  sing  over  the  dead. 

"But  to-day,  my  father,  you  bring  us  the  beautiful  days. 
How  serene  is  the  sky,  how  bright  the  sun !  The  roads  are 
cleared,  the  water  is  no  longer  muddy,  the  game  comes  back. 
Our  women  begin  to  laugh,  to  dance,  and  to  prepare  food  at 
their  ease ;  our  children  begin  to  run  and  leap  like  the  fawns 
of  the  deer;  and  living  in  peace  with  those  who  have  been 
our  enemies,  we  will  march  without  fear  on  the  same  road, 


44  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

the  same  sun  will  light  the  way  for  us,  we  will  feast  together 
as  brothers,  and,  although  our  nations  are  far  apart,  we  will 
be  as  if  we  lived  together,  each  of  us  carrying  the  other  in  his 
heart. 

"Ah !  What  a  happy  day  which  has  brought  you  among  us, 
my  father.  Much  will  our  descendants  remember  you,  when 
they  will  call  up  thy  name  and  the  bounty  of  thy  sovereign, 
who  sent  you  here  to  bring  us  peace  and  those  beautiful  mer- 
chandises. Can  we  ever  forget  the  bounty  of  the  French  heart, 
who  gave  us  everything  without  price  ?  All  that  has  been  told 
me  of  the  French  is  nothing  compared  to  what  I  see.  I  have 
heard  good  reports  of  the  French  bravery,  but  you  have  proved 
even  more  in  giving  us  frightful  arms,  of  which  the  noise  alone 
makes  us  to  tremble. 

"The  Spaniards  on  the  contrary  trade  us  horses  of  which 
they  have  so  many  that  they  do  not  know  what  to  do  with  them ; 
on  the  other  hand,  they  will  only  trade  us  some  poor  hatchets 
of  soft  iron,  and  some  little  knives,  of  which  often  they  break 
the  point  for  fear  that  we  may  use  it  some  day  against  them, 
and  they  only  give  us  something  which  they  trade  to  us  very 
dear.  How  different  are  the  French  from  the  Spaniards,  of 
whom  I  know  nothing  more  from  now  than  this  earth" — here 
the  chief  stopped  and  picked  up  a  handful  of  dirt,  which  he 
threw  in  the  direction  of  the  Spanish  Southwest — "while  I 
regard  the  French  as  the  sun !" — pointing  to  it  with  his  other 
hand. 

The  descendants  of  this  old  chief  made  good  his  word. 
From  this  year,  1724,  until  the  Spanish  withdrew  from  the 
Southwest,  a  century  later,  the  Comanches  gave  them  and  their 
proselytized  Indian  adherents  no  peace. 

While  on  their  East  the  Spaniards  had  proper  cause  to  be 
jealous  of  the  French,  from  the  Big  Bend  of  Texas  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  they  remained  unmolested.  By  the  year  1760, 
Durango,  Southern  Chihuahua,  Sinaloa,  and  Sonora  were  held 
by  the  Spaniards,  and  with  these  points  as  their  bases  of  opera- 
tion they  extended  a  network  of  presidios,  or  army  posts,  far 
into  the  Indian  country  to  the  north. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  45 

Since  the  first  Spaniards  had  entered  the  Big  Bend  of  Texas, 
they  had  confined  their  operations  to  the  great  waterways — the 
Gonchos  River  and  the  Rio  Grande.  In  the  territory  extending 
from  Paso  del  Norte  to  La  Junta,  there  were  approximately 
one  hundred  thousand  Indians,  many  of  whom  were  farmers 
and  stock  raisers.  The  Spaniards  had  brought  in  oxen  and 
the  domestic  cow,  which,  like  the  horse  and  mule,  multiplied 
rapidly  and  gradually  became  very  common  among  the  Indians. 
Eventually,  the  Viceroy  of  New  Spain  found  it  expedient  to 
throw  a  line  of  presidios  along  the  banks  of  these  rivers.  The 
presidio  at  El  Paso  had  been  moved  by  Governor  Cruzate, 
from  twenty  miles  below  the  pass,  to  a  point  opposite  the  old 
Hart  mill,  above  the  present  Mexican  town  of  Juarez.  In  1760, 
the  presidio  of  Belen  was  founded  and  garrisoned  by  fifty  men. 
This  presidio  occupied  the  present  site  of  Ojinaga,  Mexico. 

In  1773,  the  presidio  system  was  reorganized,  and  six  pre- 
sidios erected,  which  extended  along  the  Rio  Grande  from 
Cerro  Gordo,  known  to-day  as  San  Carlos,  to  Carrizal,  Mexico. 
In  this  year,  the  presidio  at  Huajuquilla  was  moved  to  Valle  de 
San  Elceario,  known  to-day  as  San  Elizario,  three  miles  south 
of  Clint,  Texas.  About  midway  between  San  Carlos  and  San 
Elceario,  on  the  Rio  Grande,  was  located  the  Presidio  de 
Pilares.  The  aim  of  the  Government  was  to  have  five  "flying 
companies,"  which  could  be  quickly  switched  from  one  presidio 
to  another,  as  the  exigencies  of  the  situation  demanded. 

The  presidio  San  Vicente,  the  ruins  of  which  to-day  may  be 
seen  on  the  Mexican  side  of  the  Rio  Grande  between  Boquillas 
a>nd  Glenn  Springs,  was  founded  in  1780. 

There  was  no  one  determinate  thing  which  brought  about 
the  end  of  the  presidios  and  the  missions.  It  had  been  the  policy 
of  the  Spanish  crown  to  furnish  protection  to  the  Franciscan 
and  Jesuit  brotherhoods  in  their  work.  In  return  for  this 
protection,  from  mine  and  field  the  royal  treasury  was  amply 
rewarded  for  its  concessions  to  these  brotherhoods. 

In  1794,  the  strength  of  the  Spanish  padres  began  to  wane. 
The  dates  of  their  withdrawal  from  the  Rio  Grande  and  Con- 
chos  River  territory  varied.  In  1795,  the  presidio  of  Guadalupe 


46  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

was  suppressed,  and  the  garrisons  of  the  various  other  pre- 
sidios began  to  dwindle  away.  The  changes  incident  to  the 
Hidalgo  revolution,  in  1810,  in  Mexico,  heralded  and  brought 
about  the  end  of  the  presidio  system  on  the  Rio  Grande.  After 
Hidalgo's  defeat,  in  1811,  the  presidios  were  never  restored. 
Up  to  that  time  the  presidios  had  flourished.  The  soldiers, 
under  the  commanding  officers  at  Presidio  del  Norte,  San  Carlos, 
Pilares,  and  San  Vicente,  lived  with  their  families,  in  their  own 
homes,  tending  their  small  farms  or  herding  their  goats.  Some- 
times, at  irregular  intervals,  they  were  called  upon  to  drill. 
At  other  times,  at  even  less  regular  intervals,  they  were  called 
upon  to  fight  Indians.  Acting,  in  a  way,  as  a  sort  of  militia, 
these  few  remnants  of  the  former  glory  of  Spanish  soldiery 
garrisoned  the  presidios. 

Coincident  with  the  revolution  of  Hidalgo,  the  religious 
brotherhoods  fell  into  disrepute  with  the  Spanish  government. 
Less  attention  was  paid  to  the  presidios,  and  the  missions  were 
abandoned;  the  practice  of  forwarding  the  Catholic  religion 
by  keeping  soldiers  with  the  padres,  died  out.  The  garrisons 
were  not  renewed  with  new  blood,  and  gradually  the  men  died 
or  were  killed  by  Indians,  and  others  moved  away  or  were 
recalled. 

Of  these  old  presidios,  that  of  Del  Norte,  which  to-day  is 
Ojinaga,  was  the  last  to  disappear  with  the  dust  of  time.  Prob- 
ably this  presidio  was  abandoned  and  reoccupied  several  times. 
In  1820,  the  mother  of  John  Burgess  was  in  Presidio  del  Norte, 
when  three  hundred  Apaches  entered  the  village  and  killed 
many  inhabitants.  This  occurred  at  an  interval  when  the  sol- 
diers had  been  withdrawn  to  Chihuahua  City.  On  record  in 
the  Land  Office  in  Ojinaga  were  two  land  titles,  under  date  of 
1828  and  1835,  respectively,  which  bear  the  signature  of  El 
Capitan  Jose  I.  Benquillo.  It  is  highly  probable  that  this  officer 
was  the  last  commander  of  the  decayed  presidio  system  along 
the  Rio  Grande. 

Valle  de  Piedra,  commonly  called  Valpiedra,  is  still  a  small 
settlement  situated  between  Ojinaga  and  Pilares.  Originally 
it  was  a  penal  colony.  It  was  founded  on  the  site  of  irrigated 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  47 

farms,  and  convicts  from  both  Presidio  del  Norte  and  Chi- 
huahua were  sent  there  to  work.  Concessions  were  given  by 
the  government  to  certain  prominent  men,  sometimes  to  com- 
manders of  the  garrison  itself,  and  it  might  be  noted  that  in 
this  latter  case  very  often  the  commanders  would  increase  their 
labor  by  their  own  judicial  decisions,  when  necessary. 

There  is  no  definite  date  available  as  to  the  time  of  the 
establishment  of  Valle  de  Piedra,  but  it  was  the  last  one  of 
the  old  colonies  to  be  in  operation.  Cotton  was  the  usual  crop, 
and  during  the  days  of  the  Civil  War,  the  cotton  was  shipped 
to  northern  markets.  At  the  close  of  the  Civil  War,  when 
the  South  resumed  cotton  planting,  Valle  de  Piedra  lost  its 
importance. 

One  other  old  ruin  known  as  Old  Fortin,  which  was  settled 
in  1848  by  Ben  Leaton,  and  which  to-day  is  owned  by  John 
Burgess,  was  at  one  time  one  of  the  seven  presidios  located  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  junction  of  the  Conchos  River  and  the  Rio 
Grande. 

As  early  as  1800,  trappers  and  hunters  came  to  Presidio  del 
Norte,  to  trap  beaver  on  the  Conchos  River,  but  the  Mexican 
authorities  turned  them  back.  From  1820  to  1850,  the  St.  Louis 
Fur  Company  and  Bent  Fur  Trading  Company  had  a  few  trap- 
pers and  hunters  in  the  country,  but  very  little  can  be  told  about 
their  activities. 

The  Santa  Fe  Trail  had  been  in  operation  since  1822,  and 
ran  south  from  Santa  Fe,  New  Mexico,  through  Paso  del  Norte, 
to  Chihuahua  City.  With  a  view  of  encouraging  commercial 
development  and  finding  a  shorter  route  than  the  Santa  Fe 
Trail  from  Chihuahua  City  to  the  Red  River  frontier  of 
Arkansas,  the  Mexican  Government  agreed  to  reduce  the  im- 
port duties  to  a  very  low  rate  in  favor  of  a  pioneer  enterprise, 
and  to  furnish  an  escort  of  dragoons  for  the  protection  of  the 
traders.  An  American  merchant,  Dr.  H.  Connelly,  and  a  num- 
ber of  wealthy  Mexicans  undertook  the  adventurous  trip.  The 
caravan  set  out  from  Chihuahua  City,  April  3,  1839.  ft  con- 
sisted of  100  men,  including  50  dragoons.  There  were  seven 
wagons  in  all,  700  mules,  and  from  $200,000  to  $300,000  in 


48  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

specie  and  bullion.  Following  the  Conchos  River,  as  did  the 
old  Spanish  explorers,  they  crossed  the  Rio  Grande  at  Presidio 
del  Norte.  They  kept  the  old  Salt  Lake  Trail,  to  Horsehead 
Crossing,  and  met  with  no  greater  accident  between  the  Cross- 
ing and  Fort  Townsend  than  to  confuse  the  Red  River  with 
the  Brazos. 

It  was  the  intention  of  the  adventurers  to  return  to  Chi- 
huahua the  ensuing  fall,  but,  suffering  much  delay,  they  did 
not  get  started  until  the  following  spring.  On  the  return  trip, 
the  caravan  consisted  of  sixty  or  seventy  wagons,  laden  with 
merchandise,  and  about  225  men,  including  their  escort,  the 
Mexican  dragoons.  After  being  lost,  by  missing  their  old  trail 
in  the  "Cross  Timbers,"  they  finally  reached  the  Pecos  River, 
where,  in  contrast  with  its  small  flow  of  water  to-day,  they  were 
compelled  to  use  water-kegs  to  float  their  wagons  across.  At 
the  Pecos,  they  met  a  large  body  of  Comanches,  but  their 
number  was  sufficient  to  make  the  Indians  appear  friendly. 

Upon  reaching  Presidio  del  Norte,  or  Ojinaga,  they  learned 
that  General  Irogoyen,  with  whom  they  had  celebrated  the 
contract  for  diminution  of  their  duty,  had  died  in  their  absence. 
The  new  commander  insisted  on  the  payment  of  the  full  duty, 
which  would  have  caused  financial  disaster  to  the  expedition. 
After  a  delay  of  forty-five  days  at  Presidio,  they  made  a  com- 
promise ;  and  on  the  27th  day  of  August,  1840,  safely  reached 
Chihuahua  City. 

The  delays  and  accumulated  expenses  of  the  expedition 
caused  such  disastrous  results  to  those  interested  that  it  was 
nine  years  before  the  Chihuahua  Trail  became  a  generally  used 
highway. 

George  F.  Ruxton,  a  noted  English  traveler,  throws  con- 
siderable light  on  Indian  conditions  in,  and  adjoining,  the  Big 
Bend  of  the  Rio  Grande,  in  the  years  1845-46,  gained  in  travel- 
ing through  the  danger  zone  of  Northern  Mexico. 

In  Ruxton's  time,  the  city  of  Durango  was  considered  the 
Ultima  Thule  of  the  civilized  portion  of  Mexico.  Beyond  it, 
to  the  north  and  northwest,  stretched  away  the  vast  uncultivated 
and  unpeopled  plains  of  Chihuahua,  the  Bolson  de  Mapimi,  and 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  49 

the  arid  deserts  of  the  Gila.  In  these  wild  regions,  the  hostile 
tribes  of  Indians  had  their  dwelling-places,  from  which  they 
continually  descended  upon  the  border  settlements  and  hacien- 
das, drove  off  the  herds  of  horses  and  mules,  and  barbarously 
killed  the  unarmed  peasantry.  This  warfare — if  warfare  it 
could  be  called,  where  the  aggression  and  bloodshed  were  on 
one  side  only,  and  passive  endurance  on  the  other — had  existed 
from  time  immemorial;  and  the  wonder  is,  that  the  country 
had  not  long  before  been  abandoned  by  the  persecuted  inhabit- 
ants, who  at  all  seasons  were  subjected  to  their  attacks. 

The  Apaches,  whose  country  bordered  upon  the  Department 
of  Durango,  were  untiring  and  incessant  in  their  hostility 
against  the  whites;  and,  being  near  neighbors,  were  enabled 
to  act  with  great  rapidity  and  unawares  against  the  haciendas 
and  ranches  on  the  frontier.  They  were  a  treacherous  and 
cowardly  race  of  Indians,  and  seldom  attacked  even  the  Mexi- 
cans, save  by  treachery  and  ambuscade.  When  they  had  carried 
off  a  number  of  horses  and  mules,  sufficient  for  their  present 
wants,  they  sent  a  deputation  to  the  governors  of  Durango  and 
Chihuahua,  to  express  their  anxiety  for  peace.  This  was 
invariably  granted  them,  and,  when  en  pazf  they  resorted  to  the 
frontier  villages,  and  even  the  capital  of  the  Department,  for 
the  purpose  of  trade  and  amusement.  The  animals  they  had 
stolen  in  Durango  and  Chihuahua,  they  found  a  ready  market 
for  in  New  Mexico  and  Sonora;  and  this  traffic  was  most 
unblushingly  carried  on,  and  countenanced  by  the  authorities 
of  the  respective  states. 

But  the  most  formidable  enemy,  and  most  feared  and 
dreaded  by  the  inhabitants  of  Durango  and  Chihuahua,  were 
the  warlike  Comanches,  who  descended  from  their  distant 
prairie  country  beyond  the  Pecos  River,  at  certain  seasons  of 
the  year.  Annually,  these  Indians  undertook  regularly  organ- 
ized expeditions  into  these  states,  and  frequently  into  the  inte- 
rior, as  far  as  the  vicinity  of  Sombrerete,  Durango,  for  the 
purpose  of  procuring  animals  and  slaves,  carrying  off  the  young 
boys  and  girls,  and  massacring  the  adults  in  the  most  wholesale 
and  barbarous  manner. 


50  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

So  regular  were  these  expeditions,  that  in  the  Comanche 
calendar  the  month  of  September  was  known  as  the  Mexican 
moon,  as  the  other  months  were  designated  the  buffalo  moon, 
the  young  bear  moon,  the  corn  moon,  etc.  They  generally 
invaded  the  country  in  three  different  divisions,  with  two  to 
five  hundred  warriors  in  each.  One,  the  most  southern,  passed 
the  Rio  Grande  between  the  old  presidio  of  San  Juan  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Pecos,  and  harried  the  fertile  plains  and  wealthy 
haciendas  of  El  Valle  de  San  Bartolome,  the  Rio  Florido,  San 
Jose  del  Parral,  and  the  Rio  Nasas.  Every  year  their  incur- 
sions extended  farther,  into  the  interior,  as  the  frontier  hacien- 
das became  depopulated  by  their  ravages,  and  the  villages 
deserted  and  laid  waste.  For  days  together,  in  Bolson  de 
Mapimi,  Ruxton  says  that  he  traversed  a  country  deserted  on 
this  account,  and  passed  through  ruined  villages,  untrodden  for 
years  by  the  foot  of  man. 

The  central  division  entered  between  the  Presidio  del  Norte 
and  Monclova,  where  they  joined  the  party  coming  in  from 
the  North,  and  passed  the  mountains  of  Mapimi  and  traversed 
a  desert  country  destitute  of  water,  where  they  suffered  the 
greatest  privations,  ravaged  the  valleys  of  Mapimi,  Guajo- 
quilla,  and  Chihuahua,  and  even  the  haciendas  at  the  foot  of  the 
Sierra  Madre. 

It  appears  incredible  that  no  steps  were  taken  to  protect  the 
country  from  those  invasions,  which  did  not  take  the  inhabit- 
ants unawares,  but  at  certain  and  regular  seasons  and  from 
known  points.  Troops  were  employed  nominally  to  check  the 
Indians,  but  very  rarely  attacked  them,  although  the  Comanches 
gave  them  every  opportunity,  and,  thoroughly  despising  them, 
met  them  on  the  open  field,  and  with  equal  numbers  almost 
invariably  defeated  the  regular  troops. 

The  people  themselves  were  unable  to  offer  any  resistance, 
however  well  inclined  they  were  to  do  so,  as  it  was  the  policy 
of  the  Government  to  keep  them  unarmed;  and,  being  un- 
acquainted with  the  use  of  weapons,  when  placed  in  their  hands, 
they  had  no  confidence,  and  offered  but  feeble  resistance.  So 
perfectly  aware  of  this  fact  were  the  Comanches,  that  they 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  51 

never  hesitated  to  attack  superior  numbers.  When  in  small 
parties  the  Mexicans  never  resisted,  even  if  armed,  but  fell 
upon  their  knees  and  begged  for  mercy.  Sometimes,  however, 
goaded  by  the  murder  of  their  families  and  friends,  the  ran- 
cheros  collected  together,  and,  armed  with  bows  and  arrows, 
and  slings  and  stones,  went  out  to  meet  the  Indians,  and  were 
slaughtered  like  sheep. 

In  the  years  1845-1846,  the  Indians  were  more  audacious 
than  in  previous  years.  It  may  be  that  they  were  rendered 
more  daring  by  the  knowledge  of  the  war  between  the  United 
States  and  Mexico,  and  the  supposition  that  the  troops  would, 
consequently,  be  withdrawn  from  the  scene  of  their  operations. 
They  overran  the  whole  Departments  of  Durango  and  Chi- 
huahua, cut  off  all  communications,  and  defeated,  in  two  pitched 
battles,  the  regular  Mexican  troops  sent  against  them.  Upward 
of  ten  thousand  head  of  horses  and  mules  were  carried  off,  in 
those  two  years ;-  scarcely  a  hacienda  or  rancho  on  the  frontier 
was  left  unvisited ;  and  everywhere  the  people  were  killed  or 
captured.  The  roads  were  made  impassable,  all  traffic  was 
stopped,  the  ranchos  were  barricaded,  and  the  inhabitants  were 
afraid  to  venture  out  of  their  doors.  The  posts  and  expresses 
traveled  at  night,  avoiding  the  roads,  and  news  came  daily  of 
massacres  and  harryings. 


52  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 


CHAPTER  V 

After  the  decay  of  the  presidio  system,  the  mightiest  and 
most  dangerous  tribe  of  Indians  in  the  Big  Bend  were  the 
Comanches.  Their  wanderings  and  forays  spread  over  an 
immense  territory.  By  preference,  their  fixed  seats  of  abode 
were  chiefly  in  the  rocky  highlands  which  stretch  between  the 
upper  part  of  the  Red  River  and  the  Rio  Grande.  East  and 
west,  they  extended  from  the  San  Saba  Valley  to  the  thickly 
settled  portion  of  New  Mexico,  which  was  given  over  to  the 
Apaches,  the  inveterate  enemies  of  the  Comanches.  However, 
they  were  great  wanderers  and  often  were  known  to  roam 
along  the  banks  of  the  Arkansas  River  on  the  north,  and  to 
the  interior  of  Durango,  Mexico,  on  the  south. 

They  were  essentially  a  hunter  folk,  without  enduring 
homes,  and  no  liking  for  agriculture.  They  continually  wan- 
dered about  in  this  immense  territory,  following  the  march  of 
the  buffalo,  north  and  east  of  the  Pecos  River,  and  to  a  great 
extent  their  manner  of  living  was  fixed  by  this  running  wild 
cattle.  Year  in  and  year  out,  the  meat  of  the  buffalo  was  their 
main  food.  Even  the  two-year-old  children  were  fed  "jerkey" 
— buffalo  meat  cut  in  narrow  strips  and  dried  by  the  sun. 
The  only  plant  food  which  they  occasionally  ate,  appeared  to 
be  the  inch-thick  root  of  a  specie  of  the  pea,  sometimes  called 
Indian  bread-root.  At  one  time  this  bread-root  was  quite 
common  along  the  banks  of  the  San  Saba  River,  at  the  timber's 
edge.  Very  naturally,  the  need  and  want  of  provisions  was 
frequently  felt  by  a  people  solely  accustomed  to  the  chase ;  and 
in  them  was  bred  a  natural  indolence  and  carelessness,  which, 
at  certain  seasons,  caused  great  suffering  from  hunger.  In  such 
straits,  which  happened  often  when  they  were  on  their  period- 
ical forays  and  could  not  devote  the  time  to  the  chase,  they 
killed  a  horse  or  a  mule. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  53 

Owing  to  the  fact  that  they  trusted  to  Nature  and  their 
ability  to  kill  a  sufficient  number  of  buffalo  for  their  sustenance, 
they  were  prevented  from  gathering  together  in  any  consider- 
able number.  Had  this  not  been  so,  it  is  doubtful  if  the  white 
settlers,  who  pushed  their  way  into  the  hunting-ground  of  the 
Comanches,  could  have  withstood  the  forays  of  the  Indians. 

Just  as  essentially  as  they  were  a  hunter  folk,  they  were  a 
wandering  folk.  All  their  chief  pursuits  were  carried  on  by 
the  horse.  They  fought,  hunted,  and  traveled  on  a  horse.  It  is 
needless  to  say  that  they  were  expert  horsemen,  and  often  in 
battle  it  was  observed  that  as  they  rushed  upon  their  enemy, 
their  horses  running  full  speed,  they  swung  to  the  far  side, 
shooting  at  their  foes  from  the  under-side  of  the  horse's  neck, 
and  exposing  no  part  of  their  body  but  their  foot,  the  heel  of 
which  was  hooked  over  the  horse's  withers. 

The  women  sat  astride  the  horses  just  as  the  men  did,  and 
rode  scarcely  less  skillfully.  The  horses  were,  necessarily,  of 
the  breed  brought  into  the  country  by  the  Spaniards,  and,  while 
not  imposing  in  appearance,  were  capable  of  great  endurance. 
In  part,  these  horses  were  raised  by  the  Indians,  and,  in  part, 
they  were  captured  on  their  forays  into  Mexico,  or  stolen  from 
the  Texas  settlers.  The  stealing  of  horses  they  justified  by 
saying  that  it  was  manifestly  an  injustice  on  the  part  of  the 
Great  Spirit  that  He  had  given  so  many  horses  to  the  white 
men,  who  were  so  trifling  in  number,  while  they  themselves 
had  received  so  few ;  and  they  sought  to  equalize  this  disparity 
as  much  as  possible. 

Perhaps  no  race  of  Indians  had  their  mode  of  living  so 
greatly  changed  as  had  the  Comanches  by  the  coming  of  the 
Spaniards.  From  that  first  moment  when  they  learned  to  use 
the  horse,  dates  all  the  peculiarities  and  terms  of  their  later 
material  existence. 

The  weapons  of  the  Comanches  were  bows,  arrows,  and  the 
long  lance.  Their  bows,  four  feet  in  length,  were  manufac- 
tured from  the  bois  d'arc,  which  was  indigenous  to  East  Texas 
and  Arkansas.  The  arrows  were  two  feet  in  length  and  were 
carried  on  the  back  of  the  warrior,  in  a  quiver  made  of  horse- 


54  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

hide,  and,  sometimes,  of  cougar  or  jaguar  skin.  The  earlier 
arrow-points  were  of  flint ;  but  long  years  before  the  Apaches 
began  to  use  the  iron  points,  the  Comanches  adopted  them 
through  trading  with  the  Spaniards.  The  arrow-head  was 
attached  to  the  shaft  by  means  of  a  thong  or  deer  tendon,  and 
was  so  held  that  after  an  arrow  was  embedded  in  an  object, 
the  shaft  might  be  removed  but  the  arrow-head  would  remain. 
So  skillful  were  the  Indians  with  the  bow  and  arrow  that  while 
a  bullet  would  often  fail  to  penetrate  the  buffalo's  hide,  some- 
times the  arrow  was  shot  with  such  force  that  it  protruded 
from  the  opposite  side  of  the  animal.  The  lance,  which  varied 
in  length  from  six  to  ten  feet,  was  spiked  with  an  elongated 
iron  point,  which  was  manufactured  in  many  cases  from  a 
hundred-year-old  Toledo  sword-blade.  Occasionally,  however, 
but  not  sufficiently  common  to  be  of  great  importance  at  this 
period,  the  Comanches  were  provided  with  the  American  long 
rifle,  but  at  no  time  was  the  rifle  in  the  hands  of  a  Comanche 
so  dangerous  as  his  home-made  bow  and  arrow. 

The  clothing  of  the  Comanche  was  not  greatly  different 
from  that  of  other  North  American  Indians.  It  consisted 
usually  of  leggings,  moccasins,  the  breech  clout,  or  "flap,"  and 
the  buffalo-skin,  or  woolen  cloth,  which  covered  the  whole  body 
as  a  cloak.  Often  they  wore,  besides,  a  tight,  close-fitting 
jacket  or  short  shirt  of  buckskin,  split  in  front,  called  gamusas. 
The  women  were  clothed  in  a  short  dress  or  tunic  of  deer 
leather,  which  was  often  adorned  with  embroidery  and  loose 
hanging  metal  pieces.  Besides  this,  they  wore  moccasins  and 
short  leggings.  The  women  cut  their  hair  moderately  short, 
but  the  men  wore  their  hair  long,  either  flowing  over  the  back 
or  hanging  in  ornamented  plait.  For  head-covering  they  had 
in  general  as  little  as  the  other  Indian  races. 

The  popular  conception  of  an  Indian  is  a  dark-skinned, 
haughty-countenanced  person,  with  a  great  head-dress,  out  of 
which  rises  the  tail  feathers  of  the  eagle;  but  amongst  the 
southern  and  western  Indians,  the  heat  from  the  sun's  rays 
prohibited  the  use  of  anything  on  the  head,  except,  possibly, 
a  band  of  gaudy  cloth,  tied  around  their  heads  to  keep  their 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  55 

hair  from  blowing  into  their  eyes.  Although  deer  and  buffalo 
skins  were  chosen,  when  possible,  for  the  clothing  of  the 
Comanches,  yet  woolen  and  cotton  shirts,  and  other  articles  of 
American  manufacture,  were  often  found  among  them ;  such 
articles  coming  from  the  Government  through  exchange  at  the 
trading-posts,  for  skins.  In  the  main,  their  clothing  was  less 
neat  and  spruce  than  that  of  their  neighbors,  the  Lipan  Apaches. 

In  bodily  structure,  the  Comanche  was  seldom  handsomely 
built,  usually  being  squat  of  stature  and  crooked  of  limb.  They 
could  in  no  way  compare  with  the  half-civilized  Delaware  and 
Shawnees,  among  whom  handsome  forms  and  high-bred,  noble 
countenances  were  frequently  seen.  The  Comanche  women 
were  small  and  undersized,  and  only  in  first  youth,  well- formed 
and  of  pleasing  countenance.  They  faded  early,  due  in  part  to 
the  series  of  hard  bodily  labor  which  fell  to  their  lot,  and  to 
their  naturally  exposed  manner  of  living.  In  contrast,  were 
the  little  children,  with  coal  black,  fiery  eyes,  glistening  dark 
hair  and  brown  complexions,  through  which  the  bright  red  of 
the  cheeks  showed — a  happy,  healthy  youngster,  as  a  rule,  who 
was  handled  with  great  tenderness  by  the  older  people.  As 
was  the  usual  custom  with  the  Indian  mother  of  other  tribes, 
the  Comanche  mother  carried  her  little  one  on  her  back, 
wrapped  in  skins  and  laced  up  on  a  board. 

In  comparison  with  other  Indian  races,  the  Comanches 
stood  out  as  possessing  great  contempt  for  the  enjoyment  of 
spirituous  drinks.  It  is  well  known  that  distilled  drinks  gave 
all  other  North  American  Indians  passionate  enjoyment,  and 
that  firewater,  which  was  brought  to  them  by  unscrupulous 
traders,  often  in  the  form  of  alcohol,  was  next  to  smallpox  in 
evil.  The  Comanches  not  only  rejected  spirits  for  themselves, 
but  scorned  all  others  who  used  intoxicants.  Von  Roemer,  who 
had  extensive  dealings  with  these  Indians  about  1840,  said  that 
while  in  San  Antonio,  Texas,  he  watched  a  pair  of  Comanches 
viewing  a  drunken  Delaware  Indian,  who  was  reeling  along  the 
street,  and  that  he  never  forgot  the  expression  of  deep  con- 
tempt which  showed  on  their  countenances.  Perhaps,  this  one 
trait  in  the  Comanche  people  caused  the  general  fear  and 


56  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

respect  for  them  as  fighters,  which  was  so  widely  felt,  both 
by  the  white  settlers  and  their  red  foes. 

The  villages  of  the  Southern  Comanches  were  composed  of 
tents  or  tepees.  These  tents  were  excellent  for  their  purpose 
and  comfortably  arranged.  They  were  of  cone-shaped  form 
and  twelve  to  fourteen  feet  high;  the  material  of  which  they 
were  constructed  was  the  tanned  buffalo-hide.  Several  hides 
were  sewed  together  and  spread  over  the  framework  of  long 
tent-poles,  which  crossed  each  other  at  a  point  near  the  top. 
From  the  ground  up  to  this  point,  extended  a  small  chink, 
which  was  covered  in  time  of  storm  by  two  flaps.  Through 
this  chink  escaped  the  smoke  of  the  fire,  placed  in  the  center 
of  the  lodge.  A  bear-skin  formed  the  flap  to  the  entrance. 
All  tents  were  so  placed  that  the  smoke-hole  and  the  doors  lay 
towards  the  prevailing  direction  of  the  wind.  Buffalo-skins 
and  bear-skins  were  spread  on  the  ground,  which  formed  the 
floor  of  the  lodge,  and  in  a  circle  sat  the  family  of  the  house- 
hold— the  master  on  a  bear-skin  opposite  the  door,  where  he 
could  observe  what  was  passing  without ;  at  his  side  his  wife, 
occupied  with  the  care  of  the  children,  or  working  bead  em- 
broidery. In  the  center  of  the  tent  was  a  round  hole  in  the 
earth,  upon  which  the  household  cooking  was  done.  From  the 
cross-points  of  the  tent-poles,  in  the  peak  of  the  tent,  was  a 
leather  thong  fastened  to  a  tent  peg,  driven  in  the  ground, 
which  served  to  give  greater  strength  to  the  structure  and 
prevent  its  being  overturned  by  wind-storms. 
3  In  point  of  bravery,  the  Comanches  stand  high  above  the 
Apaches.  While  the  latter  attacked  their  enemy  almost  always 
in  ambush,  and  were  concealed  as  much  as  possible,  on  the 
contrary  the  Comanches  shirked  not  to  stand  in  open  field 
against  the  whites.  Many  times  has  this  been  verified. 

Von  Roemer,  commenting  upon  the  fact  of  the  Comanches' 
bravery,  cites  as  an  example  an  incident  which  occurred  at 
San  Antonio,  while  Lamar  was  President  of  Texas.  The 
Comanches  had  been  long  at  war  with  the  Texans,  without 
either  side  gaining  material  advantage.  Because  of  this,  the 
situation  became  burdensome  to  the  Texans,  and  they  decided, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  57 

if  possible,  to  make  a  treaty  of  peace  with  the  Indians.  With 
this  in  view,  they  invited  the  chiefs  of  the  Comanches  to  a  peace 
conference,  at  San  Antonio;  and  at  the  same  time  summoned 
the  Indians  to  bring  along  their  captives,  for  whose  freedom 
the  Texans  would  negotiate.  As  a  result  of  this  summons, 
some  fifteen  chiefs  appeared  in  San  Antonio  at  the  time  set; 
but  they  left  behind  the  captives  in  a  camp  many  miles  from 
the  town. 

The  peace  conference  began,  and,  conformably,  the  first 
day  was  spent  debating  the  amount  of  ransom  to  be  paid  for 
the  captives.  On  the  following  day,  the  prisoners  were  not 
only  not  produced,  as  the  Indians  had  promised,  but  the  chiefs 
demanded  a  higher  ransom.  Broken  up  over  this  breach  of 
good  faith,  the  Texas  officer,  presiding,  declared  to  the  chiefs 
that  they  themselves  would  be  held  back  as  prisoners  until  they 
had  produced  their  captives. 

The  moment  they  heard  they  were  prisoners,  the  head  chief 
raised  the  war-cry  and  shot  one  of  the  Texas  commissioners 
through  the  breast  with  an  arrow.  The  others  followed  his 
example,  and  before  the  Texans  could  make  use  of  their  weap- 
ons, many  of  them  were  dead  or  wounded.  Still,  the  Texans 
outnumbered  the  Indians,  and,  aided  by  the  armed  guard  held 
ready  in  front  of  the  assembly-house  for  such  an  emergency, 
they  succeeded  in  killing  all  but  one  of  the  Indians.  This  last 
Indian  broke  through  and  fled  into  a  stone  house,  in  which  he 
long  defended  himself.  Then,  for  a  second  time  breaking 
through  the  multitude  besieging  the  house,  he  escaped.  When 
the  fight  first  began  a  thirteen-year-old  son  of  the  chief  was 
playing  in  front  of  the  door  of  the  assembly-house ;  when  the 
war-cry  of  his  tribe  reached  his  ears,  he  sprang  up,  and,  with 
his  small  bow  and  arrow,  shot  down  one  of  the  Texans  who  was 
hastening  towards  the  council-house. 

Von  Roemer,  whose  relations  with  the  Comanches  covered 
an  extended  period,  gives  an  interesting  and  informative  account 
of  a  visit  to  the  Comanches,  under  the  chiefs,  Ocol,  Buffalo 
Hump,  and  Santa  Anna.  This  latter  chief  was  quite  friendly 
with  the  whites.  He  had  shortly  returned  from  a  trip  to 


58  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Washington,  at  the  time  Von  Roemer  visited  him,  and  he  had 
brought  back  a  full  impression  of  the  power  of  the  white  people 
— an  impression  the  Government  desired  to  make  by  having 
several  of  the  Indian  chiefs  visit  the  capital. 

As  Von  Roemer  got  within  a  half  mile  of  the  Indian  camp, 
a  representative  of  the  chiefs,  splendidly  dressed  and  carrying 
a  flag,  met  him  and  ceremoniously  escorted  him  to  the  lodges 
set  aside  for  him  and  his  party.  Hardly  had  the  white  men 
settled  themselves,  when  a  great  number  of  men,  women,  and 
children  gathered  around  them  to  get  a  look  at  "the  white 
strangers.  Already,  they  began  to  eat  and  steal  little  things, 
and  to  be  very  troublesome,  a  practice  which  in  the  following 
days,  through  greedy  crowding,  became  still  worse.  The  whites 
let  their  horses  run  free  after  the  chief  gave  them  the  promise 
that  none  would  be  stolen.  "That  we  found  them  all  again  on 
our  departure,"  says  Von  Roemer,  "is  certainly  a  noteworthy 
evidence  of  the  reliability  of  the  Comanches  when  they  have 
once  pledged  their  hospitality,  especially  when  it  is  considered 
that  such  horses  as  those  of  ours  are  a  treasure  for  any  Indian, 
for  whose  winning  he  is  gladly  ready  to  risk  his  life. 

"Very  early  in  the  evening,"  continues  Von  Roemer,  "our 
Indian  hosts  took  themselves  back  and  left  us  to  rest,  but  which 
we  could  not  soon  find,  so  excited  were  we  by  the  multiplied 
impressions  of  the  day." 

When  the  whites  awoke  on  the  following  morning,  they 
saw  before  their  tents  their  new  friends,  the  three  chiefs,  seated 
by  the  rekindled  fire,  waiting  patiently  for  their  appearance. 
They  were  very  soon  convinced,  however,  that  this  early  visit 
was  not  only  to  wish  them  a  good  morning  in  Comanche- 
land,  but  that  also  a  much  more  solid  design  lay  at  the  bottom — 
a  square  meal.  The  so-called  Comanche  hospitality  was  more 
often  a  negative  kind,  although,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
trifling  articles,  the  Indians  committed  no  theft  against  their 
guests.  It  was  highly  amusing  to  see  how  Santa  Anna,  a  power- 
ful man  in  his  best  years,  lingered  near  the  supply  of  provisions, 
and  used  flattering  words  and  signs  in  order  to  obtain  sweet- 
meats. As  an  excuse  for  the  importunity,  however,  it  was 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  59 

evident  to  the  whites  that  the  Indian  camp  contained  no  provi- 
sions except  a  little  buffalo  meat. 

This  particular  camp  was  composed  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  tents,  of  different  sizes,  which  were  dispersed,  without 
order,  along  the  edge  of  the  wood.  One  of  these  tents,  in  which 
all  official  business  was  conducted,  was  set  apart  from  the 
others,  and  before  the  entrance  was  placed  a  shield,  a  peculiar 
head-dress  of  buffalo-skin,  with  the  buffalo-horns  and  a  lance 
on  it.  These  weapons  so  placed  were  "medicine"  and  were 
sacred  to  the  religious  mysteries,  for  which  reason  no  one 
dared  to  touch  them. 

On  this  trip  of  inspection,  as  Von  Roemer  and  his  party 
approached  a  tent,  they  were  always  welcomed  by  the  sullen 
barks  of  a  number  of  vicious,  lean  dogs,  who  stole  cowardly 
away  when  one  went  straight  toward  them.  Everywhere  they 
saw  the  busy  squaws  occupied  with  the  housework.  Some 
twisted  ropes  of  horse-hair,  used  for  tying  horses;  others 
plaited  leather  straps  or  lassoes  from  small  strips  of  horse- 
hide  ;  still  others  worked  the  hard  buffalo-hide  into  use,  from 
which  they  cut  off  the  still  clinging  fleshy  and  fatty  parts  from 
the  inner  sides  with  a  hook-shaped,  short-handled  work-tool; 
others  were  cleaning  house,  and  farther  away  a  squaw  was 
leading  into  camp  a  pack-horse  loaded  with  venison. 

At  another  place  a  number  of  women  were  engaged  in 
taking  down  tents  and  packing  them  on  mules.  A  mule  packed 
with  skins  on  the  back,  with  a  thick  bundle  twelve  feet  long, 
and  the  tent-poles  dragging  on  the  ground  behind,  presented  a 
strange  sight  to  the  members  of  the  white  party.  One  of  the 
most  easily  read  Indian  signs,  which  usually  marks  an  Indian 
expedition,  was  the  trail  which  the  dragging  tent-poles  left 
behind  on  the  ground. 

While  on  their  review  of  the  village,  the  whites  were  offered 
different  objects  for  trade.  One  could  get  a  good  buffalo-skin 
for  a  woolen  horse-blanket ;  a  smaller  skin  of  the  grey  fox  or 
civet-cat  for  a  small  portion  of  salt  or  corn ;  and  Von  Roemer 
mentioned  that  he  exchanged  a  leather  lasso  for  a  small  quan- 
tity of  cinnibar,  which  must  have  been  obtained  in  the  Ter- 


60  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

lingua  district,  Brewster  County,  Texas,  as  that  was  the  only 
country  inhabited  by  the  Comanches  where  cinnibar  has  been 
found.  The  general  preference  of  the  Indians  was  always  for 
purely  decorative  things  or  trinkets  of  no  practical  use. 

About  the  village,  grazed  easily  one  thousand  horses,  many 
of  which,  including  some  mules,  bore  Mexican  brands.  One 
distinction  about  the  Comanche  horses  was  that  the  points  of 
their  ears  were  slit. 

Toward  noon  of  that  day,  the  Indians  arranged  a  council 
with  the  whites,  to  which  assembled  the  three  head  chiefs  and 
the  most  conspicuous  warriors.  Ocol,  the  first  head  chief,  who 
attended  to  all  political  matters,  was  a  small,  insignificant- 
looking  man,  in  a  dirty  cotton  jacket,  and  his  only  distinguishing 
trait  was  a  sly,  diplomatic  face.  Different  from  him  was  the 
war  chief,  Santa  Anna,  a  strong  man  with  a  benevolent  and 
sprightly  countenance.  The  third  chief,  Buffalo  Hump,  pre- 
sented the  real,  typical  picture  of  the  North  American  Indian. 
Real,  because,  unlike  most  of  his  tribal  kin,  he  disdained  Euro- 
pean clothes.  With  the  upper  part  of  his  body  naked,  a  buffalo- 
skin  wrapped  around  the  hips,  yellow  brass  rings  on  the  arms,  a 
string  of  beads  about  the  throat,  the  long,  coarse  black  hair 
hanging  down,  he  sat  in  the  council  with  a  stern,  apathetic 
expression  of  countenance  popularly  conceived  to  belong  only 
to  the  typical  savage. 

As  the  council  began,  the  women  and  children  drew  away 
from  the  circle  to  a  more  decorous  distance,  and  formed  a 
gayly-colored  background  for  the  assemblage.  In  the  middle 
of  the  circle,  lay  a  small  pile  of  tobacco,  and  a  pipe.  This  an 
Indian  picked  up,  filled  with  tobacco,  and,  after  he  had  lighted 
it,  took  a  couple  of  puffs,  then  sent  it  around  the  circle.  Twice 
around  the  peace  pipe  went,  with  the  silence  remaining  un- 
broken ;  after  this  ceremony,  the  Comanches  entered  into  the 
negotiations  for  a  peace  treaty  with  the  possible  settlers. 

In  the  evening  following  the  negotiations,  which  had  been 
successfully  carried  out,  the  party  of  whites  were  treated  to  a 
customary  spectacle.  A  number  of  horsemen  in  festive  attire 
formed  into  a  procession,  which  filed  slowly  past  the  camp  of 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  61 

the  white  men.  The  faces  of  the  warriors  were  painted  red, 
and  on  their  heads  they  wore  remarkable  head-dresses  of 
buffalo-skins,  with  the  horns  still  on  them.  They  were  the 
same  head-dresses  that  had  been  seen  in  front  of  the  tents.  In 
one  hand,  each  warrior  carried  a  long  lance,  daubed  in  red; 
in  the  other,  a  round  shield  of  tanned  buffalo-hide,  with  gay 
colors  daubed,  and  bordered  with  a  margin  of  different  feath- 
ers, which,  when  the  shield  was  swung,  fluttered  in  the  breeze. 
The  horses  shared  in  the  grotesque  appearance  of  their  riders, 
as  they  were  colored  a  most  fiery  red  on  tail  and  head.  So 
paraded  this  fantastic  procession  many  times  before  the  tents 
of  the  whites,  then  they  passed  away  in  a  long  gallop,  and 
disappeared  in  the  darkness. 

It  was  an  expedition  of  young  warriors  leaving  on  a  war 
trip — or,  more  correctly,  a  robbing  and  plundering  trip — 
against  Mexico, "  who  wished  to  show  their  white  visitors 
something  of  their  strength  and  preparedness  for  trouble. 

An  idea  of  the  general  condition  in  1840  may  be  gained 
through  Von  Roemer's  comment : 

"The  uncertainty  and  misery. in  the  Mexican  border  prov- 
inces of  Coahuila,  Chihuahua  and  Tamaulipas,  in  which  these 
Indians  make  their  regular  inroads,  must  be  boundless.  If  a 
stronger  authority  does  not  take  the  place  of  the  present  in 
Mexico,  then  these  provinces  under  the  Spanish  dominion, 
which  tried  to  hold  in  check  the  strong,  ever-robbing  tribes, 
will  be  gradually  devastated  and  depopulated.  As  a  result, 
always  more  encouraged,  the  Indians  will  spread  their  forays 
into  the  heart  of  the  Mexican  lands.  Probably  an  energetic 
movement  of  all  the  provinces  will  not  be  sooner  than  a  peace- 
able or  warlike  'robbery'  brings  Texas,  New  Mexico  and  Upper 
California  under  the  banner  of  the  United  States.  We  saw 
among  the  Comanches  all  kinds  of  movable  property,  stolen  in 
Mexico,  costly  woolen  cloths,  mules,  horses  and  bridles;  also 
captive  Mexicans,  sometimes  women  and  children.  Some  lived 
so  long  already  among  the  Indians  that  they  feel  no  wish  to 
return  to  their  native  people,  and  which  are  therefore  not 
handled  any  longer  as  prisoners.  A  young  Mexican  was  brought 


62  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

by  us  from  his  owner,  who  was  dissatisfied  with  him,  for  the 
small  piece  of  forty  dollars." 

The  morning  after  the  treaty,  an  amusing  incident  occurred, 
at  least  amusing  to  Von  Roemer  and  his  companions.  An  old 
man  appeared  before  the  chiefs  and  complained  with  woeful 
look  that  the  same  young  people  who  had  held  the  warlike 
proceedings  the  evening  before  had  stolen  his  wife  from  him, 
and  two  of  his  best  horses,  and  had  taken  them  away.  The 
chiefs  advised  him  to  set  out  with  some  other  young  people,  and 
to  take  back  his  stolen  goods. 

Late  that  evening,  the  old  man  returned,  with  satisfaction 
expressed  in  every  seam  of  his  face,  and  related  that  he  had 
found  the  war  party  at  no  great  distance,  and,  while  they  were 
occupied  in  drying  the  flesh  of  horses  for  their  journey,  he  had 
surprised  them,  regained  his  wife,  also  a  span  of  good  mules, 
and  made  off  with  them.  The  wife  was  still  young-looking  and 
not  ill-favored.  To  the  question  why  he  did  not  cut  off  her 
nose,  he  replied  that  he  was  glad  enough  to  get  her  back.  As  a 
punishment  for  unfaithfulness,  it  was  generally  the  custom 
among  the  Comanches  to  mutilate  the  guilty  woman  in  this 
fashion,  and  then  to  repudiate  her.  Von  Roemer  relates  that 
he  saw  many  such  women,  with  noses  cut  off  and  with  short, 
bristly  hair. 

"The  Southern  Comanches  were  distinguished  from  the 
Northern  Comanches,  who  held  their  rancherias  on  the  Purga- 
toire  and  other  branches  of  the  Arkansas  River,  in  Colorado. 
The  Southern  Comanches,  from  the  hills  under  the  staked 
plains  in  Texas,  had  been,  at  the  time  of  the  war  of  Mexico 
with  the  United  States,  for  many  years  incessantly  raiding  the 
Mexican  border  states.  So  long  had  this  continued  that  the 
younger  generations  had  been  reared,  trained  in  all  the  arts  and 
practices  of  predatory  warfare,  and  had  become  accustomed  to 
consider  raiding  into  Mexico  as  their  future  hope  of  gain  and 
distinction. 

"The  scenes  of  their  life  of  rapine  lay  in  the  semi-arid  Big 
Bend  region ;  and  in  this  country  there  is  usually  an  abundance 

Quoted  from  O.  W.  Williams. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  63 

of  rain  in  the  months  of  August  and  September,  when  the 
grasses  start  into  vigorous  growth  and  the  charcos — pools 
formed  from  rain-water — are  full  of  water  all  across  the  desert 
wastes.  So,  in  the  month  of  September  of  each  year,  when 
the  moon  became  full,  the  war  parties  of  young,  ambitious 
bucks  began  to  trail  across  the  four  hundred  miles  of  wild 
country  which  lay  between  the  Llano  Estacado — the  staked 
plains — and  the  homes  of  the  vaqueros  and  farmers  in  Durango 
and  Chihuahua. 

"Magnificent  horsemen  as  they  were,  a  half-wild  horse 
taken  from  some  herd  of  mustangs,  a  bit  with  a  rawhide  rein 
for  bridle,  and  a  tanned  sheep-skin  or  a  patch  of  buffalo-hide 
for  a  stirrupless  saddle,  the  long  trip  over  thorny  plains  and 
through  stony  mountains  was  to  them  a  festive  occasion. 

"With  a  bow  of  Osage  orange  wood — bois  d'arc — and  arrows 
of  the  river  reeds,  or  the  'vara  dulce/  slung  over  the  shoulder 
in  quivers  of  lynx-hides ;  carrying  the  lance  of  ash- wood  shod 
with  iron  and  resting  across  the  saddle  with  the  chimal,  or 
shield,  of  the  buffalo-hide,  fringed  with  turkey  feathers ;  and 
occasionally  an  old  Spanish  escopeta,  with  a  bell-shaped  muzzle, 
much  resembling  the  muzzle  of  a  trombone — a  gun  which  shot 
a  slug  of  lead  as  large  as  a  quail  egg — slung  under  the  leg  in 
a  rawhide  case ;  with  a  Bowie  knife  from  Texas,  or  a  machete 
from  Mexico,  carried  anywhere  room  could  be  made,  these 
freebooters  of  the  plains  were  ready  to  fight  any  foe. 

"Each  year,  in  the  light  of  the  Mexican  moon — for  so  they 
came  to  term  the  September  full  moon — the  Comanche  war 
trail  swarmed  with  parties  of  these  barbaric  warriors,  in  troops 
of  a  half  dozen  to  a  hundred  and  more,  including  outlaws  from 
many  other  tribes  and  even  renegades  from  Mexico,  who  hur- 
ried forward  to  the  carnival  of  bloodshed  and  rapine  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Rio  Grande. 

"The  trail  carried  them  over  the  southeastward  shoulder  of 
the  great  Llano  Estacado,  where,  for  a  hundred  miles,  nothing 
was  to  be  seen  but  the  open,  grassy  plain  tenanted  only  by  the 
jack-rabbit  and  antelope,  and  sentinelled  by  the  gull  and  hawk, 
down  through  the  terraced  pass,  the  Castle  Gap,  just  above  the 


64  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Pecos  River,  into  the  wide  mesquite  plains  of  the  Pecos  River, 
across  Horsehead  Crossing,  on  past  the  noted  Comanche  Springs 
into  the  mesa-topped  limestone  hills,  then  into  the  mountains  of 
burnt  rocks — monuments  of  primeval  fires — and  over  the  Rio 
Grande  into  the  promised  land.  Here  the  parties  diverged, 
each  to  its  own  chosen  area.  One  scourged  the  fertile  valleys 
of  the  Conchos  River,  up  to  the  very  walls  of  Chihuahua  City ; 
others  carried  fire  and  lance  into  the  confines  of  Durango; 
some  went  to  the  mines,  some  to  the  farming  valleys,  but  most 
of  them  sought  the  haciendas,  where  they  might  find  horses  and 
cattle,  the  great  source  of  savage  wealth. 

"Along  in  November  or  December,  following,  the  parties 
began  to  return.  The  great  Comanche  war-trail  then  again 
presented  an  animated  picture.  A  party  here  would  be  driving 
a  herd  of  cattle;  a  party  there,  a  troop  of  half-wild  horses. 
In  another  band  might  be  seen  a  small  train  of  captives,  'laced 
like  Mazeppa  to  a  Tartar  of  the  Ukraine  breed/  and  herded 
and  driven  as  any  other  beasts  devoted  to  man's  use.  There 
might  be  a  great  prairie  fire  started  by  a  party  of  raiders  to 
escape  pursuers,  while  the  party  itself  deflected  from  the  main 
trail. 

"But  there  was  no  way  to  cover  or  hide  the  Great  Trail  itself. 
It  was  worn  deep  by  the  hoofs  of  countless  travelers,  man  and 
beast,  and  was  whitened  by  the  bones  of  many  animals.  It  was 
a  great  chalk  line  on  the  map  of  West  Texas,  cutting  through 
the  heart  of  the  Big  Bend. 

"Among  the  habitual  tenants  of  this  great  trail,  the  Coman- 
ches  were  easily  the  lords.  Their  flag  of  sovereignty  was 
lowered  to  one  necessity  only — the  lingua  franca  of  the  Trail — 
the  Spanish  language.  This  concession  was  granted  because 
the  Kiowa,  the  Utah,  the  Cheyenne,  the  Apache,  and  Comanche, 
each  in  time,  learned  some  Spanish  from  his  Mexican  captive, 
while  the  captive  in  turn  became  a  good  Indian,  and  at  the 
same  time  a  good  interpreter;  so  it  came  about,  as  has  so 
often  happened  among  the  languages  of  the  world,  that  the 
tongue  of  the  vanquished  became  the  tongue  of  the  war  trail. 
This  was  aided  and  supplemented  in  many  ways  by  the  sign 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  65 

language  common  to  the  Indians  of  the  Spanish  Southwest,  so 
that  on  the  trail  these  Indians  of  divers  races  and  tongues  had 
a  common  language  which  was  foreign  to  each  one  of  them. 

"Among  these  lords  of  the  war  trail,  Tave  Tuk,  or  as  he  was 
generally  called,  Bajo  el  Sol,  the  Comanche,  was  the  most  noted 
war-chief.  He  was  distinguished  for  skill  in  arms,  for  address 
in  the  battle  plan;  but  mostly  for  indomitable  courage  in  the 
fight.  It  was  said  that  he  took  his  name  because  he  feared 
nothing  'under  the  sun/ 

"His  mother,  old  Tave  Pete,  was  a  kind  of  female  shaman 
in  her  tribe.  She  was  old — so  old,  the  time-honored  Mexicans 
said,  that  when  she  rode  on  the  forays,  she  tied  up  her  lower 
jaw  by  a  thong  passing  up  over  her  head,  in  order  to  prevent 
it  dropping  down  against  her  throat  and  breast,  as  it  otherwise 
would  have  done ;  yet  she  had  great  influence  with  her  people. 
An  old  Mexican,  who  formerly  told  the  story  of  the  prowess 
of  Bajo  el  Sol,  said  that  he  listened  to  Tave  Pete  once  deliver 
her  orders  to  her  people  from  the  belfry  in  the  church  at  the 
old  presidio  of  San  Carlos;  and  that  immediately  after  her 
harangue,  the  Indians  hastily  packed,  mounted  their  horses, 
and  took  their  way  to  the  hills. 

"On  account  of  his  mother's  power  and  that  of  his  brothers, 
Mauve  and  the  two  pelones,  but  chiefly  on  account  of  his  own 
powers,  Tave  Tuk  was  a  great  chief  of  the  war  trail.  The 
Indians  attached  themselves  to  such  leaders  as  they  chose,  and 
Tave  Tuk,  or  Bajo  el  Sol,  always  carried  the  largest  war-party, 
and  his  power  extended  very  largely  to  other  bands  over  which 
he  was  not  in  immediate  control. 

"The  forays  of  the  Indians  in  Chihuahua  and  Durango  were 
most  destructive  to  life  and  property.  The  country  was  being 
depopulated.  The  center  of  government  at  the  City  of  Mexico 
— when  there  happened  to  be  one — was  entirely  occupied  in 
trying  to  uphold  itself  against  hostile  factions,  and  had  no  time 
to  aid  its  frontier  states.  These  states  themselves  were  more  or 
less  divided  among  warring  factions ;  all  was  confusion.  The 
states  were  suffering  both  from  the  Comanche  war-trail  and, 
also,  from  the  mountain  Apaches,  who,  from  their  rancherias 


66  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

in  New  Mexico,  Chihuahua,  and  the  Davis  Mountains  in  the 
Big  Bend,  descended  upon  the  defenseless  borders  in  a  separate 
warfare  of  their  own.  The  Comanches  descended  upon  these 
frontiers  once  a  year,  but  the  mountain  Apaches — like  the  poor 
— were  with  them  always. 

"In  despair  over  the  situation,  the  State  of  Chihuahua  re- 
solved to  make  a  treaty  with  the  Indians  for  that  state  alone.  As 
the  lesser  of  two  evils,  and  also  as  probably  being  a  more  reliable 
ally,  it  was  decided  to  treat  with  the  Comanches.  The  treaty 
was  made  with  Bajo  el  Sol,  as  the  main  chief,  and  with  other 
chiefs  of  the  war  trail,  by  which  Bajo  el  Sol  and  his  associates, 
for  a  consideration,  agreed  to  make  war  on  the  Mescalero 
Apaches,  and  to  refrain  from  ravaging  Chihuahua,  being  left 
free,  however,  to  raid  any  other  Mexican  states.  To  carry  out 
the  agreement  more  effectually,  the  Indians  of  the  war  trail 
moved  into  Chihuahua,  to  the  borders  of  Lake  Haco.  From 
this  seat,  they  could  more  conveniently  carry  on  the  fight  with 
the  Mescalero  Apaches,  and  at  the  same  time  harry  Durango. 

"While  this  treaty  was  in  force,  Bajo  el  Sol,  with  his  wife 
and  her  younger  brother,  was  traveling  near  the  Del  Carmen 
Mountains,  on  the  Rio  Grande,  above  Boquillas,  Brew- 
ster  County,  when  they  ran  into  a  band  of  about  thirty  Mes- 
calero Apaches.  These  Indians  had  in  their  possession  a  captive 
Mexican  boy,  by  name  Domingo  Porras. 

"The  wife  of  the  Comanche  chief  entreated  him  to  go  on 
and  leave  the  Apaches  unmolested.  To  this,  Bajo  el  Sol  replied 
that  his  treaty  with  Chihuahua  bound  him  to  fight  the  Apaches 
wherever  he  met  them,  and  he  would  not  have  it  said  that  he 
feared  the  face  of  living  man.  So  he  sent  on  his  wife  and  her 
brother,  and  prepared  to  make  his  lone  fight  against  thirty 
Apaches. 

"He  tightened  the  cinch  of  his  skin  saddle,  and  examined  the 
rawhide  bits  in  the  mouth  of  his  horse.  Then  he  looked  to  see 
that  the  point  of  his  ash-wood  spear  was  well  set,  saw  that  his 
arrows  were  good  and  in  place,  strung  his  bois  d'arc  bow,  and 
placed  his  chimal  buffalo-hide  in  readiness. 

"His  preparations  complete,  he  rode  up  to  the  Apaches  and 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  67 

in  the  lingua  franca  of  the  Southwestern  Indians,  demanded 
the  surrender  of  the  captive  boy.  This  was  refused.  He  then 
informed  them  that  he  would  fight  them  and  that  they  must  get 
ready.  In  reply,  they  taunted  him.  He  set  his  spear  firmly 
under  his  right  armpit,  and  charged. 

"The  Apaches  scattered  to  avoid  the  charge,  and,  while  they 
ran  and  dodged  among  the  bushes  and  rocks,  Bajo  el  Sol  shot 
at  them  with  his  bow  and  arrows.  After  this  erratic  manner, 
the  fight  continued  for  several  hours,  during  which  time  he 
killed  two  Apaches  and  wounded  several  others.  His  arrows 
all  being  shot,  Bajo  el  Sol  continued  the  fight  with  his  spear 
alone,  which  the  Apaches,  owing  to  the  broken  nature  of  the 
ground,  were  easily  able  to  avoid. 

"In  some  manner  the  Apaches  had  gained  possession  of  an 
old  escopeta,  and  the  owner  had  only  one  load.  At  last,  it  was 
planned  among  the  Apaches  that  the  owner  of  the  escopeta 
should  hide  behind  a  certain  rock,  while  the  other  Indians  con- 
tinued to  lure  Bajo  el  Sol  to  charge  them  by  the  side  of  this 
rock.  He  charged,  as  they  intended  him  to  do,  and  the  Indian 
with  the  escopeta  came  out  from  behind  the  rock  just  after  he 
had  passed  and  fired  at  him  at  point-blank  range.  The  slug 
struck  Bajo  el  Sol  in  the  back  of  the  head,  and  he  fell  from 
his  horse.  Thus  ended,  in  the  foothills  of  the  Del  Carmen 
Mountains,  the  last  fight  of  the  most  heroic  Indian  of  the  old 
Comanche  War  Trail." 


68  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 


CHAPTER  VI 

The  immediate  predecessors  of  the  white  man  in  the  occu- 
pancy of  the  country  known  as  the  Big  Bend,  were  Indians  of 
the  Apache  family,  a  southern  branch  of  the  Athabascan  lin- 
guistic group.  While  the  Apaches  were  often  encroached  upon 
by  the  Comanche  tribes  north  and  east  of  the  Pecos  River,  and 
while  these  latter  Indians  often  occupied  territory  west  of  this 
river,  still  they  had  no  permanent  habitations  or  rancherias,  as 
did  the  Apaches. 

The  past  few  years  have  seen  the  greatest  advance  in 
research  work  along  ethnological  and  anthropological  lines  in 
regard  to  the  Indian  races  in  the  Spanish  Southwest.  Still, 
much  remains  to  conjecture.  The  Apache  family,  the  different 
branches  of  which  occupied  Southwest  Texas,  still  remains  a 
great  puzzle  to  the  scientists.  At  different  times,  and  given 
by  different  writers,  the  name  Apache  varies  greatly.  We  find 
such  names  as  Salinero,  Faraone,  Perillos,  and  Mescaleros 
applied  to  the  Indians  who  lived  between  the  junction  of  the 
Pecos  River  and  the  Rio  Grande,  and  westward  into  New 
Mexico.  Besides  these  branches  of  the  Apache  family,  we  find 
that  in  the  early  settlement  of  Chihuahua  and  Coahuila,  the 
Spaniards  were  greatly  harassed  by  the  Tobosos,  a  tribe  then 
living  on  the  Rio  Grande,  between  the  mouth  of  the  Conchos 
River  and  the  Santa  Rosa  Mountains,  to  the  east.  This  name 
survives  as  applied  to  the  well-known  Toboso  grass,  but  it  seems 
to  have  utterly  died  out  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago  as  the 
name  of  a  tribe. 

These  Indians  were  described  as  being  numerous,  and  they 
fought  in  guerrilla  warfare  with  the  usual  Apache  tactics.  No 
serious  defeat  was  registered  against  them,  yet  about  the  year 
1660  they  disappeared  from  the  pages  of  history.  At  the  same 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  69 

time,  or  a  little  later,  we  hear  of  Mescalero  Apaches  in  South- 
west New  Mexico,  and  in  1749  the  records  state  that  they  killed 
Padre  Silva  on  the  Coahuila  Road,  in  Mexico. 

The  connecting  link  between  the  Tobosos  and  the  Mesca- 
leros  is  fairly  well  established.  All  over  the  old  Toboso  hunting- 
grounds,  south  of  the  Rio  Grande,  there  still  remain  those 
characteristic  rock-piles  which  the  Mescaleros,  as  well  as  their 
progenitors,  the  Tobosos,  made  in  roasting  sotol,  lechuguilla, 
and  mescal ;  hence  it  is  very  easy  to  draw  the  conclusion  that 
the  Tobosos  were  the  Mescaleros,  and  occupied  both  sides  of 
the  Rio  Grande  west  of  the  junction  with  the  Pecos  River, 
at  the  first  approach  of  Spanish  settlements.  Therefore,  it  can 
be  readily  seen  that  the  Apaches  were  the  lords  of  the  soil  in 
the  Big  Bend,  from  the  first  coming  of  the  Spaniards  to  about 
the  year  1870,  when  the  last  band  left  the  lower  part  of  old 
Pecos  County  and  took  up  their  home  and  made  their  last 
rancheria/  in  the  Chisos  Mountains.  Among  the  Mexican 
descendants  of  the  earliest  Spanish  settlers  on  the  Rio  Grande, 
there  is  a  tradition  that  there  was  an  earlier  race  of  people  in 
this  country,  whom  their  forefathers  designated  as  Cholumbos. 
They  say  that  the  flint  arrow-heads,  spear-heads,  obsidian 
knives,  fire-drills,  and  the  round  hammer-heads  of  tuff,  the 
broken  fragments  of  which  are  so  abundant  in  this  section,  are 
the  remains  of  this  early  people  and  not  of  the  Apaches. 

Just  how  much  of  this  tradition  is  true  cannot  be  ascer- 
tained, but  an  examination  of  the  remains  and  evidence  extant 
has  failed  to  establish  a  connecting  link  between  this  lost  race 
and  the  Athabascans  who  followed  them. 

Mrs.  Sarah  M.  Janes,  who  spent  a  number  of  years  in  the 
Davis  Mountains,  and  devoted  considerable  time  to  Indian 
culture,  has  perhaps  the  finest  private  collection  of  Indian  pot- 
tery, implements,  arrow-heads,  and  other  Indian  paraphernalia, 
in  the  Big  Bend.  Mrs.  Janes,  who  is  accredited  with  being  the 
first  white  woman  to  climb  Mount  Livermore — the  apex  of 
the  Davis  Mountains  and  the  second  highest  peak  in  Texas — 
made  seven  trips  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Livermore,  in  the 
interest  of  Indian  culture. 


70  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

These  trips  were  made  with  a  view  of  establishing  more 
facts  in  regard  to  a  cache  of  Indian  arrow-heads  that  was  dis- 
covered under  a  rock  monument  on  Mount  Livermore.  The 
discovery  of  these  arrow-heads  created  considerable  interest  in 
the  Smithsonian  Institution,  Washington,  D.  C.  T.  A.  Merrill 
first  examined  the  "grave,"  as  it  is  commonly  called.  Until 
recently,  the  monument  was  supposed  to  have  been  erected  by 
the  Indians  at  the  time  they  buried  their  arrows.  It  was  argued 
that  no  one  would  spend  time  and  energy  to  erect  a  monument 
of  such  dimensions,  without  a  motive.  The  fact  that  arrows 
were  found  beneath  it,  would  seem  to  prove  the  monument  to 
be  the  work  of  Indians.  But  a  knowledge  of  the  Indians'  dis- 
inclination to  do  unnecessary  work,  brought  about  further 
investigation,  with  the  result  that  the  builder  of  the  monument 
was  found.  Captain  W.  R.  Livermore,  now  a  retired  colonel, 
while  engaged  in  surveying  the  Big  Bend,  for  the  War  Depart- 
ment, in  1884,  used  the  peak  which  later  became  known  as 
Mount  Livermore,  for  his  base  of  observation.  By  a  coinci- 
dence, without  knowledge  of  the  "grave,"  he  erected  his  base 
monument  on  the  very  spot  used  by  the  Indians  for  the  disposal 
of  their  arrow-points. 

However,  two  representatives  of  the  Smithsonian  Insti- 
tution— Professor  Douglas,  United  States  Inspector  of  Surveys, 
and  Vincent  Bailey,  the  naturalist,  who  inspected  the  cairn, 
or  Indian  "grave,"  separately  and  at  different  times — agreed 
that  the  evidence  found  on  Mount  Livermore  points  to  a  pre- 
historic people,  and  to-day  specimens  of  the  arrows  discovered 
in  the  crypt  can  be  seen  in  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  labeled 
"Prehistoric." 

These  arrows  corresponded  in  size  to  those  generally  used 
by  Indian  children,  commonly  called  "bird  arrows."  A  great 
many  of  them  were  of  obsidian,  a  glassy,  silicious  rock,  kin 
to  quartz ;  others  were  of  the  ordinary  flint.  At  the  time  of 
this  discovery,  there  had  been  no  other  such  discoveries  made 
outside  of  a  similar  cairn  in  Death  Valley,  California ;  but  in 
the  past  two  years,  in  the  research  work  relative  to  gathering 
this  historical  data,  similar  finds,  differing  only  in  quantity, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  71 

have  been  made  in  the  Davis  Mountains  and  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Rio  Grande. 

The  fact  that  similar  arrows  have  been  found  in  the  sites 
of  former  Apache  rancherias,  and  also  in  favorite  camping 
places  of  these  Indians,  where  the  arrow-makers  plied  their 
trade,  would  seem  to  prove  a  relationship  between  the  tribes 
who  buried  the  arrows  on  Mount  Livermore  and  those  Indians 
who  later  became  known  as  Rancheria  Apaches — Mescalero 
Apaches — who  lived  in  settlements  near  springs  or  other  sources 
of  water  supply. 

The  remains  of  these  primitive  people  may  be  classified  in 
three  groups.  First,  are  the  domestic  implements,  and  those 
used  in  the  war  and  chase,  referred  to  by  the  Mexicans.  They 
a*re  flint  arrows,  spear-heads,  obsidian  and  flint  knives,  beads 
of  mussel-shell  and  of  soft  stone,  flint  scrapers,  and  the  flat- 
tened rock  inetates,  used  in  grinding  corn,  acorns,  and  mesquite 
beans ;  besides,  a  few  other  implements,  generally  of  stone  or 
of  bone,  which  were  used  in  savage  life.  The  flint  implements 
are  made  of  rock  lying  abundantly  in  the  mountain  regions 
west  of  the  Pecos  River.  These  implements  are  found  scat- 
tered over  the  country  in  great  quantity,  especially  in  the 
neighborhood  of  permanent  water,  where  the  Indians  had  their 
favorite  camping-places. 

Second,  a  peculiar  class  of  rock  mounds  are  found,  known 
as  mescal-pits.  They  are  scattered  over  the  country,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  rock  croppings,  and  are  located  apparently 
without  any  convenience  to  permanent  water.  They  may  be 
found  in  the  Big  Bend  by  the  thousands,  and  are  generally  of  a 
certain  and  well-defined  shape.  Each  mound  is  circular  in 
shape,  fifteen  to  twenty-five  feet  in  diameter,  hollow  in  the 
center,  and  with  a  rim  of  rocks  of  uneven  height  around  the 
circumference,  generally  much  higher  on  the  north  or  north- 
west side  than  anywhere  else,  to  agree  with  the  prevailing 
direction  of  the  wind.  In  the  middle  will  be  found  strong 
signs  of  fire,  both  ashes  and  charcoal  being  evident.  These 
mounds  are  found  of  largest  size  and  most  frequently  in  places 
where  there  is  now  an  abundance  of  sotol  or  lechuguilla,  but 


72  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

they  are  also  found  in  localities  where  neither  of  these  plants 
grow.  In  such  cases  the  mounds  are  smaller  and  the  circular 
pit  form  is  not  so  well  denned,  showing  that  perhaps  ages  have 
elapsed  since  that  country  was  covered  with  sotol  or  iechuguilla. 

The  third  class  of  remains  is  mortuary,  and  in  some  re- 
spects quite  peculiar.  Graves  are  found  in  high,  prominent, 
exposed  places.  A  high  bluff,  overlooking  a  valley,  is  a  favorite 
place  for  the  most  elaborate  of  these  graves— a  location  that 
an  Indian  chief  would  naturally  select  for  his  burial  place. 
The  body  appears  generally  to  have  been  laid  on  the  ground, 
without  regard  to  any  especial  attitude.  Ornaments  and  im- 
plements of  the  war  and  chase  were  placed  in  the  hands,  and 
the  corpse  was  then  covered  with  stones,  and  the  grave  often 
marked  by  an  outside  ring  of  flat  stones,  set  on  end,  extending 
around  the  body  in  a  circle.  Graves  of  this  character  indicate 
the  prominence  of  the  dead,  and  are  probably  those  of  shamans, 
medicine-men,  or  chiefs. 

Another  class  of  graves  is  found  on  the  slopes  of  prominent 
hills  or  bluffs,  where  the  stratum  of  rock  crops  out  and  leaves 
an  exposed  face  one  or  two  feet  in  height,  where  the  front 
drops  to  the  next  lower  stratum.  Here  the  body  is  laid  against 
the  face  of  a  rock  and  stones  piled  over  it,  generally  giving 
the  grave  the  appearance  of  a  semi-circular  pile  of  rock,  hard 
to  distinguish  from  the  broken  slides  of  talus  usually  found 
in  such  places.  As  in  all  other  graves,  implements  and  weap- 
ons are  found  buried  with  the  dead,  but  in  these  graves  the 
character  of  the  implements  found  indicates  often  that  women 
are  buried  in  them.  Here  you  will  find  the  flat  stones  used 
for  grinding  corn  and  beans,  the  flint  scrapers  used  in  dressing 
gamusas,  or  deer  skins,  and  the  bone-needle,  such  as  an  Indian 
woman  used.  The  Indian  had  no  more  idea  of  the  honor  due 
his  squaw  in  her  death  than  he  had  in  her  life.  She  was 
buried  on  the  hillside,  while  her  lord  and  master  was  laid  on 
the  highest  and  most  prominent  spot,  where  he  could  continue, 
after  death,  to  look  down  upon  his  inferior  half. 

The  three  above  classifications  may  be  supplemented  by  two 
other  evidences  of  Indian  occupancy.  The  first  of  these  is  the 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  73 

remains  of  former  irrigation  systems  which  were  in  operation 
before  the  advent  of  the  Spaniards.  That  the  Indians  were 
the  builders  of  these  aceqmas,  rather  than  the  Mexicans,  can 
be  established  in  one's  mind  simply  by  a  brief  survey  of  Mex- 
ican settlements.  When  once  the  Mexican  settles  a  spot,  there 
remains  to-day,  if  the  settlement  is  abandoned,  the  usual  adobe 
structures.  On  account  of  the  durability  of  adobe,  ruins 
are  standing  to-day  which  date  back  to  the  very  beginning  of 
Spanish  occupation,  three  hundred  and  ninety  years  ago.  In 
the  case  of  the  Indian  settlements,  or  rancherias,  there  remains 
no  sign  of  habitation  in  the  nature  of  buildings  or  homes.  One 
of  the  most  pronounced  signs  of  former  Indian  occupancy  are 
those  found  in  A.  J.  Tippett's  Mitre  Peak  apple  orchard,  situ- 
ated some  four  miles  off  the  road  leading  from  Fort  Davis 
to  Alpine. 

The  Tippett  orchard  is  located  on  a  bench  of  rich  loam, 
which,  at  some  former  age,  had  washed  down  from  the  moun- 
tains above.  Between  the  mountains  and  the  orchard  are  a 
series  of  broken  hills,  at  the  foot  of  which  is  a  magnificent 
spring,  the  source  of  water  used  at  present  to  irrigate  the 
orchard.  This  spring  at  one  time  had  been  sealed  up  by  the 
Indians,  and  even  to-day  the  flow  of  water  comes  from  a 
partly  dammed  up  exit.  Although  the  orchard  is  thirty  years 
old,  or  more,  signs  still  remain  of  the  former  Indian  ran- 
cheria.  From  the  spring  to  the  back  of  the  orchard  there  is 
a  gradual  slope,  and  the  Indians  had  terraced  this,  using  walls 
of  rock  to  retain  the  water  on  each  terrace,  each  terrace  form- 
ing a  semi-circle,  with  the  spring  as  the  center  of  circumfer- 
ence. There  were  perhaps  a  dozen  terraces,  all  forming  a  semi- 
circle, facing  the  spring.  On  the  east  side  of  the  orchard, 
farthest  from  the  spring,  Mr.  Tippett  excavated  for  a  reser- 
voir and  found  the  bones  of  a  number  of  Indians,  and  several 
implements  peculiar  to  the  Apaches.  He  also  found  a  number 
of  arrow  points,  similar  to  those  taken  from  the  crypt  on 
Mount  Livermore.  In  the  broken  hills  just  above  the  springs 
are  scores  of  molinos,  or  hand-mills,  hollowed  out  of  the 
igneous  rock,  which  were  used  to  grind  corn  and  which  go  to 


74  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

show  that  perhaps  the  crop  most  raised  by  the  Indians  was 
corn. 

The  remains  of  another  extensive  irrigation  system  can  still 
be  seen  near  the  Kendrick  ranch,  northeast  of  Agua  Spring, 
in  Brewster  County.  The  main  ditch  can  be  seen  to  have  been 
at  least  half  a  mile  long,  and  it  is  built  zig-zag,  twenty-five 
feet  down  a  slope,  then  turning  to  the  right  or  left  twenty-five 
feet,  thus  preventing  the  water  flowing  fast  enough  to  wash 
the  soil  badly.  Considerable  skill  is  shown  in  its  construction, 
and  at  one  time  it  must  have  been  the  main  ditch  in  an  exten- 
sive irrigation  system.  Had  the  Mexicans  built  this  ditch  there 
would  still  be  other  evidences  of  their  buildings. 

Again,  on  Limpia  Creek,  just  up  the  canyon  from  the  pres- 
ent site  of  Fort  Davis,  was  another  rancheria  of  the  Apaches, 
where  they  used  ditches  to  convey  the  water  from  Limpia 
Creek  to  their  corn  fields.  As  late  as  1849,  when  the  first  Gov- 
ernment reconnaissance  passed  through  Fort  Davis  on  its  way 
to  El  Paso,  corn  was  seen  growing,  under  irrigation,  and  the 
Indians,  upon  the  sight  of  the  soldiers,  fled  into  the  mountains. 

The  other  evidences  of  Indian  occupation  are  the  crude  draw- 
ings and  paintings,  so  commonly  found  in  countries  occupied 
formerly  by  the  Indians.  Specifically,  these  works  of  Indian 
art  tell  us  little;  to  the  Indian  they  doubtless  meant  much. 
The  drawings  were  guide  posts  to  the  warrior  or  hunter,  away 
from  his  home  country,  pointing  him  to  the  water,  the  trails, 
the  ranges  of  game,  and  other  things  of  importance  to  the 
nomadic  savage.  The  intelligence  and  civilization  of  a  people 
are  judged  largely  by  their  art  and  literature ;  these  drawings 
and  paintings  represented  the  art  and  literature  of  the  Indians. 
And  as  their  works  in  the  Big  Bend  were  inferior  to  those 
of  the  pueblo  tribes  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona,  we  can 
safely  assume  that  the  Indians  of  the  Big  Bend  were  of  a 
lower  grade  of  intelligence  and  occupied  a  lower  position  in 
the  scale  of  Indian  civilization  than  the  tribes  farther  west.  In 
a  general  way,  this  is  what  the  Indian  drawings  and  paintings 
tell  us. 

Considering  the  various  classes  of  remains,  the  evidence 


THE  SENTINEL 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  75 

goes  to  show  that  either  the  Cholumbos  were  a  people  of  the 
same  grade  of  culture  as  the  Mescalero  Apaches,  or  that  they 
were  the  Mescaleros  themselves.  The  latter  is  not  improbable, 
because,  as  we  have  seen,  the  Mescaleros  appear  to  have  been 
known  to  different  people,  at  different  times,  under  widely 
different  names.  This  is  a  very  common  circumstance  in  the 
history  of  Indian  tribes,  for  the  tribe  may  be  known  by  its 
own  name,  or  by  the  name  given  it  in  derision  or  compliment 
by  other  tribes,  enemies  or  allies.  For  example,  the  Comanches 
are  often  alluded  to  in  early  history  by  the  French  as  Paducas, 
by  the  English  as  lataus,  while  they  called  themselves  Num. 

Taking  this  evidence  up  in  detail,  we  are  reasonably  certain 
as  to  the  first  class  of  remains,  that  flint,  obsidian  and  tuff 
weapons  and  implements  were  common  to  all  Indian  tribes 
before  the  coming  of  the  white  man.  Beyond  a  very  limited 
amount  of  native  copper,  no  metal  was  in  domestic  use  among 
them.  One  piece  of  metal,  found  in  connection  with  Indian 
raiding  in  Pecos  County,  was  discovered  on  Leon  Creek,  in 
an  old  grave.  It  was  a  small  circular  piece  of  copper,  beaten 
flat,  and  having  a  small  hole  bored  in  the  center.  It  may  have 
come  to  this  region  by  barter  among  primitive  Indians  from 
the  Lake  Superior  mines,  which  were  worked  by  the  Indians, 
or  it  may  have  been  fashioned  by  a  white  man  in  the  last  hun- 
dred years. 

The  remains  of  these  flint  implements  are  all  of  the  same 
class  of  workmanship.  There  is  no  difference  in  construction 
and  finish ;  they  are  of  a  common  kind.  What  is  found  in  one 
grave,  in  one  cave,  or  around  one  mescal-pit,  that  same  class 
of  implements,  of  the  same  pattern,  will  be  found  around 
another.  So  far  as  these  remains  show  there  is  no  evidence 
that  more  than  one  people  ever  lived  in  the  Big  Bend  before 
the  coming  of  the  whites. 

As  to  the  second  class  of  remains,  there  is  also  little  room 
for  doubt.  They  belong  peculiarly  to  the  Apaches.  The  name 
given  the  Tobosos  or  rancheria  Apaches — Mescalero,  meaning 
mescal-makers — was  given  to  these  Apaches  from  their  dis- 
tinctive custom  of  roasting  and  fermenting  mescal  or  sotol. 


76  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

This  custom  was  probably  connected  primarily  with  a  sort 
of  spirit  or  fetish  worship.  The  term,  mescal,  is  now  con- 
nected with  several  objects,  but  in  each  case  the  underlying 
significance  is  in  some  way  connected  with  intoxication.  The 
word  mescal  is  Indian  and  seems  originally  to  have  meant  a 
peculiar  kind  of  melon  cactus,  called  by  the  Indians  peixoto. 

It  was  the  custom  of  the  Mescaleros  to  build  a  fire  on  a 
flat  pile  of  rock  and,  after  the  rocks  were  sufficiently  heated, 
the  mescales  were  placed  on  it  and  covered  with  other  rocks, 
after  which  fire  was  again  built  over  all,  and  kept  up  until 
the  mescales  were  sufficiently  roasted ;  then  the  mescales  were 
put  away  for  safe  keeping  until  the  proper  time  should  come 
for  their  use  in  the  ceremony.  During  this  time  the  sugar  in 
the  plant  became  fermented  or  probably  converted  to  alcohol. 
When  the  time  came  for  the  mescal  feast,  or  ceremony,  certain 
of  the  leading  men — women  were  excluded  from  joining — 
took  the  mescales  and  went  to  a  secluded  spot  in  the  hills, 
and,  sitting  in  a  circle,  each  Indian  ate  his  mescal.  This  was 
done  in  silence,  which  continued  unbroken  twenty-four  to 
forty-eight  hours.  While  under  the  influence  of  the  mescal,  the 
Indians  had  many  dreams  and  saw  many  visions.  Then,  at 
a  signal,  the  circle  broke  up.  The  visions  and  dreams  were 
considered  as  interviews  with  the  spirits  and  were  looked  to 
for  guidance  in  temporal  affairs. 

But  these  mescal-pits  were  used  for  more  than  roasting 
mescal.  The  sotol,  which  is  close  kin  to  the  mescal,  was 
quite  an  article  of  food  with  the  Mescaleros.  It  was  roasted 
and  eaten  fresh  in  a  similar  manner  to  our  corn  roasting-ears. 
After  roasting  it  was  often  powdered  and  carried  along  as 
food.  In  time,  it  became  sour,  and  finally  worthless,  but  it 
had  to  obtain  a  bad  odor  indeed  before  the  Mescalero  would 
refuse  to  eat  it.  Again,  these  pits  served  for  roasting  lechu- 
guilla,  which,  it  is  said,  nothing  but  a  deer,  javelin — the  wild 
Mexican  hog — or  a  Mescalero  would  eat.  In  these  pits  used 
for  this  purpose,  game  animals  were  often  roasted  whole; 
a  mule,  being  considered  by  the  Apache  as  the  finest  flavored 
of  the  "game"  animals,  was  roasted  whole,  unless  the  Indian 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  77 

was  a  trifle  hungry,  in  which  event  he  did  not  wait  to  cook  his 
meat  but  took  it  "rare." 

As  to  the  third  class,  the  rock-covered  graves,  it  is  fairly 
certain  that  they  are  of  Apache  origin.  The  custom  of  burying 
on  high  points  prevailed  among  a  few  Indian  tribes  other 
than  the  Apaches.  The  custom  of  burying  the  weapons  and 
implements  of  the  deceased  with  him  was  a  common  practice 
of  all  North  American  Indians,  and  resulted  from  what  seemed 
to  have  been  a  general  belief  among  them  that  there  was  a 
life  hereafter  in  the  Indian  paradise,  hence  his  favorite  weap- 
ons of  the  chase  and  hunt  were  buried  with  him,  to  be  used  in 
the  spirit  land. 

So  it  appears  that  the  remains  of  ancient  inhabitants  of 
this  country  can  be  reasonably  attributed  to  the  Mescaleros, 
while  some  of  these  remains  can  not  well  be  assigned  to  any 
other  tribe  concerning  whose  habits  we  have  any  knowledge ; 
and  the  Cholumbos,  if  there  was  such  a  people,  were  either 
the  Mescaleros,  or  a  people  of  similar  customs. 

Among  some  of  the  older  Mexicans  along  the  Rio  Grande 
border,  there  are  a  few  ancient  story-tellers,  who  have  been  a 
repository  of  legends  handed  down  from  father  to  son  for 
several  generations,  and  whose  stories  should  be  taken  for 
what  they  are  worth.  There  live  to-day  only  a  few  of  these 
ancient  bards,  who  sing  their  prose  songs  about  former  great 
days,  and  one  of  these,  Natividad  Lujan,  told  the  following 
story.  In  the  early  '8o's,  Judge  Williams,  with  a  party,  was 
running  surveys  in  the  Big  Bend,  near  the  Rio  Grande,  and 
Natividad  was  his  guide. 

"After  a  long  climb  through  artenisias,  fouquieras,  yuccas, 
and  other  thorny  plants  of  this  thorn  infested  country,"  said 
the  Judge,  "we  arrived,  late  in  the  afternoon,  at  the  summit 
of  the  hill  towards  which  our  burros  had  all  day  been  headed. 
We  stopped  to  allow  the  animals  to  gain  a  breathing  spell  and 
I  looked  around  me  at  the  extensive  view. 

"It  was  a  goodly  sight,  for  on  three  sides  of  me  the  peaks 
and  mountains  of  two  thousand  square  miles  of  territory  were 
visible.  To  the  south  could  be  seen  the  curves  in  the  gigantic 


78  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

wall  of  limestone,  out  of  which  crept  the  Rio  Grande.  This 
was  the  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Rio  Grande,  the  walls  of  which 
tower  two  thousand  feet  above  the  water.  To  the  east  the  cir- 
cled tops  of  the  Chisos,  or  Ghost  Mountains,  glistened  in  the 
western  sun,  like  the  pearly  points  of  a  coronet. 

"Sixty  miles  away  to  the  north  stood  up  the  square,  mesa- 
like  top  of  Santiago  Peak,  which  can  be  seen  from  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad,  between  Marathon  and  Alpine.  This  peak 
towered  among  the  plains  and  smaller  hills  around  it  like 
Saul  among  his  brethren.  I  had  often  fancied  that  it  was  a 
relic  of  the  Cretaceous  age,  eroded  by  centuries  of  rain  and 
storm,  from  a  large  mesa  to  a  narrow,  flat-topped  peak,  and 
left  on  guard  by  the  convulsions  of  nature  like  the  Roman  sen- 
tinel of  Pompeii. 

"I  had  pictured  to  myself  that  the  very  name  Santiago 
must  have  come  down  from  some  adventurous  hidalgo  of 
the  old  Spanish  times,  when  the  Spaniards  had  carried  their 
crosses  and  monons  to  the  Indians  of  the  wilderness,  in  search 
of  the  fabulous  Eldorado ;  so  I  turned  to  our  guide  and  said 
to  him: 

"  'Natividad,  how  does  yonder  peak  get  its  name  of  San- 
tiago ?' 

"Now,  Natividad  had  a  face  like  his  deer-skin  jacket,  in 
color  and  texture.  The  wind  and  sun  for  sixty  years  had  been 
tanning  and  hardening  and  dressing  its  surface,  until  by  no 
possibility  could  any  passion  throw  the  red  blood  to  the  outer 
part  of  the  epidermis.  Of  men's  usual  facial  expression  there 
was  only  one  left — a  pair  of  keen  black  eyes,  under  shaggy 
eyebrows,  and  a  few  archaic  wrinkles  about  his  mouth,  which 
showed  on  duty  feebly  when  he  attempted  to  laugh,  but  it 
seems  to  me  that  Nature,  with  a  view  to  compensation,  had 
given  to  his  crown  of  red  hair  a  sort  of  limited  expression, 
and  that  it  grew  deeper  or  lighter  according  to  the  varying 
emotions  that  might  move  the  soul  inside  that  deerskin  mask. 

"At  my  question,  his  eyes  flashed,  the  archaic  wrinkles 
deepened,  and  even  his  poll  seemed  to  flush  a  deeper  red,  as 
he  replied,  'Senor,  that  peak  was  named  after  my  uncle.' 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  79 

"Pride  was  plainly  visible  even  in  his  voice,  and  one  might 
think  from  his  manner  that  he  considered  the  peak  to  owe  its 
notoriety  and  possibly  its  dimensions  to  the  fact  that  it  was 
named  after  his  uncle ! 

"It  was  patent  at  once  that  one  of  Natividad's  stories  lay 
ahead  of  me,  so  I  said  to  him,  'Very  well,  as  soon  as  we  get  into 
camp  you  shall  tell  it  to  me/ 

"The  jaded  burros  were  set  in  motion  along  the  trail, 
down  the  hill,  and  soon  we  were  setting  up  our  night  camp  in 
a  diminutive  park  near  the  usual  tinaja — water  hole.  Then 
Natividad,  with  a  good  deal  of  importance,  made  an  unusually 
large  cigarette,  and  proceeded  thus  with  his  story : 

"  'Sefior,  my  uncle  Santiago  was  a  great  man  of  war  when 
he  lived  in  Presidio  del  Norte,  many  years  ago.  When  the 
Indians  raided  or  killed  any  of  the  Nortenos,  as  we  call  the 
people  of  Presidio  del  Norte,  it  was  my  uncle  who  must  lead 
in  the  pursuit.  He  had  led  the  chase  after  Apaches  into  their 
rancherias  near  where  Fort  Davis  now  stands,  and  fought 
the  Comanches  on  their  retreat  into  the  stately  plains  beyond 
the  Rio  Pecos. 

"  'So  when  the  Indians  came  in  the  dead  of  night  and  took 
away  the  horses  of  Gregorio  Jiminez,  from  the  corral  at  his 
very  door,  it  was  to  my  uncle  that  Gregorio  went  to  help  him 
on  the  trail;  and  my  uncle  Santiago  gathered  five  men,  and, 
with  Gregorio,  took  up  the  pursuit. 

'  'The  trail  led  to  the  east,  and  it  was  at  first  thought  the 
Indians  must  be  the  Apaches  from  the  Chisos  Mountains,  but 
on  the  second  day  it  turned  again  to  the  north  and  began  to 
point  toward  the  great  peak  that  was  afterwards  named  after 
my  uncle. 

"  'By  this  time  they  had  learned  from  the  signs  around  the 
camp-fires  left  by  the  Apaches,  that  it  was  a  small  party, 
and  the  Nortenos  pushed  on  the  pursuit  rapidly.  On  the  even- 
ing of  the  fourth  day,  the  signs  were  plain  to  my  uncle  that 
they  were  close  upon  them,  s6  they  camped  early  and  sent  out 
two  scouts,  who  located  the  Indian  camp  just  about  dark. 

"  'Very  early  the  next  morning,  my  uncle  and  his  men  sad- 


80  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

died  up  their  horses  and  rode  until  the  scouts  of  the  evening 
before  told  them  that  they  were  near  the  Indian  camp.  The 
Nortenos  then  dismounted,  tied  their  horses,  and  took  their 
way  silently  and  cautiously  on  foot.  Light  was  breaking  in  the 
east,  and  by  it  they  saw  a  small  smoke  from  the  Indian  camp 
fires,  and  made  out  a  small  cavallado  of  horses  on  a  hill  about 
a  mile  to  the  east.  Very  quietly,  the  Nortenos  slipped  up  an 
arroyo  and  soon  reached  a  point  where  they  could  see  six 
Indians,  eating  a  breakfast  of  horse  meat. 

"  'At  a  word  from  my  uncle,  the  Nortenos  fired  upon  them, 
and  killed  three  of  their  number;  the  others  ran  away.  My 
uncle  did  not  follow  them  for  he  was  an  old  Indian  fighter 
and  knew  that  they  must  get  back  to  their  horses.  As  the 
Nortenos  started  back  to  their  horses,  they  heard  a  shot  and 
yell  of  an  Indian  from  the  hill  to  the  east,  where  they  had  seen 
the  cavallado  of  horses,  and  they  caught  glimpses  of  an  Indian 
riding  furiously  toward  them. 

"'The  Nortenos  had  barely  mounted  their  horses,  when 
this  Indian  came  riding  at  them,  yelling  and  shooting,  and 
followed  at  a  distance  by  three  others,  on  foot.  By  his  actions 
he  showed  that  he  meant  to  kill  or  be  killed. 

"  'Now,  the  Nortenos,  Senor,  are  not  bred  to  that  kind  of 
fighting,  so  they  began  to  ride  away — quite  rapidly — all  except 
my  uncle  Santiago,  who  was  shooting  at  the  charging  Indian. 

"  'But  all  at  once  he  fell  from  his  horse,  shot  through  the 
hips,  and  at  the  Indian's  mercy.  As  the  Indian  rode  up  to 
give  my  uncle  his  death  wound,  the  Nortenos  heard  him  call 
out,  "Santiago," — for  the  Indian  must  have  known  my  uncle 
— "why  do  you  cry?  You  have  killed  three  of  our  side, 
while  you  have  lost  only  one  of  your  own?" 

"  'With  that  he  killed  my  uncle,  then  rode  away  with  the 
other  Indians,  and  they  were  never  seen  again.  But  I  feel  it 
now  to  explain  to  you,  Senor,  that  the  Indian  did  not  put  the 
matter  fairly  about  my  uncle,  for  he  did  not  cry  only  because 
one  of  his  side  was  killed,  but  because  he  had  to  be  that  one. 

"'The  Nortenos  buried  him  there  at  the  foot  of  the  great 
mountain,  and  put  up  over  him  a  monument  of  stones,  and 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  81 

called  the  peak  by  his  name.  When  I  now  go  by  that  pile  of 
stones  I  pick  up  a  stone  and  add  to  the  pile,  saying  as  I  do  so : 
"Do  you  still  weep,  my  uncle,  for  that  one  of  your  side  who 
was  lost  in  the  fight  ?" 

"  'Only  the  priest  says  that  my  uncle  has  long  since  ceased 
to  cry,  as  his  soul  is  among  the  blessed  who  have  died  for  the 
Faith  among  the  heathen.  Surely  he  knows,  for  did  not 
Gregorio  Jiminez  pay  him  to  say  masses  for  the  soul  in  pur- 
gatory, and  did  not  I,  twenty  years  afterwards,  pay  him  again 
to  say  more  masses ;  for  Gregorio  was  a  poor  man,  Senor,  and 
I  feared  he  had  not  paid  the  priest  enough  to  get  my  uncle's 
soul  entirely  out/ 

"After  the  burros  were  watered,"  continued  Judge  Wil- 
liams, "we  returned  to  the  camp,  where  we  found  supper  about 
ready.  When  supper  was  over  some  of  the  Mexicans  pro- 
ceeded to  set  a  sotol  on  fire,  and  as  fast  as  the  fire  from  one 
burned  low,  another  was  lighted.  The  heat  was  great  and  the 
green  leaves  of  the  crown  popped  like  the  report  of  guns. 
While  this  was  going  on  I  reminded  Natividad  of  his  promise 
to  relate  more  of  his  legendary  history,  and,  after  seating 
himself  comfortably  on  an  aparajo,  or  pack  saddle,  he  began 
another  story. 

"'Senor,  my  grandfather  was  a  soldier  of  Spain,  born,  I 
have  been  told,  in  Estremadura.  That  must  be  a  country  of 
fair-skinned  men,  because  from  my  grandfather  I  inherit  my 
red  hair.  You  hardly  ever  find  it  in  this  country ;  on  account 
of  it,  the  Comanches  called  me  Pyote,  the  Mexicans,  Alasan, 
while  you  Americans  call  me  Sorrel  Top. 

"  'My  grandfather  was  sent  to  serve  in  Mexico,  and,  after 
a  time,  came  to  the  old  presidio  of  San  Carlos,  just  across  the 
Rio  Grande  from  us,  in  Chihuahua.  The  presidio  was  built 
as  an  outpost  against  the  Indians  of  the  north,  the  Apaches, 
Comanches,  and  Lipans,  and  at  that  time  was  far  out.  My 
father  married  there/ 

"Here  followed  the  history  of  his  grandfather's  life,  his 
father's  life,  and  that  of  sundry  relations,  told  in  excruciating 
detail,  but  he  finally  came  to  his  own  life." 


82  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

"  'Here  in  San  Carlos  I  was  born,  and  raised  among  wild 
Indians,  many  of  whom  lived  temporarily  in  and  about  the 
presidio.  When  a  tribe  was  in  danger  from  their  enemies,  they 
would  promise  to  be  good  to  our  people  of  the  town  and  not 
rob  or  kill  any  of  them,  no  matter  what  they  might  do  to  other 
people,  and  we  would  let  them  live  among  us.  I  remember  the 
time  when  six  kinds  of  Indian  people  lived  among  us.  They 
were  the  Comanches,  Kiowas,  Apaches  Mescaleros,  Apache 
Gilenos,  Rayados,  and  Cionabos.  So  I  grew  up  to  know 
many  Indians,  and  could  even  speak  in  Apache. 

"'My  most  intimate  friend  among  the  Indians  was  an 
Apache  boy,  named  Guero  Carranza,  who  afterwards  became 
a  great  brave  among  the  Mescaleros,  and  stole  horses,  took 
scalps,  and  did  other  meritorious  actions  more  than  any  other 
man  in  his  tribe. 

"  'Guero,  you  know,  Senor,  among  us  means  a  light-skinned 
person.  This  boy  was  the  lightest  colored  Indian  I  ever  saw, 
and  maybe  he  prided  himself  on  it.  At  any  rate  he  was  always 
very  partial  to  the  white  people,  and  in  his  later  years  he  be- 
came so  much  so  as  to  prefer  the  scalp  of  a  white  man  to  that 
even  of  a  dreaded  Comanche.  So  he  was  always  a  great 
friend  of  mine  and  often  told  me  what  a  pretty  scalp  I  had. 
After  he  had  left  us  and  had  gone  back  to  his  people  in  the 
Chisos  Mountains,  along  the  Tas  Linga  Creek,  which  you 
Americanos  call  Terlingua  Creek,  he  sent  for  me  to  come 
and  visit  him.  I  went  up  in  the  mountains  and  stayed  with  him 
for  some  time. 

"  'We  hunted  the  cimarron — the  big  horned  sheep — in  the 
Grand  Canyon,  and  the  oso  prieto — the  black  bear — in  the 
Chisos  Mountains.  From  him  I  learned  to  strike  a  fire  out 
of  the  dried  bloomstalk  of  the  sotol,  by  whirling  the  sharp 
point  of  the  chaparro  pinto  in  the  pith  of  the  sotol-stalk  until 
it  took  fire.  There,  too,  I  learned  to  eat  the  powdered  flour 
of  the  sotol.  I  learned  how  easily  one  could  go  into  a  bear's 
cave  and  kill  the  brute  with  a  knife  as  it  rushed  out.  And, 
Guero  showed  me  the  mescal  and  told  me  how  the  wise  men 
and  warriors  had  mescal  feasts  every  year,  when  they  went 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  83 

away  to  themselves  in  the  mountains  and  dreamed  dreams  and 
had  talks  with  the  spirits,  while  under  the  spell  of  the  potent 
plant.  The  mescal  was  always  roasted  some  time  before  the 
fiesta  and  laid  away  in  dry  places  to  wait  the  time. 

"'Something  of  this  I  one  day  saw.  Guero  and  I  were 
hunting  a  black-tail  deer,  which  he  had  wounded  with  his  ar- 
row. We  became  separated  and  I  lost  the  trail.  So  I  went 
up  on  the  top  of  a  high  mountain  to  look  for  him.  While 
up  there,  I  saw  some  Indians  in  a  glen  below  me,  and  as  their 
number  and  their  quietness  aroused  my  curiosity,  I  carefully 
slipped  down  the  mountain  side,  until  I  got  to  a  place  where  I 
could  easily  watch  them. 

*  'They  were  sitting  in  a  circle  on  the  ground  and  were 
quiet  and  motionless.  I  watched  them  for  a  long  time  and  was 
getting  tired  and  about  to  go  away,  when  I  saw  one  of  them 
rise  and  go  to  a  cave  at  the  foot  of  the  high  rock  on  which 
I  was  lying.  In  a  few  moments  he  came  back,  carrying  a 
basket  of  willow  bark,  in  which  were  a  number  of  roundish 
black  things  which  I  .took  to  be  the  roasted  mescals.  Without 
a  word  he  offered  this  basket  in  turn  to  each  Indian,  who 
took  out  one  mescal,  and  slowly  ate  it,  while  the  basket  was 
returned  to  the  cave.  Not  a  word  was  spoken,  and,  after 
waiting  a  long  time  to  see  something  more,  I  became  tired 
and  silently  slipped  away. 

"  'When  I  found  Guero  again  I  told  him  what  I  had  seen. 
He  was  very  much  interested  and  told  me  never  to  tell  anyone, 
at  any  time,  what  I  had  seen;  that  the  spirits  would  be  very 
angry  with  me  and  do  me  great  harm;  and  that  I  had  better 
go  back  to  my  home  at  once. 

"'I  never  was  much  afraid  of  Mexican  spirits,  Sefior,  ex- 
cept when  they  came  along  in  the  shape  of  custom-guards,  in 
the  days  when  I  was  smuggling;  but  I  was  not  acquainted 
much  with  Indian  spirits,  so  I  went  back  home  and  kept  my 
peace  for  many  years.  But  the  Indians  have  departed  this 
country  long  ago  and  have  taken  their  spirits  with  them,  so 
it  comes  that  I  tell  you,  to-night,  Sefior,  how  it  happens  that  I 
know  that  the  Apaches  called  the  cactus  mescal.' " 


84  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 


CHAPTER  VII 

Up  to  the  time  of  the  war  between  the  United  States  and 
Mexico,  the  Big  Bend  had  been  but  little  visited  by  American 
whites.  Their  coming  marked  an  epoch  in  the  history  of  the 
country  and  brought  about  a  change  in  conditions.  After 
years  of  struggle,  it  was  possible  for  this  oldest  settled  country 
in  the  United  States  to  come  into  its  own. 

The  events  leading  up  to  this  change  of  conditions  were 
caused  primarily  by  the  successful  termination  of  Texas*  fight 
for  freedom  against  Mexican  misrule,  and,  later,  the  admission 
of  Texas  into  the  Union.  The  difficulty  between  the  United 
States  and  Mexico  was  over  the  western  boundary  of  the  new 
state.  Texas  claimed  the  Rio  Grande  as  her  western  boundary, 
while  Mexico  claimed  the  Nueces  River.  The  struggle,  which 
culminated  in  the  victory  of  the  United  States  Army,  in  1847, 
resulted  in  fixing  the  Rio  Grande  as  a  permanent  boundary; 
and  thus  the  Big  Bend  was  brought  under  the  sovereignty  and 
protection  of  the  United  States.  This  step  called  this  wild 
country  to  the  attention  of  white  pioneers,  and  as  a  result  the 
actual  settlement  by  Americans  began. 

The  first  organized  company  of  Americans  to  enter  the  Big 
Bend  was  a  troop  of  the  Ninth  Dragoons,  who  crossed  this 
region  in  1847,  on  their  way  to  reinforce  General  Fremont,  in 
California.  A  year  later,  actual  settlers  began  to  come.  These 
settlers  had  gone  to  Chihuahua  City,  by  way  of  the  Santa  Fe 
Trail,  which,  since  1822,  had  been  in  operation,  with  only  a 
broken  interval  during  the  Mexican  War. 

A  party  headed  by  John  W.  Spencer  followed  the  trail  of 
the  early  explorers  up  the  Conchos  River,  to  its  junction  with 
the  Rio  Grande,  and  entered  the  old  presidio  of  Del  Norte,  in 
the  early  part  of  1848.  About  the  same  time  came  Ben  Leaton, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  85 

John  Burgess,  and  John  Davis.  These  men  formed  the  nucleus 
of  an  American  colony  on  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Grande,  and 
exerted  great  influence  over  that  and  adjoining  territory. 

After  a  short  stay  in  Presidio  del  Norte,  Spencer  crossed 
the  river  and  founded  the  present  town  of  Presidio,  Texas. 
This  land  he  bought  from  four  or  five  Mexican  families  whom 
he  found  living  there.  The  titles  to  this  property  were  held 
under  Spanish  land  grants,  dated  1832.  Spencer  immediately 
located  the  land  under  the  Texas  Settlement  Law,  and  started 
to  lay  the  foundation  of  a  fortune  which,  in  later  years,  reached 
substantial  proportions. 

The  only  connection,  in  1848,  that  the  Presidio  colony  had 
with  the  outside  world  was  through  Chihuahua  City.  Mer- 
chandise had  to  be  freighted  to  Chihuahua  over  the  Santa  Fe 
Trail,  and  back  up  the  Conchos  River  to  Presidio.  By  1849, 
the  emigrants  had  opened  an  important  trail  between  San 
Antonio  and  what  is  now  El  Paso.  This  formed  one  of  the 
great  arteries  which  fed  the  gold-fields  of  California. 

At  the  time  of  the  "gold  rush,"  the  War  Department  insti- 
tuted a  number  of  surveys,  in  order  to  determine  the  most 
suitable  route  for  travel,  from  the  eastern  portions  of  the 
United  States  to  the  newly-settled  territory  of  California. 

The  West  Coast  country  was  being  settled  rapidly.  The 
War  Department,  in  order  to  test  the  feasibility  of  such  a 
course,  ran  preliminary  surveys  through  and  parallel  with 
the  Rio  Grande  Valley,  to  ascertain  the  best  route  for  a  trans- 
continental railway.  In  1849,  Lieutenants  N.  Michler,  W.  H. 
C.  Whiting,  F.  T.  Bryan  and  Wm.  F.  Smith  were  detailed  for 
this  work,  under  Brevet  Colonel  Joseph  E.  Johnston,  of  the 
Topographical  Engineers. 

These  several  surveys  covered  a  period  of  five  years,  and 
Major  W.  H.  Emory  summed  up  briefly  the  result,  in  1854, 
while  he  was  determining  the  United  States-Mexico  boundary, 
in  conjunction  with  the  Mexican  Commission.  "The  reports 
from  the  War  Department  clearly  demonstrate  the  practica- 
bility of  a  railway  route  through  the  newly  acquired  territory 
and  goes  to  confirm  the  opinion,  heretofore  expressed  by  me, 


86  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

that  it  is  the  most  practicable,  if  not  the  only  feasible  one,  by 
which  a  railway  can  be  carried  across  the  Sierra  Nevadas 
and  its  equivalent  ranges  to  the  south."  Thus,  a  third  of  a 
century  before  the  Southern  Pacific  came  into  existence,  the 
idea  of  a  railway  was  conceived. 

These  military  explorations,  under  command  of  the  above- 
named  engineers,  entered  the  Big  Bend  at  two  points  on  the 
Pecos  River:  one,  at  the  crossing  near  the  junction  of  Live 
Oak  Creek  and  the  Pecos ;  the  other,  at  the  famous  Horse-head 
Crossing.  Both  of  these  crossings  were  Indian  highways, 
and  had  become  historic.  Over  Live  Oak  Crossing,  de  Vaca 
had  followed  his  barbaric  guides  on  his  journey  through  the 
Big  Bend;  and  over  Horse-head  Crossing,  the  Comanche 
hordes  passed  to  and  from  their  raiding  trips  into  Mexico. 

At  the  time  of  these  military  explorations,  the  Pecos  River, 
though  insignificant  in  size  and  importance,  defined  sharply 
the  eastern  limits  of  the  Big  Bend.  No  traveler,  upon  reaching 
its  banks,  would  by  any  chance  mistake  it  for  another  stream. 
With  the  exception  of  a  few  well-known  fords,  animals  could 
not  with  safety  approach  it  for  water,  so  steep  were  its  banks 
and  so  swift  its  current.  Only  the  catfish  inhabited  its  depths ; 
and  the  antelope  and  wolf  alone  visited  its  desolate  banks. 
Even  the  Indians  avoided  it. 

Great  must  have  been  the  wonder  of  the  engineers  when 
they  first  beheld  Comanche  Springs.  For  four  days  the  party 
had  traveled  steadily  away  from  the  Pecos,  across  the  great 
limestone  plateau,  barren  and  devoid  of  game.  There  had  been 
but  one  break  in  the  monotony  of  the  landscape — Escondido 
Springs,  which  received  its  name  from  the  fact  that  the  In- 
dians attempted  to  hide  it  from  travelers.  Out  of  this  desert 
they  came  suddenly  upon  the  great  springs,  around  which  the 
bleaching  bones  of  thousands  of  animals  showed  it  to  be  a 
favorite  Indian  camping-place.  Indeed,  these  springs  were 
the  cross-roads  of  the  Southwest.  At  this  time,  however,  they 
bore  the  name  of  Ahuache  Springs,  Ahuache  meaning  water, 
in  the  language  of  that  tribe.  As  the  Comanche  Indians  were 
driven  westward  by  the  settlers,  the  Apaches  were  in  turn 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  87 

driven  westward  by  the  Comanches,  until  this  tribe  occupied 
the  great  plateau  country  west  of  the  Pecos,  including  the 
great  springs.  As  the  Comanches  were  "horse-back"  or  plains 
Indians,  they  made  no  effort  to  encroach  upon  the  mountain 
retreats  of  their  inveterate  enemies,  the  Apaches. 

About  nine  miles  west  of  Comanche  Springs,  the  engineers 
came  upon  Ojo  de  Leon.  These  water-holes  were  remarkable 
for  their  great  depth,  and  for  the  peculiarity  of  the  soil  sur- 
rounding them.  The  soil  was  a  dull  gray  volcanic  ash,  and 
the  cavities,  or  gashes,  from  which  flowed  the  large  bodies  of 
artesian  water,  possibly  were,  ages  before,  the  outlets  for 
pent-up  internal  fires.  Many  travelers  camped  at  these  water- 
holes  in  preference  to  Comanche  Springs;  and  it  was  the 
misfortune  of  one  wagon-master  to  pay  dearly  for  his  knowl- 
edge of  their  depth.  Upon  reaching  the  ojos,  "eyes"  or  holes, 
he  removed  a  wagon-wheel,  which  had  almost  rattled  to  pieces, 
and  cast  it  in  the  largest  water-hole,  for  the  purpose  of  swelling 
the  spokes  tighter  in  the  hub.  Down,  down  went  the  wheel, 
disappearing  from  the  sight  of  the  astonished  wagon-master; 
and  although  he  fished  for  it  with  a  grappling-hook,  he  never 
recovered  it.  Having  no  extra  wheel,  he  fastened  a  drag-pole 
under  the  axle,  and  in  this  manner  completed  the  journey  to 
Paso  del  Norte,  a  distance  of  two  hundred  and  seventy  miles ! 

After  leaving  Ojo  de  Leon,  the  party  began  to  see  lofty 
mountains,  the  first  on  their  trip,  and  after  traveling  forty 
miles,  they  entered  Limpia  Canyon.  The  limestone  formation, 
so  much  in  evidence  around  Comanche  Springs,  disappeared, 
and  the  hills  presented  a  somber  appearance  from  the  dark 
rocks  of  the  primitive  formation.  So  wide  was  the  canyon 
that  it  might  be  termed  a  valley,  and  the  hills  on  either  side 
were  clothed  in  verdure.  After  the  engineers  had  progressed 
up  Limpia  Canyon  fifteen  miles,  the  valley  terminated  in  Wild 
Rose  Pass,  with  walls  of  vertical  rocks  rising  up  a  thousand 
feet  above  their  heads.  Several  years  later  in  this  rugged  spot, 
while  driving  the  first  mail  coach  which  ran  between  San  An- 
tonio and  El  Paso,  Big  Foot  Wallace  drew  rein  to  shoot  a 
large  buck  deer  that  he  saw  grazing  on  the  mountain-top. 


88  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

At  the  crack  of  the  rifle  the  buck  plunged  over  the  cliff  with 
a  rock-slide  following  in  his  wake.  He  rolled  down  the  moun- 
tain, and  brought  up  under  the  dancing  feet  of  Wallace's  thor- 
oughly frightened  stage-mules.  To  one  of  the  stage  guards, 
Big  Foot  remarked :  "Them's  the  first  mountains  I  ever  seen, 
whur  the  game  comes  to  heel  after  being  killed." 

The  mountains  of  the  Davis  Range  do  not  form  a  single 
continuous  ridge,  but  rise  in  irregular  order,  mountain  on 
mountain,  and  peak  on  peak,  covering  an  immense  extent  of 
country,  and  forming  innumerable;  small  and  shaded  valleys, 
deep  canyons,  and  ravines,  that  wind  in  a  circuitous  course 
around  the  base  of  the  mother  range.  The  country,  viewed 
from  the  top  of  one  of  the  highest  mountains,  presents  in 
every  direction  hills  of  pristine  grandeur,  and  countless  as 
the  billows  of  the  ocean.  Far  and  near,  these  thousand  single 
conical  mountains  rise,  intersecting  each  other  at  their  base 
or  higher  upon  their  sides,  and  they  would  have  formed  an  im- 
passable barrier  had  not  some  convulsion  of  Nature  opened 
the  pass  and  canyon  through  which  the  trail  ran. 

The  next  camp  on  the  trail  was  Painted  Comanche  Camp, 
which,  in  1854,  became  Fort  Davis.  At  the  time  the  engineer- 
ing party  reached  this  point  on  the  Limpia,  and  a  little  distance 
up  stream  from  their  camping-place,  there  was  growing  a 
small  field  of  corn,  planted  by  Indians,  and  along  the  banks 
of  the  creek  were  some  of  their  lodges,  constructed  of  willow 
sticks,  bent  in  the  form  of  an  arc,  and  interlaced  at  the  top. 
The  general  custom  of  the  Apaches  was  to  construct  their 
lodges  in  this  manner.  As  the  Indians  fled  from  their  village 
on  the  approach  of  the  engineers,  no  attempt  was  made  to  iden- 
tify the  tribe.  Doubtless,  they  were  Mescalero  Apaches. 

The  first  sufficient  water  supply  beyond  the  Limpia  was 
found  at  Smith's  run,  an  arroyo  which  flows  through  Captain 
J.  B.  Gillett's  Barrel  Springs  Ranch,  twenty-five  miles  west 
of  Fort  Davis.  At  this  point  the  trail  led  near  the  apex  of 
Davis  Mountains — Mount  Livermore.  From  there  the  road 
ran  by  El  Muerto,  or  Dead  Man's  Hole,  although  at  this  time 
these  springs  had  not  received  their  sinister  name.  From 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  89 

this  point,  the  road  left  the  Davis  Mountains  and  crossed  the 
great  Van  Horn  Flats  for  a  distance  of  sixty  miles,  to  Eagle 
Springs,  in  the  Eagle  Mountains. 

From  Eagle  Springs,  the  trail  ran  near  the  Eagle  Moun- 
tains, until  it  crossed  the  Devil's  Back  Bone,  to  the  plains  be- 
yond, and  ran  thence  towards  the  chain  of  mountains  that  rise 
near  the  Rio  Grande  Valley. 

The  bottom  lands  of  the  Rio  Grande  Valley,  on  the  Amer- 
ican side,  for  a  distance  of  fifty-five  miles,  to  the  lower  end  of 
Fabens  Island,  were  in  many  places  very  fertile.  The  trail 
crossed  over  a  shallow  ford  to  the  Island  and  passed 
through  the  villages  of  San  Elceario,  Socorro,  and  Ysleta. 
At  this  point,  it  recrossed  to  the  mainland  and  con- 
tinued to  the  intersection  of  the  Santa  Fe  Trail,  opposite  Paso 
del  Norte,  at  the  ranch  of  Ponce  de  Leon,  which  is  to-day  mod- 
ern El  Paso.  The  distance  from  San  Antonio  was  six  hundred 
and  seventy-three  miles. 

In  this  same  year,  1849,  another  survey  was  run  from  San 
Antonio  to  El  Paso,  which,  instead  of  crossing  the  Pecos 
River  and  passing  through  the  Davis  Mountains,  skirted  the 
Pecos  River  up  to  Delaware  Creek,  where  it  turned  westward 
to  the  foot  of  Guadalupe  Peak,  passed  by  the  Hueco  Tanks, 
and  from  there  down  to  Paso  del  Norte ;  and,  while  this  route 
was  some  twenty-five  miles  shorter  than  the  Davis  Mountains 
route,  still  the  lack  of  water  was  such  that  it  was  not  recom- 
mended by  the  engineers. 

For  a  time  there  were  hopes  that  a  shorter  route  would  be 
established,  parallel  to  the  whole  length  of  the  Rio  Grande, 
from  Eagle  Pass  to  El  Paso.  No  less  an  authority  than  Colonel 
Joseph  E.  Johnston  suggested  this  route ;  his  reason  being  first, 
the  enormous  cost  of  transporting  supplies  to  the  outposts  on 
or  near  the  upper  Rio  Grande;  and  second,  a  road  near  the 
river  would  facilitate  the  settlement  of  the  valley  of  the  Rio 
Grande,  which  he  considered  the  most  extensive  tract  fit  for 
settlement  west  of  the  Devil's  River.  So  slight  was  the  knowl- 
edge of  the  Rio  Grande  possessed  by  the  engineers  of  1850 
that  Colonel  Johnston  suggested,  as  being  practicable,  the  use 


90  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

of  navigation  to  facilitate  communication  between  posts  situ- 
ated on  its  banks. 

But  on  account  of  topographical  difficulties  encountered  at 
many  points  along  the  Rio  Grande,  in  the  Big  Bend,  this  idea 
was  abandoned.  Therefore,  we  find  that  the  Davis  Moun- 
tains route  was  adopted  as  the  permanent  military  road,  as 
well  as  the  overland  mail  route,  across  the  Big  Bend. 

These  reconnaissance  parties  were  not  the  first  to  put 
wagons  over  this  trail,  as  emigrants  had  already  begun  their 
westward  march.  Still,  from  the  reports  of  these  parties,  the 
military  authorities  mapped  out  their  future  course  of  action 
in  Southwest  Texas. 

Prior  to  the  Mexican  War,  military  posts  had  been  advanced 
far  enough  in  the  Indian  country  to  afford  only  a  limited 
amount  of  protection  to  the  settlers.  A  more  extensive  system 
was  required.  The  defensive  warfare  against  the  Indians, 
heretofore  carried  on  by  the  War  Department,  had  proved 
inadequate.  It  now  became  necessary  to  establish  strongly 
garrisoned  posts  in  the  heart  of  the  Indian  country,  from 
which  aggressive  campaigns  could  be  inaugurated  against  the 
red  marauders,  either  to  teach  them  a  respect  for  the  Govern- 
ment forces,  or  to  exterminate  them. 

The  line  of  posts  recommended  by  the  engineers  extended 
from  the  Red  River  to  the  Rio  Grande,  in  the  Big  Bend.  The 
policy  of  small,  fixed  garrisons  of  infantry  had  proved  a 
failure.  For  these  heavily  armed,  foot  troops,  it  was  recom- 
mended that  cavalry,  lightly  armed  and  well  mounted,  should 
be  substituted.  Being  located  near  the  rancherias,  these 
mounted  troops,  upon  the  first  sign  of  unrest  of  ambitious 
warriors,  could  quell  the  war-party  before  they  had  time  to 
strike  the  settlements.  Thus,  the  troops  would  become  a 
preventive,  rather  than  a  doubtful  cure. 

It  was  not  until  four  years  later,  however,  that  these  recom- 
mendations were  acted  upon.  And  until  that  time,  the  sole 
protection  of  settlers  and  travelers  lay  in  their  strength  of 
numbers.  Unfortunate,  indeed,  was  the  white  party  whose 
trail  crossed  that  of  a  superior  force  of  Indians. 


CHARLES  MULHERN 
Of  Fort  Davis 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  91 

The  population  of  the  Southwest  grew  rapidly,  as  a  result 
of  the  explorations  in  1849.  This  growth  was  supplemented 
by  the  great  number  of  emigrants  to  the  California  gold-fields, 
who  had  already  become  wearied  with  the  hardships  and  dan- 
gers of  the  Big  Bend.  Alarmed  by  this  new  encroachment 
of  the  whites,  the  Indians  prosecuted  their  warfare  with  in- 
creased fury.  It  was  impossible  to  bring  these  deluded  people 
to  a  sense  of  their  weakness  compared  with  the  power  of  the 
United  States,  except  by  severe  chastisement,  which  could  not 
be  effected  without  carrying  the  war  into  their  homes  and 
mountain  fastnesses.  For  the  same  reason,  the  United  States 
could  not  comply  with  the  eleventh  article  of  the  Treaty  of 
Guadalupe  Hidalgo,  which  guaranteed  Mexico  relief  from  the 
depredations  of  Indians  belonging  in  the  United  States. 

The  military  force  in  the  West  was  inadequate  to  under- 
take a  general  war  promising  success.  Supply  depots  and 
posts  had  to  be  advanced.  At  the  same  time,  the  chain  of 
posts  then  in  existence  had  to  be  maintained  to  prevent  the 
enemy  from  getting  into  the  rear  of  the  more  advanced  posts, 
thus  exposing  the  frontier  settlements  to  Indian  massacre 
and  destruction. 

Surely,  the  United  States  was  a  nation  powerful  enough 
and  possessed  superiority  sufficient  in  point  of  numbers  and 
necessary  supplies  to  carry  out  this  objective.  It  was  not  a 
good  policy  for  the  Government,  while  possessed  of  such 
advantages,  to  place  itself  on  an  equality  with  the  Indians; 
and  when  the  great  number  of  valuable  lives,  both  in  the  settle- 
ments and  in  the  army,  were  considered  risked  and  jeopardized, 
because  they  could  not  enforce  a  reign  of  peace,  it  became  evi- 
dent to  the  most  pronounced  jingoist  at  Washington  that  steps 
should  be  taken  by  which  the  Indians  would  be  compelled  to 
respect  our  Government. 

The  delay  in  taking  the  proper  steps  to  effect  this  object 
could  be  traced  to  a  desire  on  the  part  of  the  Government  to 
effect  an  agreement  with  the  State  of  Texas,  regarding  a 
proper  boundary  between  the  settlements  and  the  Indians.  In 
this  manner  the  Indian  tribes  infesting  the  Big  Bend  would 


92  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

be  placed  on  the  same  footing  as  those  of  the  North  and  North- 
west ;  thus  .they  would  be  brought  under  the  protection  and 
sovereignty  of  the  United  States.  To  do  this  required  con- 
siderable time,  and,  even  then,  complete  success  was  not  to  be 
expected  immediately  in  regard  to  the  Mexican  situation.  In 
the  latter  case  the  number  of  posts  had  to  be  increased  on  the 
Rio  Grande.  At  a  point  on  this  river,  in  the  Big  Bend,  opposite 
San  Carlos,  which  was  the  key  to  the  country  in  Mexico  called 
Bolson  de  Mapimi,  there  would  have  to  be  a  strong  garrison ; 
and  further  up  the  river,  at  Presidio,  Texas,  another  garrison. 
It  was  necessary  to  strengthen  these  positions  sufficiently  to 
permit  an  active  force  to  be  in  the  field,  constantly  operating 
against  the  roving  bands  of  thieves  and  murderers,  who  knew 
no  difference  between  American  and  Mexican  property,  ex- 
cept that  they  could  plunder  with  greater  safety  in  Mexico. 

It  was  strongly  recommended,  in  the  event  of  a  boundary 
being  thus  established  for  the  Comanches  and  Apaches  in  the 
Big  Bend,  that  these  Indians  should  be  subsidized,  receiving 
annuities  as  in  the  case  of  the  northern  tribes,  because  they 
actually  did  not  have  the  means  of  subsistence  unless  they 
continued  their  thieving  practices  and  followed  the  mustangs — 
droves  of  wild  horses — which  were  to  them  what  the  buffalo 
was  to  the  Indians  east  of  Pecos.  Otherwise,  if  they  were 
kept  from  stealing  and  plundering  on  American  soil,  these 
Indians  would  be  necessarily  forced  into  Mexico, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  93 


CHAPTER  VIII 

In  the  year  1850,  the  troops  in  Texas  were  more  like  an 
army  in  the  field  in  active  war  than  in  garrison.  The  regular 
force  had  been  increased  by  an  auxiliary  volunteer  force  and 
had  been  furnished  supplies,  with  extensive  means  of  trans- 
portation, both  public  and  private,  and  with  horses  to  mount 
a  portion  of  the  foot  soldiers,  but  the  territory  of  the  Big 
Bend  was  so  vast  that  troops  employed  for  its  defense,  as  well 
as  the  defense  of  the  trains  which  supplied  the  various  posts 
on  the  frontier,  had  to  traverse  routes  so  long  and  so  entirely 
unimproved  that  the  expense  of  transportation  and  all 
supplies  was  extremely  heavy.  In  order  to  facilitate  troop 
movements  and  those  of  supplies,  engineers  detailed  for  that 
work  constructed  good  roads  between  the  frontier  posts  and 
those  posts  and  accessible  points  on  the  coast  and  rivers. 

It  has  been  previously  mentioned  that  Indian  relations  in 
Texas  were  in  an  awkward  and  embarrassed  state.  In  Texas 
there  were  no  enforced  laws  which  regulated  the  trade  and 
intercourse  with  the  Indian  tribes,  nor  could  there  be  without 
the  consent  of  the  State  of  Texas.  The  same  unfortunate  con- 
dition existed  in  Texas  that  existed  in  New  Mexico,  and  the 
same  remedial  measures  were  equally  necessary  in  the  two 
cases.  It  was  true  that  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States 
gave  Congress  the  power  to  regulate  commerce  with  Indian 
tribes,  but  without  the  faithful  co-operation  of  not  only  the 
state  government,  but  also  the  several  groups  of  settlers  and 
pioneers  adjacent  to  the  territory  occupied  by  the  Indians,  it 
was  a  difficult  matter  to  exercise  rightfully  this  power  to  punish 
citizens  of  the  state  for  trespassing  on  lands  occupied  by  In- 
dians, or  trading  with  them,  unless  licensed  by  the  Govern- 
ment. It  would  have  been  wisdom  on  the  part  of  the  Texas 
state  government  to  have  given  the  Federal  Government 


94  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

absolute  authority  in  these  matters.  It  was  necessary  to  assign 
the  Indians  to  a  suitable  country,  exclusively  their  own  and 
remote  from  white  population.  By  doing  so,  arrangements 
could  have  been  made  for  regulating  trade  and  intercourse 
with  them,  and  other  measures  adopted  for  their  gradual  civ- 
ilization and  improvement. 

That  these  measures  were  not  adopted  proved  costly  and 
disastrous  to  the  western  part  of  Texas.  In  this  year,  1850, 
the  Indians  seemed  to  be  in  a  better  mood  to  enter  into  amicable 
arrangements  with  the  Government ;  but  the  delay  and  uncer- 
tainty displayed  by  the  officials,  aroused  the  Indians*  suspicions 
that  such  delays  were  brought  about  for  the  purpose  of  matur- 
ing some  plan,  or  occasion,  to  their  disadvantage  or  injury. 
Indians  were  exceedingly  jealous  and  selfish,  as  well  as  decep- 
tive, yet,  strange  to  say,  there  was  nothing  that  they  abhorred 
more  in  a  white  man  than  like  characteristics. 

The  plan  was  conceived  and  carried  out  to  appoint  five 
agents  for  the  five  following  tribes:  Southern  Comanches, 
Mescalero  Apaches,  Navajos,  Utahs,  and  Northern  Apaches, 
or  Jacarillas.  Likewise,  the  President  appointed  three  com- 
missioners for  the  purpose  of  procuring  information,  collecting 
statistics  and  making  treaties  with  the  Indians  along  the  Mex- 
ican border.  This  was  the  first  consolidated  effort  made  by 
the  Government  to  solve  the  Indian  problems  along  the  Mex- 
ican border,  and  attempt  to  alleviate  the  sufferings  of  the 
whites  and  Mexicans,  caused  by  incessant  Indian  depredations. 

When  the  early  Spaniards  entered  the  Big  Bend  and  New 
Mexico,  they  found  dwelling  in  houses  of  adobe,  numerous 
Indian  tribes  who  farmed  by  irrigation.  They  were  the  Pueblo 
Indians,  receiving  their  name  from  the  fact  that  they  dwelt 
in  pueblos  or  villages.  They  lived  mainly  along  the  banks  of 
the  upper  Rio  Grande,  but  extended  as  far  down  as  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Conchos  River  and  Rio  Grande.  In  later  years, 
this  Indian  practically  disappeared  from  the  neighborhood  of 
the  Conchos  River,  but  from  the  El  Paso  Valley  up  to  the 
head  waters  of  the  Rio  Grande  they  remained  in  large  numbers. 
In  time  they  became  a  peaceable,  honest,  and  industrious  peo- 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  95 

pie,  possessed  of  many  of  the  rights  of  citizenship,  and,  in 
1850,  they  numbered  about  seven  thousand.  They  owned  the 
best  farms  under  cultivation  in  the  country,  and,  while  their 
land  came  into  their  possession  through  legal  grants  from  the 
Spanish,  and  later  Mexican  Government,  for  some  years  tres- 
passes and  encroachments  upon  these  lands  had  been  com- 
mitted by  Mexicans.  This  was  but  one  of  the  thousand  per- 
plexing problems  which  the  United  States  had  to  solve  after 
the  war  with  Mexico.  These  pueblos  were  divided  into  three 
districts,  and  three  agents  were  appointed,  whose  duties  were 
to  adjudicate  claims  and  furnish  these  Indians  with  counsel 
in  their  fight  to  retain  their  lands.  In  return  for  this  assistance, 
the  Pueblos  became  the  scouts  for  military  parties  in  their 
chase  of  the  wild  tribes. 

A  policy  was  inaugurated  to  have  delegates  from  each  of 
these  wild  tribes  go  to  Washington,  in  order  to  give  these  dis- 
tant savages  some  idea  of  the  strength  and  power  of  the  Gov- 
ernment. It  was  wisely  decided  that,  could  the  Indians  obtain 
a  correct  knowledge  of  the  power  which  they  were  fighting, 
they  would  have  a  better  disposition  to  enter  into  formal  stipu- 
lations and  would  observe  better  faith  in  the  execution  of 
their  treaties. 

In  connection  with  this,  neither  superintendents,  Indian 
agents,  nor  former  commissioners  could  be  effective  without 
the  presence  and  co-operation  of  a  strong  and  active  military 
force. 

Contrary  to  previous  suggestions,  and  at  the  same  time 
showing  that  the  Government  officials  had  gained  knowledge 
from  their  experience  in  Indian  warfare,  it  was  decided  that  a 
force  of  volunteers,  as  well  as  regular  troops,  should  be  placed 
in  the  field.  These  volunteers  were  composed  of  those  hardy 
and  adventurous  pioneers  and  mountain  men  who  were  to  be 
found  upon  the  frontier,  and  were  commanded  and  officered 
by  men  well  acquainted  with  Indian  character  and  warfare. 
In  the  main,  these  officers  were  vigilant,  prompt,  and  ener- 
getic, undaunted  by  any  difficulties  or  obstacles,  and  pursued 
the  Indians  to  their  mountain  haunts  and  wild  retreats  with 


96  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

the  result  that,  sooner  or  later,  they  visited  upon  the  savages 
the  punishment  so  richly  deserved.  So  long  had  the  Govern- 
ment delayed  this  punishment  that  the  Indians  believed  they 
could  commit  any  depredation  with  impunity ;  and  it  was  very 
hard  to  bring  them  to  the  point  where  they  desired  to  make  a 
treaty.  Naturally,  in  a  country  which  was  so  rapidly  being 
settled,  the  number  of  outrages  increased  in  proportion.  In 
carrying  out  this  new  policy,  however,  the  Government  was 
able  to  check  the  Indians  at  comparatively  small  cost,  without 
having  to  institute  a  warfare  of  extermination. 

It  was  but  natural  where  raiding  was  so  frequent  that 
the  Indians  should  obtain  a  great  many  captives.  Out  of  this 
condition  grew  a  trade  which  the  Government  found  necessary 
to  suppress.  The  trading  in  captives  had  been  so  long  tolerated 
in  the  Big  Bend  and  other  portions  of  the  West,  that  it  had 
ceased  to  be  regarded  as  wrong,  and  the  traders,  both  Mexican 
and  American,  who  purchased  these  unfortunate  people  refused 
to  release  them,  without  adequate  ransom.  It  was  necessary  to 
bring  strong  legislation  to  bear  in  suppressing  this  nefarious 
trade,  and  a  limit  was  placed  upon  the  expenditures  incurred 
in  releasing  captives.  Unless  the  Mexicans  were  paid  for  such 
captives,  few  of  them  would  have  been  released.  And  it  was 
found  that  it  did  not  answer  to  allow  captives  to  make  their 
choice  in  the  matter  of  releasing,  for  their  submission  to  their 
masters  was  almost  perfect,  and  by  them  were  instructed  to 
make  proper  replies  to  interrogatories. 

In  order  to  observe  proper  economy  in  gaining  the  release 
of  captives,  arrangements  were  made,  through  authorized 
Mexican  agents  who  resided  along  the  border,  that  these  cap- 
tives should  be  returned  early  to  Mexico.  An  effort  was  made 
to  make  a  similar  treaty  with  the  Apaches  and  Comanches,  by 
which  the  Indians  would  be  required  to  deliver  up  all  captives, 
free  of  charge,  and  all  stolen  property  in  their  possession. 
This,  however,  failed,  except  when  it  suited  the  convenience 
of  the  Indians.  The  handling  of  these  captives  naturally 
entailed  upon  the  Government  considerable  expense. 

As  is  very  often  the  case,  the  Government  and  the  settlers 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  97 

worked  at  cross  purposes.  An  instance  of  this  was  the  atti- 
tude of  the  settlers  when  a  Mexican  killed  an  Apache  family. 
Whether  the  Mexican  was  justified  in  slaying  the  Indians,  is 
not  known;  but  a  quotation  from  the  report  of  the  Indian 
Agent  will  make  clear  the  opposing  views  taken  by  that  official 
and  the  local  inhabitants: 

"The  Mexican  who  caused  the  murder  of  the  Apache 
Indians,  has  been  in  prison  here  for  the  last  three  days,  and 
will  be  set  at  liberty  upon  a  mere  nominal  recognizance.  The 
demoralization  of  society  here  is  such  that  it  would  be  impolitic, 
if  not  altogether  impracticable,  to  administer  justice  in  this 
case.  A  considerable  sum  of  money  has  been  subscribed  to 
procure  a  gold  medal,  to  be  presented  to  this  cold-blooded 
murderer,  and  this  is  done  chiefly  by  Americans." 

In  the  light  of  subsequent  events,  the  circumstances  sur- 
rounding this  killing  might  not  be  the  crime  which  the  official's 
report  seemed  to  make  of  it.  The  Indian,  with  eighteen  or 
twenty  others,  appeared  at  the  house  of  the  Mexican,  and 
begged  or  demanded  food.  In  either  case  it  meant  the  same. 
Possibly,  the  Mexican  had  suffered  at  the  hands  of  the  Indians 
at  some  former  time  and  took  advantage  of  this  occasion  to 
retaliate.  That  the  Americans  applauded  his  act  was  but  natu- 
ral at  a  time  when  the  Apache  name  struck  terror  to  every 
heart. 

The  Government  had  succeeded  in  establishing  a  number 
of  traders'  reservations  and  at  various  times  granted  annuities 
to  the  border  tribes.  This,  of  course,  was  when  the  Indians 
had  made  a  temporary  peace.  From  these  reservation  Indians, 
the  war  trails  in  the  Big  Bend  were  largely  recruited.  One  of 
the  reasons  for  this  was  a  general  dissatisfaction  caused  by  the 
Indian  agents  withholding  portions  of  the  Indians'  annuities  to 
satisfy  damage  claims  brought  against  them  by  white  claimants. 
It  had  been  a  practice  of  the  War  Department  for  years  to 
adjudicate  and  allow  claims  against  the  Indians,  and  retain 
portions  of  the  annuities  to  satisfy  the  claimants.  These  claims 
were  generally  allowed  upon  ex  parte  statements  of  the  whites, 
thus  giving  the  Indian  no  opportunity  for  defense.  It  too 


98  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

frequently  happened  that  the  Indians  received  the  first  informa- 
tion of  the  existence  of  claims  against  them  from  the  agents, 
or  sub-agents,  when  their  annuities  were  about  to  be  paid. 
They  were  then  told  that  a  certain  sum  of  their  money  had 
been  retained  and  paid  over  to  individuals  who  presented  claims 
of  a  national  character  against  them,  at  Washington. 

It  was  useless  for  the  Indians  to  protest  against  this,  or 
deny  the  justness  of  the  claims.  The  only  satisfaction  they  had 
was  the  poor  one  of  abusing  the  Government  and  its  officers. 
Justly,  they  claimed  that  the  whole  amount  of  their  annuities 
should  be  fairly  and  honestly  paid  over  to  them  and  let  them, 
in  the  tribal  or  individual  capacity,  settle  with  their  creditors. 

There  is  no  question  that  ordinarily  this  course  would  have 
been  advisable,  but  it  is  doubtful  if  it  would  have  in  any  way 
bettered  the  character  of  the  Indians.  Such  a  course,  how- 
ever, would  have  decreased  the  practices  of  Indian  traders  in 
crediting  the  Indians  until  after  their  return  from  a  raid,  gener- 
ally in  Mexico,  as  it  would  be  at  their  own  risk  and  with  the 
full  knowledge  of  the  fact  that  they  must  look  only  to  the 
Indians  for  payment.  The  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs, 
Mr.  J.  S.  Calhoun,  was  of  the  opinion  that  all  claims  against 
the  Indians,  either  tribal  or  individual,  should  have  been  pre- 
sented in  the  Indians'  country,  at  the  time  their  annuities  were 
being  paid.  This  would  have  given  the  Indians  an  opportu- 
nity to  produce  testimony  against  any  claim  they  might  pro- 
nounce as  fraudulent  or  unjust  Should  the  officer  making 
the  payment  be  convinced  that  the  claim  was  just  and  the 
Indians,  notwithstanding,  refused  to  pay  it,  then  it  was  that 
officer's  duty  to  report  all  the  facts  of  the  case  to  the  War 
Department  for  its  future  action. 

As  a  basis  of  his  opinion,  Mr.  Calhoun  claimed  that  no 
department  of  the  Government  had  the  legal  power  to  take  one 
dollar  out  of  the  Indians'  annuities  for  any  purpose  whatever, 
without  their  knowledge  or  consent,  as  among  all  laws  or  regu- 
lations treaty  stipulations  were  paramount.  On  the  other  hand, 
if  the  Department  had  the  authority  which  so  long  had  been 
exercised  over  the  Indians'  annuities,  then  the  treaties  with 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  99 

these  Indian  tribes  were  nothing  more  than  "scraps  of  paper." 
As  an  example,  Mr.  Calhoun  cited  our  treaty  stipulations  with 
Mexico,  by  which  the  United  States  pledged  her  national  faith 
and  honor  to  pay  Mexico,  in  the  shape  of  annuities,  fifteen  mil- 
lions of  dollars,  the  price  of  lands  ceded  by  her  to  the  United 
States.  The  Commissioner  stated  that  our  Government  had 
no  legal  right  to  take  any  portion  of  this  money  to  pay  over 
to  merchants,  or  other  American  citizens,  who  may  have  had 
claims  against  the  Republic  of  Mexico,  or  the  citizens  thereof. 
And  if  our  Government  had  no  authority  in  the  one  case,  he 
could  not  understand  why  it  had  in  the  other. 

Commissioner  Calhoun's  opinions  were  upheld  by  several 
prominent  legal  authorities,  who  contended  that  the  Indians 
had  a  right  to  require  the  Government  of  the  United  States  to 
refund  every  dollar  that  had  not  been  paid  in  accordance  with 
their  treaty  stipulations.  Had  the  Indians  been  of  a  nature 
which  enlisted  sympathy,  and  had  they  been  inclined  to  accept 
the  changing  order  of  conditions  and  meet  the  march  of  civiliza- 
tion with  an  effort  to  better  their  condition,  they  doubtless 
would  have  received  at  least  a  partial  refund  of  these  misappro- 
priated annuities.  But  their  acts  of  atrocity  and  their  continual 
breaking  out  in  predatory  warfare  brought  down  upon  them 
the  wrath  of  the  Nation  and  caused  them,  whether  justly  or 
unjustly,  to  lose  the  territory  for  which  they  so  stubbornly 
fought 

The  best  manner  of  controlling  the  various  Indian  tribes 
which  came  under  the  guardianship  of  the  United  States  upon 
the  annexation  of  Texas  and  the  treaty  with  Mexico,  was  a 
problem  which  could  not  be  easily  solved ;  indeed,  it  never  was 
successfully  solved,  except  by  the  natural  conditions  arising 
from  increased  settlement  of  the  West  and  the  gradual  decline 
of  the  Indians'  strength  by  the  ravages  of  smallpox  and  other 
diseases,  and  through  their  losses  sustained  in  almost  con- 
tinuous warfare.  It  was  estimated  that,  in  1850,  the  Indians  in 
the  Southwest  numbered  one  hundred  and  twenty-four  thou- 
sand. Many  of  the  tribes  thus  brought  under  our  control  were 
of  fierce  disposition  and  predatory  in  their  habits,  and  it  was 


100  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

difficult  to  restrain  them  from  committing  outrages  upon  the 
persons  and  property  of  the  inhabitants,  in  the  Big  Bend  and 
New  Mexico,  as  well  as  in  Mexico  proper.  The  step  taken  by 
Congress  to  appoint  agents  to  take  charge  of  the  numerous 
tribes,  whereby  necessary  and  satisfactory  information  could  be 
obtained  respecting  their  conditions  and  wants,  did  much  to 
alleviate  the  sufferings  of  the  settlers,  but  failed  to  furnish  a 
remedy. 

This,  however,  could  apply  only  to  the  American  settlers. 
The  Indians  appear  to  have  been  the  natural  enemy  of  the 
Mexicans,  for  the  Indians  killed  the  Mexicans  wherever  they 
were  found,  and  frequently  for  no  possible  reason.  The  Mexi- 
cans had  such  a  dread  of  Indians,  that  they  never  stood  their 
fire,  but  ran  at  the  very  first  indication  of  their  presence.  For 
the  previous  two  years  the  Indians  had  been  very  troublesome 
to  the  Mexicans  and  had  appeared  in  large  bodies  as  far  south 
as  Durango.  To  fight  a  party  of  some  two  hundred  Indians, 
who  were  in  the  neighborhood,  the  military  commander  of 
Chihuahua  hired,  at  an  extravagant  compensation,  a  company 
of  Americans,  who  were  on  their  way  to  California.  This 
occurred  at  a  time  when  there  was  stationed  in  that  city,  a  large 
garrison  of  Mexican  regulars,  and  several  thousand  citizens 
capable  of  bearing  arms. 

The  attitude  of  the  Indians,  toward  the  Americans  in  the 
United  States,  became  even  more  hostile ;  because  they  consid- 
ered it  an  overt  act  on  the  part  of  the  Americans  in  Mexico,  in 
thus  interfering  with  their  rights  to  plunder  Mexico.  But  the 
United  States  authorities  could  make  no  appeal  to  the  Mexican 
authorities  to  prevent  this  body  of  Americans  from  meddling 
in  Mexico.  Each  Mexican  state  made  its  separate  treaties  with 
the  Indian  tribes,  which  harassed  them,  and  often  this  treaty 
was  made  at  a  considerable  disadvantage  to  a  sister  state.  At 
this  time,  large  bodies  of  men  could  cross  and  re-cross  the 
International  Boundary  without  meeting  challenge  from  cus- 
tom officers  or  troops  of  either  nation. 

Owing  to  this  newly-disturbed  condition,  traveling  was 
rendered  extremely  dangerous,  and  immigration  in  the  Big 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  101 

Bend  was  almost  entirely  arrested.  The  United  States  forces 
stationed  in  the  Indian  country,  represented  a  large  portion  of 
our  standing  army.  Most  of  these  troops  were  infantry,  which 
could  only  guard  a  certain  locality  and  were  never  able,  through 
lack  of  horses,  to  pursue  Indians  for  the  purpose  of  punishing 
them.  This  gave  rise  to  the  necessity  for  more  cavalry,  which 
did  not  arrive,  however,  until  the  following  year. 

On  the  part  of  the  settlers,  many  complaints  had  been  made 
against  the  United  States  Government  for  neglecting  to  extend 
to  the  inhabitants  a  greater  and  more  reliable  protection  than 
they  had  received.  Here,  again,  the  military  officials  and  the 
settlers  disagreed.  In  reports  made  by  commanding  officers, 
it  can  be  gathered  that  they  considered  the  complaints  ground- 
less so  far  as  the  Government  was  concerned.  They  claimed 
that  enough  troops,  if  properly  managed,  had  been  stationed 
there  to  secure  and  protect  the  people  against  all  the  Indians 
able  to  reach  that  country.  They  further  claimed  that  the  men 
who  complained  so  loudly,  were  those  who  trafficked  and  traded 
in  that  country,  and  lived  and  thrived  on  the  expenditures  of 
the  troops.  These  profiteers  cared  less  for  the  protection  of 
the  inhabitants  than  they  did  for  augmenting  and  increasing  the 
expenses  of  the  general  government  in  the  Big  Bend,  for  their 
personal  enrichment. 

These  same  military  commanders,  however,  made  a  strong 
recommendation  to  the  Government  that  by  stationing  mounted 
troops  in  close  proximity  to  the  Indian  rancherias,  a  better  state 
of  affairs  would  come  about  and  the  ravages  of  the  Indians 
would  be  lessened.  They  emphasized  the  fact,  which  later  was 
proved  true,  that  the  frontier  would  always  be  in  an  unsafe 
and  insecure  condition  until  troops  intended  for  border  service, 
instead  of  remaining  in  garrison,  would  travel  and  campaign 
over  the  country  continuously.  This  course  of  action,  they 
contended,  would  not  add  to  the  expenses  of  maintaining  the 
troops,  but,  on  the  contrary,  would  be  a  great  saving  in  many 
respects,  and  particularly  in  the  article  of  forage  for  their 
animals.  In  garrison,  this  forage  consisted  mainly  of  wheat, 
hauled  at  a  great  expense,  from  Chihuahua  or  Presidio  del 


102  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Norte ;  or  of  prairie  hay,  the  cutting  of  which  was  contracted 
at  high  prices,  to  private  individuals  or  concerns. 

It  was  maintained  that  until  some  such  course  was  adopted, 
no  reliable  state  of  safety  or  security  from  Indian  depredations 
could  be  expected,  owing  to  the  precarious  and  uncertain  state 
of  feeling  and  disposition  of  the  uncivilized  and  untamed  sav- 
age, whose  chief  and  sole  ambition  was  to  plunder  and  destroy 
his  fellowman.  It  would  be  more  to  the  welfare  of  the  troops, 
watching  and  observing  the  Indians,  for  them  to  travel  about 
the  mountains  and  over  the  plains,  where  game,  grass  and  pro- 
tection for  man  and  horse  were  to  be  found,  than  for  them  to 
remain  in  the  garrison  the  whole  time,  subject  and  liable  to 
arrests  and  punishments,  which  are  invariably  brought  upon  a 
soldier  through  idleness  and  dissipation. 

Just  the  reverse,  however,  were  the  existing  conditions, 
which  was  the  secret  of  their  inefficiency  and  inability  to  keep 
in  check  a  few  wretched  savages.  The  life  of  the  garrisons 
was  not  at  all  calculated  to  improve  the  soldiers,  either  physically 
or  morally.  The  most  ruinous  vices  of  savage  and  civilized 
man  were  practiced  around  them,  without  even  the  check  of 
public  opinion  to  disapprove  or  condemn  such  conduct.  What 
service  then,  from  the  military  point  of  view,  could  possibly 
be  expected  from  men  habituated  for  years,  or  even  for  months, 
to  such  a  life? 

There  was  no  desire  on  the  part  of  anyone  to  disparage  the 
United  States  army.  Practically  all  of  these  troops  were  vet- 
erans of  the  Mexican  War,  in  which  they  rendered  gallant  ser- 
vice; but  the  information  which  frequently  came  from  the 
Indian  country,  and  which  was  familiar  equally  to  the  whites 
and  the  Indians,  had  an  almost  ruinous  effect  upon  the  feelings 
and  dispositions  of  the  Indians.  There  was  nothing  to  keep 
them  in  check  but  a  dread  of  the  power  of  the  United  States ; 
this  dread  they  lost  after  several  years  of  encounters  with  the 
troops. 

In  the  fall  of  1850,  J.  H.  Rollins,  Special  Indian  Agent, 
made  an  eleven  hundred  mile  trip  in  Texas,  to  meet  the  various 
Indian  tribes,  of  which  the  Southern  Comanches  were  the 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  103 

strongest,  in  order  to  make  treaties  and  bring  about  peace- 
ful relations  between  his  charges  and  the  settlers.  On  the  fifth 
day  out  from  Fort  Graham,  Rollins  found  the  Comanche  chiefs, 
Cfctnmpsey  and  Little  Wolf,  and  a  portion  of  their  people. 
These  Indians  were  at  first  greatly  frightened,  but  the  assur- 
ance that  no  violence  was  intended,  soon  removed  their  fears, 
acd  they  collected  around  Rollins  for  a  council. 

Rollins  informed  them  of  the  object  of  his  visit  and  of  their 
supposed  unfriendly  disposition  and  conduct.  The  Indians 
expressed  the  strongest  desire  to  be  considered  friends,  and 
readily  agreed  to  meet  him  as  soon  as  he  succeeded  in  finding 
Buffalo  Hump  and  Shanaco,  the  other  chiefs  of  the  Southern 
Cotnanches.  In  order  to  show  their  sincerity,  they  sent  a  young 
Comanche  captain  along  to  assist  Rollins  in  his  search  for  the 
other  chiefs — a  thing  unprecedented  among  the  Comanches. 
Three  days  later,.  Rollins  found  Buffalo  Hump  and  Shanaco, 
and  met  them  in  council. 

Rollins  explained  to  them  that  on  account  of  their  absence 
from  his  councils,  their  frequent  robberies  and  occasional  mur- 
ders, the  Government  inferred  that  they  had  abandoned  the 
treaty  of  1846,  and  decided  to  be  hostile.  The  agent  recounted 
many  reasons  that  existed  for  supposing  them  unfriendly,  and 
told  them  that  the  Government  had  determined  not  to  submit 
to  this  state  of  things  any  longer,  but  intended,  unless  satis- 
factory explanations  and  atonements  were  made,  to  make  war 
upon  them  immediately. 

Buffalo  Hump,  for  himself  and  the  other  chiefs,  replied 
that  "the  talk  was  very  good"  and  that,  although  it  was  very 
plain  and  not  the  kind  they  had  been  accustomed  to  hear,  it  was 
nevertheless  not  offensive,  and  he  believed  it  to  be  true  and 
warranted  by  the  circumstances.  He  said  there  had  been  many 
violations  of  the  treaty  on  both  sides,  and  it  was  better  either 
to  renew  and  abide  by  the  treaty  or  disregard  it  altogether. 
Buffalo  Hump  admitted  that  in  company  with  other  Indians, 
against  his  wishes  and  in  violation  of  his  express  orders,  his 
people  had  been  on  the  Rio  Grande  occasionally,  in  small  num- 
bers ;  but  that  as  some  of  them  had  been  killed,  he  hoped  that  it 


104  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

would  be  a  lesson  to  the  others.  As  an  excuse  for  these  depre- 
dations, he  said  that  he  and  his  people  generally  were  friends  to 
the  whites,  but  that  they  had  bad  men  among  them  whom  they 
could  not  control,  and  he  hoped  that  the  innocent  would  not 
be  made  to  suffer  in  common  with  the  guilty.  On  account  of 
the  difficulties  on  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  West  generally,  and 
upon  receiving  information  that  all  Indians  found  west  of 
the  Colorado  River  would  be  attacked  indiscriminately,  the 
Comanches  had  fled  to  the  Brazos  River,  where  they  were  in- 
formed there  was  no  war  and  they  would  be  safe.  Buffalo 
Hump  said  his  people  had  been  anxiously  waiting  for  some  time 
to  learn  the  disposition  of  the  Government  toward  them  and 
the  course  intended  to  be  adopted,  and  that  all  the  Southern 
Comanches  were  ready  and  anxious  to  deliberate  with  Rollins 
at  any  time  and  place  appointed  by  him. 

In  his  report,  Rollins  expressed  the  belief  that  the  Comanches 
would  meet  him  at  the  time  and  place  agreed  upon ;  but,  as  in 
many  similar  instances,  this  meeting  never  took  place,  nor  were 
the  treaties  observed,  and  in  the  year  following  the  Comanches 
resumed  their  raiding  across  the  Rio  Grande  and  harassed,  to 
the  very  doors  of  San  Antonio,  the  newly-made  Chihuahua 
Trail,  east  of  the  Pecos  River. 

Aside  from  the  warfare  of  the  Indians,  the  Big  Bend  coun- 
try was  being  slowly  settled.  The  great  emigrant  trails  swarmed 
with  caravans,  which  traveled  in  large  bodies  to  withstand  the 
Indians.  The  trend  of  emigration  was  toward  California,  but  a 
considerable  number  stopped  along  the  way,  some  at  Presidio 
del  Norte,  and  others  at  El  Paso,  or  points  in  New  Mexico. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  105 


CHAPTER  IX 

One  of  the  stipulations  of  the  treaty  of  Guadalupe  Hidalgo, 
February  2,  1848,  was  that  a  survey  was  to  be  made  to  determine 
the  United  States-Mexico  boundary.  The  members  of  the 
Boundary  Commission  began  their  work  in  1850.  The  Commis- 
sion was  given  instructions  to  examine  the  country  contiguous 
to  the  line,  with  a  view  of  ascertaining  the  practicability  of  a 
transcontinental  railway  route.  It  was  also  instructed  to  collect 
information  with  reference  to  the  agricultural  and  mineral  re- 
sources, and  such  other  conditions  as  would  give  a  correct 
knowledge  of  the. fiscal  condition  of  the  country  and  its  present 
occupants. 

Practically  all  of  the  first  three  years  of  this  work  was  in 
charge  of  John  R.  Bartlett.  At  the  end  of  that  time,  Brevet 
Major  W.  H.  Emory  superseded  Mr.  Bartlett,  and  carried  the 
work  to  its  completion. 

Bartlett  gives  an  interesting  account  of  conditions  in  the 
Big  Bend,  as  they  were  at  that  time.  The  Boundary  Commis- 
sion landed  at  Galveston,  in  August,  1850,  and  immediately 
began  employing  teamsters,  laborers,  cooks,  and  other  help 
necessary  to  carry  on  the  work.  Unfortunately,  the  quarter- 
master was  obliged  to  take  such  as  offered  themselves,  naturally 
giving  preference  to  those  who  could  produce  testimonials  of 
good  character.  Many  of  these  had  been  formerly  in  govern- 
ment employ,  and  came  well  recommended ;  but  there  were  many 
others  of  questionable  character. 

The  Boundary  Commission  was  divided  into  a  number  of 
parties,  which  extended  from  California  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
Several  of  these  parties  or  trains,  reached  El  Paso  at  the  same 
time,  and  it  became  necessary  to  discharge  a  large  number  of 
men,  chiefly  teamsters.  Because  of  this,  and  the  fact  that  a 
large  number  of  emigrant  trains  bound  for  California  were  dis- 


106  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

banded  here,  a  great  many  of  the  tricksters  of  society  were  left 
stranded,  with  no  means  of  support. 

The  discharge  of  so  many  men  at  Socorro,  a  village  near  El 
Paso,  let  loose  upon  the  peaceful  inhabitants  of  that  place  a 
gang  of  outlaws,  who  by  daily  increase  of  numbers,  had  become 
so  formidable  that  no  one  was  considered  safe  beyond  the  walls 
of  his  own  house.  Several  of  these  men  actually  forced  the 
inhabitants  to  give  them  homes. 

Upon  the  arrival  of  the  main  party  of  the  Boundary  Com- 
mission, under  charge  of  Mr.  Bartlett,  a  temporary  check  was 
piaced  upon  this  band  of  gamblers,  horse  thieves,  and  murder- 
ers. The  presence  of  such  a  well-armed  force  tended  to  make 
the  outlaws  more  circumspect  for  a  time ;  but  as  the  members 
of  the  Commission  were  drafted  off  to  enter  upon  the  duties 
connected  with  the  survey,  the  outlaws  became  more  threaten- 
ing in  their  conduct.  Houses  were  opened  for  the  indulgence 
of  every  wicked  passion ;  and  each  midnight  hour  heralded  new 
riolence  and  often  bloody  scenes,  for  the  fast-filling  records  of 
crime.  The  peace-loving  Mexicans  gathered  their  little  store 
of  worldly  wealth  and,  with  their  families,  fled  from  the  rapidly 
depopulating  village.  Every  new  outrage  was  overlooked  by 
the  local  authorities.  No  one  dared  stir  from  home  without 
being  doubly  armed  and  prepared  to  use  his  weapons  at  a 
moment's  warning ;  for  the  turning  of  a  corner  might  bring  one 
face  to  face  with  the  muzzles  of  a  dozen  pistols. 

After  several  murders  had  been  committed,  the  engineers 
sent  a  note  to  the  military  commander  at  San  Elceario,  giving 
an  account  of  what  had  occurred  and  presenting  the  alarming 
condition  of  things  in  the  community.  The  messenger  returned 
with  an  answer  from  the  commanding  officer,  Major  Van  Home, 
declining  to  furnish  any  assistance,  on  the  ground  that  the  ap- 
plication should  be  made  first  to  the  civil  authorities. 

In  the  evening  a  dancing-party,  or  baile,  an  almost  nightly 
amusement  in  all  Mexican  and  frontier  towns,  was  given,  which 
as  nsual  was  attended  by  quite  a  mixed  company.  As  the  baile, 
or  fandango,  was  open  to  all,  the  gang  of  outlaws  was  largely 
represented,  and  its  members  made  themselves  conspicuous  by 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  107 

their  conduct.  Pistols  were  fired  over  the  heads  of  the  women, 
who,  in  their  alarm,  attempted  to  escape  from  the  room.  This 
was  prevented,  however,  by  confederates  stationed  at  the  door. 

At  this  stage  of  the  disturbance,  great  excitement  prevailed 
in  the  dance-hall,  and  several  outlaws  began  using  their  Bowie 
knives.  Edward  C.  Clark,  assistant  quartermaster  of  the  Com- 
mission, was  the  first  person  attacked  by  the  ruffians.  Four  of 
them  set  upon  him  with  their  knives  and  he  fell  near  the  door, 
mortally  wounded.  He  was  immediately  taken  to  the  quarters 
of  the  surgeon  of  the  Commission,  Dr.  Bigelow,  who,  on  ex- 
amination, found  he  had  received  nine  or  ten  serious  knife 
wounds  in  his  breast  and  abdomen.  Mr.  Clark  died  next  day. 
Another  man,  named  Gates,  was  wounded  by  a  pistol-shot  in 
the  leg. 

When  the  startling  announcement  was  made  that  an  officer 
of  the  Commission  had  been  foully  murdered  by  the  wretches 
who  had  already  gone  too  long  unchecked,  the  question  arose 
as  to  the  best  course  of  action  to  take. 

At  this  turn  of  affairs,  the  members  of  the  Commission  were 
moved  to  action  and  resolved  upon  a  plan  to  protect,  not  only 
their  own  lives  and  property,  but,  also,  those  of  the  dismayed 
population  about  them.  Aid  from  the  military  had  been  re- 
fused. The  alcalde  of  the  village,  a  weak  and  sickly  imbecile, 
had  transferred  his  authority  to  another,  even  more  timid  and 
less  reliable  than  himself.  Yet  this  person  was  invested  with 
the  powers  of  a  justice  of  the  peace,  and  constituted  the  entire 
civil  authority  at  Socorro. 

Messengers,  calling  for  assistance,  were  sent  to  the  main 
body  of  the  Commission,  at  San  Elceario.  The  call  was  promptly 
answered  and  in  three  hours,  a  party  of  Americans  and  Mexi- 
cans was  formed.  They  hastily  secured  arms,  and,  with  the 
members  of  the  Commission,  proceeded  at  once  to  Socorro. 
Strengthened  by  these  reinforcements,  the  citizens  divided  into 
small  parties  and  began  a  systematic  search  to  ferret  out  the 
murderers.  Every  house  was  examined,  and  eight  or  nine  per- 
sons arrested ;  but  Alexander  Young,  the  ring  leader,  could  not 
be  found. 


108  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

The  outlaws  caught  in  the  drag-net,  were  immediately  con- 
ducted by  an  armed  force  to  the  house  of  Justice  Berthold, 
where  a  court  to  suit  the  emergencies  of  the  case,  was  instituted. 
Jurors  were  summoned  and  sworn  in ;  a  prosecuting  attorney 
named,  and  counsel  offered  to  the  prisoners.  This  offer  they 
declined,  treating  the  whole  matter  as  a  jest,  and  making 
facetious  remarks  about  their  condition.  The  prisoners  were 
under  the  impression  that  nothing  could  be  done  with  them,  and 
that  they  could  easily  swear  themselves  out  of  the  difficulty. 
The  examinations  were  conducted  with  propriety,  and  the 
prisoners  made  to  keep  silence  by  the  resolute  demeanor  of  the 
citizens. 

In  selecting  the  jury,  six  jurors  were  taken  f  r6m  the  Mexi- 
can citizens  of  Socorro  and  six  from  the  Boundary  Commis- 
sion, as  there  were  no  other  Americans  in  the  place. 

The  trial  took  place  in  one  of  the  adobe  houses,  which  was 
dimly  lighted  from  a  single  small  window.  Scarcely  an  indi- 
vidual was  present  who  had  not  the  appearance  and  garb  of  men 
who  spend  their  lives  on  the  frontier,  far  from  civilization  and 
its  softening  influences.  Surrounded,  as  they  were  by  savage 
Indians  and  constantly  mingling  with  half-civilized  and  renegade 
men,  it  was  necessary  for  citizens  to  go  constantly  armed.  No 
one  ventured  forth  a  half  mile  from  home  without  first  putting 
on  his  pistols,  and  many  carried  them  upon  their  persons,  even 
when  within  their  homes.  But  at  the  trial,  circumstances 
rendered  it  necessary  that  all  should  be  armed,  for  safety,  as 
well  as  for  the  purpose  of  thwarting  any  attempt  on  the  part  of 
the  outlaws  to  free  their  comrades  from  the  grip  of  the  law. 
There  sat  the  judge,  with  a  pistol  lying  on  the  desk  before  him; 
the  clerks  and  attorneys  wore  revolvers  at  their  sides ;  and  the 
jurors  were  either  armed  with  similar  weapons  or  carried  with 
them  an  unerring  long-rifle. 

The  members  of  the  Commission  and  citizens,  who  were 
either  guarding  prisoners  or  protecting  the  Court,  carried  by 
their  sides  a  revolver,  a  rifle,  or  a  shot-gun ;  thus  presenting  a 
scene  more  characteristic  of  feudal  times  than  of  the  Nineteenth 
Century.  The  fair  but  sunburnt  complexion  of  the  American 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  109 

portion  of  the  jury,  with  their  weapons  resting  against  their 
shoulders  and  with  pipes  in  their  mouths,  presented  a  striking 
contrast  to  the  swarthy  features  of  the  Mexicans,  muffled  in 
checkered  scrapes,  or  the  conventional  capote, — cape  cloak — 
and  holding  their  broad-brimmed,  glazed  hats  in  their  hands, 
while  between  their  lips  rested  delicate  cigarritos. 

The  reckless,  unconcerned  appearance  of  the  prisoners, 
whose  unshaven  faces  and  disheveled  hair  gave  them  the  ap- 
pearance of  Italian  banditti,  rather  than  of  Americans;  the 
grave  and  determined  bearing  of  the  jury ;  the  varied  costumes 
and  expressions  of  the  spectators,  clad  in  scrapes,  blankets,  or 
overcoats,  with  their  different  weapons,  and,  generally  with 
long  beards,  formed  altogether  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
groups  that  ever  graced  a  court-room. 

Two  days  were  occupied  in  the  examination  and  trial,  for 
the  one  immediately  followed  the  other.  In  the  meantime,  a 
military  guard  of  ten  men  had  been  sent  promptly  by  Major 
Van  Home,  upon  a  request  from  Mr.  Bartlett ;  so  that  the  open 
threats  which  had  been  made  by  the  prisoners  during  the  first 
day  of  the  trial  were  no  longer  heard.  They  now  saw  that  the 
strong  arm  of  the  law  would  triumph. 

All  fairness  was  shown  to  the  outlaws,  and  on  the  second 
day,  a  member  of  the  Commission  was  requested  to  act  as  their 
counsel.  His  efforts,  however,  to  prove  an  alibi,  to  impeach 
the  testimony  of  the  witnesses  for  the  prosecution,  or  to  estab- 
lish the  previous  good  character  of  the  defendants,  proved 
futile.  The  prisoners  were  then  heard  in  their  defense,  but 
they  could  advance  nothing  beyond  the  mere  assertion  of  their 
innocence.  At  the  close  of  the  testimony,  an  attempt  was  made 
by  the  friends  of  the  prisoners  to  postpone  the  trial  for  the  pur- 
pose, as  they  stated,  of  obtaining  counsel  and  evidence  from 
El  Paso.  But  the  Court  had  been  appraised  of  the  existence 
of  a  plot  to  attempt  a  rescue  that  night,  and  accordingly  the 
request  was  refused. 

The  evidence  being  closed,  a  few  remarks  were  made  by  the 
prosecuting  attorney,  followed  by  the  charge  of  the  judge, 
after  which  the  case  was  given  to  the  jury.  In  a  short  time, 


110  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

the  twelve  men  returned  to  the  courtroom  with  the  verdict 
of  guilty,  against  William  Craig,  Marcus  Butler,  and  John 
Wadel,  upon  whom  the  judge  then  pronounced  sentence  of 
death. 

The  prisoners  were  escorted  to  the  little  plaza,  or  open 
square,  in  front  of  the  village  church,  where  the  priest  met 
them  to  give  them  such  consolation  as  his  holy  office  offered ; 
but  the  conduct  of  these  men,  notwithstanding  the  desire  on  the 
part  of  all  to  afford  them  consolation  and  comfort,  continued 
reckless  and  indifferent,  even  until  the  last  moment.  Butler 
was  alone  affected.  He  wept  bitterly,  and  excited  much 
sympathy  by  his  youthful  appearance,  but  his  companions 
scoffed  at  him  and  begged  him  not  to  cry,  as  he  could  die  but 
once. 

The  sun  was  setting  when  they  arrived  at  the  place  of  execu- 
tion. The  assembled  spectators  formed  a  guard  around  a  small 
alamo,  or  cottonwood  tree,  which  had  been  selected  for  the 
gallows.  It  was  fast  growing  dark,  and  the  busy  movements 
of  a  large  number  of  the  condemned  men's  friends,  dividing 
and  collecting  together  again  in  small  bands,  at  different  points 
around  and  outside  of  the  party,  and  then  approaching  nearer 
to  the  center,  proved  that  an  attack  was  meditated,  if  the  slight- 
est opportunity  should  be  given.  But  the  sentence  of  the  law 
was  carried  into  effect. 

The  scene  was  of  a  character  which  the  participants  never 
again  desired  to  witness.  The  calm  but  determined  citizens  on 
the  one  side,  and  the  daring  companions  of  the  condemned  out- 
laws on  the  other,  remaining  keenly  on  the  watch  throughout ; 
the  former  for  the  protection  of  life  and  the  support  of  good 
order  in  the  community,  the  latter  with  the  malicious  eyes  of 
disappointed  and  infuriated  malcontents,  who  would  have  been 
willing  to  sacrifice  a  hundred  additional  lives,  to  rescue  their 
companions. 

Socorro  now  resumed  its  previous  quiet  and  good  order,  for 
the  authorities  had  directed  all  persons  who  were  not  con- 
nected with  the  Commission  and  who  were  without  employment, 
to  leave  the  village  within  twenty-four  hours.  This,  however, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  111 

was  hardily  necessary,  for  the  vagabonds  already  had  begun 
to  depart  and  before  the  close  of  another  day  all  had  left; 
but  before  the  indignant  populace  would  be  satisfied  there 
was  another,  the  original  leader,  who  was  yet  to  be  appre- 
hended. 

Four  hundred  dollars  was  subscribed  by  the  employees  of 
the  Commission  and  offered  as  a  reward  for  the  capture  of 
Alexander  Young.  Volunteer  parties  set  out  in  all  directions ; 
and  word  was  finally  brought  that  he  had  been  caught  further 
down  the  Rio  Grande,  at  Guadalupe. 

The  prisoner  was  brought  to  Socorro  and  placed  in  con- 
finement, well  chained  and  guarded.  The  careless,  dogged  look 
had  left  his  eyes,  and  was  replaced  by  a  supplicating  glance, 
which  plainly  told  of  a  change  within.  He  was  anxious  to  know 
if  either  of  the  three  who  had  been  executed,  had  made  a  con- 
fession. He  expressed  a  wish  to  have  a  letter  written  to  his 
mother,  who  had  not  heard  from  him  in  six  years.  The  letter 
was  written  and  the  prisoner  appeared  much  affected.  He  con- 
fessed the  truth  of  the  charges  against  him,  incriminating  clearly 
the  three  who  were  first  hanged,  besides  many  others. 

At  ten  o'clock,  the  following  morning,  the  Court  again  con- 
vened and  a  jury  was  impaneled.  The  prisoner's  confession 
was  publicly  read,  signed  by  himself,  and  witnessed  by  several 
members  of  the  Court. 

With  the  testimony  in  hand,  the  jury  could  have  returned 
a  verdict ;  but  it  was  deemed  advisable  to  present  further  evi- 
dence to  show  the  unmistakable  guilt  of  the  men  who  already 
had  been  punished.  This  was  done  for  the  reason  that  several 
persons  who  passed  for  honorable  men  were  interesting  them- 
selves in  defending  these  outlaws  because  of  what  they  called, 
humanitarian  grounds. 

The  prisoner  was  found  guilty  and  sentenced  to  hang.  That 
afternoon  he  was  taken  to  the  church,  where,  on  bended  knees 
and  with  trembling  lips,  he  made  his  final  confession,  received 
the  blessing  of  the  priest,  and  was  taken  to  the  alamo,  where 
he  was  to  be  executed.  His  last  request  was  that  he  might  be 
buried  as  respectably  as  circumstances  would  permit.  At  half- 


112  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

past  four  o'clock,  in  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day  that  the  trial 
began,  using  the  same  tree  where  the  three  others  were  exe- 
cuted, the  law  was  carried  into  effect.  Justice  was  served  with 
dispatch  in  1850. 

The  well-merited  punishment  of  these  four  men  was  loudly 
applauded  and  Justified  by  both  the  civil  and  military  authori- 
ties of  the  frontier.  Such  an  example  as  this  had  been  needed 
for  some  time.  The  vicinity  was  again  freed  from  worthless 
desperadoes ;  and  as  the  Mexican  citizens  of  the  peaceful  old 
town  of  Socorro  remarked,  "We  can  now  sit  in  the  evening  by 
our  doorsides  and  not  be  obliged  to  retire  with  the  sun,  fix  bolts 
and  bars,  and  huddle  in  corners  with  fear  and  trembling." 

While  these  examples  of  justice  served  to  promote  the  wel- 
fare of  the  people  and  to  curb  the  activities  of  the  vicious  ele- 
ments, who  naturally  resorted  to  the  settlements,  still  it  had  no 
effect  upon  the  Indian  marauders  in  the  Big  Bend.  The  rela- 
tion between  the  Indians  of  this  region  and  several  of  the  Mexi- 
can towns,  particularly  San  Carlos,  below  Presidio  del  Norte, 
was  peculiar,  and  the  source  of  considerable  worry  to  the 
United  States  and  Mexico.  The  Apaches  were  usually  at  war 
with  the  people  of  both  countries,  but  had  friendly  relations 
with  the  people  of  certain  towns,  where  they  traded  and  received 
supplies  of  arms  and  ammunition  in  exchange  for  stolen  mules 
and,  often,  captives.  This  was  the  case  with  the  people  of  San 
Carlos,  who  had  amicable  relations  with  both  the  Apaches  and 
the  Comanches ;  and  these  Indians  made  San  Carlos  a  depot  of 
arms  in  their  annual  excursions  into  Mexico. 

While  at  Presidio  del  Norte,  Major  Emory,  of  the  Boundary 
Commission,  received  authentic  accounts  of  the  unmolested 
march  of  four  hundred  Comanches,  under  Bajo  el  Sol,  through 
Chihuahua,  toward  Durango.  Chihuahua,  not  receiving  the 
protection  to  which  it  was  entitled  from  the  central  government 
of  Mexico,  had  made  an  independent  treaty  with  the  Comanches, 
the  practical  effect  of  which  was  to  aid  and  abet  the  Indians  in 
their  war  upon  Durango.  In  1851,  Bishop  Leamy,  of  Paso  del 
Norte,  upon  his  return  from  a  visit  to  the  Bishop  of  Durango, 
said  that  the  wealthy  state  of  Durango  would  soon  be  depopu- 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  113 

lated  by  the  Indians.  Within  a  few  leagues  of  the  city, 
haciendas,  that  once  possessed  a  hundred  thousand  animals, 
had  been  abandoned. 

This  condition  of  affairs,  together  with  the  three  years' 
drought,  had  brought  ruin  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  State,  and 
had  driven  them  to  unmanly  despair.  On  the  occasion  of  a 
great  fiesta,  in  the  State  of  Durango,  where  no  less  than  ten 
thousand  people  were  assembled  in  and  around  a  plaza,  the  cry 
"Los  Indies !  Bajo  el  Sol !"  was  heard.  In  a  very  short  time 
every  one  had  disappeared,  leaving  no  one  to  face  the  enemy. 
The  alarm  proved  to  be  false  on  this  occasion,  but  the  instance 
conveys  a  good  idea  of  the  general  fear  felt  toward  the  Indians 
by  the  Mexicans. 

In  the  autumn  of  1851,  Major  Emory,  with  a  small  party 
of  the  Boundary  Commission,  escorted  by  a  detachment  of 
fifteen  soldiers,  was  making  a  rapid  march  across  the  Pecos 
country.  After  being  without  water  a  considerable  time,  as 
they  approached  Comanche  Springs,  the  party  discovered  graz- 
ing near  the  springs  a  herd  of  a  thousand  horses,  divided  into 
three  different  squads,  and  held  by  Indians  just  before  the 
Springs,  on  a  small  plateau,  where  now  stands  the  business 
section  of  Fort  Stockton.  Watching  the  advancing  whites, 
thirty  or  forty  Indian  warriors  were  drawn  up.  It  looked  as 
if  a  fight  was  inevitable ;  so  without  making  a  halt,  the  men,  as 
light  infantry,  were  deployed  to  the  right  and  left  of  the 
wagons,  and  the  whole  moved  rapidly  toward  the  water.  The 
Indians  raised  a  flag,  which  was  answered  by  Lieutenant  Wash- 
ington and  two  others,  who  rode  forward.  Believing  it  to  be  a 
ruse  to  divide  his  forces  or  to  gain  time  to  deliberate,  Major 
Emory  increased  the  speed  of  the  column,  so  as  to  keep  Lieu- 
tenant Washington  under  cover  of  a  defense  fire.  In  this  way, 
the  American  party  reached  advantageous  ground  within  pistol- 
shot  of  the  water,  before  they  halted  to  parley.  A  man  was  sent 
to  the  top  of  a  large  hill,  with  a  spyglass,  to  look  back,  as  if  the 
party  was  expecting  additional  forces.  They  promptly  corralled 
their  wagons  near  the  water  and  put  themselves,  without  ap- 
pearing to  do  so,  in  a  good  position  to  fight.  They  succeeded 


114  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

in  conveying  the  idea  that  they  were  only  the  advance  guard  of 
a  large  force,  which  was  but  a  short  way  behind.  They  assumed 
the  mien  of  a  superior  party  and  camped  on  the  ground  eighteen 
hours.  The  next  day  they  moved  off  as  if  they  had  an  armed 
force  behind  them.  How  different  would  the  story  have  been 
had  the  Americans  been  Mexicans. 

The  party  were  Kioways  and  Comanches  returning  with 
nearly  a  thousand  animals,  from  a  forage  into  Mexico.  Mucho 
Toro,  the  chief  of  this  party,  who  spoke  Spanish  well,  said  he 
had  purchased  the  animals  in  Mexico,  and  that  this  was  but  the 
advance  party  of  several  hundred  warriors  who  were  close 
behind  him. 

Mucho  Toro,  in  full  dress,  paid  Major  Emory  a  visit,  on 
which  occasion  he  displayed  great  humility,  and  exhibited  con- 
spicuously upon  his  breast  an  immense  silver  cross,  which  he 
said  had  been  given  him  by  the  Bishop  of  Durango,  when  the 
chief  was  converted  to  Christianity.  He  had,  no  doubt,  robbed 
some  church  of  it.  His  features  showed  the  profile  of  the 
Mexican  Indian  peon,  but  the  warriors  he  commanded  had  the 
bold  aquiline  profile  of  the  Kioways  and  Comanches.  He  rep- 
resented a  type  of  that  class  of  Mexicans,  who,  by  affiliation 
with  the  wild  Indians,  had  wrought  such  irremediable  ruin  in 
the  northern  states  of  Mexico. 

The  Americans  desired  very  much  to  attack  Mucho  Toro's 
party,  but  their  force  was  too  small,  and  they  were  three  hun- 
dred miles  from  support.  The  next  day,  when  crossing  the 
dividing  plain  between  Comanche  Springs  and  Ojo  de  Leon, 
they  discovered  the  dust  rising  from  the  trail  coming  from  the 
south,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  They  had  just  missed 
meeting  with  Bajo  el  Sol  and  four  hundred  warriors. 

In  his  work  on  the  Boundary  Commission,  Major  Emory 
had  many  similar  adventures  with  these  Indians,  and  he  gave 
orders  that  none  should  be  allowed  to  enter  his  camp,  and  if 
they  did,  they  were  to  be  killed  at  sight.  By  taking  this  harsh, 
but  necessary  step,  he  was  one  of  the  few  persons  passing 
through  the  Big  Bend  at  this  time,  who  did  not  experience  a 
loss.  The  Mexican  Commission  was  robbed  repeatedly,  and 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  115 

upon  more  than  one  occasion  was  obliged  to  suspend  its  opera- 
tions. 

Indeed,  so  bold  had  the  Indians  become  that  they  raided  the 
Magoffin  ranch,  where  stood  old  Fort  Bliss,  and  in  plain 
view  of  the  little  settlement  of  Franklin,  or  El  Paso,  drove  off 
forty  head  of  mules. 

Much  light  is  thrown  on  conditions,  as  they  existed  in  1850, 
by  a  series  of  communications  between  several  American  and 
Mexican  officers.  At  the  time  John  W.  Spencer  settled  across 
the  River  from  Presidio  del  Norte,  Ben  Leaton  settled  a  few 
miles  below  Spencer's  ranch,  where  at  one  time  had  been  an 
old  Spanish  fort.  For  that  reason  it  was  called  Fort  Leaton ; 
today,  it  is  known  as  Old  Fortin.  Major  J.  Van  Home,  of  the 
Third  Infantry,  stationed  at  El  Paso,  received  two  communica- 
tions— one  from  Governor  Trias,  of  Chihuahua,  the  other  from 
Emilio  Laughberg,  inspector  of  military  colonies  at  Paso  del 
Norte.  These  letters  accused  Leaton  of  furnishing  the  Indians 
with  arms,  powder,  and  lead,  and  also,  of  the  purchase  of  prop- 
erty, stolen  from  the  Mexicans  by  the  Indians. 

Major  General  George  M.  Brooks,  commanding  the  Eighth 
Department,  informed  Major  Van  Home  that  steps  had  been 
taken  to  redress  this  evil.  He  was  instructed  to  inform  Gov- 
ernor Trias  of  the  difficulties  which  had  prevented  the  Gov- 
ernment of  the  United  States  from  carrying  out  faithfully  and 
honorably  the  specifications  of  the  peace  treaty  with  Mexico. 
He  was  instructed  to  say  that  the  United  States  had  most 
serious  and  grave  cause  for  complaint  against  the  high  authori- 
ties of  Chihuahua,  particularly  with  reference  to  the  employ- 
ment of  Americans  in  making  war  on  the  Apaches  and  other 
Indians,  not  only  in  Mexico,  but  on  the  territory  of  the  United 
States,  in  the  Big  Bend.  By  this  action,  the  Indians  had  been 
made  to  believe  that  the  American  Government  approved  of 
those  aggressions.  As  a  consequence  many  American  citizens 
had  been  murdered  and  robbed  by  the  Apaches  and  other 
Indians,  and  unless  parties  were  accompanied  by  expensive 
military  escorts,  traveling  in  the  Big  Bend  was  extremely 
dangerous.  Before  the  violation  of  our  soil  and  the  employ- 


116  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

ment  of  expatriated  Americans,  there  had  been  safety  as  far  as 
El  Paso,  at  least;  while  at  this  time,  all  of  the  tribes  were 
revengefully  hostile. 

Governor  Trias  made  counter-complaint  that  for  some  time 
Leaton  had  kept  an  open  treaty  with  the  Apache  Indians,  con- 
trary to  what  he  had  been  expressly  advised  to  do.  He  had  been 
repeatedly  charged  with  this  vicious  conduct,  but  it  had  been 
impossible  to  stop  it,  as  Leaton  respected  neither  the  authori- 
ties of  the  Presidio  nor  the  laws  of  his  own  country.  Governor 
Trias  presented  positive  proof  that  the  great  portion  of  this 
illicit  traffic,  in  which  Leaton  dealt,  consisted  of  selling  and  pur- 
chasing from  the  Indians  goods  and  property  stolen  by  them 
from  the  citizens  of  Mexico.  But  the  evil  consisted  not  only  in 
this,  but  in  return  for  the  plunder  he  received  from  the  Indians, 
Leaton  furnished  them  with  arms,  powder,  lead,  and  other 
articles  of  ammunition. 

Just  to  what  extent  Leaton  was  guilty,  was  not  clearly 
established.  Evidently,  the  War  Department  took  the  stand 
that  he  was  to  blame.  Leaton  was  following  the  practice  then 
customary  among  the  Indian  traders,  and  no  doubt  this  traffic 
did  encourage  Indian  depredations  on  both  sides  of  the  Rio 
Grande.  Leaton  claimed  that  for  two  years  previous  to  this, 
he  had  endeavored  to  pacify  the  Apaches  about  Presidio  del 
Norte,  and  advised  them  to  preserve  friendly  relations  with  the 
United  States ;  his  idea  being  that  an  Indian  agent  would  soon 
visit  the  settlement  and  make  a  treaty  with  them.  According  to 
his  statement,  the  causes  of  the  hostilities  with  the  Apaches 
was  a  party  of  American  outlaws  under  Glanton,  who  had  at- 
tacked the  Indians  and  killed  a  large  number  of  them.  This  was 
the  same  company  of  Americans,  Leaton  averred,  who  had 
enlisted  in  the  service  of  Chihuahua,  and  as  the  Indians  knew 
no  distinction  between  Glanton's  party  and  other  Americans, 
they  had  become  hostile  toward  all  Americans  as  well  as  toward 
him.  Leaton  contended  that,  in  many  instances,  he  had  turned 
the  Indians  from  their  purpose  of  attacking  emigrant  trains 
and  other  parties,  traveling  through  the  country. 

The  case  of  Leaton  was  but  one  of  many  which  showed  the 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  117 

inability  of  the  two  governments  to  control  their  Indian  wards. 
If  the  United  States  was  guilty  of  violating  her  treaty,  Mexico 
was  equally  guilty.  The  vacillating  policy  of  the  State  of 
Chihuahua,  whereby  they  were  at  one  moment  bribing  the 
Indians  to  keep  peace,  and  the  next  moment  hiring  American 
outlaws  at  a  compensation  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  per 
scalp,  to  slaughter  the  Indians,  did  more  than  any  other  cause 
to  stimulate  the  Indians  in  their  depredations.  Instead  of 
co-operating  with  the  American  Government,  in  an  effort  to 
control  the  Indians,  the  Mexican  Government  failed  in  every 
promise  and  threw  all  responsibility  upon  the  United  States. 


118  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 


CHAPTER  X 

The  year  1850  may  well  be  regarded  as  the  beginning  of 
that  period  in  the  history  of  the  Big  Bend,  marked  by  the  first 
footsteps  of  the  vanguard  of  civilization,  which,  in  time,  made 
the  beaten  trail  ready  for  the  future  commerce.  The  first  two 
groups  of  actors  have  been  introduced ;  their  character  and  their 
conduct  have  been  shown ;  the  stage  needs  but  to  be  set  and  the 
curtain  lifted,  to  introduce  the  characters  of  the  third  epoch  of 
the  great  historical  romance  of  the  Southwest.  The  first  two 
epochs  concerned  the  Spaniard  and  the  Mexican ;  the  third  has 
to  do  with  the  American. 

It  is  necessary  first  to  take  up  in  detail  the  nature  of  the 
country  which  comprises  the  Big  Bend,  and  outline  more  in 
detail  the  natural  causes  which  impeded  the  progress  of  ad- 
vancing civilization.  One  who  is  unfamiliar  with  this  great 
territory,  can  not  fully  appreciate  the  obstacles  which  the 
pioneers  encountered  in  making  it,  not  only  habitable,  but,  in 
time,  a  country  of  prosperous  ranches,  wealthy  communities, 
and  law-abiding  citizens.  To  accomplish  this  result,  fifty  years 
of  untiring  labor  was  required. 

The  Big  Bend  is  an  oblong  stretch  of  territory,  thirty  thou- 
sand square  miles  in  extent ;  on  the  south  and  west  is  the  Rio 
Grande ;  on  the  east  and  northeast,  the  Pecos  River ;  while  New 
Mexico  is  at  the  upper  end.  In  such  an  immense  tract,  it  is 
impossible  to  go  into  a  detailed  topographical  account,  because 
of  the  many  and  often  abrupt  changes  in  the  formation  of  the 
country.  So  isolated  has  been  this  region  and  so  different  in 
character  from  the  greater  portion  of  Texas,  that  few  realize 
the  magnificent  scenery  of  the  Big  Bend.  Hypothetical 
geography  has  been  carried  to  such  an  extent  in  information 
given  the  public  concerning  this  region,  that  the  newcomer  often 
exclaims,  "I  did  not  know  there  was  such  scenery  in  Texas !" 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY 

For  Texas  is  supposed  to  be  a  land  of  plains,  and  not  of  lofty 
mountains  and  gaping  canyons. 

In  1850,  there  were  only  two  settlements  in  the  Big  Bend, 
both  of  which  were  on  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Grande.  One  was 
the  settlement  of  Franklin,  now  El  Paso,  opposite  the  Mexican 
town  of  Paso  del  Norte,  which  to-day  is  known  as  Juarez ;  the 
other  was  opposite  Presidio  del  Norte,  the  Mexican  town  at  the 
junction  of  the  Conchos  River  and  the  Rio  Grande. 

As  all  trading  was  on  the  Mexican  side  of  the  River,  it  was 
later  in  the  fifties  that  American  settlements,  dignified  by  post 
names,  sprang  into  existence  in  this  country.  Paso  del  Norte 
and  Presidio  were  the  only  depots  of  refuge  and  supply  for 
the  travel-worn  Americans  in  this  great  region. 

The  Mexican  settlements,  however,  were  more  numerous, 
nestling  along  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Grande  wherever  the  val- 
leys were  of  sufficient  width  to  permit  farming  by  irrigation. 
The  first  in  this  line  of  villages  extending  up  the  Rio  Grande, 
and  one  of  the  oldest  Spanish  settlements  in  Northern  Mexico, 
was  Presidio  del  Norte.  In  this  particular  year,  1850,  the 
Indians  drove  off  most  of  the  cattle ;  the  drought  had  caused  a 
failure  in  the  corn  crop  for  the  previous  three  years,  and  the 
town,  isolated  from  other  settlements,  had  suffered  from  famine. 
At  Presidio,  very  little  farming  was  carried  on  by  irrigation,  as 
the  farmer  depended  upon  the  rainfall  and  the  overflow  from 
the  two  rivers. 

Presidio  del  Norte  was  an  adobe  built  town,  situated  upon 
a  gravelly  hill,  overlooking  the  junction  of  the  Conchos  River 
and  the  Rio  Grande,  then  called  Rio  Puerco,  from  the  contrast 
of  its  muddy  waters  to  that  of  the  Conchos  River,  which,  except 
during  freshets,  was  clear.  The  town  contained  about  eight 
hundred  inhabitants,  but  on  account  of  the  nearness  of  the 
great  Indian  Trail,  at  this  time  extensively  traveled  by  maraud- 
ing bands,  there  was  much  talk  of  abandoning  it. 

The  church  was  within  the  walls  of  the  presidio,  or  fort,  and 
contained  one  or  two  pictures  of  more  value  than  are  usually 
found  discoloring  the  walls  of  frontier  churches.  In  almost 
every  house  was  found,  in  addition  to  the  Cross,  a  figure  of  our 


120  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Saviour,  which  was  sometimes  so  very  grotesque  that  piety 
itself  could  not  divest  it  of  its  ridiculous  appearance.  These 
images  and  pictures,  however,  were  sources  of  comfort  and 
happiness  in  prosperity  and  adversity  to  the  simple  Mexican 
people.  They  rilled  the  imagination  and  gave  occupation  to  the 
idle.  The  padre,  who  had  charge  of  the  church  in  this  district, 
was  by  nature  intended  for  the  military  profession.  Brave, 
frank,  handsome,  and  energetic,  he  was  the  leading  spirit  in 
every  foray  against  the  Indians;  and  upon  his  person  were 
many  wounds  received  in  battle.  In  the  isolated  and  defense- 
less condition  of  the  Presidio,  he  was  the  type  of  spiritual  and 
temporal  advisor  most  needed. 

Passing  through  Presidio  del  Norte,  was  the  great  thorough- 
fare, the  Chihuahua  Trail,  which  was  destined  to  have  very 
important  bearing  on  the  settlement  of  the  Big  Bend.  Across 
the  Rio  Grande,  just  below  the  Presidio,  was  the  Spencer  farm, 
on  the  American  side,  and  six  miles  further  down,  also  on  the 
American  side,  was  Fort  Leaton,  the  home  of  the  Indian  trader, 
Ben  Leaton. 

From  Presidio  del  Norte  to  Vado  de  Piedras,  a  distance  of 
twenty-four  miles,  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  had  a  course 
from  the  northwest,  and  varied  in  width  from  three  to  four 
miles.  This  valley  was  enclosed  by  hills  on  the  American  side, 
and  on  the  Mexican  side  by  a  large  mountain  range. 

Vado  de  Piedras,  named  from  the  rock  ford  of  the  River, 
opposite  the  town,  was  a  military  colony  where  convicts  were 
kept,  and  at  this  time  contained  three  hundred  prisoners.  The 
main  building  was  a  large  cuartel,  or  barracks.  Around  the 
town  were  small  cultivated  fields,  watered  by  irrigation  and 
yielding  bountiful  crops  of  wheat  and  corn. 

From  here,  the  Rio  Grande  took  a  course  from  the  north, 
through  a  valley,  varying  in  width  from  one-half  to  one  and  one- 
half  miles,  until  Pilares,  forty-five  miles  above  Vado  de  Piedras, 
was  reached.  Pilares  was  at  one  time  a  military  colony  and 
convict  camp,  similar  to  Vado  de  Piedras ;  and  from  numerous 
signs  visible  to-day,  the  smelting  of  silver  ore  was  carried  on 
here  extensively.  This  old  presidio  was  abandoned  about  1873. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  121 

Fifty  miles  above  Pilares,  the  Rio  Grande  emerged  from  a 
narrow  valley  through  which  it  had  flowed  for  twenty-four 
miles,  and  entered  Quitman  Canyon,  where  the  El  Paso-San 
Antonio  road  left  it,  and  where  in  later  years  was  located  Camp 
Quitman. 

From  Quitman  Canyon  to  El  Paso,  a  distance  of  ninety  miles 
by  the  windings  of  the  river,  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  aver- 
aged from  six  to  ten  miles  in  width ;  and,  had  water  been  plenti- 
ful, all  of  this  fertile  valley  would  have  been  susceptible  to  cul- 
tivation. 

Before  reaching  San  Elceario,  and  on  the  Mexican  side  of 
the  Rio  Grande,  there  were  two  small  military  colonies  of  about 
five  hundred  inhabitants  each — Guadalupe  and  San  Ignacio. 
From  San  Elceario  to  El  Paso,  a  distance  of  thirty  miles  by  the 
river,  there  was  almost  one  continuous  settlement  of  Mexicans, 
Suma  and  Piro  Indians,  with  here  and  there  an  occasional 
American  farmer  or  trader. 

At  this  time,  Franklin  had  only  two  hundred  inhabitants,  and 
San  Elceario,  with  a  population  oi  twelve  hundred,  had  just 
been  made  the  country-seat  of  the  Big  Bend  district.  As  can 
be  seen  from  the  number  of  Mexican  villages  and  outposts  along 
the  Rio  Grande,  on  the  Mexican  side,  that  republic  should  have 
been  in  a  better  position  to  control  the  Indians  along  the  border 
than  the  United  States. 

The  topography  of  the  lower  country  from  Presidio  del 
Norte  to  the  Pecos  River  along  the  Rio  Grande,  was  even  more 
rugged  than  that  above.  Just  below  Fort  Leaton,  the  Bof  ecillos 
Mountains  bisected  the  Rio  Grande,  thus  forming  a  canyon 
through  which  the  River  passed.  From  there  to  the  Comanche 
Pass,  the  country  was  broken  and  very  rough.  This  pass  crossed 
the  Rio  Grande  above  old  San  Carlos,  below  which  on  the 
Mexican  side  rose  the  San  Carlos  Mountains. 

Below  San  Carlos  was  the  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Rio  Grande, 
which  forms  one  of  the  many  phenomena  occurring  in  this  land. 
In  ages  past  the  walls  of  this  canyon  had  been  a  great  lime- 
stone plain,  but  from  some  cause  a  section  twenty  miles  long 
had  been  disturbed  by  the  earth's  internal  action,  and  had 


122  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

forced  the  lower  end  of  the  plain  to  an  elevation  of  two  thousand 
feet  above  the  surrounding  country.  The  process  of  upheaval 
was  carried  on  so  slowly  that  the  Rio  Grande  was  able  to  con- 
tinue its  flow  through  the  old  channel,  cutting  deeper  into  the 
limestone  as  rapidly  as  the  plain  was  pushed  upward. 

Next  in  order  was  the  mountains  of  San  Vicente,  which  take 
their  name  from  the  old  presidio,  long  since  abandoned  by  the 
Spaniards.  From  this  point  in  the  windings  of  the  River,  lying 
some  distance  northwest  of  the  Grand  Canyon,  were  the  Chisos, 
or  Ghost  Mountains,  the  peak  of  which,  rising  seven  thousand 
eight  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet  in  elevation,  was  named 
Mount  Emory,  in  honor  of  Major  W.  H.  Emory,  of  the 
Boundary  Commission. 

Almost  directly  east  of  the  Chisos  Mountains,  after  the 
Rio  Grande  turned  its  course  northeastward,  lay  Sierra  del 
Carmen,  on  the  Mexican  side.  From  here  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Pecos  River,  the  eastern  limit  of  the  Big  Bend,  was  a  distance 
of  approximately  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles.  Here  canyon 
followed  canyon,  and  rapids,  swift  and  treacherous,  one  after 
the  other,  made  the  Rio  Grande  unfordable,  except  in  two 
or  three  places. 

J  As  can  readily  be  seen,  a  route  of  travel  along  the  Rio 
Grande  was  impracticable.  The  trail  through  the  Davis  Moun- 
tains ;  the  one  up  the  Pecos  over  the  Delaware  and  Guadalupe 
Mountains ;  and  the  Chihuahua  Trail  from  Presidio  to  Horse- 
head  Crossing,  naturally  became  the  three  main  highways  used 
by  settlers  and  emigrants.  The  two  first  named  trails  led  from 
San  Antonio,  or  other  eastern  points,  to  El  Paso.  Of  these 
two,  the  Davis  Mountains  trail  became  the  more  generally  used 
on  account  of  the  water  supply.  The  Guadalupe  trail  was  used 
but  a  few  years  and  abandoned ;  and  to-day  there  remains  but 
little  trace  of  any  habitations  along  that  route. 

These  trails  were  traversed  both  by  troops  and  by  emigrants, 
while  the  number  of  freight  outfits  was  gradually  increasing 
and  much  trade  was  being  diverted  from  the  Santa  Fe  Trail  to 
the  San  Antonio-El  Paso  Trail. 

Emigrants,  however,  were  the  travelers  who  were  subject 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  123 

to  the  most  dangers  from  Indians  and  hardships,  from  lack  of 
water,  death  of  work-stock,  and  other  misfortunes.  A  certain 
knowledge  of  conditions  was  necessary  for  an  emigrant  to  make 
a  successful  passage  across  this  vast  country.  The  best  season 
for  them  to  leave  the  eastern  sections  of  the  United  States  for 
California  by  the  Davis  Mountains,  or  southern  route,  was 
about  the  first  of  June.  There  was  then  good  grass  and  water 
as  far  as  Camp  Quitman  on  the  Rio  Grande,  which  they  could 
reach  the  last  of  July.  This  method  of  travel  gave  them  enough 
leisure  to  stop  two  or  three  weeks  for  their  animals  to  graze  and 
recuperate,  and  lay  in  additional  supplies  for  the  remainder  of 
their  journey. 

The  emigrants  soon  learned  from  experience  that  oxen  were 
the  best  kind  of  work-stock  for  the  country  over  which  they  had 
to  travel.  Before  leaving  their  starting  points  they  provided 
themselves  with  one  or  two  extra  yoke  of  oxen,  to  replace  any 
which  might  be  lost  or  stolen  on  the  way.  At  this  time  they 
used  light,  strong  wagons — much  lighter  than  the  prairie 
schooner  which  came  into  use  a  few  years  later.  They  took  with 
them  only  those  supplies  which  they  required  for  the  journey. 
These  provisions  were  wrapped  in  oilcloth  or  other  material, 
which  kept  them  from  dampness,  rain,  and  immersion  when 
deep  fords  were  crossed.  Each  wagon  carried  a  double  canvas ; 
two  water-casks  lashed  to  either  side ;  and  extra  axle,  pole,  and 
a  pair  of  hounds.  The  parties  usually  consisted  of  seventy-five 
to  a  hundred  men,  who  were  sufficient  protection  against 
Indians,  and  a  guard  for  the  herd  and  work-stock.  At  night 
the  wagons  were  arranged  in  a  circle,  forming  a  corral,  into 
which  the  work-stock  was  driven  in  time  of  danger.  While 
traveling  through  the  Indian  country,  the  emigrants  herded 
their  animals  night  and  day,  and  never  allowed  them  to  move 
from  camp  without  an  armed  guard. 

The  relative  merits  of  the  mule  and  oxen  was  a  much  de- 
bated question.  Mules  were  more  gregarious  than  oxen  and 
more  easily  herded  at  night ;  also  more  liable  to  be  stampeded. 
Sometimes  one  mule  with  his  saddle  or  harness  on,  by  suddenly 
joining  the  herd,  caused  a  stampede  of  every  animal  belonging 


124  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

to  the  train.  At  night,  an  Indian,  coyote,  or  a  horse  running  by 
was  sufficient  cause  for  the  loss  of  the  herd ;  and  once  in  the 
possession  of  the  Indians  it  could  not  often  be  regained  by  the 
pursuing  party.  On  the  other  hand,  oxen  traveled  so  slowly  that 
they  could  be  overtaken.  But  oxen  would  stray  from  the  herd, 
lie  down  in  the  bushes,  and  thus  often  be  lost.  Mules  would 
subsist  where  oxen  could  not,  and  in  mountainous  countries  they 
could  always  feed  on  the  hillsides.  Their  power  for  endur- 
ing fatigue,  hunger,  and  thirst  were  greater,  and,  particularly 
so,  when  the  marches  were  made  during  the  day.  They  re- 
quired only  one-fourth  as  much  water.  Oxen  had  the  advan- 
tage in  strength  when  it  came  to  service  in  wet,  boggy  soil, 
or  on  level  plains ;  while  the  mules  had  the  advantage  where 
the  country  was  rugged  and  there  were  many  steep  ascents. 

Generally,  when  the  emigrants  began  their  westward  jour- 
ney, their  mules  were  wild  and  unbroken.  As  native  grass 
was  their  sole  sustenance,  this  was  at  first  cut  for  them.  After 
a  few  days  on  the  trail,  they  were  hobbled  while  grazing  but  soon 
both  of  these  methods  were  abandoned  from  necessity.  During 
a  stampede,  when  the  mules  were  being  led  away  by  a  horse, 
their  flight  was  often  arrested  by  shooting  the  horse.  Horses 
were  not  permitted  to  run  loose  with  the  herd  of  mules,  for 
the  mules  would  almost  invariably  follow  them.  They  had 
such  an  attachment  for  a  horse  that  they  would  follow  wher- 
ever he  led,  and  be  governed  by  sight  of  him  or  by  sound  of  a 
bell  attached  to  his  neck. 

The  frontiersman  and  emigrant  soon  learned  to  display 
much  sagacity  in  detecting  and  reading  signs  along  the  trail, 
when  and  by  whom  made,  strength  of  the  party,  whether  they 
were  Indians,  Mexicans,  or  Americans,  and  their  direction. 
So  with  the  places  where  there  had  been  encampments ;  these, 
the  wary  traveler  on  the  trail  inspected  with  care,  to  see 
whether  friend  or  enemy  had  preceded  him.  If  they  were 
Indians,  he  would  find  wigwam-poles,  fragments  of  skins, 
deerskin  thongs,  and  beads.  A  little  experience  enabled  him 
to  distinguish  whether  the  campers  were  Comanches,  Lipans, 
or  Mescaleros.  The  principal  characteristic  was  the  form  of 

I 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  125 

their  wigwams.  The  Comanches  set  up  erect  poles ;  the  Lipans 
bent  them  over  in  circular  form ;  and  Mescaleros  gave  them  a 
low,  oval  shape.  Then,  too,  there  was  a  difference  in  their  moc- 
casins and  the  footprints  they  made.  Each  tribe  of  Indians 
had  its  particular  fashion,  which  were  chiefly  shown  in  their 
methods  of  fixing  their  hair  and  covering  their  feet.  Amer- 
ican emigrants,  or  travelers,  left  many  marks  to  indicate  their 
nationality  and  character,  such  as  scraps  of  newspaper,  bits 
of  cigars,  fragments  of  hard  bread,  pieces  of  hempen  rope, 
and  other  known  articles  of  American  manufacture.  The 
Mexicans  had  none  of  these  articles,  but  were  identified  by 
the  remains  of  cigarritos,  pieces  of  rawhide,  which  they  used 
instead  of  rope ;  or,  if  they  left  any  portion  of  their  camp  out- 
fit or  cooking  utensils,  these  differed  from  those  of  the  Amer- 
icans. The  remains  of  their  food  also  differed.  This  con- 
sisted of  tortillas,  cakes  made  of  corn  or  wheat  flour,  similar 
in  shape  to  the  American  pancake;  frijoles,  a  brown  bean; 
tamales,  minced  meat  rolled  up  in  cornshucks  and  baked  in 
cakes;  chili  Colorado,  Mexican  red  pepper;  and  dried  beef. 
If  the  Mexicans  wore  shoes,  they  were  unlike  the  American 
shoe. 

The  extent  of  the  party  was  shown  by  the  number  of  foot- 
prints. These  could  not  be  told  while  the  party  was  in  motion 
as  there  might  be  a  large  number  of  animals  driven  in  a  herd 
with  but  few  attendants ;  but  when  the  camping-place  was 
reached,  the  number  of  persons  could  be  detected  with  a  con- 
siderable degree  of  certainty.  The  freshness  of  footprints, 
broken  twigs,  and  similar  signs,  showed  how  recently  the 
party  had  passed. 

As  before  stated,  the  year,  1850,  was  the  beginning  of 
the  third  epoch  in  the  history  of  the  Big  Bend — the  American 
epoch.  The  Spaniards  spent  two  hundred  and  seventy  years 
in  an  effort  to  conquer  and  colonize  this  region ;  the  Mexicans 
threw  off  the  yoke  of  the  Spaniards,  and  upon  the  crumbling 
foundation  of  ,the  Spanish  civilization,  they,  too,  attempted 
to  subdue  this  country  but  it  remained  for  th»  Americans,  a 
more  northern  race,  with  different  ideas  and  ideals,  to  accom- 


126  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

plish  that  which  the  two  first  named  peoples  had  failed  to 
accomplish* 

Before  the  economic  pressure,  which  forced  the  lines  of 
civilization  westward,  became  so  great  in  the  eastern  portion 
of  the  United  States,  the  Big  Bend  had  attained  a  state  of  semi- 
civilization  which  might  truly  be  called,  from  the  Indians' 
standpoint,  the  Golden  Age.  Under  the  Spanish  rule,  prior 
to  1810,  all  the  Indians,  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  Gulf 
of  California,  were  brought  under  the  benign  influence  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  Church,  through  the  efforts  of  the  Franciscan 
and  Jesuit  brotherhoods.  Under  the  Spanish  dominion,  a  cor- 
don of  military  and  ecclesiastical  stations  existed,  from  ocean 
to  ocean,  for  a  distance  of  fifteen  hundred  miles.  Troops, 
known  as  flying  squadrons,  passed  regularly  from  station  to 
station ;  and  at  each  station  great  structures  were  erected  for 
the  accommodation  of  these  troops,  for  religious  worship,  and 
for  storing  provisions.  The  remains  of  these  structures  still 
may  be  seen,  silent  witnesses  of  former  Spanish  greatness. 

Two  causes  brought  about  the  downfall  of  this  magnifi- 
cent cordon  of  military  and  ecclesiastical  establishments  and 
the  return  of  Indians  to  a  savage  life,  far  more  ferocious  than 
ever  before.  First,  the  revolution,  where  both  the  Monarch- 
ists and  Republicans  courted  the  co-operation  of  the  Indians, 
and  thus  invited  them  to  insubordination.  Second,  and  more 
lasting,  the  attempts  at  amalgamation  by  intermarriage  of  the 
Spaniards  and  the  Indians.  This  last  cause,  which  has  oper- 
ated so  banefully  over  the  whole  Spanish  America,  and  which 
after  years  of  practice  resulted  in  almost  universal  disease 
among  the  Mexicans,  or  Mexico  Indians,  has  not  been  suf- 
ficiently stressed  in  the  many  attempts  to  account  for  the 
retrogression  and  decay  of  the  population  of  the  Spanish- 
speaking  countries. 

The  second,  or  Mexican  epoch,  was  of  such  short  duration 
that  judgment  can  not  well  be  passed  upon  what  the  ultimate 
outcome  might  have  been.  But  the  internal  affairs  of  Mexico, 
from  that  time  until  to-day,  have  been  kept  in  a  continual  agi- 
tation by  a  succession  of  revolts  and  revolutions,  which  have 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  127 

precluded  the  successful  operation  of  any  fixed  policies  in 
regard  to  the  frontiers  of  that  republic. 

In  order  that  we  Americans,  as  a  people,  may  not  take  more 
credit  than  is  due  us  for  winning  the  Big  Bend  to  civilization, 
it  might  be  well  to  advance  the  suggestion  that  our  prede- 
cessors laid  a  foundation  upon  which  we,  as  a  stronger  and 
more  energetic  race,  have  built  and  remodeled  to  a  better 
advantage. 

While  the  third  epoch  really  began  with  the  successful  termi- 
nation of  the  war  with  Mexico,  1846-48,  the  two  years  following 
were  given  over  entirely  to  exploration  and  reconnaissance, 
in  order  that  a  policy  for  the  betterment  of  the  newly-acquired 
empire  might  be  formulated.  The  first  two  important  steps 
taken  were  the  establishment  of  mail  routes  and  military  out- 
posts. Strange  to  say,  the  mail  routes  were  established  prior 
to  the  posts.  This  was  due,  not  to  local  conditions  in  the  Big 
Bend,  but  to  the  fact  that  a  tremendous  volume  of  mail  fol- 
lowed the  rush  of  the  emigrants  and  gold-seekers  to  California, 
and  there  was  need  for  a  shorter  route  than  by  ship  down 
the  Atlantic  to  Panama,  across  that  country,  and  up  the  Pacific 
Coast  to  California. 

In  1850,  the  San  Antonio-El  Paso  link  in  the  chain  of 
mail  routes,  which  crossed  the  continent,  was  welded;  and 
the  first  contract  was  awarded  to  Henry  Skillman.  The  initial 
"run"  was  made  with  six  wild  mules  and  a  Concord  coach, 
guarded  by  a  party  of  eighteen  well-armed,  mounted  men 
under  the  captaincy  of  the  famous  Indian  fighter,  Big  Foot 
Wallace.  This  "run"  required  thirty  days  to  cover  the  dis- 
tance of  six  hundred  and  seventy-three  miles,  due  to  the  fact 
that  only  daylight  "runs"  were  made  and  there  was  no  equip- 
ment for  the  various  stations  along  the  route.  It  must  be 
borne  in  mind  that  the  whole  distance  was  infested  by  hostile 
Indians,  and  that  these  mail  parties  faced  the  ever-present 
danger  of  attack  by  superior  numbers.  The  contract  called 
for  three  mails  a  week,  each  way;  but  until  after  the  Civil 
War,  no  more  than  one  mail  a  week,  each  way,  succeeded  in 
reaching  the  terminals. 


128  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

In  a  short  time,  along  this  route,  thirty  or  forty  miles 
apart,  stage  stands,  or  stations,  were  established,  according 
to  their  nearness  to  water  and  their  location  in  regard  to  pro- 
tection from  the  Indians.  The  personnel  of  the  guard  accom- 
panying each  coach,  consisted  of  frontiersmen,  inured  to  hard- 
ships and  experienced  in  Indian  fighting. 

Big  Foot  Wallace,  perhaps  the  most  widely-known  Indian 
fighter  in  the  history  of  Texas,  figured  as  the  chief  character 
in  many  of  the  tales  of  romance  along  the  frontier.  One  day, 
while  living  on  his  ranch  about  thirty  miles  west  of  San  An- 
tonio, he  heard  his  dogs  barking  a  short  distance  from  the 
house.  He  knew  from  the  sound  of  their  baying  that  they  had 
treed  some  animal,  and,  as  customary,  he  took  his  rifle  and 
went  to  their  assistance.  What  was  his  surprise  to  find  an 
Indian  up  in  the  forks  of  a  tree,  just  out  of  reach  of  the  dogs ! 
The  Indian  was  a  young  warrior,  on  his'  first  raid,  and  had 
become  separated  from  his  companions.  While  he  was  armed 
with  bow  and  arrow,  these  were  strapped  to  his  back,  and  evi- 
dently he  had  been  too  frightened  to  use  them.  Big  Foot 
hauled  him  out  of  the  tree,  put  him  in  the  saddle  on  his  horse, 
tied  his  feet  under  the  horse's  belly,  and  in  this  way  carried 
him  to  Castroville.  Riding  into  the  village,  this  strange  couple 
attracted  much  interest. 

"Say,  Big  Foot,  give  me  that  Indian/'  called  one  of  his 
friends. 

"No,  this  is  my  Indian,"  replied  Wallace.  "If  you  want  an 
Indian  go  out  and  get  one.  There  are  plenty  left." 

Another  story  is  told,  which  illustrates  Wallace's  bravery 
and  quick  wit.  Big  Foot  was  out  horse-hunting  on  a  mule, 
when  he  came  upon  a  fresh  Indian  trail  leading  in  a  northerly 
direction,  over  a  divide.  To  make  certain  that  the  Indians 
took  the  same  trail  on  the  other  side  of  the  divide,  Wallace 
spurred  up  his  mule  to  reach  the  top  of  the  rise.  If  he  could 
establish  the  fact  that  the  Indians  had  continued  in  the  same 
direction,  he  intended  to  hurry  on  to  Castroville  and  organize 
a  party  to  intercept  them.  As  he  rode  over  the  crest  of  the 
hill,  he  came  suddenly  upon  twenty-five  or  thirty  Indians, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  129 

who  were  busy  catching  saddle-horses  out  of  a  big  herd  they 
had  stolen. 

Big  Foot  instantly  saw  his  danger;  there  were  too  many 
Indians  for  him  to  fight,  and  if  he  attempted  to  run,  the  swifter 
horses  of  the  Indians  would  soon  overtake  his  mule.  Without 
a  second's  hesitation,  he  charged  down  upon  them,  waving 
his  hat  towards  his  rear,  and  shouting  at  the  top  of  his  voice, 
"Come  on,  boys !  Come  on !  We've  got  em !" 

This  was  more  than  the  Indians  could  stand.  Naturally 
supposing  that  a  company  of  "badly  riled"  frontiersmen  were 
just  over  the  hill,  out  of  sight,  they  jumped  on  their  horses  and 
fled.  Wallace  leisurely  drove  the  stolen  horses  back  to  their 
owners. 

Two  other  hardy  frontiersmen  who  accompanied  Wallace 
as  guards  with  the  first  mail  party  to  enter  the  Big  Bend 
were  Diedrick  Dutchover  and  E.  P.  Webster,  both  of  whom 
settled  and  lived  at  Fort  Davis,  where  to-day  their  numerous 
descendants  reside. 

The  name,  Dutchover,  is  of  peculiar  significance  on  account 
of  its  origin.  In  1842,  a  youth,  by  the  name  of  Anton  Died- 
rick, in  Antwerp,  Belgium,  happened  to  be  the  sole  witness  of 
a  cold-blooded  murder.  The  murderers,  fearing  exposure, 
drugged  and  shanghaied  Diedrick;  and  when  he  awoke,  he 
found  himself  virtually  a  prisoner  on  board  a  tramp  wind- 
janimer — a  sailing  vessel  carrying  nondescript  cargoes  from 
one  port  to  another.  For  three  years  he  remained  a  prisoner 
on  board  of  this  boat,  and  during  that  time  he  sailed  the  high 
seas  and  made  many  ports.  Eventually,  the  wind-jammer 
reached  the  port  of  Galveston,  and  there  Anton  Diedrick  was 
allowed  to  go  ashore. 

The  struggle  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico  had 
just  begun;  all  the  able-bodied  men,  who  could  fight,  were 
being  urged  to  enlist  in  the  army.  Impelled  by  curiosity  and 
wondering  at  the  strange  commotion  around  him,  Anton  Died- 
rick one  day  found  himself  near  a  recruiting  station.  Sud- 
denly a  man  in  a  blue  uniform  grabbed  him  by  the  arm  and 
began  talking  to  him  rapidly  in  English — of  which  Diedrick 


130  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

understood  not  one  word.  Before  the  dazed  youth  could  make 
out  the  situation,  he  was  pulled  into  the  recruiting  station  and 
called  upon  to  give  his  name.  Not  understanding  the  question 
asked  him,  naturally  he  made  no  answer.  Whereupon  the 
recruiting  officer  exclaimed,  "Aw,  he's  Dutch  all  over.  We'll 
name  him  Dutchallover !"  In  this  manner  he  became  an  Amer- 
ican soldier  and  answered  to  the  name  of  Diedrick  Dutchall- 
over. 

As  time  passed,  after  serving  with  merit  in  the  Mexican 
War,  the  name  of  Dutchallover  became  too  cumbersome,  and 
the  second  syllable  was  therefore  stricken  from  the  name — 
leaving  Dutchover.  In  after  years  when  Diedrick  Dutchover 
applied  for  pension  papers,  as  a  Mexican  War  veteran,  he  had 
considerable  trouble  in  establishing  the  co-identity  of  Anton 
Diedrick,  Diedrick  Dutchallover,  and  Diedrick  Dutchover. 

By  the  close  of  the  year,  1850,  the  stage-stands  along  the 
mail  routes  were  completed  and  the  mail  facilities  expedited. 
The  stage-stands  of  adobe  were  all  built  on  the  same  plan. 
They  were  usually  placed  on  a  rise  or  sweep  of  ground,  which 
permitted  the  stage-tender  to  see  several  hundred  yards  in 
every  direction.  On  either  side  of  the  broad  entrance  was  a 
large  room.  This  entrance,  or  gateway,  was  barred,  and  opened 
into  a  passage-way,  which  was  covered  overhead  by  a  roof 
extending  from  the  rooms  on  either  side.  In  the  rear  of  these 
rooms,  and  large  enough  to  accommodate  a  number  of  teams, 
was  the  corral  or  patio.  The  walls  of  the  corral  were  twelve 
or  fifteen  feet  high,  two  or  three  feet  thick,  and  constructed 
of  adobe  brick.  One  of  the  rooms  was  used  for  cooking  and 
eating;  the  other  was  used  for  sleeping  quarters  and  a  store- 
room. The  stage  company  furnished  each  stage-tender  with 
supplies,  and  he  cooked  for  the  passengers — when  there  were 
passengers — charging  them  fifty  cents  a  meal.  The  stage- 
tender  was  allowed  to  keep  for  his  recompense  all  money  col- 
lected in  this  manner. 

When  the  stage  rolled  into  the  station,  the  tender  swung 
open  the  gates,  and  the  mules,  which  were  of  the  untamed 
Spanish  breed,  dashed  into  the  corral.  As  soon  as  they  were 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  131 

unhitched  from  the  stage-coach,  the  men  would  turn  around 
the  stage  by  hand,  pointing  it  towards  the  entrance.  When  the 
fresh  mules  were  hitched  to  the  stage-coach  and  the  gates  again 
opened,  with  a  yell  from  the  driver,  and  a  crack  from  his  whip, 
the  mules  would  dash  out  of  the  enclosure  on  a  wild  run, 
which  did  not  slacken  until  the  next  stage-stand  was  reached. 

Often,  when  the  Indians  were  quiet,  the  detachments  of 
troops  which  ordinarily  camped  near  the  stage  stations  were 
ordered  away;  and  during  these  unprotected  periods,  the  In- 
dians would  creep  up  to  the  stage-stand  unobserved  and,  not 
infrequently,  succeed  in  killing  the  stage-tender.  A  few  years 
after  the  establishment  of  the  mail  route,  an  amusing  incident 
occurred  at  the  old  Barila  stage-stand,  thirty  miles  northeast 
of  Fort  Davis,  near  the  present  J  E  F  Ranch.  The  stage- 
tender  was  in  the  act  of  feeding  his  stock  in  the  corral,  and 
was  bending  over  a  barrel  containing  shelled  corn.  The  In- 
dians had  been  quiet  for  some  time  and  he  had  no  thoughts  of 
them.  Suddenly  a  great  shadow  was  thrown  on  the  ground 
near  him,  and  at  the  same  time  he  heard  a  noise  overhead.  It 
flashed  into  his  mind  that  a  bear  had  climbed  the  wall,  and 
he  was  blaming  himself  for  not  keeping  his  gun  by  his  side. 
He  realized  how  tired  he  had  become  of  salt  pork ;  and  visions 
of  a  juicy  bear-steak  arose  in  his  mind.  He  looked  up.  As  he 
did  so  a  big  buck  Indian  lit  on  the  ground  an  arm's  length 
from  him.  The  surprised  stage-tender  yelled  for  fear.  The 
Indian,  too,  stood  amazed  in  his  tracks.  He  was  as  much 
surprised  as  the  stage-tender.  The  yell  of  the  white  man  still 
confused  him ;  and  while  he  stood  transfixed,  the  stage-tender 
scrambled  over  the  wall.  Later,  the  old  stage-tender  remarked, 
"I  left  it  with  him,  and  ran  nine  miles  to  a  ranch  settlement." 

From  1850  to  1857,  or  until  the  Government  subsidized 
the  Butterfield  Overland  Daily  Mail  route  through  the  Guada- 
lupe  Mountains,  the  Davis  Mountains'  route  was  the  highway 
over  which  passed  the  freight,  mail,  and  passenger  traffic  from 
the  East  to  the  West.  Comanche  Painted  Camp  (later  Fort 
Davis)  became  known  as  La  Limpia,  the  name  being  derived 
from  the  clear  running  stream  which  flowed  down  the  great 


132  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

canyon  in  the  Davis  Mountains.  As  yet,  no  intermediate  post- 
offices  had  been  established  on  the  mail  route  west  of  the  Pecos 
River,  but  letters  were  delivered  at  the  various  stage  stations. 
A  few  settlements  sprang  up  here  and  there.  On  account  of 
the  Chihuahua  Trail  and  Overland  Trail  passing  through  La 
Limpia,  a  few  Mexicans  settled  on  Limpia  Creek  and  raised 
corn  and  cut  prairie  hay  for  the  stage-stands.  On  Alamito 
Creek  a  few  settlements  likewise  sprung  up.  Also,  on  the 
northern  side  of  Davis  Mountains,  where  now  is  Toyahvale, 
along  the  banks  of  Toy  ah  Creek  and  at  the  famous  Head 
Springs,  a  few  of  the  more  daring  of  the  Mexicans  built  their 
ranchos.  These  settlements,  however,  could  not  be  called  per- 
manent. Hardly  were  they  established,  before  the  Mescalero 
Apaches  destroyed  them,  killed  the  men,  and  took  the  women 
and  children  away  into  captivity. 

After  the  establishment  of  the  line  of  stage-stands,  E.  P. 
Webster  became  stage-tender  at  La  Limpia,  while  Diedrick 
Dutchover  continued  riding  as  guard  for  two  years. 

There  was  so  much  trouble  in  getting  the  mail  over  the 
route  that  a  change  took  place  whereby  the  escort  guard  was 
reduced  to  four  men,  and  the  War  Department  stationed  de- 
tachments of  troops  along  the  routes,  thus  forming  an  almost 
continuous  picket-line  from  San  Antonio  to  El  Paso.  These 
troops  worked  in  relays  from  permanent  camps,  which  in  time 
automatically  became  known  as  posts. 

Until  1852,  there  was  no  official  postoffice  on  the  north 
banks  of  the  Rio  Grande.  Opposite  Paso  del  Norte,  there  had 
grown  up  a  village  of  two  hundred  inhabitants,  which  included 
the  majority  of  the  dwellers  in  the  El  Paso  district.  In  order 
to  satisfy  the  needs  of  this  growing  community,  the  Postoffice 
Department  established  a  postoffice,  giving  it  the  name  of 
Franklin,  in  honor  of  the  first  postmaster,  Franklin  Coontz. 
At  the  same  time,  San  Elceario  became  Americanized,  and  the 
name  of  the  town  changed  to  San  Elizario.  This  town,  with 
a  population  of  two  thousand  inhabitants,  had  grown  to  be 
the  largest  town  in  the  Big  Bend.  Two  years  before,  the  Big 
Bend  had  been  divided  into  two  immense  counties,  El  Paso 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  133 

and  Presidio.  El  Paso  county  included  the  extreme  western 
corner  of  the  state,  and  San  Elizario  was  made  the  county  seat, 
with  jurisdiction  over  Presidio  county,  which  was  not  then  or- 
ganized. 

While  settlement  was  growing  in  the  El  Paso  district  and 
the  great  trails  were  becoming  more  and  more  travel  worn, 
the  Boundary  Commission  was  progressing  slowly  with  its 
work  along  the  Rio  Grande.  Major  W.  J.  Emory  had  been 
removed  from  duty  in  1850,  but  was  reinstated  in  the  fall  of 
1851.  Work  on  the  commission  was  greatly  handicapped  by 
complications  arising  from  the  control  of  the  work  being  trans- 
ferred from  the  Department  of  State  to  the  Department  of  the 
Interior.  Drafts  to  the  amount  of  forty-three  thousand  dollars, 
drawn  by  the  commissioner  in  charge  at  that  time,  J.  R. 
Bartlett,  had  been  repudiated  by  the  Department  of  the  Inte- 
rior ;  and  the  affairs  of  the  commission  were  in  a  bad  way.  By 
the  prompt  action  of  the  War  Department,  in  having  Major 
Emory  reinstated,  and  thus  placing,  the  commission  in  the 
hands  of  the  military,  the  situation  was  saved.  In  1853,  a  new 
boundary  treaty  was  made  with  Mexico,  known  as  the  Gadsden 
Treaty,  which  superseded  the  treaty  of  Guadalupe  Hidalgo, 
of  1848.  The  field  or  exploration  work  under  charge  of  Major 
Emory  was  not  completed  until  1856.  The  American  Com- 
mission during  these  several  years  of  work  had  crossed  the 
continent  from  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Grande,  in  Texas,  to  San 
Diego,  California,  with  the  loss  of  only  two  men,  while  the 
Mexican  Commission  was  robbed  twice  by  the  Apaches,  and 
otherwise  handicapped  by  the  inability  of  the  Mexican  Govern- 
ment to  furnish  means  of  carrying  on  the  work  as  had  been 
agreed. 

The  year  1854,  witnessed  the  next  important  step  in  ad- 
vancing the  line  of  civilizatipn  west  of  the  Pecos.  The  Mes- 
caleros  had  gathered  in  large  bands  in  the  Davis  Mountains 
and  were  striving  fiercely  to  hold  back  the  tide  of  whites,  which 
was  now  flowing  steadily  into  the  country.  The  principal 
points  of  attack  lay  along  Limpia  Creek  and  the  western  slope 
of  the  Davis  Mountains.  For  years,  the  military  authorities 


134  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

had  been  recommending  and  urging  the  War  Department  to 
establish  permanent  posts  along  the  Overland  Trail,  to  compel 
the  Indians  to  remain  in  their  haunts,  beyond  striking  distance 
of  the  line  of  travel.  Posts  had  been  established  east  of  the 
Pecos  and  soldiers  had  followed  the  Indians  westward.  Thus 
the  region  west  of  the  Pecos  was  subjected  more  severely 
than  ever  to  Indian  depredations ;  and  at  last,  the  Secretary  of 
War,  Jefferson  Davis,  decided  to  establish  in  the  center  of 
this  great  region  a  post,  the  influence  of  which  would  tend 
to  discourage  Indian  interference  with  settlers  and  Govern- 
ment work  in  that  country. 

Heretofore,  no  man's  life  was  safe  on  the  Limpia.  Even 
with  the  added  protection  of  the  few  troops,  so  inadequate  was 
their  ability  to  do  the  work  demanded  of  them,  that  almost 
daily  an  emigrant  train,  a  freighter  on  the  Chihuahua  Trail, 
or  a  mail  party  brought  word  of  an  Indian  attack.  Fortunate, 
indeed,  was  the  party,  who  reached  their  destination  without 
the  loss  of  one  or  more  men,  or  perhaps  the  loss  of  their  entire 
work-stock.  The  Indians  had  retreats  within  rifle-shot  of 
the  little  settlements  and  could  easily  escape  pursuit;  and 
after  an  attack  they  have  been  known  to  return  to  a  settle- 
ment by  a  circuitous  route,  and  unmolested,  burn,  murder, 
and  pillage  to  their  hearts'  content,  while  all  the  available 
men  were  away  following  their  trail. 

When  the  Eighth  Infantry,  under  the  command  of  Lieu- 
tenant Colonel  Washington  Seawell,  arrived  on  the  Limpia, 
four  hundred  men  strong,  on  October  3,  1854,  he  was  com- 
pelled to  fight  his  way  into  camp,  through  an  Indian  ambush, 
where  the  warriors,  stationed  behind  every  rock  and  boulder, 
had  an  unobstructed  view  of  their  target.  Four  days  later, 
October  7,  Fort  Davis  was  formally  established  and  named; 
and  from  the  moment  the  first  adobe  brick  was  laid  in  the 
construction  of  the  post  buildings,  a  new  era  dawned  for  the 
country. 

The  Eighth  Infantry,  the  first  troops  to  occupy  this  post, 
was  composed  of  six  companies  of  mounted  riflemen.  The 
news  of  the  establishment  of  the  post  spread  rapidly  over  the 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  135 

West.  Traders  and  merchants  came ;  and,  unfortunately,  with 
them  came  saloonkeepers  and  gamblers.  But,  true  to  the  rough 
times,  these  several  elements — the  useful  and  the  parasitical — 
stood  together  in  building  up  a  sturdy  town,  which  in  time 
became  the  metropolis  of  the  Big  Bend. 

The  nearest  point  of  supplies,  to  the  east,  was  San  Antonio ; 
to  the  west,  El  Paso;  to  the  south,  Chihuahua  City.  These 
distances  necessitated  expensive  hauling.  In  the  valleys  sur- 
rounding the  Davis  Mountains,  the  black  gramma  grass  was 
knee-high;  and  on  the  little  irrigated  farms,  wheat  could  be 
successfully  raised.  With  so  many  local  resources,  it  was 
but  natural  that  in  a  short  time  grain  was  harvested  and  hay 
cut  for  the  use  of  the  new  post  command. 

The  naming  of  Fort  Davis  has  long  been  an  unsettled  ques- 
tion. Historians  are  loath  to  accept  evidence  submitted  in 
proof  of  a  point  unless  that  evidence  bristles  with  truth.  It 
has  long  been  the  custom  of  the  War  Department  to  name 
forts,  fortresses,  military  posts  and  cantonments  after  leaders 
who  have  been  prominent  in  the  army  or  navy.  Usually  the 
names  are  chosen  from  the  honored  dead.  This  custom  is  to- 
day more  closely  adhered  to,  however,  than  in  early  times* 
When  Fort  Davis  was  established  Jefferson  Davis  was  Secre- 
tary of  War.  The  post  was  located,  either  after  a  personal  in- 
spection by  Mr.  Davis,  or  upon  the  recommendation  of  some- 
one considered  authoritative  by  him.  Despite  the  fact  that  his- 
torians generally  hold  to  the  opinion  that  Jefferson  Davis  was 
never  west  of  the  Pecos  River,  many  bits  of  evidence  would 
point  to  the  fact  that  he  had  visited  this  country. 

When  Jeff  Davis  County  was  organized,  in  1887,  James 
Stewart,  the  first  county  clerk  of  the  new  county,  wrote  to 
Mr.  Davis,  informing  him  that  the  county  had  been  named 
in  his  honor.  In  reply  to  this  letter,  Mr.  Davis  wrote  Mr. 
Stewart  that  he  recalled  well  his  visit  to  the  old  Fort  Davis, 
while  on  a  trip  of  inspection  he  had  made  to  the  frontier 
posts.  Unfortunately,  this  letter  has  been  misplaced.  A  close 
reading  of  Mr.  Davis*  Annual  Report  to  the  President,  while 
Secretary  of  War,  shows  an  intimate  knowledge  of  the  country 


136  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

west  of  the  Pecos,  which  could  only  have  been  obtained  through 
personal  observation  and  travel.  The  fact  that  Mr.  Davis 
introduced  camels  into  the  country  shortly  after  establishing 
Fort  Davis  is  but  further  evidence  that  he  had  a  personal 
knowledge  of  conditions  in  this  arid  region. 

Bearing  out  Mr.  Davis*  letter  to  Mr.  Stewart,  there  was 
another  letter,  also  lost,  written  by  an  army  officer,  while 
attached  to  the  Jeff  Davis  party.  The  letter  was  to  the  officer's 
wife  and  described  Mr.  Davis*  trip  of  inspection  along  the 
frontier. 

It  is  unfortunate  that  these  proofs  of  Mr.  Davis*  visit  to 
the  Big  Bend  cannot  be  produced.  Many  months  of  earnest 
effort  have  been  spent  to  substantiate  this  interesting  point. 
The  oldest  inhabitants — and  there  are  some  whose  memory 
can  reach  back  to  1854 — claim  that  Fort  Davis  was  named 
in  honor  of  Jefferson  Davis. 

Prior  to  the  coming  of  the  troops,  there  were  but  few  cat- 
tle in  the  country.  It  was  now  necessary  that  beef  should  be 
obtained;  and  beef  contracts  were  made.  John  W.  Spencer, 
at  Presidio,  had  failed  in  the  horse  raising  business — the  In- 
dians had  attended  to  that.  He  then  turned  to  cattle,  buying 
his  first  cattle  from  the  great  haciendas  in  Chihuahua.  With 
the  coming  of  the  troops,  came  a  Virginian,  Milton  Favor, 
who,  striking  out  with  that  certainty  of  self,  so  characteris- 
tically American,  established  a  ranch  a  few  miles  above  Pre- 
sidio. This  same  year,  Senor  Manuel  Musquiz  settled  in  the 
canyon,  six  miles  southeast  of  Fort  Davis ;  which  later  became 
known  as  Musquiz  Canyon.  Musquiz  was  a  political  refugee 
from  Mexico,  of  prominent  family;  to-day  the  remains  of 
his  ranch-house  and  corral  may  be  seen  on  the  road  between 
Fort  Davis  and  Alpine,  and  the  great  alamos,  or  cotton-wood 
trees,  planted  by  him,  still  stand. 

It  did  not  take  long  for  the  word  to  spread  among  the 
Indians  in  the  West  that  a  fort  had  been  established,  the  pur- 
pose of  which,  as  they  saw  it,  was  to  cheat  them  out  of  their 
domain.  They  had  seen  the  result  of  the  establishment  of 
other  posts  east  of  the  Pecos  River;  and  with  prophetic  eyes 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  137 

they  saw  truly  the  result  of  this  new  post,  which  had  been 
established  in  the  very  heart  of  their  stronghold. 

To  the  Indians,  depredating  and  murdering  were  a  religion ; 
and  in  the  minds  of  these  savages  one  idea  became  fixed  and 
remained  so,  until  the  remnants  of  the  last  band  of  Mescalero 
Apaches  was  driven  from  their  retreat  in  the  mountains  of  the 
Big  Bend,  many  years  later.  Their  idea  was  to  destroy  Fort 
Davis,  and  thereby  so  greatly  discourage  the  white  settlers 
that  the  country  west  of  the  Pecos  River  would  be  left  to  the 
Indians.  In  the  twenty  years  following  the  establishment  of 
Fort  Davis,  perhaps  that  fort  stood  more  attacks  from  the 
Indians  than  any  other  post  of  that  day. 

In  pursuance  of  the  policy,  which  after  years  of  delay  and 
indecision  has  been  put  into  operation  by  the  War  Department, 
Colonel  Seawell  began  a  systematic  campaign  to  drive  back 
the  Mescaleros  from  the  strip  of  country  bordering  either  side 
of  the  Overland  Mail  route.  It  was  imperative  that  this  be 
done,  not  only  in  order  to  protect  the  American  settlers,  but 
in  order  that  the  Government  might  not  become  embroiled 
with  Mexico,  on  account  of  the  Indians  raiding  south  of  the 
Rio  Grande. 

One  advantageous  condition  resulted  from  this  active 
campaign.  There  had  been  considerable  complaint  from 
the  officers  commanding  the  different  posts  on  account  of  the 
unsatisfactory  class  of  recruits  which  had  filled  up  the  ranks 
since  the  Mexican  War.  The  Eighth  Infantry  had  been  ex- 
ceptionally hard  hit  in  this  regard.  Immediately  following  the 
war,  in  1848,  this  regiment  raised  a  purse  of  eight  hundred 
dollars  and  employed  counsel  at  Washington  to  have  a  law 
passed,  by  which  they  would  all  be  discharged.  In  1849,  the 
regiment  was  recruited  almost  entirely  anew,  and  by  the  time 
these  men  had  learned  something  of  military  tactics,  they  were 
transferred  to  the  Pacific  division,  and,  for  the  third  time 
in  six  years,  the  regiment  was  built  up  from  raw  material. 

The  campaign  against  the  Indians  in  the  Davis  Mountains, 
in  1855,  converted  this  raw  troop  into  efficient  and  formidable 
fighting  men.  The  active  warfare  waged  against  them  in  the 


138  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Big  Bend  and  Davis  Mountains  country,  caused  the  Mescalero 
Apaches,  Comanches,  and  Lipans  to  enter  Mexico  in  large 
numbers,  not  to  depredate,  as  formerly,  but  to  make  treaties 
with  the  different  Mexican  states  and  to  gain  protection  from 
the  American  troops. 

For  a  time,  the  usual  Indian  situation  was  reversed.  In- 
stead of  the  Indians  raiding  into  Mexico,  from  their  mountain 
retreats  in  Texas  and  New  Mexico,  they  now  raided  into  Texas 
and  New  Mexico,  from  their  mountain  retreats  in  the  northern 
states  of  Mexico. 

Owing  to  the  vacillating  policy  practiced  by  the  Mexican 
Government  in  matters  pertaining  to  the  Indians,  it  was  im- 
possible for  the  American  settlers  to  look  for  redress.  It 
was  but  a  short  time  after  Colonel  Seawell  had  cleared  the 
country  of  the  marauders,  when  they  again  began  their  depre- 
dating. The  first  intimation  of  the  return  of  the  Indians  the 
settlers  had,  was  the  attack  at  El  Muerto,  or  Deadman's  Hole, 
on  a  detachment  of  mounted  riflemen  from  Fort  Davis.  A 
sergeant  and  a  musician  were  killed  before  the  Indians  could 
be  driven  off.  Between  El  Muerto  and  Van  Horn,  the  same 
party  of  Indians  attacked  the  west-bound  stage,  but  were  kept 
from  doing  serious  damage  by  the  appearance  of  the  east- 
bound  stage  with  a  heavily-armed  guard. 

Lieutenant  Horace  Randell,  with  a  detachment  of  mounted 
riflemen,  intercepted  these  Indians,  who  proved  to  be  Mesca- 
leros,  in  Canyon  de  los  Lamentos,  or  Quitman  Canyon.  A  run- 
ning fight  began  midway  between  the  Canyon  and  Eagle 
Spring,  and  covered  the  same  ground  where  one  of  the  hardest 
Indian  fights  took  place  twenty-five  years  later.  The  punish- 
ment inflicted  upon  the  Indians  by  Lieutenant  Randell  had  a 
salutary  effect  upon  many  other  bands  which  were  preparing 
to  cross  the  Rio  Grande  and  attack  the  mail  route  at  various 
points. 

There  is  no  question  but  that  the  soldiers  rendered  invalu- 
able service  in  keeping  the  Indians  out  of  the  Big  Bend,  in  the 
years  '54-'55 ;  they  were  aided  to  a  certain  extent,  however, 
by  a  drought,  which  covered  an  unbroken  period  from  1850-55. 


^m^^^^^jj&^^j^fSj&BJML 


JUDGE  AND  MRS.  J.  F.  MIEIR 
Their  first  home  in  Toyah  Valley 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  139 

The  Indians  were  even  more  dependent  upon  rainfall  than  the 
whites ;  it  was  necessary  that  their  trails  should  be  well  sup- 
plied with  water ;  that  game  be  plentiful,  and  that  grass  contain 
nourishment  for  their  horses.  They  carried  neither  commis- 
sary nor  water  canteens,  as  did  the  whites.  If  their  trails 
crossed  a  country  devoid  of  springs,  they  waited  for  rains 
to  fill  tenejas  and  char  cos — the  former  being  great  rocks  in 
which  the  wind  had  burrowed  holes ;  the  latter  were  the  ponds 
and  water-holes  filled  by  drainage  during  the  rainy  season. 
On  account  of  this  severe  drought,  raiding  parties  were  less 
frequent;  and  no  big  movement,  numbering  several  hundred 
warriors,  could  be  undertaken. 

This  drought  was  so  severe  that,  in  the  second  year,  the 
Rio  Grande  was  dry  below  the  El  Paso  district;  and  a  party 
of  whites  drove  a  bunch  of  mules  from  Presidio  del  Norte  to 
San  Elizario,  traveling  the  whole  distance  in  the  bed  of  the 
River. 

The  Davis  Mountains  were  the  only  section  during  this 
time  that  had  any  considerable  rainfall,  and,  in  the  last  year 
of  drought,  Milton  Favor — Don  Milton,  as  he  was  called  by  the 
Mexicans — and  John  W.  Spencer  drove  their  cattle  out  of  the 
Rio  Grande  and  Alameto  ranges  into  the  Davis  range. 

In  the  same  year  that  Fort  Davis  was  made  a  post,  another 
important  settlement  was  founded.  This  was  at  the  cross- 
roads of  the  great  trails — Comanche  Springs.  The  Govern- 
ment here  located  a  military  post,  and  named  it  in  honor  of 
Commodore  Stockton,  who  occupied  Monterey,  California, 
during  the  Mexican  War.  It  was  not,  however,  until  1859 
that  General  Anson  E.  Mills,  deputy  surveyor  of  El  Paso 
County,  formally  laid  out  old  Fort  Stockton. 

One  very  interesting  point,  which  either  has  passed  unno- 
ticed or  has  been  ignored  by  chroniclers  of  Texas  history,  is 
the  fact  that  Jefferson  Davis,  while  Secretary  of  War,  intro- 
duced camels  in  the  arid  portions  of  the  Southwest.  In  1856, 
the  first  cargo  of  thirty-two  camels  refached  the  coast  of  Texas, 
and  was  distributed  from  San  Antonio  to  the  Davis  Mountains. 
The  year  following,  upon  the  arrival  of  a  second  cargo  of  forty 


140  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

head,  the  deserts  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona  began  to  know 
these  strange  beasts  of  burden. 

Considerable  time  was  required  for  the  first  lot  of  thirty- 
two  camels  to  recover  from  their  long  sea  voyage  and  become 
acclimated.  During  the  period  of  acclimation,  two  of  the 
beasts  died.  When  one  considers  the  great  change  in  climatic 
conditions  from  that  to  which  they  had  been  accustomed  and 
the  difference  in  grasses  and  foodstuffs,  it  speaks  well  for  the 
hardiness  of  the  animals  that  only  two  succumbed. 

The  first  practical  tests  made  to  ascertain  the  suitability  of 
the  camel  for  burden  carriers  in  the  Southwest  proved  suc- 
cessful. On  one  occasion  a  train  consisting  of  wagons  drawn 
by  army  mules  and  a  caravan  of  six  camels  were  sent  from 
Campe  Verde  to  San  Antonio,  a  distance  of  sixty  miles,  over  a 
road  no  worse  than  was  usually  found  on  the  frontier.  The 
result  was  much  in  favor  of  the  camels.  Two  wagons,  with 
a  combined  load  of  3,684  pounds,  and  each  wagon  drawn  by 
six  big  army  mules,  took  four  days  to  make  the  trip.  The  six 
camels,  likewise  with  a  combined  load  of  3,684  pounds,  made 
the  trip  in  two  and  one-half  days.  On  another  occasion,  the 
capacity  of  the  camel  for  traveling  over  rough,  stony  country 
and  muddy  roads  was  tested  with  satisfactory  results.  This 
journey  was  made  during  an  unusually  heavy  rain,  which  at 
first  glance  would  seem  a  serious  handicap,  but  which  later  will 
be  shown  to  have  been  the  cause  of  such  a  successful  trip. 
Instead  of  following  the  wagon  road,  which  the  rains  had  made 
impassable  for  a  wagon  at  that  time,  the  caravan  followed  a 
trail  over  the  mountains,  each  camel  loaded  with  328  pounds. 
Despite  rain  and  mud,  these  beasts  covered  sixty  miles  in  two 
days,  suffering  neither  unusual  fatigue  nor  inconvenience. 

After  these  and  similar  tests  made  under  what  was  con- 
sidered most  unfavorable  conditions — mud  and  rain — forty 
more  camels  were  imported;  and  transportation  authorities 
began  to  show  considerable  surprise  that  the  camel,  among  the 
first  beasts  to  be  domesticated  by  man,  had  not  been  introduced 
long  before.  The  theory  was  advanced  that  if  the  camel,  being 
accustomed  to  desert  sands,  could  perform  well  in  mud  and 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  141 

rain,  he  should  perform  better  as  conditions  approached  those 
to  which  he  was  accustomed. 

It  was  beginning  to  look  as  if  hard  times  were  in  store 
for  the  old  time  "mule-skinner"  and  "jerk-line"  teamsters;  it 
seemed  as  if  the  time  had  come  when  he  must  degenerate  into 
a  camel-driver.  To  add  to  the  teamster's  dislike  of  the  beasts, 
each  time  he  met  them  meant  the  runaway  of  his  mules.  So 
with  accumulative  hatred  he  waited  the  seemingly  inevitable 
development. 

With  the  coming  of  summer,  came  a  long  drought,  ac- 
companied by  hot  winds  and  sand  storms.  Typically  Saharian, 
said  the  camel  experts ;  and  they  waited  expectantly  to  see  the 
imported  camels  out-perform  the  native  mules.  And  they  did. 
They  carried  more  than  the  mules  could  pull;  they  needed 
little  water  and  less  food;  sun,  heat,  sand,  and  wind  failed 
to  bow  their  serenely-poised  heads.  With  a  shuffling,  pacing 
gait,  they  passed  slow-plodding,  heat-maddened  mules,  who, 
upon  the  strange  beasts'  passing,  invariably  wasted  a  day's 
worth  of  energy  in  a  desperate  effort  to  get  as  far  from  them 
as  possible. 

Gradually,  then  more  rapidly,  the  terrible  heat  of  the  sum- 
mer and  the  hot  winds,  began  to  draw  the  moisture  from  the 
earth.  The  ground  cracked  open  and  a  hard-baked  crust 
formed  on  the  surface.  Less  frequently,  the  camel-trains 
passed  the  wagon-trains.  The  teamsters  began  to  look  more 
cheerful.  Evidently,  something  was  wrong  with  the  "critters." 
Then  occasionally  teams  began  to  pass  a  caravan  on  the  road, 
the  camels,  with  heads  still  held  serenely  high,  resting  upon 
their  leathery  knees. 

The  experts  began  to  look  anxious,  then  dubious;  then 
disgusted.  Finally,  the  staunchest  friends  of  the  camel  ac- 
knowledged that  the  beasts  would  not  do  for  American  use. 
From  Texas  to  Arizona,  the  small,  sharp,  igneous  rocks  had 
literally  cut  to  shreds  the  soft-padded  feet  of  the  camels.  They 
were  irrecoverably  tenderfooted !  Unlike  the  mule,  whose 
tenderfootedness  could  be  remedied  by  proper  shoeing,  the 
bottom  of  the  camels'  feet  were  gristly  pads.  The  first  sea- 


142          ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

son  of  tests  the  beasts  performed  so  well  because  the  continual 
rains  kept  the  ground  soft,  both  on  plains  and  on  mountains. 
The  weakness  of  the  camels'  feet  did  not  show  up  until  the 
ground  became  hard  and  dry,  which  prevented  the  small  sharp- 
cornered  rock  from  being  mashed  into  the  earth  when  trod 
upon  by  the  camel. 

For  a  time  after  the  experiment  with  the  camels  was  aban- 
doned, these  animals  were  herded  and  cared  for  by  the  Govern- 
ment, principally  in  Arizona.  But  being  of  no  further  value — 
in  fact,  being  considered  a  burden  and  a  nuisance — the  herders 
became  slack  in  their  herding,  and  many  of  the  beasts  strayed 
away — unsought  and  unmourned.  Many  stories  are  centered 
about  these  pilgrims  of  the  desert — how  they  were  shot  by 
Indians,  and  hunters  who  thought  they  had  discovered  a  pre- 
historic species.  Then,  in  time,  they  disappeared,  and,  to-day, 
the  only  trace  that  remains  of  the  camel's  brief  life  in  the  great 
deserts  of  the  Southwest  is  contained  in  a  few  scattered  Gov- 
ernment records. 

In  1857,  the  Government  subsidized  the  Butterfield  Over- 
land Daily  Mail,  from  Saint  Louis  to  San  Francisco ;  and  for 
a  short  period  the  mail  route  left  the  old  line  at  the  Pecos 
River,  turning  northwest  and  following  that  stream  to  the  New 
Mexico  line ;  from  there  it  crossed  to  the  foot  of  the  Guada- 
lupe  Mountains,  on  to  the  Huaco  Tanks,  and  down  to  El  Paso. 
On  account  of  the  scarcity  of  water  this  route  was  abandoned 
in  a  short  time  and  the  old  trail,  through  Fort  Stockton  and 
Fort  Davis,  was  resumed. 

We  have  considered  the  first  early  efforts  of  the  American 
pioneers  to  win  homes  in  the  new  country  west  of  the  Pecos 
River.  We  have  seen  them  wrest  the  land  from  the  savage. 
So  occupied  had  been  these  people  with  their  own  struggles 
that  they  had  not  heard  the  rumbling  sounds  of  dissension, 
which  soon  would  divide  the  North  and  the  South,  and  precipi- 
tate a  struggle  which  would  not  only  have  a  far-reaching  effect 
over  the  more  civilized  sections  of  the  United  States,  but 
which  would  wipe  out  the  growing  settlements  west  of  the 
Pecos  River  and  cause  the  Big  Bend  again  to  be  overrun  by 
redskins.  * 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  143 


CHAPTER  XI 

The  conditions  in  the  Big  Bend  country,  in  1860,  were 
more  favorable  to  a  healthy  growth  of  the  settlements  than 
in  any  other  year  since  the  establishment  of  the  military  posts. 
Both  Fort  Davis  and  Fort  Stockton  were  at  this  time  flourish- 
ing settlements  of  several  hundred  people,  including  large 
bodies  of  troops  stationed  at  these  points  along  the  Overland 
Mail  routes.  The  route  by  way  of  Delaware  Creek  and  Guada- 
lupe  Mountains  had  been  abandoned,  and  a  daily  mail  had 
been  established  over  the  San  Antonio-El  Paso  division,  by 
way  of  Comanche  Springs  and  the  Davis  Mountains.  And 
another  mail  division,  coming  from  Fort  Worth,  converged 
with  the  main  route  at  Fort  Stockton.  Traffic  over  the  Chi- 
huahua Trail  had  grown  to  enormous  proportions,  and  as  many 
as  two  hundred  freight  outfits  made  round-trips  over  the  trail 
between  Chihuahua  and  San  Antonio.  Another  freight  line 
followed  the  mail  route  from  San  Antonio  to  El  Paso.  Just 
as  the  advent  of  a  railroad  in  modern  times  expedites  the 
growth  of  the  towns  through  which  it  goes,  so  did  these  great 
freight  trails  hasten  the  growth  of  the  settlements  through 
which  they  passed. 

The  Indian  situation  was  well  in  hand;  although  there 
were  times  when  spasmodic  raiding  was  carried  on  by  small 
bands,  who  broke  away  from  the  control  of  the  authorities 
in  New  Mexico.  The  habit  so  long  established  among  the 
Comanches  and  Apaches  to  follow  the  lure  of  the  Mexican 
moon,  or  September  moon,  could  not  be  overcome  in  one  gen- 
eration. Still,  these  raiding  parties  were  so  small  that  they 
dared  not  attack  a  well-armed  freight  outfit  or  mail  party. 

In  the  El  Paso  district,  the  postoffice  of  Franklin  had  grown 
to  be  a  "metropolis"  of  one  thousand  people.  San  Elizario, 
still  the  most  important  town  in  the  Big  Bend,  with  a  jurisdic- 


144  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

tion  over  thirty  thousand  square  miles  of  country,  contained 
two  thousand  inhabitants!  In  the  more  southern  section,  the 
Big  Bend  settlement,  started  by  John  W.  Spencer  and  others, 
had  grown  until  it  rivaled  the  town  on  the  Mexican  side  of  the 
Rio  Grande,  Presidio  del  Norte.  At  this  point,  the  Govern- 
ment encouraged  the  settlers  to  raise  wheat  for  the  troops  at 
Fort  Davis  and  Fort  Stockton.  A  small  flour-mill  was  erected, 
and  a  new  industry  was  added  to  that  of  stock-raising,  which 
had  been  started  in  1854,  by  Spencer  and  Favor.  In  a  way,  the 
United  States  was  taking  reprisal  on  the  Chihuahua  state 
government  for  a  decree,  which  had  been  issued  in  1855,  for- 
bidding the  exportation  of  corn  across  the  Rio  Grande.  This 
decree,  made  to  annoy  the  Americans,  was  put  into  effect  dur- 
ing the  time  of  a  great  drought,  when  practically  no  forage  or 
grain  were  obtainable  elsewhere  than  in  Chihuahua. 

While  the  Government  was  lavish  in  the  quartering  of 
troops  for  the  protection  of  various  settlements  in  the  Big 
Bend,  and  while  for  years  military  commanders  had  urgently 
advised  that  such  a  step  be  taken,  the  Government  steadfastly 
refused  to  station  troops  at  Presidio,  the  port  of  entry  opposite 
Presidio  del  Norte.  It  is  incomprehensible  that  the  United 
States  should  neglect  to  protect  that  settlement,  especially  as 
the  grain  supply  for  several  large  bodies  of  troops  was  grown 
and  milled  there.  Possibly,  the  fact  that  the  feeling  between 
the  American  and  the  Mexican  troops  was  of  a  nature  none  too 
cordial  might  have  caused  the  Government  to  take  no  chances 
in  engaging  our  country  in  another  war  with  Mexico. 

These  were  the  conditions  in  the  American  settlements  west 
of  the  Pecos  River  at  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War,  in  1861. 
The  six  companies  of  the  Eighth  Infantry,  which  had  made 
Fort  Davis  their  headquarters  since  1854,  had  been  scattered 
in  small  detachments  along  the  mail  routes,  as  guards  for  the 
stage-stands  and  mail  company's  property.  Immediately  after 
the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War,  these  troops  were  cut  off  from 
communication  with  the  North.  In  the  meantime,  the  Second 
Texas  Confederate  Cavalry,  under  the  command  of  Colonel 
John  R.  Baylor,  was  enroute  from  San  Antonio  to  El  Paso. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  145 

At  every  troop  station,  the  Federals  were  given  the  choice  of 
being  paroled  or  joining  the  Southern  cause.  As  the  Eighth 
Infantry  was  composed  largely  of  Northern  men,  they  accepted 
parole  and  were  allowed  to  withdraw. 

The  advance  guard  of  Colonel  Baylor's  command,  under 
Captain  Parker,  on  April  13,  1861,  marched  into  Fort  Davis, 
just  as  Company  H,  Eighth  Infantry,  Captain  Edwin  D.  Blake 
commanding,  retired. 

The  change  of  governments  had  little  effect  upon  local  con- 
ditions in  the  Big  Bend.  Those  whose  sympathies  were  with 
the  North  were  given  ample  time  to  close  up  their  affairs  and 
depart.  In  this  first  year,  under  Confederate  protection,  there 
was  no  perceptible  decrease  in  freighting  over  the  great  trails. 
The  mails  continued  to  run  as  usual,  although  at  less  regular 
intervals.  Detachments  of  Confederates  filled  the  stations 
which  Federal  troops  had  occupied. 

But  while  trade  conditions  remained  practically  the  same, 
the  Indian  situation  became  more  menacing.  Owing  to  the  dis- 
turbed condition  of  the  country  and  the  withdrawal  of  large 
forces  of  Federal  troops,  which  had  heretofore  been  employed 
in  controlling  the  Apaches,  these  Indians  had  sensed  the  great 
war  the  whites  were  waging  among  themselves,  and  conceived 
the  idea  that  the  appointed  hour  had  arrived  when  they  could 
gain  control  of  the  hunting-ground  of  their  forefathers.  With 
this  idea  prominent  in  their  minds  and  their  spirits  fired  by 
mescal  feasts,  the  fierce  Mescaleros  debouched  upon  the  Big 
Bend  in  war  parties  of  unusual  numbers. 

The  effect  of  this  was  soon  apparent;  and  once  again  the 
frontiersman  learned  to  accept  with  equanimity  the  loss  of  his 
work-stock  and,  often,  a  member  of  his  family,  or  a  friend; 
a  thing  which  boded  no  good  for  the  red  marauders  if  caught. 
In  a  letter  written  by  Pat  Murphy,  a  storekeeper  at  Fort  Davis, 
tinder  date  December  29,  1861,  the  casual  manner  in  which 
raids  were  mentioned  is  clearly  shown.  The  letter  was  a  long 
business  letter,  addressed  to  John  W.  Spencer,  at  Presidio, 
and  the  following  excerpt  was  the  last  paragraph:  "Night 
before  last,  the  Indians  came  to  my  corral  and  drove  off  a  num- 


146  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

ber  of  my  cattle.  A  party  of  thirty-three  men  pursued  them 
yesterday,  hot  on  the  trail,  and  I  hope  will  be  successful. 
Yours,  P.  Murphy." 

The  Indians,  as  a  rule,  preferred  to  strike  small,  outlying 
settlements,  rather  than  risk  losing  warriors  in  what  might 
prove  to  be  a  sanguinary  battle  with  well-armed  forces.  With 
the  coming  of  the  troops,  in  1854,  Senor  Manuel  Musquiz 
settled  in  the  beautiful  canyon,  six  miles  from  Fort  Davis. 
Here  he  built  a  substantial  ranch  home  along  the  edge  of  a 
well-watered  meadow,  which  was  sufficiently  large  to  furnish 
grazing  for  his  cattle.  Including  his  family  and  servants,  or 
peons,  this  little  settlement  numbered  twenty  people.  Don 
Manuel  made  frequent  trips  to  Presidio  del  Norte,  and  it  was 
during  one  of  these  trips  that  old  Nicolas,  the  chief  of  the 
Apaches,  with  two  hundred  and  fifty  warriors,  attacked  the 
ranch,  killed  three  members  of  the  Musquiz  household,  and 
drove  away  all  the  cattle. 

As  soon  as  the  Indians  left,  a  messenger  was  dispatched 
to  Fort  Davis  for  aid.  Lieutenant  Mayes  was  at  that  time 
stationed  at  the  post  with  a  detachment  of  twenty  men.  Not 
knowing  the  size  of  the  raiding  party,  the  lieutenant  took  up 
the  pursuit  with  twelve  soldiers  and  four  civilians,  at  the  same 
time  sending  for  reinforcements  to  Fort  Stockton,  where  the 
main  body  of  the  Confederate  troops  was  then  stationed. 

The  trail  was  plain.  The  Indians  followed  down  the  can- 
yon to  Mitre  Peak,  a  well-known  landmark,  ten  miles  north- 
west of  Alpine ;  from  there  they  headed  south  toward  Cathe- 
dral Peak,  where  they  struck  a  well-watered  canyon,  which 
led  them  toward  the  Rio  Grande. 

Lieutenant  Mayes,  with  his  well-mounted  detachment, 
pressed  hard  upon  the  heels  of  the  Indians  and  overtook  them 
the  following  day.  Seeing  a  small  band  of  Indians,  Mayes 
engaged  them  in  a  running  fight  down  a  great  canyon.  This 
fight  continued  until  the  Indians  reached  a  point  in  the  canyon 
where  the  sides  rise  precipitously  several  hundred  feet.  All 
at  once  a  storm  of  arrows  from  the  rocks  and  trees  overhead 
greeted  the  pursuers.  Too  late,  Mayes  saw  the  ambush.  As 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  147 

he  turned  to  retreat  from  the  death  trap,  he  found  the  passage 
blocked  by  a  hundred  warriors.  The  Indians,  who  had  been 
luring  them  on,  now  turned  and,  reinforced  by  those  who  had 
been  hidden  in  the  rocks  overhead,  rushed  upon  the  soldiers  and 
closed  the  death  trap. 

But  one  man  escaped — the  Mexican  guide,  who  sprang 
from  his  horse  and  fled  up  the  sides  of  the  canyon.  Unob- 
served by  the  Indians,  he  managed  to  hide  in  a  cave,  where  he 
lay  all  day  and  night.  The  Indians,  knowing  he  was  in  the 
neighborhood,  searched  thoroughly  for  him,  but  finally  they 
gave  up  the  hunt  and  departed.  The  next  day  the  guide  made 
his  way  on  foot  to  Presidio  with  the  news  of  the  massacre. 

A  messenger  was  dispatched  on  horseback  through  Paisano 
Pass  to  intercept  the  Fort  Stockton  reinforcements.  This  he 
succeeded  in  doing;  and  although  the  troops  pushed  on  with 
renewed  speed  at  the  news  of  the  massacre,  they  were  unable 
to  overtake  the  Indians,  who  were  by  that  time  safe  with  their 
friends  and  relatives  in  Mexico. 

Outside  of  the  immediate  vicinity  of  El  Paso,  nothing  of 
importance  transpired  in  the  Big  Bend  relative  to  the  Civil 
War;  although  the  results  of  the  campaigns  of  Sibley's  brigade, 
C.  S.  A.,  and  Canby's  Brigade,  U.  S.  A.,  had  direct  bearing 
upon  the  country.  In  May,  1861,  George  W.  Baylor  was  sent 
from  Fort  Clark  to  El  Paso,  to  become  the  adjutant  of  Colonel 
John  R.  Baylor,  his  brother.  The  first  regiment  of  the  Union 
army  against  which  these  brothers  were  called  upon  to  lead 
their  forces  was  the  old  Seventh  Infantry,  to  which  their 
father  had  been  attached  during  his  lifetime.  Before  the  close 
of  the  war,  George  W.  Baylor  rose  to  the  rank  of  Lieutenant- 
Colonel;  and  almost  continually  in  the  years  following  the 
Civil  War,  Colonel  Baylor  was  identified  with  the  Big  Bend, 
as  a  fearless  Indian  fighter  and  Texas  Ranger  captain. 

As  the  months  of  struggle  between  the  states  passed  into 
years,  both  the  passenger  and  freight  traffic  on  the  great  trails 
decreased.  The  settlements  lost  their  prosperity,  and,  one  by 
one,  the  settlers  drifted  away,  either  to  enter  the  army  or  to 
seek  elsewhere  a  livelihood. 


148  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Many  of  the  old  freighters  on  the  Chihuahua  Trail  changed 
their  routes  from  San  Antonio  to  Santa  Fe.  But  even  this  was 
too  hazardous.  John  W.  Burgess,  who  was  one  of  the  first  men 
to  arrive  at  Presidio  with  John  W.  Spencer,  attempted  to  make 
a  trip  from  San  Antonio  to  Santa  Fe.  Like  his  neighbors,  he 
liad  espoused  the  Southern  cause.  His  train  consisted  of 
twenty-two  wagons  and  two  hundred  and  twenty  mules.  When 
he  reached  the  state-line  of  New  Mexico,  his  entire  outfit  was 
captured  by  the  Federals ;  and  by  the  merest  chance,  he,  with 
one  of  his  men,  escaped  on  fleet  horses,  and  eventually  reached 
Presidio  in  a  starving  condition. 

An  effort  was  made  by  the  Confederate  troops  to  punish 
the  Mescalero  Apaches  for  their  recent  misdeeds ;  more  espe- 
cially, by  pursuing  Chief  Nicolas  and  his  band.  Finally,  this 
crafty  old  chief  called  on  Colonel  McCarty  at  Fort  Davis,  and 
offered  to  negotiate  peace  terms.  He  agreed  to  accompany 
Colonel  McCarty  to  El  Paso  and  talk  the  matter  over  with 
Colonel  John  R.  Baylor.  This  was  done;  and  after  a  treaty 
had  been  satisfactorily  arranged,  Nicolas,  accompanied  by 
Colonel  McCarty  and  an  escort  of  soldiers,  began  the  journey 
hack  to  Fort  Davis,  on  the  stage. 

Whether  or  not  Nicolas  had  arranged  a  meeting  place  with 
his  warriors  was  not  known,  but  when  the  party  reached  Barrel 
Springs,  the  first  stage  station  west  of  Fort  Davis,  Nicolas 
jerked  Colonel  McCarty 's  six  shooter  out  of  the  scabbard, 
jumped  from  the  stage,  and  ran  down  the  canyon  where  his 
band  awaited  him.  Unsuspecting  danger,  two  soldiers  followed 
fiim  and  were  killed.  Colonel  McCarty  pursued  Nicolas  a  short 
distance,  but  fearing  an  ambush  gave  up  the  chase.  George  W. 
Baylor  was  then  sending  a  herd  of  contract  beeves  over  the 
trail  to  Fort  Davis,  and  later  in  the  day  word  was  brought  in 
that  Nicolas  and  his  band  had  attacked  and  killed  Baylor's 
herders  and  had  driven  off  these  cattle. 

In  1862,  freighting  and  traveling  over  the  trails  ceased. 
The  able-bodied  men  of  the  country  had  either  gone  to  war  or 
to  Mexico.  The  enforcement  of  Lincoln's  blockade  naturally 
curtailed  transcontinental  shipping,  and  mails  and  imports 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  149 

from  Mexico  were  now  diverted  to  San  Antonio,  by  way  of 
Laredo  and  Brownsville,  on  the  Rio  Grande. 

The  settlements  at  Presidio  and  El  Paso  alone  remained, 
and  to  the  population  of  these  settlements  had  been  added  refu- 
gees from  the  other  communities.  Troops  were  no  longer 
needed  in  the  Big  Bend.  There  was  nothing  in  the  country 
to  protect.  This  was  the  prime  reason  for  the  abandonment 
of  the  Big  Bend,  by  the  Confederates. 

During  all  these  years,  Diedrick  Dutchover  remained  with 
the  mail  company.  He  established  a  small  ranch,  five  miles 
down  Limpia  Canyon  from  the  post,  where  he  attempted  to 
raise  sheep — attempted  to  raise  them,  for  the  Indians  rarely 
failed  to  rob  him.  When  the  post  was  abandoned,  Dutchover, 
who  had  taken  no  part  as  yet  in  the  struggle  between  the 
North  and  the  South,  was  left  in  charge  of  the  post  buildings 
and  of  such  equipment  as  could  not  be  handily  removed. 
Another  reason  for  selecting  Dutchover  as  caretaker  was  that 
he  had  taken  no  part  in  any  of  the  fights  against  the  Indians. 
He  was  considered  by  them  to  be  a  harmless  fellow,  and  he 
would  probably  be  treated  friendly  by  them. 

The  post  at  Fort  Davis  was  built  of  adobe  brick,  and  many 
of  the  out-buildings  and  stables  had  the  conventional  Mexican- 
style  flat  roof,  with  a  parapet  some  three  feet  high,  extending 
above  the  roof  on  all  sides.  Shortly  after  the  Confederate 
troops  left  the  post,  Chief  Nicolas,  with  two  hundred  and  fifty 
Indians,  entered  the  town.  For  some  reason,  Nicolas  was  in 
an  ugly  mood  and  his  actions  were  so  threatening  that  Dutch- 
over  found  it  advisable  to  gather  his  party  and  take  refuge 
on  the  top  of  an  old  building. 

The  refugee  party  consisted  of  Dutchover,  a  Mexican 
woman  with  two  children,  and  four  Americans,  one  of  whom 
was  quite  ill.  Dutchover  expected  the  stage  from  San  Antonio 
any  moment  and  it  was  his  intention  to  send  the  sick  man  to 
a  doctor.  The  only  provisions  they  were  able  to  carry  with 
them  were  a  sack  of  flour  and  two  barrels  of  water.  Fortu- 
nately, on  the  roof  of  the  house  they  found  some  old  wagon- 
wheel  spokes,  with  which  they  built  fires  for  cooking.  Every 


150  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

precaution  was  used  to  hide  the  smoke  and  flames  and  avoid 
betraying  their  position  to  the  Indians,  who,  as  yet,  were  so  busy 
pillaging  the  post  that  they  paid  no  attention  to  Dutchover's 
movements. 

For  two  days  and  nights,  the  refugees  remained  on  the 
housetop.  By  that  time,  the  Indians  grew  tired  of  their  work 
of  destruction  in  the  post  buildings,  and  scattered  over  the 
valleys  and  mountains  in  search  for  stray  cattle  left  by  the 
troops.  The  third  night,  under  cover  of  darkness,  Dutchover 
and  his  party,  with  the  exception  of  the  sick  man,  crept  out  of 
their  place  of  concealment  and  struck  out  for  Presidio,  ninety- 
two  miles  away. 

When  the  stage  arrived,  the  day  after  Dutchover  left,  the 
sick  man  was  dead.  Four  days  later  in  an  exhausted  and 
starving  condition  Dutchover,  and  the  three  Americans,  the 
Mexican  woman  and  children,  staggered  into  Presidio. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  spots  in  the  country  is  that 
known  as  Skillman's  Grove,  where  the  Bloys  Campmeeting 
Association  holds  the  annual  campmeeting.  This  beautiful 
grove  derives  its  name  from  the  original  locator,  Captain  Henry 
Skillman.  While  a  mail  contractor,  Captain  Skillman  lived 
at  Franklin,  the  present  El  Paso,  and  was  a  well-known  char- 
acter there.  As  long  as  the  tide  of  war  was  in  favor  of  the 
Southern  cause,  the  mail-stage  kept  up  communication  between 
the  Confederate  headquarters  at  San  Antonio  and  the  western 
posts.  After  the  abandonment  of  Fort  Davis,  however,  from 
lack  of  protection  against  the  Indians,  it  was  no  longer  pos- 
sible to  get  the  stage  through,  and  it  fell  to  the  lot  of  such  men 
as  Captain  Skillman  to  act  as  couriers  for  the  Confederate 
Army. 

Captain  Skillman  was  a  Kentuckian — a  great  blonde  giant 
with  flowing  beard  and  hair — the  "Kit  Carson  of  the  Big  Bend." 
He  had  been  an  Indian  fighter,  mail  contractor,  guide  and  scout 
for  the  United  States  troops,  and  later  served  with  credit  in  the 
Southern  army.  He  was  highly  esteemed  by  both  the  Amer- 
icans and  Mexicans,  but  had  one  great  fault.  At  rare  inter- 
vals he  drank  heavily,  and  while  under  the  influence  of  liquor 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  151 

would  "shoot  up  the  town"  and  "wind  up"  by  ordering  every- 
one to  close  their  stores,  as  he  wanted  "to  run  the  town"  him- 
self. After  sobering  up,  he  would  return  to  the  scene  of  his 
exuberance,  pay  the  damages,  and  apologize  to  everyone  for 
his  actions. 

But  he  permitted  no  one  else  to  do  likewise.  At  one  time, 
when  a  desperado  attempted  a  similar  action,  and  had  terrified 
everyone,  including  peace  officers,  Skillman  disarmed  him,  gave 
him  a  good  thrashing,  and  ordered  him  out  of  town. 

After  the  Union  army  occupied  Franklin  and  Fort  Bliss, 
which  had  been  established  shortly  after  Fort  Davis,  the  Con- 
federate colony  gathered  in  Mexico,  at  Paso  del  Norte,  or 
Juarez,  as  it  is  known  to-day;  and  it  was  Captain  Skillman's 
duty  to  keep  communication  between  San  Antonio  and  that 
colony. 

The  Union  commander  desired  to  capture  Skillman  and 
his  party,  and  Captain  Albert  H.  French  was  detailed  for  that 
duty.  But  Skillman  was  not  the  kind  of  man  to  be  captured. 
On  the  night  of  April  13,  1864,  Skillman,  with  a  party  of  thirty 
men,  went  into  camp  a  mile  below  Presidio,  in  the  Big  Bend, 
on  the  old  Fortin  road. 

At  the  same  time,  Captain  French  had  gone  into  camp  with 
his  command  near  the  ford  above  Presidio,  opposite  the  Mex- 
ican custom-house.  Diedrick  Dutchover,  seeing  their  camp, 
paid  French  a  visit,  and  French  told  him  his  purpose.  Dutch- 
over  had  enjoyed  years  of  friendship  with  Captain  Skillman, 
but  had  no  knowledge  that  the  Confederate  scout  was  camped 
below  Presidio.  Had  he  had  this  knowledge,  the  affair  might 
have  had  a  different  termination. 

At  midnight,  French,  with  his  command,  slipped  into  the 
unguarded  camp  of  the  Confederates,  who  suspected  no  enemy 
nearer  than  El  Paso.  At  the  signal  from  Captain  French,  the 
Federals  sprang  into  the  midst  of  the  sleeping  Cqn federates 
and  called  for  surrender. 

Skillman,  with  his  gun  in  his  kand,  sprang  up  at  thfc  first 
sound,  barely  awake ;  and  Captain  French  killed  him  the  first 
shot  Then  followed  a  volley  from  the  Federals,  which  killed 


152  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

two  and  wounded  one  of  Skillman's  party.  The  others  sur- 
rendered and  were  taken  to  San  Elizario. 

The  termination  of  the  Civil  War,  in  1865,  saw  the  Big 
Bend,  with  the  exception  of  the  settlements  of  Presidio  and 
El  Paso,  re-occupied  by  the  Indians.  Once  again  the  Indians 
had  established  their  rancherias  in  the  Chisos  and  the  Davis 
Mountains.  On  the  north  slope  of  the  Davis  Mountains,  where 
the  Head  Springs  are  located,  which  to-day  furnish  water  for 
fourteen  thousand  acres  of  irrigated  land  at  Balmorhea,  the 
Apaches  had  again  established  a  rancheria,  and  the  springs 
were  called  San  Solomon  Springs,  after  the  chief  of  that  band. 
In  Limpia  Canyon,  and  as  far  east  as  Horse-head  Crossing,  on 
the  Pecos  River,  old  Espejo,  or  Looking-glass,  ranged  with  his 
warriors  and  hunters  in  undisputed  possession.  But  the  sig- 
nificant fact  was  quite  clear  that  no  Comanches  came  west  of 
the  Pecos.  While  the  Apaches  and  Comanches  were  invet- 
erate enemies,  and  fought  each  other  relentlessly  for  the  pos- 
session of  a  broad  strip  of  country  running  north  and  south 
the  whole  distance  of  the  Big  Bend,  including  the  Davis  and 
Chisos  Mountains,  and  east  to  the  Pecos  River,  still  it  was  not 
the  prowess  of  the  Apaches  which  caused  the  Comanches  to 
give  up  forever  the  Big  Bend. 

The  Comanches  were  a  nomadic  people,  who  depended 
largely  upon  the  buffalo  for  sustenance.  These  animals  never 
frequented  the  Big  Bend.  Then,  too,  after  the  establishment 
of  the  overland  mail  routes  and  numerous  military  posts  be- 
tween San  Antonio  and  El  Paso,  the  constant  travel  of  troops 
to  and  fro,  emigrants  and  freighters,  who  traveled  in  large 
well-armed  parties,  formed  a  southern  boundary  over  which 
the  Comanches  could  not  with  impunity  cross.  This  they  had 
learned  by  bitter  experience  on  occasions  when  small  bands 
more  daring  than  their  fellows  crossed  the  boundary  into 
the  more  thickly  settled  country  to  the  southeast. 

Just  before  the  beginning  of  the  Civil  War,  Captain  L.  S. 
Ross,  later  a  governor  of  Texas,  with  a  mixed  troop  of  cavalry 
and  mounted  frontiersmen,  numbering  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
two  men,  inflicted  such  severe  punishment  on  the  Comanches 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  153 

that  they  were  driven  far  up  into  the  Panhandle  of  Texas 
and  the  present  State  of  Oklahoma.  This  fight  took  place 
several  hundred  miles  east  of  the  Big  Bend,  but  it  was  one  of 
the  direct  causes  of  the  Comanches  relinquishing  their  hold 
upon  Southwest  Texas. 

Hardly  had  Lincoln's  blockade  been  removed  from  that 
great  trans-continental  highway,  when  commerce  began  again 
to  move  along  the  overland  trails.  Once  again,  after  a  silence 
of  five  years,  the  musical  jingle  of  harness  bells  and  the  creak- 
ing of  heavily  laden  wagons,  could  be  heard  in  the  Big  Bend. 

Two  of  the  first  freight  outfits  to  leave  San  Antonio  were 
the  wagons  belonging  to  James  and  John  Edgar,  loaded  with 
government  supplies  and  merchandise,  consigned  from  San 
Antonio  to  El  Paso.  Each  outfit  comprised  twenty  wagons 
and  two  hundred  head  of  mules.  The  two  outfits  traveled  three 
days  apart,  and  they  made  good  time  until  Horse-head  Cross- 
ing was  reached.  About  midway  between  Horse-head  Cross- 
ing and  Escondido  Springs,  the  second  train  under  James 
Edgar  encountered  a  terrific  rain-storm,  which  turned  into  a 
snow  with  the  thermometer  at  zero.  Such  extreme  weather 
coming  at  that  late  time  of  year — April  22 — Edgar  was  wholly 
unprepared  to  meet  it,  and  one  hundred  head  of  mules  froze 
to  death  that  night.  In  this  crippled  condition,  he  pressed  on 
with  half  of  his  outfit  to  Fort  Stockton,  twenty-six  miles  away~ 
There  he  dispatched  a  messenger  to  his  brother,  who  by  that 
time  should  have  reached  Fort  Davis. 

In  the  meantime,  John  Edgar  was  also  having  trouble. 
His  lead  outfit  had  reached  Wild  Rose  Pass,  but  here  he  en- 
countered old  Espejo  and  his  warriors,  numbering  one  hun- 
dred. Being  an  experienced  Indian  fighter,  John  Edgar  cor- 
ralled his  wagons,  preparatory  to  making  a  last  stand.  Old 
Espejo  attempted  to  make  a  treaty  with  the  freighter,  and 
while  doing  so  he  took  inventory  of  the  twenty-five  deter- 
mined, well-armed  frontiersmen  and  their  well-protected  posi- 
tion. Although  the  twenty  loaded  wagons  greatly  aroused 
his  cupidity,  the  wary  old  chief  saw  that  to  gain  them  meant 
the  sacrifice  of  many  warriors — more  warriors  than  he  could 


154  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

afford  to  lose.  Arriving  at  this  conclusion  and  meeting  a 
refusal  to  enter  into  a  treaty,  Espejo  withdrew  with  his  war- 
riors into  a  deeper,  more  rugged  part  of  the  canyon.  Believing 
Espejo  still  planned  an  ambush,  John  Edgar  turned  his  train 
back  to  Fort  Stockton.  On  the  road  he  met  his  brother's  mes- 
senger with  the  story  of  his  disaster.  After  a  short  rest  at  Fort 
Stockton,  the  brothers  stored  part  of  their  wares,  joined  the 
two  trains  together  and  proceeded  unmolested  to  El  Paso. 

In  1866,  the  Postoffice  Department  let  a  new  mail  contract 
for  the  Overland  Daily  Mail.  Fickland  and  Sawyer  were 
awarded  the  contract.  No  two  men  could  have  been  apparently 
more  mismatched  as  partners.  Ben  Fickland  was  economical 
to  parsimony,  while  Sawyer  was  a  light-hearted,  "devil-may- 
care"  fellow.  Both,  however,  were  good  managers  and  busi- 
ness men  notwithstanding  their  different  dispositions. 

One  time  Fickland  stopped  at  Fort  Concho  with  a  large 
drove  of  horses  and  mules,  which  he  was  distributing  along 
the  several  thousand  miles  of  mail  route  covered  by  his  con- 
tract. Some  of  the  animals  needed  shoeing  badly.  Fickland 
went  to  the  commander  of  the  garrison  and  asked  to  have 
his  horses  shod  by  the  post  farrier,  or  blacksmith.  The  com- 
mander replied  that  if  the  farrier  wished  to  do  the  work  and 
had  time,  he  had  permission  to  do  so.  The  stage-man  found 
the  farrier ;  and  took  four  days  to  shoe  all  the  horses. 

When  the  big  job  was  completed  Fickland  proffered  a 
Mexican  dollar  to  the  smith,  saying  as  he  did  so,  "I  want  to 
make  you  a  little  gift  after  all  that  work." 

"Gift,  hell !"  replied  the  farrier,  "you  can't  'gift'  me.  You'll 
pay  me  for  that  work." 

After  considerable  argument,  Fickland  went  to  the  com- 
manding officer  to  prove  that  the  soldier  had  been  ordered  to 
do  the  work.  He  explained  that  had  he  known  there  were  to 
be  charges  he  would  not  have  had  all  the  horses  shod. 

The  commander  pointed  out  that  he  had  said  the  farrier 
could  do  the  job  if  he  cared  to,  and  in  the  end  Fickland  was 
compelled  to  pay  the  soldier  twenty-five  United  States  silver 
dollars. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  155 

After  the  mail  contract  had  been  going  for  a  year  or  so, 
Frederick  P.  Sawyer  was  called  to  Washington  to  explain  why 
the  contractors  were  unable  to  get  the  mail  over  the  route  on 
schedule  time ;  also,  to  explain  why  so  many  of  his  mules  died 
of  disease.  When  Sawyer  was  on  the  witness-stand,  he  painted 
a  fearful  picture  of  the  hardships,  the  Indians,  the  bad  men, 
the  dry  country,  the  lack  of  water,  and  many  other  evils.  In 
astonishment,  a  congressman  asked  him,  if  conditions  were  so 
hard  and  dangerous,  how  he  ever  managed  to  get  drivers  for 
the  coaches. 

To  which  question  Sawyer  replied,  "If  you  would  start  a 
mail  line  to  hell,  I  could  get  all  the  drivers  I  wanted." 

Sawyer,  a  good  mail-coach  man,  liked  to  be  on  the  road, 
with  the  coaches,  and  he  knew  the  outdoor  business ;  while 
Fickland  knew  how  to  make  every  dollar  count  and  never 
allowed  even  a  piece  of  broken  leather  to  be  wasted. 

The  first  stage  to  run  west  out  of  San  Antonio  for  El  Paso, 
under  the  contract  of  Fickland  and  Sawyer,  was  under  charge 
of  Captain  T.  A.  Wilson,  with  Sam  Miller  as  one  of  the  guards. 
Both  men  had  been  in  the  Big  Bend  with  Sibley's  Brigade, 
and  both  men  in  later  years  were  prominent  in  public  affairs 
of  the  Big  Bend. 

On  the  trip  west  they  encountered  signs,  but  had  no  trouble 
with  the  Indians  until  they  reached  Escondido  Springs,  eighteen 
miles  east  of  Fort  Stockton ;  here  the  mail  party  was  rounded 
up  by  old  Espejo,  who  now  had  a  following  of  three  hundred 
and  fifty  Indians. 

Captain  Wilson,  an  old  Indian  fighter  who  had  with  him 
Texans  well  versed  in  Indian  warfare,  quickly  reviewed  the 
situation  and  prepared  to  make  a  stand.  There  were  forty  men 
in  the  party,  and  they  fortified  themselves  on  a  hill,  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  from  the  Indians. 

For  forty-eight  hours  the  Indians  held  them  in  this  posi- 
tion and  occasionally  old  Espejo  would  circle  within  range 
of  the  Texans'  "long"  rifles,  but  at  a  volley  from  the  whites, 
immediately  withdraw  to  a  safe  distance.  On  the  second  day, 


156  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

old  Espejo  tried  to  make  a  treaty — one  of  his  customary  de- 
vices to  pave  the  way  to  later  treachery — but  Captain  Wilson 
was  too  wise  to  fall  into  the  trap.  Furthermore,  there  was 
nothing  about  which  a  treaty  could  be  made.  While  the  In- 
dians held  the  water  they  had  no  food,  and  the  mail-party  had 
food  and  some  water  in  their  canteens.  With  the  full  knowl- 
edge of  this,  and  as  his  attempt  at  making  a  treaty  had  failed, 
Espejo  withdrew. 

The  first  stage-party  to  run  from  El  Paso,  however,  did 
not  fare  so  well  as  the  party  under  Captain  Wilson.  The  east- 
bound  party  was  composed  of  Northern  men,  who  knew  little 
or  nothing  about  Indian  warfare,  and  while  they  had  two 
Mexican  guides,  they  were  not  willing  to  listen  to  their  advice. 
This  party  was  ambushed  in  Wild  Rose  Pass,  by  Chief  Espejo, 
in  the  same  spot  that  John  Edgar's  party  had  been  caught  less 
than  a  month  before.  Had  the  white  men  followed  the  advice 
of  their  Mexican  guides,  they  would  have  come  out  of  the 
ambush  unscathed. 

Espejo  followed  his  usual  tactics  of  rushing  the  party  out 
of  their  lodgment,  but  failing  in  this,  he  offered  to  make  a 
treaty.  The  leader  of  the  mail-party,  a  Mr.  Davis,  agreed, 
and  with  due  solemnity  drew  up  a  formal  treaty  with  the  In- 
dians. 

In  pursuance  of  the  treaty,  Espejo  apparently  withdrew, 
but  when  the  mail  party  emerged  from  their  stronghold,  the 
Indians  attacked  them  with  full  force.  The  first  man  wounded 
was  an  army  officer.  This  happened  when  he  and  an  Irish- 
man became  separated  from  the  others.  Pat  attempted  to 
carry  the  wounded  officer  back  to  the  party,  but  was  forced 
to  lay  down  his  burden  and  fight.  While  Pat  had  his  back 
turned,  feeling  his  case  was  hopeless,  the  officer  placed  a  pistol 
to  his  own  head  and  killed  himself. 

Eventually,  the  Indians  were  beaten  off,  but  not  until  sev- 
eral men  had  been  killed  and  the  stage  and  horses  stolen.  After 
the  Indians  had  retreated,  the  party  walked  into  Fort  Stockton, 
sixty-eight  miles.  Before  the  fight  began  the  Mexican  guides, 
knowing  only  too  well  what  would  happen  when  the  treaty  was 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  157 

made,  deserted  the  party  and  walked  all  the  way  to  San  Felipe 
Springs,  to-day  Del  Rio. 

Fickland  and  Sawyer's  contract  called  for  three  mails  per 
week,  with  Fort  Stockton  as  the  meeting  place  between  San 
Antonio  and  El  Paso,  but  during  1866,  the  year  before  the 
return  of  the  Federal  troops  to  abandoned  posts  along  the 
mail  route,  not  more  than  one  mail  a  week,  each  way,  was  put 
through,  owing  to  the  activities  of  Espejo  and  his  band. 

The  restless  feeling  of  the  people  in  the  more  thickly  set- 
tled sections  of  East  and  Central  Texas  had  not  been  quieted 
by  Lee's  surrender  at  Appomattox.  As  a  result  immigration 
was  heavy,  and  once  again  the  great  trails  resounded  to  the 
creaking  ox- wagons,  the  lowing  of  cattle,  the  crying  of  travel- 
worn,  thirsty  children,  and  the  loud  commands  of  the  frontiers- 
men, as  they  pushed  westward  seeking  more  elbow  room. 

Years  of  raiding  by  the  Apaches  and  Comanches  in  the 
Northern  states  of  Mexico  had  drained  that  country  of  cattle. 
Great  haciendas  embracing  thousands  of  acres  had  been  laid 
waste.  After  the  Comanches  had  been  driven  further  north 
and  the  Indian  agents  had  gained  a  hold,  although  none  too 
firm,  upon  the  various  tribes  coming  under  the  head  of 
Apaches,  these  great  haciendas  in  Mexico  began  to  offer  good 
prices  for  imported  cattle.  These  prices  tempted  the  more 
adventurous  and  hardier  cattlemen  in  Central  Texas  to  drive 
great  herds  of  cattle  over  the  Chihuahua  Trail,  to  this  newly 
established  Mexican  trade.  In  1868,  one  of  the  first  men  to  put 
cattle  over  the  trail  was  Captain  D.  M.  Poer.  He  drove  twelve 
hundred  head  from  Fort  Concho,  which  to-day  is  San  Angelo, 
by  way  of  Fort  Stockton,  Paisano  Pass  and  Presidio,  to  the 
great  Terrazas  Hacienda  in  Chihuahua.  This  drove  of  cattle 
passed  through  the  unsettled  country  unmolested  either  by 
Indians  or  cow-thieves. 

In  the  same  year,  W.  O.  Burnam  left  Burnet  County,  for 
Chifiuahua,  with  a  party  of  twenty-five  neighboring  cowmen, 
and  over  a  thousand  head  of  cattle,  to  trade  for  sheep.  Two 
months  were  spent  on  the  trail,  and  from  the  time  they  left 
the  Pecos  River  until  the  Rio  Grande  was  reached,  they  never 


158  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

saw  a  white  man.  While  at  Burgess  Springs,  or  Charco  de 
Alsate,  just  east  of  Alpine,  seven  or  eight  suspicious-looking 
Mexicans,  with  a  bunch  of  Texas  cattle,  were  observed.  They 
had  evidently  picked  up  "strays"  from  other  herds,  and  Bur- 
nam,  suspecting  that  some  of  his  cattle  were  included,  started  to 
investigate.  In  the  fight  which  followed  the  Mexicans  were 
overcome  and  their  herd  inspected  to  observe  the  brands. 
There  was  not  a  single  Mexican  brand  in  the  outfit,  but  Bur- 
nam  failed  to  find  any  of  his  cattle.  By  necessity,  he  turned 
the  rascals  loose,  although  he  knew  they  had  stolen  their  herd 
from  other  Texan  outfits. 

On  account  of  the  new  trades'  relations  between  the  citizens 
of  the  United  States  and  the  Northern  states  of  Mexico,  and 
the  reopening  of  the  Chihuahua  Trail,  a  friendly  feeling  sprang 
up  between  the  Americans  and  the  Mexicans.  The  Big  Bend 
once  again  was  rapidly  becoming  habitable ;  and  it  needed  but 
the  re-entrance  of  the  United  States  troops  to  keep  in  check  the 
Indians  and  other  reckless,  lawbreaking  elements  for  the  settle- 
ments to  again  become  thriving  and  prosperous. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  159 


CHAPTER  XII 

On  June  29,  1867,  four  troops  of  the  9th  Cavalry,  Lieuten- 
ant-Colonel Wesley  Merritt  commanding,  reoccupied  Fort 
Davis,  after  an  abandonment  of  six  years.  Fort  Davis  now 
for  the  first  time  became  a  regimental  post.  The  Qth  Cavalry 
was  a  negro  regiment  officered  by  white  officers.  Colonel 
Merritt  at  once  started  building  permanent  quarters,  and  for 
the  fortsite,  he  chose  ground  well  above  the  high-water  mark 
in  Limpia  Canyon.  While  the  War  Department  had  acquired 
a  block  of  land  for  the  post  buildings,  a  more  suitable  site  was 
chosen  on  land  owned  by  John  James,  upon  which  the  Govern- 
ment took  a  long  term  lease.  In  1856,  John  James,  a  prominent 
pioneer  and  surveyor,  had  laid  out  a  townsite  for  the  growing 
settlement.  In  some  manner,  not  stated  in  the  records,  James 
obtained  six  hundred  and  forty  acres  adjoining  the  townsite 
from  A.  C.  Lewis,  original  owner.  Lewis  had  obtained  the 
land  when  Texas  was  granting  land  to  settlers.  John  James 
had  also  acquired  the  fortsite  of  Fort  Stockton  and  a  number 
of  other  posts  in  the  West.  He  had  the  distinction  of  surveying, 
platting,  and  recording  more  land  than  any  other  surveyor  in 
the  state. 

Colonel  Merritt  did  his  work  thoroughly,  although  handi- 
capped by  lack  of  tools ;  and,  to-day,  much  of  it  remains  in  a 
well  preserved  state.  In  1854,  while  exploring  the  neighbor- 
ing mountains,  Major  Simonson  had  found  a  quantity  of  pine 
timber,  up  Limpia  Canyon,  eleven  miles  from  the  post.  From 
this  point,  Colonel  Merritt  hauled  logs  and  sawed  them  by  hand 
at  Fort  Davis.  Later,  a  sawmill  was  erected  in  what  is  to-day 
known  as  Sawmill  Canyon,  and  the  sawed  logs  were  brought 
to  the  post  by  ox-teams. 

With  the  troops  at  the  time  they  returned  to  Fort  Davis, 
came  Whitaker  Keesey,  as  head  baker,  and  Sam  R.  Miller,  as 


160  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

butcher.  Both  of  these  men  have  left  the  mark  of  their  work 
upon  the  country. 

Fort  Davis,  under  the  encouragement  and  protection  of  the 
troops,  soon  became  the  most  important  town  west  of  the  Pecos 
River,  until  San  Elizario  was  reached.  It  was  not  long  before 
merchants  opened  their  doors  to  catch  the  passing  trade  over 
the  Chihuahua  Trail  and  the  mail  route.  Hunters  made  it 
their  headquarters,  and  daily  these  silent  mannered  men  came 
into  the  post  leading  their  horses  laden  with  venison,  antelope, 
or  bear  meat  and,  occasionally,  the  honey  from  a  bee-tree.  For 
the  bee  was  the  sure  forerunner  of  settlements.  Various  sorts 
of  contractors  came  in  to  secure  government  contracts  for 
wood  and  forage.  Every  three  months,  the  paymaster  visited 
the  post,  and  usually  he  was  accompanied  by  two  sisters  of 
charity,  who  came  to  collect  money  for  St.  John's  Orphanage, 
at  San  Antonio.  One  of  these  sisters  of  charity,  Sister  Ste- 
phens, of  the  Order  of  the  Incarnate  Word,  is  living  to-day,  in 
San  Antonio. 

Just  west  of  the  parade  grounds,  opposite  the  barracks, 
stood  the  well  built  houses  of  Officers'  Row.  Colonel  Merritt 
lived  in  Number  Seven,  and  in  this  house  he  had  the  first 
Christmas  tree.  Near  the  old  spring  at  Murphy's  Grove,  but 
a  step  from  the  south  walls  of  the  post,  Dan  Murphy  had  his 
home  and  store.  Here  nightly,  the  officers  and  their  wives 
gathered  to  indulge  in  such  amusements  as  the  western  outpost 
afforded.  On  the  other  side  of  the  post,  Abbot  &  Davis,  the 
post  traders,  had  their  commodious  store.  Here,  too,  Patrick 
Murphy,  no  wise  related  to  the  patriarchal  Daniel  Murphy, 
had  reopened  the  doors  of  his  store,  which  had  been  closed 
since  the  first  year  of  the  Civil  War.  In  these  two  famous  old 
trade  emporiums,  gathered  those  rough  and  ready  members 
of  western  society  who  lay  no  claim  to  class  distinction, —  the 
soldier,  the  hunter,  the  trail  driver, —  and  here  could  be  heard, 
deleted  of  all  fancy  phrases,  stories  of  daring,  of  bravery,  of 
human  kindness,  as  well  as  of  human  hate. 

At  the  time  the  troops  re-occupied  Fort  Davis,  Sam  Miller, 
who  had  the  regiment's  beef  contract,  had  brought  in  one 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  161 

hundred  and  sixty-five  head  of  beeves  and  stock  cattle.  While 
these  cattle,  with  one  hundred  and  fifty  work-oxen,  were  being 
herded  by  Mexicans,  in  the  flats  east  of  the  post,  a  band  of 
Apaches  attacked  and  killed  the  herders,  and  stampeded  the 
cattle. 

By  the  time  word  reached  the  post,  the  Indians  had  several 
hours'  start,  but  as  quickly  as  possible  a  detachment  of  troops, 
with  Sam  Miller  as  guide,  started  on  the  well-marked  trail. 
After  killing  enough  beeves  for  their  immediate  wants,  the 
Indians  had  attempted  to  drive  the  remainder;  and  the  trail 
followed  by  the  troops  was  marked  by  the  carcasses  of  cattle, 
which  the  Indians,  in  pure  maliciousness,  had  shot  down  when 
they  could  go  no  further.  The  trail  followed  down  Limpia 
Canyon,  along  the  north  slope  of  the  mountains,  to  Gomez 
Peak,  and  from  there  up  the  Van  Horn  Flats,  to  the  foot  of 
the  Guadalupe  Mountains.  At  this  point,  the  Indian  signs 
showed  that  several  large  parties  had  met,  and  the  captain  in 
charge  of  the  troops  refused  to  follow  them  further.  Against 
the  earnest  protests  of  Miller,  the  chase  was  abandoned  and 
the  party  returned  to  Fort  Davis.  A  short  time  afterward  this 
captain  was  court-martialed  and  cashiered  from  the  army, 
because  he  had  refused  to  go  on. 

This  statement  should  not  be  construed  as  being  a  condem- 
nation of  the  military  in  general.  It  was  no  fault  of  the  officers 
in  command  of  the  western  garrisons  that  troop  movements 
were  slow.  They  were  bound  by  rules  and  regulations  which 
were  meant  for  civilized  warfare,  if  there  is  such  a  thing;  and 
before  orders  could  be  conformed  to  by  the  troops,  the  Indians 
would  have  a  start  which  could  never  be  overcome.  The 
frontiersmen,  also,  had  a  considerable  advantage  over  the 
soldier,  as  they,  like  the  Indian,  carried  no  excess  baggage, 
slept  where  night  overtook  them,  ate  what  they  could,  and 
depended  largely  upon  their  rifles  for  meat ;  while,  on  the  other 
hand,  in  any  considerable  movement  of  soldiers,  it  was  neces- 
sary to  provision  both  men  and  horses,  which  resulted  in  the 
loss  of  much  valuable  time. 

Presidio, —  for  so  had  John  W.  Spencer's  farm  been  named, 


162  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

— although  lacking  troops  to  form  the  base  for  its  prosperity, 
still,  next  to  Fort  Davis,  was  the  most  important  town  on  the 
Chihuahua  Trail.  So  important  had  this  port  of  entry  grown 
that  an  American  custom  house  was  opened.  Captain  Mose 
Kelly,  who  for  some  time  since  the  Civil  War  had  been  em- 
ployed in  the  El  Paso  custom  house,  was  sent  to  Presidio  to 
organize  and  officer  the  new  port  of  entry.  Accompanied  by 
Juan  Ojchoa,  William  Leaton,  and  John  Burgess,  Captain  Kelly 
floated  down  the  Rio  Grande  in  a  boat  from  El  Paso  to  Pre- 
sidio. Kelly  was  a  lively,  kindly,  and  dashing  young  fellow 
and  had  won  a  captaincy  in  the  Union  army  as  a  cavalryman. 
He  rented  two  rooms  from  John  Spencer,  and  established  his 
office  and  his  home  in  them.  Shortly  after  establishing  the 
custom  office,  Captain  Kelly  opened  a  general  merchandise 
store  in  Ojinaga,  or  Presidio  del  Norte,  the  Mexican  port  over- 
looking Presidio,  Texas.  Shortly  afterwards,  Charles  Spencer, 
a  son  of  John  W.  Spencer,  became  interested  in  the  store  with 
Captain  Kelly,  and  he  took  charge  in  Ojinaga.  The  American 
colony  at  Presidio  had  been  strengthened  by  the  addition  of 
several  men  who  later  became  prominent  in  the  affairs  of  the 
country.  Richard  C.  Daily,  who  had  seen  service  in  the 
Mexican  War  and  also  served  with  the  army  of  the  South, 
entered  Presidio  by  way  of  Chihuahua.  William  Russell  came 
about  the  same  time ;  he,  too,  was  a  veteran  of  the  Civil  War. 
Milton  Favor — Don  Milton — and  John  B.  Davis  had  pushed 
out  boldly  from  the  settlement  and  established  ranches  in  the 
mountains.  The  majority  of  these  men  had  married  among 
the  prominent  Mexican  families,  and,  to-day,  their  descend- 
ants are  numbered  among  the  most  worthy  citizens  of  the 
country. 

These  were  Arcadian  days  for  Presidio.  While  the  Indians 
were  raiding  in  every  other  portion  of  the  Big  Bend,  the  little 
colony  remained  undisturbed.  What  a  few  years  before  had 
been  the  cultivated  fields  of  John  W.  Spencer,  was  now  a 
cluster  of  prosperous  stores,  ranged  along  either  side  of  a  long 
street,  which  also  served  as  a  passage  way  for  the  Chihuahua 
Trail  drivers. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  163 

In  the  peaceful  quiet  of  their  patios,  the  families  gathered 
at  night,  with  no  fear  of  being  disturbed  by  the  terrifying  war- 
whoops  of  the  Apaches.  The  doors  were  without  locks,  for 
nobody  stole. 

One  instance,  which  is  a  matter  of  record,  throws  consider- 
able light  upon  the  attitude  of  the  Presidio  pioneers.  With  the 
overthrow  of  the  Maximilian  regime,  the  conditions  in  Ojinaga 
for  a  few  years  were  chaotic.  This  was  in  1867.  Some  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  Mexican  border  towns  fled  across  the  Rio 
Grande  to  Presidio,  Texas,  and  amongst  the  number  were 
quite  a  few  characters  of  questionable  repute. 

The  coming  of  so  many  undesirables  into  the  peaceful  com- 
munity became  the  subject  of  grave  consideration  for  the  city 
fathers.  One  giant  Mexican,  particularly,  was  a  subject  of 
suspicion ;  and  it  was  not  long  before  he  was  caught  entering 
the  living  quarters  of  some  of  the  women  in  the  Spencer  house- 
hold, with  the  intent  of  theft. 

But  a  short  time  before,  Judge  J.  Hubbell,  the  local  justice 
of  the  peace,  had  been  killed  by  the  Indians  at  El  Muerto,  and 
no  new  justice  had  been  elected  to  fill  his  place.  But  action 
was  quick  and  certain.  The  giant  was  seized  and  hauled  before 
a  body  of  law-enforcing  citizens.  Judge  and  jury  were  quickly 
chosen.  John  W.  Spencer  was  made  judge,  and  his  jury  was 
composed  of  Captain  Mose  Kelly,  Larkin  Landrum,  Robert  C. 
Daily,  and  a  number  of  Mexican  citizens,  among  whom  was 
Patricio  Juarez,  the  blacksmith,  a  man  of  powerful  physique. 
After  a  brief  trial,  the  prisoner  was  found  guilty,  and  sentenced 
to  have  one  hundred  lashes  delivered  upon  his  bare  shoulders. 
And  Patricio  was  delegated  to  wield  the  lash. 

The  blacksmith  went  down  to  the  river  bottoms  and  re- 
turned with  an  armful  of  willow  switches;  but  so  powerful 
were  his  strokes  that  the  willows  broke  easily,  and  he  threw 
them  away  in  disgust.  He  stalked  into  his  shop  and  returned 
with  a  heavy  rawhide  bull-whip — the  kind  used  by  the  Chi- 
huahua Trail  drivers.  Doubling  this  in  his  great  fist,  he  de- 
livered the  remaining  blows.  Not  liking  his  first  taste  of 
American  justice,  the  Mexican  meddler  returned  to  the  Mex- 


164  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

ican  side ;  and  the  story  of  the  first  law  on  the  border,  reaching 
others  of  his  kind,  discouraged  any  ambition  they  may  have 
entertained  of  overrunning  the  little  American  colony. 

The  United  States  custom  service  was  not  well  organized 
in  those  days,  and  in  the  afternoons  many  hundreds  of  pack 
mules  forded  the  river  and  drew  up  to  the  American  stores  in 
Presidio.  Later,  under  cover  of  darkness,  they  returned  to 
the  Mexican  side,  their  cargoes  free  of  duty.  The  coin  most 
current  was  the  silver  peso,  or  Mexican  dollar.  The  fact  that 
Presidio  was  the  port  of  entry  for  the  Chihuahua  Trail, 
brought  many  characters  whose  names  are  woven  into  the 
history  of  the  Southwest.  Most  of  the  local  men  had  freight 
outfits  on  the  Trail,  while  such  men  as  Ed  Frobboese,  August 
Santleben,  John  Holly,  Shay  Hogan,  Seferino  Calderon,  at 
regular  intervals,  directed  their  trains  of  ten  to  twenty  wagons 
to  their  camping  places  on  the  Rio  Grande,  near  the  custom 
house. 

While  Presidio  was  unmolested  by  the  Indian  attacks,  other 
portions  of  the  Big  Bend  were  filled  by  marauders.  Once  again 
the  Apaches  saw  the  Big  Bend  wrested  from  their  grip ;  and, 
in  reprisal,  they  left  such  scenes  of  horror  behind  them  that 
any  sympathy  which  might  have  been  felt  for  them,  over  the 
loss  of  their  domains,  was  destroyed. 

John  Burgess  had  secured  a  contract  for  hauling  large 
quantities  of  supplies  from  San  Antonio  to  Fort  Stockton  and 
Fort  Davis.  After  delivering  his  freight,  he  would  continue 
soutli  to  Presidio  del  Norte — his  home — recuperate  his  animals,, 
attend  to  necessary  repairs,  then  load  up  with  grain  and  flour, 
which  he  would  deliver  to  the  posts  on  his  return  trip  to  San 
Antonio. 

The  previous  year  a  considerable  number  of  cattle  had 
been  driven  over  the  Chihuahua  Trail,  but  instead  of  going 
through  Fort  Davis  they  had  gone  down  the  great  valley 
between  the  Davis  Mountains  and  Glass  Mountains,  through 
Paisano  Pass,  and  struck  the  old  Chihuahua  Trail  on  Alamito 
Creek.  When  Burgess  was  loaded  with  grain  for  Fort  Stock- 
ton, he  took  this  short  cut,  by  way  of  Paisano  Pass;  and  the 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  165 

spring  just  east  of  Alpine,  on  the  Kokernot  ranch,  became 
known  as  Burgess'  Spring. 

It  received  the  name  after  Burgess'  encounter  with  Chief 
Leon  and  his  braves.  While  the  wagon  train  was  corralled 
about  the  springs,  Chief  Leon,  who  had  started  on  a  raid  into 
Mexico,  surrounded  the  outfit.  But  Burgess  had  between  thirty 
and  forty  wagons  and  a  corresponding  number  of  men,  which 
caused  the  chief  to  hesitate  to  attack,  and  instead,  send  an 
Indian  for  re-enforcements.  There  had  not  been  a  single  shot 
fired  by  either  side,  and  the  Indians  were  squatting  stolidly 
about  their  camp-fires  fully  aware,  as  were  the  whites,  that  the 
trail-drivers  could  not  escape. 

It  was  the  custom  of  the  wagon-master  to  ride  horseback, 
so  that  he  might  better  oversee  the  progress  of  the  train.  Some- 
times the  line  of  wagons  was  strung  out  for  a  distance  of  two 
or  three  miles.  It  happened  on  this  trip  that  Burgess  was 
riding  a  very  fine  racehorse,  and  that  night,  after  the  Indians 
had  laid  down,  Burgess  quietly  mounted  the  lightest  man  in 
his  party  on  the  racehorse,  tied  the  horse's  feet  in  sacks,  and 
sent  the  man  charging  straight  through  the  Indians'  camp. 

Before  the  Indians  recovered  from  their  surprise,  the  horse- 
man was  safely  through  the  lines,  headed  straight  for  Paisano 
Pass.  The  Indians  pursued  him  on  their  fleetest  ponies,  but 
the  racehorse  easily  outdistanced  them. 

It  was  now  a  question  as  to  which  party's  re-enforcements 
arrived  first.  All  day  the  besieged  and  besiegers  kept  their 
positions,  and  that  night  both  parties  slept  upon  their  arms. 
The  next  morning,  Burgess'  worn-out  party  saw  a  great  cloud 
of  dust  rising  at  the  point  where  Paisano  Canyon  spilled  out 
into  the  grassy  plains.  His  re-enforcements  were  arriving. 
Chief  Leon,  also,  saw  the  cloud  of  dust,  and  his  guttural  com- 
mands to  his  warriors  could  be  heard  in  Burgess'  camp.  A 
moment's  confusion,  a  whirlwind  of  horses,  and  the  Indians 
swept  away  to  the  north  at  full  gallop. 

Burgess'  messenger  had  ridden  his  horse  to  death  twenty 
miles  out  of  Presidio,  and  he  had  run  and  walked  the  remainder 
of  the  distance  in  four  hours. 


166  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

While  the  Kokernot  Spring  was  known  to  the  whites  as 
Burgess'  Spring,  in  the  lingua  franca  of  the  Indian  war  trail, 
it  had  become  known  as  Charco  de  Alsate.  Usually  the  Chi- 
huahua Trail  ran  through  Fort  Davis,  but  after  John  Burgess 
had  opened  up  the  route  through  Paisano  Pass,  this  new  route 
became  quite  popular  among  the  more  intrepid  of  the  trail 
drivers.  It  was  the  same  route  used  by  the  Jumano  Indians, 
by  de  Vaca,  by  de  Espejo,  and  Mendoza,  in  their  travels 
through  the  Big  Bend,  as  well  as  being  the  great  Indian  thor- 
oughfare of  the  middle  nineteenth  century.  Perennial  rains 
had  formed  a  chain  of  water  holes,  or  charcos,  at  the  spring, 
which  led  the  Indians  and  Mexicans  to  refer  to  that  watering- 
place  as  the  Charco.  The  name  Charco  de  Alsate  was  given 
to  it  because  the  most  powerful  chief  on  the  war  trails  at  that 
period  was  the  Apache  chief,  Alsate — a  leader  who  ranked 
with  Bajo  el  Sol,  Guera  Carranza,  Victor io  and  Geronimo,  the 
ablest  Indian  generals  of  their  time. 

We  Americans  have  been  accustomed  to  place  the  Indians 
in  one  category — to  us  there  are  no  good  Indians.  We  go  so 
far  as  to  use  the  word,  Indian,  as  a  synonym  for  every  evil  and 
ferocious  propensity  in  the  human  animal.  When  we  say,  "He 
behaves  like  an  Indian,"  we  infer  that  his  conduct  was  in  some 
manner  uncouth,  or  inhuman.  Being  thus  brought  up  to  regard 
the  Indian,  it  is  very  difficult  to  appreciate  or  understand  the 
attitude  of  the  Mexican  people  toward  the  Red  Man.  Refer- 
ence is  here  made  to  the  common,  or  pilado  Mexican. 

Perhaps  a  parallel  illustration  will  bring  this  point  more 
clearly  to  the  reader.  A  half-dozen  mounted  men  ride  down 
the  main  street  of  a  small  western  town,  surround  the  bank, 
dismount,  and  stage  a  bank  robbery.  It  doesn't  matter  whether 
they  escape  or  are  captured,  the  point  is  they  are  considered 
outlaws.  If  they  should  return  again  and  be  recognized,  there 
would,  no  doubt,  be  a  strong  effort  made  to  capture  them.  Now 
suppose  a  similar  appearing  band  of  mounted  men — good  citi- 
zens, however — should  enter  that  town,  ride  up  to  the  bank, 
dismount  and  enter  that  institution,  how  would  they  be  re- 
garded? They,  too,  were  strangers,  their  behavior  up  to  the 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  167 

time  of  entering  the  bank  had  been  identical  to  that  of  the  first 
party.  Outwardly  their  appearance  and  bearing  was  identical. 
But  they  would  not  be  regarded  as  outlaws. 

So  among  the  Mexicans  there  was  a  differentiation  between 
the  good  and  bad  Indian,  which  we  Americans  never  recog- 
nized. This  seeming  forbearance  on  the  part  of  the  Mexican 
is  explained  by  the  fact  that  a  relationship  existed  between 
them.  Two  or  three  hundred  years  of  civilizing  influences  had 
raised  the  Mexican  to  a  higher  plane  of  existence  than  his 
Indian  cousin.  A  Mexican  himself  will  tell  you,  "Yo  estoy 
puro  Indo!"  ("I  am  pure  Indian!")  That  is,  he  will  tell  you 
this  if  he  has  imbibed  sufficiently  of  mescal. 

Parenthetically,  it  is  well  to  add  that  the  Mexican  manner 
of  judging  between  the  good  Indian  and  the  bad  was  not  always 
based  upon  the  Indian's  moral  status.  It  also  involved  to  a 
greater  or  lesser  degree  a  consideration  of  the  Indian's  ability 
and  strength  to  retaliate  when  he  was  interfered  with.  There- 
fore, when  at  the  head  of  a  score  of  warriors,  Alsate,  chief  of 
the  Mescalero  Apaches,  marched  into  Presidio  del  Norte,  one 
crisp  autumn  morning,  1867,  he  entertained  no  fear  of  being 
molested  by  the  Mexican  authorities. 

The  salutations  which  greeted  him  on  every  side  bore  wit- 
ness to  the  respect  he  elicited.  Carious  children  followed 
mothers  to  the  doors  and  clung  to  the  protecting  skirts,  while 
they  gazed  with  awe  at  the  Indian  chief  about  whom  centered 
many  thrilling  tales,  false  and  true.  Many  times  had  these 
children  seen  the  Apache  chief  thus  enter  Presidio  del  Norte, 
but  never  before  had  they  seen  him  wearing  an  overcoat  of 
the  white  man's  pattern;  they  looked  and  wondered.  What 
unfortunate  Americano  had  crossed  the  trail  of  the  Apache 
brave  ? 

The  procession  of  half-naked  savages  filed  silently  down 
the  street,  the  quick  bird-like  motions  of  their  heads  and  the 
restless  glitter  in  the  eyes  showed  that  the  Indians  noted  every- 
thing, perhaps  in  anticipation  of  the  time  when  they  would 
take  the  war-path  against  the  Nortanos,  to  rob  and  to  plunder 
them  in  a  carnival  of  bloodshed.  The  Indians  filed  past  the 


168  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

casa  in  which  lived  John  Burgess,  who  at  this  time  was  away 
on  the  Chihuahua  Trail,  in  company  with  John  Davis  and 
William  Brooks.  In  common  with  her  neighbors,  Mrs.  Burgess 
came  to  the  door  to  look  curiously  at  the  passing  savages.  She 
gave  a  start,  and  her  eyes  strained  horror-stricken  at  the  tall 
Indian  in  the  overcoat — her  husband's  overcoat ! 

The  Burgess  family  was  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  influ- 
ential in  Presidio  del  Norte.  Mrs.  Burgess  hurried  to  the 
alcalde  with  her  fears  and  suspicions.  The  result  was  that 
Alsate  and  his  band  were  thrown  into  prison,  upon  the  charge 
of  having  murdered  John  Burgess. 

The  day  of  trial  came.  In  sullen  silence,  Alsate  and  his 
band  looked  through  the  bars  of  their  prison.  Alsate  had 
related  to  the  Alcalde  a  strange,  wholly  improbable  story.  The 
Mexican  had  smiled  unbelievingly;  and,  thereafter,  Alsate 
maintained  a  dignified  silence.  Heavily  guarded,  the  Indians 
were  escorted  to  the  juzgado,  where  the  trial  was  to  be  held. 

Presidio  del  Norte  overlooked  the  Rio  Grande  from  a  high 
gravelly  bluff.  As  the  prisoners  were  being  led  to  the  juzgado, 
they  cast  longing  eyes  across  the  River,  to  the  beckoning  hills 
beyond.  With  eyes  inscrutable,  they  watched  a  long  line  of 
freighted  wagons,  with  their  teams  of  eighteen  or  twenty  mules, 
as  they  plowed  through  the  deep  sands  of  the  alluvial  river 
bottom  just  before  crossing  the  stream  to  the  rocky  and  more 
secure  footing  on  the  Mexican  side. 

It  was  a  customary  sight  to  the  guards,  who  hurried  the 
prisoners  to  the  tribunal.  The  court  was  called  to  order,  with 
the  Alcalde  presiding.  The  evidence  of  the  overcoat  was  intro- 
duced. Mrs.  Burgess  swore  to  its  identification.  There  was  a 
settled  air  on  the  face  of  the  Alcalde. 

At  this  juncture,  a  disturbance  broke  out  at  the  door  of 
the  courtroom.  All  present  looked  hastily  around,  expecting 
— perhaps,  a  surprise  attack  by  Alsate's  tribesmen.  But  it  was 
a  white  man — an  Americano.  Mrs.  Burgess  gave  a  cry  of 
relief  as  she  recognized  her  husband. 

The  trial  proceeded  no  further.  Burgess*  appearance  put 
an  end  to  that.  Then  followed  the  trail-drivers'  recital  of  the 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  169 

manner  in  which  Alsate  had  gained  possession  of  the  over- 
coat. 

For  mutual  protection,  Burgess  had  joined  forces  with 
John  Davis  and  William  Brooks.  The  three  outfits  were  loaded 
with  grain  and  corn,  raised  at  Presidio  and  bought  by  the 
Government,  for  the  troops  at  Fort  Stockton.  After  delivering 
their  cargoes,  it  was  customary  to  proceed  to  the  salt  lakes 
beyond  the  Pecos  River,  and  load  with  salt,  which  found  easy 
sale  at  Presidio  del  Norte. 

Up  Alamito  Creek,  through  Paisano  Pass,  into  the  grassy 
plains  beyond,  without  sign  of  the  Indians,  drove  the  freighters. 
But  when  they  drew  near  Charco  de  Alsate,  they  were  halted 
by  a  large  force  of  Apaches,  led  by  Alsate  and  Leon.  Imme- 
diately, the  freighters  formed  a  large  circle  with  their  wagons, 
corralling  their  work-stock  in  the  enclosure  for  protection 
against  arrows  and  to  prevent  them  from  stampeding.  For 
four  hours,  by  every  wile  known  to  the  savage  general,  the 
whites  and  their  teamsters  were  tempted  to  leave  their  im- 
promptu fort.  The  Indians  swept  by  on  their  horses,  then 
formed  in  a  madly  racing  line  which  disappeared  over  the 
nearby  hills.  After  time  had  been  given  the  freighters  to  con- 
clude the  attack  was  abandoned,  the  Indians  swooped  down 
from  another  direction,  thus  hoping  to  catch  the  whites  off 
guard. 

Finally,  becoming  tired  of  the  exhibition,  Burgess  and 
Davis  walked  out  some  distance  from  the  wagon  train,  although 
careful  to  remain  under  the  protecting  cover  of  the  freighters' 
long-rifles,  and,  in  the  commonly  understood  sign  language, 
invited  Alsate  and  Leon  to  a  parley. 

Burgess  told  his  story,  simply,  dramatically  and,  of  course, 
in  Spanish,  every  word  of  which  Alsate  understood.  When 
Burgess  reached  this  point  in  his  narrative  the  discomfited  chief 
shot  a  look  of  understanding  and  hatred  at  the  trail  driver. 
Should  another  meeting  occur,  plainly  there  would  be  a  differ- 
ent story  to  tell. 

When  the  two  chiefs  advanced  to  meet  Burgess  and  Davis, 
the  white  men  drew  their  pistols  which  they  had  concealed,  and 


170  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

under  threats  of  death,  forced  the  chiefs  to  order  their  warriors 
to  withdraw  to  a  distant  hill.  So  well  did  the  bluff  work,  that 
Burgess  stripped  off  his  overcoat  and  presented  it  to  Alsate 
with  a  view  of,  at  least,  partly  placating  the  disgruntled  chief. 
After  reaching  Charco  de  Alsate,  the  freighters  made  them- 
selves safe  from  attack;  and  being  aware  of  this,  Alsate  and 
his  band  gave  up  their  attempt  to  trap  them. 

At  the  close  of  Burgess*  story,  Alsate  and  his  warriors  were 
set  free.  No  thought  was  given  to  the  evident  intention  of  the 
Indians  in  waylaying  the  wagon-train.  Attempts  at  murder, 
unless  successfully  carried  out,  were  not  deemed  important. 

In  justice  to  the  Indians,  however,  it  must  be  admitted  that 
all  of  them  were  not  bad.  To  illustrate :  After  the  re-occupa- 
tion of  Fort  Davis,  the  little  settlement,  located  as  it  was  in  the 
heart  of  the  Apache  country,  stood  the  brunt  of  the  Indian 
attacks.  One  morning,  the  inhabitants  were  awakened  by  the 
war-whoop,  as  the  Apaches  poured  into  the  outskirts  of  the 
town  from  the  nearby  hills  and  canyons.  The  surprise  was 
complete ;  but,  aided  by  the  presence  of  several  large  freight 
outfits  which  had  camped  in  Fort  Davis  on  their  way  over  the 
Chihuahua  Trail,  the  soldiers  and  citizens  managed  to  beat  off 
the  attack  and  inflict  severe  punishment  on  the  marauders. 
Many  dead  and  wounded  Indians  were  left  on  the  ground. 
Among  the  latter  was  a  young  Indian  girl.  She  was  badly 
wounded,  and  would  have  been  taken  to  the  hospital  with  the 
other  wounded  had  not  a  Mrs.  Easton  insisted  on  taking  charge 
of  her.  Mrs.  Easton  finally  nursed  the  young  squaw  back  to 
health,  and  kept  her  for  a  companion  and  servant. 

For  two  years,  Emily,  as  the  girl  was  named,  lived  with  the 
Easton  family.  She  had  grown  accustomed  to  the  ways  of  the 
whites  and  her  stay  among  them  seemed  indefinite.  Mrs. 
Easton's  son,  Lieutenant  Thomas  Easton,  was  a  great  favorite 
with  Emily,  and  in  a  shy,  unobtrusive  way,  she  attended  his 
wants. 

Then  the  Nelsons  moved  to  Fort  Davis.  Immediately, 
Thomas  Easton  was  attracted  to  Mary  Nelson,  an  occurrence 
which  did  not  escape  the  keen  eyes  of  the  Indian  girl.  She 


I.  L.  KLIENMAN 
Presidio,  Texas 


MR.  AND  MRS.  J.  D.  JACKSON 
Of  Alpine,  Texas 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  171 

began  to  act  queerly,  and  for  hours,  at  a  time,  she  would  sit  and 
gaze  at  the  mountains,  as  though  she  was  considering  some 
action  of  which  she  was  uncertain.  The  day  the  engagement 
of  Tom  and  Mary  was  announced,  Emily  disappeared. 

For  some  time,  Mrs.  Easton  hoped  for  Emily's  return,  but 
the  months  stretched  into  a  year,  with  no  word  of  the  girl.  The 
newly  acquired  daughter,  however,  made  up  for  the  loss  of 
Emily ;  but  the  Indian  girl  was  not  forgotten. 

The  Apaches  had  become  more  troublesome  than  usual; 
raids  were  more  frequent  and  increased  in  boldness.  The 
soldiers  were  kept  busy  and  the  post  command  was  constantly 
on  the  lookout  for  an  attack  on  Fort  Davis.  One  night,  during 
this  troublesome  time,  a  sentry  heard  someone  trying  to  pass 
him.  Suspecting  it  might  be  an  Indian,  he  called,  "Halt,  or  I 
fire !"  Instead  of  making  reply,  the  intruder  broke  into  a  run 
towards  the  post  buildings.  The  sentry  took  careful  aim  and 
fired.  The  shot  was  answered  by  a  scream  in  a  feminine  voice. 
The  soldier  rushed  up  to  the  fallen  woman,  who  proved  to  be 
an  Indian  squaw,  and  lifting  her  carefully  in  his  arms,  he 
carried  her  to  the  commanding  officer's  quarters.  It  was  Emily, 
and  she  was  mortally  wounded. 

Mrs.  Easton  was  immediately  sent  for.  Upon  seeing  her 
friend,  Emily,  with  failing  breath,  gasped  out :  "All  my  people 
come  to  kill — I  hear  talk — by  light  of  morning — maybe  you 
know — Tom  no  get  killed — good-bye" — and  the  faithful  Indian 
girl  was  gone.  The  Indians  did  come,  and  in  a  force  sufficient 
to  annihilate  the  unprepared  settlement ;  but  Emily's  warning 
had  been  in  time  to  make  preparation,  and  the  Indians  were 
beaten  back  with  heavy  losses. 

When  the  tide  of  gold-seeking  reached  high- water  mark, 
those  who  failed  in  their  efforts  to  moil  a  fortune  from  the  rocks 
and  sands  of  California,  drifted  eastward  on  the  ebb  tide.  New 
Mexico  and  the  Big  Bend  of  Texas  became  a  haven  for  many 
adventurous  barks.  After  braving  the  perils  of  the  great 
Arizona  deserts,  the  weary  travelers  were  afforded  a  breathing 
spell  in  the  settlements  along  the  Santa  Fe  and  El  Paso-San 
Antonio  Trails,  and  many,  seeing  opportunities  which  they 


172  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

had  failed  to  find  in  the  goldfields  of  California, -remained  in 
this  new  country. 

Heretofore,  immigration  to  Southwest  Texas  had  been 
from  the  older  settled  eastern  sections  of  the  United  States. 
Now,  in  the  recoil  from  the  goldfields,  immigration  flowed  in 
from  the  far  west.  This  was  due  largely  to  the  reason  that 
when  the  emigrants  to  the  goldfields  passed  through  the  Big 
Bend  on  their  way  to  California,  they  crossed  a  country  devoid 
of  settlements  and  trails.  When  they  returned,  on  their  way 
eastward,  they  found  many  towns,  populous  and  thriving. 
Their  stay  in  California  had  weaned  them  of  a  desire  to  return 
to  their  old  homes  in  the  eastern  states ;  the  West  had  gotten 
into  their  blood.  But  little  persuasion,  therefore,  was  necessary 
to  induce  many  of  these  travelers  to  cast  their  lot  with  the 
young  and  optimistical  Southwest. 

It  was  natural  that  many  of  these  newcomers  belonged  to 
that  class  of  adventurers  who  were  not  sticklers  in  the  observ- 
ance of  the  laws,  either  of  their  own  country  or  of  Mexico.  It 
must  be  borne  in  mind  that  in  the  early  days  questions  of  polity 
in  no  way  hampered  the  movements  of  bodies  of  men  or  of 
individuals.  The  seats  of  government, —  Washington,  D.  C, 
and  the  City  of  Mexico,  respectively, —  were  several  thousand 
miles  away,  with  but  a  few  scattered  officials  to  enforce  a 
semblance  of  restraint.  It  was  not  regarded  as  a  moral 
breach  to  become  a  free-trader  or  filibuster,  any  more  than 
it  was  to  become  a  racehorse  man,  a  gambler,  or  a  saloon- 
keeper. 

But  the  administrations  at  Washington  and  the  City  of 
Mexico, —  when  that  republic  had  one, —  were  as  much  opposed 
to  the  smallest  infraction  of  the  laws  along  the  Rio  Grande  as 
they  were  at  either  of  the  above  named  seats  of  authority,  espe- 
cially in  regard  to  filibustering  or  an  avoidance  of  customs 
duty.  So  when  Harry  Hinton,  late  of  the  goldfields,  with 
twenty-five  men,  armed  with  Sharp  buffalo-guns  and  convoying 
a  pack-train  of  valuable  merchandise,  crossed  the  Rio  Grande 
one  dark  night,  unobserved  by  the  handful  of  customs  guards, 
he  felt  no  qualms  of  conscience  on  the  score  of  unpaid  duties. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  173 

The  money  thus  saved  would  add  much  to  their  already  assured 
handsome  profits. 

Straight  for  Chihuahua  City  headed  the  filibusters.  The 
trail  was  free  from  Indians,  weather  conditions  were  favorable, 
and  all  signs  were  propitious.  In  high  spirits,  the  party  entered 
the  city,  displayed  their  goods  to  the  merchants,  and  sold  out 
at  a  price  exceeding  that  anticipated. 

Their  business  satisfactorily  closed,  the  Americans  tarried 
in  the  city  for  a  few  days,  basking  in  the  smiles  of  the  fair 
senoritas,  enjoying  the  plaza  life,  the  siestas,  and  the  quaintness 
of  the  Chihuahua  capital.  They  were  in  no  hurry  to  quit  the 
life  of  ease  and  pleasure  which  their  profits  had  opened  for 
them.  Finally,  however,  Hinton  rounded  up  the  several  mem- 
bers of  the  party  who  had  become  widely  separated  in  pursuing 
their  several  sources  of  pleasure.  Then  something  happened. 
Inexperienced  in  dealing  with  Mexicans,  Hinton  had  failed  to 
"salve  the  palm"  of  the  local  custom  officers.  This  was  an 
oversight  for  which  he  dearly  paid.  Los  Americanos  had 
broken  the  law  and  evaded  the  customs,  therefore  merited 
punishment.  The  first  intimation  the  filibusters  had  of  this 
was  when  a  much-uniformed  Mexican  officer  with  a  squad  of 
bare-footed  soldados,  with  rifles  thrust  forward  in  the  most 
threatening  manner,  surrounded  the  departing  pack-train.  Hin- 
ton attempted  diplomacy ;  it  was  too  late.  To  have  used  their 
fire-arms  would  have  brought  upon  them  the  death  penalty. 
But  one  other  course  remained ;  and,  at  a  low  command  from 
Hinton,  each  man  picked  a  weak  spot  in  the  cordon  of  soldiers. 
Surprising  the  Mexicans  by  the  suddenness  of  their  attack,  the 
Americans  managed  to  escape. 

Between  them  and  the  American  boundary  lay  two  hundred 
miles  of  desert.  Across  this,  Hinton  with  two  companions 
made  his  way.  The  journey  was  one  of  thirst,  hunger,  and 
untold  hardships ;  but,  eventually,  the  Rio  Grande  was  reached, 
and  they  crossed  to  the  Texas  side  a  few  miles  below  Presidio. 

So  relieved  were  they  to  reach  the  United  States  and  the 
protection  of  the  Stars  and  Stripes,  that  they  proceeded  no 
further,  but  cast  themselves  upon  the  ground  in  a  thicket  of 


174  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

tules,  and  dropped  into  an  exhausted  sleep.  Night  came,  the 
moon  rose  full  and  bright,  and  cast  upon  their  haggard,  up- 
turned faces  its  mellow  glow,  but  the  three  Americans  slept  on. 

Technically,  they  should  have  been  safe  from  Mexican 
pursuit,  but  then,  as  to-day,  the  Rio  Grande  furnished  a  boun- 
dary only  in  the  physical  sense.  After  they  had  been  asleep 
for  some  hours,  Hinton  was  awakened  by  feeling  some  object 
being  thrust  over  his  head.  Springing  up  he  gave  the  alarm. 
There  stood  three  Mexicans  who  had  quietly  crept  upon  them 
and  were  attempting  to  put  sacks  over  their  heads.  It  would 
have  been  useless  for  the  Americans  to  inform  the  Mexicans 
that  they  were  on  United  States  soil;  sometimes  explanations 
are  better  made  to  surviving  relatives.  At  least,  so  Hinton 
must  have  thought,  for  when  the  Americans  departed,  they 
left  three  Mexicans  in  the  sleep  from  which  there  is  no 
awakening. 

Eventually,  the  three  white  men  reached  Fort  Stockton. 
Their  filibustering  days  were  over.  Neither  Hinton  nor  his 
companions  ever  learned  the  fate  of  the  other  twenty-two  men. 
Presumably,  most  of  them  reached  the  United  States,  as  the 
two  Governments  were  enjoying  friendly  relations,  and,  at  that 
particular  time,  the  death  penalty  to  the  Americans  who  had 
committed  misdemeanors  on  Mexican  soil,  was  being  pre- 
scribed only  in  extreme  cases. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  175 


CHAPTER  XIII 

Slowly,  but  none  the  less  surely,  the  Indians  were  being 
forced  westward  in  the  Big  Bend.  While  Fort  Davis  was  yet 
the  center  of  attention  of  the  retreating  Mescaleros,  Fort 
Stockton,  the  metropolis  of  the  great  plateau  country  lying 
east  of  the  Davis  Mountains,  enjoyed  a  period  of  uninterrupted 
quiet.  Comanche  Springs,  already  famous  as  a  watering-place 
and  for  being  the  cross  roads  of  the  great  western  trails,  rapidly 
became  a  farming  and  commercial  center. 

In  1868,  such  men  as,  George  M.  Frazier,  Peter  Gallager, 
and  Joseph  Frelander  had  found  the  western  post  a  good 
stopping-place.  The  year  following,  came  Francis  Rooney,  an 
Irishman,  who  left  the  stamp  of  his  name  upon  the  West-of- 
the-Pecos  country.  Caezario  Torres  came  also,  and,  to-day, 
the  great  alamos  and  adobe-brick  buildings  stand  witness  to  the 
energy  of  the  founder  of  the  7D  Ranch. 

For  the  first  time,  the  waters  of  Comanche  Springs  were 
turned  to  productive  use.  Canals,  or  acequias,  were  dug,  into 
which  was  turned  the  precious  life-giving  water,  which  hereto- 
fore had  been  allowed  to  waste  its  virtues  on  useless  salt  grass 
and  tules.  Alfalfa,  corn,  and  other  forage  crops  were  raised. 
Sheep  and  cattle  were  brought  into  the  country  and  grazed  on 
the  stubble-fields  in  the  winter ;  while  in  the  spring  and  summer, 
they  were  herded  on  the  surrounding  plains. 

Not  only  were  the  waters  of  Comanche  Springs  brought  to 
obey  the  will  of  man,  but  Leon  Waterholes,  nine  miles  west 
of  Fort  Stockton,  was  utilized.  George  M.  Frazier  and  George 
Lyle  located  farms  in  Leon  Valley,  where,  to-day,  a  seven- 
thousand-acre  feet  reservoir  stores  water  for  the  three  thou- 
sand and  more  acres  of  farm  lands  in  the  valley. 

The  community  life  in  Fort  Stockton  differed  little  from 
that  in  other  settlements.  At  the  army  post,  three  or  four 
companies  of  troops  were  constantly  stationed.  This  blending 


176  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

of  army  and  civilian  life  produced  a  kaleidoscopic  picture.  The 
pioneers  and  their  families,  the  West  Pointers,  their  wives,  and 
daughters,  presented  a  contrast  which  was  heightened  by  the 
sprinkling  of  Indians,  army  scouts,  cowboys,  and  Mexicans. 

The  prices  of  all  commodities  were  high.  Drygoods  and 
groceries  were  freighted  from  San  Antonio,  a  distance  of  four 
hundred  miles.  Store  and  saloon  usually  occupied  the  same 
building,  and  often  were  to  be  found  in  the  same  large  room. 
Some  of  the  prices  rivaled  the  existing  high  prices  of  to-day — 
butter,  $1.50  per  pound ;  eggs,  $1.00  per  dozen ;  milk,  blue  with 
water,  25  cents  per  quart ;  potatoes,  bacon,  ham,  and  like  staples, 
50  cents  per  pound.  Still,  the  community  was  prosperous.  The 
wealth  of  the  local  ranchmen,  coupled  with  the  Government's 
liberality  in  letting  high-priced  contracts  for  wood,  grain,  hay, 
and  freighting,  offset  the  high  cost  of  living. 

With  the  exception  of  a  trail  which  follows  the  windings 
of  the  Pecos  River  into  New  Mexico,  all  trails  passed  through 
Fort  Stockton.  This  added  largely  to  the  importance  of  that 
settlement.  Usually,  these  travelers  were  cowmen  and  farmers, 
whose  fathers  had  migrated  to  Texas  from  the  states  east  of 
the  Mississippi  River.  They  inherited  the  pioneer  instincts  of 
their  fathers,  which  caused  them  to  move  westward  in  advance 
of  civilization — seeking  more  elbow-room. 

A  page  chosen  here  and  there  from  the  life  of  one  of  these 
particular  old  pioneers,  will  create  a  much  clearer  picture  of 
the  conditions  met  with  and  overcome  by  the  builders  of  the 
West,  than  an  unlimited  indulgence  in  generalizing  statements. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  region  in  Texas,  west  of  the  Pecos 
River,  have  much  in  common  with  the  inhabitants  of  that 
portion  of  New  Mexico  which  lies  immediately  north  of  the 
Big  Bend  and  adjacent  to  the  Pecos  River,  in  that  state.  This 
is  due  largely  to  the  similarity  in  topography,  geology,  and 
climatic  conditions  of  the  two  countries,  which  are  separated 
only  by  an  imaginary  line — the  state  line.  Both  are  cattle  and 
irrigated  farms  countries,  and  many  men  of  the  two  are  asso- 
ciated in  business  enterprises.  Therefore,  an  illustration  which 
holds  good  in  the  one  holds  good  in  the  other. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  177 

In  1868,  Robert  Casey  rounded  up  his  cattle  on  his  Menard 
County  ranch,  packed  his  household  belongings,  put  his  wife 
and  five  children  in  a  covered  wagon,  and  headed  west  for 
New  Mexico.  With  the  help  of  one  man,  a  Mexican,  he  under- 
took to  drive  eighteen  hundred  cattle  through  a  country  in- 
fested by  the  thieving  Apaches,  while  he  depended  upon  Mrs. 
Casey  to  take  care  of  the  children  and  drive  the  wagon. 

Some  time  before,  Casey  had  made  a  trip  to  New  Mexico, 
over  the  same  trail,  so  he  knew  the  location  of  water  and  grass 
along  the  route.  The  Caseys  had  not  traveled  far  when  they 
fell  in  with  another  cow  outfit,  consisting  of  the  owner,  Mr. 
Gooch,  and  two  cowboys.  These  outfits  joined  forces  for 
mutual  protection. 

As  the  party  approached  the  Pecos  River,  they  began  to 
see  Indian  signs.  For  several  nights,  lights  had  been  discern- 
ible in  the  distance,  sometimes  to  the  north  of  the  trail,  at 
other  times  to  the  south.  Mr.  Gooch  ridiculed  the  assertion  of 
Mr.  Casey  that  the  lights  were  Indian  fires  calling  together  the 
different  roving  bands  in  the  neighborhood  for  the  purpose  of 
attacking  their  outfit,  and  he  contended  that  the  lights  came 
from  another  cow  outfit.  In  proof  of  this,  he  volunteered  to 
find  the  camps  and  return  with  a  firebrand. 

The  discussion  was  ended,  however,  one  morning  about 
daylight.  Mrs.  Casey  was  the  first  to  hear  a  low,  rumbling 
noise.  At  first,  she  thought  the  noise  was  thunder,  and  she 
raised  up  in  her  bed  to  see  the  direction  of  the  approaching 
storm.  Clouds  of  dust,  not  of  rain,  met  her  gaze,  and  she 
caught  glimpses  of  dust-hidden  Indian  horsemen,  as  they  raced 
down  full  speed  upon  the  bedding-ground  of  the  cattle.  Robert 
Casey  had  stood  night-guard  over  the  cattle  and  was  sleeping 
peacefully  when  he  was  grabbed  roughly  by  the  shoulder  and 
jerked  to  a  sitting  position  by  Mrs.  Casey. 

"Get  up,  Robert!"  she  cried,  "the  Indians  are  taking  our 
cattle!" 

Instantly,  Casey  was  alive  to  the  situation.  Before  he  had 
reached  his  feet,  he  had  his  gun  in  hand  and  began  shooting. 
Mrs.  Casey  hastily  put  the  children  in  the  wagon,  then  grabbed 


178  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

a  double-barreled  shotgun — -a  muzzle-loader — which  she  began 
to  load.  Being  excited,  however,  she  rammed  the  powder  into 
one  barrel  and  the  shot  into  the  other.  This  harmless  weapon 
she  thrust  into  the  hands  of  the  bewildered  Mexican,  who  soon 
discovered  the  mistake,  and  could  only  use  the  gun  as  a  "bluff" 
throughout  the  fight. 

One  of  the  Gooch  cowboys  had  a  new  suit  of  clothes,  of 
which  he  was  very  proud ;  and,  after  their  efforts  to  move  their 
wagon  closer  to  the  Casey  outfit  had  failed  and  his  companions 
were  retreating  to  the  safety  of  the  Casey  shelter,  he  remarked 
that  he  would  stay  with  his  clothes,  and  quietly  climbed  into 
the  wagon.  Strange  to  say,  he  was  not  molested  by  the  Indians, 
although  they  ransacked  the  back  of  the  wagon,  where  the 
provisions  were  stored. 

With  the  exception  of  Casey,  the  other  men  were  practi- 
cally powerless,  as  they  had  used  most  of  their  ammunition  on 
game.  Single-handed,  he  held  the  Indians  away  from  his  pro- 
visions, although  they  succeeded  in  running  off  thirteen  hundred 
head  of  his  cattle.  In  the  fight,  Casey  wounded  one  Indian. 

Mrs.  Casey  had  a  bunch  of  pet  sheep,  which  the  Indians 
noticed,  and  a  band  of  them  got  off  their  horses  to  drive  these 
sheep  before  them.  When  Mrs.  Casey  saw  what  they  were 
doing,  she  grabbed  up  a  tin  pan  and  ran  out  some  distance  from 
the  wagon  She  beat  on  the  pan  and  called,  "Nannie !  Nannie !" 

When  the  sheep  heard  the  familiar  sound,  which  to  them 
meant  a  generous  supply  of  shelled  corn,  they  turned  upon  their 
Indian  herders,  and,  upsetting  every  Indian  who  attempted  to 
bar  their  progress,  ran  blithely  back  to  their  mistress.  Had 
Mr.  Casey  not  rushed  to  his  wife's  rescue,  she,  too,  would  have 
been  taken  captive. 

The  loss  of  the  cattle  would  not  have  been  felt  so  greatly 
had  the  Indians  not  taken  all  their  work-oxen  as  well.  Travel- 
ing through  the  heart  of  an  unsettled  and  hostile  country,  with 
practically  no  ammunition,  with  few  provisions,  in  the  dead  of 
winter,  the  future  welfare  of  the  little  caravan  was  a  question 
of  grave  consideration. 

But  Robert  Casey  was  not  the  man  to  grumble  at  mis- 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY 

fortune.  With  the  optimism  which  undying  lay  in  the  hearts 
of  those  sturdy  old  pioneers,  he  and  his  wife  gathered  the  few 
straggling  cattle  the  Indians  had  failed  to  run  off,  broke  in  a 
new  team  of  wild  steers,  and  continued  their  westward  journey. 

As  though  by  a  preconcerted  arrangement  with  Fate,  the 
newly-broken  oxen  made  all  the  trouble  they  could.  They 
would  either  sulk  and  refuse  to  pull,  or  they  would  take  a 
running  start,  which  would  land  them  and  the  wagon  in  a  pile 
at  the  bottom  of  an  arroyo  or  gully.  This  was  fine  sport  for  the 
children,  who  shouted  with  glee  at  every  new  disaster.  But 
to  the  pioneer  and  the  worried  mother,  it  brought  home  their 
desperate  situation. 

Up  the  Pecos  River,  to  the  point  where  the  old  Immigrant 
Trail  struck  Pope's  Crossing,  thence  into  New  Mexico,  to 
Fort  Stanton,  struggled  the  brave  little  party.  The  last  three 
weeks  of  the  journey  was  made  without  flour ;  and  upon  reach- 
ing their  destination,  the  children,  seeing  their  first  wheat- 
bread,  thought  it  was  cake  and  offered  to  exchange  their  most 
highly  treasured  keepsakes  for  some  of  it. 

Casey  settled  on  the  Rio  Hondo,  about  twenty-five  miles 
south  of  Fort  Stanton,  and  immediately  began  the  construction 
of  a  house,  barns,  and  corrals.  When  this  work  was  well  under 
way,  he  cleared  and  broke  ground  for  wheat  and  corn.  After 
the  hardships  experienced  on  the  journey  across  the  plains,  the 
new  home  soon  became  the  center  of  a  cheerful  and  contented 
family. 

Surrounding  the  house  and  barns  was  a  high  adobe  wall, 
which  served  at  night  as  a  corral  for  the  cattle.  With  the 
exception  of  two  large  swinging  gates,  which  were  locked  at 
night,  there  was  no  other  opening.  Neither  bear  nor  other  wild 
creatures  could  kill  the  calves,  nor  could  the  Indians  run  off 
the  cattle  without  first  arousing  the  household. 

So  thought  Robert  Casey.  One  morning,  however,  he  went 
out  to  open  the  gates  in  order  that  the  cattle  could  graze  over 
the  hills,  and  he  found  the  corral  empty. 

Upon  investigation,  he  discovered  a  gap  in  the  adobe  wait 
where  the  Indians  had  used  their  rawhide  lariats  for  saws,  by 


180  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

an  Indian  standing  on  either  side  of  the  wall  and  dragging  the 
lariat  back  and  forth  over  the  top,  thus  cutting  through  it  from 
top  to  bottom,  after  which  they  had  pushed  over  the  sawed 
section  of  adobe  and  quietly  drove  the  cattle  through  the  aper- 
ture without  making  a  noise.  Indeed,  it  was  fortunate  that 
Casey  had  not  awakened,  as  moccasined  prints  showed  that  a 
guard  had  been  stationed  at  the  front  and  back  doors  of  the 
house;  and  Casey,  undoubtedly,  would  have  been  killed  had 
he  attempted  to  leave  the  house. 

The  only  source  of  aid  was  Fort  Stanton,  twenty-five  miles 
away.  Casey  rode  to  the  fort  and  made  his  report ;  but  troops, 
who  were  immediately  dispatched  to  run  down  and  capture  the 
Indians,  returned  empty-handed. 

Finally,  Casey,  after  being  depredated  upon  several  times 
by  the  Indians,  and,  growing  discouraged  at  losing  each  herd 
of  cattle  as  fast  as  he  built  it  up,  proposed  to  the  officer  in 
command  at  Fort  Stanton  that  he  might  be  permitted  to  go 
with  the  troops  as  guide  and  scout.  This  was  readily  agreed 
to  by  the  post  commander,  who  was  glad  to  have  the  aid  of 
one  so  well  versed  in  Indian  signs  as  was  the  frontiersman. 

After  traveling  several  days  on  the  Indians'  trail  and  finding 
the  carcasses  of  cows  and  calves,  which  the  Indians  had  killed 
to  eat  while  in  flight,  the  pursuers  lost  the  main  trail  and  were 
debating  as  to  which  way  to  go.  Casey  and  several  of  the 
older  troopers  had  been  sent  out  to  circle  the  end  of  the  trail, 
when  one  of  them  discovered  some  freshly  cut  grass.  From 
this  point,  Casey  wanted  to  go  in  one  direction,  and  the  com- 
manding officer  another. 

When  the  officer  ordered  his  detachment  to  follow  him, 
Casey  rode  off  in  the  direction  he  favored,  muttering  half  to 
himself,  "That's  why  you  never  find  the  Indians.  When  you 
get  on  a  hot  trail,  you  turn  off  in  some  other  direction." 

Hardly  had  he  finished  speaking,  when  up  jumped  what  he 
supposed  to  be  an  Indian,  from  behind  a  clump  of  bear-grass. 
Casey  called  to  the  officer  for  orders,  but  the  detachment  was 
some  distance  away  and  he  was  not  heard.  In  the  meantime, 
the  Indian  was  yelling,  "Cautivo !  Esclavo !"  Casey  thought  he 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  181 

said,  "Cow!  Cow!"  and  began  to  shoot.  Fortunately,  the 
frontiersman's  shots  went  wild ;  and  about  that  time  it  dawned 
upon  him  that  his  target  was  only  an  unarmed  boy  who  was 
crying  "Captive!  Slave!" 

Casey's  firing  attracted  the  attention  of  the  soldiers,  who 
rode  back  to  learn  its  cause,  and  the  Mexican  boy — for  such 
he  proved  to  be — told  his  story.  He  had  been  captured  by  the 
Indians  while  herding  sheep  in  Chihuahua,  Mexico.  He  could 
speak  some  Mexican,  although  the  Indians  never  permitted 
him  to  use  his  own  language,  and  had  often  punished  him 
because  he  persisted  in  using  it.  His  story  was  typical  of 
Mexican  captives.  He  told  of  the  time  when  he  was  tied  to  a 
post  to  be  shot,  because  he  would  not  obey  his  savage  master, 
and  an  Indian  squaw  saved  his  life  by  giving  a  red  blanket  for 
him.  Across  his  forehead  was  a  deep  mark,  caused  by  a  rope 
which  he  used  to- secure  a  pack  on  his  back  when  the  Indians 
forced  him  to  carry  heavy  burdens. 

With  the  one  exception  of  the  squaw  who  had  saved  his 
life,  Timio,  the  Mexican  boy,  feared  the  sight  of  the  Indians. 
He  was  given  to  Robert  Casey,  who  cared  for  him.  After  the 
death  of  the  old  pioneer,  one  of  Casey's  sons  took  him,  and, 
to-day,  Timio,  very  old  and  feeble,  lives  upon  Casey's  New 
Mexico  ranch  which  is  located  on  the  same  spot  settled  by 
Robert  Casey.  At  one  time,  Jose  de  la  Paz,  an  Apache-Mexican 
renegade  chief,  offered  Robert  Casey  three  fine  horses  for 
Timio,  and  the  boy  was  greatly  frightened  for  fear  that  Casey 
would  make  the  trade. 

Close  questioning  of  the  Mexican  boy  disclosed  the  fact  that 
he  and  several  of  the  Indian  bucks  had  been  grazing  their 
horses.  Timio  cut  the  grass  while  the  bucks  looked  on.  After 
a  time  they  all  became  drowsy  and  fell  asleep.  Timio,  taking 
advantage  of  this,  fell  asleep  also.  Evidently,  the  coming 
of  the  soldiers  had  awakened  and  alarmed  the  Indians,  who 
did  not  have  time  to  find  and  warn  Timio  before  they  fled. 

After  obtaining  all  the  facts  possible  from  Timio  in  regard 
to  the  whereabouts  of  the  Indians,  the  soldiers  followed  his 
guidance  over  a  rise  into  a  canyon.  There,  spread  out  before 


182  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

them  with  the  camp-fires*  smoke  curling  lazily  up  into  the 
sky,  the  squaws  busying,  equally  lazily,  about  their  duties, 
and  children  of  every  size  and  description  playing  about  the 
camp,  the  watchers  saw  the  Indian  village.  No  warriors  were 
in  sight,  but  thinking  possibly  they  might  be  hidden  in  the 
low,  oval-shaped  tepees,  the  whites  wasted  no  time  on  the 
picturesqueness  of  the  scene,  but  charged,  yelling  and  shooting, 
straight  down  upon  the  village. 

Robert  Casey,  on  his  swiftest  saddle  mule,  was  in  the 
lead,  and  was  the  first  to  reach  the  tepees.  The  women  and 
children,  at  the  first  sound  of  the  charge,  huddled  together  or 
scurried  into  the  nearest  tepees,  seeking  escape  from  the 
whistling  bullets.  After  searching  several  tepees  for  possible 
bushwhackers,  and  failing  to  find  them,  Casey  raised  his  hand 
and  called  to  the  shooting  soldiers  to  cease  firing.  The  order 
was  quickly  obeyed. 

With  the  true  instincts  of  the  child,  no  matter  what  the 
color,  the  little  Indian  children  ran  up  to  Casey,  seeing  in 
him  a  protector,  and,  catching  him  about  the  legs,  fairly 
swarmed  over  him,  jabbering  at  him  in  their  shrill,  unintelli- 
gible lingua. 

One  squaw,  at  the  outset,  had  jumped  on  a  large  sorrel 
horse  and  broke  for  the  hills.  But  the  soldiers  shot  the  horse 
from  under  her.  She  then  tried  to  escape  on  foot,  but  by 
that  time  the  troops  had  formed  a  cordon  about  the  village, 
and  they  drove  her  back. 

It  may  seem  remarkable  that  no  one  was  wounded  nor 
killed  in  the  charge.  The  soldiers  shot  only  to  frighten  the 
defenseless  women  and  children.  Had  a  warrior  appeared, 
no  doubt  he  would  have  been  riddled  with  bullets.  Robert 
Casey  was  looked  upon  by  the  Indians  as  being  their  preserver 
and  protector — a  matter  which  proved,  later,  to  be  of  much 
importance  to  him. 

The  surprise  of  the  village  wa's  complete.  When  the 
bucks  discovered  the  soldiers  so  near  to  them,  they  were 
forced  to  flee  in  another  direction,  and  had  no  time  in  which 
to  warn  the  village  of  danger. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  183 

A  peculiar  custom  of  the  Mescalero  Apaches  was  brought 
to  the  attention  of  Casey  upon  his  return  to  Fort  Stahton. 
The  squaws  and  children  were  taken  to  the  post  and  held  there, 
with  the  view  of  persuading  the  bucks  to  come  in  for  a  council. 
Among  the  squaws  was  one  who  had  been  bitten  by  a  rattle- 
snake. She  had  been  left  in  an  abandoned  camp,  with  an 
earthen  vessel  of  water  and  a  small  quantity  of  jerked  meat 
to  stay  her  thirst  and  hunger  until  she  should  die. 

Upon  reaching  the  army  post,  this  squaw  was  placed  in  a 
house  under  the  care  of  several  other  squaws.  The  sentry,  on 
duty  not  far  away,  saw  the  squaws  rush  suddenly  from  the 
house,  and,  try  as  he  would,  he  could  not  prevail  upon  them 
to  return.  With  some  impatience,  he  entered  the  room  to  in- 
vestigate, and  found  the  sick  squaw  had  died.  It  was  custom- 
ary in  camp  when  a  death  occurred  to  move  to  another  spot. 
The  military  authorities  exerted  all  their  persuasive  powers, 
but  were  unable  to  induce  the  Indians  to  return  to  the  cabin 
formerly  occupied  by  the  snake-bitten  squaw. 

The  captured  squaws  and  children  were  comfortably  quar- 
tered at  Fort  Stanton,  and  a  systematic  effort  made  to  induce 
the  bucks  to  come  in.  The  squaws  were  fed,  clothed,  and 
otherwise  well  treated.  After  several  months  had  passed, 
one  of  them  was  dressed  up  and  given  a  mule,  loaded  with 
presents  and  blankets,  and  told  to  go  out,  find  her  buck,  and 
bring  him  back  with  her. 

This  squaw  was  never  heard  from.  In  a  short  time,  an- 
other squaw  was  sent  out,  and  returned  later  on  foot.  She 
gave  as  excuse  that  her  mule  broke  away  from  her.  For  a 
second  time,  this  squaw  was  sent  out;  and,  before  long,  she 
returned,  bringing  several  bucks.  These  were  well  fed  and 
cared  for,  and  sent  out  in  like  manner,  until  the  whole  band 
was  induced  to  come  in.  The  Government  set  aside  a  reserva- 
tion for  these  Indians,  and  monthly  rations  were  issued  to 
them.  To-day,  this  is  known  as  the  Mescalero  Apache  Indian 
Reservation,  and  lies  principally  in  Otero  County,  New 
Mexico. 

The  establishment  of  this  reservation  did  much  to  free 


184  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

the  Big  Bend  of  Texas  from  Indian  depredations.  It  enabled 
the  Indian  agents  to  keep  in  closer  touch  with  the  Govern- 
ment's wards,  and  to  see  that  those  returning,  after  leaving  the 
reservation  on  raids,  were  properly  punished. 

Up  to  the  time  of  this  chase  after  the  Indians,  in  which 
he  acted  as  scout,  Robert  Casey  had  never  been  able  to  keep 
cattle  or  horses  on  his  ranch  any  great  length  of  time.  The 
Indians  would  steal  even  the  milch-calves;  and,  at  one  time, 
so  said  Timio,  the  Mexican,  they  had  planned  to  steal  the 
two  young  daughters  of  Casey.  But  after  Casey  had  caused 
the  firing  to  cease  at  the  attack  of  the  Indian  village,  the 
Apaches  made  him  a  promise  never  again  to  harm  him  or  his 
property.  Often  the  Indians  would  break  out  on  the  war- 
path, and  steal  from  the  ranchmen  below  and  above  the  Casey 
ranch,  but  never  did  they  molest  the  Caseys. 

That  the  old  pioneer  had  the  respect  and  esteem  of  the 
Indians  is  illustrated  by  a  story  told  by  his  daughter,  Mrs. 
J.  L.  Moore,  of  Balmorhea,  Texas.  At  the  time  of  this  occur- 
rence, she  was  six  years  old.  She  was  staying  with  an  officer's 
wife,  at  Fort  Stanton,  and  Robert  Casey  often  came  to  the 
post.  Mrs.  Moore  says,  "When  Father  came  to  Fort  Stanton, 
the  little  Indians,  even  at  that  age,  evincing  that  keenness  of 
eyesight  for  which  they  are  famous,  would  spy  him  before  I 
did,  and  run,  pell-mell,  to  meet  him.  Father  would  stop  his 
team  and  take  them  into  the  wagon  with  him,  after  which  he 
would  drive  slowly  along,  smiling  in  reply  to  their  excited 
jabbering.  They  seemed  to  think  that  they  had  more  right  to 
him  than  I  had." 

Up  to  the  time  of  the  establishment  of  the  Mescalero 
Apache  Indian  Reservation,  1869,  the  troops,  stationed  along 
the  overland  mail  route  from  San  Antonio  to  El  Paso,  were 
kept  constantly  in  the  field.  This  applied  more  especially  to 
the  troops  stationed  at  Fort  Stockton  and  Fort  Davis. 

From  the  day  his  command  had  reached  Fort  Davis, 
Colonel  Wesley  Merritt  had  been  erecting  post  buildings  and 
otherwise  improving  his  station.  This  work  was  not  carried 
on  without  constant  danger  from  Apache  ambush,  and,  almost 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  185 

daily,  some  unpleasant  incident  took  place  which  brought  to 
the  notice  of  the  post  commander  the  constant  watchfulness 
of  the  red  marauders. 

In  examining  the  records  covering  the  Indian  depredations 
for  a  period  of  twenty  years — for  which  later  the  Government 
paid  the  early  settlers  millions  of  dollars  in  indemnities — one 
is  astonished  at  the  number  of  times  certain  of  these  old  pioneers 
had  all  their  cattle  and  other  belongings  taken  from  them  in  a 
single  night's  work  of  the  Apaches. 

Perhaps  Dietrick  Dutchover — whose  name  had  been  short- 
ened from  Dutchallover — was  the  most  persistently  raided 
settler  in  the  Big  Bend  country.  For  one  thing,  his  ranch  was 
located  in  Limpia  Canyon,  in  easy  striking  distance  of  the 
Indian  trails  leading  to  and  from  New  Mexico.  Another 
potent  factor  which  caused  the  Indians  to  have  no  fear  of  him, 
was  their  knowledge  that  he  had  not  been  an  active  belligerent 
in  the  Civil  War  and  never  carried  a  gun. 

Dutchover  had  a  hauling  contract  with  the  quartermaster 
department,  at  Fort  Davis,  to  haul  vigers — heavy  rafters — 
from  the  post  sawmill,  twenty-five  miles  up  Limpia,  in  Sawmill 
Canyon.  A  squad  of  soldiers  was  stationed  at  the  sawmill, 
to  protect  it,  and  Dutchover  and  his  men  were  camped  near 
them  for  protection.  Notwithstanding  this  fact,  the  Mescaleros 
slipped  up  to  the  corral,  where  the  work  oxen  were  kept  at 
night,  and  managed  to  steal  thirty  of  them.  The  soldiers  pur- 
sued them  the  following  morning,  but  failed  to  get  near  enough 
to  the  Indians  to  strike  a  "warm"  trail. 

Not  long  after  this  theft,  five  Mescaleros  passed  by  the 
Dutchover  ranch,  four  miles  from  the  post,  and  drove  off  fifty 
head  of  cattle.  Again  the  Indians  escaped,  although  a  detach- 
ment of  troops  was  sent  after  them. 

Prior  to  1871,  the  only  effort  made  to  use  the  water  from 
Head  Spring  and  Phantom  Lake,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Davis  Mountains,  was  by  a  few  scattered  Mexicans.  In  this 
year,  however,  the  beautiful  Toy  ah  Valley — the  valley  of 
flowers — attracted  the  attention  of  Sam  Miller,  George  B. 
and  Robert  E.  Lyle,  and  Daniel  Murphy.  Lyle  was  the  first 


186  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

American  to  use  the  waters  from  Toyah  Creek  for  irrigation 
purposes.  His  farm  was  near  Victorio  or  La  Loma — the  hill — 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  down  the  valley  from  Head  Springs. 
But  it  was  Sam  Miller  who  first  located  Head  Springs,  or,  as 
it  was  named  then,  San  Solomon  Springs,  the  name  being 
taken  from  a  locally  famous  Mescalero  Apache  chief. 

Daniel  Murphy,  who  had  arrived  at  Fort  Davis  shortly 
after  the  reoccupation  of  the  post  by  the  Eighth  Cavalry,  also 
located  a  farm  in  Toyah  Valley,  at  La  Mata,  ten  miles  down 
the  valley  from  San  Solomon  Springs.  To-day,  the  canal  he 
built  in  that  first  year  is  used  by  the  farmers  at  Balmorhea. 

The  coming  of  Miller  and  Murphy  brought  on  a  water- 
right  controversy,  which,  in  later  years,  developed  into  a  water 
feud.  But,  for  several  years,  the  two  owners  kept  an  agree- 
ment to  divide  the  water  equally  between  them. 

While  Murphy  maintained  his  home  at  Fort  Davis,  he 
spent  considerable  time  in  Toyah  Valley,  looking  after  his 
farm  and  cattle. .  In  time,  he  built  a  ranch  headquarters  on 
the  opposite  side  of  Toyah  Creek  from  Miller's  farm.  Mr.  H. 
Huelster,  who  worked  for  Murphy  in  the  early  days,  de- 
scribes Murphy's  ranch  house  as  being  of  adobe  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  stone  corral,  ten  feet  high,  large  enough  to  ac- 
commodate three  hundred  cattle  or  horses.  Into  this  corral 
the  herd  was  driven  at  night.  Mr.  Huelster  says  that  he  has 
seen  Mr.  Murphy  sit  on  one  of  the  sheds  or  outhouses,  where 
he  could  view  all  his  cattle,  and,  laboriously,  count  them,  over 
and  over.  If  one  was  missing,  the  Mexican  herders  were  sent 
out  to  look  for  it. 

The  first  year  after  Murphy  had  located  his  ranch  near 
San  Solomon's  Springs,  both  he  and  Miller  had  a  large  crop 
of  wheat,  and  between  the  two  farms,  they  were  using  all 
the  available  water.  Further  down  the  valley,  at  the  present 
town  of  Saragosa,  there  was  a  settlement  of  Mexican  farm- 
ers. It  was  a  dry  year,  and,  to  live,  all  had  to  have  water. 

Ed  Brady,  the  seventeen-year-old  stepson  of  Murphy,  with 
Jim  Riley,  a  boy  two  years  his  senior,  was  living  at  the  Murphy 
ranch,  taking  care  of  the  wheat  crop  and  the  cattle.  Murphy 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  187 

was  at  Fort  Davis,  but  Sam  Miller  was  living  on  his  farm 
across  the  Toyah  Creek.  A  dam  had  been  thrown  across  the 
creek  between  the  two  farms,  from  which  each  owner  took 
his  water. 

One  day  a  Mexican  brought  to  Sam  Miller  a  letter  which 
stated  that  if  the  Americans  did  not  let  the  water  come  down 
the  creek  the  Mexican  farmers  down  the  valley  would  come 
in  force  and  tear  down  the  dam.  As  the  water  belonged  to 
the  men  who  had  located  it,  Miller  consulted  with  the  boys 
on  the  Murphy  farm  and  they  decided  to  fight  for  it. 

Miller  had  two  white  men  working  for  him,  which  made  a 
force  of  five  men  to  stand  off  the  Mexican  mob. 

"How  are  you  boys  fixed  for  ammunition?"  asked  Miller. 

"We've  got  a  thousand  rounds,"  informed  Brady,  eagerly ; 
the  boys  were  spoiling  for  a  fight. 

"All  right.  Build  a  breastwork  of  adobe  on  top  of  your 
house,  and  get  up  there  with  your  guns  and  cartridges.  If  you 
see  any  Mexicans  coming,  shoot.  Don't  ask  any  questions — 
just  fire  away." 

Then  Miller  returned  to  his  side  of  the  creek,  to  clear  his 
house-top  for  action. 

By  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  all  was  in  readiness  for 
the  expected  attack.  With  eyes  strained  down  the  valley,  the 
two  boys  waited  expectantly  and  impatiently.  They  finally 
decided  that  the  Mexicans  had  postponed  their  attack  until 
darkness  came  to  their  aid  and  they  could  creep  up  the  bed  of 
the  creek,  in  the  shadows  of  the  tules  or  along  in  the  purple 
black  of  the  banks.  With  the  coming  of  night,  the  boys  stood 
guard  with  unabated  watchfulness.  They  listened  for  a  step — • 
for  the  sound  of  crunching  gravel  under  foot — with  guns  ready, 
anxious  for  a  skirmish. 

So  intent  had  they  been  on  watching  for  the  Mexicans  that 
neither  of  the  boys  had  noticed  gathering  clouds  over  the 
mountains.  Suddenly,  great  cooling  drops  began  to  fall, 
slowly  at  first,  then  more  rapidly,  until  with  a  burst  of  thunder- 
claps, a  storm  was  upon  them.  The  boys  retreated  hastily 
from  their  barracks,  although  not  before  they  were  drenched 


188  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

to  the  skin.  Wet  and  shivering,  they  huddled  in  the  house. 
Still  the  rain  fell  in  increasing  torrents.  It  rained  all  night; 
all  the  next  day ;  and  the  next.  The  whole  valley  was  a  solid 
sheet  of  water;  the  adobe  buildings,  which  were  not  built  to 
withstand  such  storms,  began  to  crumble  and  to  melt  away. 
The  Mexican  farmers  got  water  aplenty;  and  there  was  no 
fight. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  189 


CHAPTER  XIV 

The  dangers  and  difficulties  attendant  to  operating  a  trans- 
continental mail  line  is  well  described  in  an  article  written  by 
C.  Babock,  in  the  Texas  Almanac,  published  January  I,  1870. 

Relative  to  the  San  Antonio-El  Paso  mail  line,  it  says, 
"This  line  starts  from  San  Antonio  and  runs  via  Boerne, 
Fredericksburg,  Loyal  Valley,  Fort  Concho,  Camp  Stockton 
(Fort  Stockton),  Fort  Davis,  Fort  Quitman,  Fort  Bliss,  to 
El  Paso,  a  distance  of  735  miles,  carries  the  United  States  mail 
and  passengers  weekly.  .  .  .  From  Fort  Davis  to  Presidio 
del  Norte,  a  distance  of  100  miles  (this  distance  applies  to 
the  old  mail  road),  there  is  a  weekly  line  carrying  mail  and 
passengers. 

"Entirely  along  this  portion  of  the  line  the  Comanches 
and  Apaches,  the  most  troublesome  and  bloodthirsty  tribes  of 
Indians,  frequently  commit  severe  depredations,  not  only  to 
the  mail  line,  but  to  the  government  trains  and  droves  of  cattle 
passing  through  the  country.  They  frequently,  by  their  skill 
(if  it  may  be  called  such)  stampede  every  hoof  of  stock  be- 
longing to  a  mail  station,  and  more  frequently,  by  the  same 
means,  manage  to  get  possession  of  a  whole  cavayard  (caval- 
lado)  of  mules  belonging  to  a  government  train,  thus  leaving 
the  train  and  wagoners  at  a  complete  standstill,  their  train  being 
loaded  with  stores  for  the  different  military  posts  along  the 
lines,  and  they  in  a  wild  Indian  country  without  food  or  wa- 
ter. As  a  matter  of  consequence,  great  suffering  on  the  part 
of  the  train  employees  is  occasioned,  as  well  as  for  the  stores 
and  by  the  troops  for  whom  such  stores  are  designed. 

"The  Indians,  thus  far,  have  only  captured  three  mails 
since  the  establishment  of  this  line,  the  managers  using  every 
effort  to  guard  against  capture,  etc.  We  are  informed  and 
see  by  various  accounts  in  newspapers,  that  these  Indian  dep- 


190  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

redations  are  frequently  committed  by  small  parties  of  In- 
dians. Still,  while  they  are  small,  the  United  States  forces  to 
watch  them  are  much  smaller,  which  the  Indians  are  smart 
enough  to  know — hence  the  casualties. 

"This  line  is  under  the  supervision  of  B.  F.  Ficklin,  who  is 
the  same  man  that  first  established  the  pony  express  between 
San  Francisco  and  the  States,  and  who,  it  may  be  said,  was 
indirectly  instrumental  in  the  building  of  the  Union  and  Cen- 
tral Pacific  Railroads.  We  trust  that  his  advent  in  Western 
Texas  may  prove  means  of  an  early  construction  of  a  South- 
ern Pacific  Railroad.  Mr.  Ficklin  is  an  experienced  frontiers- 
man, mail  contractor,  and  stage  man,  and  we  think  and  expect 
much  will  be  accomplished  by  him  for  the  settling  up  and  de- 
veloping the  many  resources  of  this  fine  country." 

Ficklin  and  Sawyer  had  the  overland  mail  contracts  which 
covered  the  entire  Southwestern  part  of  the  United  States, 
both  on  mail  lines  and  branches.  The  various  divisions  of* 
these  lines  were  sub-contracted,  but  at  all  times  were  super- 
vised and  inspected  by  Ficklin  and  Sawyer.  On  the  whole,  the 
contracts  were  filled  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  Postorfice  De- 
partment; but  in  1870,  complaint  was  made  to  the  department 
by  several  of  the  larger  towns  along  the  route  for  neglect  of 
the  Mail  Company  to  get  the  required  number  of  mails  through 
to  their  destination.  W.  W.  Mills  and  James  A.  Zabriskie,  of 
El  Paso,  represented  the  complainants  at  Washington.  The 
charge  was  made,  and  proved,  that  in  some  instances  post- 
masters along  the  route  signed  up  for  mails  which  had  never 
arrived.  As  a  result  of  the  investigations,  the  Mail  Company 
was  penalized  several  thousand  dollars,  and  the  situation  was 
considerably  bettered. 

The  concurrent  opinions  of  the  passengers  who  traveled 
on  these  great  mail  and  passenger  routes,  as  to  the  characteris- 
tics of  the  typical  stage  driver,  is  well  expressed  in  a  descrip- 
tion of  them  given  by  W.  W.  Mills,  in  relating  one  memorable 
trip  from  El  Paso  to  San  Antonio,  accompanied  by  Mrs.  Mills. 
The  other  passengers  on  the  stage  were  Judge  Charles  H. 
Howard,  who  was  killed  in  the  Salt  Lake  War,  in  1877;  and 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  191 

a  young  St.  Louis  lawyer,  who  was  receiving  his  first  lesson 
in  frontier  life  and  customs. 

In  substance,  Colonel  Mills  says :  "If  I  desired  to  learn  a 
man's  true  character,  I  would  take  a  long  day-and-night  jour- 
ney with  him  in  a  stage-coach.  The  lack  of  sleep  and  other 
annoyances,  vexations,  and  privations,  bring  out,  at  times,  all 
the  ill  nature  and  selfishness  one  may  possess;  and,  again, 
when  everything  goes  smoothly  and  all  are  moving  leisurely 
and  silently  over  some  long  stretch  of  prairie  or  plain,  and  the 
weather  is  pleasant,  men  appear  to  cast  all  cares  and  reserve 
to  the  winds  and  converse  with  each  other  more  frankly  and 
confidentially  than  elsewhere. 

"Here,  and  during  other  like  experiences,  Mrs.  Mills  made 
the  acquaintance  of  the  stage  driver — a  character  difficult  to 
describe.  He  possessed  the  courage  of  the  soldier  and  some- 
thing more.  The  soldier  goes  where  he  is  told  to  go,  and 
fights  when  he  is  told  to  fight,  but  he  has  little  anxiety  or  re- 
sponsibility. The  stage  driver,  on  the  other  hand,  had  to  be 
as  alert  and  thoughtful  as  a  general.  There  was  not  only  his 
duty  to  his  employers,  but  his  responsibility  for  the  mails  (he 
was  a  sworn  officer  of  the  Government)  ;  and  the  lives  of 
passengers  often  depended  upon  his  knowledge  of  the  country 
and  the  Indian  character,  as  well  as  his  quick  and  correct  judg- 
ment as  to  what  to  do  in  emergencies.  Like  the  sailor,  he  was 
something  of  a  fatalist ;  but  he  believed  in  using  all  possible 
means  to  protect  himself  and  those  under  his  charge. 

"Your  stage  driver  was  usually  of  a  serious,  almost  sad, 
disposition;  inclined  to  be  reticent,  particularly  about  himself 
and  his  former  life;  and  his  surname  was  seldom  mentioned 
either  by  himself  or  his  associates.  He  was  known  as  'Bill/ 
®r  'Dave/  or  'Bobo/  or  'Buckskin/  or  some  like  sobriquet. 
When,  however,  he  could  be  induced  to  talk  about  himself  as 
a  stage  driver,  his  stories, were  interesting  and  sometimes  thrill- 
ing. There  was,  occasionally,  a  liar  among  them,  but  most 
of  them  had  really  experienced  such  serious  adventures  and 
hair-breadth  escapes,  that  it  was  not  necessary  for  them  to  draw 
upon  their  imaginations. 


192  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

"R!ough,  profane,  and  unclean  of  speech  among  their  asso- 
ciates, they  were  remarkably  courteous  to  lady  passengers, 
and  ever  thoughtful  of  their  comforts  and  feelings.  More  than 
once,  upon  arriving  at  a  station  where  the  drivers  were  to 
be  changed,  I  have  heard  one  whisper  to  another,  'Remem- 
ber, Sandy,  there  is  a  little  lady  in  the  coach/  That  was 
sufficient. 

"During  the  most  interesting  portion  of  the  trip,  we  had 
two  drivers,  'Uncle  Billy,'  who  was  going  to  San  Antonio 
on  leave,  and  'Bobo/  the  regular  driver.  They  vied  with  each 
other  in  trying  to  make  everything  comfortable  and  pleasant  for 
Mrs.  Mills.  They  would  prepare  the  driver's  high  seat  with 
cushions  and  blankets,  and  assist  her  to  mount  to  the  seat. 
Then  for  hours,  they  would  call  her  attention  to  points  of  in- 
terest or  entertain  her  with  stories  of  their  experiences,  both 
humorous  and  tragic. 

"One  morning,  just  after  daybreak,  Bobo  halted  the  coach 
and  said,  'Gentlemen,  get  your  guns  ready.  The  print  of 
moccasins  are  as  thick  as  turkey-tracks/  And  so  they  were; 
and  fresh,  at  that.  A  large  party  of  Indians  had  recently 
crossed  the  road;  but  we  neither  saw  nor  heard  more  about 
them." 

After  crossing  the  Pecos  River  and  reaching  the  Concho 
River,  the  mail  coach  party  ran  into  a  herd  of  buffalo.  "Of 
course,  we  dismounted  and  wantonly  fired  into  them,"  con- 
tinued Colonel  Mills.  "With  what  effect  I  do  not  know,  ex- 
cept that  some  one  wounded  an  immense  bull  so  seriously  that 
he  became  angry,  and  sullenly  refused  to  run  away,  as  the 
others  did. 

"We,  with  our  deadly  Winchesters,  ceased  firing  at  him,  as 
he  was  of  no  use  to  us ;  but  not  so  the  young  St.  Louis  lawyer. 
He  wanted  to  do  something  he  could  tell  about  at  home,  and 
he  advanced  upon  the  irate  animal  with  his  little  thirty-two 
calibre  pistol,  firing  as  he  went.  He  was  encouraged  and  ani- 
mated by  the  shouts  of  Bobo  and  Uncle  Billy. 

"'Charge  him,  mister!'  they  shouted.  'You've  got  him! 
The  next  shot  will  fetch  him !' " 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  193 

"Why,  Unele  Billy  I*  exclaimed  Mrs.  Mills,  'that  animal 
will  kill  the  man !  Call  him  back/ 

"  'Of  course,  he'll  kill  him,'  agreed  Uncle  Billy.  'Now,  you 
just  watch  and  you'll  see  the  fun.  He'll  toss  that  little  lawyer 
higher'n  the  top  of  this  coach!' 

"Still,"  says  Colonel  Mills,  "neither  Uncle  Billy  nor  Bobo 
were  bloodthirsty  men.  So,  to  satisfy  Mrs.  Mills,  the  tender- 
foot was  called  back." 

The  Mescalero  and  Lipan  Apaches — principally  the  former 
— were  the  only  Indians  giving  trouble  in  the  country  west  of 
the  Pecos  River — the  Big  Bend.  On  account  of  the  friendly 
relations  which  had  sprung  up  between  these  Indians  and  the 
Mexican  inhabitants  of  San  Carlos,  San  Vicente,  and  Presidio 
del  Norte  (Ojinaga,  Mexico),  populous  Indian  rancher ias  were 
built  along  the  Tres  Linguas  Creek  and  in  the  Chisos,  or  Ghost 
Mountains.  These  mountains,  of  which  Mount  Emory  is  the 
apex,  were  the  most  rugged  and  precipitous  mountains  in  the 
Big  Bend.  Even  to-day  they  furnish  a  safe  refuge  for  in- 
dividuals who  desire  to  remain  without  the  pale  of  the  law. 

The  name,  Tres  Linguas,  is  derived  from  the  fact  that  three 
different  races  of  Indians — the  Comanche,  the  Apache,  and  the 
Shawnee — lived  on  the  three  branches  of  this  creek.  There  is 
no  record  available  which  explains  the  presence  of  the  Shaw- 
nees  in  this,  far-off  country.  Therefore,  the  creek  was  called 
the  Creek  of  the  Three  Languages ;  and  this  name,  by  usage, 
has  been  gradually  slurred  into  Terlingua  Creek.  ^ 

Soon  the  bands  of  Apaches  who  settled  in  this  country 
became  known  as  Chisos  Apaches,  and,  while  Fort  Davis  and 
Fort  Stockton  had  formerly  been  considered  the  strategical 
bases  from  which  to  operate  against  and  control  these  maraud- 
ers, it  was  found  necessary  to  establish  another  post,  Pifia 
Colorada  (red  rock),  six  miles  below  the  present  town  of 
Marathon.  At  the  time  of  establishment,  Pifia  Colorada  was 
isolated  from  all  settlements,  the  nearest  being  Fort  Davis, 
sixty-five  miles  to  the  northwest. 

From  their  retreats  in  the  Chisos  Mountains,  the  Apaches 
harassed  the  Chihuahua  Trail;  and,  if  pursued,  they  crossed 


194  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

into  Mexico,  where  they  found  protection  among  their  friends 
and  kinspeople  in  the  Mexican  settlements  along  the  Rio 
Grande.  From  the  south  banks  of  this  river,  they  could  defy 
their  pursuers  on  the  north  bank  without  fear  of  punishment. 

In  1870,  William  Russell,  with  Dario  Rodriguez,  his  father- 
in-law,  established  a  sheep  ranch  at  the  foot  of  Capote  Moun- 
tain, fourteen  miles  north  of  Candelaria,  a  settlement  on  the 
American  side  of  the  Rio  Grande.  The  Indians  had  never 
before  molested  the  settlements  along  this  portion  of  the  Rio 
Grande,  as  it  lay  too  far  away  from  the  Indian  trails. 

Two  years  prior  to  establishing  his  sheep  ranch,  Russell 
had  established  an  extensive  irrigated  farm  on  the  Rio  Grande, 
near  Candelaria,  on  which  he  raised  grain  for  the  troops  at 
Fort  Davis  and  Fort  Stockton.  The  river,  in  a  freakish  mood, 
changed  its  channel  in  flood  time,  and  swept  away  the  Russell 
farm. 

As  if  to  aid  and  abet  the  forces  of  Nature  in  bringing  ruin 
upon  the  hardy  old  pioneers,  the  Apaches  attacked  the  sheep 
ranch  and  killed  four  of  his  herders,  while  Matildo  Rodriguez 
alone  escaped  by  hiding  behind  a  large  boulder.  The  Indians 
lost  three  of  their  number  in  the  fight,  however,  before  they 
killed  the  herders. 

No  troops  had  ever  been  stationed  regularly  at  Presidio 
del  Norte  since  the  abandonment  of  that  post  by  the  Spaniards, 
and  up  to  the  beginning  of  the  Madero  Revolution,  in  1911. 
Every  year  or  so,  however,  two  or  three  hundred  troops  would 
appear  suddenly  at  the  old  presidio  and  camp  for  a  few 
months.  Ostensibly,  they  came  to  fight  Indians,  but,  in  reality, 
they  came  to  take  care  of  some  captain's  smuggling  interests, 
or  to  collect  port  receipts.  Upon  news  of  the  Capote  Moun- 
tain massacre  reaching  the  authorities,  a  company  of  Mexican 
regulars  was  sent  to  chastise  the  Apaches.  In  a  sense,  the 
Nortafios  felt  that  the  Indians  had  violated  their  friend- 
ship. 

Much  has  been  said  in  regard  to  the  alien  votes  which  are 
yearly  cast  along  the  border.  On  account  of  the  overwhelming 
majority  of  Mexicans  in  the  country,  this  question  has  long 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  195 

been  a  cause  for  the  serious  consideration  of  every  American 
citizen. 

In  the  early  days,  however,  nothing  was  thought  of  import- 
ing Mexicans  from  across  the  Rio  Grande  and  voting  them  in 
droves.  This  was  considered  a  privilege  shared  equally  by  all 
candidates  for  office.  If  the  candidate  failed  to  take  advantage 
of  his  opportunity,  and  his  opponent  did,  no  one  was  to  blame 
but  the  negligent  candidate. 

The  story  is  told  about  the  Democratic  candidate  for  Con- 
gress, who  made  the  long  journey  by  mail  coach  from  Ysleta 
to  Fort  Davis,  to  garner  in  the  votes  in  that  thinly  settled 
portion  of  his  district. 

At  Fort  Davis,  the  first  man  the  candidate  saw  was  Cap- 
tain Mose  Kelly.  Captain  Kelly  had  come  up  from  Presidio 
on  some  business.  The  two  men  shook  hands  warmly;  they 
were  old  friends. 

"Help  me  get  elected,  Kelly/'  said  the  candidate,  after  the 
preliminary  greetings  had  been  gone  through  with. 

"I'd  like  to,"  replied  Kelly,  "but  I  am  a  Republican." 

"Politics  don't  matter,"  explained  the  office-seeker.  "This 
is  a  Democratic  state,  and  a  Republican  can't  be  elected.  So 
why  waste  your  energies  trying  to  elect  one?" 

"All  right,"  said  Kelly,  after  a  moment's  consideration. 
"I'll  do  it.  How  many  votes  do  you  need  to  be  elected  ?" 

"One  hundred  arid  fifty,"  said  the  candidate. 

"Can  you  buy  two  barrels  of  whiskey?"  asked  Kelly. 

The  candidate  could,  and  he  gave  the  money  to  Kelly  with 
the  admonition  to  "make  it  count." 

The  day  before  election,  Kelly  was  in  Presidio.  That 
night,  he  gave  a  big  celebration  and  invited  the  Mexicans  from 
the  south  side  of  the  Rio  Grande.  Fully  one  hundred  and  fifty 
attended.  One  of  the  barrels  of  whiskey  was  opened,  and  soon 
the  fiery  liquor  was  flowing  down  the  throats  of  the  thirsty 
Mexicans. 

"To-morrow  is  election  day,"  shouted  Kelly,  above  the  up- 
roar. "Will  you  all  vote  for  me?" 

"Segurro!     Sure!"  cried  the  hombres.    "Viva  la  Kelly!" 


196  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

So  Kelly  began  to  poll  their  votes. 

"Will  you  cast  your  vote  for  me,  Juan?"  he  would  ask; 
and  when  Juan  would  cry,  "Yes!"  very  gaily  and  enthusias- 
tically, Kelly  would  write  down  the  ballot  for  his  friend,  the 
Democratic  candidate. 

Then  he  would  say  to  Juan :  "Have  you  a  father,  a  brother, 
or  a  good  friend,  you  can  vouch  to  vote  for  me  ?" 

"Oh,  si,  si,  Senor!" 

"What  is  his  name?" 

"Pedro  Sanchez,  my  cousin,  Senor."  Whereupon,  Kelly 
would  write  down  Pedro  Sanchez*  vote  for  the  candidate. 

The  election  went  merrily  on.  By  the  time  each  man  had 
cast  his  vote,  and  the  vote  of  a  friend  or  relative,  the  first  bar- 
rel of  whiskey  was  emptied ;  and  still  it  was  only  around  mid- 
night. But  who  was  there  to  question  such  a  small  detail  as 
casting  votes  before  election  day! 

By  the  time  the  first  barrel  of  "voting  juice"  was  empty, 
all  had  voted ;  so,  as  Kelly  pulled  the  bung  stopper  of  the  sec- 
ond barrel,  he  remarked,  "Just  to  make  certain,  it  will  be  a 
good  idea  for  everybody  to  vote  over  again,  and  have  four  or 
five  hundred  votes." 

"Sure!  Segurro!"  shouted  the  happy  Mexicans.  "Viva 
la  Kelly!" 

All  of  which  transpired  in  the  year,  A.  D.  1872. 

The  year,  1873,  was  of  considerable  moment  in  the  history 
of  the  Big  Bend,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  Government  de- 
cided to  place  all  of  our  Indian  wards  upon  reservations.  It 
will  be  recalled  that  the  experiment  had  already  been  tried  out 
at  Fort  Stanton,  New  Mexico. 

To  the  Indian,  this  was  the  land  of  his  forefathers,  and 
had  been  for  unknown  ages.  Better  to  understand  the  Indian 
situation,  some  idea  of  the  Indians'  viewpoint  must  be  dealt 
with.  His  claim  was  that  of  prior  possession.  To  him,  the 
Rio  Grande  had  no  particular  significance,  and  the  fact  of 
its  being  the  initial  boundary  between  two  powerful  republics 
was  never  recognized.  He  had  learned  by  experience  that  the 
troops  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  were  more  to  be  feared 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  197 

than  those  on  the  south  side.  Therefore,  the  Rio  Grande  was 
the  limit  of  his  activity  only  in  a  physical  sense.  Wherever 
the  trails  crossed  the  Rio  Grande,  thus  overcoming  the  phys- 
ical obstruction  of  that  stream,  it  meant  no  more  to  him  than 
the  Pecos  River  or  other  streams  crossed  by  the  trails. 

In  fact,  the  country  claimed  by  the  Apaches  lay  on  both 
sides  of  the  Rio  Grande.  Therefore,  it  was  difficult  to  de- 
termine whether  the  Indians  depredating  in  the  Big  Bend  were 
the  wards  of  the  United  States  or  of  Mexico.  Hence,  the 
necessity  of  co-operation  between  the  two  governments  in 
rounding  up  these  Indians.  This  co-operation  was  extended, 
in  so  far  as  the  Mexican  Government  could  give  it. 

For  some  years  the  Apaches  had  been  led  by  Chief  Alsate, 
who  stands  a  spectacular  figure  in  the  annals  of  the  Apaches. 
In  the  roundup  of  these  Indians,  which  followed  the  arrival 
of  Colonel  Williams  at  Presidio,  almost  all  of  the  Chisos 
Apaches,  including  their  chief,  Alsate,  were  taken  to  the  City 
of  Mexico.  His  subsequent  return  to  his  old  haunts  in  the 
Big  Bend  furnishes  a  chapter  in  itself,  and  will  be  dealt  with 
later.  One  of  the  last  hostile  acts  accredited  to  Alsate,  before 
his  capture,  was  his  attack  on  the  freight  outfits  of  Wolff  and 
Hagelstein,  at  Charco  de  Alsate,  east  of  Alpine.  The  freighters 
were  returning  from  the  salt  lakes,  in  what  is  now  Crane 
County,  loaded  with  salt  for  Presidio.  Alsate  had  a  hundred 
warriors,  but  the  freighters  fought  them  off  without  loss  on 
either  side. 

The  Comanche  and  Kioway  Indians  had  been  eliminated  as 
factors  in  the  disturbed  conditions  in  the  Big  Bend.  In  1872-3, 
a  campaign  was  inaugurated  by  the  civilian  organization  which 
later  became  known  as  the  Texas  Rangers.  This  campaign 
culminated  in  the  Deer  Creek  fight  and  the  Pack-saddle  Moun- 
tain fight,  two  of  the  last  engagements  with  the  Comanche  and 
Kioway  Indians  on  Texas  soil. 

But  different  from  either  of  these  Indians,  were  the  Lipans 
and  Mescaleros,  who  belonged  to  the  Apache  family  and  in- 
habited the  rugged  mountain  country  adjacent  to  the  Rio 
Grande,  in  the  Big  Bend.  After  Colonel  Williams  had  gathered 


198  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

all  the  Indians  whom  he  could  find  and  had  placed  them  on  res- 
ervations in  the  Indian  Territory  and  New  Mexico,  there  still 
remained  scattered  bands,  numbering  from  a  dozen  to  fifty 
men,  women,  and  children. 

Against  these,  the  Government  instituted  a  vigorous  cam- 
paign, either  to  capture  or  to  exterminate  them.  In  May,  1873, 
Lieutenant  John  L.  Bullis,  of  the  Twenty-fifth  Infantry,  took 
charge  of  the  Seminole  Negro-Indian  scouts ;  and  in  the  follow- 
ing eight  years  of  active  campaigning  against  these  Indians,  his 
record  was  such  that  Brigadier-General  D.  S.  Stanley,  in  rec- 
ommending Bullis  for  promotion,  declared  that  his  career  in 
Southwest  Texas  was  the  most  successful  of  any  Indian  fighter 
in  the  history  of  the  United  States  Army. 

In  1875,  Charles  Mulhern,  who  for  fifty  years  has  been 
closely  identified  with  the  upbuilding  of  the  Big  Bend,  was  ordi- 
nance sergeant,  C  troop,  Fourth  Cavalry,  under  Captain  John 
A.  Wilcox.  While  stationed  at  Fort  Clark,  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Pecos  River,  a  citizen  came  into  the  post  one  day  with 
the  information  that  he  knew  the  location  of  a  band  of  Apaches 
who  had  in  their  possession  a  bunch  of  stolen  horses,  and  that 
these  horses  could  easily  be  retaken  by  the  soldiers. 

At  that  time,  Captain  Wilcox  and  most  of  the  troop  were 
out  on  an  Indian  scout,  so  Lieutenant  Irwin,  the  next  in  com- 
mand, with  five  soldiers  and  five  citizens  immediately  went  in 
pursuit.  In  the  meantime,  another  citizen  had  trailed  the  horses, 
until  he  found  them  herded  by  two  Indians.  Considering  him- 
self the  equal  of  two  Indians,  he  fired  upon  them,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  running  them  off  and  retaking  the  horses.  Later, 
Lieutenant  Irwin  and  his  party  had  met  the  valorous  citizen 
and  were  helping  him  drive  the  horses  back  to  Fort  Clark, 
when,  by  accident,  they  struck  a  fresh  Indian  trail,  which 
showed  signs  of  having  been  made  by  a  large  band. 

Leaving  the  citizen  alone  to  drive  the  horses  into  the  post, 
the  Lieutenant's  party  struck  out  on  the  newly  discovered  trail. 
They  rode  rapidly ;  but  the  Indians  evidently  expecting  pursuit 
did  likewise ;  and  it  was  the  second  day  before  the  pursuers  saw 
their  first  encouraging  signs.  This  was  a  camp,  where  the  In- 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  199 

dians  had  killed  and  eaten  a  young  colt.  This  sign  spurred 
the  party's  flagging  hopes,  and,  despite  hunger,  they  pressed 
on  rapidly.  They  had  ridden  only  a  few  miles,  when  they  came 
upon  the  Indians,  camped  on  Devil's  River,  in  a  canyon  shaped 
like  a  washbasin,  where  they  were  preparing  a  meal. 

All  fear  of  pursuit  had  left  them  by  this  time,  and  they  were 
cooking  a  meal  of  colt's  meat.  One  lone  Indian  was  driving 
their  tired  saddle-horses  to  water,  and  so  secure  did  they  feel 
that  the  usual  custom  of  posting  a  sentinel  was  not  observed. 

Unfortunately,  in  maneuvering  for  a  better  position  for  their 
attack,  one  of  the  Americans  became  over-eager  and  fired  his 
gun.  The  shot  alarmed  the  Indians  about  the  camp,  and  they 
fled  precipitously  to  the  hills. 

The  horses  of  the  party  were  almost  exhausted,  and,  at  the 
command  of  Lieutenant  Irwin,  they  were  abandoned,  and  the 
whites  took  up  the  pursuit  on  foot.  But  this  did  not  last  long, 
as  the  Indians  easily  outdistanced  them. 

Giving  up  the  chase,  the  party  returned  to  the  Indians'  camp, 
and  after  rounding  up  the  scattered  horses,  sat  down  to  a  hearty 
meal,  consisting  of  barbecued  colt's  meat. 

While  the  hungry  whites  feasted,  the  Indians  sat  up  in  the 
rocks,  out  of  rifle  shot,  and  watched  them,  no  doubt  envying 
them  the  feast. 

It  was  customary  for  the  army  quartermaster  to  sell  all  cap- 
tured horses  when  the  owner  did  not  claim  them.  This  was 
done  with  the  horses  captured  on  this  trip.  The  animals  were 
sold  to  the  highest  bidders,  for  seventy-five  cents  to  one  dollar 
each.  Mr.  Mulhern  bought  two  fine  animals  for  the  total  sum 
of  $1.50! 

An  hour  or  so  after  the  sale  was  over,  the  owner  reached 
the  post,  anxious  to  recover  his  horses.  But  the  buyers  had 
either  departed  or  could  not  be  found.  The  owner  was  not 
reimbursed,  for  by  the  rough  and  ready  military  laws  of  the 
rough  and  ready  West,  he  was  loser  for  "keeps." 

It  was  probably  due  to  this  incident,  a  short  time  after,  that 
a  general  order  was  issued  from  the  department  headquarters 
at  San  Antonio  for  all  captured  horses  to  be  sent  to  the  depot 


200  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

there  and  disposed  of  after  a  sufficiently  long  period  had 
elapsed  for  the  owner  to  make  claim  for  his  stock. 

In  1875,  the  Indians  were  very  active,  especially  along  the 
northern  slope  of  the  Davis  Mountains.  At  that  time,  Sam 
Miller  ran  a  mail  stage  from  Fort  Davis,  north,  through  Toyah 
Valley,  into  the  Seven  Rivers  country  of  New  Mexico.  Miller 
kept  his  work  stock  on  his  farm  at  San  Solomon  Springs,  and 
found  it  difficult  to  provide  a  sufficient  number  of  mules  for  the 
stage  journeys,  because  of  repeated  thefts  by  Indians. 

Fires  to  the  number  of  seventy  or  seventy-five  were  fre- 
quently observed  on  the  cliffs  of  the  Davis  Mountains.  These 
signals  proved  to  be  the  Indians  calling  together  their  families 
before  a  general  attack  on  the  settlers  in  the  valleys  below. 
After  they  had  gotten  their  women  and  children  out  of  the  way, 
they  struck  daily  at  some  settlement  or  lone  settler. 

While  Robert  Lyle  was  cattle  hunting  near  the  present 
Seven  Springs  Ranch,  five  Mescaleros  attacked  him.  For  two 
hours,  he  stood  them  off,  although  he  was  shot  in  a  leg,  an  arm, 
and  had  a  bad  bullet  wound  in  the  forehead.  It  would  have  been 
his  last  fight,  had  not  Daniel  Murphy  happened  along,  on  his 
way  from  Fort  Davis  to  his  Toyah  Valley  farm.  The  two  men 
succeeded  in  driving  off  the  Indians,  and  Murphy  took  Lyle  to 
his  Toyah  Valley  farm. 

Another  fight  occurred  a  short  time  afterward  with  the  same 
band  of  Indians.  Four  white  men  were  hauling  corn  to  Fort 
Davis  for  Whitaker  Keesey,  from  his  Phantom  Lake  farm. 
One  of  their  wagons  had  broken  down  and  half  a  load  of  corn 
had  been  left  on  the  ground,  while  they  continued  to  Fort 
Davis  with  the  remainder.  On  a  return  trip  to  mend  the  wagon 
and  pick  up  the  corn,  they  walked  into  an  Indian  ambuscade, 
which  had  been  formed  about  the  scene  of  their  late  break- 
down. The  men  ran  for  a  small  hill  nearby,  and  succeeded  in 
gaining  its  summit,  where  they  quickly  built  up  a  barricade  of 
loose  boulders.  All  day,  the  besieged  held  the  Indians  at  bay, 
but  finally  three  of  the  whites  were  killed.  As  evening  ap- 
proached, worn  out  by  the  strain,  his  companions  dead,  seeing 
the  Indians  were  ready  to  close  in  upon  him,  the  fourth  man 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  201 

was  about  to  turn  his  gun  upon  himself,  when  a  shout  from 
down  the  canyon,  told  him  that  aid  was  at  hand. 

Robert  Lyle,  with  ten  Mexicans,  who  had  been  working 
cattle  further  down  Limpia  Canyon,  hearing  the  shots,  had 
ridden  up  the  canyon  to  investigate.  At  sight  of  these  rein- 
forcements, the  Indians  fled. 

This  fight  took  place  at  a  little  knoll,  along  the  present  road 
leading  down  Limpia  Canyon,  between  the  ranch  homes  of  Ben- 
nett B.  and  Willis  W.  McCutcheon ;  and  the  barricade  of  rock 
still  stands,  mute  evidence  of  the  tragedy. 


202  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 


CHAPTER  XV 

On  July  24,  1875,  by  an  act  of  the  state  legislature,  Presidio, 
which  hitherto  had  been  attached  to  El  Paso  County,  was  made 
a  county,  with  Fort  Davis  as  county-seat.  This  act  made  Pre- 
sidio the  largest  organized  county  in  the  United  States,  embrac- 
ing approximately  twelve  thousand  square  miles. 

The  unsettled  condition  of  the  country  is  illustrated  by  the 
fact  that  when  the  new  county  was  divided  into  five  districts, 
or  precincts,  the  fourth  district  had  no  justice  of  the  peace  nor 
tax  collector,  the  reason  being  that  no  one  lived  in  that  district. 

The  roll  of  new  county  officers  contained  the  names  of  men 
who  played  important  parts  in  the  upbuilding  of  the  South- 
west. John  R.  Davis,  justice  of  peace  and  tax  collector  for  the 
third  district,  had  come  to  Presidio  del  Norte  with  John  W. 
Spencer,  in  the  late  forties.  In  time,  he  had  established  a  ranch 
headquarters  above  Presidio,  on  Alamito  Creek,  and  his  ranch 
became  one  of  the  stopping  places  on  the  great  Chihuahua  Trail. 

Captain  Theodore  A.  Wilson,  sheriff,  and  Sam  R.  Miller, 
justice  of  the  peace  and  tax  collector  for  the  second  district,  are 
already  well  known  to  us  from  their  activities  in  fighting  In- 
dians and  outlaws ;  while  Whitaker  Keesey,  a  grand  old  man, 
who,  perhaps  more  than  any  other  one  man,  helped  build  up 
the  cattle  industry  in  the  Davis  Mountains,  had  come  as  head 
baker  with  Merritt's  troops  in  1867.  From  his  meager  army 
pay,  Mr.  Keesey  saved  enough  money  to  found  a  mercantile 
establishment,  in  1873,  which  has  never  closed  its  doors.  With 
almost  prophetic  vision,  he  saw  the  great  future  of  the  country 
and,  consistent  with  his  views,  in  later  years,  he  risked  his  per- 
sonal fortune,  time  after  time,  in  carrying  cattle  men  through 
disastrous  droughts  and  hard  years. 

Fort  Davis  was  rapidly  settling  with  a  sturdy  class  of 
pioneers  whose  descendants  to-day  are  meritoriously  upholding 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  203 

the  dignity  of  their  names.  George  Crosson,  for  a  number  of 
years  had  been  wagonmaster  on  the  San  Antonio-Santa  Fe 
and  the  Chihuahua  Trails.  After  the  organization  of  Presidio 
County,  he  gave  up  trail-driving  and  brought  sheep  to  Fort 
Davis.  Upon  the  arrival  of  Mrs.  Crosson  and  the  children,  two 
years  later,  Crosson  established  permanent  ranch  headquarters 
several  miles  away  from  the  army  post.  In  those  days,  living 
on  a  ranch  was  very  hazardous,  on  account  of  the  Indians. 
Time  after  time,  the  Crosson  ranch  was  raided.  The  Indians 
seemed  to  prefer  sheep  to  cattle,  as  they  could  be  driven  more 
easily  and  readily  over  mountain  passes;  and,  when  pressed 
closely  by  irate  citizens  or  soldiers,  the  Indian  herders  could 
secrete  the  sheep  in  small  bunches,  where  their  tracks  would 
pass  unnoticed  by  the  trailers. 

In  this  year,  the  Indians  were  unusually  active  around  Fort 
Davis.  The  spreading  out  of  the  settlers,  who  dared  brave 
the  perils  of  raids  in  order  to  have  the  fine  pasturage  for  their 
stock,  had  attracted  the  Indians'  attention.  Graf  ton  T.  Wilcox, 
county  and  district  clerk,  lost  eighteen  head  of  beeves,  forty- 
two  young  cows,  and  several  fine  horses  in  an  Indian  raid  upon 
Captain  Wilson's  ranch,  down  Limpia  Canyon.  None  of  these 
was  recovered.  At  that  time  Wilson  was  a  young  man,  just 
beginning  life  with  this  little  bunch  of  cattle,  which  would  have 
grown  him  a  fortune.  He  lost  all  in  one  raid ! 

Indeed,  the  Indians  became  so  bold  that  they  crept  up  to  the 
adobe  wall  surrounding  the  post  buildings  and  shot  a  soldier 
who  was  working  in  the  post  garden.  Again,  they  stole  the 
sheep  and  goats  from  a  corral  in  the  rear  of  Patrick  Murphy's 
store,  and  succeeded  in  reaching  their  mountain  fastnesses  with 
their  slow-moving  captives. 

Were  the  records  obtainable  concerning  the  thrilling  experi- 
ences of  the  stage-drivers,  they  would  be  replete  with  interest. 
In  1877,  the  Twenty-fifth  Infantry,  a  negro  regiment,  com- 
manded by  white  officers,  was  stationed  at  Fort  Davis.  Their 
duty  was  to  keep  the  Indians  pushed  back  from  the  overland 
ill  route. 

An  amusing  incident  connected  with  this  stage  route,  and 


204  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

an  instance  of  ironical  retribution,  took  place,  which  brings  out 
the  iron-fisted  way  a  proper  regard  for  the  code  of  the  West 
was  taught. 

At  every  stage  stand,  army  pickets  were  posted.  In  addi- 
tion to  this,  soldiers  acted  as  guards  for  United  States  mails. 
The  stages  were  the  Concord  coach  type,  with  a  driver  and  two 
guards  riding  in  the  driver's  seat. 

One  day,  something  had  incapacitated  the  regular  driver, 
and  E.  P.  Webster,  who  had  charge  of  the  stage  stand  at  Fort 
Davis,  mounted  the  driver's  seat  to  take  the  stage  over  the  first 
division  west.  As  usual,  two  negro  soldiers  climbed  up  in  the 
seat  with  him.  All  went  well  until  the  stage  reached  a  thicket 
of  live-oaks  between  El  Muerto  and  Van  Horn  Wells.  At 
this  point,  the  stage  was  ambushed  by  the  Indians,  who  closed 
in  from  both  sides  of  the  road.  Webster  was  driving  a  team 
of  four  wild,  half-broken  mules,  and  successfully  ran  the  gant- 
let of  the  Indians'  cross-fire,  without  man  or  beast  being  dis- 
abled. 

The  Indians  were  poorly  mounted,  but  in  the  first  burst  of 
speed  to  regain  their  lost  advantage,  they  came  up  almost 
abreast  of  the  stage.  Webster  carried  only  a  six-shooter,  and 
was  too  busy  managing  his  thoroughly  frightened  mules  to  be 
able  to  use  it.  But  the  two  soldiers  were  armed  with  the  regu- 
lation army  guns,  and  replied  to  the  fire  of  the  racing  Indians. 

As  the  Indians  momentarily  gained  on  the  stage,  one  of  these 
negroes,  thinking  a  position  inside  the  stage  would  be  less 
perilous,  scrambled  back  over  the  top  to  get  inside.  He  failed 
to  consider  that  the  canvas  side  of  the  stage  afforded  but 
scanty  protection.  In  crawling  down,  he  caught  his  gun  in  the 
rear  wheel  and  it  was  jerked  from  his  hand,  rendering  him  use- 
less in  the  fight.  His  mishap  was  greeted  with  a  yell  of  glee 
from  the  Indians.  Naturally,  he  felt  very  uncomfortable. 

However,  after  the  first  burst  of  speed,  the  Indian  ponies 
were  outdistanced  by  the  wiry  stage  mules,  and  the  mail  raced 
into  Van  Horn  Wells  at  top  speed.  A  report  was  made  of  the 
attack  to  the  officer  in  command,  who  immediately  arrested 
the  unfortunate  soldier. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  205 

Instead  of  dismissing  him  from  the  service,  with  a  dishon- 
orable discharge  as  a  punishment,  the  soldier  was  placed  on 
night  guard  for  one  year,  at  a  lonely  station,  without  either 
rifle  or  side-arms.  With  the  Indians  ever  threatening,  the  ter- 
rorizing noises  of  the  night  and  the  rough  men  of  the  day, 
this  unofficial  punishment  was  meted  out  to  the  careless  sol- 
dier. At  the  end  of  the  year,  he  was  taken  to  Fort  Davis,  and 
dismissed  from  the  service. 

This  same  year,  Lieutenant  Bullis,  with  his  Seminole  scouts, 
made  a  dash  into  Mexico  after  a  band  of  Mescalero  Apaches, 
who  had  been  raiding  and  murdering  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  Pecos  River.  Bullis  had  been  on  a  chase  after  the  Indians 
operating  in  the  Davis  Mountains,  and  was  returning  to  Fort 
Clark,  when  he  picked  up  the  fresh  trail  of  a  large  party.  The 
Indians  were  headed  for  the  old  war  trail,  which  crossed  the 
Rio  Grande  a  hundred  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Pecos 
River.  Across  the  Rio  Grande,  at  the  old  crossing,  into  Mexico, 
followed  Bullis.  This  point  was  afterwards  called  the  Bullis 
Crossing. 

On  the  third  day  of  pursuit,  the  scouts  came  upon  the  In- 
dians as  they  were  resting.  Never  dreaming  that  they  would  be 
followed  into  Mexico,  the  Indians  were  completely  surprised. 
The  advantage  in  position  was  in  their  favor,  however,  and 
after  a  short  stand,  they  fled  up  the  mountain  side,  where  the 
scouts,  smaller  in  number  and  worn  out  from  their  three  days' 
steady  riding,  could  not  follow.  Bullis  rounded  up  twenty- 
three  head  of  stolen  horses  and  returned  to  the  Texas  side. 

When  he  first  discovered  the  Indian  signs,  Bullis  had  dis- 
patched a  courier  to  inform  General  Ord,  commanding  the  De- 
partment of  Texas,  of  his  purpose  to  give  chase ;  and  Ord  had 
ordered  Colonel  Shatter  to  march  to  Bullis'  relief.  Before  the 
Colonel's  forces  had  gotten  under  way,  however,  Bullis,  in  per- 
son, rode  into  Fort  Clark  to  make  his  report.  He  had  left  his 
scouts  in  camp,  and  had  ridden  140  miles  in  thirty-six  hours. 

Lieutenant  Bullis  was  a  remarkable  man.  No  military 
commander,  until  the  coming  of  Gaston  and  Langhorne,  was  so 
well  liked  by  the  frontiersmen.  At  one  time,  a  request  was  sent 


206  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

to  General  Ord,  by  the  citizens  of  a  border  county  which  Bullis 
had  successfully  rid  of  Indians,  to  assign  Lieutenant  Bullis  an 
independent  command  of  seventy-five  men,  to  be  selected  by 
himself.  This  could  not  be  done  on  account  of  army  regula- 
tions. Again,  Frederick  Remington,  who  needs  no  introduction 
to  the  reader,  in  an  article  written  for  the  Century  Magazine, 
pays  a  tribute  to  Bullis  after  Bullis  had  been  assigned  to 
the  charge  of  the  San  Carlos  Indian  Reservation,  in  Arizona. 
The  artist  draws  this  word  picture : 

"The  affairs  of  the  San  Carlos  agency  are  administered  at 
present  by  an  army  officer,  Captain  Bullis,  of  the  Twenty- fourth 
Infantry.  As  I  have  observed  him  in  the  discharge  of  his  du- 
ties, I  have  no  doubt  that  he  pays  high  life  insurance  premiums. 
He  does  not  seem  to  fear  the  beetle-browed  pack  of  murderers 
with  whom  he  has  to  deal,  for  he  has  spent  his  life  in  command 
of  Indian  scouts  and  not  only  understands  their  character,  but 
has  gotten  out  of  the  habit  of  fearing  anything.  If  the  deeds  of 
this  officer  had  been  on  civilized  battle  fields  instead  of  in 
silently  leading  a  pack  of  savages  over  the  desert  wastes  of  the 
Rio  Grande,  they  would  have  gotten  him  his  niche  in  the  Tem- 
ple of  Fame.  But  they  are  locked  up  in  the  gossip  of  the  army 
mess-room,  and  end  in  the  soldiers'  matter-of-fact  joke  about 
how  Bullis  used  to  eat  his  provisions  in  the  field,  by  opening  a 
can  a  day  from  the  pack,  and,  whether  it  was  peaches  or  corned- 
beef,  making  it  suffice.  The  Indians  regard  him  as  almost 
supernatural,  and  speak  of  the  'Whirlwind'  with  many  grunts 
of  admiration,  as  they  narrate  his  wonderful  achievements." 

The  Seminole  scouts  were  the  one-time  slaves  of  the  Kicka- 
poo  Indians.  The  name,  properly  Simanoli,  means  renegade,  or 
runaway,  in  reference  to  their  secession  from  the  Creek  con- 
federacy early  in  the  eighteenth  century.  In  time,  a  branch 
of  Seminoles  crossed  with  the  Southern  negro,  and  became  the 
slaves  of  the  Kickapoos.  Upon  the  outbreak  of  the  Civil  War, 
six  hundred  Kickapoos  left  their  reservation  in  Oklahoma  to 
settle  in  Mexico,  taking  their  half-breed  slaves  with  them. 
After  the  abolition  of  slavery,  they  desired  to  return  to  the 
United  States,  but,  before  they  could  do  so,  they  had  to  free 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  207 

their  Seminole  slaves.  Gradually,  these  slaves  drifted  back 
across  the  border,  and,  on  account  of  their  knowledge  of  Indian 
customs  and  habits,  were  employed  in  the  army  as  scouts. 

One  of  the  men  to  cross  trails  with  Bullis  in  the  early  days, 
was  Judge  Joseph  Jones,  judge  of  the  Sixty-third  District.  At 
that  time,  Judge  Jones  was  a  surveyor,  and  was  running  surveys 
in  the  country  infested  by  both  the  Lipan  and  Mescalero 
Apaches.  Sometimes,  Lieutenant  Bullis  and  his  scouts  were 
detailed  as  escorts  for  the  Jones'  surveying  party,  when  the  In- 
dians were  particularly  bad.  On  one  of  these  occasions,  the 
surveying  party  was  camped  near  a  water  hole,  and,  early  in  the 
morning,  Bullis  saw  a  suspicious  looking  smoke  not  a  great 
distance  from  their  camp.  Although  the  party  had  not  break- 
fasted, Bullis  decided  to  attack  before  the  Indians  should  dis- 
cover them. 

The  surprise  was  complete ;  the  Indians,  five  or  six  in  num- 
ber, fled ;  no  casualties.  But  when  the  whites  rushed  into  their 
camp  they  found  nice,  juicy  horse  meat  broiling  on  the  fire; 
and,  joining  in  with  the  others,  Judge  Jones  ate  a  hearty  break- 
fast of  the  meat. 

Another  peculiar  incident  happened  to  the  Jones'  surveying 
party  while  surveying  across  the  Devil's  River,  above  the  pres- 
ent town  of  Del  Rio.  In  reports  to  the  War  Department,  in 
the  early  fifties,  Colonel  Joseph  E.  Johnston,  in  command  of 
the  topographical  engineers,  mentioned  losing  a  man,  with  a^ 
surveyor's  transit  and  chain,  in  a  quick  rise  of  the  San  Pedro 
River  (Devil's  River). 

Thirty  years  later,  the  Jones'  party  was  surveying  the  same 
stream.  In  crossing  a  shallow  place,  a  Polish  boy,  by  name 
Wyschetzky,  stepped  on  a  sharp-pointed  object,  like  the  fin  of  a 
large  fish.  He  made  for  the  bank,  plunging  and  yelling.  Upon 
investigation,  an  old  surveyor's  transit  was  dug  out  of  the  mud, 
with  the  initials  "J*  E.  J."  stamped  upon  it. 

The  events  which  led  up  to  the  so-called  Salt  Lake  War 
are  difficult  to  relate.  The  personal  prejudices  which  are  bound 
to  crop  out  in  any  bitter  struggle  between  two  factions  are  hard 

eliminate.     Our  oldest  and  best  citizens  alive  to-day  who 


208  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

took  part  or  were  in  any  way  connected  with  or  sympathized 
with  one  faction  or  the  other  see,  from  their  personal  view- 
point, tjie  incidents  and  tragedies  of  that  darkly-clouded  year, 
1877.  In  so  far  as  available,  this  account  is  drawn  from  offi- 
cial sources  and  reports. 

It  is  inevitably  true  that  two  races  so  widely  dissimilar  in 
temperament,  business  and  moral  standards,  historical  prece- 
dents and  traditions,  as  are  the  Anglo-Americans  and  Latin- 
Americans — commonly  called  Mexicans — can  never  come  to 
an  understanding,  unless  the  above  named  differences  are  over- 
come through  education,  and  a  stable  form  of  government  under 
which  the  Mexican  people,  as  a  whole,  are  taught  to  aspire  to 
higher  ideals,  both  in  national  polity  and  in  personal  behavior ; 
and  until  we  Americans  cultivate,  not  forbearance,  but  a  more 
sympathetic  understanding  of  these  people,  which  will  enable 
us  to  render  them  assistance.  We  must  ever  bear  in  mind,  when 
dealing  with  lawlessness  along  the  border  and  in  Mexico,  that 
since  the  coming  of  Hernandez  Cortez  to  the  present  time,  these 
people  have  had  to  live  under  conditions  which  absolutely  pre- 
clude a  possibility  of  their  attaining  higher  standards,  either 
morally  or  spiritually.  Slaves  they  were ;  slaves  they  are  to- 
day ;  slaves  they  will  be  to-morrow,  unless  they  receive  assist- 
ance from  without.  And  it  must  be  remembered  that  when  for 
a  brief  space  they  break  their  bonds  and  run  mad  with  rioting 
and  killing — a  throw-back  to  their  Indian  progenitors — that  it 
is  but  the  resultant  reflex  action  from  the  terribly  miserable  lives 
they  are  wont  to  live. 

Under  the  Spanish  and  Mexican  rules,  the  Mexican  citizens 
of  the  settlements  along  the  Rio  Grande  were  given  the  free 
use  of  the  several  large  salt  deposits,  about  one  hundred  miles 
north  of  the  Rio  Grande.  For  many  years  after  Texas  became  a 
state,  this  custom  was  continued,  as  the  country  was  unsettled 
and  there  was  no  demand  for  either  the  salt  or  the  land. 

As  the  country  became  more  settled,  however,  and  citizens 
began  locating  land  under  the  Texas  settlement  law,  Judge 
Charles  H.  Howard,  of  El  Paso,  and  his  father-in-law,  George 
Zimpleman,  of  Austin,  located  the  largest  of  these  salt  lakes, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  209 

which  lies  northeast  of  San  Elizario,  at  that  time  the  county- 
seat  of  El  Paso  county. 

Immediately,  a  protest  arose  from  the  Mexicans,  who  main- 
tained that  the  treaty  by  which  the  territory  was  ceded  to  the 
United  States  did  not  extinguish  the  rights  of  the  public  to  use 
these  salt  lakes.  To  add  to  their  dissatisfaction,  Judge  Howard 
would  permit  no  one  to  take  salt  from  the  deposits.  He  was 
acting  within  his  rights,  and  had  filled  every  requirement  of 
the  law. 

As  soon  as  Howard  took  possession  of  the  salt  lake,  he  put 
into  execution  plans  to  market  quantities  of  salt  in  Chihuahua 
and  other  points.  This  was  transported  by  wagon,  and,  to 
overcome  the  dearth  of  water  between  San  Elizario  and  the 
salt  lakes,  he  had  water  barrels  placed  at  intervals  along  the 
road. 

The  situation  had  by  this  time  grown  tense.  Heretofore, 
the  Mexican  populace,  on  both  sides  of  the  Rio  Grande,  had 
expressed  their  discontent  in  mutterings  and  veiled  threats. 
Now,  the  situation  took  on  a  political  aspect. 

In  every  county  along  the  border,  not  only  in  Texas,  but 
elsewhere,  the  Mexican  vote  was,  and  is,  controlled  by  certain 
political  bosses  or  factions.  'As  a  rule,  national  political  creeds 
did  not  figure  prominently  in  these  fights ;  but,  when  they  did, 
the  bitter  feelings  engendered  took  on  a  more  personal  aspect. 
This  statement  holds  good  to-day. 

Judge  Howard  had  been  placed  in  office  by  the  white  vote. 
Opposing  him  was  Luis  Cardis,  an  Italian,  who  had  come  to 
the  Southwest  in  the  6o's.  Up  to  five  or  six  years  prior  to  the 
Salt  Lake  trouble,  Cardis  had  been  the  political  lieutenant  of 
W.  W.  Mills.  He  knew  the  Spanish  language  and  understood 
the  Mexican  people  thoroughly.  He  succeeded  Colonel  Mills 
as  leader  of  the  Mexican  people,  and  was  the  acknowledged 
dictator  of  the  Mexican  vote.  Cardis  was  a  Republican ;  How- 
ard was  a  Democrat.  Also,  Cardis  had  the  sub-contract  on  the 
Overland  Mail  between  El  Paso  and  Fort  Davis.  A  statement 
is  on  record  which  claims  that  Cardis  collected  $2.50  revenue 
from  each  cart-load  of  salt  the  Mexicans  hauled  away  from  the 


210  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

salt  lakes.  Yet,  the  Mexican  people  loved  and  obeyed  Cardis ; 
and  therein  lies  the  crux  of  the  trouble. 

Judge  Howard  was  a  man  of  imposing  appearance,  powerful 
physique,  and  wonderful  determination  and  courage,  and  was 
district  judge  of  El  Paso,  Presidio  and  Pecos  counties.  Be- 
fore coming  to  the  Southwest  he  had  served  in  the  Confederate 
army.  Howard's  chief  characteristic  was  force ;  that  of  Cardis, 
persuasion  and  management — a  natural  diplomat. 

On  September  10,  1877,  the  real  trouble  began.  Judge  How- 
ard had  two  prominent  Mexicans  of  San  Elizario  arrested  for 
making  public  threats  against  him.  No  sooner  had  this  been 
done,  than  a  mob  of  forty  or  fifty  Mexicans  broke  into  the  jail 
and  forcibly  released  their  countrymen ;  and,  in  turn,  arrested 
Howard  and  the  county  judge,  held  a  farce  which  they  called 
"court,"  and  possibly  would  have  killed  them  both,  had  not 
Luis  Cardis  and  the  parish  priest  appeared  in  time  to  cool  the 
Mexicans'  thirst  for  blood.  After  a  promise  was  extorted  from 
Howard  to  leave  the  country  and  never  return,  he  and  the 
county  judge  were  released. 

Howard  then  proceeded  to  New  Mexico,  where  he  tele- 
graphed Governor  Hubbard,  of  Texas,  for  protection.  There 
was  great  excitement  in  the  state,  and  the  incident,  much  to  the 
detriment  of  many  good  citizens  of  Mexican  blood,  was  gen- 
erally termed  a  race  war. 

Major  John  B.  Jones,  Adjutant-General  of  Texas,  suddenly 
appeared  in  El  Paso,  organized  a  company  of  rangers,  com- 
missioned John  B.  Tays  as  lieutenant,  and  returned  to  Austin. 

On  October  loth,  Judge  Howard  returned  to  El  Paso.  He 
had  already  accused  Cardis  of  being  the  instigator  of  the  trouble 
by  creating  dissatisfaction  among  the  Mexicans  about  the  salt 
lakes.  Howard  went  out  to  hunt  for  Cardis,  and  found  the 
Italian  in  the  store  of  S.  Schutz  &  Brother,  where  Cardis  had 
gone  to  have  Adolph  Krakauer  write  a  letter  for  him.  Howard 
walked  into  the  store,  and  with  a  double-barreled  shotgun, 
killed  Cardis.  When  the  dead  man's  body  was  removed,  a  six- 
shooter  was  found  in  his  pocket,  in  a  scabbard,  and  cocked. 
The  details  of  this  tragedy  is  a  matter  of  record. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  211 

Again  Howard  fled  to  New  Mexico,  but  he  returned  in  De- 
cember to  hold  court  at  Fort  Davis.  From  El  Paso  to  San 
Elizario,  he  was  escorted  by  the  rangers,  twenty  in  number, 
under  command  of  Lieutenant  Tays.  But  they  never  got  be- 
yond San  Elizario. 

A  detachment  of  regulars,  under  command  of  Captain 
Thomas  Blair,  was  stationed  at  San  Elizario,  and  his  report  on 
the  subsequent  occurrences  was  as  follows : 

"As  soon  as  Howard  arrived  in  San  Elizario,  the  town  was 
surrounded  by  a  cordon  of  armed  men  (Mexicans)  and  pickets 
posted  on  all  roads.  As  soon  as  Tays  saw  the  state  of  affairs 
he  and  his  party  retreated  to  their  quarters  (which  was  a  de- 
tached building  with  corral)  and  barricaded  the  doors  and  win- 
dows and  cut  port-holes  in  the  walls.  On  Thursday  morning 
the  firing  began,  and  continued  with  but  few  intermissions  until 
the  rangers  surrendered  on  Monday  forenoon.  Mr.  Ellis,  a 
merchant,  was  the  first  one  killed ;  that  was  Wednesday  night. 
When  the  tumult  began,  he  went  "out  to  find  out  what  it  was, 
and  not  stopping  when  halted  by  one  of  their  sentinels  (Mexi- 
cans), was  shot.  Afterward  his  throat  was  cut  and  his  body 
thrown  into  an  acequia  (water-ditch). 

"On  Thursday  morning,  Sergeant  Mortimer,  of  the  Rang- 
ers, was  killed  while  making  his  way  to  the  building  where  the 
others  were  posted.  The  Rangers  consisted  of  just  twenty  men, 
I  believe.  With  them  in  the  building  were  Howard  and  his 
colored  servant ;  Mr.  Adkinson,  a  merchant  of  San  Elizario,  a 
Mr.  Loomis,  from  Fort  Stockton,  I  believe,  and  Mrs.  Campbell, 
the  wife  of  one  of  the  rangers,  and  her  three  children. 

"After  hearing  that  I  had  been  inside,  Mrs.  Marsh  and  Mrs. 
Campbell  (senior)  went  down  from  El  Paso  on  Sunday  morn- 
ing. Mrs.  Marsh  got  out  her  son  who  was  with  the  rangers, 
but  the  Mexicans  disarmed  him  and  retained  him  prisoner. 
Mrs.  Campbell  (senior)  got  out  her  daughter-in-law  and  her 
two  children. 

"The  ranger  party  on  Monday  found  that  they  could  not  hold 
out  much  longer,  the  men  were  being  overcome  by  sleep,  and 
under  a  flag  of  truce  went  out  and  had  a  talk  with  the  leaders, 


212  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

who  told  them  if  they  would  give  up  Howard  it  was  all  they 
wanted.  This  they  refused  to  do.  They  then  said  that  if  Howard 
would  come  out  he  could  make  arrangements  by  which  it  would 
be  all  right.  Tays  returned  and  told  him  so,  but  told  him  not  to 
go  unless  he  wanted  to  do  so,  that  he  would  defend  him  to  the 
last  man.  Howard  returned  with  Lieutenant  Tays  to  the  lead- 
ers. However,  after  some  talk  they  asked  Tays  to  leave  How- 
ard to  them  and  go  into  another  room,  which  he  refused  to  do, 
whereupon  he  was  seized  by  about  a  dozen  men  and  carried 
out,  and  then  found  that  all  his  party  had  surrendered  at  the 
instigation  of  Adkinson  (it  is  said). 

"During  the  afternoon,  Howard,  Adkinson,  and  McBride, 
Howard's  agent,  were  taken  out  and  shot.  A  strong  effort  was 
made  by  the  more  violent  of  the  party,  and  by  those  from  the 
other  side,  to  have  all  the  Americans  shot,  but  Chico  Barela 
opposed  this,  said  there  had  been  enough  blood  shed,  and  that 
only  after  they  had  killed  him  could  any  more  Americans  be 
killed. 

"Thursday  forenoon  they  were  all  released,  each  one  having 
his  horse  returned  to  him,  but  their  arms  were  retained.  Some 
of  the  rangers  with  whom  I  have  talked,  informed  me  that  they 
were  all  asked  whether  they  were  employed  by  the  Governor  of 
Texas  or  by  Howard,  and  then  each  one  was  required  to  sign  a 
blank  paper.  They  were  then  escorted  by  guard  as  far  as 
Socorro. 

"The  mob  is  estimated  by  Lieutenant  Tays  at  no  less  than 
five  hundred,  many  of  the  leaders  being  from  the  other  side. 
The  loss  was  five  Americans  killed  and  at  least  one  Mexican, 
belonging  to  a  party  under  Captain  Garcia,  who  tried  to  assist 
the  Americans.  The  losses  on  the  side  of  the  mob  are  un- 
known, but  at  least  five  or  six  are  known  to  have  been  killed  and 
a  large  number,  not  less  than  thirty  or  forty,  wounded." 

During  the  five  days  of  fighting,  Captain  Blair  states  that 
he  held  frequent  communications  with  the  leaders  of  the  Mexi- 
can mob.  He  says : 

"I  found  the  people  excited  over  the  fact  that  Howard,  who 
had  taken  a  life,  was  permitted  to  go  at  large,  while  two  of 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  213 

their  number,  who  had  only  said  they  would  go  for  salt  to  his 
salinas,  had  been  arrested.  They  said  Howard  had  killed  their 
friend,  Cardis,  and  they  would  have  his  life,  cost  what  it  might. 

"I  found  their  force  to  consist  of  about  three  hundred  and 
fifty  sober,  well-organized,  well-armed,  determined  men,  with 
a  definite  purpose.  Howard  they  wanted,  nothing  less,  nothing 
else.  I  told  them  I  thought  they  would  regret  their  course,  that 
for  Howard  personally  I  cared  nothing,  but  I  would  be  sorry  if 
anything  happened  to  Lieutenant  Tays.  Yes,  they  said,  but 
why  was  he  defending  Howard?" 

The  frank  acknowledgment  of  Captain  Blair  that  he  had 
held  communications  several  times  with  the  outlaws,  but  still 
made  no  move  to  prevent  the  killing  of  his  five  countrymen, 
on  United  States  soil,  especially  as  the  most  of  these  outlaws 
were  known  to  have  come  from  Mexico,  makes  quite  clear  the 
principal  reason  the  army  was  respected  neither  by  the  Amer- 
ican settlers  nor  by  the  Mexicans.  It  is  true  that  Governor  Hub- 
bard  called  on  President  Hayes  for  assistance,  but  by  the  time 
the  President's  instructions  had  been  acted  upon  by  the  War 
Department,  the  instructions  passed  to  the  commander  of  the 
Department  of  Texas,  who,  in  turn,  passed  them  on  to  the 
commanding  officer  at  Fort  Bliss,  who  instructed  Captain  Blair 
what  to  do,  the  tragedy  had  occurred,  and  the  outlaws  had 
escaped  to  the  south  side  of  the  Rio  Grande. 

Upon  news  of  the  killing  reaching  the  Governor,  he  ordered 
an  additional  force  of  rangers  recruited  to  assist  the  authorities 
in  restoring  order  and  calm.  In  reviewing  the  testimony,  the 
Judge  Advocate  General  of  the  Army  reports : 

"Many  outrages  were  committed  on  innocent  people  in  the 
neighborhood  during  the  excitement,  but  of  these  not  a  few 
were  perpetrated  by  members  of  the  State  force  raised  in  New 
Mexico  under  authority  of  the  Governor  of  Texas.  These  last 
seem  especially  to  be  responsible  for  the  crimes  of  which  the 
people  justly  complain." 

The  United  States  Commissioners,  Colonels  King  and 
Lewis,  before  whom  all  the  testimony  was  placed,  say : 

"On  December  22d,  another  small  force  of  about  thirty 


214  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

men  (this  was  the  force  already  referred  to)  arrived  from  Sil- 
ver City,  who  had  been  called  into  temporary  service  under 
telegraphic  instructions  from  the  Governor,  but,  unhappily,  as 
was  natural  and  according  to  experience  in  raising  volunteers 
along  the  border  when  the  exigencies  of  the  occasion  do  not 
permit  that  delay  which  a  wise  discrimination  in  the  choice  of 
material  would  cause,  the  force  of  rangers  thus  suddenly  called 
together  contained  within  its  ranks  an  adventurous  and  law- 
less element  which,  though  not  predominant,  was  yet  strong 
enough  to  make  its  evil  influences  felt  in  deeds  of  violence  and 
outrage,  matched  only  by  the  mob  itself.  Notably  among  these 
atrocities,  should  be  classed  the  shooting  of  two  Mexican  pris- 
oners who  were  bound  with  cords  when  turned  over  to  the 
guard  at  Ysleta,  ostensibly  to  bury  the  bodies  of  Howard,  Ad- 
kinson  and  McBride — then  lying  in  the  fields  of  San  Elizario — 
and  when  next  seen,  about  an  hour  after,  were  pierced  with 
bullet  holes,  their  appearance  giving  rise  to  grave  apprehension 
in  unprejudiced  minds  that  their  deaths  were  neither  necessary 
nor  justifiable." 

No  one  was  punished  for  this  last  tragedy.  Lieutenant  Tays 
was  forced  to  resign,  and  the  Adjutant  General  of  Texas  or- 
dered Colonel  George  W.  Baylor,  captain  of  Ranger  Battalion 
Company  D,  to  proceed  to  Ysleta  as  quickly  as  possible,  and 
restore  order. 

Thus  ends  the  story  of  the  Salt  Lake  War.  No  one  was 
punished  for  this  last  tragedy.  In  the  rough  code  of  that  day,  it 
was  "an  eye  for  an  eye."  Just  ever  so  often,  a  similar  occur- 
rence takes  place,  for  instance,  the  Glenn  Springs  raid;  the 
Columbus  raid;  the  Brite's  ranch  raid — end  upon  end,  they 
could  be  enumerated.  Can  Mexico  cite  us  to  similar  deeds  com- 
mitted by  Americans  upon  Mexican  soil? 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  215 


CHAPTER  XVI 

Pecos  and  Presidio  counties  had  been  created  in  1870.  It  is 
not  convincingly  clear  regarding  the  formation  of  these  coun- 
ties, but  a  search  through  the  records  revealed  that  the  first 
legislative  act  to  form  them  went  by  default,  and  that  the  elec- 
tion in  1872  was  held  on  the  authority  of  a  proclamation  of  a 
"township" 'or  "precinct"  in  Presidio  County.  It  is  possible 
that  this  precinct  was  called  Pecos.  The  records  say  that,  in 

1870,  Pecos  and  Presidio  Counties  were  created  by  the  legisla- 
ture, by  boundaries  which  were  found  to  be  incorrect.     In 

1871,  Pecos  County  was  again  created  by  boundaries,  and  a 
board  appointed  to  organize  on  the  first  Monday  in  May,  but 
the  board  members  were  not  appointed  until  May  12.    This  is 
why  the  organization  seemed  to  go  by  default.    The  board  con- 
sisted of  Peter  Gallagher,  George  Frazier,  and  Caesario  Torres. 

In  1874,  Pecos  and  Presidio  Counties  were  attached  to  El 
Paso  County  for  judicial  purposes.  On  March  13,  1875,  a  board 
of  commissioners  was  appointed  to  organize  Presidio  County, 
under  act  of  1871,  with  power  to  organize  that  which  was  en- 
acted under  the  provisions  of  1871.  Pecos  County,  being  also 
approved  under  act  of  1871,  is  presumed  to  have  been  organ- 
ized in  this  same  manner,  for  it  is  a  fact  by  all  records  that 
Pecos  County  was  organized  in  1875,  wi^1  Saint  Gall  as  the 
county  seat. 

Following  is  a  report  of  the  first  grand  jury  in  Pecos  County, 
in  June,  1875 :  "We  have  thoroughly  investigated  all  matters 
of  a  criminal  nature  which  have  been  brought  before  us,  which 
have  occurred  since  the  organization  of  the  county.  We  have 
found  the  county  generally  in  a  quiet  and  peaceable  condition." 
The  document  is  signed  by  Bernardo  Torres,  foreman. 

Despite  this  statement  from  the  jury,  it  appears  that  there 
were  many  cases  of  murder,  attempted  murder  and  theft  per- 


216  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

petrated  at  this  time,  as  is  evidenced  by  the  report  of  the  crimi- 
nal docket. 

The  grand  jurors  were,  perhaps,  lolling  in  their  self  com- 
placency, as  the  following  portion  of  their  report  from  Pecos 
County,  October  10,  1875,  will  indicate:  "We,  the  jurors,  rec- 
ommend there  be  some  suitable  place  erected  or  provided  for  the 
safe  keeping  of  prisoners,  as,  at  the  present  time,  we  are  en- 
tirely dependent  upon  the  military  authorities  at  Fort  Stockton 
for  the  safe  keeping  of  prisoners,  and  they,  the  military  authori- 
ties, may  at  any  time  refuse  to  receive  a  prisoner  in  their  guard 
house.  The  grand  jury  has  discovered,  with  regret,  that  in 
this  county  there  is  a  looseness  of  moral  conduct  based  upon 
old  habits,  and  found  in  a  new  and  somewhat  uncivilized 
country. 

"The  grand  jurors  have  a  reason  to  congratulate  themselves 
upon  the  prompt  and  efficient  manner  in  which  they  have  dis- 
charged their  duties.  They  have  found  a  large  number  of  in- 
dictments and  have  thoroughly  investigated  other  matters  that 
are  common  within  their  knowledge." 

The  first  district  judge  was  Charles  H.  Howard,  who  was 
afterward  killed  at  San  Elizario  by  a  Mexican  mob  in  the  Salt 
Lake  War  of  1877.  In  the  year  1871,  on  June  28th,  the  district 
court  was  opened,  under  the  supervision  of  the  district  attor- 
ney, James  A.  Zabriskie. 

In  1875  the  first  commissioners'  court  met.  Officers  present 
were  George  M.  Frazier,  presiding  justice,  as  the  record  says; 
Caesario  Torres,  Francis  Rooney,  Hipolito  Carrasco,  E.  W. 
Bates,  clerk,  and  Andrew  Loomis,  sheriff. 

Then  followed  the  passing  of  laws  which  dealt  first  with  the 
primary  necessity  of  life — the  preservation  of  food.  After  this 
most  important  act,  laws  were  drawn  up  against  murderers  and 
thieves.  Then  came  readjustment  of  titles,  and,  ultimately, 
laws  against  such  minor  offenses  as  gambling  and  "boot-leg- 
ging." 

The  fourth  law  passed  by  the  commissioners,  at  the  first 
meeting,  held  forth  that  if  any  description  of  livestock  be 
found  tresspassing  between  March  18  and  December  I,  the  ani- 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  217 

mals  would  be  impounded  and  the  owners  held  liable  for  dam- 
ages and  fine. 

It  was  not,  however,  until  1881  that  Fort  Stockton  was 
named  the  county-seat.  The  commissioners  called  a  meeting 
for  August  1 3th,  of  this  year,  to  choose  a  permanent  seat,  and 
the  choice  lay  between  Fort  Stockton  and  Saint  Gall,  lying  side 
by  side.  Ninety-four  votes  were  cast  in  the  election;  Fort 
Stockton  received  sixty-four  of  this  number ;  Fort  Davis,  sit- 
uated in  Presidio  County,  receiving  one,  and  Saint  Gall  the 
remainder. 

The  courthouse  at  that  time  was  an  adobe  building  which, 
at  the  present  time,  is  still  standing,  and  is  being  used  for  a 
Mexican  school.  The  present  courthouse  is  standing  just  across 
in  the  southwest  corner  from  the  old  one.  A  point  of  interest, 
which  elicited  little  or  no  attention  at  the  time  of  the  old  court- 
house, was  the  fact  that  it  was  situated  within  the  precincts 
of  Saint  Gall,  and  was  continued  to  be  used  in  this  capacity  for 
many  years,  although  Fort  Stockton  was  the  county-seat. 

About  this  time  the  shortness  of  water  in  Limpia  Canyon 
necessitated  the  mail  route  being  changed  temporarily  to  Mus- 
quiz  Canyon.  Judge  Joseph  Jones  made  a  trip  over  this  route 
when  he  was  sent  out  to  Fort  Davis  and  Fort  Stockton  to  meas- 
ure wood  contracts  for  the  quartermaster  department.  Colonel 
Lawton,  afterwards  of  Spanish-American  war  fame,  was  head 
of  the  department,  and  had  his  command  divided  between  the 
two  posts.  At  this  time,  however,  he  was  away  on  leave  of 
absence,  and  Lieutenant  Kendall  was  acting  quartermaster. 
Lieutenant  Kendall  refused  to  receive  the  wood,  which  was 
mesquite,  because  it  was  all  roots.  After  an  investigation,  how- 
ever, on  the  part  of  the  War  Department,  following  a  recom- 
mendation by  Judge  Jones,  the  lieutenant  was  ordered  to  receive 
the  wood. 

The  contractors  for  the  wood  were  Francis  Rooney  and 
Caesario  Torres,  who  had  been  clearing  some  farm  lands  of 
mesquite  grubs,  and  had  used  the  mesquite  trunks  for  fence 
posts.  Their  contract  with  the  Government  had  been  filled  with 
the  roots. 


218  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

In  1878,  Captain  Shavley  built  a  road  through  Wild  Rose 
Pass,  and  during  the  same  year,  Lieutenant  Kendall  worked  a 
road  in  Musquiz  Canyon,  which  later  Colonel  Grierson  com- 
pleted. 

Mrs.  Kendall,  wife  of  Lieutenant  Kendall,  while  her  hus- 
band was  absent  on  one  of  his  trips  of  inspection,  during  the 
time  he  was  acting  as  quartermaster,  had  an  experience  with  a 
negro  trooper.  With  her  and  her  little  children  was  Lizette 
Stivers,  the  daughter  of  a  neighboring  officer.  In  the  night, 
after  they  had  retired,  they  heard  a  noise,  and  plainly  saw  a 
negro  man  picking  the  glass  from  the  window  to  gain  an  en- 
trance. Although  frightened,  Mrs.  Kendall  did  not  lose  her 
nerve,  and  immediately  got  her  revolver,  which  she  kept  under 
her  pillow.  With  this,  she  crept  quietly  to  the  foot  of  the  bed, 
and,  within  a  few  feet  of  the  negro,  fired  at  him  point  blank 
range.  The  negro  was  not  given  a  military  funeral.  Mrs. 
Kendall  deeply  regretted  the  occurrence,  but  was  highly  praised 
for  her  bravery  and  presence  of  mind.  After  this  happening, 
she  would  no  longer  go  about  alone,  but  was  always  attended 
by  an  escort. 

In  1879,  a  flood  completely  washed  away  the  old  telegraph 
office,  which  was  located  near  Limpia  Creek,  below  Fort  Davis. 
The  telegraph  line  was  from  Fort  Concho  to  El  Paso,  and  con- 
nected at  Fort  Davis  with  the  telegraph  line  to  Presidio  and 
Pina  Colorada.  After  the  flood  the  telegraph  office  was  moved 
to  the  south  side  of  the  present  post. 

During  the  year  1878  the  Indians  were  at  their  worst.  The 
country  for  miles  about  was  continually  infested  with  them, 
and  soldiers  and  rangers  had  to  be  kept  constantly  in  the  field  to 
ward  off  their  attacks.  The  troops  finally  drove  them  eastward 
from  the  field  of  operation  around  Eagle  Springs,  Diablo 
Mountains,  and  other  points  west  of  the  Davis  Mountains. 

As  a  result  of  this,  however,  the  Indians  retaliated  by  raid- 
ing in  and  around  Fort  Davis.  Dutchover's  ranch,  four  miles 
north  of  Fort  Davis,  was  raided,  in  July,  1879;  twenty-one 
head  of  horses  stolen;  one  Mexican  woman  killed,  and  other 
damages  perpetrated  by  the  savages.  Captain  Carpenter,  com- 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  219 

mandant  at  the  post,  hurried  a  detachment  after  the  marauders. 
After  scouring  the  country,  and  failing  to  apprehend  any  of 
the  band,  four  of  the  soldiers  were  left  to  guard  the  ranch  for 
a  month. 

Another  striking  incident  connected  with  the  Indian  activi- 
ties at  this  time  was  the  attack  on  three  stonemasons  who  were 
coming  from  New  Mexico  by  way  of  the  El  Paso  trail.  They 
had  walked  from  Ysleta  to  within  a  half  a  mile  of  Barrel 
Springs,  on  their  way  to  Fort  Davis,  where  they  intended  to 
catch  a  Chihuahua  freight-outfit  and  ride  into  San  Antonio. 
Cautiously  and  successfully  they  passed  through  the  most  dan- 
gerous part  of  their  route,  and  were  in  sight  of  the  stage  sta- 
tion. Fatigued  and  worn  out,  they  were  sighted  by  a  band  of 
Indians,  and  in  plain  sight  of  witnesses  at  the  station  who  were 
powerless  to  interfere,  were  brutally  attacked.  Two  of  the 
masons  were  killed.  One  of  them  swung  a  trowel  across  his 
back,  which  a  bullet  pierced,  penetrating  his  heart.  The  third 
man  escaped  and  reached  the  stage  station. 

Another  incident  occurring  about  the  same  time  was  when 
John  Spencer,  and  his  son,  William,  a  small  lad,  were  riding  across 
the  Fort  Stockton  Trail,  between  Charco  de  Alsate  and  Lioncito. 
The  son  glimpsed  a  group  of  horsemen  at  a  distance,  and  sug- 
gested to  his  father  that  they  were  Indians.  The  elder  man 
was  of  the  opinion  that  they  were  cowboys,  and  paid  no  attention 
to  them.  He  alighted  from  his  horse  to  arrange  something  about 
the  saddle,  when,  suddenly,  he  was  startled  by  the  yells  of 
Indians  sweeping,  in  full  speed,  toward  him  and  his  son. 
Spencer  jumped  quickly  upon  his  horse,  but  the  Indians  were 
so  close  that  they  shot  the  horse  underneath  him.  Immediately 
he  sprang  up  behind  his  son,  whose  horse,  though  heavily  handi- 
capped, outdistanced  the  Indians'  ponies  and  escaped. 

In  1879,  Colonel  W.  R.  Livermore,  retired,  after  whom  the 
highest  peak  in  the  Davis  Mountains  is  named,  was  instru- 
mental in  completing  a  route  for  the  approaching  Southern 
Pacific  Railway.  Previous  attempts  had  been  made  during  the 
fifties,  of  the  last  century,  to  find  such  a  route,  but  it  was  left 
for  Colonel  Livermore  to  perfect  a  successful  expedition. 


220  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Colonel  Livermore's  experiences  were  similar  to  those  of 
other  explorers,  scouts,  and  travelers  in  the  Fort  Davis  region 
during  that  period.  His  explorations  followed  a  tour  of  ob- 
servation made  by  him  when  he  was  engaged  in  Mexico  on  a 
mission  of  international  courtesy,  together  with  the  Honorable 
Elihu  Washbourne,  and  his  topographical  assistants,  Butter- 
field  and  Cetera.  At  this  time  the  party  made  a  rough  survey 
from  Fort  Clark  to  Fort  Davis. 

An  appropriation  had  been  made  by  Congress  for  explora- 
tions to  establish  the  sites  for  a  series  of  military  posts  to  de- 
fend the  frontier  lands  from  any  possible  plundering  raids  from 
Mexico  or  from  the  Indian  reservations,  and  to  protect  the 
scanty  population  from  outlaws. 

Such  protection  made  explorations  more  possible  than 
before,  and  in  1880  an  expedition  was  organized  by  Colonel 
Livermore  at  San  Antonio  and  Fort  Clark.  This  consisted  of 
a  company  of  the  Eighth  United  States  Cavalry,  under  William 
A.  Shunk  and  John  W.  Pullman,  who  were  at  that  time  lieu- 
tenants in  the  United  States  army.  The  expedition  also  in- 
cluded a  detachment  of  Comanche  and  Seminole  Negro-Indian 
scouts  from  Lieutenant  Bullis'  company.  They  were  supplied 
with  plenty  of  six-mule  teams,  and  a  large  pack-train,  so  that 
on  passing  the  plains  and  climbing  the  mountains,  new  roads 
and  paths  were  opened  up.  From  Fort  Clark  to  Fort  Davis 
the  explorers  followed  almost  in  the  trail  made  by  Butterfield 
and  Cotera.  This  trail  has  been  erroneously  confused,  how- 
ever, with  the  trail  of  the  Butterfield  Daily  Overland  Mail ;  but 
which  has  no  connection  with  the  Butterfield-Cotera  trail. 

Colonel  Livermore  and  his  attendants  completed  the  wagon 
road  and  the  survey,  halting  at  points  some  twenty  or  thirty 
miles  apart,  which,  but  a  few  years  later,  became  stations  along 
the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad. 

In  the  year  of  1880  H.  Huelster  moved  to  Leon  Water- 
holes,  which,  in  an  earlier  period,  was  known  as  Ojo  de  Leon, 
to  take  charge  of  the  mail  stage  stand.  Later  he  was  joined  by 
Mrs.  Huelster  from  St.  Louis,  who  assisted  him  in  conducting 
the  stand,  with  the  help  of  an  old  Mexican. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  221 

The  stand  was  a  rudely  constructed  adobe  building,  contain- 
ing two  rooms.  The  only  interest  outside  of  daily  work  was 
the  daily  mail  coach,  which  gave  them  something  to  look  for- 
ward to  during  the  monotony  of  their  existence. 

The  Huelsters  had  sixteen  mules  to  care  for,  and  as  the 
Indian  troubles  had  abated  somewhat,  they  were  enabled  to  put 
the  mules  on  grass.  As  a  sentinel  for  the  mules,  an  old  gray 
cavalry  horse,  with  a  bell  jingling  about  his  neck,  was  staked 
out,  and  the  mules  stayed  in  close  vicinity. 

During  July  and  August  of  1880  great  rains  fell  at  Leon 
Waterholes.  The  dirt  roof  of  the  Huelster  adobe  leaked  so 
badly  that  the  passengers  who  came  on  the  stage  coach,  and 
the  Huelsters,  were  compelled  to  move  about  inside,  and  eat  in 
a  room  almost  knee-deep  in  water.  It  is  said  that  during  the 
rainy  season  of  the  year  the  quartermaster  clerks  at  Fort  Davis 
had  to  work  under  umbrellas  in  their  adobe  house  to  keep  the 
rain  off  their  ledgers. 

The  Huelsters  moved  from  Leon  Waterholes  to  Barila 
stand  in  1881.  Here  conditions  were  about  the  same.  They 
lived  in  a  similar  two-room  adobe,  which  had  a  dirt  roof, 
through  which  Mrs.  Huelster,  from  her  bed,  could  see  the 
north  star. 

The  stand  was  close  to  the  present  site  of  the  JEF  Ranch 
headquarters,  and  the  only  commodity  for  which  the  proprietors 
did  not  have  to  stake  their  last  dollar  was  the  water,  which  was 
procured  from  a  well  nine  feet  deep,  and  which  was  made 
deeper  from  time  to  time.  Prices  were  soaring,  and  as  the 
Huelsters  supplied  meals  to  the  passengers  who  came  on  the 
daily  stage  from  San  Antonio,  it  was  necessary  that  they  have 
a  full  table.  Coffee  and  sugar  sold  at  fifty  cents  a  pound ;  beans 
fifteen  cents  a  pound ;  raisins  fifty  cents  a  pound ;  starch  forty 
cents  a  pound.  A  bar  of  cheap  laundry  soap  cost  ten  cents, 
and  many  commodities  were  almost  unpurchasable.  To  allevi- 
ate the  high  cost  of  living,  Mrs.  Huelster  tried  to  keep  a  well- 
filled  and  flourishing  garden  to  furnish  vegetables  for  the  table, 
as  well  as  to  raise  many  chickens  to  furnish  eggs  and  fowl  for 
the  passengers. 


222  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

That  all  stage  stations  did  not  serve  the  passengers  so  bounti- 
fully as  did  the  Huelsters  is  evidenced  by  the  story  going  the 
rounds  at  the  time  Huelster  moved  to  the  Barila  station. 

One  night  the  stage  driver  to  Barila  had  two  very  fastidious 
passengers  coming  from  El  Paso,  on  their  way  back  to  civiliza- 
tion. They  were  exceedingly  irritable  from  their  journey  across 
the  country.  That  they  did  not  love  the  stage  coach  nor  the 
country  was  evident  from  their  many  complaints  which  they 
hurled,  ever  and  anon,  at  the  driver's  head. 

Finally,  they  requested  the  driver  to  awaken  them  for  break- 
fast, and  went  to  sleep.  They  arrived  at  Barali  station  at  two 
o'clock  in  the  morning. 

"Breakfast !"  shouted  the  driver,  shaking  and  kicking  them. 
The  men  tumbled  out,  stiff  and  sore  from  their  long  journey, 
and  went  grumbling  into  the  stage  stand  quarters. 

Even  at  that  unearthly  hour,  the  driver  announced  that  they 
must  have  breakfast  then  or  not  at  all,  as  the  next  stop  was  at 
Fort  Stockton,  fifty  miles  away. 

Inside  the  stage  stand  a  tender  brought  out  a  pan  of  beans, 
dry,  not  very  well  cooked,  and  rattling  in  the  pan. 

"I  can't  eat  beans,"  said  one  of  the  men  in  disgust.  "I  am  a 
victim  of  dyspepsia.  I  just  can't  eat  them." 

The  cook  then  served  them  with  bacon,  fat  and  juicy,  which 
he  slammed  down  before  his  guests  indifferently. 

"Bacon !"  exclaimed  the  other  passenger.  "Why,  whoever 
heard  of  one  eating  bacon  so  early  in  the  morning?  It  doesn't 
agree  with  me  this  early." 

"Well !"  retorted  the  driver,  snatching  up  a  bottle  from  the 
shelf,"  here's  some  French  mustard — eat  that,  damn  you!" 

One  of  the  tasks  of  the  Huelsters,  besides  serving  meals, 
was  to  note  the  time  of  arrival  and  departure  of  the  stages.  The 
company  kept  a  clock  in  good  order  in  each  stand  for  this  pur- 
pose, and  the  stage  drivers  carried  books,  like  modern  express 
messengers,  in  which  the  time  was  inserted  in  the  proper  places. 
There  was  no  postoffice  at  the  place,  but  the  Huelsters  got  their 
mail  from  the  little  pouch  that  contained  this  report  book. 

As  memories  of  hardships  seem  to  linger  with  a  greater 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  223 

poignance  than  those  of  happier  events,  Mrs.  Huelster  remem- 
bers occurrences  connected  with  their  pioneer  days.  Events 
were  so  few  and  far  between,  and  wealth  still  a  dream  not  soon 
to  come  true.  There  were  still  the  fears  of  the  Apache  Indians, 
and  the  attendant  privations  met  in  such  surroundings.  The 
Huelsters  were  the  first  married  couple  to  live  in  that  section 
away  from  the  garrisons,  and  their  cattle  were  the  first  to  be 
brought  to  that  vicinity.  The  first  child  born  away  from  a  gar- 
rison in  that  section  was  Frank  Huelster  at  Barila  station. 

During  the  same  year  Colonel  Shafter  was  in  command  at 
Fort  Davis,  where  the  monotony  of  camp  life  at  such  a  post  was 
almost  unbearable.  Colonel  Shafter  had  been  more  than  once 
criticised  for  his  general  lines  of  conduct,  which  were  said  to 
have  been  not  above  reproach.  Notwithstanding  this,  there 
were  a  number  of  humane  acts  which  the  world  deserves  to 
know. 

The  story  goes  that  with  several  officers,  Colonel  Shafter 
was  sitting  on  the  veranda  of  No.  7  officers'  quarters,  after  a 
particularly  good  meal,  when  a  soldier  walked  across  from  the 
barracks  and  saluted  him.  The  soldier  held  a  tinplate,  contain- 
ing a  few  morsels  of  meat  and  vegetables,  which,  he,  trembling 
with  indignation,  displayed  before  the  eyes  of  the  officers. 

"Sir,"  he  exclaimed,  "this  is  my  dinner !" 

The  Colonel  leaned  forward  in  his  easy  chair,  and  took  an 
inventory  of  the  plate  and  its  meagre  contents. 

"Well,  eat  it,  you  damn  fool!"  he  answered.  "I've  had 
mine." 

Without  a  word  the  soldier  saluted  and  turned  toward  the 
barracks.  Naturally,  the  soldier  continued  to  curse  the  service, 
and  also  the  Colonel,  as  did  his  comrades  who  heard  the  story. 
None  of  them  knew  the  outcome  of  the  soldier's  complaint,  but 
Shafter,  upon  the  disappearance  of  the  man,  sent  for  the  cap- 
tain of  his  company. 

"Sir,"  he  demanded,  when  the  captain  stood  before  him, 
"how  much  money  have  you  in  your  mess  fund  ?" 

"Eighteen  hundred  dollars,  Colonel,"  answered  the  captain, 
proudly ;  he  was  of  a  saving  nature. 


224  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

"Well,  sir,"  said  Colonel  Shafter  with  lowered  brows.  "Im- 
mediately change  that  eighteen  hundred  dollars  into  provisions 
for  your  company,  and  do  it  damn  quick  1" 

And  the  soldiers  never  knew  why  the  quality  of  their  food 
improved  so  quickly. 

During  the  same  year,  1880,  E.  L.  Gage  established  a  ranch 
south  of  Marathon,  with  headquarters  near  the  McKihney 
Springs,  named  for  T.  D.  McKinney,  Gage's  ranch  foreman, 
and  his  brother,  John  C,  who  also  worked  for  the  Gage  outfit. 

Following  the  establishment  of  the  Gage  ranch,  Francis 
Rooney,  a  nephew  of  the  old  pioneer,  Francis  Rooney,  came  and 
established  a  ranch  at  Leoncita,  twenty-five  miles  north  of 
Alpine.  There  were  no  fences  nor  fixed  boundaries  to  a  man's 
ranch  in  those  days,  and  the  roundup  reached  from  the  Pecos 
River  to  the  Guadalupe  Mountains,  east  and  west,  and  from  the 
Rio  Grande  to  the  Pecos,  north  and  south.  The  ranchmen 
drove  their  herds,  mostly  steers,  to  the  Indian  Territory,  in  the 
fall  of  the  year,  over  the  old  trail  that  ran  through  Fort  Stock- 
ton, down  to  Horsehead  Crossing,  up  through  Midland,  to 
Dodge  City,  Kansas,  where  the  northern  buyers  bought  the 
stock. 

All  during  this  time  there  was  the  continuous  fear  of  possi- 
ble attack  by  either  renegade  Mexicans  or  Indians.  J.  D.  Jack- 
son was  ranger  at  this  time  under  Captain  Bryan  Morris,  Co.  B. 
After  his  ranger  service,  Jackson  became  a  cowboy,  and,  finally, 
one  of  the  biggest  ranch  operators  in  the  country.  Jackson  at 
one  time  served  on  the  grand  jury,  when  six  indictments  were 
found  for  cow  stealing.  The  jury  agreed  that  no  member 
could  go  on  bond  of  the  accused  men,  and,  outside  of  the  jury 
there  was  no  one  else  who  could  furnish  bond. 

During  the  time  Jackson  was  ranger  there  were  many  ways 
planned  by  the  ranchmen  to  outwit  the  Indians  in  their  game 
of  pillaging  and  murdering.  One  of  the  most  interesting  is  the 
story  of  Colonel  George  W.  Baylor,  who  proved  to  be  more 
adroit  one  time  than  the  Indians.  Baylor,  with  a  Mexican,  was 
traveling  with  a  supply  wagon,  and  knew  the  Indians  would  kill 
him  to  get  his  provisions.  A  hundred  of  them  were  about  to 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  225 

attack  when  he  hastily  poisoned  some  of  the  sugar,  and  other 
supplies,  after  which  he  and  the  Mexican  jumped  on  their 
horses,  and  outran  the  pursuers.  The  Indians  took  the  supplies, 
and  several  of  them  died  from  the  effect. 

Another  rancher  who  was  instrumental  in  building  up  this 
region  was  Milton  Favor,  who  had  three  ranches,  on  two  of 
which  were  fort-like  houses.  One  was  the  Cibolo,  situated 
at  the  southeast  end  of  the  Chinati  Mountains,  where  the  still 
for  peach  brandy  was  built,  the  remains  of  which  are  standing 
to  this  day.  Another  ranch  was  Cienaga,  six  miles  east  of 
Shafter,  and  another  was  called  Morita,  meaning  Mulberry,  sit- 
uated southeast  of  Shafter  a  few  miles.  The  larger  fort-house 
was  located  at  the  Cibolo  ranch,  the  smaller  at  the  Cienaga 
ranch.  At  Morita  was  planted  a  large  peach  orchard,  while 
similar  smaller  ones  were  at  the  other  two  ranches.  The  F 
brand  of  cattle  was  well  known  at  this  time,  and  spread  from 
the  Rio  Grande  to  the  Pecos  River,  and  to  the  Guadalupe 
Mountains  on  the  north.  John  Beckwith  was  the  first  cowman 
to  locate  at  Pina  Colorada.  He  was  a  post  trader,  also,  and 
maintained  a  store  and  a  saloon.  After  operating  his  place  for 
five  years,  he  sold  out  to  Hess  Brothers  and  moved  to  Fort 
Davis,  where  he  lived  a  short  time,  ultimately  moving  to  New 
Mexico. 

In  the  late  '703  and  early  '8os  the  term  "rustler"  took  on  a 
new  meaning.  The  origin  of  the  word  resulted  from  the  free, 
open  range  of  country  at  that  time.  Ranchmen  employed 
cowboys  by  the  month  to  brand  all  mavericks,  or  unbranded 
cattle,  with  the  employer's  brand;  hence,  the  term  "rustler" 
became  a  synonym  for  a  cowboy  who  "rustled"  for  his  em- 
ployer. 

In  time,  however,  the  rustlers  decided  to  rustle  for  them- 
selves. Why  brand  all  unbranded  cattle  with  the  employer's 
brand,  when  they  could  use  one  of  their  own?  Consequently, 

tthey  began  to  brand  the  unknown  cattle  with  a  mark  of  their 
own.  This  privilege  soon  degenerated  into  the  pernicious  habit 
of  branding  other  people's  cattle,  by  "burning"  the  brand,  and 
other  methods. 


226  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

The  famous  band  of  rustlers  included  Sand  Hill  George, 
who  was  later  charged  with  murder;  Barney  Gallagher,  John 
Boyd,  members  of  the  Jesse  Evans  gang,  including  the  Graham 
brothers.  The  leader  of  this  gang  was  Billy  the  Kid.  They 
operated  in  Eastern  New  Mexico  and  in  the  hills  north  of  Fort 
Stockton.  The  gang  drove  stolen  cattle  to  New  Mexico  and 
sold  them.  In  New  Mexico  they  stole  other  cattle,  drove  them 
back  to  Texas  and  sold  them. 

The  rustlers  were  almost  as  feared  as  the  Indians  had 
been.  They  took  anything  and  everything  they  wanted,  regard- 
less of  right  or  law.  Any  person  who  was  a  lawbreaker  could 
join  the  gang,  and  the  band  was  made  up  of  men  from  almost 
every  state  in  the  Union.  Families  living  in  sections  where 
they  operated  were  in  constant  fear  of  these  men  who  possessed 
no  ideals  of  law  and  order,  and  who  stole  cattle  and  murdered 
citizens  without  the  least  compunction. 

A  very  interesting  story  is  told  of  an  incident  connected 
with  the  killing  of  Barney  Gallagher,  who  was  a  leader  among 
the  rustlers.  George  M.  Frazier  had  a  cow  outfit  working 
along  the  New  Mexico  border,  and  was  present  at  the  death  of 
Gallagher.  Two  cowboys,  Lon  Neil  and  Phil  Rock,  were  also 
present. 

It  appears  that  Barney  possessed  a  handsome  silver- 
mounted  hat,  which  he  had  left  either  to  Neil  or  Rock  on  his 
dying  bed.  There  was  some  contention  as  to  whom  it  was 
willed,  and  a  quarrel  ensued  between  the  two  men,  which  con- 
tinued until  they  arrived  days  afterward  at  Fort  Stockton. 

Late  on  an  evening  Neil  and  Rock  met  at  Silverstein's  sa- 
loon, where  they  agreed  to  settle  the  dispute.  Clasping  each 
other  by  their  left  hands,  and  aiming  their  pistols  with  their 
right  hands,  they  shot  each  other  to  death.  Neil  was  killed  out- 
right, and  Rock  lived  an  hour  or  two.  They  were  buried  face 
to  face  in  the  same  grave,  Neil  with  his  boots  on,  because  he 
had  died  immediately,  and  Rock  without  his  boots,  because 
they  had  been  removed  before  he  expired. 

During  the  rustler  reign  there  were  trials,  fears  and  sorrows 
among  the  women  who  lived  in  the  cow  country.  Pioneers, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  227 

indeed,  they  were ;  but  they  were  more  than  that.  Had  they 
not  been  strong,  courageous,  and  almost  fearless,  they  could 
not  have  survived  the  privations  and  fears  always  attendant  on 
their  lives.  Perhaps  it  was  the  open,  free  life  of  the  range,  too, 
that  imbued  them  with  that  unrelentless  strength  they  possessed, 
which  resulted  in  not  only  building  up  an  unsettled,  lawless 
country,  but  in  giving  to  the  world  some  of  its  staunchest  men 
and  women,  who  in  turn  will  produce  another  generation  of 
strong  citizens. 

One  particular  family  that  experienced  some  extreme  trials 
was  the  Casey  family,  herein  before  referred  to,  living  on  their 
ranch  in  the  country  infested  by  the  rustlers.  After  the  death 
of  Robert  Casey,  Mrs.  Casey,  who  was  a  pioneer  to  the  very 
marrow,  and  who  perhaps  learned  the  lesson  during  the  first 
of  those  days  that  a  woman's  "nerves"  are  half  imagination, 
made  an  earnest  effort  to  keep  her  family  together.  There 
were  two  daughters,  Mrs.  J.  L.  Moore,  of  Balmorhea,  Texas, 
and  Mrs.  L.  C.  Klasner,  at  present  living  in  Chaves  County, 
New  Mexico,  and  two  sons,  W.  D.  Casey  and  R.  A.  Casey, 
both  prominent  cattlemen  in  Southwest  Texas  and  New 
Mexico. 

The  Casey  ranch  was  more  than  once  invaded  by  the  rustler 
band,  who  stole  cattle,  and  committed  other  thefts.  Following 
one  of  the  cattle  thefts  by  the  band  at  one  time,  Mrs.  Casey  de- 
cided to  go  and  use  all  of  her  persuasive  powers  in  regaining 
her  property. 

Putting  two  of  the  children  in  the  wagon  with  her,  she 
started  for  Seven  Rivers.  They  had  to  spend  the  night  with  a 
Mexican  family,  and  the  next  morning  Mrs.  Casey  bravely  met 
the  rustlers,  pleading  for  her  cattle,  but  to  no  avail.  Unsuccess- 
ful in  her  attempts,  there  was  nothing  to  do  but  return  to  her 
ranch. 

While  at  Seven  Rivers,  the  Caseys  witnessed  a  shooting 
affair  caused  by  the  rustlers.  There  was  an  old  man  living  on 
a  farm  nearby,  and  the  rustlers  decided  they  would  get  rid  of 
him.  They  took  his  cattle  and  ordered  him  to  leave  the  country. 
In  his  flight,  he  had  paused  long  enough  at  Seven  Rivers  to  re- 


228  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

late  his  story,  when  at  that  junction  one  of  the  very  men  who 
had  robbed  him,  rode  up.  The  old  man  was  so  angry  that  the 
sight  of  the  rustler  drove  him  to  a  frenzy.  Notwithstanding 
the  poor  chance  he  had  of  escaping,  he  shot  the  rustler  off  his 
horse.  He  then  jumped  on  this  horse  and,  although  pursued, 
escaped. 

Mrs.  Casey  and  a  Mexican  woman  carried  the  wounded  man 
into  the  house,  after  which  Mrs.  Casey  left ;  but  she  heard  later 
that  he  recovered. 

At  one  time  a  man  named  Hart  came  to  the  Casey  ranch  and 
asked  for  lodging.  While  Mrs.  Casey  was  preparing  his  supper, 
one  of  the  children  became  interested  in  the  large  Mexican  hat 
he  was  wearing.  The  band  string  was  of  an  unusual  pattern. 
The  man  left,  and,  shortly  afterward  a  Mexican  came  to  the 
ranch  wearing  the  identical  hat.  One  of  the  children  who  had 
been  attracted  by  Hart's  hat  cord,  called  her  mother's  attention 
to  it,  but  Mrs.  Casey  thought  nothing  of  it. 

It  developed,  however,  that  Hart  was  missing,  and  his  body 
was  later  found  in  a  hole  some  distance  from  the  house  of  the 
Mexican  who  was  wearing  the  hat.  When  the  Mexican  found 
he  was  suspected  of  the  murder,  he  tried  to  escape,  but  was 
intercepted,  and  captured  by  a  band  of  cowboys. 

Many  men  would  break  jail,  and  stop  at  the  Casey  ranch 
for  provisions.  The  kind-hearted  ranch  woman  always  fed 
them.  On  one  occasion  the  family  had  just  eaten  breakfast, 
when,  to  their  consternation,  they  saw  Billy  the  Kid,  the  fero- 
cious outlaw  head  of  the  rustler  band,  ride  up  to  the  gate.  He 
had  been  in  a  fight  the  day  before,  and  had  lost  his  horse,  saddle 
and  bridle.  He  found  a  little  pony  which  he  rode  to  the  Casey 
ranch,  where  they  gave  him  breakfast,  glad  for  him  to  go  on 
his  way. 

These  glimpses  of  the  rustler  days  can  give  but  a  faint  idea 
of  the  hardships  and  dangers  of  the  pioneer  cattlemen,  and  their 
families.  In  later  years,  after  the  word  "ranchman"  became 
synonymous  with  wealth,  the  cry  has  arisen  that  the  country 
made  them.  But  it  has  been  the  history  of  every  pioneer  land, 
that  in  the  battle  for  life  and  in  the  protection  of  family  and 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  229 

property,  only  the  fittest  and  strongest  have  survived;  and, 
justly,  wealth  and  prosperity  have  come  to  those  hardy  pioneers 
who,  while  they  were  building  for  themselves,  built  up  the 
frontier. 


230  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 


CHAPTER  XVII 

Much  history  has  been  written  about  the  Santa  Fe  Trail ; 
little  about  the  Chihuahua  Trail.  Yet,  statistics  show  that  more 
commerce  in  merchandise,  silver,  copper,  lead  and  gold  passed 
over  this  trail  than  over  the  Santa  Fe  Trail. 
_  The  Chihuahua  Trail,  as  it  became  known,  was  begun  in 
1848  by  a  small  group  of  pioneers,  including  John  W.  Spencer, 
John  B.  Davis,  Ed  Frobboese,  August  Santleben,  John  Holly, 
Sha  Hogan,  John  Burgess,  Brooks,  Calderon,  Richard  Daly, 
William  Russell  and  others.  These  were  the  first  set  of  ad- 
venturers, who  later  became  known  as  the  trail  drivers,  to  com- 
plete successful  journeys;  although  the  Connelly  expedition, 
from  Chihuahua  City,  across  Texas,  into  Arkansas,  and  return, 
was  made  in  1839. 

The  Connelly  expedition  was  the  first  commercial  enterprise 
undertaken  to  establish  trade  relations  between  northern  Mexico 
and  the  United  States,  other  than  by  way  of  the  Santa  Fe  Trail. 
This  expedition  resulted  in  a  failure,  however,  due  to  a  change 
of  administration  at  the  port  of  entry,  Presidio  del  Norte,  and 
a  resultant  raise  in  the  customs  duties,  which  dampened  the 
ardor  of  the  merchants  at  that  time. 

For  these  reasons  the  Chihuahua  Trail  was  not  used  again 
until  the  trail  drivers,  who  had  settled  along  the  banks  of  the 
Rio  Grande,  opposite  Presidio  del  Norte,  sought  an  outlet 
through  the  Big  Bend  to  San  Antonio.  It  was  not  long  before 
they  were  hauling  through  freight  back  and  forth  between  these 
metropolises  of  Texas  and  Mexico. 

The  first  trips  were  made  prior  to  the  Civil  War  from  In- 
dianola  to  Chihuahua,  Mexico,  a  journey  of  eleven  hundred  and 
fifty  miles.  But  it  was  not  until  1869  that  the  trade  reached 
substantial  proportions.  The  goods  were  loaded  out  of  bonded 
warehouses  belonging  to  commission  merchants  in  Indianola 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  231 

and  San  Antonio,  and  the  trail  drivers  gave  a  heavy  bond,  pay- 
able to  the  United  States,  as  a  guarantee  of  their  responsibility 
and  to  insure  prompt  transportation  of  supplies. 

The  trail  ran  westward  from  Indianola  to  San  Antonio, 
thence  to  San  Felipe  Springs,  which  is  to-day  Del  Rio.  From 
this  point  it  led  to  the  lowest  ford  on  the  Pecos  River,  a  few 
miles  above  where  is  now  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  high 
bridge  spanning  the  river  at  a  height  of  321  feet  above  the 
water.  It  then  turned  in  a  northerly  direction  to  Horse-Head 
Crossing,  where  the  Fort  Concho  trail  intersected  with  the 
route.  The  next  important  point  on  the  trail,  forty  miles 
further  west,  was  the  military  post,  Fort  Stockton.  The  en- 
tire distance  of  230  miles  from  Del  Rio  to  Fort  Stockton  was  un- 
inhabited. The  country  was  open  and  rough,  but  its  most  ob- 
jectionable feature  consisted  in  the  strong  alkali  dust  which 
almost  smothered  teamsters  and  drivers. 

Nine  miles  west  of  Fort  Stockton  was  located  Leon  Water- 
holes,  with  its  clear,  sparkling  waters.  The  main  spring  was 
thirty  feet  in  diameter,  and  was  so  deep  that  the  bottom  could 
not  be  touched. 

The  Chihuahua  trail  diverged  from  the  El  Paos  road  at  the 
Leon  Waterholes,  and  followed  a  route  leading  in  a  southwest 
direction  to  Presidio  del  Norte.  Thirty  miles  beyond  Leon 
Waterholes  was  the  Leoncito,  a  watering  place,  which  was  set- 
tled in  1869  by  Joe  Head;  while  forty  miles  farther  was  the 
Burgess  Spring,  which  also  was  known  as  Charco  de  Alsate. 
The  trail  then  ran  through  Paisano  Pass,  twenty  miles  beyond 
to  Antelope  Springs,  better  known  as  Berrindo,  while  thirty 
miles  beyond  this,  arrived  at  the  Tinaja  San  Esteben.  After 
this  came  El  Alamito  at  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  which  is 
forty  miles  from  Presidio  del  Norte.  Alamito  was  settled  in 
1870  by  John  Davis. 

These  distances  made  195  miles,  and  the  road  was  not  in 
very  bad  shape,  except  the  last  forty  miles,  which  was  hilly,  and 
at  intervals  the  sand  was  heavy.  However,  there  was  an  abun- 
dance of  grass,  which  afforded  good  pasturage. 

Presidio  del  Norte  was  situated  on  the  Mexican  side  of  the 


232  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Rio  Grande,  below  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Conchos,  and  one  of 
the  old  presidios  was  on  the  Texas  side.  Custom  houses  were 
established  by  the  two  republics,  in  both  the  American  and 
Mexican  towns  through  which  a  large  quantity  of  goods  passed. 

For  the  expedition  prairie  schooners,  or  large  covered  wag- 
ons, were  used.  These  were  immense  structures,  and  the  fol- 
lowing dimensions  of  a  few  of  the  parts  will  convey  an  idea  of 
their  strength :  the  hind  wheels  measured  five  feet  ten  inches  in 
height,  and  the  tire  was  six  inches  wide  and  one  inch  thick; 
the  front  wheels  were  built  similar  to  the  hind  wheels,  but  were 
twelve  inches  lower ;  the  axles  were  of  solid  iron,  with  spindles 
three  inches  in  diameter.  All  the  solid  running  gear  was  built 
in  proportion  for  hard  service.  The  wagon  bed  was  twenty- 
four  feet  long,  four  and  one-half  feet  wide,  and  the  sides  were 
five  and  a  half  feet  high.  Wagon  bows  attached  to  each  were 
overhung  with  heavy  tarpaulins,  which  completely  covered  the 
sides  and  protected  the  freight.  On  the  covers  the  train  owner's 
name  was  painted,  and  beneath,  the  number  of  the  wagon,  in 
which  freight  was  loaded  as  it  was  entered  on  the  bill  of  lading. 

Every  wagon  was  furnished  with  a  powerful  brake,  which 
was  used  to  regulate  the  speed  when  going  down  steep  hills. 
The  beam  that  constituted  the  brake  was  seven  feet  in  length, 
and  was  made  out  of  choice  hickory  timber.  It  was  placed  be- 
neath the  wagon  box,  behind  the  hind  wheels,  in  two  heavy 
iron  stirrups,  that  were  secured  to  the  frame  on  either  side  by 
heavy  braces  or  bolts.  A  block  of  wood  was  fastened  near  each 
end,  which  pressed  against  the  wheels  when  the  lever  was 
manipulated  by  the  driver  in  his  seat.  He  could  control  the  mo- 
tion of  the  wagon,  according  to  the  grade,  by  forcing  the  brake 
against  the  wheels  until  they  ceased  to  revolve,  or  check  them  at 
will  with  a  motion  of  his  hand  as  easily  as  a  motorman  controls 
his  car.  Two  heavy  chains  were  attached  to  the  wagon  body  for 
use  in  cases  of  necessity.  Occasionally,  accidents  happened  to 
the  brakes,  and  the  heavily  loaded  wagon  would  become  uncon- 
trollable. As  a  result,  driver  and  mules  were  often  crushed  to 
death  under  the  wheels. 

An  average  load  for  such  a  wagon  was  about  seven  thou- 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  233 

sand  pounds,  but  generally  with  sixteen  small  mules  attached, 
sixteen  bales  of  cotton  was  a  load.  The  great  capacity  of  such 
wagons  may  be  estimated  by  comparing  them  with  the  wagons 
used  by  the  United  States  government  which  hold  an  average 
load  of  three  thousand  pounds,  with  six  large  mules. 

The  mules  used  for  freighting  purposes  were  small,  but 
active,  and  possessed  an  untiring  energy,  with  a  constitution 
that  enabled  them  to  endure  extreme  hardships.  The  manner 
in  which  they  were  hitched  brought  them  close  to  their  load,  and 
made  them  almost  a  unit  when  a  steady  pull  was  necessary. 

Before  the  prairie  schooner  was  adopted  as  a  means  of  com- 
munication between  Texas  and  the  northern  states  of  Mexico, 
commercial  energy  in  that  direction  was  hampered;  but  after 
they  had  been  introduced,  and  when  the  benefit  to  be  derived 
from  direct  trade  between  these  regions  and  the  seaports  of 
Texas  was  understood,  wagon  trains  of  six  or  more  prairie 
schooners  were  introduced,  with  a  capacity  to  move  a  large 
amount  of  freight  in  a  given  time.  These  were  conducted  un- 
der a  systematic  management,  which  inspired  confidence.  As 
a  result,  it  was  not  long  before  both  countries  realized  advan- 
tages through  the  arrangement. 

San  Antonio  was  encouraged  to  extend  her  business  con- 
nection with  Mexico,  and  much  was  done  toward  stimulating 
the  trade  between  Mexico  and  the  countries  of  Europe,  through 
Texas  seaports,  which  continued  to  grow  until  it  reached  large 
proportions. 

A  way  was  opened  up  for  the  railroad  which  followed  in  the 
wake  of  the  trail  drivers,  and  which  removed  all  competition  in 
the  way  of  travel  and  transportation  by  offering  superior  ad- 
vantages. The  prairie  schooner  was  an  humble  pioneer  that 
plodded  its  way  slowly  over  the  plain  and  mountain,  through 
a  wilderness  peopled  by  warlike  savages;  yet,  it  was  appre- 
ciated in  its  day,  and  its  arrival  at  its  destination  was  greeted 
with  far  more  interest  than  is  manifested  when  a  modern,  up- 
to-date  train  arrives  at  its  station. 

The  Mexican  trains  could  not  compare  with  those  of  the 
Americans  in  general  appearance,  but,  in  many  respects  they 


234  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

were  decidedly  superior,  and  were  managed  more  successfully 
because  of  the  strictness  with  which  they  were  conducted.  The 
Mexican  wagons  were  clumsily  built,  with  beds  twenty-four  feet 
long  that  rested  on  heavy  running  gears,  and  had  no  sides.  They 
were  capable  of  carrying  heavy  loads.  A  wagon  train  of  twelve 
wagons,  each  drawn  by  fourteen  mules,  distributed  in  three 
sets  of  four  working  abreast,  and 'two  to  the  tongue,  would 
transport  120,000  pounds  of  freight  with  ease  over  the  roads 
in  Mexico. 

The  Mexican  mules  were  superior  to  the  American  mules, 
because  they  were  raised  on  Mexico  ranches,  where  the  native 
drivers  could  select  the  best.  Neither  did  they  depend  upon 
grass  alone  for  feed,  as  the  Americans  were  forced  to  do,  but 
always  carried  a  sufficient  amount  of  corn  and  wheat  straw, 
which  kept  the  animals  in  fine  condition.  The  teams  belonging 
to  the  Americans  showed  hard  service  because  of  their  long 
journeys,  as  they  were  frequently  exposed  to  privations  on 
drives  of  ninety  miles  in  length. 

The  same  drivers  were  employed  continuously  by  train 
owners  in  Mexico,  and  were  subject  to  strict  obedience.  The 
mules  were  easily  controlled,  as  they  had  become  trained  to 
routine  movements.  So  well  were  they  trained  that  when  the 
cap  oral  walked  to  the  center  of  the  corral  among  the  loose 
mules,  he  had  nothing  to  do  but  crack  his  whip  and  they  imme- 
diately filed  into  their  proper  places  and  stood  with  their  heads 
raised,  waiting  for  the  bridles. 

The  Gonzales  brothers,  of  Saltillo,  owned  a  train  of  twenty- 
five  carts  with  five  mules  each.  They  used  shafts  in  which  a 
mule  was  hitched,  with  one  on  either  side,  and  two  in  front. 
These  mules  were  so  well  trained,  it  is  said,  that  they  knew 
their  own  carts  from  the  others,  and  would  back  up  to  their 
proper  places  of  their  own  accord. 

The  trail  drivers  experienced  many  hardships  during  these 
journeys,  such  as  attacks  by  Indians  and  scarcity  of  water.  The 
scarcity  of  water  and  grass  on  the  route  frequently  made  it 
necessary  for  them  to  divide  their  daily  journey  into  three 
drives,  or  camps,  especially  where  the  watering  places  were 


J.  M.  DAUGHERTY 


SCENES  ON  F.  S.  MILLS'  FARM 
Lion  Valley,  Pecos  County 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  235 

fifty  miles  apart.  In  making  a  long  drive,  they  generally  started 
about  one  o'clock,  postmeridian,  and  drove  until  about  six,  when 
they  stopped  to  eat  supper  and  graze  the  teams.  They  again 
started  at  ten  o'clock  at  night,  and  drove  until  three  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  when  they  camped  without  water.  At  seven 
they  were  again  under  way,  and  by  ten  o'clock,  they  arrived 
at  the  watering  place,  where  the  teams  were  turned  loose  to 
graze  for  about  four  hours,  after  which  they  were  again  watered 
and  the  journey  resumed.  Traveling  at  night  made  it  possible 
for  the  teams  to  do  with  less  water,  along  that  portion  of  the 
trail  where  it  was  scarce. 

However,  the  inconveniences  they  experienced  on  account 
of  a  scarcity  of  water  could  in  no  way  compare  to  the  necessity 
of  protecting  the  mules  from  the  Indians.  Knowing  the  In- 
dians were  constantly  watching  for  a  chance  to  overpower 
them,  the  trail  drivers  were  compelled  to  keep  forever  on  the 
alert  against  surprises.  Sentries,  similar  to  the  military,  were 
posted  about  the  camps,  and  teamsters  stood  on  guard  while 
the  mules  were  grazing.  The  type  of  arms  used  on  the  trains 
were  Sharp  needle-guns,  of  fifty  caliber,  made  especially  for 
the  trail  drivers.  The  gun  was  carried  in  a  scabbard,  fast- 
ened to  the  driver's  saddle  mule,  and  when  in  camp  it  was 
usually  placed  against  the  left  wheel  of  the  driver's  wagon, 
within  easy  reaching  distance.  A  forty-five  caliber  six-shooter 
also  was  carried  in  a  scabbard  on  a  cartridge  belt,  strapped 
about  the  driver's  waist.  It,  too,  was  Always  in  reach.  The 
"belt  carried  fifty  rounds  of  cartridges  for  the  Sharp  needle- 
gun,  and  twelve  rounds  for  the  pistol.  The  needle-guns  ranged 
about  800  feet  and  the  pistols  about  300  feet. 

As  drivers,  Mexicans  were  found  to  be  more  efficient  than 
the  Americans.  In  an  almost  uncanny  manner,  they  could  pick 
out  their  teams  in  the  darkest  night,  when  colors  were  not  dis- 
tinguishable, rarely  making  a  mistake,  and  taking  but  little  more 
time  to  hitch  at  night  than  in  daylight.  This  talent  seemed  to 
be  confined  to  teamsters  of  the  Mexican  race. 

Every  wagon  train  was  under  the  personal  supervision  of  a 
wagon  master.  He  directed  the  train's  movements,  and  was 


236  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

responsible  for  his  train  in  the  same  degree  as  the  modern  rail- 
way freight  conductor.  The  next  person  in  importance,  was 
the  cap  oral.  He  was  in  charge  of  the  herd  of  extra  mules  and 
the  teams  after  they  were  unhitched  from  the  wagons;  he 
directed  the  way  to  watering  places,  grass,  and  camping  places, 
and  he  prevented  the  teamsters  from  mistreating  their  mules. 

A  train  of  twelve  wagons  was  divided  into  two  six- wagon 
sections,  with  each  section  in  charge  of  a  captain  who  was 
held  accountable  for  certain  duties  and  the  accuracy  with  which 
his  wagons  were  placed  when  forming  a  corral.  These  captains 
were  expert  drivers,  and  when  forming  a  corral,  errors  seldom 
occurred,  even  in  an  emergency.  The  driving  was  done  sys- 
tematically, changes  being  made  in  the  positions  of  the  wagons, 
in  order  that  no  section  should  be  strained  too  much  on  account 
of  frequent  stops,  which  would  occur  if  they  traveled  con- 
tinuously in  the  same  order. 

The  corral  was  an  important  institution  on  the  trail,  on 
account  of  the  large  number  of  animals  to  be  handled  and  fed. 
It  was  indispensable  for  the  safety  both  of  the  animals  and  the 
drivers,  when  encamped,  and  served  as  sufficient  fortification 
for  man  and  beast,  when  attacked  by  Indians  or  other  enemies. 

To  form  a  corral,  the  wagons  of  the  first  section  were 
driven  in  a  half-circle  to  the  right  of  the  road,  while  those  of 
the  second  section  were  driven  in  a  half-circle  to  the  left  of 
the  road;  thus  all  teams  were  brought  facing  inward  toward 
the  center  of  the  completed  circle.  The  openings,  or  gaps,  be- 
tween the  wagons  were  closed  with  heavy  ropes,  stretched  from 
wagon  to  wagon,  and  these  could  be  removed  quickly  when 
the  mules  were  to  be  driven  out  to  graze  or  to  water. 

A  corral  could  be  formed  as  readily  in  any  open  space  where 
there  were  no  roads  or  guides,  and  they  were  a  necessity  on 
account  of  their  convenience  which  no  other  arrangement  could 
have  supplied.  The  mules  were  always  taken  from  the  wagon 
and  unharnessed  on  the  outside,  and  there  was  no  place  in 
which  they  could  have  been  secured  so  well.  When  turned 
loose,  they  passed  through  the  rear  openings,  into  the  corral, 
where  they  were  fed  in  long  canvas  troughs  which  were 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  237 

stretched  from  the  wagons.  After  feeding,  they  were  driven 
in  a  herd  through  one  of  the  large  openings  to  a  watering  place 
or  pasture  by  drivers  in  charge  of  the  caporal. 

When  the  mules  had  returned  to  the  corral,  the  caporal  gave 
the  first  intimation  that  it  was  time  to  move  by  cracking  his 
whip  in  the  center  of  the  corral,  thus  ordering  the  mules  to  take 
their  places.  Soldiers  did  not  move  in  a  more  orderly  man- 
ner to  their  places  than  did  the  mules,  who  knew  their  places 
as  well  as  the  trained  horses  of  a  fire  engine.  Frequently  when 
the  herd  was  driven  in  from  the  grazing,  the  better  trained 
mules  did  not  wait  for  the  signal,  but,  with  almost  human 
intelligence,  took  their  places  at  once  with  their  backs  against 
the  wagon,  thus  avoiding  the  jam  caused  by  the  commotion  the 
herd  was  thrown  into  by  the  crack  of  the  cap  oral's  whip. 

When  traveling  through  the  western  country,  a  train  was 
occasionally  attacked  by  Indians,  and  it  became  necessary  to 
form  a  corral  immediately  for  the  protection  of  the  men  and 
mules.  On  such  occasions,  the  wagons  were  placed  in  the  same 
order  as  for  an  ordinary  camp,  except  that  no  openings  were 
left  in  between.  Thus  protected,  the  train  men  could  repel 
any  attack  that  might  be  made,  unless  overwhelmed  by  numbers. 

Sometimes  the  trail  drivers  were  caught  in  the  midst  of 
terrible  blizzards.  On  one  occasion,  during  a  trip  from  Chi- 
huahua, the  drivers  encountered  a  ten  days'  spell  of  sleet  and 
snow,  and  at  one  place,  the  head  of  the  Texas  Concho,  the  grass 
was  covered  for  days  with  snow.  In  1 866,  a  long  train  of 
wagons  in  charge  of  Capt.  James  Edgar,  bound  for  El  Paso, 
was  exposed  to  such  a  blizzard  that  sixty  mules  were  lost.  The 
mules  had  gathered  close  together  for  protection  against  the 
cold,  but  were  frozen  to  death ;  and  the  place  was  known  for 
years  afterward  as  "Edgar's  Boneyard." 

In  the  spring  of  1870,  the  wagon  train  belonging  to  August 
Santleben,  on  its  way  to  Chihuahua,  had  reached  Fort  Davis. 
The  old  trail  driver,  delayed  by  business  in  San  Antonio,  had 
arranged  to  follow  on  the  overland  stage,  and  overtake  it  at 
this  point.  Colonel  Terrell,  paymaster  in  the  United  States 
army,  was  also  on  the  stage,  and,  traveling  under  his  protection, 


238  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

was  Sister  Stephens,  of  the  Order  of  the  Incarnate  Word,  of 
San  Antonio,  who  was  on  her  way  to  visit  Fort  Davis,  in  the 
interest  of  the  orphans.  There  were  several  other  passengers 
on  the  stage,  including  Mr.  Joe  Head  and  Mr.  Peter  Gallager, 
of  Fort  Stockton,  two  soldiers,  and  others.  Sister  Stephens 
was  an  entertaining  traveling  companion,  always  in  a  pleasant 
humor  with  the  trail  drivers  and  passengers.  She  was  one  of 
the  few  women  making  such  a  trip  at  that  time. 

One  of  the  trail  drivers  asked  Sister  Stephens  what  service 
could  she  render  in  case  of  an  Indian  attack. 

"Sir,"  she  replied  with  a  smile,  "I  would  have  work  to  do. 
While  you  do  the  fighting,  I'll  do  the  praying." 

On  his  return  trip,  Santleben  passed  the  place  where  the 
Miguel  brothers  had  met  with  a  serious  misfortune  a  short  time 
before.  The  Indians  attacked  their  camp,  eighteen  miles  east 
of  Johnson's  Run,  and  captured  the  entire  herd  of  mules  be- 
longing to  the  train.  The  cart  men  retreated  to  an  elevation  and, 
with  loose  rock,  built  a  circular  breastwork,  behind  which  they 
defended  themselves  until  the  enemy  retired  with  the  herd. 
Two  Mexicans  were  killed  in  the  engagement,  and  were  buried 
at  the  foot  of  the  hill  where  the  rude  fortification  was  situated. 

Soon  after  Santleben's  return,  his  wagons  were  loaded  with 
government  freight  and  sutler's  supplies,  for  Fort  Davis  and 
Fort  Quitman.  This  train  was  placed  in  charge  of  Entinio 
Mageras,  an  experienced  wagonmaster.  After  delivering  the 
freight,  according  to  contract,  Mageras  with  his  empty  wagons, 
established  a  camp  to  recuperate  his  teams,  near  Beaver  Lake, 
adjoining  the  Eighteen  Mile  crossing  on  Devil's  River.  The 
mules,  which  were  turned  loose  to  graze  on  the  excellent 
pasturage,  were  left  unguarded.  No  danger  was  suspected,  un- 
til the  quiet  was  broken  by  the  fearful  warwhoops  of  the 
Comanches.  Before  the  trail  men  could  assemble  to  resist,  the 
Indians  charged  between  the  wagons  and  the  grazing  herd. 
The  caporal  and  four  men  were  cut  off  and  escaped  through 
flight.  The  majority  of  the  Indians  engaged  the  remaining 
teamsters  in  battle,  while  the  remainder,  after  roping  the  bell 
mare,  took  charge  of  the  herd  and  galloped  away  over  the  hills. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  239 

The  men  in  the  camp,  though  much  startled,  returned  the 
fire  of  the  marauders,  but  the  battle  quickly  ended  when  the 
Indians  secured  the  rich  prize  they  were  after.  A  half-hearted 
attempt  was  made  to  give  chase  on  foot,  but  its  uselessness  was 
apparent  and  the  idea  was  abandoned. 

The  caporal  and  his  herders  were  thought  to  have  been 
killed  in  the  first  attack ;  but  anxiety  on  this  score  was  removed 
when  they  ventured  forth  from  their  place  of  refuge.  For- 
tunately, none  of  the  men  were  hurt,  and  if  casualties  occurred 
among  the  Indians,  the  fact  was  never  known.  It  cost  Santle- 
ben  six  hundred  dollars  to  get  his  train  pulled  into  San  Antonio. 
Santleben  and  his  trail  drivers  possessed  a  fine  lot  of  teams 
and  prairie  schooners  with  which  to  carry  on  their  work.  His 
experimental  trips  to  and  from  Chihuahua  had  netted  him 
handsome  returns,  and  he  decided  to  confine  his  freight  line 
to  that  point. 

One  of  the  celebrated  characters  on  the  Chihuahua  Trail, 
who  worked  for  Santleben  at  this  time,  was  Olojio  Danda,  a 
citizen  of  Presidio  del  Norte.  He  was  celebrated,  not  as  a 
trail  driver,  but  as  a  great  Indian  fighter.  His  reputation  was 
acquired  on  the  trail  that  passed  between  Presidio  del  Norte  and 
Fort  Davis,  over  which  marauding  bands  of  Mescalero  Apaches 
and  other  warlike  tribes  passed  in  making  raids  in  the  Big  Bend 
and  Mexico.  Occasionally  the  Indians  fought  openly,  but  their 
favorite  mode  of  attack  was  from  ambush.  The  services  of 
such  men  as  Danda  were  always  much  in  demand  in  that  re- 
gion, because  of  their  knowledge  of  Indian  warfare,  and  because 
their  courage  was  equal  to  any  occasion. 

Considerable  light  is  thrown  upon  internal  conditions  in 
Mexico,  especially  in  Chihuahua,  in  and  around  1874,  by  ac- 
counts drawn  from  the  trail  drivers  of  that  period.  Upon 
reaching  Chihuahua  City  the  teams  were  quartered  at  Meson  de 
Messarre.  This  establishment  was  a  great  convenience  to  trav- 
elers and  freighters,  and  similar  ones  are  found  in  many  cities 
throughout  Mexico.  Senor  Messarre  was  the  owner  of  this 
particular  meson  or  hotel.  The  buildings  of  the  meson  formed 
a  large  square,  and  along  the  walls  were  arranged  stalls, 


240  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

equipped  with  cement  troughs  sufficient  for  stabling  at  least 
six  hundred  animals.  The  square  inside  had  sufficient  room 
for  trains  of  heavy  wagons.  In  the  center  stood  the  granary, 
a  peculiar  stone  structure,  in  the  shape  of  a  bottle,  with  a  round 
tower  which  resembled  the  neck.  The  structure,  resembling 
the  silo  of  the  American  farmer,  was  seventy-five  feet  high  and 
twenty  feet  in  diameter,  with  steps  that  wound  around  the 
outside  to  the  top,  to  a  platform.  The  corn  was  carried  up 
and  deposited  in  an  opening  at  the  top.  When  the  tower  was 
full,  the  opening  was  sealed  with  adobe  mortar,  which  made  it 
air-tight.  Its  capacity  was  about  fifteen  thousand  bushels,  and 
that  quantity  could  be  kept  for  three  years,  in  perfect  condition, 
without  becoming  infested  with  weevils. 

A  few  days  after  the  arrival  of  the  trail  driver  who  related 
the  incident,  a  large  body  of  friendly  Indians  came  into  Chi- 
huahua City  to  celebrate  a  recent  victory  they  had  gained  over 
one  of  the  tribes  to  the  northeast  about  fifty  miles  distant.  The 
authorities  of  the  State  of  Chihuahua  had  granted  them  the 
privilege  of  passing  through  the  streets  in  triumphal  procession, 
for  the  purpose  of  displaying  the  trophies  they  had  won  in  their 
foray  into  the  enemies'  country. 

The  wild  Indians  represented  by  the  Apaches,  Comanches, 
Lipans,  Navajos,  and  other  fierce  tribes,  had  proved  them- 
selves a  great  scourge  on  the  northern  part  of  Mexico, 
where  they  had  materially  injured  the  country.  In  order  to 
suppress  them,  Governor  Luis  Terrazas,  of  the  State  of  Chi- 
huahua, offered  a  reward  of  $250  for  the  scalp  of  every  un- 
friendly Indian.  The  agreement  was  that  the  scalp  should  be 
identified  by  other  trophies  taken  from  the  enemy,  so  that  no 
impositions  should  be  practiced.  As  the  dress  and  ornaments, 
as  well  as  the  bows  and  arrows,  of  every  tribe  were  different 
and  could  easily  be  recognized,  by  those  familiar  with  them, 
deception  could  not  easily  be  practiced.  These  were  turned 
over  to  the  government  officials,  and,  if  the  evidence  was  suffi- 
cient, the  reward  was  immediately  paid. 

The  friendly  Indians  on  the  reservations,  influenced  by  this 
reward,  made  a  regular  business  of  waging  war  on  the  wild 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  241 

tribes,  and  would  absent  themselves  from  their  villages  for 
the  purpose  of  seeking  scalps.  Frequently  their  object  was 
accomplished  by  surprises  that  resulted  in  the  extermination  of 
whole  Indian  settlements.  The  state  did  not  concern  itself 
with  their  manner  of  warfare;  it  approved  any  method  the 
Indians  cared  to  use. 

An  enmity  had  always  existed  between  the  peaceful  and 
warlike  tribes ;  and  it  was  easy  to  arouse  the  cupidity  of  the 
former  by  offering  liberal  rewards.  By  such  means,  Chihuahua 
rid  itself  of  a  large  number  of  savages,  and  gave  protection  to 
its  citizens. 

The  celebration  above  referred  to  was  not  only  approved 
by  the  city  authorities,  but  was  arranged  beforehand  by  them. 
The  procession  entered  the  city  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, headed  by  a  brass  band.  The  warriors  followed  on  horse- 
back in  their  war  paint,  and  decked  out  in  all  their  finery.  About 
fifteen  of  them  carried  long  poles,  to  which  were  secured  the 
scalps  of  their  victims,  killed  in  battle,  together  with  the  bows 
and  other  trophies  necessary  to  prove  their  valor.  The  women 
and  children  of  the  tribe  came  next  on  horses,  and  also  in  sin- 
gle file.  Their  oddity  and  bizarre  appearance  added  much  to 
the  effect.  .  :^. 

In  this  same  year,  August  Santleben  started  for  Texas,  with 
his  wagons  heavily  loaded  with  freight,  to  which  was  added  a 
large  sum  of  money.  Upon  arriving  at  Mula,  about  forty  miles 
south  of  the  Rio  Grande,  where  a  custom  house  officer  was 
stationed,  Santleben  was  arrested  and  his  train  sequestered 
upon  the  suspicion  that  part  of  his  freight  was  contraband. 

The  preliminary  circumstances  that  led  up  to  the  arrest  Ot 
Santleben  were  connected  with  the  fact  that  the  Mexican  gov- 
ernment, in  order  to  get  rid  of  copper  money  that  flooded  the 
country,  provided  for  the  coinage  of  five  and  ten  cent  pieces, 
and  the  mint  in  Chihuahua  was  obliged  to  coin  ten  percent 
of  its  total  silver  output  in  coins  of  such  denominations.  As 
the  merchants  of  the  city  were  opposed  to  retiring  the  copper 
money  from  circulation,  because  it  was  the  money  of  the 
poorer  classes,  they  agreed  among  themselves  that  they  would 


242  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

not  pay  out  the  small  silver  coin,  which  was  received  in  their 
business  transactions.  Consequently  large  sums  accumulated 
on  their  hands,  and  when  the  government  learned  that  it  was 
unpopular,  and  again  made  copper  the  legal  tender,  they  had 
to  dispose  of  it  in  some  way. 

Small  change  was  very  scarce1  in  San  Antonio  at  that  time, 
especially  five  and  ten  cent  pieces,  and  such  denominations 
readily  commanded  ten  per  cent  premium.  The  exorbitant 
export  duties  exacted  by  the  government,  amounting  to  ten 
per  cent,  prohibited  the  shipping  of  the  five  and  ten  cent  pieces 
through  legitimate  channels;  therefore,  certain  persons  deter- 
mined to  avoid  this  duty  by  smuggling  the  money  across  into 
the  United  States,  in  order  to  take  advantage  of  the  excellent 
market  that  was  offered  to  them.  In  this  way,  the  greater  part 
of  the  holdings  were  transferred  to  the  United  States.  A  part 
of  the  sum,  amounting  to  about  $1,100,  was  placed  in  a  sack  of 
beans,  and  shipped  with  similar  freight  .in  one  of  Santleben's 
wagons. 

Upon  arriving  at  Mula,  the  officer  stationed  at  that  place 
inspected  his  freight  without  discovering  the  money,  and  every- 
thing was  thought  to  be  correct.  Santleben  was  ready  to  move 
on  when  a  second  inspection  was  made,  and,  as  the  officer  acted 
upon  newly  received  information,  the  sack  of  money  was /found. 
A  courier  was  dispatched  to  Presidio  del  Norte  with  the  in- 
formation and  the  whole  train  was  detained  until  a  squadron  of 
mounted  custom  house  guards  arrived.  Santleben  was  ar- 
rested and  held  under  indictment  for  smuggling  money  out 
of  the  country.  Santleben's  defense,  however,  was  sufficient  to 
show  that  he  was  innocent  of  any  attempt  to  defraud  the  gov- 
ernment, and  that  he  had  obviously  been  imposed  upon  by 
others  who  were  using  his  train  for  illicit  purposes.  He  was 
honorably  acquitted,  and  the  money  was  confiscated  by  the  gov- 
ernment. A  few  days  after  his  release  from  custody,  he 
crossed  the  Rio  Grande  and  passed  the  United  States  custom 
house,  after  a  satisfactory  inspection. 

He  camped  the  same  day  beyond  the  river,  and  that  night 
was  joined  by  James  Clark,  who  was  then  in  charge  of  the 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  243 

American  customs  house,  and  a  party  consisting  of  his  wife, 
two  young  ladies,  Hi  Kelly,  and  an  escort  of  six  men  on  horse- 
back. The  party  was  traveling  in  an  ambulance,  and  were  out 
on  a  pleasure  party.  Santleben  made  them  welcome  at  his  en- 
campment, and  after  supper  it  was  decided  to  have  a  dance. 
For  this  purpose  several  wagon  sheets  were  spread  on  the 
ground  inside  the  corral.  Traveling  with  Santleben  was  the 
Loza  family,  representing  several  members,  and  Prof.  Manuel 
Manso  and  his  orchestra  troupe.  The  dance  place  was  illu- 
minated by  candles  placed  on  the  wagons.  Such  occasions  con- 
stituted the  social  life  of  the  people  living  in  that  part  of  the 
country  at  that  time. 

On  one  occasion,  in  the  year  1875,  Santleben  was  returning 
from  Chihuahua  with  a  valuable  load  of  freight  and  $150,000  in 
silver  coin,  when  his  wagon  was  attacked. 

He  was  camped  near  the  Rio  Grande  crossing,  after  having 
passed  the  customs  house  inspection.  The  usual  precautions 
were  carried  out  for  the  protection  of  the  train,  and  the  cus- 
tomary guard  was  selected  to  watch  over  the  camp.  The  mules 
were  grazing  on  the  west  side  of  the  canyon,  on  the  mountain 
slopes,  under  the  watchful  care  of  the  caporal  and  his  herders, 
and  before  the  evening  shadows  closed  about  them,  the  only 
noises  that  disturbed  the  silence  of  the  wilderness  was  the 
twinkling  of  the  bell-mare. 

The  calm  that  enveloped  the  camp  was  not  broken  until 
some  time  after  Henry  Vonflie  and  his  men,  who  were  first  on 
guard,  had  retired.  Santleben,  Timps,  a  young  American,  and 
three  Mexicans  relieved  the  guard,  and  were  seated  outside  the 
corral,  near  the  two  wagons  which  were  loaded  with  money, 
when  a  shot  was  fired  near  the  wagons.  Immediately  after 
they  heard  the  tramp  of  men  running  over  the  rocks  toward  the 
camp.  They  realized  that  an  attack  was  being  made  on  the 
train  and  instant  preparations  were  made  to  meet  it.  Santle- 
ben fired  the  first  few  shots  a  few  moments  before  his  com- 
panions commenced  firing,  and  their  assailants  answered  with  a 
volley  that  brought  Vonflie  and  his  men  to  his  comrades'  assist- 
ance. The  party  was  armed  with  Winchesters,  and  many  shots 


244  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

were  fired  on  both  sides  before  Santleben  and  his  men  drove 
the  assailants  away. 

The  fight  lasted  but  a  few  minutes,  scarcely  long  enough 
for  the  wagon  master  and  his  men  to  drive  the  herds  of  mules 
into  the  corral  before  it  was  over.  They  were  kept  there,  how- 
ever, and  strict  vigilance  was  observed  until  morning,  as  a 
similar  attack  was  momentarily  expected.  But  nothing  else 
occurred. 

Early  the  next  morning  the  trail  drivers  visited  the  posi- 
tion of  their  foes,  where  the  skirmish  was  held,  with  the  expecta- 
tion of  finding  a  few  gory  corpses.  But  their  valor  was  poorly 
rewarded,  as  not  even  a  drop  of  blood  could  be  found.  Neither 
could  they  discover  whether  their  adversaries  had  suffered  the 
slightest  injury  from  Santleben's  storm  of  lead.  Nothing  was 
found  save  a  couple  of  old  hats,  a  gourd  of  water,  and  a  few 
trifles  of  little  value  as  trophies  of  their  victory. 

They  afterward  learned  that  the  attacking  party  numbered 
forty-two  cut-throats,  who  knew  that  Santleben  was  carrying 
a  large  sum  of  money.  They  had  arranged  to  attack  Santleben 
and  his  eleven  men,  approaching  the  camp  through  the  canyon, 
in  two  equal  parties,  one  from  the  east  and  one  from  the  west. 
They  had  planned  to  make  a  simultaneous  attack  on  foot,  when 
a  signal  gun  was  to  be  fired  by  a  spy,  who  was  to  enter  the  cor- 
ral secretly.  Their  plans  were  disarranged  by  the  detachment 
which  was  to  have  advanced  from  the  west.  This  was  delayed 
by  coming  in  contact  with  the  herders  guarding  the  mules 
which  had  grazed  off  in  that  direction.  Fearing  detection,  they 
used  precautions  which  prevented  them  from  making  an  assault 
on  the  west  side,  when  the  signal  shot  was  fired. 

A  few  months  later,  several  of  the  men  who  took  part  in 
the  skirmish  were  pointed  out  to  Santleben,  but  as  nothing  could 
be  proved  against  them,  it  was  not  safe  to  molest  them  during 
such  rough  times,  and  in  that  part  of  the  country. 

As  a  large  sum  of  money  was  carried  by  Santleben,  there 
was  the  possibility  of  a  second  attack  being  made  by  the  rob- 
bers ;  but,  nevertheless,  the  journey  was  continued.  The  great 
sum  of  money  placed  in  his  care  made  it  necessary  for  Santleben 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  245 

to  protect  his  customer's  interests.  Thereupon,  he  engaged  the 
services  of  Capt.  Maximo  Arranda,  with  thirty  men,  to  escort 
his  train.  General  Ord  furnished  military  escort  from  Fort 
Davis  to  Fort  Stockton. 

At  this  time  the  plains  and  valleys  traversed  by  the  head 
waters  of  the  Texas  Concho  River  and  its  tributaries,  were 
occupied  by  droves  of  buffalo,  whose  numbers  could  not  be 
computed  with  certainty.  They  seemed  to  be  innumerable, 
and  many  times  formed  into  such  masses  that  the  trains  were 
compelled  to  stop  until  they  passed. 

In  1876,  the  Galveston,  Harrisburg  and  San  Antonio  Rail- 
road was  rushing  its  track  toward  San  Antonio,  from  the  East. 
The  popular  belief  was  that  it  would  never  extend  farther  west, 
owing  to  the  fact  that  the  Indians  would  tear  up  the  track 
as  fast  as  it  was  laid.  Santleben  found  the  wholesale  merchants 
at  Chihuahua  rejoicing,  however,  at  the  prospect  of  having  a 
railroad  terminus  at  San  Antonio,  within  900  miles  of  them. 
They  thought  it  possible  to  cut  down  expenses  and  procure 
quicker  transportation  of  smaller  consignments.  Freight  and 
custom  houses  had  become  serious  burdens,  as  the  goods  had  to 
be  stored  in  warehouses  six  or  eight  months,  thus  keeping  large 
sums  of  money  lying  practically  idle. 

Santleben  made  a  proposition  to  these  merchants,  that  if 
they  would  bind  themselves  for  ten  years  to  import  72,000 
pounds  of  merchandise  monthly,  exclusive  of  heavy  machinery, 
and  export  all  their  imports  and  freight  through  him,  he  would 
start  thirty-six  small  wagons  with  five  mules  each ;  divide  these 
into  three  trains ;  load  each  wagon  with  2,000  pounds ;  and  run 
a  thirty  day  schedule,  between  San  Antonio  and  Chihuahua. 
In  his  proposition,  he  also  provided  an  insurance  clause  for 
merchants,  against  weather  and  thieves. 

Freight  rates  from  San  Antonio  to  Chihuahua  were  $90  per 
thousand,  and  from  Chihuahua  to  San  Antonio  $50  per  thousand 
on  ores,  and  $25  on  every  thousand  dollars  Mexican  money  and 
silver  bullion. 

The  merchants,  thereby,  agreed  to  this,  providing  the  con- 
tract should  become  null  in  event  the  railroad  was  completed 


246  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

to  Chihuahua  within  ten  years.    Ed  Frobboese  was  to  be  Sant- 
leben's  partner. 

Before  his  plans  were  perfected,  however,  word  reached 
Santleben,  from  Chihuahua,  that  a  railroad  was  to  be  built 
from  El  Paso  to  Chihuahua ;  and  thus  died  the  Santleben  trans- 
portation company.  And  soon,  too,  died  the  famous  Chihuahua 
Trail,  which  had  opened  up  access  for  two  countries,  ultimately 
paving  the  way  for  the  railroads  which  followed. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  247 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

One  of  the  most  interesting  products  of  the  Southwest, 
during  its  pioneer  days,  was  the  Texas  Ranger.  To  tell  all  that 
is  worth  telling  about  this  type  of  man  would  about  fill  a  good- 
sized  volume ;  and  all  this  chapter  can  hope  to  do  is  to  confine 
itself  to  the  subject  generally,  and  relate  briefly  a  few  of  the 
adventures  of  the  Texas  Ranger,  during  the  interim  of  1874 
and  1880. 

From  the  days  of  the  Lone  Star  Republic  to  the  present 
hour,  the  history  of  the  State  of  Texas  has  been  one  continuous 
struggle  against  savage  and  semi-savage  foes ;  and  it  was  neces- 
sary for  the  state>  during  this  period,  to  raise  troops  to  guard 
against  the  Indians  and  to  help  the  authorities  in  upholding  the 
law. 

Prior  to  1874,  ranger  forces  were  organized  only  for  partic- 
ular occasions.  In  this  year,  however,  a  more  permanent  or- 
ganization was  perfected.  Gov.  Richard  Coke  was  in  office 
at  that  time,  and  the  Legislature  appropriated  $300,000  to  pro- 
tect the  border  counties,  and  a  suitable  police,  under  the  con- 
trol of  the  state  and  Adjutant  General  Steele,  was  immediately 
formed. 

The  command  was  known  as  the  Frontier  Battalion  and 
consisted  of  six  companies,  of  seventy-five  men  each,  all  under 
the  command  of  Maj.  John  B.  Jones.  Each  company  was  com- 
manded by  a  captain,  two  lieutenants,  three  sergeants,  and  four 
corporals.  It  was  soon  found  that  the  appropriation  would  not 
be  sufficient  to  support  the  establishment,  and  reduction  in  force 
had  to  be  made  from  time  to  time  until  a  company  numbered 
only  thirty  men  or  fewer. 

The  purpose  for  assembling  the  rangers  was  to  operate 
against  the  Indians  who  were  becoming  daily  more  hostile,  and 
who  were  continually  making  advances.  It  became  also  neces- 


248  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

sary  to  clear  out  the  whole  country  around  the  heads  of  the 
Nueces  and  Llano  rivers,  which  had  become  headquarters  for 
all  the  desperadoes,  outlaws,  horse  and  cattle  thieves,  and 
fugitives  from  justice,  in  the  whole  Southwest,  and  from  the 
East. 

The  ranger  has  always  elicited  much  interest  and  curiosity 
among  those  who  have  not  been  acquainted  with  the  Southwest. 
It  may  be  said  of  the  old-time  ranger  that  he  was  not  so  hand- 
some as  he  might  be,  but  was  as  courageous  as  a  Numidian  lion, 
and  tougher  than  a  Mexican  burro.  His  language,  perhaps, 
could  not  pass  in  the  London  drawing  room,  but  he  could  suc- 
cessfully ride  a  bronco  and  kill  a  Mexican  horse  thief  at  five 
hundred  yards.  His  manners  may  not  have  been  exactly  Ches- 
terfieldian,  but  this  deficiency  was  more  than  offset  by  the 
aestheticism  displayed  when  he  scalped  an  Indian.  He  probably 
was  not  acquainted  with  the  tariff  question,  but  he  could  follow 
a  blind  trail  at  a  gallop  and  never  miss  the  way.  It  is  possible 
that  he  could  never  tell  the  difference  between  the  hypothesis  of 
atomic  evolution  and  a  lunar  eclipse ;  but  he  knew  a  "rustler" 
by  sight,  and  could  name  half  the  fugitives  in  Texas. 

But  underneath  his  rough  exterior  the  ranger  possessed  a 
heart  as  simple  and  guileless  as  a  little  child's,  and  a  sympathy 
that  was  instantly  touched  by  human  misery  or  woe.  Perhaps 
he  did  not  respect  the  Sabbath  with  the  same  zeal  as  by  some  of 
the  better  citizens,  as  he  cleaned  his  gun,  washed  his  shirts,  and 
repaired  his  saddle  on  that  day.  But  he  would  share  his  only 
dollar  with  a  man  in  want,  and  throw  his  last  biscuit  to  a  hungry 
dog.  His  salary  was  meagre  and  he  did  not  profess  to  love  his 
country  as  dearly  as  a  candidate  for  the  Legislature,  but  he 
would  tackle  a  bunch  of  rustlers,  nevertheless,  single-handed. 
As  a  rule,  he  never  saw  the  inside  of  a  college,  but  all  the  same 
he  was  the  advance  courier  of  civilization,  and  was  instrumental 
in  making  life  and  property  safe  in  Texas. 

Half  the  time  the  ranger  never  received  credit  for  his  good 
work,  though  he  always  was  ready  to  protect  his  country  from 
Indians  and  outlaws.  Short-sighted  Legislators  grumbled  when 
they  were  called  upon  to  pay  him  his  pittance,  and  every  year 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  249 

they  cut  down  the  appropriation.  Penurious  tax  payers  insisted 
he  was  a  useless  burden  on  the  state ;  but  all  the  time  he  was 
returning  to  them  their  stolen  horses  and  cattle,  and  bringing 
to  justice  the  man  who  had  stolen  them  on  the  highway.  East 
Texans  entertained  the  belief  that  the  frontier  was  too  far  away 
for  them  to  need  protection  during  that  time,  and  objected  to 
expense  of  maintaining  the  ranger.  The  ranger  knew,  if  no  one 
else  did,  however,  that  it  was  he  who  fixed  the  present  bound- 
aries of  the  frontier,  and  could  well  remember  when  the  blood- 
thirsty Indian  and  the  daring  highwayman  lurked  in  the  very 
shadow  of  the  State  Capitol. 

The  ranger  was  hardly  ever  out  of  his  saddle.  He  was  the 
original  and  only  "solitary  horseman"  who  scoured  the  plains 
in  search  of  redskins  since  the  dawn  of  the  first  dime  novel. 
He  might  easily  be  called  the  beau  ideal  of  Young  America's 
border  chivalry. 

The  ranger  could  ride  harder,  fight  longer,  live  rougher,  and 
make  less  talk  about  it  than  anything  else  that  walked  on  two 
feet.  He  wore  a  sombrero  and  spurs,  and  thus  accoutred,  with 
a  two-dollar  government  blanket,  he  would  defy  alike  the  rains 
of  summer,  and  the  snows  of  winter.  He  generally  died  with 
his  boots  on,  and  as  the  state  did  not  furnish  rosewood  caskets 
and  cemetery  lots  for  her  fallen  soldiers,  his  comrades  would 
wrap  him  in  an  old  blanket,  and,  thus  shrouded,  he  was  laid 
gently  in  his  grave. 

Capt.  L.  P.  Seiker  was  the  veteran  of  the  first  battalion  of 
rangers  formed.  He  joined  in  May,  1874,  and  served  without 
losing  a  day,  later  becoming  captain  of  Company  D.  His  com- 
pany killed  more  Indians  and  rustlers  than  any  other  in  the 
service. 

One  of  the  best  rangers  in  the  country  was  J.  B.  Gillett,  for- 
mer city  marshal  of  El  Paso.  Gillett  was  a  splendid  type,  little 
over  the  medium  height,  possessing  a  clear  quick-sighted  tem- 
perament that  made  him  a  continual  fear  to  a  horse- thief  and  a 
warning  against  any  Indian  in  the  country.  In  all  his  move- 
ments he  was  quick,  nervous,  and  active ;  but  not  powerful  as 
one  would  associate  power  with  the  heavy,  overgrown  bully  of 


250  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

the  prize  ring.  Yet  his  hand  was  the  hand  of  destiny  among 
the  outlaws  of  Southwestern  Texas.  He  dressed  in  good  taste, 
without  pretension.  He  possessed  the  marks  of  a  gentleman,  and 
was  genial  and  kind  to  a  degree  to  all.  As  some  one  has  said, 
he  seemed  to  have  taken  to  himself  personally  the  words  of  St. 
Paul :  "Be  all  things  to  all  men,"  in  order  to  catch  some. 

Gillett  never  took  a  drink.  He  was  heard  at  one  time  to 
answer  a  man,  who  had  invited  him  to  drink  with  him :  "No 
sir,  I  never  drink.  Men  like  myself,  who  spend  their  lives  mak- 
ing enemies  of  the  pests  of  society,  must  expect  to  be  killed 
some  time,  but  the  man  who  kills  me  will  never  be  able  to  say 
he  killed  me  drunk." 

Gillett  joined  the  service  in  June,  1875,  m  Company  D,  of 
which  Captain  Roberts  was  commander.  Those  were  lively 
times,  and  Indians  were  continually  on  the  war-path,  in  all 
parts  of  the  country.  The  Comanches  came  down  into  Texas 
from  the  Fort  Sill  reservation,  and  kept  up  continual  hostilities 
in  the  north ;  while  the  Kickapoos  and  Lipans  were  a  constant 
menace  in  the  southwestern  counties.  The  two  latter  bands 
did  not  number  a  total  of  fifty  warriors,  yet  they  kept  both  the 
rangers  and  the  national  troops  constantly  on  the  move.  The 
Apaches  were  on  the  west,  and  the  Kiowas  on  the  north  and 
the  northwest.  Most  of  these  Indians  had  come  from  the 
Santa  Rosa  Mountains,  in  Old  Mexico,  and  were  outlaws  in 
both  republics.  Their  hostilities  were  such  that  Southwest 
Texas  was  becoming  uninhabitable. 

A  ranger  knew  that  the  only  good  Indian  was  a  dead 
one,  and  they  set  about  to  rid  the  country  of  them.  Gillett Js 
company  had  three  fights  with  the  Comanches,  killing  six  In- 
dians. The  next  fight  was  with  the  Lipans,  cousins  to  the 
blood-thirsty  Mescalero  Apaches,  who  had  committed  innumer- 
able horrible  deeds  in  the  country. 

The  Lipans  had  raided  a  ranch  in  Menard  County,  killed 
three  girls  and  a  boy,  and  made  their  escape.  Capt.  D.  W. 
Roberts,  Company  D,  with  a  detachment  of  five  rangers,  in- 
cluding J.  B.  Gillett,  while  scouting  on  Saline  Creek,  ran  into 
this  band,  numbering  nine  bucks  and  a  squaw.  There  ensued  a 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  251 

short  fight  of  rifles  against  wooden  bows,  of  belted  rangers 
against  blanket-swaddled  Lipans,  and  the  five  rangers  dis- 
mounted to  claim  the  spoils  of  war. 

For  several  years  after  the  fight,  when  a  traveler  passed  by 
the  spot,  there  could  be  seen  a  skull  stuck  on  a  mesquite  limb, 
grinning  one  perpetual  ghastly  grin  at  the  passerby;  until  an 
attorney,  en  route  to  Junction  City,  took  down  the  gruesome 
relic  for  the  purpose,  as  he  stated,  of  making  a  drinking  cup 
of  it. 

J.  B.  Gillett  took  one  of  the  scalps,  and  covered  his  revolver 
holster  with  it.  Afterwards,  in  bending  over  a  frying  pan  at 
breakfast,  he  trailed  the  end  hair  in  the  gravy,  whereupon 
Lieut.  N.  O.  Reynolds  applied  a  torch  to  the  greasy  locks,  and  in 
an  instant  nothing  was  left  but  the  bald  skin. 

"Wah !"  said  a  woolly  ranger,  as  he  sniffed  the  burnt  hair, 
"you  have  spoilt  my  appetite." 

Every  company  of  rangers  had  one  or  more  fights  with  the 
Indians  during  the  first  year  of  the  existence  of  the  battalion. 
Thus,  the  ranger  system  was  a  success  from  its  inception,  and 
from  it  have  sprung  the  most  celebrated  mounted  police  in 
the  world.  In  the  first  seven  years  of  its  organization  it  had 
aided  the  regular  army  in  ridding  the  country  of  practically 
every  Indian  that  infested  the  frontier  of  Texas. 

The  rangers  were  then  called  upon  to  rid  the  state  of  cat- 
tle and  horse  thieves,  bands  of  outlaws,  train  and  bank  robbers. 

In  1876,  Major  Jones,  commandant  of  the  battalion,  con- 
ceived the  idea  of  forming  an  escort  company.  It  consisted  of 
thirty  men,  led  by  a  captain  with  sergeants  and  corporals. 

J.  B.  Gillett  was  one  of  the  rangers  selected  by  Major  Jones, 
to  become  a  member  of  the  escort  company.  Gillett  was  one 
of  the  youngest  of  the  rangers,  lacking  two  months  of  being 
twenty  years  old  at  the  time.  The  escort,  like  Napoleon's  old 
guard,  camped  around  the  major  at  night  and  marched  with 
him  by  day. 

When  fully  equipped,  the  escort  company  was  composed  of 
one  captain  and  thirty  men,  including  sergeants  and  corporals. 
Two  four-mule  wagons  hauled  the  camp  equipage,  supplies  for 


252  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

the  men,  and  forage  for  the  horses.  The  command  was  divided 
into  three  messes,  of  ten  men  each.  To  each  mess  was  assigned 
two  pack  mules  to  be  used  when  on  Indian  trails.  When  on  the 
line  of  march,  the  Major,  with  the  battalion  surgeon,  Dr.  Nich- 
olson, moved  in  front;  then  came  the  company,  marching  in 
double  file;  after  which  came  the  Major's  light  two  mule 
wagons,  and  the  four  mule  wagons  trailed  behind.  At  roll  call 
each  morning,  the  guard,  consisting  of  a  non-commissioned  offi- 
cer and  ten  men,  was  announced  for  the  fourteen  hours. 

An  advance  guard  of  two  men  preceded  the  command 
about  a  mile,  and  two  men,  known  as  flankers,  were  deployed  on 
either  side  of  the  column,  while  the  sergeant  or  corporal,  with 
the  remainder  of  the  men,  formed  the  rear  guard,  and  brought 
up  the  pack  train.  Thus  it  was  impossible  for  the  Indians  to 
take  the  command  by  surprise. 

The  flankers  were  allowed  to  hunt,  and  in  this  manner  the 
command  was  well  supplied  with  fresh  meat.  It  was  no  un- 
usual thing  to  see  buffalo  meat,  venison  and  wild  turkeys 
hanging  in  camp. 

Neither  were  the  rangers  deprived  of  some  kind  of  music — 
without  which  Sousa  has  declared  there  can  be  no  marching 
to  glory.  With  the  command  was  a  fine  violinist,  a  banjo 
picker,  and  a  guitar  player.  There  also  was  a  quartet  of  sing- 
ers, and  after  a  long  day's  march  the  musicians  would  get  out 
their  instruments,  and  by  the  dim  camp  fire  there  would  fill 
the  night  the  lilt  of  song,  music,  and  story. 

As  the  country  was  becoming  almost  as  thickly  infested 
with  desperadoes  as  it  had  been  with  Indians,  it  was  necessary 
for  the  rangers  to  work  quickly.  The  rangers  captured  the 
noted  desperado  and  murderer,  John  Wesley  Harden.  They 
broke  up  the  "Peg  Leg"  gang  of  stage  robbers,  in  Menard 
County,  and  killed  or  captured  the  "Jesse  Evans"  gang,  of 
"Lincoln  County  War"  notoriety.  Jesse  Evans  was  a  member 
of  the  notorious  "Billy  the  Kid's"  gang  for  years,  and  partici- 
pated in  all  the  battles  of  the  cowmen  in  Lincoln  County.  Of 
the  other  bands  rounded  up  by  the  rangers,  can  be  mentioned 
the  "Dick  Tutts"  gang,  of  Travis  County ;  the  "Bill  Redding" 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  253 

gang,  of  Llano  County;  the  "Taylor"  gang,  in  Lampasas 
County;  the  "King  Fisher"  gang,  in  Maverick  County;  the 
"Bone  Wilson"  gang,  in  Erath  County,  and  hundreds  of 
individual  operators. 

One  of  the  men  the  rangers  had  to  contend  with  was  Scott 
Cooley,  the  head  of  a  gang  of  desperadoes.  Cooley  himself  had 
once  been  a  ranger,  but  had  killed  a  man  while  in  the  service, 
and  had  deserted.  After  remaining  in  concealment  for  some 
time,  he  got  together  a  band  of  men  as  desperate  as  himself 
and  set  up  in  business  as  a  cattle  stealer.  His  depredations 
were  principally  among  the  Germans.  It  is  said  that  he  killed 
no  less  than  twenty  men.  Once  in  Fredericksburg,  he  killed 
a  German  deputy  sheriff,  scalped  him,  and,  with  the  gory 
trophy  in  his  hand,  paraded  the  streets.  He  would  enter  a 
saloon,  throw  down  the  scalp  and  demand  drinks  for  the  party, 
which  were  always  forthcoming.  After  remaining  in  the  town 
all  day  he  left,  and  a  party  was  raised  to  follow  him.  He  killed 
several  of  his  pursuers,  put  the  rest  to  flight,  and  rode  leisurely 
off. 

In  Socorro,  New  Mexico,  on  Christmas  Eve,  a  church  fes- 
tival was  held.  Mr.  Conklin,  editor  of  the  Sun,  was  chairman 
of  the  occasion.  Two  young  Mexicans,  named  Baca,  were 
making  themselves  too  noisy  in  the  room,  and  Conklin  ex- 
pelled them.  One  of  them,  a  man  of  about  twenty-three,  lay 
in  waiting  for  Conklin,  after  the  entertainment.  Conklin  was 
with  his  wife,  and,  while  one  of  the  Mexicans  jerked  her  away 
from  her  husband,  the  other  one  shot  the  editor  dead.  He  fell 
in  front  of  the  church  door,  and  the  whole  town  was  aroused. 
Although  everything  was  done  to  intercept  the  Mexicans,  they 
succeeded  in  getting  away. 

A  short  time  after  the  occurence,  Sergt.  J.  B.  Gillett,  of  the 
rangers,  noticed  a  Mexican,  who  was  frequenting  Ysleta  in  a 
mysterious  manner ;  whereupon,  Gillett  wrote  to  Socorro  for  a 
description  of  the  Baca  brothers.  When  he  received  the  descrip- 
tion, he  recognized  that  the  mysterious  stranger  was  one  of 
them,  and  had  him  arrested  and  delivered  over  to  the  New 
Mexico  authorities. 


254  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

But  it  happened  that  the  one  arrested  had  not  done  the 
shooting,  the  principal  man  was  yet  at  large.  After  a  while, 
Gillett  learned  that  he  was  clerking  in  a  store  at  Saragossa, 
Mexico,  a  small  town  about  fifteen  miles  south  of  Juarez.  Gil- 
lett decided  to  go  over  to  the  town  and  capture  the  murderer 
without  waiting  for  extradition  papers. 

Thereupon  he  armed  himself,  mounted  his  horse,  and  ac- 
companied by  George  Lloyd,  a  corporal  in  his  company,  crossed 
the  Rio  Grande.  Without  arousing  suspicion,  he  reached  Sara- 
gossa and  the  store.  Leaving  his  horse  in  the  shelter,  with 
Lloyd  as  guard,  Gillett,  unobserved,  rushed  into  the  store. 
Baca  was  behind  the  counter,  and,  before  he  could  make  a  move, 
the  ranger  had  him  "covered."  The  Mexican  surrendered  at 
once;  and  Gillett,  placing  his  prisoner  on  the  horse  behind 
Lloyd,  started  for  the  river. 

The  people  of  the  town  immediately  pursued  Gillett,  who 
had  four  miles  to  gain  before  reaching  the  Rio  Grande.  His 
speed  was  hampered,  owing  to  having  to  change  the  prisoner 
back  and  forth  from  his  horse  to  Lloyd's,  in  order  to  avoid 
tiring  out  their  mounts.  The  Mexicans  fired  a  few  shots,  but 
were  afraid  of  killing  Baca,  and,  therefore,  did  very  little 
shooting.  Gillett  was  afraid  of  the  Mexican  government,  and 
lost  no  time  in  getting  his  prisoner  into  New  Mexico.  The 
night  following  the  arrest,  the  prisoner  was  turned  over  to  the 
sheriff  of  Socorro  County ;  and  the  next  day  he  was  lynched  by 
the  citizens  of  the  town. 

Baca  was  the  nephew  of  the  Judge  of  the  Probate  Court  of 
El  Paso.  The  judge  became  irate,  and  went  to  Chihuahua, 
where  he  had  the  governor  of  that  state  place  a  price  upon 
Gillett's  head.  For  a  time,  he  was  valued  at  $1,500;  conse- 
quently he  stayed  on  the  American  side. 

Gillett  then  entered  into  correspondence  with  Secretary 
Blaine,  who  wrote  a  long  letter  to  Governor  Roberts,  of  Texas, 
claiming  that  the  capture  was  a  breach  of  international  comity. 
It  seemed  for  awhile  that  Gillett  would  be  turned  over  to 
Mexico,  but  the  feeling  aroused  by  the  occurrence  gradually 
died  out.  Afterwards  Gillett  stated  to  friends  that  he  regretted 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  255 

his  action,  although  it  was  one  of  those  wrongs  that  make  a 
right. 

In  the  spring  of  1880,  information  was  received  at  Austin, 
that  a  lawless  band  of  characters  were  operating  south  of  Fort 
Davis,  in  the  Chinati  Mountains,  where  there  were  no  rangers 
to  keep  guard.  Major  John  B.  Jones  ordered  Sergeant  Seiker 
to  take  four  men  and  one  Mexican  guide,  and  repair  to  the 
scene.  The  men  included  Sam  Henry,  Tom  Carson,  R.  R. 
Russell,  L.  B.  Carruthers,  Red  Bingham,  and  a  Mexican.  At 
Fort  Davis,  Sergeant  Seiker  learned  that  the  most  daring  of 
the  desperadoes  were  four  in  number,  one  of  whom  was  Jesse 
Evans,  from  New  Mexico,  a  ring  leader  of  the  notorious  "Billy 
the  Kid"  gang.  This  band  of  robbers  would  terrorize  the  citi- 
zens of  Fort  Davis,  and  would  rob  stores  in  open  daylight,  dar- 
ing anyone  to  resist  them.  A  heavy  reward  had  been  offered 
for  their  capture. 

The  rangers  learned  through  a  negro  named  Louis,  who 
occupied  a  neutral  position  between  the  two  parties,  that  the 
outlaws'  stronghold  was  in  the  Chinati  Mountains.  He  also 
told  the  desperadoes  that  the  rangers  were  after  them.  Believ- 
ing the  negro  was  wholly  on  their  side,  the  outlaws  told  him  if 
only  four  rangers  came  to  hunt  for  them,  he  need  put  himself 
in  no  trouble  to  warn  them,  but  to  keep  them  posted  in  regard 
to  a  larger  force. 

Leaving  Fort  Davis,  the  rangers  rode  southwest  about 
eighty  miles.  On  a  little  creek  in  the  Chinati  range,  while 
hunting  for  trails,  they  discovered  four  men  on  horseback  above 
them  on  the  mountainside.  As  this  corresponded  to  the  num- 
ber of  men  they  were  hunting,  Seiker  and  his  men  turned  and 
went  toward  them.  The  outlaws,  for  such  they  were,  turned 
and  fled,  but  soon  commenced  firing  upon  the  rangers,  who 
were  in  close  pursuit.  This  settled  their  identity,  and  Sergeant 
Seiker  and  his  men  put  their  horses  to  the  utmost  speed  to 
overhaul  them,  firing  as  they  rode. 

The  chase  lasted  for  two  miles,  when  the  outlaws  came  to 
a  mountain  which  was  flat  on  top,  but  on  the  opposite  side  was 
a  ledge  of  rock,  four  feet  in  height,  which  ran  around  the  cir- 


256  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

cle  of  the  mountain.  Across  its  flat  crest  raced  the  outlaws,  down 
the  ledge  to  near  the  base,  and  there  dismounted,  tied  their 
horses,  and  came  back  to  the  ledge,  where  they  took  a  position 
behind  it  to  fight  the  rangers.  When  Sergeant  Seiker  and  his 
men  arrived  at  the  mountain  and  discovered  the  position  of  the 
desperadoes,  they  went  up  near  the  crest,  dismounted,  tied 
their  horses  and  advanced  to  the  assault  on  foot.  The  Mexican 
had  been  left  behind  with  the  pack  mules.  The  rangers  deployed 
as  they  went,  but  soon  were  fired  upon,  and  a  desperate  charge 
was  made  across  the  open  ground,  in  which  Bingham  was 
killed.  His  comrades  were  charging  straight  ahead,  firing  rap- 
idly with  their  rifles,  and  did  not  notice  him  fall.  The  bullets 
flew  so  thick  along  the  rim  of  the  ledge  that  it  was  death  to  an 
outlaw  to  get  his  face  above  it. 

One  of  the  outlaws,  George  Graham,  was  not  quick  enough, 
and  while  giving  a  swift  look  over  the  ledge,  was  fired  upon  by 
Sergeant  Seiker.  For  an  instant  the  outlaw  ducked  his  head, 
then  raised  it  quickly  again.  This  time  he  received  a  bul- 
let between  the  eyes.  Finding  that  it  was  a  losing  fight,  the 
other  outlaws  begged  for  their  lives  by  throwing  down  their 
arms. 

This  all  happened  in  so  short  a  time  that  it  was  not  yet  dis- 
covered that  Bingham  was  killed.  When  it  was  found  out, 
Seiker's  men  were  wild  with  anger,  and  wanted  to  kill  the  out- 
law prisoners.  This  they  were  prevented  from  doing,  as  the 
outlaws  had  surrendered  their  arms  and  were  defenseless. 

Then  came  the  sad  duty  of  burying  a  comrade.  This  con- 
sumed several  hours'  time,  as  the  rangers  had  nothing  to  dig 
with  except  their  Bowie  knives.  After  showing  their  dead 
comrade  all  the  honor  in  their  power,  they  tied  the  prisoners 
upon  the  captured  horses,  mounted  their  own,  and  rode  rapidly 
to  Fort  Davis,  where  the  captives  were  placed  in  jail. 

The  jail  at  Fort  Davis  was  of  Mexican  model,  and  was  lit- 
tle less  than  a  dungeon.  The  main  building  was  a  square,  adobe 
structure,  with  the  rooms  in  the  center  and  doors  opening  on 
the  outside  into  the  courtyard.  The  jail  was  in  one  corner  of 
the  building,  and  blasted  out  of  the  solid  rock  to  a  proper  depth, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  257 

and  then  covered  over  the  top  by  strong  timbers  securely 
fastened.  The  egress  was  a  trap  door.  No  light  was  there. 
And  into  this  place  of  utter  darkness  the  captured  outlaws  were 
placed. 

Considering  the  disadvantage  under  which  Seiker's  rangers 
charged  across  the  open  ground  upon  the  sheltered  position  of 
the  desperate  outlaws  armed  with  the  best  repeating  guns, 
and  the  numbers  nearly  equal,  coupled  with  the  rapjdity  with 
which  they  made  themselves  masters  of  the  situation,  the  fight 
was  said  to  have  had  but  few  equals  in  any  warfare  waged  by 
the  rangers  upon  outlaws  and  Indians. 

Thus  the  Texas  rangers  have  made  it  possible  once  more 
for  the  citizens  of  Fort  Stockton  and  Fort  Davis  to  breathe 
with  ease.  They  greatly  rejoiced  at  the  changes  which  had  been 
brought  about  by  the  capture  of  some  of  the  most  deadly  out- 
laws in  the  Southwest.  Before  that,  they  had  been  afraid  to 
open  their  mouths  in  condemnation  of  the  lawless  acts  that  were 
constantly  being  perpetrated  upon  the  least  provocation.  The 
five  hundred  dollar  reward  which  they  had  offered  for  the 
apprehension  of  the  outlaws  was  cheerfully  given  to  the 
rangers. 

Such  service  as  this  was  expected  of  the  rangers  without 
any  compensation  to  them  except  their  monthly  pay,  and  it  was 
not  for  any  reward,  but  their  sense  of  duty,  that  caused  them 
to  apprehend  the  bandits  and  capture  them.  The  reward  was 
given  out  of  the  f  re«  will  of  merchants  and  stockmen,  who  were 
elated  over  the  fact  that  their  country  was  safe ;  and  the  money 
was  accepted  in  the  same  spirit,  by  the  rangers,  who  had  been 
the  means  of  rendering  the  country  safe. 

There  were  six  ranger  companies  in  all  at  the  outset  of  the 
organization,  under  the  command  of  Maj.  John  B.  Jones.  In 
1882,  the  companies  were  stationed  as  follows:  A  Company, 
Capt.  G.  W.  Baylor,  commanding,  at  El  Paso;  B  Company, 
Capt.  S.  A.  McMurray,  at  Colorado  City;  C  Company,  Capt. 
George  Arrington,  on  Red  River,  in  the  Panhandle;  D  Com- 
pany, Capt.  L.  P.  Seiker,  Uvalde;  E  Company,  Capt.  C.  L, 
Nevill,  near  Fort  Davis;  F  Company,  Capt.  T.  L.  Ogelsby, 


258  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Oaka,  on  the  Neuces.  Three  of  the  companies,  A,  C  and  E, 
were  in  the  Indian  country,  where  they  were  continually  bat- 
tling with  the  hostile  redskins.  The  other  three  companies  were 
on  special  duty — B  Company  was  protecting  the  Texas  and 
Pacific  Railroad  from  train  robbers,  a  squad  of  men  riding  on 
every  train;  D  Company  was  protecting,  in  like  manner,  the 
Galveston,  Harrisburg  and  San  Antonio  Railway  extension; 
and  F  Company  did  fugitive  work. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  ranger  organization,  Capt.  Neal 
Coldwell,  formerly  referred  to  in  another  chapter,  who  was 
born  in  Bade  County,  Missouri,  in  May,  1844,  was  appointed 
captain  of  Company  F,  with  Pat  Dolan — later  a  ranger  captain 
— as  first  lieutenant,  F.  C.  Nelson  as  second,  and  with  seventy- 
five  enlisted  men.  Later,  it  became  necessary  to  reduce  the 
ranger  force,  and  Captain  Coldwell's  company  was  cut  down  to 
forty  men,  with  the  three  lieutenants  eliminated.  Afterwards 
Major  Jones  allowed  one  lieutenant,  however,  and  W.  K. 
Jones,  later  judge  of  Val  Verde  County,  was  appointed.  He 
was  brother  of  the  ranger  captain,  Frank  Jones,  who  was 
killed  in  El  Paso  County. 

It  is  impossible  to  give  even  a  synopsis  of  the  innumerable 
deeds  of  daring  performed  by  the  rangers,  since  the  organiza- 
tion of  the  frontier  battalion.  If  the  history  of  the  service  is 
ever  written  it  will  be  a  good-sized  volume.  The  compensa- 
tion for  their  brave  work  was  not  what  could  be  termed  hand- 
some. Until  1879,  privates  received  $40.00  per  month;  cor- 
porals, $40.00;  sergeants,  $50.00;  lieutenants,  $75.00;  and  cap- 
tains, $100.00.  This  was  exclusive  of  subsistence  for  them- 
selves and  forage  for  their  horses.  The  men  had  to  furnish 
their  own  arms,  ammunition,  horses,  and  clothing.  A  little 
later  the  pay  of  a  private  was  reduced  to  $30.00  a  month,  and 
that  of  corporals  to  $35.00.  Eastern  Texas,  which  contained 
the  bulk  of  the  population  of  the  state,  needed  no  ranger  pro- 
tection and  the  members  of  the  Legislature  from  that  section 
were  always  opposed  to  the  service,  and  were  ready  to  advocate 
its  disbandment.  In  1876,  the  Legislature  appropriated  $300,- 
ooo  for  the  frontier  protection.  In  1878,  it  appropriated  $180,- 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  259 

ooo,  and  in  1880,  $140,000.  Each  of  these  appropriations  went 
to  pay  the  expense  of  maintaining  the  service  for  two  years. 

So  much  good  did  the  ranger  service  do  on  the  frontier,  in 
ridding  the  state  of  predatory  bands  of  Indians,  that  Congress- 
man Upson,  from  the  Bexar  District,  successfully  introduced  a 
bill  in  Congress  to  refund  the  State  of  Texas  out  of  the  Na- 
tional treasury,  the  sum  of  $1,000,000,  which  was  expended  in 
fitting  out  the  ranger  expeditions  against  the  Indians  and 
bandits. 

The  ranger  commands  of  revolutionists  struggling  for  the 
freedom  of  Texas  were  composed  of  those  heroic  spirits  who 
made  a  choice  between  liberty  or  death,  and  Mexican  thraldom. 
They  valiantly  accepted  the  former  alternative  and  achieved 
liberty ;  but  many  met  death  in  a  horrible  form,  bravely  facing 
the  foe,  as  did  Crockett  and  his  courageous  band  in  the  Alamo. 
The  rangers  made  for  themselves  an  undying  record  for  heroism 
and  courage.  No  better  troops  ever  faced  an  enemy.  Follow- 
ing the  Civil  War,  the  great  natural  resources  of  the  Southwest 
began  to  attract  the  attention  of  immigrants,  and  capital  sought 
investment  in  the  Lone  Star  State,  and  the  legislative  power  of 
the  state  wisely  encouraged  both.  Eastern  Texas,  rich  in 
timbered  and  farming  lands,  was  soon  thickly  settled  by  the 
eager  horde  of  restless  fortune-seekers,  and  the  advance  guard 
pushed  west  to  the  great  plains.  Little  settlements  and  isolated 
ranches  sprang  up  along  the  river  and  creek  bottoms,  and  in 
the  fertile  canyons  wherever  water  could  be  found. 

These  pioneers  had  one  great  enemy  to  contend  against,  an 
enemy,  pitiless,  bloodthirsty,  and  cunning.  Not  the  poor  In- 
dian of  poetry  and  of  romance,  but  the  greasy  savage  of  the 
plains,  the  Indian  of  real  life.  And  it  was  the  ranger  who 
exterminated  this  enemy,  and  made  the  Southwest  safe  for  its 
pioneers. 

But  in  recounting  his  own  deeds,  the  ranger  was  invariably 
modest.  He  never  talked  unless  pressed  to  do  so.  However, 
about  the  campfire,  in  the  midst  of  his  companions,  he  would 
brush  up  his  recollection  of  perilous  adventures  and  reckless 
daring.  The  service  had  a  fascination  for  him  which  he  found 


260  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

difficult  to  overcome,  and  it  was  said  that  once  a  ranger  always 
a  ranger — at  heart. 

Is  it  any  wonder  that  he  was  thus  reckless,  or  that  the  stock 
of  his  carbine  was  so  notched  with  the  tally  of  his  dead?  Some- 
times they  were  literally  born  in  the  service.  As  an  illustration, 
one  of  the  famous  rangers,  during  the  period  which  we  have 
been  reviewing,  inherited  his  fondness  for  the  service  from  his 
father  and  grandfather.  The  latter  was  a  ranger  when  Texas 
was  a  Mexican  province,  and  died  beside  Crockett  in  the  Alamo. 
His  father  sprang  to  the  defense  of  the  Stars  and  Bars,  at  the 
head  of  a  company  of  "rough-riders,"  and  the  morning  sun 
kissed  his  dead  face,  upturned  to  the.  sky  on  Chickamauga's 
field. 

Living  in  the  midst  of  danger,  it  was  not  long,  however,  for 
any  man,  even  though  he  did  not  inherit  the  qualities  of  a 
ranger,  to  become  the  hero  of  daring  adventures.  The  deeds 
of  bravery  of  rangers  were  of  such  countless  numbers  that  his- 
tory will  fail  to  know  even  the  most  prominent.  Conscientiously 
doing  his  duty  and  daring  all  danger,  he  broke  the  way  for  the 
onward  march  of  civilization,  which  continually  rolled  toward 
the  land  of  the  setting  sun.  When  the  deadly  arrow  of  the 
redman  or  the  equally  deadly  bullet  of  the  outlaw  put  out  the 
light  of  his  brave,  young  life,  his  comrades  raised  the  lifeless 
body  with  tender  hands,  and — 

On  the  rocky  banks  of  the  Pecos  - 
They  will  lay  him  down  to  rest, 

With  his  knapsack  for  a  pillow, 
And  his  gun  across  his  breast. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  261 


CHAPTER  XIX 

In  April,  1879,  Victorio  fled  from  the  Mescalero  Apache 
reservation,  near  Fort  Stanton,  New  Mexico,  and  with  thirty 
braves  took  the  war  path  in  a  campaign  against  the  settlers  in 
the  Big  Bend  and  against  the  Mexicans  in  Northern  Chihuahua. 

The  cause  of  this  outbreak  was  directly  traceable  to  Vic- 
torio's  stubbornness  and  rebellion  in  being  removed  from  one 
reservation  to  another.  First,  the  Chiricahua  Apaches,  of 
whom  he  was  chief,  were  removed  from  the  Ojo  Caliente  reser- 
vation, to  the  San  Carlos  Mescalero  Apache  reservation  against 
their  wishes.  Victorio  had  twice  fled  from  this  reservation, 
and  both  times  was  driven  back  by  troops.  After  escaping 
from  the  Fort  Stanton  reservation,  he  was  joined  by  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  kinsman  warriors,  from  the  Ojo  Caliente  res- 
ervation. 

Troops  were  at  once  sent  against  them,  and  they  were  forced 
to  flee  into  Mexico,  swinging  around  south  of  El  Paso  and 
crossing  into  Texas  about  forty  miles  below  Fort  Quitman. 

At  this  juncture,  Troop  A,  loth  Cavalry,  commanded  by 
Captain  Nicholas  Nolan,  which  had  been  stationed  success- 
ively at  Eagle  Springs,  Van  Horn  Wells,  Fort  Quitman,  Fort 
Elliot,  and  Fort  Davis,  was  ordered  into  the  field  against  the 
Victorio  band.  Other  troops,  in  the  meantime,  were  being 
mustered  into  service  to  go  to  their  assistance. 

Colonel  George  W.  Baylor,  commanding  the  Texas  Rang- 
ers, drove  the  Indians  back  into  Mexico,  after  which  Victorio 
returned  to  New  Mexico,  where  he  found  Lieutenant  Colonel 
N.  A.  M.  Dudley,  with  a  battalion  of  the  Qth  Cavalry,  waiting 
for  him  near  the  border. 

The  Texans  were  congratulating  themselves  that  they  were 
rid  of  the  Indians  for  a  while,  when  late  one  afternoon  the  Fort 
Davis-El  Paso  stage  coach  drove  into  Fort  Quitman  with  the 
driver  and  a  dead  passenger,  General  Byrne.  It  was  then 


262  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

learned  that  Victorio,  baffled  upon  meeting  Colonel  Dudley's 
battalion,  had  turned  again  into  Texas  to  resume  his  hostilities 
there. 

Colonel  Grierson  was  stationed  at  Eagle  Springs  with  a  con- 
siderable force  of  cavalry.  A  stage  arriving  from  Fort  Davis 
had  reported  the  wires  cut  and  poles  chopped  down,  indicating 
that  the  bulk  of  the  Indians  had  crossed  the  road  there.  Col- 
onel Grierson,  with  his  full  command,  was  sent  to  meet  the 
Indians,  leaving  only  a  small  troop  to  guard  Eagle  Springs.  It 
was  further  reported  that  the  Indians  were  going  west,  and 
the  nearest  water  was  at  Fresno  Springs,  in  the  direction  they 
were  headed.  Colonel  Grierson  decided  to  beat  them  to  the 
springs.  To  accomplish  this,  he  took  a  short  cut,  rather  than 
follow  the  Indians'  trail. 

After  a  hard  ride,  the  command  reached  Fresno  Springs 
about  midnight,  and  surrounded  the  springs  on  all  sides.  In 
this  position,  without  supper  or  breakfast,  they  then  quietly 
waited.  The  next  morning  about  eleven  o'clock,  the  Indians 
were  sighted  coming  into  the  trap  set  by  Colonel  Grierson. 
Unfortunately,  just  before  they  reached  the  trap,  a  wagon 
train  came  in  sight.  Simultaneously  with  the  troops,  the  In- 
dians saw  it,  and  proceeded  to  attack.  And  the  command  was 
compelled  to  go  to  the  assistance  of  the  train,  thus  giving  the 
Indians  time  to  retrace  their  steps  into  Mexico. 

Colonel  Grierson  decided  to  make  another  effort  to  head 
Victorio  off,  by  reaching  the  Rio  Grande  before  the  Indians 
could  recross.  The  command  had  dinner,  and  then  took  up  the 
march,  riding  until  dark.  After  supper,  Colonel  Grierson  or- 
dered Lieutenant  Flipper  and  a  detachment  to  proceed  in  a 
southerly  direction  nearly  at  right  angles  to  the  route  the 
command  had  been  following,  in  an  effort  to  cut  the  trail  of  the 
Indians.  It  was  supposed  at  first  that  they  had  doubled  back 
over  their  trail  of  the  day  before,  but  scouts  had  been  unable 
to  find  any  trace  of  them. 

Lieutenant  Flipper  had  marched  scarcely  two  miles  before 
fresh  signs  revealed  the  fact  that  the  Indians  had  but  recently 
passed.  A  courier  notified  Colonel  Grierson,  and  he  also  swung 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  263 

into  the  trail  and  followed  so  closely  upon  the  heels  of  the 
Indians  that  they  were  seen  on  the  other  side  of  the  river.  There 
was  nothing  to  do  but  wait  until  the  Indians  attempted  another 
attack.  Troop  A  returned  to  its  station  at  Fort  Quitman,  and 
the  other  troops  were  placed  in  advantageous  positions,  while 
a  picket  under  Lieutenant  Charles  G.  Ayers  was  placed  at  Ojo 
Caliente,  some  forty  miles  below  Fort  Quitman,  to  watch  the 
river.  The  Indians  presumably  had  decided  to  wait  awhile 
before  resuming  their  hostilities.  • 

Their  next  attack, was  upon  a  little  band  of  brave  Mexicans, 
which  resulted  in  a  horrible  massacre.  In  November,  1879, 
Victorio,  finding  that  New  Mexico  was  growing  too  warm  on 
account  of  the  United  States  soldiers  and  cowboys,  came  down 
into  Mexico  to  take  a  rest.  At  that  time  the  United  States  had 
no  agreement  with  Mexico  allowing  troops  to  cross  the  bound- 
ary between  the  two  republics  in  pursuit  of  hostile  Indians. 
Thus  all  the  blood-thirsty  thieving  Apaches  had  to  do,  when 
the  United  States  soldiers  pursued  them,  was  to  cross  into 
Mexico.  When  the  Mexicans  pursued  them,  they  fled  into 
Texas,  New  Mexico,  or  Arizona,  keeping  up  a  continual  will  o* 
the  wisp  flight.  This  was  a  most  unfortunate  state  of  affairs, 
for  some  of  the  best  and  bravest  men  lost  their  lives  before  an 
agreement  was  reached  allowing  the  troops  of  either  country 
to  cross  the  boundary  at  will. 

Victorio  knew  every  foot  of  the  country,  where  to  find 
wood,  water,  grass,  and  game.  So  he  took  his  time  and  came 
from  New  Mexico  down  into  Chihuahua,  stopping  first  at  the 
Santa  Maria,  a  stream  which  furnished  plenty  of  water  and 
grass.  There  he  took  refuge  in  the  rough  mountains  south  of 
Lake  Hueco  to  ward  off  an  attack  from  the  Mexicans.  But 
as  the  country  thereabouts  was  thinly  settled  at  that  time,  there 
was  little  fear  of  danger. 

Gradually  he  moved  his  warriors  down  to  the  Candelaria 
Mountains,  to  procure  new  range  and  to  be  nearer  to  the  settle- 
ment of  San  Jose,  owned  by  Don  Marino  Samaniego.  Also,  he 
could  watch  the  public  road  between  the  City  of  Chihuahua  and 
El  Paso  del  Norte,  the  present  Juarez. 


264  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

It  was  here  that  one  of  the  saddest  and  most  frightful  mas- 
sacres of  the  early  days  was  perpetrated.  Victorio  was  at  the 
large  tank,  or  reservoir,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Candelaria 
Mountains,  where  he  had  fine  range  for  his  stock,  with  plenty  of 
wood  and  game.  Located  among  the  almost  inaccessible  moun- 
tains, for  twenty  or  thirty  miles  in  any  direction  he  had  every- 
thing in  plain  view  and  could  see  every  movement  made  by 
travelers  or  bodies  of  men. 

A  report  had  been  sent  to  the  neighboring  Mexicans  that 
the  Indians  were  near ;  and  a  company  of  the  principal  Mexi- 
cans of  Carrizal,  fifteen  in  number,  under  the  command  of 
Don  Jose  Rodriguez,  left  to  locate  the  enemy. 

The  band  of  Mexicans  proceeded  to  the  north  side  of  the 
Candelaria  Mountains  and  struck  the  trail  of  Victorious  band 
on  an  old  beaten  route  which  passed  from  the  Santa  Maria 
River  to  the  big  tank  on  the  northern  slope  of  the  mountains. 
The  trail  led  up  a  canyon,  passed  between  two  rocky  peaks, 
down  the  side  of  the  hills  to  the  plain,  thence  to  the  big  tank. 
Old  Victorio,  who  was  a  natural  soldier,  knew  that  the  Mexi- 
cans would  never  come  up  on  the  Candelaria  Mountains  after 
seeing  the  size  of  his  trail  From  his  position  on  the  tall  peaks 
he  had  seen  the  little  body  of  men  long  before  they  struck  his 
trail,  and  had  sent  forty  or  fifty  of  his  warriors  down  to  form 
an  ambuscade  where  the  trail  crossed  the  crest  between  the 
two  peaks.  He  perhaps  was  with  the  men  himself,  as  the  at- 
tack was  most  skillfully  planned  and  executed.  The  Indians 
hid  in  the  rocks  on  the  north  side  of  the  trail  where  there  were 
a  few  big  boulders,  and  when  the  Mexicans  got  between  them, 
the  Indians  fired  a  volley.  Naturally,  the  Mexicans  made  for 
the  cover  of  the  rocks  on  the  south. 

The  Mexicans  passed  into  the  fearful  death  trap  laid  for 
them,  and  there  was  no  hope  of  escape  or  rescue.  One  of  the 
Mexicans  had  made  his  way  into  a  crevice,  and  from  nis  posi- 
tion could  have  shot  any  one  coming  at  him  from  east  or  west. 
He  was  hidden  to  one  group  of  Indians,  but  his  legs  were  ex- 
posed to  another  group,  who  literally  shot  them  off,  up  to  the 
knees.  The  horses,  in  their  struggles  after  being  shot,  had 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  265 

rolled  down  the  deep  canyon  on  the  east,  breaking  their  lariats, 
and  not  stopping  until  they  had  reached  the  bottom  of  what 
was  called  later  the  Canada  del  Muerte  (canyon  of  death). 
This  massacre  occurred  on  the  seventh  day  of  November,  1879. 

When  the  company  did  not  return,  there  was  great  sorrow 
and  alarm  at  Carrizal,  for  it  was  supposed  that  only  a  small 
band  of  Indians,  bent  primarily  on  horse  stealing,  was  hiding 
in  the  Candelarias.  So  another  company  of  fourteen  men 
volunteered  to  go  and  see  what  had  become  of  their  friends 
and  kindred. 

When  this  second  band  failed  to  return,  the  citizens  of  Car- 
rizal petitioned  Paso  del  Norte  for  assistance,  and  George  W. 
Baylor  proffered  the  services  of  his  company  of  rangers.  Soon 
one  hundred  and  ten  mounted,  well  armed  men  were  on  the 
trail  leading  to  Canada  del  Muerte. 

Colonel  Baylor  was  selected  by  Senor  Ramos  to  command 
the  entire  force,  on  account  of  his  experience  as  a  soldier,  and 
as  a  compliment  to  the  rangers.  Baylor  did  not  accept,  how- 
ever, giving  as  his  reason  that  the  campaign  was  on  Mexican 
soil,  and  to  rescue  or  bury  Mexicans,  it  would  be  proper  to  ap- 
point one  of  their  own  men,  under  whom  the  rangers  would 
be  glad  to  serve.  Thereupon  Don  Francisco  Escajeda,  of  Gua- 
dalupa,  was  chosen  as  commander  in  chief,  and  Baylor  made 
second  in  command. 

The  command  rode  out  on  the  sand  road  beyond  Samala- 
yucca  and  sent  spies  ahead  to  locate  the  Apaches,  if  possible. 
Before  they  reached  the  Candelarias,  they  halted  behind  some 
mountains  to  await  the  report  of  the  spies.  They  could  learn 
nothing,  however,  and  returned  without  any  special  discov- 
eries. It  was  bitter  cold  night,  and  a  few  of  the  party  made 
fires  in  the  deep  arroyos.  But  they  could  not  linger  around  the 
blaze,  as  every  minute  counted. 

Moving  on  towards  the  mountains  north  of  the  Candelarias, 
they  reached  there  early  the  next  morning,  and  there  found  a 
large  fresh  trail,  two  days  pld,  going  in  the  direction  of  Lake 
Santa  Maria.  For  fear  of  some  trick,  the  command  divided, 
some  taking  the  crest,  south  of  the  trail  where  the  massacre 


266  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

took  place,  and  the  others  going  to  the  right.  It  was  soon  evi- 
dent, however,  that  the  entire  band  of  Indians  had  left,  and 
nothing  remained  for  Escajeda  and  Baylor  to  do  but  the  sad 
duty  of  collecting  the  bodies  of  the  massacred  Mexicans  for 
burial. 

The  dead  bodies  were  scattered  about,  none  very  far  from 
where  the  attack  had  commenced.  It  was  evident  that  the  last 
party  had  found  the  bodies  of  their  kinsmen  and  had  collected 
and  placed  them  in  a  big  crevice  in  the  rocks.  But  just  as  they 
had  begun  to  cover  the  bodies  with  loose  stones,  the  Indians, 
who  were  stealthily  watching  them  all  the  time,  opened  fire 
on  the  Mexicans  and  exterminated  the  entire  party. 

It  was  a  sad  scene  when  a  Mexican  in  the  third  scouting 
party  made  the  discovery  of  a  dead  brother  or  kinsman.  There 
was  not  a  dry  eye  among  either  Mexicans  or  Texans,  and  for 
one  time  a  bond  of  friendship,  created  by  sympathy,  was 
linked  between  the  two  races. 

The  bodies  having  all  been  recovered  except  two,  they  were 
buried  in  the  crevice  of  the  mountains  where  the  massacre 
occurred.  All  were  in  perfect  state  of  preservation,  owing  to 
the  pure  cold  air  of  the  mountain.  These  men  had  lain  on  the 
ground  for  nearly  two  weeks,  and  not  a  sign  of  decomposition 
had  taken  place.  Neither  had  wild  animals  nor  birds  of  prey 
touched  the  bodies,  and  it  is  said  to  be  a  strange  fact  that  no 
wild  animal  or  bird  of  prey  will  ever  touch  the  body  of  a  Mexi- 
can. If  they  had  been  Indians,  negroes,  or  whites,  the  coyotes, 
buzzards,  and  carrion  crows  would  have  eaten  them  the  first 
day  and  night. 

On  the  5th  day  of  October,  1879,  Colonel  George  W.  Baylor 
received  a  note  from  Captain  Gregorio  Garcia,  of  San  Elizario, 
stating  that  fifteen  Apache  Indians  had  been  seen  by  some 
Mexicans  who  were  cutting  hay  fourteen  or  fifteen  miles  back 
of  La  Quadrilla,  for  the  stage  company.  The  Indians  had  at- 
tacked the  men,  five  in  number,  and  it  was  thought  that  all  but 
one  had  been  killed. 

Colonel  Baylor  with  his  command  left  at  midnight;  and 
after  a  hasty  breakfast  on  the  river,  five  miles  below  Qua- 


„  o 
1° 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  267 

drilla,  started  with  a  guide  to  the  point  where  they  suspected 
the  Indians  had  gone. 

Going  in  a  southerly  direction  in  single  file  from  Las  Cornu- 
vas,  they  crossed  the  Rio  Grande,  opposite  Guadalupe.  Colonel 
Baylor  had  no  hesitation  in  crossing  the  river,  as  he  hoped  to 
find  the  Indians  within  a  short  space.  His  calculations  were 
not  correct,  however,  for  the  Indians  had  just  passed  the  edge 
of  the  trail  which  Baylor  was  taking,  and  had  made  straight 
for  the  nearest  town  where  they  had  killed  a  mare. 

Colonel  Baylor  halted  and  sent  word  by  Captain  Garcia  and 
Martin  Alarcan,  to  the  President  of  Guadalupe,  as  to  their 
movements.  Taking  advantage  of  the  halt,  the  rangers  took 
their  dinner,  and  gave  the  animals  a  chance  to  rest. 

Upon  his  return,  Captain  Garcia  reported  that  the  Presi- 
dent was  not  only  very  much  pleased  that  they  had  crossed  but 
would  join  the  rangers  with  all  the  men  he  could  muster.  About 
this  time,  a  courier  from  Don  Romana  Arranda's  ranch  brought 
word  that  the  Indians  had  killed  the  herder  of  the  ranch,  and 
had  taken  six  mules  of  the  stage  company  and  five  of  the  ranch 
horses. 

The  command  immediately  started  for  the  ranch,  which  they 
reached  at  sunset,  after  traveling  seventy-eight  miles  since 
eleven  o'clock  the  night  before.  They  were  joined  at  the  ranch 
by  a  party  of  Mexicans,  under  command  of  Captain  Francisco 
Escajeda.  The  Mexican  party  numbered  twenty-three  men; 
Arranda  and  his  son  also  joined  the  party,  and  Colonel  Baylor 
then  took  the  road  to  Lucero*  The  Mexican  allies  had  discov- 
ered the  trail,  which  led  off  south  along  the  pass  of  the  Arma- 
gora  Mountains,  in  the  Sierras  Ventanos ;  and  at  eleven  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  they  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Canyon  Mar- 
ranas,  an  ugly  hole  cut  in  the  mountains,  looking  grim  and 
defiant  enough  without  the  aid  of  the  Apache  warriors. 

Obviously,  the  Indians  had  laid  a  trap  for  the  command; 
and,  dismounting,  Colonel  Baylor  left  fifteen  of  his  men  in 
the  joint  company  to  guard,  began  to  scale  the  mountains  on 
the  south  side  of  the  canyon.  As  soon  as  the  Indians  discovered 
they  did  not  intend  to  enter  the  mouth  of  the  canyon  where 


268  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

they  had  posted  themselves  in  the  high  cliffs  on  either  side, 
they  opened  fire  on  Baylor,  his  men,  and  horses,  that  were 
unfortunately  in  an  open  plain  and  in  good  range. 

The  Mexican  allies  soon  got  possession  of  a  high  rocky 
point  in  full  view  of  the  Indian  camp  and  horses,  which  they 
kept  hot  with  bullets.  The  Indians  in  turn  kept  up  a  steady  fire, 
and  were  evidently  armed  with  heavy  rifled  needle  guns.  Al- 
though some  of  the  enemy  were  six  hundred  yards  off,  the 
accuracy  of  their  fire  was  such  that  by  the  time  the  smoke 
arose  from  the  gun,  a  bullet  would  strike  just  below  the  crest 
of  the  mountain,  and  whiz  over  the  heads  of  the  Americans  and 
Mexicans. 

Having  left  two  of  his  men  with  his  horses,  and  taking  only 
eight  with  him,  as  the  Mexicans  had  gone  to  the  left,  Colonel 
Baylor  advanced  along  the  slope  of  the  mountain  in  the  rear  of 
where  the  Indians  were  in  the  rocks.  The  first  shot  on  his  small 
party  was  one  from  an  Indian  not  more  than  twenty-five  yards 
distant.  Sergeant  J.  B.  Gillett  returned  the  fire,  and  undoubt- 
edly mortally  wounded  the  Indian,  as  he  did  not  appear  again, 
and  was  heard  groaning  for  hours.  The  Indian  had  fired  two 
shots  at  Gillett,  one  knocking  the  palmetto  in  his  face  and  the 
other  cutting  the  rim  of  his  hat. 

The  Indians  then  began  firing  on  the  party  in  full  force, 
but  as  Baylor  had  instructed  his  men  not  to  fire  unless  they 
saw  an  Indian,  they  did  nothing  but  watch  the  flash  of  their 
guns  as  the  smoke  came  from  the  pile  of  rocks.  As  Baylor 
and  his  men  were  protected  mainly  by  Spanish  dagger  plants, 
they  fell  back  fifty  yards  to  good  rocks,  so  as  to  be  on  equal 
footing  with  the  Indians.  The  enemy,  however,  did  not  show 
themselves  again,  but  left  the  ground  and  fell  back  six  hun- 
dred yards,  to  their  horses. 

Baylor  then  joined  the  Mexican  allies,  and  kept  up  a  fire 
until  sunset ;  but  after  finding  that  they  could  not  dislodge  the 
enemy,  the  allies  ceased  firing,  after  having  killed  only  three 
Indians,  and  crippled  several. 

Thereupon  Colonel  Baylor  and  his  men  returned  to  their 
horses,  the  Indians  still  firing  upon  them.  It  would  have  been 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  269 

possible  to  have  charged  against  the  enemy,  but  the  men  and 
horses  were  tired  and  thirsty,  and  Colonel  Baylor  turned  to- 
ward the  Arranda  ranch,  where  his  men  and  animals  were 
refreshed  with  food,  water,  and  rest. 

Following  this  incident,  Captain  Coldwell  was  ordered  by 
General  Jones  to  Ysleta  to  inspect  the  company  of  Captain  Bay- 
lor. Nothing  of  particular  interest  occurred  on  the  trip  to 
Ysleta,  and  after  spending  several  days  there  attending  to  busi- 
ness, Coldwell  started  on  the  return  trip  to  Fort  Davis. 

At  Fort  Quitman,  news  was  received  that  the  Mexican 
forces  had  fought  Victorio  and  his  band,  making  a  stand-off 
affair,  and  had  gone  back  to  Chihuahua;  also  that  after  the 
fight,  Victoria  had  crossed  the  Rio  Grande,  and  was  then  in 
Texas. 

With  Victorio  near,  Captain  Coldwell  knew  that  the  trip 
back  to  Fort  Davis  was  fraught  with  grave  danger.  With  him 
in  the  mail  jerky  was  one  negro  soldier,  a  boy  named  Graham 
on  his  way  to  Fort  Davis  to  act  as  hostler,  and  the  driver.  It 
was  thought  that  the  Indians  might  attempt  an  attack  in  Quit- 
man Canyon. 

They  expected  to  meet  the  buckboard,  another  vehicle  used 
on  the  mail  route,  at  the  Eighteen-mile  Water-hole,  where  a 
short  halt  was  to  be  made  to  get  water.  About  evening,  five 
men  were  seen  on  large  horses,  who  at  a  distance  had  the  ap- 
pearance of  United  States  soldiers,  on  account  of  the  horses. 
One  approached  within  a  short  distance  of  the  jerky  and  went 
back.  Coldwell  felt  relieved,  thinking  that  the  country  was 
being  well  patrolled  by  the  regular  troops. 

About  dusk  the  waterhole  was  reached,  but  Baker,  the  driver 
of  the  buckboard,  and  his  vehicle  were  not  there.  This  natu- 
rally caused  some  uneasiness.  Captain  Coldwell  stated  that 
they  would  continue  their  journey,  and  thereupon  alighted  to 
fill  a  vessel  with  water  from  the  spring. 

One  startling  fact,  which  the  captain  and  his  party  were 
not  cognizant  of,  was  that  on  this  very  day  a  battle  had  been 
fought  with  Victorio's  band  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  this 
waterhole,  in  a  little  canyon  just  back  of  it.  A  squad  of  the 


270  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

loth  Cavalry  had  been  routed  by  the  Indians,  with  the  loss 
of  five  or  six  men  and  horses. 

The  dead  horses  were  lying  almost  in  view  of  the  road,  and 
what  had  been  taken  for  American  soldiers  had  been  Victorio's 
scouts,  mounted  on  the  United  States  cavalry  horses,  which 
they  had  captured.  It  had  been  agreed  by  the  party  in  the  hack 
that  if  the  Indians  came  upon  them  that  the  driver  would  give 
his  gun  to  the  Graham  boy,  and  let  the  team  run  in  the  road. 
Captain  Coldwell  and  the  negro  soldier  were  to  fight  the  In- 
dians as  they  rode,  unless  a  mule  was  killed ;  and,  in  such  an 
event,  the  four  were  to  stand  and  fight  to  the  best  advantage. 

Had  they  known  what  was  ahead,  the  situation  would  have 
seemed  desperate.  Also  the  non-appearance  of  Baker  with  the 
buckboard  was  ominous.  After  leaving  the  waterhole,  the 
mules  went  at  a  lively  rate  for  three  miles,  and  then  shied  at 
something  by  the  road.  It  was  the  buckboard  with  one  mule 
dead,  and  the  other  gone.  Beside  it  lay  two  men,  dead,  the 
driver,  Baker,  and  a  passenger.  They  evidently  had  been  killed 
about  sundown,  as  they  should  have  been  at  the  waterhole  at 
the  time  the  other  vehicle  was  there.  No  doubt  they  ran  and 
fought  the  Indians  until  one  mule  was  killed,  and  then  died  be- 
side the  buckboard. 

Very  little  time  was  taken  by  Captain  Coldwell  and  his 
party  to  look  around,  as  the  situation  was  grewsomely  appalling. 
The  driver  slowed  down  his  team.  The  captain  sat  with  his 
rifle  in  hand,  admonishing  the  men  to  keep  cool,  and  have 
their  guns  in  readiness.  Close  watch  was  kept  on  both  sides 
of  the  road.  Fortune  favored  them,  however,  and  they  ar- 
rived safely  at  Eagle  Springs. 

In  November,  1880,  Colonel  Baylor  and  twenty  Texas 
rangers  joined  Colonel  Juaquin  Terrazas,  in  running  down 
Victorio.  After  recrossing  into  Mexico,  the  old  chief  sent 
his  younger  braves  on  an  expedition,  while  he  remained  in 
camp  with  his  older  warriors,  women,  and  children.  As  a 
camping  place,  he  had  chosen  the  mountains  of  Tres  Castillos, 
in  Northern  Chihuahua. 

In  the  meantime,  while  Colonel  Grierson,  with  his  command 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  271 

of  United  States  regulars,  were  chasing  the  younger  warriors, 
the  Mexican  authorities  had  sent  Colonel  Terrazas,  command- 
ing a  thousand  Mexican  regulars,  to  join  forces  with  Lieu- 
tenant Parker,  commanding  sixty-eight  Chiricahua  scouts,  Lieu- 
tenant Manney,  with  a  detachment  of  twenty  negro  troopers, 
and  Colonel  Baylor,  commanding  twenty  Texas  rangers. 

After  following  the  trail  of  Victorio  for  several  days,  the 
pursuers  succeeded  in  locating  him  in  the  Tres  Castillos.  But 
the  Mexicans  became  uneasy  and  refused  to  go  farther,  until 
the  American  commands  should  turn  back.  In  explanation, 
they  said  that  the  Chiricahua  scouts  were  relatives  of  Victorio, 
and  would  prove  treacherous. 

Although  anxious  to  participate  in  the  extermination  of  the 
renegade  Apaches,  the  Americans  were  forced  to  turn  back 
upon  the  announcement  made  by  Colonel  Terrazas  that  he  had 
orders  not  to  allow  the  American  troops  to  remain  upon  Mexi- 
can soil. 

Twenty-four  hours  later  a  messenger  carried  word  to  the 
retiring  Americans  that  Terrazas  had  fought  and  defeated 
Victorio. 

Victorio  was  killed  by  a  Tarahumar  Indian,  by  name  Mau- 
ricio,  whom  the  State  of  Chihuahua  rewarded  with  a  fancy 
nickeled  rifle.  This  same  Mauricio  is  said  to  have  killed  Cap- 
tain Emmet  Crawford,  who  had  gone  into  Chihuahua,  under 
treaty  with  Mexico,  in  pursuit  of  Chief  Ju. 

yictorio  has  often  been  called  a  Mescalero  Apache,  but  he 
was  a  Chiricahua  Apache,  although  many  of  his  warriors  were 
Mescaleros.  He  always  avoided  battle  when  his  women  and 
children  were  with  him,  but  accompanied  by  his  men,  he  com- 
mitted some  of  the  most  frightful  crimes  ever  perpetrated  by 
Western  Indians.  During  his  most  successful  encounters,  he 
was  strong  and  virile,  even  though  he  was  past  fifty.  His  ex- 
termination rid  the  border  of  its  deadliest  and  fiercest  enemy. 

After  Victorio  was  killed,  the  remainder  of  the  band  scat- 
tered. A  few  small  parties  recrossed  the  Rio  Grande  and  were 
met  by  United  States  soldiers,  where  most  of  them  were  killed 
or  captured.  One  remnant  of  the  band,  however,  reached  the 


272  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Diablo  Mountains,  which  they  gained  by  a  circuitous  route, 
crossing  the  Rio  Grande  into  Mexico  and  recrossing  into  Texas 
between  Eagle  Springs  and  Quitman  Canyon. 

Colonel  Baylor  and  Captain  Charles  Nevill  joined  forces. 
With  twenty-five  men  they  struck  the  trail  of  the  fleeing  In- 
dians, which  they  followed  for  five  days  with  but  little  food 
and  nothing  but  melted  snow  to  drink.  One  night  they  camped 
two  miles  from  where  the  Indians  had  established  themselves, 
and  early  the  next  morning  took  the  enemy  by  surprise.  The 
fight  lasted  only  a  short  time,  but  was  decisive,  crowning  the 
rangers  with  complete  success.  Four  bucks,  two  squaws,  two 
children,  sixteen  head  of  stock  were  killed,  and  ammunition, 
firearms,  and  commodities  which  had  been  stolen  by  the  In- 
dians were  recovered.  There  were  no  casualties  on  the  ranger 
side. 

One  of  the  last  raids  in  the  Big  Bend  was  led  by  Magoosh, 
chief  of  a  band  of  lawless  red  men  who  murdered  and  stole 
whenever  the  opportunity  came.  Magoosh  claimed  to  be  the 
last  active  chief  of  the  Apaches,  and  said  he  came  down  from 
New  Mexico  where  he  saw  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  be- 
tween Marfa  and  Valentine.  Thereupon  he  surrendered,  stat- 
ing he  had  seen  iron  horses  pursuing  him  when  he  saw  a  train 
pass. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  273 


CHAPTER  XX 

In  1882,  the  Big  Bend  was  freed  from  its  last  wild  Indians. 
Of  this  tribe,  known  as  the  Chisos  Apaches,  Alsate  was  the 
chief.  He  differed  somewhat  from  other  chiefs,  as  he  himself 
was  the  son  of  a  Mexican  who  had  been  stolen  in  his  youth  by 
the  Indians.  From  infancy,  he  grew  up  among  them,  know- 
ing nothing  but  their  method  of  living  and  their  manner  of  war- 
fare. He  was,  withal,  brave  and  fearless,  and  was  for  many 
years  associated  with  the  operations  of  the  Chisos  Apaches. 

Prior  to  1882,  attempts  had  been  made  to  drive  the  Indians 
out  of  the  country  but  to  no  avail ;  and  it  was  left  for  the  in- 
sidious policy  of  Porfirio  Diaz  to  finally  forward  their  capture. 
The  Apaches  made  their  home  in  the  triangle  of  Texas,  lying 
between  the  Pecos  and  Rio  Grande,  and  south  of  New  Mexico, 
which  was  the  last  foothold  of  the  wild,  untrammeled  Indian  in 
Texas.  They  had  their  rancherias  in  the  Chisos  Mountains, 
but  were  compelled  to  shift  their  position  from  time  to  time  to 
avoid  the  rangers  and  soldiers.  This  part  of  the  country  had 
been  closely  watched  for  some  time  by  Diaz,  who  determined 
on  the  capture  and  extermination  of  these  Indians. 

To  further  such  a  capture  entailed  many  disadvantages,  and 
numerous  plans  were  discussed  by  Chihuahua  officials.  It  was 
possible  for  the  Indians  to  cross  into  Texas  within  a  few  hours, 
and  escape  the  Mexican  pursuit.  This  emergency  had  to  be 
dealt  with  in  whatever  plan  was  formulated. 

At  last  it  was  decided  to  employ  the  services  of  a  man  named 
Lionecio  Castillo,  who  was  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the 
habits  of  the  Indians.  He  was  of  a  doubtful  character,  and  was 
what  the  Mexicans  call  a  "rattero,"  or  petty  thief.  He  had 
spent  most  of  his  time  in  jail,  and,  when  out,  spent  his  time  in 
outlawry  and  thieving.  He  had  cultivated  the  acquaintance  of 
the  Apache  Indians,  and  perhaps  had  joined  and  aided  in  their 
thefts. 


274  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Such  a  man  would  prove  very  valuable  to  the  Mexican 
officials  as  a  "stool  pigeon,"  and  Diaz  lost  no  time  in  employing 
him.  Castillo  was  an  intimate  of  Alsate,  and  it  was  to  the  chief 
that  he  went  to  make  arrangements  according  to  a  plan  devised 
by  his  employers.  Owing  to  the  erratic  movements  of  the  In- 
dians it  was  a  tedious  search  for  Castillo,  but  he  finally  found 
the  cautious  band. 

According  to  his  instructions,  he  represented  himself  as  a 
great  friend  of  Alsate  and  his  band.  He  informed  the  chief 
that  he  had  been  sent  to  make  a  treaty  with  him,  under  which 
the  Indians  were  to  be  placed  in  a  reservation  and  were  to  be 
dealt  out  certain  provisions  and  clothes  at  regular  intervals. 
This  was  the  manner  in  which  the  Indians  were  treated  by  the 
United  States,  and  it  had  proved  successful.  Therefore,  Al- 
sate did  not  object  since  his  pepple  were  to  be  well  fed  and 
well  treated.  To  fortify  his  story,  Castillo  produced  certain 
papers  adorned  with  gorgeous  gold  and  green  seals,  bearing  the 
impress  of  some  Chihuahua  official  with  irrelevant  writing  and 
fraudulent  signatures. 

The  bait  was  taken.  None  of  Alsate's  band  could  read 
Spanish,  but  they  could  enjoy  the  green  and  gold  glitter  as  well 
as  any  Mexican,  and  could  feel  the  proper  respect  for  officials 
and  tinsels.  They  had  heard  that  the  United  States  did  make 
such  treaties  with  their  Indian  wards,  so  why  should  not  the 
Mexican  government  do  the  same? 

But  with  all  the  temptation  of  the  glittering  document,  their 
cunning  caution  did  not  entirely  leave  the  Indians.  They  de- 
sired further  proof  of  Castillo's  good  faith.  It  was,  therefore, 
arranged  that  two  or  three  Indians  should  meet  Castillo  and 
the  Mexican  representatives  at  the  Presidio  of  San  Carlos,  on 
a  certain  day,  of  a  certain  moon,  when  a  treaty  should  be  made. 

Promptly  at  the  time  set,  Colorado,  one  of  Alsate's  sub- 
chiefs,  and  two  other  Indians,  made  their  appearance  at  San 
Carlos.  Here  they  were  escorted  to  the  town  house  on  the 
plaza,  and  were  met  in  solemn  council  by  a  number  of  men  in 
lace  and  gold  uniform,  having  every  appearance  of  military 
officials.  Here  for  two  days,  with  all  the  seeming  solemnity, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  275 

the  farce  was  played.  A  number  of  details  were  agreed  on,  and 
among  them  were  those  that  provided  that  on  a  certain  day  of 
the  next  moon  all  the  living  representatives  of  the  Apaches 
should  come  to  San  Carlos  and  should  there  receive  each  a  red 
blanket,  a  belt,  and  certain  provisions. 

On  the  evening  before  the  day  set,  several  companies  of  the 
24th  Mexican  Infantry  marched  from  Presidio  del  Norte,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Conchos  River,  on  the  road  to  San  Carlos. 
At  daybreak  the  next  morning  they  camped  in  a  secluded  spot 
to  escape  the  keen  vision  of  any  sentinel  of  Alsate's  band,  and 
there  they  remained  during  the  day  in  readiness  for  the  climax 
in  the  game  then  being  played. 

In  the  meantime,  the  Indians,  men,  women,  and  children, 
had  set  out  from  their  mountain  retreat  for  San  Carlos.  A  sen- 
tinel was  placed  on  the  nearest  mountain  top  to  spy  out  any 
signs  of  soldiers.  After  this  every  member  of  the  Apache  band, 
after  an  inspection  of  the  town,  entered  and  camped  on  the 
plaza. 

They  were  cordially  received,  and  were  given  provisions  in 
abundance.  Cattle  and  goats  were  slaughtered,  and  cooked 
sweetmeats  of  every  kind  that  would  be  tempting  to  the  Indians 
were  distributed  among  them.  In  every  hospitable  way  that 
could  be  arranged,  the  Indians  were  treated  as  if  they  were 
guests  at  a  royal  fiesta.  All  during  the  day,  alcohol  in  different 
forms  was  brought  in  to  the  feast,  and  the  Indians  were  in- 
vited to  partake.  Some  of  them  were  aware  of  the  danger  of 
the  white  man's  "fire-water"  and  endeavored  to  prevent  the 
others  from  indulging.  But  in  spite  of  the  warnings,  by  night- 
fall almost  every  member  of  the  band  was  intoxicated ;  and  as 
the  supply  of  liquor  was  apparently  unlimited,  they  drank  far 
into  the  night,  until  stupefied. 

In  the  meantime,  the  Mexican  soldiers  had  commenced  their 
march  to  San  Carlos.  As  the  Indian  sentinel  on  the  mountain 
top  had  become  fearful  of  losing  his  share  of  the  festivities, 
and  seeing  no  signs  of  soldiers,  he  had  joined  his  companions 
to  participate  in  their  drunken  orgy.  Consequently,  the  march 
of  the  soldiers  was  not  observed,  so  they  reached  San  Carlos, 


276  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

and  waited  in  the  distance  until  silence  should  fall  on  the 
scene. 

At  an  early  hour  the  next  morning,  they  quietly  surrounded 
the  little  town  and  closed  in  on  the  drunken  Indians.  Some  of 
them  resisted  and  were  killed ;  but  the  majority  were  captured 
and  bound  while  in  a  state  of  drunken  stupor.  They  were  then 
taken  to  Santa  Rosa,  to  await  departure  to  the  City  of  Mexico. 

Residing  at  Santa  Rosa  was  an  important  man  named  Don 
Manuel  Musquiz,  who  was  none  other  than  the  uncle  of  Alsate. 
It  has  been  heretofore  related  that  Alsate's  father  was  a  Mexi- 
can, stolen  in  his  youth  by  the  Apaches.  He  was  now  old  and 
blind,  as  a  result  of  a  wound  in  his  head,  but  he  remembered 
that  it  was  in  Santa  Rosa  that  his  brother  resided.  Thinking  he 
might  influence  the  release  of  the  Indians,  the  old  man  sent  for 
his  brother.  When  Don  Manuel  came  to  where  the  Indians 
were,  Alsate's  father  related  to  him  how  he  had  been  stolen 
in  his  youth,  and  that  his  name  was  that  of  Don  Maguel,  which 
also  was  the  name  of  their  mother. 

But  Don  Manuel  was  not  ready  to  believe  this  story.  Said 
"he:  "If  you  are  Miguel  Musquiz,  my  brother,  you  have  six 
toes  on  your  right  foot." 

The  blind  man,  stooping,  took  off  his  moccasin  and  said, 
"Brother,  for  that  the  mountain  trails  are  rocky  and  hard  to 
travel,  long  ago  have  I  sent  off  the  sixth  toe.  But  here  is  the 
scar  where  the  sixth  toe  once  rested." 

Don  Manuel  then  knew  him  to  be  his  brother,  and  set  about 
to  help  him.  General  Blanco,  a  member  of  the  General  Council 
of  Mexico,  was  an  intimate  friend  of  his,  and  Don  Manuel  felt 
that  the  time  had  come  when  his  friend  could  assist  him.  First 

v 

he  claimed  his  brother  as  an  Indian  captive,  and  the  soldiers 
were  forced  to  give  him  up.  But  Alsate,  the  chief,  they  would 
not  surrender,  so  to  him  his  uncle  gave  a  letter,  addressed  to 
liis  friend  General  Blanco.  He  cautioned  Alsate  to  guard  it 
well  until  he  reached  the  end  of  his  journey,  when  he  was  to 
give  the  letter  to  no  one  excepting  General  Blanco,  at  Mexico 
City. 

The  soldiers  then  started  on  their  march  for  Chihuahua, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  277 

carrying  their  prisoners,  manacled  and  tied  together.  The 
wretched  prisoners  in  sore  suffering  of  body  and  mind  were 
driven  in  sullen  silence  along  the  highway.  On  the  long  march 
to  the  City,  many  of  the  band  died  under  the  hardships,  and 
when  at  last  they  were  thrust  into  the  famous  prison  of  the 
Acordo,  to  await  the  determination  of  the  Council,  but  few 
remained. 

Alsate  requested  the  Council  to  listen  to  him,  and  after 
being  given  a  hearing  he  pleaded  for  his  people,  asking  only 
for  a  chance  to  live  and  breathe  the  air  of  the  mountains.  He 
presented  to  General  Blanco  the  paper  from  Don  Manuel,  ask- 
ing him  to  befriend  the  Indians. 

The  Council,  in  the  meantime,  had  decided  that  the  Indians 
should  be  separated  and  given  out  among  different  families  in 
different  towns  in  far  Southern  Mexico.  Thus  was  a  plan 
brought  about  to  make  slaves  of  the  Indians,  separating  rela- 
tives and  friends  and  loved  ones ;  and  it  was  so  arranged  that 
none  of  them  should  ever  escape  from  this  bondage  to  return 
to  their  former  home  in  the  mountains. 

Following  Alsate's  entreaty,  they  were  told  that  they  would 
be  sent  back  to  their  rancheria.  They  were  then  removed  from 
the  prison,  and  taken  in  wagons  on  a  return  journey  to  their 
rancheria.  They  had  no  faith  in  the  statement  of  the  Mexicans, 
and  Alsate  was  all  the  time  scheming  and  planning  for  a  means 
of  escape. 

At  a  signal  from  their  chief,  being  unbound,  the  Indians 
leaped  from  the  wagons  and  fled  into  the  woods  and  hills.  Some 
of  them  were  later  recaptured,  and  distributed  as  slaves  among 
Mexican  families  in  Southern  Mexico.  But  Alsate,  the  fear- 
less, and  the  courageous,  was  not  intercepted;  neither  was  his 
squaw  and  some  of  his  band.  He  dropped  out  of  sight  and 
was  not  seen  nor  heard  of  for  many  years.  It  was  thought  that 
the  Apache  chief  had  died,  and  soon  he  was  forgotten  among 
those  who  had  heretofore  so  feared  him  and  his  band. 

But  after  a  time  sinister  rumor  began  to  creep  over  the 
old  frontier  of  the  Chisos  Mountains.  It  was  told  by  the  camp- 
fires  at  night  among  the  shepherds  that  the  ghost  of  Alsate  had 


278  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

made  its  appearance  in  the  old  haunts  of  the  Chisos  Apaches. 
One  man  had  seen  the  phantom,  as  the  evening  began  to  fall, 
walking  on  the  slopes  of  the  Del  Carmen  Mountains.  Another 
had  seen  it  standing  on  the  tip  of  a  rocky  point  overlooking 
the  Rio  Grande. 

The  rumor  became  so  persistent  that  people  became  afraid 
to  be  out  at  night  in  the  vicinity  of  the  chosen  haunts  of  the 
ghost.  In  the  summer  of  1886,  two  Americans  were  camping 
along  the  Rio  Grande  opposite  San  Vicente,  east  of  the  Chisos. 
Upon  awaking  every  morning,  they  found  moccasin  prints  on 
the  ground  or  in  the  sand  within  six  feet  of  their  beds.  The 
prints  were  of  two  persons,  big  prints  and  small  ones,  as  if  made 
by  a  man  and  a  woman.  The  Americans  never  saw  nor  heard 
anyone  in  the  night,  even  when  they  began  to  watch.  The 
tracks  were  to  be  seen  for  a  distance  of  twenty  miles  or  more 
along  the  river  with  San  Vicente  as  a  pivot.  The  Americans 
followed  the  prints  endlessly,  but  with  no  success  of  discovering 
the  sign  of  the  makers. 

Nor  was  there  any  harm  done  by  whoever  made  the  prints. 
The  haunters  seemed  to  have  no  purpose,  and  the  system  of 
their  wanderings  was  not  more  than  a  wisp  of  wind. 

Finally  the  San  Carlos  authorities  sent  out  custom  guards, 
but  the  phantom  figures  were  too  wary  to  permit  the  mounted 
officers  to  catch  even  a  glimpse  of  their  shapes. 

In  searching  about  the  mountains  where  the  ghosts  had 
often  been  seen,  there  was  found  a  cave  with  signs  of  recent 
occupancy  by  some  animal,  which  was  able  to  gather  and  carry 
in  grass  for  a  bed,  to  slay  and  eat  birds,  rabbits,  and  other  ani- 
mals, and  to  build  a  fire  for  cooking.  It  was  hardly  supposed 
that  a  ghost  would  have  occasion  for  fire  and  food,  so  the  search 
passed  on.  As  the  ghost  was  so  often  seen  in  this  neighbor- 
hood, and  about  the  cave,  it  soon  became  known  by  the  name 
of  "Cueva  de  Alsate,"  or  Alsate's  Cave ;  but  as  Alsate's  ghost 
harmed  no  one,  it  was  not  thought  expedient  to  admit  of  further 
official  pursuit. 

The  report  of  the  ghost  did,  however,  trouble  one  man. 
This  was  none  other  than  Castillo,  the  "stool  pigeon"  who  had 


betrayed  the  Indians.  As  soon  as  the  report  became  current 
that  the  Indian  chief's  ghost  was  at  large  in  his  former  haunts, 
Castillo  found  occasion  to  leave  the  country.  When  the  custom 
guards  reported  that  they  could  find  no  evidence  of  Alsate's 
presence,  Castillo  again  returned  to  San  Carlos,  but  no  sooner 
had  he  made  his  reappearance  than  the  ghost  was  reported  to 
be  seen  again. 

But  after  a  while  the  stories  ceased,  and  the  people  about 
the  country  began  to  take  on  fresh  courage  and  to  pass  in  broad 
daylight  near  Alsate's  Cave.  Still  later,  a  small  band  of  the 
curious  took  their  lives  in  their  hands  and  ventured  with  fear 
and  trembling  to  search  the  cave.  There  in  an  obscure  corner 
lay  the  mummied  remains  of  Alsate,  the  Apache  chief.  Near 
was  the  charcoal  remnants  of  a  fire  and  signs  of  a  frail  bed. 
His  squaw  was  not  found  with  the  chief's  mummied  remains, 
and  it  was  supposed  that  she  had  returned  some  time  before  to 
her  people  in  San  Carlos. 

And  so  it  came  about  that,  even  though  there  might  have 
remained  a  few  hybrids  in  some  scattered  towns  in  the  far 
south  of  Mexico,  where  they  had  been  taken  into  slavery,  in 
whose  veins  ran  the  blood  of  the  Chisos  Apaches,  nevertheless 
when  Alsate  died  in  the  darkness  of  his  cave,  alone  and  uncared 
for,  there  passed  away  the  last  of  the  Chisos  Apaches. 


280  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 


CHAPTER  XXI 

One  morning,  in  1882,  Jay  Gould,  of  the  Texas  Pacific 
Railroad,  awoke  to  find  that  his  dream  of  constructing  a  trans- 
continental railroad  had  been  rudely  interrupted.  His  rival, 
Collis  P.  Huntington,  was  working  while  he,  Gould,  was  dream- 
ing, and  the  builder  of  the  Southern  Pacific  had  contracted  with 
every  steel-rail  maker  in  the  United  States  for  three  years 
ahead. 

The  building  of  the  Southern  Pacific  road  had  been  delayed 
so  long  that  there  was  a  possibility  of  losing  the  franchise  be- 
fore it  could  be  constructed.  Because  of  this,  Huntington  lost 
no  time,  and  worked  his  men  from  daylight  until  dark,  and 
often  by  candle  light.  There  was  a  saying  that  one  could  track 
Huntington  by  the  quarters  he  dropped  behind  him.  But  he 
always  dropped  money  for  a  purpose,  and  in  the  steel  rail  case, 
before  the  expiration  of  his  three  years'  contract,  the  price  of 
steel  had  advanced  so  that  he  profited  millions. 

The  railroad  was  constructed  by  the  Civic  Improvement 
Company,  of  which  J.  H.  Strawbridge  was  president  and  man- 
ager. Colonel  Gray  had  been  chief  engineer  of  the  railroad 
during  the  time  the  preliminary  survey  was  being  made.  At 
the  death  of  Gray,  Hood  was  appointed  chief  engineer  to  fill 
the  vacancy.  N.  G.  Gillett  was  assistant  engineer.  There  were 
six  or  seven  thousand  men  working  on  the  construction.  All 
of  the  bosses  and  teamsters  were  white  men,  but  the  laborers 
were  mostly  Chinese  and  of  other  nationalities. 

The  preliminary  survey  was  a  mammoth  job  in  itself.  There 
were  employed  twelve  eight-horse  teams  to  haul  water  from  the 
Rio  Grande  to  the  Camp.  Eighty-five  men  were  employed  in 
the  surveying  party. 

The  surveyors  were  subjected  to  all  of  the  nascent  wildness 
of  a  new,  unsettled  country.  Neither  was  it  without  its  dan- 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  281 

gers,  for  they  frequently  had  skirmishes  with  the  Indians.  They 
also  came  in  contact  with  great  herds  of  antelope,  and  buffalo 
east  of  the  Pecos  River. 

Following  their  topographical  notes,  they  discovered  that 
Piasano  Pass  was  the  highest  point  on  the  G.  H.  &  S.  A.  Rail- 
road. This  point  was  5,078  feet ;  but  was  not  the  highest,  how- 
ever, on  the  Southern  Pacific,  as  this  honor  has  been  accorded 
to  Tehachapi  Pass,  in  California. 

Foreigners  coming  to  the  new  country,  encountered  many- 
unusual  and  bizarre  experiences  during  the  construction  of 
the  Southern  Pacific.  Not  acquainted  with  the  gruff  methods 
of  the  pioneer,  they  many  times  found  themselves  facing  big 
revolvers  for  the  least  provocation.  Kleinman,  an  Austrian, 
came  over  during  the  construction  of  the  road,  en  route  to> 
Presidio,  to  join  his  uncle,  Sam  Goodman,  who  was  proprietor 
of  a  store.  His  only  knowledge  of  English  had  been  acquired 
during  a  nine-day  stay  in  England,  and  while  aboard  a  ship 
coming  to  Galveston. 

Kleinman  was  thoroughly  unacquainted  with  the  early 
Texan,  and  was  surprised  when  he  was  invited  to  take  a  drink 
by  Uncle  John  Davis,  who  ranched  on  the  Alamito.  Davis 
knew  the  Austrian's  uncle  and  had  busied  himself  to  make  it 
pleasant  for  him  during  a  stop-over  at  Marfa.  But  Kleinman 
was  a  temperate  man,  and  refused  to  drink.  He  quickly  changed 
his  mind,  however,  when  he  found  himself  looking  into  the 
muzzle  of  a  big  revolver  poked  near  his  nose.  But  with  all 
this,  Uncle  John  was  a  kind  man  who  favored  his  neighbors, 
and  would  cook  a  meal  for  a  passerby  at  any  time  of  the  night 
or  day. 

Even  though  the  pioneer  was  gruff,  he  was  not  desperate. 
Neither  were  the  cowboys,  although  there  has  been  a  fallacious 
idea  that  they  belonged  to  a  class  entirely  undesirable.  This  is 
far  from  being  true,  and  there  were  found  among  the  old-type 
of  cowboy  representatives  of  some  of  the  most  peaceable  pioneer 
families.  Those  who  gave  much  trouble  were  the  cattle  thieves 
and  outlaws,  for  as  late  as  in  the  spring  of  1883  there  were 
organized  bands  of  the  latter.  Heavy  thefts  were  continually 


282  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

being  made,  until  the  cowmen  of  the  vicinity  made  an  attempt 
to  bring  about  a  regeneration,  and  to  establish  a  law  and  order 
that  would  not  be  ignored  by  the  most  daring. 

The  cowmen  organized,  and  effected  a  total  revolution  in 
the  business  of  thievery,  so  that  in  most  cattle  districts  the 
industry  became  not  only  safe,  but  a  most  preferred  invest- 
ment. The  cattlemen  were  assisted  in  bringing  about  this 
change  by  the  rangers,  one  of  whom  was  Colonel  George  W. 
Baylor,  who  was  one  of  the  veteran  rangers  in  the  Texas  serv- 
ice. Colonel  Baylor  was  known  far  and  wide  for  his  bravery 
and  valor.  Through  his  efforts  many  bands  of  marauders, 
both  Mexican  and  Indian,  were  intercepted  and  arrested.  He 
had  killed  a  dozen  men  in  hand-to-hand  encounters,  and 
was  held  to  be  invaluable  in  the  service  by  cattlemen  and 
Texans. 

Colonel  Baylor  had  many  narrow  escapes  during  the  cam- 
paign to  exterminate  the  cattle  thief.  On  one  occasion  he  went 
to  arrest  a  desperado,  accompanied  by  one  of  his  men.  He 
found  the  outlaw  with  a  confederate  at  a  house  on  the  moun- 
tain side.  Colonel  Baylor  rapped  on  the  door,  and  the  confed- 
erate stepped  out  and  asked  what  was  wanted.  Baylor  stated 
that  he  had  come  to  make  an  arrest.  At  this,  the  man  on  the 
inside  immediately  fired  twice  upon  Baylor  through  the  open- 
ing. One  shot  disabled  his  left  hand,  and  the  second  struck 
an  iron  ring  in  the  belt  he  wore.  The  confederate,  seeing  Bay- 
lor, as  he  supposed,  totally  disabled,  turned  and  fired  on  the 
other  ranger.  Baylor,  resting  his  shotgun  on  the  injured  hand, 
fired  a  load  of  buckshot  into  the  man's  breast  at  close  range  in 
time  to  save  his  friend,  and  then  turned  upon  the  remaining 
man,  who  had  stepped  inside  the  room  to  procure  another  rifle. 
As  the  desperado  turned  with  the  weapon  in  his  hand,  he  re- 
ceived Baylor's  second  load,  and  dropped  dead. 

Baylor  lost  his  thumb  as  a  result  of  this  encounter,  and  as 
he  had  a  passion  for  music  he  was  heard  to  exclaim,  "Well, 
that  does  up  my  old  violin !" 

But  through  his  efforts  there  was  brought  about  a  total 
change  in  the  cattle  districts.  Organizations  were  so  perfected, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  283 

so  vigilant,  and  so  powerful,  that  the  outlaw  began  to  realize 
that  he  took  his  life  in  his  hands  at  every  attempted  theft. 

In  the  same  year  the  Shafter  Mine,  which  was  called  the 
Presidio  Mining  Company,  was  discovered  by  John  W.  Spen- 
cer, who  found  float  of  free  milling  silver  carbonates,  zinc  car- 
bonates, and  lead.  The  four  original  owners  were  General 
Shafter,  Lieutenant  Bullis,  Lieutenant  Wilhelme,  and  John  W. 
Spencer.  The  first  foreman  of  the  Shafter  mine  was  S.  A. 
Wright.  Prior  to  this  he  had  discovered  gold  in  the  San  An- 
tonio Canyon,  fifteen  miles  west  of  Shafter,  and  later  discov- 
ered Young's  lead  property. 

Boquillas  was  settled  in  1894  by  D.  E.  Lindsey.  He  was 
running  a  bullion  train  in  Mexico  when  he  saw  an  opportunity 
for  a  store  on  the  Texas  side  of  the  Rio  Grande,  opposite  Bo- 
quillas, Mexico,  where  also  was  located  the  Del  Carmen  mine. 
Going  to  San  Antonio,  he  purchased  a  stock  of  goods,  and 
freighted  it  to  Boquillas  from  Marathon,  meanwhile  breaking 
the  road.  He  employed  men  to  go  ahead  clearing  the  way  and 
picking  out  the  best  trail.  Two  weeks  were  consumed  in  mak- 
ing the  trip,  and  when  he  reached  Boquillas,  Lindsey  could  not 
get  within  two  miles  of  the  place  where  he  wanted  to  locate  his 
store,  because  of  the  impassable  road  and  cliffs.  Accustomed 
to  hardships,  he  was  not  in  the  least  daunted  by  this  impedi- 
ment. Throwing  off  his  clothes,  he  swam  the  river,  entering 
Boquillas,  Mexico,  with  only  a  blanket  about  him.  There  he 
obtained  burros  to  transport  his  commodities  to  the  selected 
site. 

His  first  store  was  a  rude  structure  with  counters  made  of 
adobe  framed  over  with  goods  boxes.  It  was  not  long,  how- 
ever, before  he  had  enlarged  his  place  of  business,  and  had  as 
many  as  250  wagons  operating,  hauling  supplies  to  the  mine, 
and  back-hauling  ore.  His  first  customer  was  a  woman,  who 
was  carried  across  the  river  on  the  shoulders  of  two  men. 

It  was  considerably  earlier  than  this  that  a  band  of  Mexican 
cattle  and  horse  thieves  had  been  raiding  across  the  border, 
stealing  horses  and  cattle  and  keeping  the  ranch  people  in  con- 
stant terror.  This  band  numbered  about  thirty-seven  of  the 


284  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

most  desperate  and  bloodthirsty  outlaws  in  the  great  Mexican 
state  of  Chihuahua,  and  the  border  was  continually  infested 
with  thieves  and  murderers.  Not  a  day  passed  but  word  of 
some  outrage  reached  the  state  capital  and  was  brought  before 
Governor  Ireland,  who  determined  to  clear  up  the  border  from 
Brownsville  to  El  Paso. 

Living  in  San  Antonio  at  that  time  was  Captain  Lee  Hall, 
then  commander  of  the  rangers,  who  already  had  won  distinc- 
tion by  his  many  skillful  and  adroit  captures  of  cattle  thieves. 
The  governor  sent  word  to  Captain  Hall  to  come  to  Austin. 
A  meeting  was  quickly  arranged  by  the  two,  and  it  took  only 
five  minutes  to  arrange  the  famous  Red  Ride. 

The  advance  began  at  Brownsville,  Hall  having  the  entire 
ranger  force  at  his  command.  He  divided  the  companies  into 
squads  of  two  and  four  men,  and  formed  them  in  a  straight 
line,  reaching  north  into  the  state  at  intervals  of  from  200 
yards  to  a  mile  between  squads.  The  length  of  the  screen  was 
about  twenty  miles  long,  and  within  a  week  it  began  its  west- 
ward sweep. 

The  line  moved  with  deadly  precision,  and  each  night  when 
camp  was  made,  all  was  clear  in  the  rear.  In  all  the  history 
of  the  Southwest,  there  never  was  a  clean-up  made  in  so  thor- 
ough a  manner.  The  number  of  desperadoes  killed  by  the 
rangers  was  never  known,  as  no  account  was  kept  of  the  out- 
law casualties.  That  was  too  unimportant  a  matter  during  the 
Red  Ride,  but  it  was  significant  that  during  the  drive  not  a 
ranger  lost  his  life.  The  ride  ended  at  El  Paso  about  six  weeks 
after  it  started  from  Brownsville. 

Shortly  after  this,  Captain  Hall  distinguished  himself  fur- 
ther by  discovering  the  source  of  the  relay  cattle  stealing  sys- 
tem and  by  arresting  the  chief.  So  far  as  the  outside  world 
knew,  this  chief  was  entirely  respectable.  He  had  four  sons 
and  two  daughters,  the  latter  being  noted  for  their  beauty. 
Captain  Hall  and  the  rangers  were  the  only  ones  who  knew  that 
this  man  was  responsible  for  much  of  the  stolen  cattle  of  the 
southwest.  Cattle  thieves  would  take  their  loot  and  pass  it 
north  through  the  relay  stations  to  the  Indian  Territory,  where 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  285 

those  in  charge  of  the  northernmost  station  in  the  system 
would  dispose  of  the  cattle,  and  later  distribute  the  proceeds 
along  down  the  line  to  the  old  man  at  San  Antonio. 

The  old  man  found  out  that  the  rangers  had  discovered  his 
system,  and  he  decided  to  trap  Captain  Hall  and  his  men  before 
they  could  trap  him.  It  was  planned  that  his  daughters  should 
give  a  ball  in  honor  of  the  ranger  captain,  but  Hall  suspected 
all  of  the  time  that  this  was  a  scheme  to  bring  about  his  murder. 

On  the  night  set  for  the  supposed  dance,  Hall,  accompanied 
by  a  single  ranger,  proceeded  to  the  ranch  of  the  chief  of  the 
relay  system.  As  he  entered  the  room  where  the  dance  pre- 
sumably was  to  take  place,  the  women  ran  frantically  from  the 
room,  expecting  that  a  fusillade  would  follow.  Hall  and  his 
lieutenant  marched  into  the  room,  walked  up  to  the  relay  chief, 
and  in  a  moment  disarmed  him.  Captain  Hall  then  proceeded  to 
disarm  each  of  the  party  of  outlaws.  Not  a  man  resisted, 
thinking  that  the  house  was  surrounded  by  rangers.  After  the 
disarmament,  the  ranger  tied  the  hands  of  the  eight  outlaws, 
and  marched  them  into  San  Antonio,  where  they  were  turned 
over  to  the  sheriff.  Thus  ended  the  relay  system  for  all  time. 


286  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 


CHAPTER  XXII 

Perhaps  better  than  any  other  writer  on  the  Spanish  South- 
west, Judge  O.  W.  Williams  has  caught  the  subtle  undertones 
of  the  Mexican  story-tellers.  The  two  stories  following  are 
taken  from  his  notes,  written  while  surveying  in  the  Big  Bend, 
in  the  early  '905.  Judge  Williams  says : 

Many  of  the  distinctive  and  peculiar  plants  of  the  Trans- 
Pecos  country  have  no  English  names  in  common  usage.  When 
the  English  speaking  peoples  settled  in  that  country,  they  found 
that  the  Mexicans  had  already  in  use  a  large  vocabulary  of 
Spanish  words,  to  designate  these  plants  and  shrubs,  and  this 
vocabulary  was  generally  adopted  by  the  new  settlers.  Since 
then  very  few  English  names  have  come  into  use  to  supplant  the 
Spanish  names. 

In  writing  out  the  story  of  the  Honca1  Accursed,  I  have  used 
exclusively  these  Spanish  words,  in  order  to  keep  up  a  uniform 
system  of  names,  and  this  was  not  possible  with  English  names. 
As  many  of  the  readers  will  probably  not  be  familiar  with  these 
terms  I  have  thought  it  best  to  add  a  short  glossary,  explaining 
briefly  the  meaning  of  the  Spanish  names  and  giving  a  short 
description  of  the  plants  so  named. 

The  story  of  the  Honca  Accursed  was  told  to  me  by  Juan, 
who  was  often  my  guide  while  surveying  in  the  Big  Bend. 

An  hour's  ride  had  carried  us  from  the  hills  to  a  wide  valley 
that  lay  between  the  mountain  ranges.  That  hour  had  trans- 
ported us  from  one  vegetable  world  to  another,  as  if  we  were 
in  the  hands  of  the  genius  of  some  New  World  Aladdin's  lamp. 
The  sparse  mountain  oaks  and  junipers,  with  their  stunted  and 
dwarfed  bodies,  had  disappeared,  and  we  were  now  among  the 
inhabitants  of  the  valley,  a  floral  people  even  more  stunted  and 
dwarfed  and  of  forms  infinitely  more  strange  and  grotesque 

1  Honca.  This  is  an  evergreen  thora  tree,  4  to  8  feet  high,  of  a  habit  of 
growth  described  above. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  287 

than  their  kin  of  the  mountains.  We  had  left  a  people  of 
quakers,  wearing  the  garments  of  peace  and  harmony ;  we  had 
come  among  a  people  of  war,  frozen  by  some  magic  with  sword 
in  hand  and  armor  buckled  for  the  fray.  Lance  or  sword  or 
dagger  peeped  out  from  almost  every  bush,  and  where  we  saw 
a  shrub  without  weapons  in  sight  we  scrutinized  it  with  a 
strong  suspicion  that  somewhere  in  its  drab  or  russet  bosom 
there  lurked  some  secret  deadly  missile  ready  to  be  thrust  into 
the  rash  intruder. 

For  this  was  the  flora  of  the  arid  region,  and  our  scientists 
tell  us  that  this  extraordinary  and  varied  development  of  leaf, 
stipule,  and  stem  into  thorn  is  the  result  of  an  age  long  struggle 
on  the  part  of  the  plants  against  their  competitors  and  enemies. 
Now  the  dagger,  sword,  and  lance  would  avail  little  in  the 
struggle  for  life  against  their  competitors,  who  carry  on  their 
operations  chiefly  under  the  ground,  vegetable  sappers  and 
miners  who  in  darkness  and  depth  steal  the  moisture  and  life 
away  from  the  beleaguered  citadel.  But  against  their  enemies, 
the  birds  that  steal  away  the  seeds  and  the  animals  that  browse 
on  leaf  and  stem,  these  weapons  would  avail  much.  So  we 
understand  that  the  panoply  of  war  which  these  plants  wear 
is  not  put  on  for  service  against  their  neighbors  of  the  flora, 
but  against  the  predatory  animal  life  that  feeds  on  them. 

Yet,  as  one  gazes  over  this  troop  born  of  the  dragon's  teeth, 
that  has  sprung  armed  from  the  ground,  the  imagination  easily 
falls  into  the  thought  that  it  is  a  picture  of  war  of  neighbor 
against  neighbor,  class  against  class,  brother  against  brother, 
and  we  can  even  picture  to  ourselves  certain  resemblances 
among  the  plants  to  characters  of  the  Middle  Age,  that  age 
when  every  man  was  an  Ishmael  whose  hand  was  raised  against 
every  other  man.  Over  yonder  stands  the  courtly  palma? 
whom  we  may  liken  to  the  Knight  Errant,  kindliest  of  all  the 
spirits  of  this  war-like  array,  and  the  earliest  doomed  to  dis- 
appear. Within  its  coronet,  dagger  guarded,  the  crow  in  safety 
rears  her  brood.  Under  its  straw  colored  armor  the  lizard 

1  Palma.  An  aloe,  6  to  12  feet  high,  well  known  In  the  Southwest  as  the 
"Spanish  Dagger." 


288  ROMANCE  OF  PAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

hides,  and  in  the  shade  at  its  feet  the  hare  sets  his  form.  When 
it  is  decked  in  its  white  plume  the  desert  bee  sucks  desert  nec- 
tar from  its  snow-white  bells.  And  when  it  finally  falls  in  the 
battle,  the  termite2 — the  cowled  monk — shrouds  it  in  its  dusky 
pall. 

And  here  stands  the  gatun?  the  robber  baron,  with  curved 
claws  thrust  out  from  his  castle;  claws  that  never  loosen 
when  once  fastened,  that  grasp  meat  or  raiment  regardless  of 
distinction,  for  everything  is  prey  that  comes  his  way. 

Over  there  is  the  tasajillo*  Italian  bravo,  hiding  under 
cover  at  the  street  corner,  eager  to  thrust  his  stiletto  into  his  un- 
suspecting victim,  ready  as  he  does  so  to  draw  back  into  ob- 
scurity. 

Here  is  our  leech,  the  hoja~sen*  sober  of  garment  and 
wise  of  countenance,  offering  as  a  remedy  for  every  ill,  whether 
of  fever  within  or  wounds  without,  the  one  sovereign  remedy 
of  the  leaf. 

And  there,  hid  away  in  the  shade  of  some  strong  hand,  like 
the  gatun,  its  treasure  guarded  by  gnarled  roots,  is  the  tasajo* 
the  hermit  monk.  Meek  and  mild  its  drab  stem  pointed  to 
heaven  with  cross  uplifted,  while  hidden  underground  and 
warded  above  by  castle  walls  lies  its  store  of  worldly  wealth. 
In  darkness  it  blooms,  and  charms  with  its  sweetness  the  spirits 
of  the  night,  spirits  too  meek  and  lowly  to  court  the  light  of 
the  sun. 

2  Termite.     Known   to   Americans  as     "White    Ants ;"    to    Mexicans    as 
"Hormigas  Blancas."     When  a  twig  falls  to  the  ground,  these  so  called  ants 
proceed  to  devour  it,   covering  it  in  advance  with  a  thin   coating  of  mud, 
tinder  which  they  carry  on  the  consumption  of  the  woody  fibre.     They  are 
said  to  be  blind. 

3  Gatun.     Probably  a  corruption  of  "Gate  d'uno,"  known  to  Americans  as 
"Cat  Claw,"   because  of  the  recurved  thorns  with  which  it  is  armed.      It 
belongs  to  the  Acacias. 

*  Tasajill6.    Diminutive  of  Tasajo.     See  note  6. 

6Hoja-sen.  Literally  "Senna  Leaf."  A  small  shrub  2  to  3  feet  kigh. 
It  is  not  our  commercial  senna  leaf,  but  possesses  similar  medicinal  properties, 
and  is  used  by  the  Mexicans  for  the  same  purposes.  In  the  early  days  of 
West  Texas  settlement,  Mexican  freighters  returning  to  San  Antonio  from  the 
frontier  army  posts,  gathered  and  brought  back  much  of  the  leaf  for  sale  to  the 
Mexican  population  of  that  city. 

8  Tasajo.  Literally  "dried"  or  "jerked"  beef.  The  meat  so  cured  was  cut 
Into  long  strips  of  an  angular  surface,  and  hung  out  to  dry  in  the  sun  and 
wind.  Because  of  the  resemblance  in  shape  of  the  stem  of  this  plant  to  the 
long  angular  stripe  of  meat  used  for  drying,  the  name  became  fastened  to 
the  plant.  The  root  'of  this  plant  at  about  12  inches  below  the  surface  of  the 
ground  terminates  in  a  large  gorm,  which  is  much  sought  after  by  some 
animals.  The  plant  is  a  "cereus,"  probably  "Cereus  Greggii,"  and  blooms  at 
night. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  289 

And  down  on  the  sandy  barrens  lie,  waiting  for  unwary 
feet,  the  peritas,1  the  crabbed  essence  of  bristling  barbarity, 
corded  and  knotted  with  fiery  barbs,  the  caltrops  of  this  fiendish 
infantry.  No  subtle  spirit  of  distillation  can  charge  a  human 
weapon  with  more  painful  humor  than  carries  this  humble, 
crawling  porcupine  of  the  sandy  dunes. 

Here  too  is  our  outlaw,  the  biznaga*  living  apart  and 
alone,  a  law  to  himself,  and  disdaining  alike  the  power  of  the 
robber  baron  and  the  balmy  night  sweetness  of  the  hermit  monk. 
But  through  all.  its  coarse  and  roughened  hide  now  and  then 
there  breaks  forth  a  brilliant  bloom  of  star-like  purity  of  color, 
an  emblem  of  what  may  come  from  the  lowliest  and  loneliest 
human. 

Just  so,  too,  amid  all  this  scene  of  desolation,  flits  our  Prince 
of  the  Red  Hat,  the  cardinal  bird,  preening  his  feathers  in  the 
shade  of  the  gatun,  picking  insects  from  the  bells  of  the  palm, 
or  plucking  the  red  berries  from  among  the  thorns  of  the  tasa- 
jillo. 

But  nowhere  in  all  this  throng  shall  you  find  those  spirits 
of  peace  and  good  will  to  man,  the  yellow-buskined  wheat 
or  the  more  gallant  corn  with  his  golden  tasseled  cap 
and  his  green  plumes.  We  miss  these  burghers.  To  find 
them  we  must  go,  just  where  we  would  find  them  in  the 
Middle  Ages,  to  the  water's  edge,  whether  in  the  hills  or  on 
the  plains. 

Now  among  them  all  there  towered  up  here  and  there  a 
lone  figure  in  Lincoln  green,  presenting  to  every  front  an  un- 
changing face  of  thorns,  and  for  it  I  could  recall  no  suitable 
figure.  It  was  what  Americans  term  the  "All-Thorn."  It  is 
well  named,  for  stipule,  leaf,  and  stem  seem  to  have  alike  gone 
to  thorn,  so  that  at  its  outer  perimeter  it  is  difficult  to  make 
out  the  particular  thorn,  which  is  the  true  stem  along  which 

TPerita.  "Little  Pear."  Probably  a  diminutive  of  "pera,"  the  prickly 
pear.  It  is  a  cactus  of  crawling  habit,  its  limbs  hugging  the  ground  like 
those  of  a  vine,  covered  with  thorns  and  broken  at  short  intervals  with  nodes 
Of  excessive  development  of  thorns. 

8  Biznaga.  A  small  echino-cactus  with  a  thick  corrugated  skin  and  ridges 
of  spines  up  and  down  its  sides.  It  bears  after  rains  and  irregularly,  beautiful 
and  evenly  tinted  flowers.  I  find  the  term  used  among  the  Mexicans  to  desig- 
nate at  least  one  other  kind  of  cactus.  Derived  from  the  Arabic. 


290  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

runs  the  center  of  growth.    As  I  did  not  know  the  name  given 
to  it  by  the  Mexicans,  I  asked  it  of  Juan. 

"The  Honca  Accursed,"  was  the  reply. 

I  know  of  no  reason,  logical  or  grammatical,  why  there 
should  be  any  difference  of  meaning  between  "The  Honca  Ac- 
cursed" and  "The  Accursed  Honca,"  yet  in  the  local  parlance 
there  is  a  difference  implied.  And  if  you  will  substitute  for 
"Accursed"  the  old  stage-drivers*  favorite  equivalent — begin- 
ning and  ending  with  a  "d" — you  will  easily  catch  the  distinc- 
tion. When  the  participle  precedes  the  noun  the  imprecation  is 
a  personal  one  prayed  for  or  pronounced  on  its  object  by  the 
party  speaking.  But  when  the  participle  follows  the  noun  it 
is  rather  the  reiteration  of  a  curse  already  pronounced  by  a 
higher  authority. 

Having  this  in  mind,  I  asked  of  Juan  why  it  was  that  he 
designated  the  shrub  as  "Accursed." 

"Has  the  Senor  never  heard  ?"  was  the  surprised  answer. 

I  told  him  that  I  had  not. 

"Then  it  must  be  that  the  Protestants  do  not  have  the  same 
Bible  that  we  Catholics  have.  Or  it  may  be  that  the  Senor 
has  never  had  his  Padre  to  tell  him  the  story  of  how  the  wicked 
Jews  crucified  Christ." 

"Yes,  I  have  heard  the  story,  but  what  has  it  to  do  with  the 
Honca  Bush?" 

"That  will  I  now  tell  to  the  Senor  in  my  own  way,  as  I  have 
heard  it  from  my  Padre,  with  maybe  a  little  more  as  I  have 
heard  it  told  among  us  by  the  campfire. 

"You  must  know  that  long  ago  the  Jews  had  Christ  among 
them.  They  wanted  a  king  among  them  who  would  take  them 
out  to  battle,  and  who  would  place  his  foot  on  the  neck  of 
every  nation  on  earth,  and  they  believed  that  their  old  Books 
had  promised  them  such  a  king.  Christ  claimed  to  be  their 
Promised  King,  and  they  saw  that  he  did  have  great  power. 
But  he  taught  them  that  they  should  not  go  to  war ;  that  were 
a  man  to  be  struck  on  the  right  cheek,  he  should  offer  the  left 
to  be  struck  in  the  same  way.  This  kind  of  teaching  would 
never  bring  the  King  of  the  Jews  to  place  his  foot  on  the  necks 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  291 

of  every  people  on  earth,  and  they  came  to  consider  Christ  as 
an  evil  spirit — a  deceiver — who  plotted  evil  to  them.  Then 
they  planned  to  kill  him. 

"Now  when  the  Jews  had  gotten  Pilate  to  deliver  Jesus  into 
their  hands  that  they  might  crucify  him,  they  set  about  to  mock 
him  as  they  led  him  to  his  death.  On  the  way  (Via  Crucis) 
they  passed  a  goodly  thorn  tree.  This  they  cut  down  and  of  its 
trunk  they  made  the  Cross  on  which  to  crucify  him,  while  of 
its  branches  they  made  a  crown  of  thorns,  and  set  it  on  his  head 
to  make  sport  of  his  Kingship.  And  so  they  went  on  scoffing 
and  reviling  at  him,  while  the  blood  dripped  out  of  the  broken 
and  bruised  ends  of  the  thorn  tree. 

"This  thorn  tree,  Sefior,  was  the  Honca  bush,  and  for  its 
part  in  the  sin  of  that  day  it  stands  accursed  for  all  time.  Like 
the  Wandering  Jew,  it  can  never  lay  down  its  burden,  but  must 
go  to  the  end  of  time  accursed  and  hated  by  beast  and  man. 
From  a  tree  it  withered  and  shrank,  blasted  to  a  shrub ;  leaf 
nevermore  grew  on  it  to  shelter  its  trunk  from  the  fierce  rays 
of  the  sun.  The  sap  in  it  ran  out  on  that  evil  day,  and  there  was 
left  to  feed  it  only  a  foul  poisonous  oil.  Because  its  thorns  had 
pressed  as  lightly  as  they  could  on  that  sacred  brow  there  was 
given  it  to  bear  a  tiny  blossom  and  to  ripen  a  very  small  berry. 
But  no  bee  hunts  that  flower,  and  only  a  dark  brown  moth,  by 
night  and  in  stealth,  visits  it  in  shame  and  penance.  No  bird 
or  insect  tastes  that  berry,  and  it  is  left  to  wither  on  that  hated 
stem  until  the  angry  winter  winds  blow  it  away  to  be  hidden  in 
the  merciful  dust. 

"The  chonte*  never  sings  from  its  branches,  nor  does  the 
mariposa10  sip  from  its  flower.  The  liebre11  never  sits  in 
its  shade,  nor  does  the  codorniz12  take  to  its  covert  when 
pressed  by  the  hawk.  The  spotted  thrush  does  not  build 
its  nest  in  its  limbs,  though  the  snake  never  climbs  the  naked 
trunk  nor  does  the  hawk  dart  on  its  outskirts.  The  Hormiga™ 

9  Chonte.  The  mocking  bird.  Name  probably  a  corruption,  of  "Sinionte" 
from  the  Aztecs. 

*°  Mariposa.    Butterfly. 

u  Liebre.  Jackrabbit.  Derived  from  the  Latin  "Lepus." 
18  Codorniz.  The  Blue  Quail.  From  the  Latin  "Coturnix." 
u  Hormiga.  The  Ant. 


292  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

hunts  the  little  green  bug14  in  the  tops  of  shrubs  and  weeds, 
and  your  wise  Doctor  has  told  us  that  it  milks  the  bug,  as 
we  milk  the  goat,  and  lives  on  it.  It  may  be  that  the  wise  man 
was  making  sport  of  us,  for  he  might  as  well  tell  me  that  I 
could  live  on  the  milk  of  a  cone  jo;15  and  the  little  green  bug 
could  not  live  on  the  juiceless  ends  of  the  honca  thorns ;  or  if 
it  could  even  do  so,  no  ant  ctfuld  live  on  it.  So  the  ant  never 
climbs  the  honca,  nor  makes  its  home  near  its  roots. 

"Never  in  social  union  lives  the  honca.  The  tecumblate19 
grows  in  great  clusters,  bush  and  bush  side  by  side,  with 
branches  embracing  in  brotherly  love.  The  gatun  plants  its 
roots  near  to  its  kin,  and  rejoices  in  the  fragrant  bloom  of  its 
neighbor.  But  the  honca  lives  an  outcast,  solitary  and  alone, 
shunning  its  own  kin  and  hated  by  all  plants.  The  tasajillo 
nestles  under  the  hoja-senf  and  may  be  found  even  under  the 
verba-he dionda17,  but  it  never  thrusts  its  thorn  into  a  passer-by 
from  the  shadow  of  the  honca.  The  tasajo  loves  the  shade  and 
seeks  for  protection  to  its  papa18  among  the  thick  roots  of  the 
gatun,  the  mesquite  or  the  hoja-sen,  but  never  will  you  find  its 
buried  treasure  guarded  under  the  honca. 

"No  wayfarer  will  use  the  honca  for  fire  unless  in  evil  plight, 
for  its  hateful  odor  and  dire  smoke  carry  its  curse.  It  burns 
with  a  fierce  and  brilliant  light,  but  the  curse  goes  into  the 
torch  as  well. 

"So,  living  or  dead,  the  honca  is  shunned  by  all.  When  life 
departs  from  the  leafless  limbs  it  goes  so  steadily  and  shame- 
facedly that  no  one  knows  when  it  has  escaped  its  rider.  For 
years  the  bare  dead  limbs  will  steadily  but  hopelessly  face  the 
winter  storms  and  summer  heat,  disappearing  piece  by  piece  no 
one  knows  how  or  when,  until  at  last  there  only  stands  the 
bare  trunk.  When  finally  the  withered  trunk  lies  on  the 

14  Green  Bug.    The  Aphis. 

16  Conejo.  The  Cotton-Tail  Rabbit.  Like  the  English  "coney,"  this  word 
originally  comes  from  the  Latin  "cuniculus." 

»•  Tecumblate.  A  shrub  growing  in  clusters  and  bearing  a  black  berry 
with  very  little  pulp.  Name  supposed  to  be  of  Indian  origin. 

1T  Yerba  Hedionda.  Literally  "Stink  Plant."  Leaves  of  this  plant  have 
a  very  acrid  disagreeable  odor,  so  that  it  is  sometimes  designated  by  Americans 
as  "Creasote  Bush  ;"  Larrea  Mexicana. 

18  Papa.  This  is  the  usual  term  by  which  the  Mexicans  designate  the  Irish 
potato,  but  is  also  in  common  use  for  bulbous  roots  of  any  kind. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  293 

ground  it  is  not  given  the  burial  that  comes  to  all  plants  in  the 
grace  of  God.  For  plants,  like  men,  have  their  friends  who 
see  that  they  have  burial  after  death.  The  little  blind  hormiga 
blanca19  kindly  feels  its  way  in  darkness  to  the  fallen  bodies  of 
the  giants  of  his  home,  and  patiently  working  day  and  night 
little  by  little  covers  the  dead  with  earth.  But  it  never  covers 
the  body  of  the  honca  in  decent  burial,  but  lets  it  wither  and 
char  in  sun  and  storm,  until  finally,  how  or  when  no  one  knows, 
there  is  no  more  any  sign  of  the  accursed  shrub.  Perhaps  it 
has  gone  to  feed  the  fires  of  Hell.  Quien  sabe  I" 

At  another  time,  we  had  camped  for  the  night  by  the  side 
of  a  rock  cliff,  which  presented  to  us  a  front  as  regular  as  that 
of  a  wall  laid  in  Flemish  Bond.  Our  nightly  campfire  had 
dwindled  down  to  one  or  two  sticks,  and  the  flickering  light 
therefrom  threw  the  shadow  of  an  "aigrita"  bush  on  the  wall 
in  a  sort  of  fantastic  resemblance  to  a  dancing  human  being,  or 
human  jumping- jack.  To  our  comrades,  given  to  dolorous 
memories,  it  suggested  recollections  of  the  convulsive  move- 
ments of  a  man  dying  under  the  hangman's  care.  This  in  turn 
suggested  to  someone  the  "Juez  de  Cordado,"  of  the  other  side 
of  the  river — the  Rio  Grande — whose  name  and  whose  sum- 
mary power  of  administering  death  without  trial  or  hearing, 
hinted  strongly  to  us  of  a  "cord"  or  "rope." 

After  some  discussion,  I  asked,  "Natividad,  what  is  the 
name  of  the  present  Juez  de  Cordado  at  San  Carlos,  Mexico  ?" 
San  Carlos  was  a  town  lying  some  sixty  miles  away. 

"They  haven't  any,  Sefior,"  he  replied.  "They  have  not 
had  any  since  I  caught  the  last  one." 

There  was  plainly  a  story  behind  this,  a  story  in  which 
Natividad  delighted,  if  one  could  judge  from  the  wrinkles  about 
the  big  mouth  and  the  dancing  of  the  little  black  eyes.  "The 
Sefior  must  know  that  I  keep  very  closely  to  the  American  side 
of  the  river,  and  even  when  the  General  Naranjo  was  about 
to  sell  his  land  over  the  river,  and  was  carrying  around  that  lot 
of  Kickapoo  Indians  to  show  them  the  land,  and  sent  for  me 
to  come  over  and  show  the  corners,  and  sent  word  to  me  by  his 

"Hormiga  Blanca.     Termite.     See  note  2. 


294  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

messenger  that  I  would  be  safe  for  he  would  protect  me,  yet  I 
did  not  go  over.  Now,  Senor,  I  was  born  in  that  land;  the 
amigos  of  my  youth  are  scattered  over  it ;  and  I  could  not  find 
a  house  over  there,  save  one,  where  I  would  not  be  welcomed 
to  eat  and  smoke.  I  know  those  terreanos  as  a  bird  knows  the 
chapparro  prieto,  in  which  its  nest  is  built.  And  it  comes  about 
that  I  do  not  go  there  now,  just  because  I  knew  it  so  well  in 
my  time. 

"The  Sefiores  must  know  that  the  line  between  the  states 
of  Chihuahua  and  Coahuila  runs  into  the  Rio  Grande  at  the 
Paso  del  Chisos,  which  the  Comanches  used  in  the  times  long 
ago, — when  they  came  into  Mexico  in  the  old  days  to  rob  and 
kill.  They  came  in  by  Lajitas  and  Santa  Helena.  I  was  then 
a  boy  at  San  Carlos  and  many  a  time  I  have  seen  them.  There 
was  old  Tave  Pete,  the  old  woman  captain, — so  old  that  when 
she  rode,  she  had  to  have  a  thick  woolen  cord  tied  around  her 
throat  to  keep  her  jaws  from  clattering  together.  Often  have 
I  heard  her  call  out  her  commands  to  her  people  from  the 
belfry  in  the  church,  in  front  of  the  plazita  in  San  Carlos,  and 
have  seen  the  warriors  disperse  to  do  her  commands.  There  I 
saw  the  two  pelones,  her  sons,  so  called  by  our  people  because 
they  cut  their  hair  short,  instead  of  wearing  a  long  scalp-lock 
like  the  other  Indians.  There  have  I  seen  Mauwe  and  Tave 
Tuk  contend  to  see  which  could  shoot  the  strongest  arrow.  Ah ! 
Tave  Tuk  was  a  man!  We  called  him  Baja  el  Sol, — which 
means  'Under  the  Sun/  and  he  made  his  boast  that  there  was 
no  man  like  him  for  courage  under  the  sun.  I  have  since  heard 
that  he  died  in  the  Sierra  Del  Carmen,  fighting  the  Apaches 
single-handed. 

"Now  these  Comanches  came  into  Mexico  by  San  Carlos, 
in  September  of  each  year.  They  robbed  and  plundered  until 
they  were  ready  to  go  back.  By  this  time  they  had  captives, 
horses,  mules,  and  even  cattle,  to  carry  back  in  great  numbers, 
so  they  had  to  travel  slowly.  Now  to  return  by  their  pass  at 
the  Lajitas  was  to  bring  them  within  forty  miles  of  the  soldiers 
at  Presidio  del  Norte,  and,  as  they  did  not  wish  to  have  the 
soldiers  to  follow  them,  they  took  to  crossing  the  river  further 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  295 

east,  and  forty  miles  further  away  from  the  soldiers,  and  thus 
returned  along  the  east  side  of  the  Chisos  Mountains.  This 
pass  came  to  be  known  as  the  Paso  del  Chisos.  I  saw  it  after 
I  was  a  grown  man,  and  at  that  time  the  trail  leading  to  and 
from  the  ford  was  a  great  wide  trail,  covered  with  the  bones  of 
animals  in  great  number.  I  would  have  thought  then  that  the 
trail  could  have  been  followed  by  the  line  of  bones  for  a  thou- 
sand years  to  come.  Well,  the  Comanches  ceased  to  come,  and 
our  horses  and  cattle  rejoiced  once  more.  And  in  time  those 
who  knew  the  Comanches  and  their  ways  died  off  until  now 
there  are  few  of  us  living  who  ever  saw  a  Comanche  ride  into 
San  Carlos,  with  his  chimal  on  his  arm  and  his  spear  across  his 
horse.  During  this  time  the  bones  along  the  old  trail  to  the 
Paso  del  Chisos  began  to  disappear.  None  knew  how.  Some 
said  the  wind  covered  them  with  dust,  and  the  rain  washed  them 
into  holes.  Others  said  the  wind  ate  them  as  we  eat  bread; 
that  the  bones  flaked  into  little  thin  pieces,  and  the  little  whirl- 
winds that  came  dancing  over  the  country  in  the  spring  picked 
them  up  and  ground  them  into  the  air.  I  do  not  know  how  this 
is,  Senor,  but  the  bones  disappeared  long  ago  so  that  there  was 
nothing  to  mark  the  spot  where  the  trail  crossed  the  river  at 
the  Paso  del  Chisos.  But  there  were  still  a  few  of  us  who 
knew  where  the  old  pass  had  been. 

"Some  thirty  years  ago  a  surveyor  came  down  to  our  country 
who  had  some  surveying  to  do,  and  who  had  to  commence  at 
the  Paso  del  Chisos,  as  his  work  was  to  lay  entirely  inside  of 
one  of  the  states  and  he  could  not  cross  into  the  other.  So  he 
wanted  some  one  with  him  who  knew  where  the  Paso  lay,  and 
in  this  way  I  came  to  go  with  him.  I  carried  the  flag  for  him 
and  we  commenced  our  work  at  the  Pass.  The  work  was  fin- 
ished, the  surveyor  went  away,  and  many  years  passed. 

"Several  years  ago  a  dispute  came  up  between  General 
Naranjo  and  Don  Celso  Gonzales,  as  to  the  real  place  of  the 
Paso  del  Chisos.  Celso  Gonzales  had  a  grant  from  the  State 
of  Chihuahua  which  called  to  begin  at  the  Pass  and  to  lay  up 
the  river  towards  the  Canon  Angulo.  General  Naranjo  had  a 
grant  from  the  State  of  Coahuila  which  called  to  begin  at  the 


296  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Pass  and  to  lay  down  the  river  many  leagues.  Each  had  a 
pass  on  the  river  which  he  called  the  Paso  del  Chisos.  But 
General  Naranjo  said  that  the  Pass  claimed  by  Celso  Gonzales 
to  be  the  Paso  del  Chisos  was  too  far  down  the  river.  Celso 
Gonzales  said  that  the  Pass  set  up  by  General  Naranjo  was  too 
far  up  the  river.  Each  of  them  said  that  the  other  was  claiming 
land  that  belonged  to  him,  and  so  they  were  about  to  go  to  the 
Courts  about  it. 

"Some  one  told  Gonzales  that  I  knew  where  the  Pass  was, 
so  he  sent  for  me.  Now  it  so  happened  that  the  Pass  which  I 
knew  to  be  the  Paso  del  Chisos  was  the  Pass  claimed  by  Gen- 
eral Naranjo,  and  when  Celso  Gonzales  learned  this  he  was 
angry  with  me.  He  was  a  man  of  importance  on  his  side  of 
the  river,  was  on  close  terms  with  all  the  officials,  and  it  was 
not  good  to  have  him  angry  at  one. 

"I  lived  then  on  the  Texas  side  of  the  river  and  had  done 
so  for  many  years.  I  cultivated  a  little  farm  on  the  river  bank. 
One  day  after  this,  in  August,  while  I  was  at  work  in  my  field, 
several  men  rode  up  to  me  and  one  of  them,  Suniga,  told  me 
that  he  was  Juez  de  Cordado,  in  San  Carlos,  and  that  I  had  to 
go  with  him.  This  was  very  bad  news  to  me.  The  Juez  de 
Cordado  never  tried  men  at  all,  but  he  had  authority  from  the 
Mexican  Government  to  execute  men,  and  few  of  us  knew  how 
far  that  authority  went.  All  we  knew  was  that  when  he  wanted 
help  he  called  on  any  and  every  one  that  he  saw  fit  and  they 
had  to  go,  for  the  Government  said  so  in  his  papers.  But  be- 
sides this  if  any  one  refused  to  go,  he  did  not  know  but  that 
the  Juez  de  Cordado  might  call  for  him  to  stand  up  against  a 
wall.  Thus  it  was  that  every  one  had  a  great  respect  for  him, 
and  when  he  asked  any  one  to  go  with  him,  he  went,  and  when 
he  commanded  his  helpers  to  hang  or  shoot  any  one,  they 
obeyed  orders. 

"I  was  unarmed  and  helpless,  so  they  bound  me  and  took 
me  over  the  river  into  Mexico.  I  said  good-bye  to  my  family, 
for  I  never  expected  to  see  them  again.  I  was  carried  to 
Ojinaga,  a  long  way  it  seemed  to  me,  and  put  into  prison.  Here, 
as  I  learned  after  a  time,  the  Juez  de  Cordado  claimed  that 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  297 

my  name  was  on  the  book  of  the  Juez  Primero,  as  one  charged 
with  theft  and  that  if  that  were  true,  he  had  the  right  to  exe- 
cute me.  So  it  must  have  been  that  the  Juez  de  Cordado  had 
to  find  one  already  charged  with  some  offence  before  he  had 
the  right  to  execute  him.  But  I  had  never  stolen  from  any 
one,  and  they  did  not  find  on  that  book  anything  complained  of 
against  me.  If  they  had  my  family  would  never  have  known 
what  became  of  me.  So  I  went  free  and  very  hungry. 

"Now  it  was  in  November  after  the  August  when  I  was 
taken  prisoner  that  I  was  peddling  up  and  down  the  river  and 
I  came  near  to  Martin  Solis'  place  with  two  of  my  friends.  We 
came  first  to  a  wagon  on  the  road  side  and  inquiring  whose  it 
was,  we  were  told  it  was  Suniga's,  and  that  Suniga  was  then 
riding  to  a  house  near  by  to  get  his  coat.  After  we  rode  by 
the  wagon,  my  friend,  Juan,  said  to  me  that  here  was  a  chance 
to  catch  Suniga,  and  that  it  was  my  duty  to  do  so ;  that  he  had 
been  already  put  on  the  Judge's  book  at  Alpine  for  carrying  me 
over  the  river,  so  that  I  had  the  right  to  arrest  him.  But  I  was 
unarmed  and  said  so.  'No  matter/  said  Juan,  'Elijio  and  I  are 
armed  with  rifles,  and  we  are  your  friends  and  if  you  will  call 
on  us  to  help  you,  we  will  arrest  him.'  With  that  we  hurried 
off  towards  Solis'  house,  on  the  way  Suniga  went,  and  caught 
up  with  him  just  before  he  got  to  the  house.  As  I  was  un- 
armed, I  passed  him,  going  towards  the  house,  while  my  friends 
stopped  to  talk  to  him.  Before  getting  to  the  house,  I  turned 
around  and  saw  Suniga  fall  off  his  horse,  while  Juan  and  Elijio 
had  their  guns  drawn  on  him,  and  then  I  turned  back  to  help 
bind  him.  He  called  on  us  to  know  why  we  had  done  this.  I 
answered  that  I  would  show  him  the  papers,  but  he  said  he 
knew  now  and  that  I  need  not  show  the  papers. 

"Well,  then  we  got  what  provisions  we  could  and  started  to 
the  Pulvo,  which  was  sixty  miles  away.  It  was  a  long,  hard 
journey  over  the  mountains.  We  had  only  four  almudas  of 
corn  and  one  pint  of  flour,  and  there  were  four  of  us,  so  we 
didn't  eat  much  parched  corn  at  a  meal.  Suniga  complained 
when  we  camped  to  eat  near  the  Mesa  Prieta,  where  the  big 
mines  of  Asoge  now  are,  and  the  corn  was  not  well  parched 


298  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

nor  was  there  much  of  it.  But  I  said  to  him  that  he  must  not 
complain  of  the  parched  corn,  for  it  was  the  best  I  could  do  for 
him,  and  that  it  was  much  better  than  Suniga  had  done  for  me 
when  he  took  me  to  Ojinaga,  for  that  he  had  given  me  nothing 
and  I  had  to  depend  on  charity  on  the  road  or  starve ;  and  that 
after  getting  to  Ojinaga,  I  had  been  put  in  jail  and  given  a 
medio  (Mexican  money  6  cents)  a  day  to  feed  myself  on;  that 
I  had  not  forgotten.  But  Suniga  made  no  more  complaint,  for 
he  was  afraid  we  were  going  to  kill  him  and  he  was  only  too 
glad  to  live  on  parched  corn,  even  if  the  grains  were  few  and 
raw. 

"Now  we  got  to  the  Pulvo  and  turned  Suniga  over  to  Don 
Juan  Humphreys,  who  was  Deputy  Sheriff.  It  so  happened 
that  Don  Juan's  son  was  then  over  the  river  in  Mulatto,  and 
when  the  Alcalde  of  Mulatto,  who  was  a  brother  to  Suniga, 
heard  that  Don  Juan  had  Suniga  under  arrest,  he  arrested  Don 
Juan's  son  and  put  him  in  prison.  Don  Juan  hearing  of  this 
went  over  to  Mulatto,  and  the  Alcalde  put  him  in  jail,  too. 
But  finally  they  both  got  out  and  we  went  up  with  Suniga  to 
Alpine,  where  Suniga  was  tried. 

"Now  it  so  turned  out  that  Jesus  Ralles,  who  now  lives 
over  yonder  on  the  Terlingua,  was  sent  to  the  penitentiary  at 
the  same  time,  and  he  says  that  Suniga  was  sulky  and  mad  and 
obstinate,  until  one  day,  after  a  prisoner  had  been  tied  up  and 
whipped  with  a  lash  on  the  bare  back,  the  Major  Domo  called 
him  up  and  told  him  that  if  he  did  not  behave  he  too  would 
be  whipped  in  the  same  way.  After  this  he  gave  no  trouble,  for 
he  felt  I  think  as  he  did  about  the  parched  corn,  that  he  would 
be  satisfied  if  he  fared  no  worse.  After  he  served  his  term 
out,  he  came  back  and  now  lives  over  the  river. 

"In  this  way,  it  happens,  Sefior,  that  they  have  no  Juez  de 
Cordado  in  San  Carlos,  for  they  never  appointed  any  after 
Suniga  was  arrested.  In  this  way,  too,  it  happens,  Sefior,  that 
I  never  go  over  the  river  into  Mexico  now,  even  if  General 
Naranjo  sends  for  me,  because  Suniga  lives  over  there. 

"They  told  me  that  Sumga's  avocado  told  the  Judge  that  the 
law  was  meant  for  men  who  stole  children,  not  men — (I  think 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  299 

Americanos  call  it  kidnapping) — that  Sufiiga  stole  a  grown  man, 
old  and  fat.  But  the  Judge  said  that  a  Mexican  unarmed  was 
no  better  than  a  baby  before  three  armed  men — which  seemed 
good  law  to  me. 

"So  after  much  talk  in  a  big  room  with  many  people,  the 
Judge — Gracios  a  Dios! — told  Sufiiga  that  he  must  go  to  the 
penitentiary  for  two  years.  And,  Gracios  a  Dios,  he  went !" 


300  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

Up  to  1887,  Presidio  was  the  largest  county  in  Texas.  It 
then  comprised  what  are  now  the  counties  of  Presidio,  Jeff 
Davis,  and  Brewster.  In  the  winter  of  1884,  the  people  of  the 
section  around  what  is  now  the  town  of  Alpine,  made  an  attempt 
to  have  a  portion  of  old  Presidio  County  cut  off,  with  Murphys- 
ville  as  the  county  seat.  The  movement,  however,  met  with 
defeat,  and  Presidio  County  remained  intact  for  another  two 
years. 

When  the  next  State  Legislature  convened,  in  January, 
1887,  there  was  a  strong  lobby  on  hand  working  for  the  crea- 
tion of  a  new  county  out  of  Presidio  County.  The  bill  was 
favorably  reported  on  in  due  course,  and  on  February  2,  1887, 
Governor  Sul  Ross  signed  it,  with  the  emergency  clause.  The 
same  bill  provided  for  the  immediate  organization  of  a  county 
designated  as  Brewster  County.  It  provided  also  for  the  selec- 
tion, at  the  election  to  follow,  of  a  county  seat  and  a  full 
roster  of  county  officers. 

The  same  bill  provided  for  the  organization  of  the  county 
by  a  commission  empowered  to  divide  the  county  into  voting 
and  commissioners'  precincts,  to  designate  polling  places,  ap- 
point officers  of  election,  to  canvass  the  election  returns,  declare 
the  result  and  issue  certificates  of  election  to  the  successful 
candidates.  This  commission  consisted  of  Dr.  J.  D.  Gaddis, 
T.  S.  Brockenbrow,  and  C.  E.  Way.  Their  duties  and  powers 
were  identical  with  those  of  regularly  constituted  commission- 
ers' courts  as  the  law  at  that  time  provided. 

The  commissioners  lost  no  time  in  entering  upon  their  pre- 
scribed duties,  and  on  the  I4th  of  February,  1887,  the  first 
election  of  county  officers  was  held.  Murphysville  was  selected 
as  the  county  seat.  The  first  county  officers  were  Dr.  J.  E. 
Cummings,  county  judge;  J.  T.  Gillespie,  sheriff  and  tax  col- 
lector ;  Ed  Garnett,  treasurer ;  C.  E.  Way,  district  and  county 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  301 

clerk ;  W.  W.  Turney,  county  attorney ;  Tom  Newton,  assessor ; 
W.  B.  Hancock,  hide  and  animal  inspector.  The  board  of 
county  commissioners  consisted  of  J.  T.  Southwell,  John 
Rooney,  Lawrence  Haley,  and  Charles  Kellogg. 

The  law  creating  Brewster  County  also  created  out  of  the 
old  Presidio  County  territory  the  unorganized  counties  of  Jeff 
Davis,  Buchell,  and  Foley.  All  of  these  unorganized  counties 
were  attached  to  Brewster  County  for  judicial  purposes.  As 
soon  as  Brewster  County  was  in  shape  for  business,  Jeff  Davis 
promptly  presented  to  the  commissioners'  court  of  Brewster 
County  a  petition  asking  that  an  election  be  ordered  for  the 
organization  of  Jeff  Davis  County.  The  petition  was  granted. 
The  first  election  of  Jeff  Davis  County  followed.  The  returns 
were  canvassed  by  the  Brewster  County  Commissioners'  Court, 
the  result  declared,  certificates  of  election  issued,  and  the  suc- 
cessful candidates  were  duly  sworn  into  office.  Buchell  and 
Foley  counties  remained  unorganized  for  a  number  of  years ; 
later  both  of  them  were  abolished,  and  their  territory  included 
in  that  of  Brewster  County.  At  the  time  of  the  organization 
of  Brewster  County,  the  county  was  over  thirty  miles  in  width, 
beginning  a  few  miles  north  of  Alpine  and  running  to  the  Rio 
Grande,  more  than  100  miles  to  the  south. 

The  land  on  which  Murphysville  was  located  was  owned 
by  Hon.  D.  O.  Murphy,  then  of  Fort  Davis.  Murphy  laid  out 
the  town  site  into  lots  and  blocks,  streets  and  parks,  much  as 
it  is  to-day.  After  the  organization  of  Brewster  County,  the 
name  of  Murphysville  had  to  be  written  thousands  of  times  by 
the  various  county  officers  in  legal  blanks,  court  processes,  and 
in  other  legal  ways.  As  it  was  long  and  inconvenient  to  write, 
a  suggestion  was  made  that  it  be  changed.  No  slur  was  in- 
tended on  the  name,  nor  on  the  founder  of  the  town,  Mr. 
Murphy,  as  he  was  held  in  high  esteem.  It  further  was  de- 
cided to  incorporate  the  town,  and  in  the  petition,  asking  for 
an  election  for  that  purpose,  the  name  of  "Alpine,"  suggested 
by  the  late  Ed  Garnett  and  Walter  Garnett,  was  written  instead 
of  the  name  of  "Murphysville."  As  this  name  was  appropriate 
to  the  mountainous  nature  of  that  section,  it  was  easily  passed. 


302  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

In  1883,  Alpine  was  composed  of  seven  lumber  shacks,  one 
general  store,  and  two  saloons  and  dance  halls  combined.  The 
saloons  and  dance  halls  did  a  thriving  business,  as  this  was  an 
important  cattle  shipping  point.  This  was  during  the  time 
when  every  man  was  a  law  unto  himself,  and  carried  his  code 
with  him.  Gambling  was  open,  and  on  hot  summer  days  the 
tables  and  the  "layout"  were  placed  on  the  front  verandas  of 
the  saloons.  Sunday  afternoons  were  the  most  popular  after- 
noons of  the  week  at  the  saloons  and  dance  halls. 

The  old  cemetery  at  the  point  of  Twin  Mountains  was  first 
broken  for  the  body  of  Mike  Dersey,  who  was  killed  one  sum- 
mer's day  while  'in  a  poker  game.  His  slayer  was  arrested,  but 
later  escaped  from  the  old  "Bat  Cave"  at  Fort  Davis. 

Alpine  was  in  its  "wild  and  woolly"  state  during  this  time, 
and  excursions  from  the  East  always  stopped  long  enough  to 
give  the  passengers  a  chance  to  view  the  sights.  Most  of  the 
passengers  were  persons  who  never  had  been  west  of  New 
York,  and  often  their  credulity  and  inquisitiveness  was  taxed 
to  the  breaking  point.  A  story  is  told  that  on  one  occasion 
just  before  the  train  departed,  one  of  the  passengers,  wearing 
slippers,  a  smoking  jacket,  and  a  monocle,  appeared  on  the  rear 
platform  of  the  last  Pullman.  One  of  the  cowboys,  seeing  him, 
quickly  dropped  his  rope  over  him,  and  drew  him  off  the  plat- 
form, whereupon  all  of  his  cowboy  companions  rushed  up 
shouting,  "I  saw  him  first!"  "What  is  it?"  "If  you  can  name 
it,  you  can  have  it,"  "It  is  mine,  I  roped  it  first,"  and  other 
similar  statements  that  were  hurled  at  the  head  of  the  scared 
and  helpless  prisoner.  The  westerners,  in  all  good  humor 
among  themselves,  then  began  to  quarrel  over  the  ownership  of 
the  passenger,  and  guns  were  brought  into  play  to  settle  the 
argument. 

The  train  had  gone  some  distance  by  this  time,  but  the 
conductor  was  implored  by  the  other  passengers  to  back  up  and 
recover  the  man.  When  it  did,  there  was  one  frightened  tourist 
who  scrambled  on  board,  vowing  never  to  return  to  the  Big 
Bend. 

Another  interesting  story  is  told  of  a  Kentucky  lad  who 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  303 

desired  some  excitement.  He  was  a  friend  of  the  Durants, 
who  owned  a  large  ranch  in  the  Big  Bend.  D.  G.  Knight,  fore- 
man of  the  round-up,  consented  to  take  the  youth  and  train 
him  up  as  a  cowboy  in  his  outfit  of  sixty  men  and  400  horses. 

It  appeared  that  the  young  man  was  a  devotee  of  social 
affairs,  and  he  immediately  started  to  criticise  the  cowboys 
for  their  lack  of  social  form.  His  criticisms  acted  only  as  a 
pleasant  irritant  to  his  companions,  who  were  always  ready  for 
a  little  fun,  and  who  decided  that  some  of  their  tricks  played 
on  the  boy  might  furnish  them  many  wholesome  laughs. 

The  first  thing  they  did  was  to  slip  the  clinches  off  the 
saddle  of  the  youth's  horse,  so  that  when  he  tried  to  head  a 
steer,  his  horse  stopped  quickly,  and  he  and  the  saddle  kept 
going.  This  the  lad  thought  was  an  accident.  They  had 
frightened  him  considerably  with  their  stories  of  the  Indians, 
and  one  night  they  decided  it  was  time  to  have  a  real  Indian 
fight  to  initiate  the  Kentucky  "tenderfoot."  They  started  by 
telling  him  of  all  the  narrow  escapes  they  had  encountered  in 
Indian  raids.  This  continued  until  bed-time,  and  when  the  lad 
retired,  the  boys  warned  him  to  be  prepared  for  an  attack  at 
any  time  during  the  night.  After  the  cowboys  had  bedded  for 
the  night,  ten  or  twelve  of  them  slipped  off  and  tied  bunches 
of  grass  on  their  heads,  at  the  same  time  taking  in  their  hands 
sotol  stalks  to  serve  as  lances. 

About  twelve  o'clock  the  boy  was  awakened  by  Knight, 
who  told  him  to  saddle  up  and  go  with  him  to  move  a  number 
of  staked  horses  closer  to  the  camp  in  order  to  protect  them 
from  the  Indians.  The  boy  was  frightened,  but  there  was 
nothing  for  him  to  do  but  obey  the  command.  No  sooner  had 
he  and  Knight  dismounted  and  begun  their  work  than  the 
pseudo-Indians  came  charging,  shooting,  and  yelling.  Knight 
fell  as  if  he  had  been  wounded,  and  shoute<l  to  the  boy  to 
escape. 

The  youth  needed  no  second  bidding.  He  sprang  on  his 
horse,  stuck  spurs  to  the  animal,  and  galloped  madly  away.  He 
ran  so  fast  the  cowboys  could  not  overtake  him  and  explain 
the  joke.  He  continued  his  pace  for  sixty  miles,  reaching 


304  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Marfa  before  ten  o'clock  the  next  morning.  He  arrived  ex- 
hausted, and  told  the  citizens  of  the  Indian  attack,  stating  that 
he  was  the  only  one  to  escape.  When  he  discovered  that  a  joke 
had  been  played  on  him,  he  returned  to  Kentucky. 

In  1890,  the  mining  town  of  Shafter  experienced  consider- 
able trouble  with  a  Mexican  who  had  come  there  to  live.  The 
Mexican  was  exceedingly  vicious  and  did  everything  in  his 
power  to  start  trouble  with  the  men  at  the  mine.  On  several 
occasions,  he  laid  plots  and  schemes  to  catch  off  guard  certain 
of  the  officers  who  had  been  instrumental  in  capturing  some 
murderers  a  short  time  before.  One  day,  loading  himself  with 
mescal,  he  mounted  a  horse  and  went  tearing  through  the  camp, 
insulting  everyone.  Riding  up  to  the  jacal  of  an  old  Mexican 
woman,  he  insulted  her.  When  she  ordered  him  away,  he  dis- 
mounted, took  up  a  four-foot  club,  and  beat  the  woman  over 
the  head  with  it,  causing  an  ugly  wound  in  the  skull,  and 
breaking  her  arm. 

Indignation  ran  high  against  the  Mexican.  It  was  thought 
the  woman  would  die,  and  he  was  arrested  and  chained  to  a 
tree,  there  being  no  jail  at  Shafter.  Authorities  intended  to 
take  him  to  Marfa  the  next  day  and  place  him  in  jail,  but  he 
was  taken  out  in  the  night  and  shot  by  a  group  of  angry  citizens, 
whose  identity  remained  unknown. 

From  that  time,  a  feeling  existed  between  the  Mexicans 
and  the  Americans,  as  it  was  supposed  by  many  that  it  was 
Americans  who  did  the  lynching.  Following  this,  several 
American  miners  were  notified  in  anonymous  writing  to  leave 
the  country.  As  the  Mexicans  far  outnumbered  the  Ameri- 
cans, the  danger  was  imminent  and  the  Americans  immediately 
set  about  to  make  the  place  safer  for  themselves. 

In  the  meantime,  on  a  certain  Sunday  night,  the  Mexicans 
were  having  a  sort  of  bailie  dance.  The  festivity  was  taking 
place  in  the  Mexican  quarter  of  the  town,  and  about  two  o'clock 
in  the  morning  the  participants  grew  hilarious  and  began  to 
shoot.  Many  families  of  white  people  living  near  grew 
alarmed  and  summoned  the  officers.  Two  of  them,  Ben  Bowers 
and  James  Deck,  visited  the  Mexican  quarter  and  ordered  the 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  305 

shooting  to  cease,  whereupon  the  officers  were  told  to  get  out, 
the  Mexicans  implying  if  they  did  not  they  would  be  shot.  The 
officers  were  shown  the  muzzle  ends  of  so  many  six-shooters 
that  they  left  the  place  and  went  back  to  the  center  of  town 
and  collected  a  crowd,  including  Texas  rangers  Gravis,  W.  W. 
Jones,  and  Ike  Lee.  They  started  again  for  the  Mexican 
quarter,  where  the  inhabitants  were  still  fighting  and  shooting. 
As  the  Americans  approached  they  were  suddenly  fired  upon, 
evidently  by  ten  or  twelve  men  hidden  in  a  clump  of  trees 
and  behind  a  pile  of  adobe  huts.  Graves  was  instantly  killed 
and  Lee  was  badly  shot  in  the  wrist. 

The  firing  then  became  general,  and  was  continued  for  some 
time.  The  Mexicans  easily  had  the  advantage,  as  they  fired 
from  behind  their  houses  and  from  clumps  of  trees.  At  day- 
light reinforcements  arrived  from  the  mines,  and  about  forty 
rangers  and  miners  were  on  the  ground.  The  rangers  sur- 
rounded the  quarter  and  sent  word  to  the  Mexicans  that  if 
they  wished  to  continue  the  fight  to  send  their  women  and 
children  away,  and  if  not,  to  surrender,  or  the  entire  quarter 
would  be  blown  up  with  dynamite.  The  Mexicans  surrendered 
quickly,  and  the  Americans  disarmed  them.  The  Mexican 
who  had  shot  Gravis  attempted  to  escape  and  gave  his  pursuers 
a  hard  fight.  He  shot  at  them  every  time  there  was  a  chance, 
and  was  only  captured  after  he  was  entirely  surrounded. 

Following  this  outbreak  of  the  Mexicans  it  became  neces- 
sary for  rangers  to  be  established  near  Shafter  to  guard  the 
mine,  as  there  was  uneasiness  among  the  Americans  that  sim- 
ilar outbreaks  might  occur  at  any  time.  Petitions  were  forth- 
with sent  to  Governor  Ross,  seeking  for  better  protection  in 
Presidio  County,  which  resulted  in  a  much  larger  force  of 
rangers  under  the  command  of  Captain  Frank  Jones  being  sent 
to  Shafter  to  guard  the  county. 

A  famous  murder  occurred  in  the  Big  Bend,  in  1890,  re- 
sulting from  a  quarrel  over  a  young  maverick.  The  maverick 
was  claimed  by  both  H.  H.  Poe  and  Fine  Gilliland.  It  was 
near  Leoncita  that  Gilliland  was  driving  off  the  calf,  which  he 
claimed  as  his  own.  Poe  disputed  the  ownership,  and  shot  at 


306  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

the  young  steer,  whereupon  Gilliland  turned  upon  Poe  and 
met  him  with  a  six-shooter.  Poe  was  one-armed,  and  attempted 
to  hold  his  horse  and  pistol  with  the  same  hand.  The  two  men 
began  shooting,  and  Poe's  shot  went  wild,  with  his  horse  rearing 
and  jerking.  Gilliland's  shot  struck  home. 

The  murderer  fled  to  the  Glass  Mountains,  where  he  re- 
mained in  hiding  for  some  time,  and  where  he  was  unsuccess- 
fully pursued  by  the  rangers  under  Captain  Frank  Jones.  De- 
spite their  quick  chase,  Gilliland  eluded  them  and  escaped. 

Shortly  after  this,  T.  T.  Cook,  a  noted  peace  officer,  accom- 
panied by  John  Putman,  of  Marf a,  left  Marathon  on  a  scouting 
trip  for  Stockton,  concluding  to  go  by  way  of  the  Glass  Moun- 
tains with  the  hopes  of  tracing  Gilliland.  Riding  in  the  wind- 
swept mountains,  among  the  desolate  crags,  they  spied  a  lone 
horseman  approaching.  Neither  Cook  nor  Putman  knew  Gil- 
liland, but  the  fugitive  knew  the  peace  officer  by  sight.  The 
three  met  in  a  precipitous  canyon,  and  on  passing  Putman, 
Gilliland  spoke  in  a  friendly  manner.  When  he  approached 
Cook,  however,  he  opened  fire  and  hit  the  officer  in  the  knee 
cap,  at  the  same  time  killing  his  horse.  Cook  fell  with  his 
horse,  but  called  quickly  to  his  companion  to  kill  his  opponent's 
horse.  Putman  was  a  good  shot,  and  at  his  first  aim  Gilliland's 
horse  fell.  Gilliland  then  opened  fire  on  Cook,  who  was  lying 
behind  his  dead  horse,  with  one  leg  pinned  under  the  animal. 
With  all  of  his  strength,  and  with  the  assistance  of  Putman, 
Cook  returned  fire,  and  when  the  smoke  of  the  battle  cleared 
away  Gilliland  was  lying  dead  beside  his  horse. 

The  steer  over  which  the  murder  was  caused  was  later 
branded  by  a  number  of  cowboys,  and  the  brand  that  it  bore 
was  "murder."  The  maverick  was  then  turned  loose  and 
allowed  to  wander  at  large.  Legend  has  it  that  the  hair  of  the 
maverick  later  turned  gray. 

Shortly  after  Gilliland's  death,  his  nephew,  Jeff  Webb,  boss 
of  the  D.  &  W.  ranch,  was  murdered.  This  story  is  also  con- 
nected with  that  of  the  steer  branded  "murder."  One  evening 
Webb  became  drunk  and  stole  a  pet  bear  from  a  corral  where 
his  horse  was  tied,  and  when  dusk  fell  started  for  his  camp 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  307 

north  of  Alpine,  with  the  bear  in  front  of  him,  on  his  saddle. 
When  he  was  two  miles  north  of  Alpine  the  rain  began  to  fall 
in  torrents,  and  out  of  the  night  came  a  shot  that  told  the  story 
of  another  murder. 

Several  persons  were  arrested  for  the  murder  of  Webb, 
but  all  were  found  to  be  innocent.  Sam  Taylor  was  the  last 
person  seen  with  the  murdered  man  on  that  rainy  night,  but 
he,  too,  was  cleared  of  all  suspicion.  But  it  was  decreed  that 
he  was  to  pay  in  the  end  for  the  folly  of  some  one  else ;  as  a 
Spanish  proverb  has  it,  "Nuos  la  hacen  y  otros  Id  pegan" — 
Some  do  it  and  others  pay  for  it. 

One  night  he  was  engaged  in  a  poker  game  at  a  gambling 
house  in  Alpine,  when  again,  out  of  the  night,  a  shot  was  fired 
through  the  window,  followed  quickly  by  a  second.  Taylor 
leaned  gently  forward  over  his  hand,  which  held  five  cards.  He 
was  dead.  When  his  body  was  examined  it  was  found  that  he 
held  clinched  tightly  in  his  fingers  a  pair  of  aces  and  a  pair 
of  eights.  From  this  came  the  origin  of  the  card  term,  "dead 
man's  hand." 

Later  the  truth  was  revealed  about  the  murder  of  Webb  by 
Victor  Ochoa,  a  notorious  "general"  who  had  joined  the  Chi- 
huahua revolution,  in  1894,  and  who  was  a  confederate  of 
Catrina  Garza,  of  the  lower  Rio  Grande,  in  an  attempt  to 
organize  a  revolution  for  Mexico.  Ochoa  was  captured  later 
by  Jim  Fulgim.  He  was  imprisoned  in  the  Reeves  County 
jail,  and  it  was  here  that  he  told  the  truth  concerning  Webb's 
murder. 

Ochoa  stated  that  on  the  same  stormy  night  that  Webb 
was  killed,  he  and  a  companion  were  riding  from  San  Angelo 
to  Presidio,  when  they  met  a  man  a  short  distance  north  of 
Alpine.  They  only  became  aware  of  his  presence  when  Webb's 
horse  bumped  into  the  horse  of  Ochoa's  companion.  The 
Mexican,  thinking  that  the  horseman  was  about  to  shoot,  fired 
and  started  to  escape. 

Hearing  a  cry,  however,  Ochoa  and  his  companion  turned 
back,  thinking  to  find  a  child.  What  they  found  was  a  pet  bear, 
whining  and  sitting  on  the  dead  man's  chest. 


308  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

But  the  Mexican  who  was  the  real  murderer  had  already 
made  his  escape  into  his  own  country. 

During  this  time,  and  up  until  1896,  the  vicinity  near  Alpine 
was  continually  being  raided  and  plundered  by  a  band  of 
robbers  who  always  were  adroit  enough  to  elude  the  law. 
Captain  J.  R.  Hughes,  of  the  rangers,  was  appealed  to,  and, 
together  with  a  number  of  his  command,  he  started  from 
Ysleta  to  Alpine  and  there  a  trail  was  started  and  followed. 
About  twenty  miles  north  of  Alpine  the  rangers  saw  indica- 
tions of  where  the  outlaws  had  camped.  It  was  obvious  that 
they  were  headed  for  the  McCutcheon  Ranch  in  quest  of  pro- 
visions and  cattle. 

The  rangers  followed  and  reached  the  McCutcheon  Ranch 
but  without  finding  any  trace  of  the  bandits.  Three  of  the 
party  were  sent  ahead  to  ascertain  whether  or  not  they  were 
on  the  right  trail.  While  going  through  the  hills,  the  men 
suddenly  came  upon  three  of  the  robbers.  They  opened  fire  on 
the  band,  which  caused  them  to  turn  quickly  back  behind  the 
hill.  The  pursuers  followed,  and  fired  a  few  more  shots,  but 
by  this  time  the  desperadoes  had  gone  beyond  their  range. 

It  would  have  been  folly  for  the  three  men  to  have  attempted 
the  capture  of  the  outlaws,  as  they  were  poorly  armed.  Two 
of  them,  consequently,  returned  to  the  McGutcheon  Ranch  for 
the  rangers,  while  the  other  remained  in  the  hills  to  keep  an  eye 
on  the  robbers,  who  made  it  interesting  for  the  lone  man  by 
approaching  him  afoot,  shooting  at  him  and  cursing  him.  But 
the  ranger  kept  well  out  of  their  range  until  he  was  joined  by 
his  comrades. 

A  battle  then  commenced,  and  the  officers  ordered  the  rob- 
bers to  surrender.  The  outlaws,  who  seemed  ready  for  a  fight, 
resisted,  with  the  result  that  two  of  them  were  killed.  The 
third  was  in  the  act  of  mounting  his  horse  to  escape,  and  could 
easily  have  been  killed  had  not  some  one  called  out  not  to  shoot, 
as  the  robber  was  mistaken  for  one  of  the  rangers.  Before 
the  mistake  could  be  rectified,  the  outlaw  was  going  at  full  speed 
on  a  good  horse,  and  the  bullets  sent  after  him  failed  to  stop 
him. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  309 

One  hot  midsummer  day  a  company  of  rangers,  under  the 
command  of  Captain  Hughes,  was  camped  in  the  lower  Big 
Bend,  a  wild  and  remote  region  covered  with  scant  desert  vege- 
tation, bordering  the  Rio  Grande.  The  rangers  had  been  on  a 
hunt  for  Mexican  cattle  thieves,  for  that  section  of  territory 
embracing  more  than  eighteen  thousand  square  miles  was  the 
rendezvous  of  many  desperate  outlaws,  murderers,  robbers, 
smugglers,  and  a  great  variety  of  other  criminals.  The  Big 
Bend  derived  its  name  from  the  peculiar  shape  formed  by  the 
tortuous  course  of  the  international  boundary  stream.  It  is 
one  hundred  miles  from  the  farthest  dip  of  the  river  to  the 
nearest  railroad  point.  It  was  the  scene  of  many  daring  ex- 
ploits of  the  rangers,  who  finally  succeeded  in  killing  or  cap- 
turing many  of  the  lawless  element. 

On  this  particular  day,  Captain  Hughes  and  his  men  were 
taking  a  few  hours'  rest  in  camp,  which  was  pitched  in  a  little 
thicket  of  scrubby  trees  on  Tortilla  Creek,  after  a  long  chase 
for  thieves  who  had  made  their  escape  by  crossing  into  Mexico. 
Knowing  that  they  were  in  the  heart  of  the  outlaw  infested 
country,  the  camp  had  been  picketed  to  prevent  an  unexpected 
attack. 

Suddenly,  a  horseman  rode  down  into  the  gulch  and  crossed 
over  to  the  camp.  He  was  a  messenger  from  Alpine,  eighty 
miles  to  the  north,  and  was  bearing  a  telegram  for  Captain 
Hughes,  which  said  that  a  Southern  Pacific  train  had  been 
held  up  and  robbed  near  Dryden.  Train  robbers  had  been 
creating  much  trouble  in  the  Big  Bend  for  some  time,  and 
Hughes  was  anxious  to  get  on  their  trail. 

He  ordered  his  men  to  get  ready,  and  as  there  was  neither 
tent  nor  chuck  wagon  to  hinder,  quickly  departed  from  the 
camping  place.  Rangers  were  wont  to  sleep  upon  the  ground 
with  their  saddles  for  pillows,  and  a  blanket  for  covering.  A 
small  cotton  sack  or  two  usually  carried  all  their  commissary 
supplies,  and  in  ten  minutes  the  men  were  in  their  saddles 
headed  across  a  trailless  country  in  the  direction  of  Dryden, 
150  miles  away.  By  daylight  the  next  morning  they  had  made 
sixty  miles  of  their  journey. 


310  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

The  fourth  day  after  they  had  broken  camp,  far  down  in 
the  Big  Bend,  the  rangers  came  in  sight  of  two  of  the  outlaws. 
In  their  haste  to  escape,  the  robbers  had  dropped  a  sack  of 
silver  coin.  The  shooting  began  as  soon  as  the  rangers  and 
fugitives  were  within  firing  distance.  One  of  the  robbers  was 
killed.  When  his  companion  saw  he  was  alone,  he  deliber- 
ately perched  himself  upon  a  rock  in  sight  of  the  rangers  and 
blew  out  his  brains. 

The  Big  Bend  saw  its  last  train  robber,  however,  with  the 
capture  of  R.  E.  Vandegriff.  He  had  attempted  a  train  rob- 
bery, assisted  by  two  other  men  named  Bird  and  Kutch.  The 
instigator  of  the  robbery,  however,  was  said  to  be  a  man  named 
Smith,  who  interviewed  the  three  men  while  they  were  working 
in  the  capacity  of  cowboys  on  the  Tom  Newman  Ranch.  Over- 
tures were  made  by  Smith  concerning  a  possible  robbery,  and 
as  there  was  no  opposition  the  four  worked  out  a  plan  which 
they  determined  to  complete.  Smith  was  to  board  the  train 
at  Kent,  a  station  on  the  Texas  Pacific  Railway,  on  the  north 
slope  of  the  Davis  Mountains,  and  compel  the  engineer  to  stop 
at  a  place  where  the  other  three  men  had  agreed  to  be  waiting, 
when  they  were  to  uncouple  the  express  and  go  ahead  with  it. 
Upon  arriving  at  the  place,  the  train  stopped  and  Vandegriff 
had  just  commenced  to  uncouple  the  express  car  when  the 
guards  began  to  fire.  They  were  so  close  upon  him  that  the 
flashes  from  their  guns  burnt  his  face.  Seeing  that  Bird  was 
shot,  Vandegriff  ran  to  his  horse,  sprang  on  his  back,  and  gal- 
loped across  the  prairie  to  Marfa.  There  he  took  the  train. 
He  had  no  ticket,  and  paid  the  conductor  in  cash.  He  tried  to 
act  in  a  cool,  composed  manner,  and  not  to  create  any  suspi- 
cions against  him,  but  no  sooner  had  the  train  arrived  at  Alpine 
than  he  was  arrested  by  Sheriff  J.  B.  Gillett.  Kutch  and  Bird 
had  been  arrested,  in  the  meantime,  and  placed  in  jail  at  Alpine. 
This  was  one  of  the  last  attempts  to  rob  a  train  in  the  Big  Bend. 

During  this  time,  the  Big  Bend  was  infested  with  several 
notorious  Mexican  bandits  who  crossed  the  line  at  will,  for  the 
purpose  of  stealing  cattle.  The  raids  were  made  so  rapidly 
that  the  people  in  the  different  vicinities  began  to  demand  a 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  311 

strong  river  guard  to  protect  their  cattle.  A  notorious  outlaw 
and  cattle  thief,  Coo-Coo  Torres,  was  one  of  the  most  daring 
of  the  Mexican  bandits.  He  operated  with  an  equally  daring 
partner,  Eledio  Sanchez  Aramos,  one  of  them  staying  on  the 
Mexican  side  and  one  on  the  American  side.  Aramos  had  a 
small  ranch,  on  the  Mexican  side,  where  cattle  stolen  by  Coo- 
Coo,  on  the  American  side,  were  taken  and  concealed.  In  like 
manner,  Coo-Coo  received  smuggled  cattle  on  this  side  of  the 
Rio  Grande. 

Captain  Hughes  and  the  rangers  were  appealed  to  to  inter- 
cept and  capture  the  two  bandits,  who  had,  a  short  time  before, 
waylaid  and  killed  a  ranger.  Previous  to  this  Coo-Coo's  gang 
had  boasted  that  no  one  could  arrest  any  of  the  band  and 
escape  alive.  Captain  Hughes  dispatched  Jeff  Vaughan,  who 
enlisted  the  aid  of  J.  W.  Pool  in  a  search  for  the  bandits ;  and 
they  found  the  leader  at  his  jacal  on  the  river  banks.  He  was 
sitting  in  front  of  the  door,  his  gun  being  inside  his  house. 
Before  he  could  reach  for  it,  Vaughan  drew  on  him,  and  the 
bandit  was  captured.  The  rangers  took  their  prisoner  to  a 
nearby  store,  where  he  was  guarded  until  they  could  have  a 
chance  to  search  for  others  of  his  band.  None  others  were 
captured,  however,  and  as  the  rangers  had  the  most  important 
of  the  bandits,  they  started  to  Marfa  with  him. 

The  bandit  was  placed  in  front,  as  the  rangers  feared  an 
attack  from  Coo-Coo's  companions,  during  their  return  journey. 
Vaughan  cautioned  Coo-Coo  to  keep  still  in  case  his  friends 
did  attempt  to  free  him,  stating  that  he  would  not  be  harmed ; 
but  that  if  he  made  a  single  false  move,  he  would  be  shot. 

About  four  miles  from  the  ranch  house,  the  bandit  began 
to  show  signs  of  nervousness.  Vaughan  and  Pool  watched  him 
closely,  and  his  actions  were  so  suspicious  that  Vaughan  drew 
his  rifle  from  his  scabbard.  Just  at  that  point  they  were  fired 
upon.  The  Mexicans  were  on  a  bluff  about  150  feet  above, 
and  the  bandit  made  a  break  to  get  to  his  friends,  but  was 
killed.  Pool's  saddle  was  hit  by  a  bullet,  and  the  bandit  leader 
Aramos  was  shot  in  the  hip.  About  one  hundred  shots  were 
fired,  when  the  Mexicans  broke  for  the  river.  The  dead  leader 


312  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

of  the  band  was  taken  to  Shafter,  where  he  was  buried.  Ara- 
mos  was  later  killed  by  Colonel  Ortega,  a  Carrancista  com- 
mander, below  Ojinaga. 

During  January,  1913,  Moore  and  Webster,  of  the  rangers, 
had  a  thrilling  encounter  with  "a  detachment  of  Jose  Ynez 
Salazar's  band  of  rebels,  near  Fabens.  The  rebels  attempted 
to  enter  United  States  territory,  but  Moore  and  Webster 
ordered  them  to  stop.  When  they  were  ordered  not  to  cross 
the  border,  the  rebels  began  shooting  at  the  two  rangers,  and 
the  fire  was  returned.  It  was  later  discovered  that  three  of 
the  Mexican  soldiers  were  killed. 

In  1914,  a  report  reached  Governor  Colquitt  from  the 
Madero  Ranch  which  said  that  there  was  a  standing  reward 
among  Mexicans,  offering  five  hundred  head  of  cattle  for  the 
head  of  every  Texas  ranger.  The  governor  then  announced 
that  he  would  keep  the  militia  on  the  border  until  an  equal 
force  of  United  States  troops,  promised  by  Secretary  Garrison, 
should  arrive. 

Captain  John  Hughes,  senior  officer  of  the  rangers,  and 
Adjutant  General  Hutchings  were  directed  by  the  governor  to 
draw  up  the  border  into  three  general  districts.  Captain  Hughes 
had  charge  of  one  district  at  Brownsville;  Captain  Sanders 
was  stationed  at  Laredo,  and  Captain  Monroe  Fox  was  sta- 
tioned at  Marfa,  in  the  Big  Bend.  Each  division  employed  a 
sufficient  number  of  rangers  to  afford  protection  to  the  terri- 
tory along  the  border. 

The  rangers  were  instrumental  in  clearing  up  the  country 
of  many  desperate  outlaws,  and  among  them  was  a  Mexican 
bandit  named  Lina  Baiza,  who  was  killed  at  the  head  of  his 
band.  His  companions  escaped  across  the  river,  however,  and 
eluded  the  rangers.  Another  Mexican  bandit  executed  shortly 
after  this  was  Manuel  Cano,  who  openly  boasted  that  he  had 
shot  and  killed  one  of  the  field  inspectors.  And  so  was  brought 
about  the  capture  of  some  of  the  most  desperate  of  outlaws 
along  the  Rio  Grande,  although  their  depredations  were  never 
entirely  stopped,  even  up  to  the  present  time. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  313 


CHAPTER  XXIV 

Fort  Davis  perhaps  would  have  been  one  of  the  largest 
military  posts  in  the  west  had  the  railroad  passed  through  the 
town.  This  objection,  coupled  with  one  or  two  others,  how- 
ever, caused  the  Government  to  debate  for  some  time  as  to 
whether  the  post  should  be  retained  as  a  permanent  one.  The 
ground  on  which  the  post  buildings  were  erected  was  owned 
by  John  James.  The  Government  offered  to  buy  the  property, 
and  sent  out  Senator  Proctor  of  Vermont  to  investigate  and 
appraise  its  valuation.  The  senator  arrived,  wearing  a  silk 
top  hat  and  a  frock  tail  coat;  and  found  a  very  dry  desert 
country,  upon  which  he  pronounced  the  verdict  of  "no  good." 

Up  to  this  time,  the  Government  had  been  installing  modern 
conveniences,  such  as  bath  tubs  and  plumbing,  in  the  post  build- 
ings. These,  and  many  other  improvements,  were  immedi- 
ately discontinued  after  the  investigation  of  Senator  Proctor. 
The  five  troops  of  the  Eighth  Cavalry,  then  stationed  at  Fort 
Davis,  were  changed  to  other  posts,  and  on  July  31,  1891,  the 
old  post  was  officially  abandoned. 

At  this  time,  a  daring  Mexican  bandit,  Antonio  Carrasco, 
was  startling  the  country  along  the  Rio  Grande  with  his  incur- 
sions across  the  American  line.  Carrasco  led  a  large  band  of 
outlaws,  who  lived  in  the  mountains  of  Coahuila,  and  came 
out  only  for  the  purpose  of  raiding,  plundering,  and  killing. 
The  settlers  who  lived  on  the  frontier  at  that  time  were  almost 
without  exception  participants  in  some  thrilling  adventure. 
Carrasco  was  instrumental  in  bringing  about  the  murder  of 
both  Sergeant  Fusselman  of  the  Texas  Rangers,  and  of  Deputy 
Sheriff  Pastrana. 

One  of  the  most  startling  adventures  of  an  American  with 
the  bandits  was  that  of  Captain  Frank  Benairs.  He  had  started 
for  Central  America  with  a  number  of  friends,  but  their  schemes 


314  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

proved  too  visionary  for  him  and  he  separated  from  the  party, 
crossing  the  Rio  Grande,  accompanied  only  by  his  colored 
body  servant,  Nick.  The  negro  was  a  splendid  specimen  of 
physical  development  and  yielded  implicit  obedience  to  his 
master. 

Benairs  and  his  servant  procured  lodging  and  board  with 
a  Mexican  farmer,  and  while  there  heard  a  great  deal  of  talk 
concerning  the  daringly  vicious,  but  handsome  Antonio  Car- 
rasco.  Carrasco  was  a  lad  of  only  eighteen  years  of  age,  and 
Benairs  became  exceedingly  interested  in  the  story  that  was 
told  of  how  he  became  a  bandit.  The  story  went  that  one  night 
upon  the  return  of  Carrasco  to  his  home,  he  found  his  father 
and  mother  killed,  his  home  robbed  of  all  valuables,  and  his 
sister,  a  girl  of  sixteen  years,  carried  away. 

Carrasco  applied  to  the  authorities  for  a  force  of  men  to 
hunt  down  the  miscreants,  but  was  put  off  with  excuses  and 
delays,  which  finally  resulted  in  a  refusal.  Believing,  whether 
justly  or  not,  that  one  of  the  men  in  authority  had  excellent 
reasons  for  refusing  the  assistance  asked  of  him,  Carrasco 
walked  into  that  official's  private  quarters,  and  though  un- 
armed, cursed  him  as  a  villain,  at  the  same  time  threatening 
complete  vengeance.  Soldiers  were  at  once  summoned,  but 
the  boy  jumped  from  the  window  and  escaped. 

He  was  as  good  as  his  word,  however,  and  within  a  year  of 
his  threat,  the  father  and  mother  of  his  enemy  were  taken  to 
the  mountains,  tortured,  and  their  heads  placed  on  stakes  in 
the  highway.  The  enemy's  young  sister  was  murdered  and 
her  body  thrown  into  the  street,  with  a  dc  gger  pinning  a  letter 
to  her  breast.  Finally  the  officer  himself  was  captured,  taken 
to  the  mountains,  tortured  into  confession  and  then  slowly 
put  to  death. 

Carrasco  with  his  small  band  had  committed  such  crimes 
by  this  time  that  high  rewards  were  set  upon  their  heads.  They 
pledged  themselves,  however,  to  eternal  fidelity  to  their  career, 
and  laughed  in  the  faces  of  their  enemies.  Though  educated, 
accomplished,  and  aristocratic,  Carrasco  made  war  upon  the 
aristocracy,  and  stripped  the  wealthy  to  give  to  the  poor,  know- 


s« 

C/J  .2 


g 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  315 

ing  that  by  doing  so  he  would  retain  his  popularity,  and  as  a 
consequence  his  supremacy. 

Benairs  found  all  of  these  stories  of  the  boy  bandit  of 
much  interest  to  his  sporting  blood.  The  day  finally  came  when 
he  and  his  servant  decided  to  go  southward  toward  Mexico 
City.  Nick  was  packing  up  when  he  turned  to  his  master  and 
stated  that  he  believed  that  two  of  Carrasco's  men  were  con- 
templating a  robbery  that  night  on  a  store  in  the  neighborhood, 
giving  as  his  authority  bits  of  conversation  he  had  overheard  in 
regard  to  the  planned  attack. 

Benairs  dismissed  the  matter,  but  it  gave  him  more  un- 
easiness than  he  cared  to  show.  Don  Jose  Garcia,  who  had  a 
splendid  property  near  by,  had  none  too  many  retainers  for 
defense,  and  had,  no  doubt,  sufficient  wealth  to  tempt  the 
cupidity  of  a  bandit.  And  besides,  if  the  nature  of  the  young 
villain,  Carrasco,  had  been  depicted  correctly,  the  beauty  of 
the  young  Senorita  Donna  Inez  would  prove  tempting  enough. 
Benairs  had  met  Don  Garcia  and  his  family  several  times  in  a 
social  way,  and  could  not  bear  the  thought  of  so  amiable  a 
family  being  attacked  by  the  outlaws.  The  Don's  house  con- 
sisted only  of  himself,  his  daughter,  her  duenna  and  the  usual 
servants. 

Benairs  bade  his  landlord  adieu  and  started  off  before  day- 
light that  day.  As  they  passed  Don  Garcia's  house,  he  felt 
irresistibly  urged  to  awaken  the  owner  and  warn  him,  wonder- 
ing all  the  time  how  he  could  explain  so  strange  an  action  at 
so  early  an  hour.  Obeying  his  impulse,  he  finally  rang  the 
large  bell  in  front.  The  ring  was  answered  by  a  blood-curdling, 
long-drawn  wail  of  a  dog. 

The  negro  servant  rushed  into  the  house  and  returned,  his 
face  almost  ashen  with  fright.  Benairs  entered  the  house  and 
found  the  bodies  of  the  servants  lying  dead  upon  the  floor. 
Not  a  living  person  was  near.  The  dog,  wounded  and  fright- 
ened, started  up  a  path  leading  to  the  back  of  the  house  into 
the  mountain,  seemingly  in  the  hopes  of  attracting  Benairs  and 
his  servant.  Benairs  and  the  negro  followed.  Presently  they 
lost  sight  of  the  dog,  and  hitching  their  horses  they  started 


316  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

through  the  underbrush,  when  a  growl  called  to  their  attention 
the  bound  and  gagged  form  of  the  old  Don,  the  dog  standing 
by  his  side. 

Don  Garcia  was  hastily  released,  and  in  his  broken  English 
he  explained  as  best  he  could  what  had  happened.  Carrasco 
and  his  band  had  surprised  him,  killed  the  servants,  brought 
him  to  the  mountains  to  starve  to  death,  and  had  ridden  off 
with  his  daughter.  The  anguish  of  the  father  was  pitiable. 
Putting  him  upon  the  horse  in  front  of  him,  Benairs  impressed 
upon  him  that  he  must  guide  them ;  whereupon  they  followed 
the  path  taken  by  the  bandits. 

Don  Garcia  stated  that  there  were  only  five  of  the  bandits, 
and  Benairs  thought,  if  it  were  possible  to  catch  them  before 
they  reached  their  den  or  were  joined  by  their  comrades,  he 
would  have  a  good  chance  of  success.  In  about  half  an  hour 
they  came  to  an  abrupt  turn  of  the  road  and  saw  the  bandits 
below  preparing  for  breakfast.  They  were  on  a  shelf  of  rock 
which  was  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  one  side  of  which  rose 
perpendicularly.  On  the  other  side  was  a  direct  fall  of  a 
thousand  feet.  Before  the  bandits  the  road  wound  slowly 
down  into  the  valley,  and  behind  them  Benairs,  Don  Garcia, 
and  the  negro  crept  forward  to  surprise  them.  The  lovely 
Donna  Inez  could  be  seen  among  the  bandits  with  her  slender 
wrists  tied  with  lariats. 

Benairs  and  his  servant  crept  closer  after  ordering  the  old 
Don  to  stand  still.  At  the  first  fire  made  by  Benairs,  two  of 
the  bandits  dropped  dead,  and  the  fire  returned  by  the  other 
three  was  of  no  import.  The  bandits  did  not  know  how  many 
were  in  the  attacking  party,  and  the  sudden  fire  made  them 
believe  that  their  only  safety  lay  in  flight.  Springing  to  their 
horses,  they  rushed  over  the  little  rise  which  formed  a  sort  of 
natural  rampart  and  galloped  down  the  road,  and  around  the 
curve  of  the  valley. 

With  Donna  Inez  was  her  maid,  and  the  first  work  of 
Benairs  and  Don  Garcia  was  to  release  the  two  girls.  The 
maid  had  fainted,  and  Benairs  was  hurrying  to  get  her  on  one 
of  the  horses  as  well  as  to  place  her  mistress  upon  one.  His 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  317 

solicitation  in  wishing  to  be  off  appeared  almost  rude  to  the 
affectionate  father  and  daughter,  who  were  overwhelmed  at 
their  meeting.  But  they  were  soon  to  realize  the  importance  of 
Benairs'  hurry,  as  the  entire  number  of  the  robber  band  were 
coming  to  reinforce  Carrasco.  They  were  twenty  in  number, 
and  Benairs  saw  the  uselessness  of  any  further  struggle  with 
two  tired  horses  and  a  maid  who  had  fainted.  He  determined 
on  a  bold  stroke. 

""Nick,"  said  Benairs,  to  his  servant,  "can  you  run  down 
around  the  curve,  catch  that  boyish  looking  leader  and  carry 
him  here  if  you  are  not  interfered  with?"  The  negro  tipped 
the  scales  at  two  hundred  pounds. 

"Why,  co'se  I  kin,  Marse  Cap'n,  ef  I  ain't  interfered  wid," 
responded  the  servant,  "but  what's  gwine  to  keep  'em  from 
interfering  wid  me  ?" 

"When  you  start  down  the  hill,  they  will  not  attack  you," 
replied  his  master,  "because  they  will  think  you  have  deserted 
us.  If  you  can  catch  that  young  villain  by  the  wrists,  you  can 
easily  throw  him  on  your  back  with  one  arm  drawn  tightly  over 
each  of  your  shoulders,  and  you  will  have  his  body  between 
you  and  them  while  you  are  coming  back.  They  will  not  dare 
shoot  for  fear  of  killing  their  leader." 

Benairs  knew  that  the  only  risk  was  that  some  of  the  out- 
laws might  be  quick  enough  to  get  on  their  horses  and  catch 
the  negro  before  he  reached  his  master,  but  he  had  decided  to 
cover  the  servant  and  his  captive  with  his  rifles. 

"They  are  off  their  horses  now,"  exclaimed  Benairs; 
"hurry!" 

No  sooner  was  this  said,  than  the  negro  rushed  off  down 
the  slope.  Benairs  placed  himself  in  view,  drew  his  rifle  on  the 
retreating  negro  just  about  the  time  when  he  supposed  the  out- 
laws were  ready  to  receive  him  as  a  deserter.  Rushing  up  to 
young  Carrasco,  the  negro  grasped  each  wrist,  turned  him  over 
upon  his  own  back,  and  was  under  good  headway  before  the 
stupefied  Mexicans  could  stir.  When  they  did  realize  what 
had  occurred,  a  howl  went  up  among  them.  Two  men  started 
after  the  ne^ro  and  his  captive,  on  foot,  and  two  more  sprang 


318  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

for  their  horses.  The  suspense  felt  by  Benairs  and  his  party 
was  terrible.  One  man  got  his  horse  quicker  than  was  ex- 
pected, and,  yelling  for  the  men  to  clear  the  way,  came  charging 
up  the  road.  Benairs  was  very  careful  with  his  aim,  and 
before  the  pursuer  had  half  way  reached  the  negro,  his  horse 
was  shot  from  under  him.  This  gave  the  negro  time  to  reach 
his  master  with  his  burden.  At  this  the  whole  crowd  of  out- 
laws rushed  up  the  slope. 

Benairs  gave  orders  to  the  negro  to  hold  Carrasco  suspended 
over  the  side  of  the  mountain, \and  as  soon  as  this  was  done  he 
told  Carrasco  to  order  his  men  to  halt  until  matters  could  be 
discussed.  At  the  same  time  he  ordered  the  servant  to  hurl 
the  young  villain  over  the  mountain  side  if  the  men  came  past 
a  boulder  fifty  yards  distance.  Don  Garcia  was  ordered  to 
take  one  of  the  guns  lying  on  the  ground,  and  also  to  arm  his 
daughter  and  her  maid,  who  had  in  the  meantime  recovered 
from  her  faint.  Carrasco  pretended  not  to  understand  Benairs, 
but  when  his  men  had  almost  reached  the  boulder,  his  voice  rang 
out  clear  as  a  bugle  and  stopped  them  as  if  they  had  been 
jerked  up  with  a  rope.  When  the  Mexicans  saw  the  peril  of 
their  leader,  a  cry  of  protest  went  up. 

Carrasco  then  coolly  explained  to  his  men  the  situation, 
that  Benairs'  party  was  only  three  against  twenty,  and  that 
they  could  take  them  all  and  get  the  booty,  but  if  they  did  so 
he  would  be  thrown  to  the  vultures. 

"If  they  restore  me  to  you  they  will  insist  on  our  returning 
all  we  took  from  the  hacienda,"  said  Carrasco  to  them.  "Shall 
we  do  this,  or  shall  I  bid  you  adieu,  let  you  retain  what  you  have, 
avenge  my  death,  and  elect  another  leader?" 

But  the  outlaws  loved  their  daring  leader,  and  cried  out 
in  one  voice  for  him  to  make  any  terms  so  long  as  his  life  was 
spared. 

Benairs  thereupon  ordered  the  negro  to  bring  the  young 
brigand  to  him,  and,  with  Donna  Inez  as  interpreter,  negotia- 
tions were  made.  It  was  some  time  before  they  could  decide 
upon  terms,  but  they  finally  came  to  a  decision  which  demanded 
that  every  outlaw,  one  by  one,  was  to  deposit  his  weapons  with 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  319 

the  negro.  This  agreement  was  carried  out  perfectly,  and  what 
weapons  they  could  not  carry  with  them,  Benairs  threw  over 
the  side  of  the  mountain. 

Benairs  and  his  party,  thereupon,  turned  and  started  back 
to  the  home  of  Don  Garcia,  from  which  place  a  physician  was 
sent  for  to  attend  to  the  wounds  of  the  old  Don,  and  to  dress 
his  daughter's  wrists,  which  had  been  cut  with  the  ropes.  The 
legs  of  the  negro  also  were  badly  cut  by  Carrasco's  spurs  when 
he  was  kicking  and  struggling  to  free  himself. 

Benairs  and  his  servant  remained  at  the  Garcia  home  for 
about  ten  days,  during  which  time  the  Don  turned  his  place 
into  a  miniature  fort,  capable  of  standing  a  month's  siege. 
There  might  have  been  a  romance  attached  to  the  incident  had 
Donna  Inez  been  willing,  as  her  father  intimated  that  Benairs 
was  at  liberty  to  win  her  heart  and  hand,  if  he  desired.  The 
beautiful  senorita  confessed  her  love,  however,  for  a  handsome 
young  Mexican,  and  Benairs  acted  as  love's  ambassador  to  the 
stern  but  loving  father,  and  won  the  eternal  gratitude  of  Donna 
Inez  and  her  lover. 

There  was  a  romance  attached  to  the  incident,  at  any  rate. 
When  the  old  Don  offered  to  give  the  negro  servant  a  good  start 
as  a  farmer,  he  afterward  married  the  senorita's  peon  maid. 
After  satisfying  himself  that  the  Garcia  home  was  well  pro- 
tected from  future  raids,  Benairs  went  on  to  Mexico  and  opened 
up  a  business  of  his  own. 

It  was  some  years  after  this  that  the  daring  and  brilliant 
young  bandit  was  executed  in  the  camp  of  General  Jose  de  la 
Cruz  Sanchez,  of  the  insurrecto  army,  by  order  of  Francisco 
Madero.  The  condemned  was  shot  by  a  firing  squad  of  five 
men ;  but,  true  to  his  character,  he  faced  them  with  a  cigaret  in 
his  lips,  with  his  hands  tied,  and  requested  that  the  party  aim 
at  his  heart.  His  breast  was  riddled  by  bullets.  He  had  been 
condemned  to  death  as  a  spy  after  being  found  guilty  by  a  court 
martial  of  treason.  At  the  beginning  of  the  rebellion  he  had 
been  admitted,  with  his  band  of  nearly  one  hundred  men,  into 
the  insurgent  army,  and  when  the  siege  of  Ojinaga  began  he 
was  given  an  important  point  with  orders  to  advance  and  cut 


320  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

the  line  of  communication  with  the  American  side  of  the  Rio 
Grande.  He  had  failed  to  do  this,  however,  and  letters  from 
him  to  General  Luque,  commanding  the  federal  garrison,  were 
intercepted.  These  were  taken  as  conclusive  evidence  that 
Carrasco  had  warned  that  officer  of  his  danger,  and  for  this 
crime  he  was  shot. 

It  was  during  the  same  period  that  Corporal  John  R. 
Hughes  of  the  rangers  distinguished  himself  for  many  of  his 
noteworthy  arrests  of  bandits  and  Mexican  outlaws.  In  1892, 
he  apprehended  a  band  of  fifty  robbers  who  were  stealing  ore 
from  the  Shafter  mine.  This  mine  employed  a  large  force  and 
was  continually  being  robbed  by  the  outlaws  that  roamed  the 
country.  This  was  soon  checked  by  Hughes  and  his  rangers, 
however,  who  made  it  too  unpleasant  for  the  outlaws  to  keep 
up  their  thievery.  Hughes  and  his  men  had  numerous  fights 
with  cattle  thieves,  and  succeeded  in  capturing  many  of  the 
outlaws  in  that  part  of  the  country.  Several  were  hanged  for 
murder,  some  were  extradited  by  Mexico,  and  others  were 
sent  to  the  penitentiary. 

On  one  occasion,  Hughes  acted  in  the  role  of  Solomon  when 
he  let  little  children  choose  their  own  pet  calves.  It  happened 
that  Hughes  and  his  men  had  apprehended  a  band  of  cattle 
thieves  and  had  recovered  one  hundred  and  forty  calves,  most 
of  which  had  been  stolen  from  milch  cows  of  a  border  town. 
Many  of.  the  calves  were  pets  of  little  children,  and  were  placed 
in  a  corral  until  they  were  called  for  by  their  owners.  When 
the  children  came,  they  each  called  their  calves  by  names,  put- 
ting their  arms  about  the  animals'  necks  and  leading  them  from 
the  corral. 

A  short  time  before  this,  Hughes  was  promoted  from  cor- 
poral to  take  charge  of  the  rangers,  and  to  fill  the  vacancy  made 
by  the  assassination  of  the  commandant  of  the  company,  Cap- 
tain Frank  Jones.  Little  was  ever  learned  of  how  Captain 
Jones  lost  his  life,  and  the  true  story  perhaps  never  will  be 
known.  He  was  killed  on  Mexican  soil,  after  having  crossed  the 
Rio  Grande  to  intercept  Severe  Olguin,  who  had  killed  a  man 
on  the  American  side.  The  Olguin  brothers  were  a  lawless 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  321 

tribe,  and  Severe  was  said  to  have  been  the  fiercest  of  the  lot. 
Physically  he  was  small  and  dried  up,  with  keen,  piercing  eyes, 
but  rather  good  looking.  As  he  was  the  one  who  always  made 
the  most  trouble,  it  was  thought  that  it  was  he  who  had  fired  the 
fatal  shot  at  Captain  Jones.  The  truth  of  the  matter  was  never 
known,  but  at  any  rate  another  chapter  had  been  terminated 
in  the  series  of  bloody  encounters  between  law  and  lawlessness. 


322  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 


CHAPTER  XXV 

When  King  Solomon  made  the  famous  statement  "There 
is  nothing  new  under  the  sun"  he  must  have  had  in  mind  the 
fact  that  in  the  beginning  all  things  were  potentially  proven; 
that  nothing  was  lacking  which  was  necessary  to  complete 
every  phase  of  existence ;  and  that  men  had  lived  so  long  and 
in  such  numbers  that  nearly  any  change  possible  in  the  chord 
of  Nature  had  been  touched  somewhere,  at  some  time,  by 
someone. 

The  theory  serves  to  bring  to  our  minds  the  process  of 
reasoning  by  which  we  render  an  application  of  this  saying — 
"There  is  nothing  new  under  the  sun" — through  something  that 
is  familiar  to  everyone.  Take,  for  instance,  the  lasso :  When 
the  lasso  was  first  knotted,  made  into  a  loop,  and  used  to 
display  skill  in  catching  objects,  it  was  probably  a  wonderful 
discovery.  At  any  rate,  it  was  a  wonderful  discovery  to  those 
who  knew  nothing  of  the  skill  displayed  by  the  Texan  and  the 
Mexican  when  they  used  the  lasso  as  only  the  people  of  the 
open  range  can  use  it. 

The  Mexican,  it  is  learned,  possessed  the  skill  of  lassoing 
and  of  marking  and  branding  cattle,  long  before  Texas  was 
settled  by  Anglo-Saxons.  Consequently,  it  was  to  the  Mexican 
that  the  origin  of  these  two  customs — lassoing  and  branding 
cattle — was  attributed,  and  for  -a  long  time  no  further  antiquity 
for  them  could  be  found. 

It  was  an  established  fact  that  prior  to  the  discovery  of 
America  there  were  no  domesticated  animals  on  the  Western 
Hemisphere,  with  the  exception  of  the  dog,  in  North  America, 
and  llano,  in  South  America.  The  dog,  whose  attachment  is 
always  of  a  personal  nature,  would  not  need  a  mark  for  his 
identification ;  while  the  llano,  as  owned  in  Peru,  remained  the 
property  of  the  Incas  wherever  found,  and  there  could  have 
been  no  private  ownership  of  them.  Consequently,  upon  neither 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  323 

Americas  there  was  no  occasion  for  the  art  of  lassoing  and 
branding  animals  to  denote  private  ownership. 

There  were  two  wild  species  closely  related  to  the  llano 
which  were  never  domesticated  and  which  ran  wild  in  the 
Cordilleras,  known  as  the  huanco  and  the  vicuna.  Had  the 
natives  been  allowed  to  hunt  and  kill  these  animals  for  food, 
they  might  possibly  have  learned  to  use  the  lasso.  Even  then, 
as  they  had  no  horses,  the  lasso  would  have  been  a  thing  of 
little  use. 

But  one's  faith  in  Mexican  inventive  genius  receives  a  shock 
upon  reading  Herodotus,  for  the  Father  of  History  gives  an 
account  of  the  great  expedition  made  by  Xerxes,  King  of 
Persia,  against  the  Greeks,  2,400  years  ago.  In  this  account, 
a  description  is  given  of  the  magnificent  world's  expedition  of 
people  and  manners  in  the  heterogeneous  army  of  five  million 
gathered  together  under  the  banner  of  one  king  so  long  ago. 
In  one  of  the  most  striking  accounts,  the  historian  tells  of  the 
5,000  Sagartians  from  the  country  north  of  the  Caspian  Sea. 
He  relates  that  they  were  mounted  on  sturdy  horses  and 
carried  only  dirks  and  lassos.  When  they  met  the  enemy, 
the  Sagartians  threw  their  ropes  which  ended  in  a  noose,  and 
whatever  the  lasso  encircled,  be  it  man  or  beast,  they  dragged 
it  toward  them  and  slew  the  victim  entangled  in  the  toils. 

The  practice  of  branding  cattle  is  traced  to  the  ancient 
Egyptians.  In  Thebes,  in  a  rock  hewn  tomb  of  a  cattle  king, 
there  was  found,  years  ago,  a  set  of  mural  decorations,  which 
showed  the  custom  of  cattle  raising  in  Egypt  3,500  years  ago. 
There  is  also  extant  a  life-sized  drawing  of  a  cow,  lying  on  her 
side  with  her  feet  turned  out,  tied  just  as  the  cowboy  ties  her 
to-day,  while  he  is  putting  the  brand  on  her  side  or  hip. 
Nearby,  is  drawn  another  cowboy  with  a  small  charcoal  fur- 
nace, showing  that  it  must  be  in  a  country  destitute  of  fuel. 
A  brand  is  shown  on  the  thigh  of  the  cow,  while  several  more 
brands  are  about  her  body,  which  makes  the  cow  resemble 
a  typical  Texan  animal  after  it  had  changed  owners  a  half 
a  dozen  times.  As  shown  in  the  drawing,  the  brand  is  not  a 
letter  or  figure,  but  a  geometrical  character  composed  of 


324  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

squares  and  crosses,  bearing  close  resemblance  to  the  patterns 
frequently  seen  in  tessellated  pavements. 

Thus  has  the  art  of  lassoing  and  branding  descended  from 
the  dawn  of  time  down  to  the  present  day,  and  was  used  exten- 
sively during  the  building  up  of  the  Big  Bend  and  other  parts 
of  the  West  where  cattle  raising  is  the  principal  industry. 

In  1882,  when  the  Texas  &  Pacific  Railroad  crossed  the 
Trans-Pecos  region,  Van  Horn  was  first  made  a  station.  The 
country  surrounding  this  place  is  noted  for  its  fine  stock  and 
is  one  of  the  most  famous  ranching  districts  in  the  Southwest. 
There  is  little  farming  except  around  the  ranch  settlements 
where  the  ranchmen  cultivate  small  orchards,  gardens,  and 
small  feed  crops  for  his  cattle.  This  is  done  by  irrigation 
from  wells,  reservoirs,  or  springs.  In  a  few  instances,  when 
the  season  is  good,  dry-land  farming  on  sub-irrigated  farm 
lands  is  attempted,  but  other  than  this  the  greatest  effort  is 
placed  on  the  cattle  raising  industry. 

The  country  surrounding  Van  Horn  for  many  miles  forms 
a  great  basin.  From  the  south,  the  waters  from  Valentine,  and 
from  the  north,  the  waters  from  New  Mexico  between  the 
Diablos  and  Delaware  ranges,  drain  into  the  Van  Horn  basin. 
The  soil  is  alluvial  in  the  lower  part  of  the  basin,  while  the 
benches  are  white  limestone.  These  benches  are  covered  with 
the  famous  black  grama  grass. 

Forty  miles  north  of  Van  Horn  is  located  J.  M.  Daugherty's 
valley  land,  which  is  susceptible  to  irrigation  from  reservoirs,  as 
water  in  abundance  lies  seven  to  thirty  feet  below  the  surface. 
A  demonstration  farm  in  the  valley  has  shown  that  almost  all 
vegetables  can  be  raised,  as  well  as  sugar-beets  and  alfalfa. 
The  valley  includes  perhaps  one  hundred  thousand  acres.  Out 
from  Van  Horn  a  fourteen-mile  railroad  grade  has.  been  con- 
structed and  a  survey  extends  on  to  the  New  Mexico  line  near 
Orange.  The  world  war  checked  the  operations  of  the  syndi- 
cate having  the  work  in  hand. 

Van  Horn  was  named  for  the  old  Van  Home  stage  stand, 
which  in  turn  received  its  name  from  Major  Van  Home,  who 
commanded  the  troops  along  the  Rio  Grande  in  1857. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  325 

Until  1905,  there  was  but  little  ranching  carried  on  between 
Sierra  Blanco  and  the  New  Mexico  line,  owing  to  the  great 
scarcity  of  water.  The  Lanier  Brothers  first  began  a  deep 
well  project  upon  two  hundred  thousand  acres  of  Texas  State 
University  land.  While  this  well  was  being  drilled  water  was 
hauled  twenty-five  miles.  A  well  was  sunk  after  much  work 
had  been  accomplished  and  water  was  reached  at  900  ft.  depth. 
Some  wells  were  1,100  ft.  deep.  But  well  drilling  was  not  for 
the  poor  man,  and  many  ranchmen  had  to  be  satisfied  with 
scraping  out  tanks  or  reservoirs.  As  the  cost  for  completing 
a  well  ran  from  $10,000  to  $12,000,  entailing  a  considerable 
further  expense  for  the  upkeep,  ranchmen  could  not  afford  to 
handle  less  than  forty  sections. 

Irrigation  began  in  the  vicinity  of  Pecos  City,  on  the  Pecos 
River,  in  1886.  The  country  was  noted  at  that  time  for  its 
cattle,  and  irrigation  but  speeded  the  success.  Pecos  City  was 
started  close  to  the  river,  but  owing  to  the  inability  of  the  set- 
tlers to  get  title  to  the  land — as  it  was  in  a  condition  where  the 
heirs  could  not  be  reached  conveniently — the  town  was  moved 
back  a  mile  and  a  half,  where  George  A.  Knight  had  received 
land  and  could  produce  title.  Reeves  County,  of  which  Pecos 
City  as  county  seat,  was  organized  in  1884,  with  R.  S.  Harrell 
as  first  County  Judge  and  with  John  Morris  as  first  sheriff. 
Pecos  City  is  familiarly  known  as  the  "town  of  salt  cedars." 

The  cattle  in  the  Davis  Mountains  were  of  a  fine,  healthy 
breed,  and  many  settlers  passing  through,  upon  seeing  them, 
pitched  their  tents  in  the  grassy  canyons  rather  than  go  farther 
west.  In  1885,  several  families  were  enroute  to  Arizona,  from 
Menard  County.  In  the  party  was  William  L.  Kingston,  who, 
upon  reaching  Toyah,  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  famous  cattle  of 
the  Davis  Mountains,  and  could  not  be  induced  to  go  farther. 
He  obtained  employment  at  the  W.  D.  Casey  ranch  and  later 
leased  the  J.  L.  Moore  ranch,  which  in  time  he  bought. 

The  story  of  how  Kingston  started  at  the  bottom,  in  a  new 
country,  finally  succeeding,  is  typical  of  many  Texas  pioneers 
who  worked  and  won.  Kingston  was  assisted  by  his  wife,  who 
was  the  daughter  of  a  pioneer  settler  from  St.  Louis,  Missouri. 


326  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Kingston  and  his  wife  both  knew  the  first  laws  of  thrift  and 
practiced  them  diligently  in  their  ranch  life.  They  raised  all 
of  their  commodities,  and  never  bought  butter,  lard,  meat,  eggs, 
nor  garden  truck,  except  at  one  time  when  they  traded  some 
produce  for  a  small  quantity  of  lard.  Their  spirit  of  thrift 
was  practiced  by  other  pioneer  families  who  attained  success 
and  whose  names  are  the  ones  that  will  be  preserved  in  the 
archives  of  the  history  of  the  Southwest  until  this  age  has  been 
swept  out  by  another. 

The  last  glimpse  of  the  Toy  ah  Valley  given  the.  reader  was 
during  the  early  days  when  Miller,  Murphy,  Kessey,  and  the 
Lyles  stood  their  ground  against  the  renegade  Apache,  and  laid 
the  foundation  for  the  present  day  great  irrigation  system 
around  modern  Balmorhea. 

This  system  was  begun  by  the  valley  farmers  who  organized 
an  irrigation  district  and  who  expended  over  a  quarter  of  a 
million  dollars  for  the  purpose  of  increasing  the  available  water 
supply.  Before  this  was  done  the  crops  were  obliged  to  go 
eighty  days  without  water  during  one  period  of  the  growing 
season.  Even  with  this  handicap,  one  energetic  farmer  made 
$3,600  net,  in  one  season  from  seventy-six  acres.  To  obtain 
two  more  irrigations  during  the  season  the  irrigation  district, 
which  numbered  about  fifty  farmers,  placed  on  their  land  an 
annual  tax  of  $3.50  per  acre  to  take  care  of  this  bond  issue  and 
properly  maintain  the  irrigation  system. 

Balmorhea  lies  at  the  base  of  the  Davis  Mountains  and  up 
to  the  time  of  building  the  great  reservoir,  the  water  supply  was 
taken  from  San  Solomon  Springs,  which  bubbles  out  of  the 
ground,  up  toward  the  mountain  range,  with  a  flow  of  twenty 
cubic  feet  per  second.  The  present  system  collects  the  surplus 
waters  from  these  springs  into  a  large  reservoir  during  the 
winter  season  and  also  diverts  the  flood  waters  from  Madero 
Canyon  into  the  reservoir.  The  Madero  Canyon  has  a  water- 
shed of  ten  square  miles,  and  so  steep  and  precipitous  is  this 
watershed  that  the  rain — when  it  does  rain — forms  mill-races 
down  the  hundred  arroyos  leading  from  the  mountain  slopes  to 
Toyah  Valley.  This  water  has  been  diverted  to  an  intake  canal, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  327 

28  feet  wide  at  the  base,  with  a  clearing  capacity  of  1,000  cubic 
feet  of  water  per  second.  This  canal  empties  into  a  creek 
which  empties  into  the  reservoir.  At  the  head  of  the  canal, 
gates  have  been  constructed  to  let  five  feet  of  water  into  the 
canal.  These  gates  have  5oo-foot  wing  walls  of  earth  and 
500- foot  spillway  of  reinforced  concrete.  The  surplus  runs  off 
down  the  creek. 

To  form  the  reservoir,  Jameson  &  Company  built  a  main 
dam  47  feet  high,  about  2,000  feet  long,  and  containing  165,000 
to  180,000  cubic  yards  of  material.  The  slope  is  2^2  to  I  on 
the  front,  and  \y2  to  i  on  the  back.  The  main  part  of  this  dam 
is  paved  with  reinforced  concrete,  7  inches  thick  at  the  bottom 
and  4  inches  at  the  top,  the  reinforcing  wire  being  laid  diago- 
nally in  order  to  better  take  up  the  expansion.  This  concrete 
work  was  done  by  Roy  &  Simons,  of  Sweetwater,  Texas. 

This  great  embankment  has  been  laid  in  3-foot  lifts  and 
each  lift  irrigated,  which  seems  to  have  been  something  new 
in  dam  construction.  By  tapping  a  creek  two  miles  away, 
water  was  carried  to  the  top  of  the  dam,  and  the  core  or  center 
of  the  dam  was  "puddled"  in.  This  is  a  new  process  in  dam 
construction,  wherein  the  adhesiveness  of  the  adobe  soil  is  in- 
creased by  an  admixture  of  water  which,  when  dry,  is  similar 
in  body  to  adobe  brick.  Also  an  abundant  supply  of  water 
was  brought  to  the  dam  for  the  purpose  of  watering  the  work 
stock,  mixing  concrete,  etc. 

Standing  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the  dam,  a  person 
unfamiliar  with  the  country's  topography  would  feel  positive 
that  the  water  was  flowing  up  hill.  Before  construction  began, 
an  elderly  Chicago  financier  stood  looking  over  the  project  with 
a  view  to  taking  bonds.  L.  B.  Westerman  of  Fort  Stockton,  a 
sub-contractor  who  built  the  flume  outlet  conduit  and  upper 
gates,  explained  to  him  how  water  was  to  be  carried  over  the 
intervening  hills  to  the  top  of  the  dam.  The  financier  looked 
incredulous.  Finally,  with  a  smile,  he  exclaimed: 

"If  I  was  thirty  years  younger,  I'd  call  you  a  liar." 

Underneath  the  main  dam  a  puddle  trench  was  dug  20  feet 
deep,  carried  down  to  the  rock  or  clay  to  cut-off  and  gravel 


328  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

stratum.     It  was  filled  with  water  and  the  material  "bulldozed" 
in  from  the  ends. 

Irrigation  of  the  successive  lifts  in  the  dam  was  continued 
for  two  or  three  days,  work  proceeding  at  the  other  end  mean- 
while. There  is  also  a  cut-off  dam  of  21,000  cubic  yards,  to 
keep  the  water  out  of  the  town  of  Balmorhea. 

An  outlet  canal  and  concrete  conduit  210  feet  long  at  the 
bottom  of  a  2O-foot  cut,  mostly  rock  work,  was  constructed. 
There  is  a  double  set  of  gates,  one  for  service  and  one  for 
emergency.  After  passing  through  the  conduit,  water  from 
the  reservoir  is  carried  around  a  hill  through  a  flume,  built  of 
Armco  iron,  975  feet  long,  and  empties  into  the  main  canal  of 
the  project. 

The  intake  canal  was  dug  with  Monigan  drag  lines.  A  por- 
tion of  the  banks  of  the  outlet  canal,  where  low,  were  built  up 
with  borrowed  material,  by  means  of  elevating  graders  and 
dump  wagons,  to  carry  2j^  feet  of  water. 

A.  D.  Jameson,  the  active  partner  of  Jameson  &  Company, 
was  in  charge  of  the  entire  work.  The  work  required  a  year 
and  125  men  were  employed. 

Vernon  L.  Sullivan,  former  territorial  engineer  for  New 
Mexico,  and  at  present  manager  of  the  Imperial  Irrigation 
Project  for  the  Orient  Railway  and  engineer  for  the  Fort 
Stockton  irrigated  lands,  was  engineer  for  Reeves  County 
Irrigated  District  No.  I.  R.  S.  Watrous  was  resident  en- 
gineer. 

The  reservoir  when  filled  with  water  covers  533  acres  and 
stores  7,000  acre-feet  of  water.  Thus  a  good-sized  lake  has 
been  formed  near  Balmorhea  and  the  inhabitants  have  stocked 
it  with  fish  and  put  on  a  boat  service  for  duck  hunting,  and  are 
talking  of  a  winter  resort  with  automobile  drives  through  the 
picturesque  Davis  Mountains. 

In  the  Trans-Pecos  region  of  Texas,  which  for  convenience 
we  are  designating  as  the  Big  Bend,  as  in  most  other  cow  and 
sheep  countries,  trouble  prevailed  in  the  early  days  between 
the  cow  and  sheep  men,  but  not  such  violent  trouble  as  occurred 
in  Wyoming.  The  story  of  the  man  with  the  bent  gun-barrel 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  329 

is  also  a  story  of  a  sheep  man  who  became  involved  with  a  cow 
outfit. 

A  man  named  Patterson  ran  a  bunch  of  sheep  in  the  region 
of  Gomez  Peak,  on  the  north  side  of  Davis  Mountains,  Jeff 
Davis  County.  The  Gomez  Cattle  Company,  with  which  the 
Newmans  of  El  Paso  were  connected,  had  cattle  on  the  MF 
range  (MF  was  the  brand  of  the  company).  Two  cowboys, 
one  a  Mexican,  the  other  an  American,  got  into  trouble  with 
Patterson  over  the  sheep  and  cattle  range  border.  In  a  fight 
which  ensued,  Patterson  shot  and  killed  the  Mexican  and  shot 
at  the  American,  who  fled. 

Patterson,  who  was  fifty  years  old  and  of  a  hasty  disposi- 
tion, abandoned  his  sheep  and  struck  out  horseback  for  the 
New  Mexico  border,  beyond  which  lay  safety. 

In  the  mountains  north  of  Kent,  he  reached  the  headquar- 
ters of  the  B-Bar  outfit,  owned  by  the  Bean  family.  At  the 
B-Bar  were  Jim  Bean,  then  a  lad,  his  father,  and  a  hired  man. 
Patterson  arrived  one  morning  while  the  three  were  at  break- 
fast. He  rode  a  jaded  horse,  and  he  was  weary  and  unkempt. 
He  carried  a  Winchester,  the  barrel  of  which  was  slightly  bent. 
Supposedly,  he  had  shot  the  Mexican  at  close  range  with  it,  but 
he  missed  the  American  cowboy  because  of  the  curve  of  the 
barrel. 

Patterson's  appearance  was  made  still  more  unprepossessing 
owing  to  the  fact  that  he  had  killed  a  rabbit  for  food  and  he 
had  no  water  to  erase  the  smears  of  blood.  He  asked  for 
breakfast.  The  lad,  Jim,  set  out  the  breakfast,  and  when  Pat- 
terson slacked  up  in  the  hurry  of  his  ravenous  appetite  and 
began  to  look  about  curiously,  Jim  asked  his  name — a  question 
which  in  those  days  was  considered  rather  unethical. 

"Patterson!"  replied  the  man,  quick  as  a  flash.  "Did  you 
ever  hear  of  it?" 

"No  !"  said  Jim,  quickly. 

But  the  story  of  the  killing  had  reached  the  B-Bar,  and  Jim 
had  his  suspicions.  The  man  appeared  to  be  relieved  at  Jim's 
answer  and  decided  to  remain  throughout  the  day  to  rest  his 
weary  mount.  The  father  and  hired  man  were  working  some 


330  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

distance  away  on  a  ranch  out-building.  Jim  slipped  away  from 
the  stranger  and  imparted  his  suspicions  to  the  men. 

As  the  day  went  by  and  the  stranger  sat  at  the  supper  table, 
the  hired  man,  who  was  a  giant  of  a  fellow,  proposed  to  Mr. 
Bean  that  he  be  permitted  to  strike  Patterson  with  some  weight 
and  bind  him.  But  the  ranchman  would  not  consent  to  this 
plan  of  capture  because  he  was  afraid  the  man  might  kill  the 
stranger,  or  that  he  might  fail  in  the  attempt  to  stun  him,  and 
Patterson  might  shoot  them.  Such  was  possible  as  Patterson 
kept  close  to  his  Winchester  and  the  Beans  were  unarmed.  It 
speaks  of  the  peacefulness  of  their  environment  that  the  ranch- 
men did  not  have  a  gun  on  the  ranch. 

Patterson  remained  one  full  day  and  night,  then  started  on 
the  Crow  Spring  trail  toward  New  Mexico — toward  what  is 
now  Orange.  As  he  was  preparing  to  start,  some  comment  was 
made  about  the  bent  gun-barrel. 

"Bent  it  over  a  man's  head,"  he  said,  briefly.  "Over  Charley 
Cole's  head  when  I  hit  him  in  a  quarrel." 

Cole  was  a  ranchman  whom  the  Beans  knew  had  had  trouble 
with  a  sheepman. 

Late  in  the  evening  of  that  day  on  which  Patterson  con- 
tinued his  journey,  two  Texas  rangers,  Joe  Sitters  and  Ed 
Eaton,  arrived  at  the  B-Bar  ranch.  Rangers  were  so  common 
in  those  days  that  the  Beans  did  not  think  at  first  of  mentioning 
Patterson,  as  it  did  not  occur  to  them  that  the  rangers  were 
after  him.  But  this  fact  came  out  after  a  time  and  early  the 
next  morning  the  two  men  of  the  law  set  out  on  the  Crow 
Spring  trail  after  their  man.  They,  too,  had  jaded  mounts, 
for  they  had  been  riding  long  and  hard — rangers  who  never 
gave  up  their  quarry. 

In  the  evening  they  came  in  sight  of  a  lone  man  riding  a 
weary  horse.  The  man  kept  looking  back  uneasily  and  urged 
his  horse  on,  but  the  rangers  gained  on  him.  When  they  were 
about  two  miles  from  the  New  Mexico  line,  where  their  hunt 
must  stop  to  keep  within  the  bounds  of  legality,  the  stranger 
ahead  of  them  stopped  and  called  back: 

"Are  you  afraid?" 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  331 

"No,"  said  the  rangers. 

"Why  don't  you  come  on  up  with  me  then  ?" 

They  overtook  him  and  Patterson  made  no  resistance.  He 
could  have  shot  at  them  when  they  were  far  back  and  perhaps 
prevented  his  capture  had  his  gun  barrel  not  been  so  bent  as  to 
shoot  in  a  curve.  He  was  taken  to  El  Paso  and  later  was  tried 
and  sentenced  in  Jeff  Davis  County. 

In  1896,  gold  began  to  lure  the  settlers  of  the  Big  Bend. 
A  negro  named  Bill  was  employed  by  John,  Frank,  and  Lee 
Reagan,  who  had  cattle  around  Stillwell's  Crossing,  with  head- 
quarters on  the  Rio  Grande  below  Boquillas. 

But  it  appeared  that  Bill  had  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  lustre 
of  gold.  One  morning  he  laid  a  handful  of  gold  nuggets 
before  Jim  Reagan  when  he  was  sitting  about  the  camp  break- 
fast. 

"See  what  I  have  got  from  my  gold  mine,"  he  said  to  the 
white  man. 

But  Reagan  brushed  the  stuff  from  the  table  saying  that  it 
was  nothing  but  copper  and  dust. 

The  next  day  the  negro  hunted  for  horses  all  day ;  but  on 
the  following  morning  he  shoved  another  handful  of  gold  at 
Reagan's  plate.  At  this  Reagan  informed  the  negro  that  he 
was  employed  to  hunt  horses,  not  to  search  for  gold ;  and  again, 
with  contempt,  he  brushed  the  gold  aside. 

A  short  time  after  this  Bill  was  sent  to  Sanderson  for  pro- 
visions. With  him  he  took  some  of  the  gold  and  gave  it  to  a 
railroad  conductor,  who  circulated  the  story  that  a  gold  mine 
was  near.  As  a  result  many  prospectors  became  interested. 
But  before  Bill  could  tell  just  where  the  gold  mine  was  he  made 
a  hurried  departure  from  the  Big  Bend.  It  happened  in  this 
rise: 

One  morning  while  out  in  the  hills  "rustling"  the  horses  he 
stayed  longer  than  the  Reagans  thought  necessary.  In  anger 
icy  went  in  search  of  him.  In  the  meanwhile,  however,  Bill 

le  into  camp  from  another  direction,  having  been  unable  to 
ind  the  horses;  and  he  was  warned  by  a  Mexican  that  the 
Reagans  were  out  looking  for  him.  The  negro  did  not  relish 


332  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

the  idea  of  being  punished,  so  he  "hit  the  trail."  That  was  the 
last  ever  seen  of  Bill. 

So  arose  the  story  of  the  lost  gold  mine,  which  lured  many 
fortune  hunters  to  the  Big  Bend.  The  business  of  searching 
began  and  the  Reagans,  who  had  so  disdainfully  repulsed  the 
negro,  became  mad  with  the  desire  to  locate  it\  They  spared 
neither  time  nor  expense  in  the  search.  They  paid  a  California 
prospector  ten  dollars  a  day  for  six  months  to  hunt  for  the 
mine;  and  when  the  time  came  to  pay  the  bill,  Jim  Reagan 
shipped  eighty  fine  fat  steers  to  market  to  get  the  money  to  pay 
the  prospector. 

During  the  first  years  of  the  search  Bill's  lost  mine  was 
supposed  to  be  on  the  Texas  side  of  the  Rio  Grande.  However, 
as  time  passed  and  genuine  prospectors,  who  were  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  various  formations  favorable  to  finding  gold, 
came  in  to  search  for  the  lost  mine,  the  mine  was  conveniently 
"moved"  to  the  Mexican  side,  where  there  was  a  possibility  of 
finding  the  mineral. 

The  prospectors  who  had  been  in  California  in  '49,  men 
from  all  parts  of  the  Southwest  and  in  other  portions  of  the 
country,  were  attracted  by  the  story  of  the  lost  gold  mine,  so 
many  and  alluring  were  the  stories  told  that  the  craze  settled 
on  young  and  old  in  the  Big  Bend.  But  time  passed  and 
the  lost  gold  mine  remained  unfounded.  The  one  logical  thing 
to  do  was  to  find  the  negro  Bill.  There  had  been  various 
reports  as  to  his  movements  and  some  said  he  had  died  at 
Fort  Worth.  Others  claimed  that  he  was  then  living  in 
Colorado. 

At  any  rate  he  acquainted  two  Colorado  prospectors  with 
the  story  of  the  mine,  as  there  came  to  Big  Bend  two  men  who 
worked  with  more  system  than  the  other  searchers  and  who 
seemed  to  be  better  informed  about  Bill.  Hearing  that  they 
were  from  Colorado,  Wilson  Bourland,  one  of  the  most  inter- 
ested of  the  prospectors,  went  to  see  them  with  the  hopes  of 
learning  something  about  the  negro.  Bourland  learned  from 
the' men  that  Bill  had  relatives  in  Austin ;  and  to  Austin  he  went 
to  interview  Bill's  kinsmen. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  333 

Bourland  reached  Austin  and  found  an  old  negro  who  pos- 
sessed a  fine  farm  and  a  close  mouth.  He  informed  Bourland, 
however,  that  the  Colorado  prospectors  had  maps  in  their  pos- 
session which  evidently  had  come  from  Bill. 

But  the  outcome  of  the  exploration  of  the  Colorado  pros- 
pectors bore  no  fruit.  They  planned  another  trip,  and  wrote 
to  Bourland  for  accommodations  in  the  way  of  burros,  but  they 
never  showed  up.  It  is  estimated  that  forty-five  thousand 
dollars  has  been  spent  in  the  search  for  Bill's  mine. 

If  you  but  stop  to  think,  have  you  ever  heard  of  a  lost  gold 
mine  being  found?  With  very  few  exceptions,  for  example 
the  lost  mine  of  Tiopa,  in  Mexico,  we  have  no  records  of  mines 
being  lost.  It  is  true  that  in  the  days  of  the  Spanish  conquista- 
dores  the  Indian  slaves  were  wont  to  revolt  against  their  harsh 
masters  and  often  destroyed  all  trace  of  the  mines  in  which 
they  had  worked,  in  order  that  they  would  not  be  again  forced 
to  enter  them.  But  it  is  an  open  question  as  to  whether  there 
is  such  a  thing  as  a  lost  gold  mine. 

To  get  back  to  Bill's  lost  mine :  Some  years  prior  to  the 
coming  of  the  Reagan  boys  in  the  Big  Bend,  an  old  ex-pros- 
pector, by  name  Corbett,  who  was  in  ill  health,  built  a  small 
cabin  upon  the  very  spot  where  in  later  years  the  Reagan  boys 
had  their  cow  camp.  The  old  prospector  had  worked  from 
Alaska  to  Panama,  and  he  had  gathered  a  wonderful  collection 
of  gold  bearing  ore.  At  the  time  Corbett  lived  at  Stillwell's 
Crossing,  Jim  Wilson  and  J.  E.  Davenport  were  running  cattle 
on  the  Rio  Grande,  with  their  headquarters  near  Corbett's 
cabin.  In  time  the  old  prospector  died;  a  windstorm  blew 
away  his  cabin  and  scattered  his  precious  collection  of  gold  ores 
over  the  hillside. 

Then  came  the  Reagan  boys  and  the  negro  Bill.  One  day 
Wilson  and  Davenport,  both  of  whom  were  great  practical 
jokers,  conceived  the  idea  of  playing  a  joke  on  the  Reagan 
boys.  So  they  broke  up  some  of  the  old  prospector's  gold  ores, 
secreted  it  in  a  good  place  and  "steered"  negro  Bill  up  against 
the  cache. 

The  plan  worked  beautifully.     In  much  excitement  Bill  took 


334  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

the  gold  nuggets  to  the  Reagans,  as  herein  before  related.    This 
is  the  true  story  of  the  lost  gold  mine. 

Another  phase :  Wilson  and  Davenport  broke  up  some  of 
the  nuggets  and  gave  them  to  Joe  and  Will  Kincaid,  D.  S. 
Combs  and  Capt.  Alfred  Wallace,  who  sent  them  over  to  have 
them  assayed.  The  nuggets  were  very  rich  and  when  the  assay 
statements  came  back  the  men  demanded  of  Wilson  and  Daven- 
port to  be  shown  where  the  vein  was.  At  last  the  story  of  the 
assay  and  rich  mine  went  abroad  and  the  joke  came  out. 

The  peculiar  thing  about  the  story  is,  that  one  man  who  was 
in  on  the  joke,  in  later  years  spent  a  thousand  dollars  to  locate 
the  lost  mine. 

When  the  people  of  Alpine  stand  with  uncovered  heads  some 
of  these  days,  to  listen  to  the  dedicating  services  held  at  the  Sul 
Ross  Normal,  in  every  heart  there  should  be  gratitude  to  a 
fellow  citizen  of  theirs  to  whose  influence  and  untiring  efforts  is 
due  the  principal  credit  for  what  will  be  that  great  West  Texas 
school.  Mr.  J.  D.  Jackson  is  the  man  to  whom  reference  is 
made.  He  is  the  father  of  the  institution. 

Mr.  Jackson  was  brought  up  without  the  advantage  of  edu- 
cation. He  made  the  West  his  home  when  it  was  only  a  wil- 
derness and  school  houses  were  far  apart.  But  in  spite  of 
that  fact  he  is  a  friend  to  the  great  cause  and  has  placed  this 
star  in  the  West,  by  spending  time  and  money  and  labor  in  that 
direction.  He  does  not  want  the  younger  people  of  this  day  to 
battle  their  way  up  as  he  has  done,  without  having  an  oppor- 
tunity to  attend  good  schools  and  receive  proper  training 
there. 

To  the  man  who  is  informed  and  who  appreciates  the  right 
kind  of  efforts,  Sul  Ross  Normal  will  stand  out  there  at  the 
summit  of  the  great  State  of  Texas,  out  there  on  the  eternal 
roof  garden,  as  a  monument  to  the  endeavor  of  this  plain  but 
honorable  and  able  cowman,  who  has  accumulated  one  of  the 
big  fortunes  of  the  State. 

Alpine  gets  this  normal  because  Joe  Jackson  took  the  time 
from  his  own  business  and  made  the  dream  of  the  little  city 
come  true.  His  heart  beat  in  the  right  place  and  unselfishly 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  335 

he  began  putting  his  mind  and  influence  to  work  in  that  direc- 
tion and  he  never  stopped,  he  never  laid  down  until  the  thing 
,  he  went  after  had  been  lariated  and  tied  so  that  it  could  not 
get  away. 

The  people  of  Alpine  claim  to  have  the  greatest  health  resort 
anywhere  in  Texas  or  outside.  Apparently  no  one  ever  thinks 
of  dying  out  there,  life  on  a  plateau  having  so  many  delights. 
The  altitude  is  4,500  feet  above  sea  level  and  the  winters  are 
mild  because  the  mountains  to  the  north  act  as  a  barrier  against 
the  north  winds  and  Alpine  does  not  suffer  from  blasting  blows. 
For  this  reason  it  is  expected  that  many  students  will  flock  from 
the  lowlands  to  study  amid  healthful  surroundings,  so  that 
when  they  are  ready  to  teach  they  may  present  a  certificate  of 
perfect  health  as  one  of  their  qualifications. 

Alpine  is  located  at  the  junction  of  the  two  trunk  lines,  the 
main  line  of  the  coast-to-coast  Southern  Pacific  line  and  the 
main  line  of  the  Orient  railway,  sometime  to  be  extended 
through  Mexico  to  the  Pacific  coast.  That  it  is  the  logical  place 
for  a  normal  college  is  attested  by  the  fact  that  it  was  named  in 
the  bill,  the  unanimous  choice  of  the  forty-four  counties  within 
its  area,  and  the  only  requirement  was  that  Alpine  should  give 
the  site  and  that  it  should  be  no  less  than  100  acres  of  the  best 
land  obtainable  within  three  miles  of  the  city.  The  local  pride 
of  Alpine  in  the  college  insured  the  selection  of  the  best  site 
that  could  be  had.  One  hundred  acres  at  the  edge  of  town,  a 
beautiful  location,  was  donated  by  W.  B.  Hancock,  another 
prominent  ranchman. 

There  are  71,000  scholastics  in  the  district  that  will  be  spe- 
cially served  by  this  normal  college.  For  the  benefit  of  any 
who  may  think  Alpine  is  located  on  the  Rio  Grande  overlooking 
the  plains  of  Mexico,  it  is  stated  that  while  Brewster  County 
has  a  3OO-mile  front  along  the  Rio  Grande  the  city  of  Alpine 
is  no  miles  from  the  river,  or  only  thirty  miles  closer  to  the 
border  than  the  city  of  San  Antonio. 

Alpine  is  445  miles  distant  from  San  Marcos,  the  site  of 
the  Southwest  Texas  Normal  School,  and  600  miles  from 
Canyon  City,  where  the  Northwest  Texas  Normal  is  located. 


336  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

The  city  of  El  Paso,  with  approximately  100,000  inhabitants, 
is  228  miles  west  of  Alpine. 

The  special  need  of  Sul  Ross  Normal  College  is  not  only 
for  the  real  West  Texas,  but  it  is  also  needed  to  raise  the  stand- 
ard of  education  in  Texas,  which  now  ranks  thirty-eighth  in 
the  galaxy  of  states.  The  State  of  Massachusetts  ranks  first 
and  has  ten  normal  schools,  which  send  teachers  to  all  parts  of 
the  United  States.  The  population  of  Massachusetts  is  about 
1,000,000  less  than  Texas  and  she  has  about  400,000  less  scho- 
lastics, notwithstanding  that  the  scholastic  age  is  8  to  20  years, 
as  against  7  to  17  in  Texas.  West  Texas  contains  about  one- 
third  of  the  population  of  Texas,  yet  the  only  normal  west  of 
the  QSth  parallel  is  in  the  Panhandle. 

The  territory  about  Alpine  has  come  into  prominence  for 
its  fruit  during  the  last  few  years,  apples,  peaches,  apricots, 
pears,  grapes,  berries  and  melons  being  grown  in  unsurpassed 
quality.  The  first  stratum  of  water  is  obtained  at  a  depth  of 
forty-three  feet,  the  second  at  eighty  feet,  and  both  are  said  to 
be  pure  free-stone  water  in  inexhaustible  quantity.  The  abun- 
dance of  water,  coupled  with  the  high  altitude,  has  given  the 
stimulus  to  fruit  growing. 

The  finest  marble  quarries  in  the  country  are  near  Alpine 
and  should  it  be  desired  it  would  be  possible  to  construct  the 
buildings  of  the  Sul  Ross  Normal  College  of  marble  at  com- 
paratively small  expense. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  337 


CHAPTER  XXVI 

He  was  a  smallish  man,  slight  built  and  almost  frail  looking, 
with  earnest,  deep  blue  eyes  which  in  the  later  years  of  his  life, 
were  almost  hidden  behind  heavy  glasses.  He  usually  wore 
black — usually,  because  ofttimes  he  wore  overalls ;  for  this  Man 
of  God  disdained  not  to  work  with  his  hands.  And  as  he 
wrought  great  changes  in  the  spiritual  life  of  the  pioneers  in 
the  Davis  Mountains  and  the  Big  Bend  country,  so  did  he  leave 
evidence  of  his  work  in  an  organization — the  Bloys  Campmeet- 
ing  Association — which  has  stood  for  thirty  years  a  guide-post 
pointing  towards  a  higher  plane  of  Christianity. 

Dr.  William  B.  Bloys  was  born  January  26,  1847,  in  Carroll 
County,  Tennessee,  and  died  at  Fort  Davis,  Texas,  on  March 
22,  1917,  in  his  seventieth  year.  During  the  first  years  of  his 
majority  he  taught  school  and  helped  his  father  on  the  farm. 
At  the  age  of  thirty-two  he  graduated  from  Lane's  Seminary, 
Cincinnati,  Ohio,  and  took  up  the  work  of  a  Presbyterian  Home 
Missionary.  On  May  26,  1879,  he  married  Miss  Isabelle  Cath- 
erine Yeck ;  and  immediately  the  young  couple  moved  to  Cole- 
man,  Texas,  where  for  nine  years  Dr.  Bloys  performed  the 
duties  of  minister  before  coming  to  the  Davis  Mountains. 

The  direct  cause  for  this  westward  move  was  the  ill  health 
of  the  young  minister.  The  Merrills  had  moved  from  Coleman 
to  the  Davis  Mountains  to  eng-.^e  in  ranching.  At  that  time 
there  was  no  minister  or  chaplain  at  Fort  Davis  and  it  took  but 
little  persuasion  on  the  part  of  the  Merrills  to  induce  Doctor 
Bloys  to  enter  the  new  field.  For  twenty-nine  years  the  spirit 
and  teachings  of  this  wonderful  man  influenced  the  lives  of  the 
people  in  Southwest  Texas.  To-day,  and  with  each  succeeding 
year,  although  Doctor  Bloys  has  passed  to  the  Great  Beyond, 
the  influence  of  his  teachings  become  stronger  and  stronger. 

A  description  of  the  last  campmeeting  at  which  Doctor  Bloys 


338  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

officiated  appeared  in  the  San  Antonio  Express,  Sunday,  Sep- 
tember 10,  1916: 

"With  the  mountains  towering  in  silent  grandeur  above  the 
tent-dotted  grove  of  live  oaks  and  the  very  air  charged  with  the 
Spirit  of  the  Hills,  the  Bloys  Campmeeting  Association  held  its 
annual  campmeeting  in  Skillman's  Grove,  Davis  Mountains, 
sixteen  miles  west  of  Fort  Davis,  August  23  to  29,  inclusive. 
Here  gathered  the  local  ranchmen's  families  who  lived  in  a 
radius  of  fifty  miles,  visitors  from  Valentine,  Marfa,  Alpine, 
Fort  Stockton,  and  Marathon,  as  well  as  those  who  came  in 
automobiles  from  Pecos,  Midland,  and  Abilene — a  distance  of 
two  hundred  miles  and  more. 

"Twenty-nine  years  ago,  Dr.  W.  B.  Bloys,  a  Presbyterian 
home  missionary,  conceived  the  idea  of  holding  an  annual  camp- 
meeting,  to  which  the  scattered  ranchmen  and  cowboys  could 
come  once  a  year  to  hear  the  Gospel  preached ;  and  with  a  hand- 
ful of  ranchmen,  the  nucleus  of  the  present  great  association 
was  formed.  This  was  in  1890.  To-day,  the  influence  of  this 
splendid  work  is  evidenced  by  the  high  class  of  citizenry  in  the 
Fort  Davis  country. 

"In  time  the  needs  of  the  campmeeting  grew  to  such  propor- 
tions that  it  became  necessary  to  establish  and  maintain  a  regu- 
larly equipped  camp  ground.  The  first  move  made  in  this 
direction  was  to  buy  640  acres  of  land,  in  the  heart  of  which 
was  a  beautiful  grove  of  live  oaks — Skillman's  Grove.  Im- 
provements have  been  continually  added,  until  now  the  camp 
ground  has  every  modern  convenience — water  system,  with 
pipes  running  to  each  camp,  a  spacious  tabernacle,  with  lighting 
system,  storehouses,  and,  in  many  instances,  concrete  flooring 
and  sidewalks  for  the  tents. 

"Each  old  family  has  its  arbor,  under  which  the  heads  of 
the  house  form  a  center  for  both  the  religious  and  social  life 
about  them.  The  Evans,  Means,  Jones,  Merrills,  Medleys, 
Prudes,  Gilletts,  all  stand  out  as  leaders  and  as  examples  of 
the  kind  of  men  and  women  Christianity  in  the  broadest,  truest 
sense  develops.  Here  reigns  hospitality  and  sociability  in  an 
almost  ideal  state.  The  word  'stranger*  is  a  misnomer,  for 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  339 

one  immediately  feels  at  home,  and  though  one  may  not  be  able 
to  call  each  individual  by  name,  yet  the  hospitality  and  socia- 
bility is  so  pronounced  that  the  formality  of  an  introduction  is 
dispensed  with.  Some  of  these  camps  comprise  nearly  three 
hundred  members,  including  guests  and  the  family — the  Evans- 
Means  camp  is  as  great  as  this,  while  the  W.  T.  Jones  camp 
follows  a  close  second.  The  other  camps  range  from  twenty- 
five  to  fifty  persons. 

"But  how  conditions  have  changed,  with  the  coming  of 
automobiles,  of  telephones,  of  modern  camp  appliances !  The 
thrill  one  experiences  on  hearing  these  old  leaders  tell  of  the 
hardships  and  inconveniences  they  suffered  then,  in  the  early 
days  of  the  camp  meeting ;  how  they  rode  overland  in  covered 
wagons  and  on  horseback  for  days  and  days  to  reach  the  camp 
ground!  To-day,  each  family  has  two  or  more  automobiles, 
in  which  they  may  leave  their  homes  and  arrive  at  the  grounds 
after  a  few  hours'  pleasant  drive  over  the  best  natural  roads 
in  the  world.  Through  telephone  and  telegraph  communication 
with  the  outside  world  they  are  enabled  to  keep  in  close  touch 
with  daily  happenings. 

"When  the  results  of  the  United  States  senatorial  race 
reached  San  Antonio  every  man  in  camp  soon  knew  of  it ;  daily 
live  stock  market  reports  were  received,  and  one  never  feels  that 
sense  of  isolation  which  usually  comes  with  being  'far  from 
the  madding  crowd.'  But  all  this  is  inevitably  true,  for  these 
religious  folk  are  a  business  folk  as  well,  and  many  millions  of 
dollars  are  represented  by  the  various  families. 

"The  Association  is  nonsectarian.  Any  denomination  having 
a  representation  in  the  community  may  have  its  minister  in  the 
pulpit.  At  present  four  denominations  are  represented — the 
Presbyterian,  Methodist,  Baptist,  and  Christian.  This  shows 
the  broadmindedness  of  the  founders  of  the  association.  No 
expense  is  spared  to  bring  before  the  people  the  ablest  and 
best  pulpit  orators  to  be  had.  And  very  wisely  the  directors  of 
the  Association  follow  the  plan  of  withholding  the  name  of 
the  immediate  occupant  of  the  pulpit  until  the  service  has 
begun.  This  eliminated  the  probability  of  those  staying  away 


340  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

from  services  not  conducted  by  a  minister  of  their  particular 
denomination.  This  year  the  services  were  conducted  by  Dr. 
S.  J.  Porter,  pastor  of  the  First  Baptist  Church,  San  Antonio ; 
Dr.  John  H.  Burma,  formerly  pastor  of  the  Second  Presby- 
terian Church,  Dallas,  and  now  vice  president  of  Dubuque 
College,  Dubuque,  Iowa ;  Dr.  C.  S.  Wright,  vice  president  of 
the  Southern  Methodist  University,  Dallas,  and  Rev.  H.  M. 
Bandy,  of  Alpine. 

"But  mention  of  that  grand  old  man,  Dr.  William  B.  Bloys, 
who  has  been  the  spiritual  father  of  every  man,  woman,  and 
child  in  the  community  for  over  thirty  years,  must  not  be 
omitted.  He  is  growing  old  now,  but  the  same  indomitable 
will  to  serve  his  Master  which  has  won  him  the  title,  'The 
Little  Father  of  the  Hills/  is  apparent  in  his  every  act  and 
word.  An  incident  which  occurred  at  the  business  meeting  of 
the  Association  will  illustrate  the  place  he  occupies  in  the  hearts 
of  these  great,  rough  men,  over  whom  he  has  held  spiritual 
sway  for  so  long. 

"In  a  speech  he  explained  the  expediency  of  electing  an- 
other and  younger  man  to  fill  his  place — that  of  superintendent 
of  the  meetings.  For  some  moments  after  he  had  begun  to 
speak  his  hearers  did  not  catch  the  drift  of  his  remarks ;  but 
when  the  idea  entered  their  heads  that  their  leader,  the  man 
who  stood  for  all  that  was  good  and  beneficial,  was  trying  to 
resign,  with  one  voice  the  members  of  the  Association  cried  him 
down.  Nor  would  they  hear  to  him  breaking  in  a  new  man  to 
fill  his  place.  John  Means,  whose  brand  is  carried  by  thousands 
of  cattle,  shouted  above  the  uproar,  'Sit  down,  Bloys,  there'll 
be  plenty  of  time  to  elect  your  successor  when  you're  gone !' 
A  remark  made  by  one  of  the  old  pioneers  unwittingly  shows 
the  individuality  of  'The  Little  Father*  and  the  hold  he  has  upon 
the  great  hearts  of  the  hardy  mountain  folk.  An  old  settler 
was  telling  Dr.  Wright  of  the  Southern  Methodist  University 
how  much  he  enjoyed  the  privilege  of  listening  to  the  big  men 
of  the  pulpit  who  came  from  afar  to  preach.  'But/  concluded 
the  frank  old  man,  'I'd  ruther  hear  Parson  Bloys  make  his 
announcements  than  t'  hear  the  whole  bunch  of  you  preach/ 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  341 

"In  point  of  attendance,  Sunday  was  the  big  day.  As  early 
as  9  o'clock  cars  began  to  top  the  low  summit  of  the  pass  to 
the  westward  and  to  sweep  into  camp  with  a  last  burst  of  speed, 
while  shouts  of  welcome  answered  the  discordant  sound  of  auto 
claxons,  as  long-parted  friends  sighted  one  another.  Here  Bill 
met  John  for  the  first  time  since  the  last  campmeeting,  and  Mrs. 
Bill  reminded  Mrs.  John  of  her  promise  made  the  year  before 
to  eat  Sunday  dinner  with  her.  By  the  time  the  n  o'clock 
service  was  ready  to  begin  there  could  be  seen  two  hundred 
automobiles — 'sixes'  and  'eights/  if  you  please,  with  a  few 
'fours'  and  'twelves'  scattered  throughout  the  ensemble. 

"Thickly  packed  around  the  tabernacle,  the  sides  and  ends 
of  which  were  raised  to  resemble  a  porch  roof,  cars  were  parked 
so  the  occupants  could  sit  comfortably  in  their  seats  and  hear 
every  word  spoken  from  the  pulpit.  The  interior  of  the  tab- 
ernacle was  crowded,  although  Dr.  Bloys  was  careful  to  see 
that  none  should  have  to  stand  who  cared  to  sit.  Trust  that 
grand  old  man  for  that!  Then  began  a  service  which  surely 
must  have  impressed  every  listener  for  the  dignity,  simplicity* 
and  earnestness  evinced  by  those  who  took  a  part.  A  folk 
surely  partake  of  their  surroundings,  and  here  in  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  spots  imaginable,  pressed  to  the  bosom  of  the 
majestic  mountains  and  drinking  the  pure,  fresh  air  into  their 
lungs,  these  people  have  found  cause  to  thank  God  for  His 
goodness. 

"After  the  forenoon  service  a  rush  for  the  various  camps 
took  place.  But  no  fear,  there  was  enough  for  all — and  more. 
How  one's  appetite  is  increased  by  the  invigorating  mountain 
air !  In  one  camp  the  hungry  diners  ate  thirty-nine  cakes,  and 
that  after  having  partaken  of  the  loads  of  good  things  which 
went  before.  In  the  combined  camps  two  whole  beeves  were 
consumed  in  this  great  dinner,  while  twenty-three  were  butch- 
ered in  the  seven  days  the  meeting  lasted.  A  popular  fallacy 
exists  in  the  minds  of  many  people  about  ranchmen  having 
nothing  but  condensed  milk,  if  any,  and  living  out  of  tin  cans. 
That  condition  may  obtain  in  some  places,  but  on  the  long 
tables  placed  beneath  the  arbors  of  the  different  camps  one 


342  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

could  find  preserves  made  from  grape,  plum,  peach,  and  apricot, 
the  finest  yellow  butter,  sweet  milk,  buttermilk,  and  cream  for 
the  coffee — and  such  coffee !  No  one  can  boil  a  pot  of  coffee 
like  the  plainsman,  as  all  who  have  partaken  thereof  can  testify. 

"When  one  considers  that  five  services  are  held  daily,  the 
opportunity  for  much  social  life  seems  limited.  But  here  the 
social  life  is  subordinated  to  the  religious,  and  this  tends  to  en- 
courage sociability.  For  among  these  Christian  people,  as 
among  other  groups  of  people  of  common  sympathy,  there 
exists  a  bond  of  brotherhood,  of  free  masonry,  which  brings 
together  those  of  the  same  belief.  The  social  life  here  is  found 
in  its  purest  and  best  state  and,  while  dozens  of  marriages 
are  brought  about  through  the  young  people  being  thrown  to- 
gether at  the  campmeetings,  yet  the  divorce  evil  is  practically 
unknown.  A  healthy  body  begets  pure  thoughts  and  here, 
favored  by  climate  and  surroundings,  the  young  men  and 
young  women  grow  up  free  from  so  many  of  the  evils  and 
temptations  which  are  the  continual  ban  of  parents  in  more 
thickly  settled  communities. 

"Many  incidents  occurred  during  the  campmeeting  which 
showed  the  wholesome,  healthy  temper  of  these  big  people 
of  a  big  country.  One  night,  while  a  solo  was  being  sung  by 
one  of  the  choir,  the  lights  grew  dim  and  then  with  a  last 
flareup,  went  out.  The  audience  immediately  became  restless, 
chairs  scraped  against  the  floor  as  many  started  to  rise  and  a 
murmur  of  dismay  ran  through  the  house.  But  the  soloist 
with  unusual  presence  of  mind  and  without  a  single  faltering 
note,  continued  the  sacred  song. 

"The  accompanist  at  the  piano  played  on ;  from  somewhere 
an  electric  flashlight  was  produced,  then  another  and  another; 
the  singing  continued,  lanterns  were  brought  quickly  from  the 
nearest  camps,  autos  were  driven  alongside  the  tabernacle  and 
their  headlights  turned  on  the  assembly;  order  was  restored 
and  Doctor  Bloys  rose  and  announced  that  Doctor  Porter,  of 
San  Antonio,  would  deliver  the  sermon. 

"But  the  incident  did  not  close  with  this.  Several  men  had 
gone  quietly  to  the  gas-house  to  locate  the  trouble  and  Doctor 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  343 

Porter  had  read  several  verses  of  his  text  when,  suddenly,  a 
dull  report,  accompanied  by  a  blinding  flash  of  light,  came  from 
the  gas-house,  and  again  a  commotion  ensued.  Many  of  the 
men  broke  for  the  explosion,  fearing  for  the  safety  of  those 
who  had  gone  first  to  investigate  the  trouble,  while  the  others 
served  to  quiet  the  stampeding  audience. 

"In  a  few  moments  word  was  brought  that  none  had  been 
injured  in  the  explosion  and  order  was  again  restored.  For 
the  second  time  Doctor  Porter  rose,  after  having  been  so 
rudely  interrupted,  and  in  five  minutes  he  had  the  perturbed 
audience  under  the  spell  of  his  magnetic  voice. 

"It  stands  to  reason  that  it  takes  large  sums  of  money  to 
foot  the  bills  for  a  campmeeting  conducted  on  such  a  large 
scale.  But  each  man  carries  a  checkbook  and  he  makes  use  of 
it.  At  one  of  the  afternoon  prayer-meetings  for  men,  George 
Evans,  owner  of  the  EV  Ranch,  made  the  suggestion  that  those 
present — twenty-eight  in  number — make  a  little  donation  for 
the  Buckner's  Orphan  Home,  at  Dallas,  to  help  relieve  the 
epidemic  of  typhoid  fever  prevalent  among  the  orphans.  The 
checkbooks  were  called  into  play  and  four  hundred  dollars 
were  raised  in  less  time  than  it  takes  to  tell  it.  That  is  the 
way  these  people  do  things. 

"When  the  Association  was  formed,  there  were  only  three 
professed  Christians  in  the  community,  one  of  whom  was 
Doctor  Bloys,  who  had  come  to  Fort  Davis  as  a  home  mis- 
sionary in  the  early  eighties.  But  the  other  settlers,  com- 
ing as  they  had  from  Christian  homes,  realized  the  advantages 
to  be  derived  from  Christian  influence,  and  one  and  all  joined 
in  the  movement.  To-day  these  old  families  are  represented  by 
three  generations,  and  95  per  cent  of  them  belong  to  some 
church.  One  wonders  at  this  until  the  mountains  lay  their 
hold  upon  him,  then  he  wonders  no  longer. 

"Fort  Davis  is  called  the  'Mile-High  Town/  and  as  you 
go  westward  toward  Skillman's  Grove,  you  rise  to  an  altitude 
of  6,000  feet.  In  every  direction,  the  eye  is  met  by  scenery 
unequalled  by  any  other  in  the  State.  It  is  a  land  of  immense 
valleys  and  high  mountains.  In  these  valleys  and  on  the  moun- 


344  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

tainsides,  grow  the  famous  black  grama  grass,  on  which  graze 
the  herds  of  cattle  that  have  made  the  community  so  wealthy. 
It  is  a  country  of  large  ranches,  and  on  these  reside  a  people 
who  have  never  felt  the  cramping  littleness  of  more  thickly 
settled  communities.  They  are  literally  'monarchs  of  all  they 
survey/  And  when  these  people  come  together,  let  it  be  either 
for  business  or  for  pleasure,  they  enter  into  the  spirit  of  the 
occasion  with  all  the  strength  and  vim  which  comes  from  clean, 
moral  living. 

"Probably  the  most  impressive  service  of  the  campmeet- 
ing  was  the  one  held  at  8:30  Tuesday  morning,  just  before 
breaking  camp.  This  last  service  is  always  conducted  by  Doc- 
tor Bloys,  in  person,  while  each  of  the  ministers  who  have 
taken  part  in  the  services  have  an  opportunity  to  say  a  farewell 
word.  Everyone  was  in  a  hurry,  apparently  from  impatience 
to  get  back  home,  but  in  reality  dreading  the  leaves-taking  which 
would  separate  them  from  their  friends  for  another  long  year. 
Those  new  converts  who  had  not  already  been  received  in  the 
church  were  now  taken  into  membership,  and  the  emotions  of 
the  people  were  thinly  veiled.  Just  after  the  final  benediction, 
some  of  the. older  men  could  have  been  seen  slipping  quietly 
away.  These  men,  who  could  be  shrewd  and  hard  when  a 
cow  deal  was  on,  were  too  deeply  touched  to  undergo  the  last 
goodbye.  After  a  few  moments  in  the  tabernacle,  the  break- 
ing-up  of  camp  began,  and  the  twenty-sixth  annual  camp- 
meeting  of  the  Bloys  Campmeeting  Association  had  closed." 

At  the  annual  campmeeting,  held  in  August,  1917,  a  com- 
mittee was  appointed  to  select  a  suitable  monument  to  be 
erected  on  the  campmeeting  grounds  in  memory  of  their  beloved 
leader.  At  the  time  the  selection  was  being  made  the  opinions 
of  the  committeemen  were  divided  in  regard  to  the  kind  of 
stone,  design,  etc.,  which  should  be  used.  One  or  two  of  the 
committeemen  were  in  favor  of  an  artistically  ornamented 
obelisk,  with  lighting  fixtures,  so  placed  that  the  monument 
could  be  lit  up  at  night.  But  one  of  the  old  cowmen  present 
raised  strenuous  objections.  In  a  speech  he  voiced  these 
objections  and  closed  by  saying — "We  want  a  monument  just 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  345 

like  Brother  Bloys,  simple,  strong,  and  solid,  from  top  to 
bottom." 

And  to-day  such  a  stone  as  this  stands  in  the  heart  of  the 
campmeeting  grounds,  to  which  every  man  and  woman  who  has 
known  and  loved  the  "Father  of  the  Hills"  may  point  with 
pride. 

Among  the  treasured  keepsakes  found  after  Doctor  Bloys' 
death,  there  was  a  scrap-book,  in  the  fly-leaf  of  which  was 
found  a  preface  written  in  the  smooth,  round  handwriting 
of  the  minister.  One  can  not  read  this  without  feeling  the 
simplicity,  the  kindliness,  and  the  strength  of  the  man.  It 
reads : 

"Preface  to  the  first  edition :  Well,  I  am  once  again  to  be 
an  author.  I  say  again,  because  I  have  been  an  author  at  vari- 
ous and  sundry  times  since  babyhood.  In  the  young,  tender 
years  of  life,  when  the  time  seemed  long  from  one  Christmas 
to  another,  when  peach  tree  switches  were  constantly  in  vogue 
and  other  kinds,  too ;  when  the  mud  puddles  were  sources  of 
delight  and  the  face  washing  was  torture ;  in  those  tender  years, 
I  say,  if  any  mischief  was  done  about  the  house  or  premises 
it  was  unanimously  attributed  to  me. 

"So  you  see,  although  so  young,  I  was  an  author  of  some 
repute.  From  that  time  to  this  I  have  been  an  author  in 
various  ways.  As  with  other  authors  the  times  have  varied ; 
sometimes  up,  sometimes  down;  sometimes  dark  days,  some- 
times bright;  but  the  bright  days  have  outnumbered  the  dark 
ones. 

"But  I  am  now  to  be  an  author  in  an  especial  sense.  I  am  to 
make  a  book,  and  this  is  the  preface.  Why  preface?  What 
did  Herodotus  and  Cicero  and  Demosthenes  and  Macaulay 
and  Mark  Twain  and  all  those  other  fellows  write  a  preface  for? 

"I  am  not  to  worry  my  brain  with  thinking  and  thinking 
and  thinking,  as  some  other  authors  are  supposed  to  do ;  I  am 
not  to  banish  the  family  from  the  house  so  that  it  can  be  quiet ; 
I  am  not  to  burn  the  midnight  oil  in  poring  'over  many  a  quaint 
and  curious  volume  of  forgotten  lore/  to  get  the  knowledge  to 
put  into  a  book.  No,  sir,  or  madam,  as  the  case  may  be,  I  am 


346  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

to  gather  the  chapters  together  and  throw  them  into  a  book 
as  so  many  chips  into  a  basket. 

"Every  chapter  will  be  on  a  different  theme.  Some  authors 
make  a  whole  book  with  only  one  theme;  but  I  like  a  book 
with  a  good  many  themes.  It  affords  variety,  and  variety,  as 
you  may  have  heard,  is  the  spice  of  life. 

"There  are  to  be  some  rare  gems  in  this  book  of  mine, 
and  some  that  are  not  worth  much.  I  put  them  in  for  the  reason 
that  editors  put  so  much  useless  trash  in  the  papers,  to  fill  up 
space.  Some  of  these  came  to  me  from  loved  ones  whose  faces 
I  shall  see  no  more,  whose  memory  will  ever  be  green  and  fresh 
in  my  mind.  Some  of  them  I  gleaned  from  newspapers  and 
from  other  sources.  I  don't  know  how  I  came  by  the  rest  of 
them. 

"This  is  the  first  preface  I  ever  wrote.  It  may  be  the  last, 
I  don't  know.  I  make  no  rash  promises ;  but  I  thought  an 
innocent  and  unsuspecting  public  ought  to  know  some  of  my 
reasons  for  sending  this  book  out  into  the  world.  Besides  I 
have  little  use  for  that  class  of  authors  who  are  ashamed 
of  their  productions  and  write  under  a  nom  de  plume.  I  don't 
want  any  'plume*  at  all.  I  want  the  facts  to  be  known,  the 
truth  to  shine  out,  and  to  that  I  am  not  ashamed  to  put  my  name, 
which  is  W.  B.  B. 

"To  her,  who  one  sweet  May  day  plighted  her  troth  with  me, 
who  since  then  has  walked  with  me  through  light  and  storm, 
sometimes  I  the  oak,  she  the  clinging  vine;  sometimes  I  the 
vine,  she  the  strong  oak ;  to  her,  the  patient  mother  and  wife, 
this  volume  of  scraps  is  most  respectfully  dedicated  by  the 
Author." 

On  August  19,  1917,  the  regular  three  o'clock  service  at  the 
campmeeting  was  changed  to  a  Memorial  Service  for  Doctor 
Bloys.  This  service  was  opened  with  Dr.  C.  S.  Wright  read- 
ing from  the  Scriptures,  then  Dr.  John  H.  Burma  made  the 
memorial  address.  Following  this  Captain  J.  B.  Gillett,  C.  O. 
Finley,  and  J.  W.  Merrill  spoke  feelingly  out  of  their  great 
knowledge  of  the  man.  After  this  Doctor  Truett,  of  Dallas, 
made  the  closing  talk.  In  substance,  the  symposium  of  their 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  347 

remarks  was  as  follows :  Dominant  trait  of  character ;  strong 
conviction  that  he  was  born  to  lead  a  people  out  of  a  second 
Israel ;  simplicity,  energy,  and  optimism,  which  knew  no  limit, 
and  great  common  sense,  which  made  him  tolerant  of  others' 
beliefs  so  long  as  they  worked  for  the  common  cause — the 
cause  of  Christ.  Doctor  Burma  stated  that  Doctor  Bloys  had 
summed  it  up  thus,  "All  denominations  serve  their  purposes  in 
the  sight  of  God,  each  one  being  an  instrument  in  the  hands  of 
the  Lord,  and  so  long  as  each  instrument  is  useful  the  Lord  will 
take  care  of  it.  Why,  then,  should  the  power  of  one  instrument 
be  used  to  lessen  the  power  of  another?" 

In  a  letter  to  a  friend,  C.  E.  Way,  first  county  clerk  of 
Brewster  County,  makes  this  mention  of  Doctor  Bloys:  "A 
history  of  the  Big  Bend  country  would  be  incomplete  without 
mention  of  the  late  William  B.  Bloys.  I  heard  the  first  sermon 
he  preached  in  Alpine.  Later  we  became  warm  and  steadfast 
friends.  He  lives  in  my  memory  as  the  most  consistent  and 
unselfish  Christian  character  I  have  ever  known.  The  roughest 
characters  of  those  rough  days  were  ready  to  fight  for  him. 

"Aside  from  the  great  strength  of  his  Christian  character, 
he  was  a  man  absolutely  void  of  physical  fear.  I  do  not  think 
he  knew  what  the  sensation  of  fear  was  like.  I  sometimes  think 
his  great  success  in  the  West  was  attributable  to  this  trait  of 
his  character.  Courage  always  appeals  to  the  men  of  the  West. 

"Wherever  his  duty  called  him,  there  he  would  go.  I  have 
seen  him  walk  into  a  saloon  full  of  drunken  men,  who  were 
yelling  and  cursing.  When  he  appeared  in  the  doorway  every 
curse  was  hushed ;  glasses  half  raised  to  cursing  lips  were 
lowered ;  profanity  died  half  spoken,  and  gambling  games  sus- 
pended operations.  After  speaking  with  whom  he  had  business, 
with  a  friendly  nod  he  went  his  way. 

"The  good  he  left  as  a  legacy  to  the  people  will  never  die. 
From  the  depth  of  my  love  for  him  and  with  profound  sorrow 
at  his  demise,  I  pay  this  poor  tribute  to  his  greatness." 

A  picture:  Doctor  Bloys  standing  by  the  side  of  the  altar 
in  the  tabernacle  with  watch  in  hand.  Just  at  the  exact  minute 
the  service  is  to  begin,  he  raises  his  voice  in  a  command  that  can 


348  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

be  heard  in  all  parts  of  the  tabernacle — "It's  time  for  the  service 
to  begin."  Immediately  a  hush  falls  upon  the  assembly,  for 
in  that  little  body  was  the  spirit  that  commanded  and  demanded 
implicit  obedience. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  349 


CHAPTER  XXVII 

On  August  30,  1915,  Pasqual  Orozco,  the  notorious  Mexi- 
can rebel  leader,  together  with  four  followers,  was  killed  while 
resisting  arrest  two  miles  south  of  High  Lonesome  Peak,  Cul- 
berson  County,  by  a  posse  of  citizens. 

The  testimony  of  Will  H.  Schrock,  of  Sierre  Blanco,  was 
taken  by  Justice  of  the  Peace,  Tom  H.  Owens.  Mr.  Schrock 
gives  in  detail  the  incidents  surrounding  the  fight: 

"I  first  heard  of  the  Mexicans  when  I  drove  up  to  R.  C. 
Love's  ranch  about  I  p.  m.,  August  29.  August  Fransel  and 
Joe  Thomson  told  me  that  two  well-armed  Mexicans  had  ridden 
off  the  ranch  in  the  direction  of  the  Dick  Love  well.  Joe  also 
said  that  five  Mexicans  were  camped  at  this  new  well  and  that 
they  had  several  horses.  Joe  said  he  was  hunting  horses  and 
rode  up  to  a  loose  bunch  when  these  Mexicans  rose  up  and 
spoke  to  him  in  English,  saying,  'come  here/  He  said  he  went 
to  where  they  were  camped  and  they  asked  him  what  he  was 
looking  for.  He  replied  that  he  was  looking  for  horses. 
When  he  asked  them  what  they  wanted  with  him  they  told 
him  they  wanted  some  chuck. 

"  'All  right/  he  replied,  'come  with  me  to  the  ranch  and  I'll 
get  you  some  chuck/  Two  of  the  men,  one  with  black  leggings 
and  the  other  with  a  black  eye,  khaki  suit  and  tan  puttees,  went 
with  him  to  the  ranch.  When  they  dismounted  one  of  the 
Mexicans  told  Joe  to  shoe  his  horse,  which  Joe  did. 

"They  went  into  dinner  and  while  they  ate  they  constantly 
watched  the  roads  leading  to  the  ranch  house.  During  the  meal 
one  of  them  spied  three  men  coming  toward  the  house,  and 
said  in  Mexican,  'there  comes  three  men,  let's  go/  They 
jumped  up,  grabbed  their  Winchesters,  which  they  brought  in, 
and  ran  for  their  horses,  mounted,  and  rode  away. 

"About  fifteen  minutes  later  five  other  men  and  I  were  in  the 


350  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

saddle  hot  on  their  trail.  When  we  reached  the  point  where 
they  had  camped  the  night  before,  we  saw  them  going  east 
toward  the  Eagle  Mountains  and  they  were  'beating  them  on 
the  tail/  too.  They  reached  the  mountains  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  ahead  of  us  and  began  shooting  at  us.  I  lost  my  hat 
about  that  time  and  did  not  know  what  happened  for  awhile. 
They  fired  fifteen  or  twenty  shots,  which  caused  us  to  turn  back. 
They  kept  their  position  for  about  two  hours,  then  went  into 
Frenchman's  Well  Canyon.  We  trailed  them  into  the  canyon 
above  Frenchman's  Well,  but  darkness  stopped  us.  The  next 
morning  we  picked  up  the  trail  where  we  left  it,  followed  them 
through  the  mountains  and  on  to  where  we  found  them  about 
2  p.  m.,  August  30,  in  the  foothills  of  Van  Horn  Mountains, 
almost  due  south  of  High  Lonesome  Peak  and  about  one-half 
mile  from  Stephen's  tank. 

"There  a  posse  surrounded  them  and  they  made  fight.  Hid- 
ing behind  rocks  and  shooting  with  their  Winchesters,  they 
fought  until  they  were  all  dead.  They  were  all  armed  with 
practically  new  30-30  Marlin  rifles,  they  also  had  one,  and 
perhaps  more  pistols.  After  the  battle  we  found  in  their  pos- 
session about  1,000  rounds  of  30-30  cartridges.  We  also  found 
in  their  possession  two  horses  belonging  to  J.  E.  Marshall, 
G.  H.  &  S.  A.  Ry.  pumper  at  Ilaska,  Texas,  one  horse  owned  by 
Bob  Love,  which  had  been  taken  from  the  same  pasture.  They 
had  only  five  horses  with  them  so  far  as  I  know." 

(Signed)     W.  H.  Schrock. 

Following  the  killing  of  Orozco  comparative  quiet  reigned 
along  the  Rio  Grande  in  the  Big  Bend  until  the  world  was 
startled  by  the  Glenn  Springs  raid  and  massacre.  On  the  night 
of  May  5,  1916,  a  band  of  Mexican  outlaws,  both  Villistas  and 
Carranzistas,  led  by  Rodriguez  Ramierez,  raided  Glenn  Springs, 
or  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  McKinney  Springs.  Ramierez  was 
a  bandit  who  had  carefully  planned  the  raid  in  advance.  He 
had  gathered  seventeen  men  at  El  Peno  and  crossed  the  Rio 
Grande  at  the  Teague  ranch,  twenty-five  miles  above  Glenn 
Springs.  He  remained  at  the  Teague  ranch  for  about  three 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  351 

days  for  the  purpose  of  recruiting  more  men  for  his  band. 
After  which  they  moved  down  the  Rio  Grande  recruiting  more 
men  all  the  while,  until  he  had  a  formidable  number,  including 
some  of  the  fiercest  outlaws  of  Mexico. 

A  number  of  the  bandits  crossed  the  river  near  San  Vincente 
and  divided;  whereupon  part  of  them  went  to  Glenn  Springs 
to  make  an  attack  and  the  other  detachment  went  to  the 
Deemer  store,  at  Boquillas,  to  loot.  The  attack  on  Glenn 
Springs  was  begun  at  n  o'clock,  when  the  Mexicans  attacked 
nine  men  of  the  I4th  Cavalry  under  the  command  of  Sergeant 
Smyth.  At  Glenn  Springs  besides  the  soldiers  were  E.  K. 
Ellis,  C.  G.  Compton,  a  small  daughter,  a  son  of  four  years, 
and  a  deaf  and  dumb  son  a  few  years  older.  About  1 1  o'clock 
the  Mexicans  slipped  into  the  village  and  took  a  position  fifty 
yards  from  the  store,  and  about  the  same  distance  from  a  two 
room  adobe  shack,  covered  with  a  tin  roof  over  which  was 
spread  candililla  weed  for  a  thatch.  Within  the  shack  were 
five  of  the  soldiers,  three  asleep  and  two  on  guard. 

Ellis  first  heard  the  battle  cry  of  the  Mexicans,  but  he  dared 
not  shoot  as  he  was  afraid  of  hitting  some  of  the  soldiers. 
The  Mexicans  obviously  were  there  for  the  main  purpose  of 
looting  the  store,  as  well  as  to  kill  the  soldiers  who  were 
guarding  the  place.  When  entering  the  village  they  stopped  at 
the  Compton  house,  seventy-five  feet  back  of  the  store,  and  in- 
quired if  soldiers  were  in  the  place.  Compton  answered  in 
the  negative,  hoping  perhaps  that  the  Mexicans  would  go  on 
and  be  killed  by  the  guards. 

Compton,  who  was  a  clerk  in  the  Ellis  store,  carried  his 
daughter  to  the  home  of  a  Mexican  woman  for  safe  keeping. 
He  left  his  two  sons  in  his  home,  and  during  the  night  when 
the  smaller  son,  four  years  old,  was  peeping  from  the  door,  a 
Mexican  standing  just  outside  of  the  wall  of  the  house,  fired 
and  killed  the  lad. 

The  soldiers  were  doing  all  in  their  power  to  defend  the 
place  but  their  number  was  too  small.  The  fight  continued 
until  2  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  a  short  time  before  the  Mexi- 
cans began  to  give  signals  to  depart  by  throwing  balls  of  red 


352  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

flannel  saturated  with  kerosene  oil  upon  the  thatched  roof  of 
the  soldiers'  shack.  The  candililla  weed  is  very  inflammable, 
and  as  the  thatched  roof  caught  fire,  a  flare  of  light  illuminated 
the  whole  village. 

It  was  necessary  for  the  soldiers  to  escape  or  be  butchered 
by  the  maddened  bandits.  To  do  this  it  was  necessary  to  run 
the  gantlet.  In  escaping,  one  of  the  soldiers  was  shot  and 
killed  while  jumping  through  a  window.  Coloe  was  killed 
about  fifty  yards  to  the  northwest  and  Rogers  was  only  on 
the  hillside  one  hundred  yards  away  before  he  was  downed. 
But  before  Rogers  died  he  killed  one  of  the  Mexicans.  When 
the  roof  of  the  shack  fell  in  two  of  the  soldiers  were  wounded 
by  bullets,  three  killed,  and  two  were  badly  burned.  On  the 
hillside  there  were  found  nine  pools  of  blood  other  than  those 
of  the  Americans,  indicating  the  death  of  as  many  Mexicans, 

The  other  body  of  Mexicans  who  had  gone  on  to  Boquillas 
were  equally  as  successful  in  raiding  Deemer's  store.  The  fol- 
lowing morning  they  crossed  the  Rio  Grande  to  the  Del  Carmen 
Mine  where  they  captured  all  the  American  employees  at  the 
mine.  They  took  the  provisions  from  the  mine  and  loaded  them 
on  a  large  truck ;  then  both  parties  of  Mexican  raiders  started 
on  their  return  trip  to  Mexico.  The  captured  Americans  were 
commanded  to  drive  the  truck. 

Determined  not  to  drive  the  truck  into  Mexico,  the  Ameri- 
cans ran  it  into  a  bad  crossing  near  Arroyo,  where  it  stuck  fast. 
There  were  only  four  of  the  bandits  with  the  Americans  at 
the  time,  and  they  were  made  to  believe  that  it  was  an  accident. 
The  Americans  then  asked  the  Mexicans  to  assist  them  in 
starting  the  truck  again.  The  Mexicans  complied,  and  at  a 
signal  they  were  seized  and  disarmed.  The  Americans  then 
started  on  foot  to  Boquillas,  bringing  their  prisoners  with  them. 
The  main  body  of  bandits  fled  to  El  Peno,  Chihuahua. 

The  following  is  the  report  sent  in  by  Captain  C.  W.  Cole, 
1 4th  Cavalry,  to  the  commanding  officer,  First  Provisional 
Squadron,  I4th  Cavalry,  Mar  fa,  Texas: 

I.  In  compliance  with  your  instructions  by  buzzer,  May  7, 
I  left  here  at  6 130  a.  m.,  in  an  automobile  with  Sheriff  Walton, 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  353 

of  Brewster  County,  Texas,  and  proceeded  to  Glenn  Springs, 
Texas,  via  Marathon,  arriving  at  Glenn  Springs  at  5  130  that 
afternoon. 

2.  There  were  nine  men  of  Troop  "A,"  I4th  Cavalry, 
in  the  detachment  at  Glenn  Springs  at  the  time  of  the  attack — 
Sergeant  Charles  E.   Smyth,   in  command;  Privates  Joseph 
Birck,  Stephen  J.  Coloe,  Frank  W.  Croskem,  William  Cohen, 
Frank  De  frees,   Charles  L.   Dempsey,   Hudson   Rogers,  and 
Roscoe  C.  Tyree. 

3.  The  attack  was  made  about  1 1 130,  May  5,  1916,  and  was 
first  discovered  by  the  two  men  on  guard,  Privates  Birck  and 
Cohen,  who  were  the  only  men  who  had  their  clothes  on.    The 
others  had  retired  for  the  night  and  were  in  their  underclothes 
and  barefooted.     When  the  attack  was  made  the  men  were 
distributed  as  follows:     Private  Birck  and  Cohen  on  guard 
and  near  horse  trap;  Sergeant  Smyth  and  Private  Rogers,  in 
the  adobe  building,  and  Private  Def  rees  lying  down  just  outside, 
Privates  Coloe,  Croskem,  Dempsey,  and  Tyree  were  in  the 
sleeping  tent.    The  bandits  made  the  attack  dismounted,  having 
left  their  horses  under  cover  some  distance  away  and  attack- 
ing from  three  sides — north,  west,  and  south,  at  a  distance 
varying  from  30  feet  to  200  yards.     When  the  action  was 
well  under  way  the  men  in  the  sleeping  tent  shouted  to  Ser- 
geant Smyth  that  they  were  going  to  make  a  rush  for  the  cook 
shack  and  to  open  the  door  for  them,  which  was  done.    It  was 
during  the  rush  that  Private  Birck  was  wounded.     Privates 
Croskem    and    Dempsey    went    into    the     forage    tent    in- 
stead   of    the    cook    shack,    where    they    remained    during 
the     fight,     shooting     through     the     holes     they     had     cut 
through  the  tent.    They  were  the  last  men  to  leave  the  scene 
for  the  shelter  of  the  hills.     The  bandits  were  held  off  until 
about  3  :oo  o'clock  the  next  morning,  when  they  succeeded  in 
setting  fire  to  the  candililla  which  had  been  put  on  the  sheet- 
iron  roof  as  a  protection  from  the  heat.     The  little  garrison 
held  out  until  the  most  of  them  were  literally  roasted,  then  a 
rush  was  made  for  the  hills.    Private  Cohen  attempted  to  get 
out  through  the  window  and  was  killed  with  a  shotgun  before 


354  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

he  ever  touched  the  ground.  Private  Coloe  was  killed  near  the 
corral,  and  Private  Rogers  about  three  hundred  yards  away, 
having  run  into  an  outpost.  The  others  reached  the  hills  in 
safety  and  kept  up  a  scattered  fire  until  the  bandits  left  shortly 
after  daylight.  When  the  firing  commenced  all  the  cavalry 
horses  were  in  the  small  corral  near  the  adobe  building,  but 
soon  after  broke  through  the  gate  into  the  pasture,  adjoining, 
where  they  were  rounded  up  by  the  bandits  shortly  after  day- 
light and  ridden  off  when  they  left. 

4.  Boquillas  was  attached  by  a  part  of  the  same  band  at 
daylight,  the  morning  of  the  6th  instant.    The  store  of  Jesse 
Deemer  was  looted  and  he  was  robbed  of  what  money  he  had. 
The  bandits  remained  in  the  vicinity  of  Boquillas  all  day  Friday 
and  were  joined  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning  by  about  forty 
men  who  had  participated  in  the  Glenn  Springs  attack.    That 
night  the  bandits  loaded  their  loot  on  wagons  and  pack  animals 
and  crossed  to  the  Mexican  side  of  the  river,  taking  Jesse 
Deemer,  Dr.  Homer  Powers,  Maurice  Paine,  a  negro,  and 
Pablo  Alcala,  Mexican  clerk  for  Deemer,  with  them. 

5.  Monday,  when  we  arrived  at  San  Vicente  and  Boquillas, 
both  were  deserted.     Careful  search  was  made  and  several 
papers,  a  note  book  and  other  evidences  of  the  raid  were  found, 
which  were  turned  over  to  you  on  the  loth  instant. 

6.  A  conservative  estimate  of  the  number  of  outlaws  par- 
ticipating in  both  raids,  Glenn  Springs  and  Boquillas,  is  200, 
and  that  probably  100  or   125  were  in  the  attack  at  Glenn 
Springs,  as  in  addition  to  those  actually  engaged  in  the  first 
attack  on  the  detachment  there.     The  entire  place  was  sur- 
rounded by  a  cordon  with  outposts  still  farther  out,  covering  all 
approaches.     From   the  meager  information   obtainable  the 
bandits  were  made  up  of  both  Villistas  and  Carranzistas,  with 
a  considerable  number  of  Mexicans  from  this  side  of  the  river, 
as  it  is  very  evident  that  a  part  of  them  were  thoroughly 
familiar  with  conditions,  size  of  garrison,  surroundings,  etc., 
in  the  vicinity.    Several  bandits  wore  masks  and  handkerchiefs 
over  their  faces,  which  would  indicate  that  they  feared  recog- 
nition.   During  the  fight  the  bandits  repeatedly  shouted  "Viva 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  355 

Carranza"  and  "Viva  Villa,"  showing  conclusively  that  repre- 
sentatives of  both  factions  were  present.  It  is  believed  that  most 
of  the  outlaws  came  from  the  vicinity  of  Torreon.  They  were 
reported  to  have  made  a  march  of  fifteen  days  before  reaching 
the  border  and  the  jaded  conditions  of  their  animals  tends  to 
prove  the  truth  of  the  report.  Upon  reaching  the  river  they 
were  joined  by  Mexicans  from  both  sides  and  the  crossing  made 
in  small  groups  of  twenty  or  twenty-five,  at  Boquillas,  San 
Vicente  and  near  the  Caulder,  Compton,  and  Solis  ranches.  At 
this  season  the  river  may  be  crossed  almost  anywhere.  The 
rendezvous  was  probably  at  some  point  near  and  south  of  Glenn 
Springs.  After  tl^e  raid  they  separated  into  small  bands  and 
recrossed  into  Mexico  at  approximately  the  same  points.  The 
raiders  had  wagons  and  pack  animals  with  them  to  carry  away 
their  loot  and  everything  indicates  a  well  arranged  and  care- 
fully planned  expedition. 

7.  The  bandits  were  supposed  to  have  been  led  by  one 
Lieutenant-Colonel  Nativided  Alvarez  of  the  constitutionalist 
army,  since  reported  captured  by  the  miners  on  the  Mexican 
side  and  turned  over  to  the  military  authorities  now  at  Boquillas. 
The  bodies  of  the  dead  Mexicans  were  found  in  the  candililla, 
about  75  yards  from  the  soldiers,  and  upon  one  of  them  was 
found  a  lieutenant's  commission,  bearing  the  name  of  Rodriguez 
Ramierez.    This  man  was  well  known  at  Boquillas  and  Glenn 
Springs. 

8.  There  is  no  way  of  knowing  the  number  of  bandits  killed 
and  wounded,  but  it  is  believed  their  losses  were  heavy,  beside 
the  two  mentioned  above.    Two  newlymade  graves  were  found 
near  San  Vicente  and  it  is  expected  that  more  will  be  found. 
The  ground  in  the  vicinity  of  the  adobe  building  was  covered 
with  pools  of  blood  and  looked  like  a  slaughter  pen,  so  their 
losses  must  have  been  considerable. 

9.  Our  casualties  were  as  follows — killed:   Private  Wil- 
liam Cohen,  entire  top  of  head  blown  off  by  shotgun,  body 
horribly  burned;  Private  Stephen  J.  Coloe,  shot  through  the 
head,  chest  and  shoulder,  body  badly  burned ;  Private  Hudson 
Rogers  shot  through  the  head. 


356  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

Garnett  Compton,  four  years  old,  son  of  C.  G.  Compton, 
Glenn  Springs,  shot  in  chest,  abdomen  and  leg. 

Wounded :  Private  Joseph  Birck,  gunshot  wounds  in  both 
legs,  severely  burned. 

Burned:  Sergeant  Charles  E.  Smyth,  Private  Frank  De- 
frees,  and  Private  Roscoe  C.  Tyree. 

10.  Cavalry  horses  ridden  off  by  the  raiders  and  most  of 
the  property  in  possession  of  the  detachment  was  either  burned 
or  stolen. 

11.  It  is  considered  that  the  conduct  of  the  men  composing 
the  little  detachment  at  Glenn  Springs  was  nothing  short  of 
heroic,  that  they  did  all  that  could  be  expected  of  mortal  men 
and  that  their  services  deserve  recognition. 

(Signed)    C.  W.  Cole, 

Captain  I4th  Cavalry. 

NOTE:  A  War  Department  "Certificate  of  Merit"  was 
awarded  Sergeant  Charles  E.  Smyth,  "A"  Troop,  I4th  Cav- 
alry, for  heroic  conduct  at  Glenn  Springs.  A  medal  of  honor 
would  undoubtedly  have  been  awarded  Sergeant  Smyth  had 
his  conduct  been  observed  by  a  commissioned  officer,  as  re- 
quired under  the  law.  There  was  no  commissioned  officer 
present. 

The  letter  referred  to  in  Captain  Cole's  report  reads: 

Detachment,  Troop  A,  I4th  Cavalry. 

May  6,  1916. 
Commanding  Officer : 

The  McKinney  Springs  detachment  was  attacked  last  night 
about  1 1  :45  by  about  700  Villa  men.  We  have  5  men  left  in 
camp,  3  are  known  dead  and  i  missing.  I  have  in  camp  Private 
Birck,  shot  3  times  and  Private  Defrees  is  pretty  badly  burned. 
Private  Croskem  is  O.  K.  Private  Dempsey  is  O.  K.  and  I  am 
O.  K.,  except  my  feet  are  so  badly  burned  that  I  cannot  walk 
hardly.  Private  Cohen  is  dead,  Private  Rogers  is  dead,  Private 
Coloe  is  dead,  and  Tyree  is  missing,  but  I  believe  he  is  safe  as 
I  laid  down  and  was  shooting  as  he  was  making  for  the  hills. 
The  Mexicans  burned  the  shack  down  that  we  were  in,  it  was 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  357 

an  adobe  shack  but  had  wooden  doors  and  windows  and  other 
wooden  stuff  inside.  We  stood  them  off  all  right  until  they 
burned  down  the  adobe  shack  and  then  we  had  to  make  a 
run  from  it  and  we  passed  through  some  lead  but  they  got 
three  men,  as  I  told  you  in  the  first  part  of  letter.  Captain, 
I  am  staying  instead  of  coming  in  as  I  want  to  be  on  the  scene ; 
also  get  even  for  killing  our  men.  And,  Captain,  all  the  men 
stood  the  test  great,  not  a  one  flinched.  Please  send  plenty  of 
ammunition,  both  rifle  and  pistol.  Also  please  send  shoes  and 
clothes,  as  we  all  fought  in  our  underclothes,  except  the  two 
men  on  guard,  they  had  their  clothes  on  at  the  time.  I  just 
got  word  that  a  force  of  Villa  men  made  a  raid  on  Boquillas. 
Also  please  send  plenty  of  lime  water  and  linseed  oil  for  burns. 
I  am  sending  in  the  three  dead  bodies  of  our  men  and  also  a 
little  boy  that  was  killed.  Well,  as  the  truck  is  ready  I  will 
stop  and  send  in  this  letter.  Please  send  out  four  pistols,  as 
the  men  lost  them,  also  one  field  belt,  also  plenty  of  bandages 
and  other  hospital  supplies.  All  horses  lost,  also  saddles,  in 
fact  everything  but  our  rifles  and  my  pistol. 

(Signed)     Chas.  E.  Smyth, 
Sergeant,  Troop  A,  I4th  Cavalry. 

Word  of  the  Glenn  Springs  and  Boquillas  raids  was  not 
received  at  El  Paso,  the  district  headquarters,  until  Sunday, 
and  but  few  details  were  given.  Major  George  T.  Langhorne 
was  ordered  to  proceed  to  Glenn  Springs  with  "A"  and  "B" 
troops  of  the  8th  Cavalry.  He  left  by  train  Sunday  and  arrived 
at  Mar  fa  at  daylight  Monday  morning.  At  El  Paso,  a  con- 
ference was  in  session  between  General  Scott,  General  Funston, 
and  General  Obregon,  the  Mexican  commander.  General  Fun- 
ston's  instructions  to  Major  Langhorne  were,  if  necessary,  to 
cross  the  river  in  pursuit  of  the  bandits ;  to  leave  word  for  the 
sheriff  who  would  follow  with  other  troops;  also  to  rescue 
Americans  who  were  supposed  to  be  besieged  at  the  Del  Car- 
men Mine.  It  was  known  that  the  bandits  had  taken  Deemer 
and  a  Seminole  negro  prisoners.  These  were  to  be  rescued. 

Major  Langhorne  preceded  his  troops  to  the  river,  92  miles, 


358  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

got  his  information,  returned,  and  met  them  at  Boquillas.  After 
communicating  with  Colonel  Sively,  the  two  troops  of  the  8th 
Cavalry,  under  Major  Langhorne,  went  into  Mexico.  He  left 
Boquillas  at  8  o'clock  at  night  and  reached  Peno  del  Rio,  con- 
tinued on  by  night  marches,  and  rescued  Deemer  and  the 
Seminole  at  El  Peno.  He  then  continued  the  chase  after  the 
bandits,  168  miles  from  the  Rio  Grande  into  Mexico.  Positive 
orders  were  received  for  the  return  of  the  troops,  owing  to 
information  received  by  General  Funston  that  1, 600  Yaqui  In- 
dians had  been  sent  after  the  bandits,  supposedly  also  to  resist 
the  American  troops.  Troops  "A"  and  "B"  marched  568  miles 
in  sixteen  marching  days.  Three  days  were  added  for  rest  days. 
On  these  rest  days  the  horses  were  taken  over  the  mountains 
to  keep  them  from  getting  sick.  No  man  nor  horse  was  lost 
or  sick  in  Mexico.  No  ambulance  was  carried.  Ten  of  the 
thirty  bandits  were  either  caught  or  killed,  brought  back,  were 
tried  at  El  Peno  and  given  various  long  sentences. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  359 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 

Following  the  Glenn  Springs  and  Boquillas  raids,  the  anti- 
Mexican  feeling  ran  high  in  the  Big  Bend.  The  internal  con- 
dition of  Mexico  was  chaotic,  and  this  was  reflected  strongly 
in  the  United  States-Mexico  relations.  The  Americans  found 
that  the  Carranzistas  were  adroit  liars.  They  called  the  Vil- 
listas  bandits,  and  in  turn  they  were  called  bandits  by  Villistas. 
There  are  few  cases  on  record  where  the  American  troops,  while 
apprehending  Villistas  bandits,  received  aid  from  the  Car- 
ranza  troops. 

After  the  Glenn  Springs  raid,  the  Big  Bend  was  made  a 
military  district  It  was  changed  back  into  a  sub-district  of 
El  Paso,  then  later  changed  to  a  district.  The  first  cavalry 
sent  to  the  Big  Bend  was  the  6th,  commanded  by  Colonel 
Joseph  A.  Gaston,  who,  when  the  United  States  entered  the 
World  War,  was  made  Brigadier-General.  The  6th  Cavalry 
reached  Mar  fa  May  21,  1916,  and  remained  until  October, 
1917,  when  it  was  relieved  by  the  8th  Cavalry,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Colonel  George  T.  Langhorne.  During  the  time  the 
6th  Cavalry  occupied  the  Big  Bend,  the  4th  Texas  Infantry,  the 
1st  Texas  Cavalry  Squadron,  two  battalions  of  the  Pennsyl- 
vania National  Guard,  and  the  34th  United  States  Infantry  also 
served. 

To  Colonel  Gaston  was  assigned  the  responsible  task  of 
suppressing  the  wave  of  brigandage  which  was  sweeping  the 
Big  Bend ;  protecting  the  interests  of  the  citizens,  and  dealing 
out  justice  to  both  Mexicans  and  Americans.  Colonel  Gaston 
had  thirty-nine  years  of  service  in  the  United  States  Army  to 
his  credit,  during  which  time  he  had  been  almost  continuously 
with  troops.  He  was  on  duty  with  the  8th  Cavalry  in  New 
Mexico  and  Arizona  during  the  Apache  war,  1885-1886,  as 
second  and  first  lieutenant.  It  is  interesting  to  note  that  he 


360  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

served  as  second  lieutenant  at  old  Fort  Davis,  after  his  gradua- 
tion at  West  Ponit.  He  was  with  Troop  H,  8th  Cavalry  during 
the  Sioux  war,  1890-1891.  He  also  served  in  the  Spanish- 
American  war  and  was  later  placed  in  command  of  Fort  Sill, 
Indian  Territory,  in  1898,  to  prevent  an  outbreak  of  the 
Indians,  which  at  that  time  was  feared.  Colonel  Gaston  also 
served  in  Cuba,  assisting  in  the  general  work  of  policing  the 
island.  While  there  his  regiment  suffered  severely  from  a 
typhoid  epidemic.  In  1906,  when  the  San  Francisco  earth- 
quake and  fire  occurred,  Gaston's  regiment  was  ordered  to  San 
Francisco  and  he  was  detailed  as  superintendent  of  permanent 
camps,  with  the  responsibility  of  caring  for  the  20,000  refugees 
in  those  camps. 

Gaston  also  served  in  the  Philippine  Islands,  and  later  took 
the  field  officers'  courses  at  the  Mounted  Service  School,  Fort 
Riley,  Service  School,  Fort  Leavenworth,  and  the  Army  War 
College,  Washington,  D.  C.  From  1914  to  1916,  he  was  sta- 
tioned at  Texas  City,  the  Brownsville  Cavalry  Patrol  District, 
and  from  April  18,  1916,  until  ordered  to  the  Big  Bend,  was 
in  Mexico  with  the  punitive  expedition,  commanded  by  Gen- 
eral Pershing.  On  returning  from  Mexico,  Gaston's  regiment 
was  ordered  from  Columbus,  New  Mexico,  to  the  Big  Bend 
District  of  Texas. 

When  the  6th  Cavalry  was  ordered  away  from  the  Big 
Bend,  it  was  replaced  by  the  8th  Cavalry,  Colonel  George  T. 
Langhorne  commanding.  Colonel  Joseph  A.  Gaston  had 
wrought  a  marked  change  in  the  conditions  during  the  year 
and  four  months  of  his  administration  in  the  Big  Bend.  He  had 
taught  the  Mexicans  to  fear  and  respect  the  American  troops. 
Still,  for  the  most  part,  internal  conditions  in  the  Big  Bend 
depended  not  upon  the  tranquillity  of  the  different  American 
communities  on  the  Texas  side,  but  upon  the  conditions  on  the 
Mexican  side.  Perhaps,  for  months  all  would  be  quiet  south 
of  the  Rio  Grande,  then  a  new  revolutionary  movement  would 
be  started  by  some  disgruntled  Carranzista,  Villista,  or  some 
other  "ista,"  which  would  almost  invariably  terminate  in  raids 
on  the  American  side. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  361 

These  people  knew  the  conditions  on  the  Texas  side  of  the 
Rio  Grande,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  American  ranchmen 
employed  Mexican  help,  which  formed  the  floating  population 
of  the  country.  These  Mexican  laborers  knew  intimately  the 
trails,  the  whereabouts  of  the  horses  and  cattle,  as  well  as 
supplies  and  provisions.  Added  to  this  leading  element  was  the 
American  slacker,  who,  for  the  most  part,  came  from  that  por- 
tion of  the  Mexican  population  who  were  willing  enough  to 
make  their  living  amongst  us  but  who  were  not  willing  to 
fight  for  their  country. 

This  was  the  condition  which  the  8th  Cavalry  had  to  meet 
only  a  short  time  after  it  had  replaced  the  6th  Cavalry. 

On  October  17,  1917,  150  Mexicans  under  a  Carranza 
major  were  marching  down  the  river  opposite  NevuTs  ranch. 
They  saw  a  patrol  of  four  men  under  a  lieutenant  of  the  8th 
Cavalry  on  patrol  duty.  Fifty  of  the  Mexicans  and  the  major 
crossed  the  Rio  Grande;  twenty  of  them  set  about  rounding 
up  Mr.  Nevill's  cattle  and  thirty  came  toward  the  soldiers, 
who,  with  one  man  holding  the  horses  and  Mr.  Nevill  and  his 
sixteen-year-old  son,  took  up  a  position  on  a  hill.  The  Mexicans 
were  halted,  the  major  made  to  advance,  and  he  was  asked 
what  he  was  doing  there.  The  Mexican  officer  said  he  had 
mistaken  the  American  patrol  for  Villistas.  The  major  was 
held  under  the  guns  of  the  patrol  and  made  to  order  his  men 
to  desist  from  rounding  up  the  cattle,  and  he  was  then  forced 
to  order  his  men  to  return  to  the  Mexican  side. 

On  another  day,  while  patrolling  the  lower  Nevill  ranch,  a 
corporal  in  charge  of  three  troopers  of  the  8th  Cavalry  saw 
a  large  party  of  Mexicans  crossing  to  the  Texas  side.  Orders 
were  to  allow  no  Mexican  to  cross.  The  Americans  were  far 
outnumbered;  however,  they  were  concealed,  an  advantage 
the  corporal  was  quick  to  seize.  He  showed  himself  and  called 
to  the  Mexicans  to  turn  back.  The  Mexicans  kept  coming. 
Whereupon  the  corporal  faced  to  the  rear  and  began  speaking 
to  the  three  hidden  men  as  if  he  were  addressing  a  troop  of 
a  hundred  soldiers. 

"Lieutenant,"  he  shouted,  "take  your  men  into  skirmish 


362  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

line  over  there  on  the  left.  Captain,  get  your  men  behind  that 
clump  of  trees  to  the  right." 

All  the  time  he  gesticulated  as  if  lining  up  a  troop  for  battle. 
The  three  soldiers  "tumbled."  Taking  their  cue  from  the 
corporal,  they  kept  out  of  sight  and  began  giving  commands  as 
if  to  bodies  of  men. 

The  Mexicans  concluded  that  an  entire  troop  of  cavalry 
was  present  and  "fell"  for  the  bluff.  They  turned  back  to 
the  Mexican  side,  and  the  corporal  and  his  men  were  saved 
the  trouble  of  fighting  a  big  bunch  of  what  was  potentially 
outlaws.  The  corporal  was  a  lieutenant  in  France  by  the  sum- 
mer of  1918. 

The  next  incident  was  the  taking  of  Ojinaga  by  Francisco 
Villa.  This  occurred  November  12.  Ojinaga  is  exceedingly 
well  situated  on  a  high,  narrow  ridge,  with  the  Conchos  River 
on  one  side,  and  the  town  overlooking  a  bend  of  the  Rio 
Grande.  It  was  occupied  by  800  Carranzistas,  General  Corniva 
E.  Espinosa  commanding.  Villa's  troops  attacked  in  the  morn- 
ing, just  before  daylight ;  and  with  the  assistance  of  two  Amer- 
ican deserters  mounting  machine  guns,  the  Carranzistas  repelled 
the  rebel  attack.  Again  that  night,  Villa,  in  person,  with  500 
men  resumed  his  attack.  He  gave  orders  that  no  man  should 
fire  more  than  five  rounds  of  ammunition.  Following  a  short 
fight,  the  800  Carranzistas,  after  losing  a  small  number,  de- 
serted their  position  and  retreated  to  the  Texas  side  of  the  river. 
They  were  interned,  put  on  army  trucks,  and  sent  by  rail  to 
Juarez,  the  Mexican  town  opposite  El  Paso.  Carranza's  gov- 
ernment was  required  to  pay  all  the  expenses.  The  command- 
ing officer  at  Marfa  had  the  Mexican  Consul  General  place 
money  in  the  Marfa  National  Bank  against  which  all  costs  of 
subsistence,  clothing,  etc.,  were  charged,  and  the  Carranzistas, 
women  and  children,  were  kept  under  guard  and  a  full  account 
of  all  expenditures  was  made. 

The  garrison  of  Presidio  was  reinforced  by  troops  from 
Marfa.  It  is  worth  noting  that  these  troops  were  in  automobiles 
furnished  and  driven  by  citizens  of  Marfa,  who  had  organized 
for  just  such  purposes.  The  drive  was  made  from  Marfa  to 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  363 

Presidio  in  three  hours  and  a  half,  a  distance  of  68  miles,  on 
less  than  three-quarters  of  an  hour's  notice.  The  Cananzistas 
were  placed  on  a  train  at  Marfa,  and  the  train  was  held  until 
the  Consul  General  deposited  in  El  Paso,  money  for  the  fares 
of  all  to  Juarez  and  for  the  return  fares  of  the  American  guard. 

Villa  then  garrisoned  Ojinaga  with  the  hopes  of  opening  the 
port  of  entry  in  order  to  pass  through  large  shipments  of  bul- 
lion and  to  receive  in  return  ammunition  and  supplies  for  his 
ragamuffin  army.  Washington,  however,  kept  the  port  closed, 
and  Villa's  garrison  remained  at  Ojinaga  much  disappointed. 
A  few  weeks  later,  on  the  first  approach  of  a  Carranzista  force, 
having  failed  in  his  object  in  taking  Ojinaga,  Villa  withdrew  his 
forces  to  the  hill.  Since  that  time  despite  many  rumors  of  the 
approach  of  the  Villistas,  Ojinaga  has  been  garrisoned  by 
Carranzistas. 

Believing  that  in  entering  the  World  War  the  vigilant  eyes 
of  Uncle  Sam's  army  had  been  withdrawn  from  the  Rio  Grande, 
raids  became  more  frequent  in  the  Big  Bend.  Tigner's  ranch 
about  eight  miles  from  Indio  was  next  raided  and  a  herd  of 
cattle  driven  off.  Colonel  Langhorne,  from  his  Marfa  head- 
quarters, wired  Lieutenant  Matlock,  stationed  on  the  river,  to 
meet  Mr.  Tigner  on  the  road,  to  investigate,  to  find  the  trail, 
and  then  to  follow  this  hot  trail  the  next  day  with  troops  the 
Colonel  had  ordered  from  Presidio.  Lieutenant  Matlock  with 
21  men  followed  the  trail,  and  ran  into  an  ambush  of  200  Mexi- 
cans at  Buena  Vista.  That  is,  he  found  them  in  ambush  and 
promptly  charged  them  in  the  rear,  surprising  the  ambush  and 
killing  35  bandits.  He  then  returned  to  the  American  side  of 
the  river,  met  the  reinforced  troops  and  later  crossed  to  the 
Mexican  side  and  recovered  the  body  of  Private  Riggs,  who 
was  killed  in  the  fight.  Four  of  the  cavalry  horses  were  shot 
in  this  engagement. 

Mr.  Tigner,  who  was  wounded  in  this  engagement  had 
managed  to  stay  on  his  horse  until  the  river  was  reached,  when 
he  had  to  dismount  and  hide.  He  was  searched  for  that  night 
but  could  not  be  found.  His  Mexican  foreman,  who  followed 
him  with  the  troops,  had  been  tied  and  killed  by  the  retreating 


364  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

bandits.  The  foreman's  body  was  found  on  the  return  of  the 
troops.  Mr.  Tigner  was  found  the  next  morning ;  and  recovered 
from  his  wound. 

The  next  day  the  Mexicans  delivered  a  fire  on  an  American 
patrol.  The  troops  returned  this  fire  across  the  Rio  Grande  and 
killed  twelve  Mexicans.  Some  of  the  Carranzista  garrison  were 
in  these  two  engagements  and  furnished  part  of  the  casualties. 

A  typical  example  of  the  way  in  which  Colonel  Langhorne 
enforced  an  observance  of  American  laws,  in  dealing  with  the 
Carranzistas  is  illustrated  by  the  following :  In  December  there 
were  large  numbers  of  Carranza  troops,  including  several  gen- 
erals, at  Ojinaga.  Two  horses  and  a  mule  were  stolen  by  these 
troops  below  San  Jose,  and  the  district  commander  demanded 
the  immediate  return  of  these  animals.  This  was  promised 
by  twelve  o'clock  the  next  day.  They  were  not  returned  at  that 
time;  and  all  traffic  across  the  Rio  Grande  was  stopped.  At 
four  o'clock  the  Mexican  consul  gave  a  check  for  the  value  of 
the  stolen  animals,  made  out  in  favor  of  their  owner,  to  be 
cashed  ten  days  later  if  the  animals  were  not  returned.  Col- 
onel Langhorne  then  permitted  the  port  of  entry  to  be  reopened. 

In  the  fighting  along  the  Rio  Grande  it  frequently  happened 
that  soldiers  and  Texas  rangers  fought  side  by  side.  In  a  fight 
near  Hester's  ranch  a  ranger  followed  the  Mexicans  across  the 
Rio  Grande.  In  an  unboastful  way  he  was  proud  of  this.  Like 
so  many  next-to-the-soil  border  men  he  was  just  a  grown-up 
boy,  ready  for  a  fight  or  a  frolic.  He  had  a  leaning  toward 
bright  colors.  While  on  the  other  side,  the  ranger  saw  a  bril- 
liant scarlet  dress  hanging  in  a  Mexican  jacal. 

"There  was  just  one  thing  over  there  that  I'd  'a  liked  to 
had,"  the  ranger  said  afterward.  "I  sho'  wanted  that  there  red 
dress,  but  I 1  just  didn't  take  it/' 

Which  self-denial  showed  either  his  fear  of  an  outraged 
damsel,  or  that  he  would  not  rob  a  woman. 

About  eleven  o'clock,  Christmas  morning,  1917,  Mr.  Luke 
Brite  telephoned  Colonel  Langhorne  that  his  headquarters 
ranch  was  being  raided.  In  eighteen  minutes  after  the  troops 
were  notified,  the  first  of  them  left  the  army  camp  at  Marfa 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  365 

in  citizens'  automobiles,  followed  by  others  within  a  few  min- 
utes. In  the  meantime,  troops  were  ordered  from  Ruidosa 
to  march  up  the  river  to  intercept  the  bandits.  The  troops, 
ranchers,  sheriffs,  and  civilians  reached  Brite's  ranch  within 
an  hour. 

A  good  illustration  of  the  fighting  quality  of  the  western 
people  is  given  in  this  fight.  Reverend  H.  M.  Bandy,  a  Chris- 
tian minister,  living  at  Marfa,  drove  to  Brite's  ranch  to  make 
Christmas  dinner  and  he  arrived  in  the  middle  of  the  raid. 
He  was  held  up  and  questioned  by  some  of  the  Mexican  raiders, 
and  they  were  told  that  he  was  a  priest,  as  they  would  not  un- 
derstand the  meaning  of  the  word  minister  or  preacher.  Being 
assured  he  was  a  Man  of  God,  they  permitted  him  to  pass  into 
the  house.  As  he  was  but  a  "priest,"  they  believed  him  harm- 
less. Upon  entering  the  house,  Mr.  Bandy  called  the  besieged 
around  him,  offered  a  prayer  for  deliverance,  grabbed  a  Win- 
chester, and  took  his  station  with  the  other  men  at  one  of  the 
windows. 

After  securing  all  the  loot  in  Brite's  store  the  bandits  pre- 
pared to  retire.  The  retirement  was  accelerated  by  the  appear- 
ance of  the  troops  and  posse  in  automobiles.  The  troops  were 
on  foot  and  the  bandits  were  mounted,  but  as  the  bandits  went 
over  the  Rim  Rock  the  troops  were  near  enough -to  fire  upon 
them,  making  them  drop  large  quantities  of  their  loot.  Part  of 
the  troops  proceeded  on  foot  for  several  miles  but  returned  later 
to  get  horses  at  the  ranch.  The  bandits  intercepted  the  stage, 
killed  Micky  Welsh,  the  mail  carrier,  and  also  killed  two  Mexi- 
cans who  were  in  the  stage. 

Christmas  night  was  very  cold  and  the  troops  marching  up 
the  river  from  Ruidosa  suffered  exceedingly.  They  marched 
forty  miles,  and  the  next  day  found  the  trail  where  the  Mexi- 
cans had  crossed  the  Rio  Grande.  The  bandits  had  attempted 
to  cross  at  several  points,  but  lost  many  of  their  animals  in 
the  quicksands.  They  finally  succeeded  in  crossing  at  Fresnos. 
The  troops  from  Ruidosa  were  the  first  to  cross  the  river  and 
came  upon  the  fleeing  bandits  about  five  miles  in  Mexico.  These 
troops  were  followed  by  the  troops  which  had  arrived  at  Brite's 


366  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

ranch  in  automobiles  and  who  had  gotten  horses  from  B rite's 
ranch  and  Evetts'  ranch.  Those  troops  joined  with  the  Ruidos' 
troops  and  engaged  the  bandits  in  a  running  fight  for  ten  miles. 
Only  three  or  four  bandits  were  seen  to  escape.  They  were 
made  to  drop  most  of  their  loot.  Of  the  twenty-five  horses 
stolen  from  Mr.  Brite,  the  troops  found,  shot,  foundered,  and 
otherwise  disabled,  eleven  horses.  Eighteen  of  these  bandits 
were  killed  and  two  died  later,  and  the  Carranzistas  reported 
that  they  got  six  of  them.  That  is,  they  found  three  of  them 
dead,  and  three  wounded,  whom  they  killed.  Pinto  Villa  Nueva 
was  the  leader  and  he  died  later.  One  Mexican  was  killed  at 
the  ranch  by  the  Neals.  He  was  dressed  in  a  Carranza  uniform. 
One  of  the  Neals  was  wounded,  one  soldier  wounded,  one  mule 
killed,  and  two  mules  and  a  horse  wounded — total  American 
casualties. 

About  this  same  time  a  squadron  of  American  soldiers  en- 
gaged a  bandit  raiding  party  in  a  fight  at  the  river.  The  bandits 
were  on  the  Mexico  side  and  were  strongly  entrenched  behind 
some  great  cottonwood  trees.  The  American  soldiers  were 
firing  from  a  gully  on  the  Texas  side.  One  Yankee  gunner 
was  using  a  machine  gun,  but  with  considerable  dissatisfaction 
to  himself  because  the  cottonwood  tree  on  the  south  shore 
hid  the  pack  of  Mexicans  so  that  he  could  not  get  in  good  work 
on  them.  The  great  alamo  had  a  luxuriant  network  of  branches, 
stood  very  high,  and  had  a  bole  about  eight  inches  in  diameter. 

The  lieutenant  in  charge  of  the  detachment  was  walking 
along  behind  the  barricade  instructing  his  men,  when  he  came 
to  the  machine  gunner. 

"That  tree  hides  the  target,  Lieutenant,"  complained  the 
trooper. 

"Don't  let  that  bother  you,"  said  the  lieutenant.     "Here's 
the  way  to  serve  trees  that  are  in  the  way." 

Whereupon,  the  officer  slid  up  behind  the  machine  gun, 
pressed  the  trigger  for  thirty  seconds,  while  a  squirt  of  bullets 
sang  out  from  the  muzzle.  The  big  cottonwood  swayed,  tot- 
tered, and  fell,  sawed  in  two  near  the  ground  by  bullets.  The 
bandit  nest  was  equally  as  neatly  cleaned  out. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  367 

On  January  26,  1918,  a  Mexican  told  an  American  patrol 
near  Pilares  that  the  troops  seen  that  morning  going  down 
the  Rio  Grande  were  Carranzistas,  and  that  their  going  down 
the  river  was  caused  by  Villistas.  The  Carranzistas  always 
called  the  Villistas  bandits,  and  vice  versa.  They  were  going 
over  the  mountains  through  Pilares  to  meet  others  from  Bosque 
Bonito,  and  then  they  were  going  down  the  river  for  a  raid. 

The  commanding  officer  at  Evetts'  ranch  reported  this  fact 
and  also  sent  Lieutenant  Gagne  up  the  river  to  warn  Nevill 
and  his  boy,  at  that  time  on  Nevill's  lower  ranch,  and  to  learn 
if  any  Mexicans  had  left  Bosque  Bonito.  Lieutenant  Gagne 
ascertained  that  they  had  left.  He  then  returned  to  Nevill's 
upper  ranch,  where  there  was  a  telephone,  and  made  his  report. 
Nevill  returned  to  his  lower  ranch,  although  warned  by  the 
soldiers  not  to  do  so. 

About  dark,  thirty-five  Mexicans  crossed  the  river  and 
came  up  to  Nevill's  house.  Nevill  called  to  his  boy  and  a 
Mexican  named  Castillo,  warning  them  to  leave  the  house. 
Nevill  succeeded  in  reaching  the  brush  unobserved  by  the  ad- 
vancing bandits.  The  boy  tried  to  escape  but  was  shot  in  the 
leg  and  beaten  to  death.  The  bandits  caught  Castillo  and  took 
him  back  into  the  house,  where  they  showed  him  his  dead  wife. 
They  said  that  it  was  a  mistake,  that  they  had  not  meant  to 
kill  her,  but  that  they  should  kill  him  for  being  a  gringero — 
an  American-lover.  They  said,  however,  that  since  his  wife 
was  dead,  they  would  let  him  go. 

Castillo  went  out,  caught  a  horse,  and  reported  to  Lieutenant 
Gagne.  The  lieutenant  sent  in  the  report  by  wire,  then  with 
ten  men  raced  to  Nevill's  ranch.  Captain  Anderson  also  re- 
ported the  facts,  and  went  from  Evetts'  ranch  to  Nevill's  ranch. 

Colonel  Langhorne  sent  Captain  Tate's  troops  to  Lobo  by 
rail  and  over  the  Van  Horn  Mountains  to  Nevill's  ranch,  mak- 
ing 115  miles  altogether  covered  by  that  troop.  A  pack  train 
was  sent  at  the  same  time  from  Holland's  ranch.  Colonel 
Langhorne  went  to  Nevill's  ranch,  where  he  secured  guides 
who  knew  the  country  on  the  opposite  side.  From  Hester's 
ranch,  a  detachment  of  "H"  troop  marched  75  miles  to  Nevill's 


368  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

ranch,  between  12:30  a.  m.  and  4:00  p.  m.,  of  the  same  day. 
The  next  morning  the  troops  took  up  the  trail,  which  the  raiders 
had  tried  to  hide  by  scattering.  The  trail  was  found,  however, 
by  the  experienced  trailers,  and  followed  over  the  mountains, 
unspeakably  rough — so  rough  that  the  bandits  lost  several 
animals  over  the  side  of  the  cliffs.  After  marching  forty 
miles,  the  troops  continued  the  trail  the  next  day  which  led 
back  over  the  mountains  to  Pilares. 

When  the  combined  American  forces,  which  numbered 
eighty  soldiers  and  six  civilians,  were  250  yards  from  the 
Mexican  town,  Pilares,  the  bandits  harbored  in  the  houses  of 
the  town,  opened  fire  upon  their  pursuers.  The  returned  fire 
of  the  Americans  was  so  hot  that  the  Mexicans  retreated  to 
the  mountains  near  Pilares.  Here  they  took  up  strong  posi- 
tions for  a  time,  but  were  forced  to  retreat  further  into  the 
mountains.  The  Americans  followed  them  for  eleven  miles. 

During  the  fight  five  of  the  cowboy  civilians,  including  the 
two  scouts,  Charlie  Beall  and  Tom  Beall,  had  forged  ahead  of 
the  soldiers  and  worked  their  way  into  a  canyon.  When 
discovered  by  the  troops  they  were  mistaken  for  Mexicans  and 
the  troops  would  not  let  them  out.  Fortunately,  no  one  was 
hit  by  the  soldiers'  fire  and  they  finally  succeeded  in  making 
themselves  known. 

In  this  fight  ten  dead  bandits  were  found  by  the  soldiers 
and  about  twenty  more  were  reported  by  the  Mexicans.  Upon 
one  of  the  dead  bandits  was  found  young  Nevill's  hat  and 
leather  leggings;  on  another  was  found  his  boots.  Two  of 
Nevill's  horses  were  found,  one  shot  and  the  other  foundered; 
both  of  them  were  saddled.  The  Carranzistas  made  absolutely 
no  effort  to  help  the  Americans  capture  the  bandits. 

Buster,  a  negro  cowboy  working  for  the  Loves,  was  down 
on  the  Rio  Grande  with  the  soldiers.  One  day  the  soldiers 
engaged  in  a  fight  with  Mexicans.  Buster  was  lying  beside 
Lieutenant  J.  J.  Hansey,  and  like  the  soldiers,  was  firing  at 
the  Mexicans.  Bullets  were  buzzing  by  their  heads  as  if  the 
Mexicans  must  immediately  use  the  product  of  a  great  muni- 
tion factory,  but  no  one  was  in  sight,  nothing  but  desolation — 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  369 

lonely  rocks  and  the  great  empty  inverted  bowl  of  the  sky. 
Bullets  alone  broke  the  silence,  until  Buster  spoke. 

"Say,  Loot,"  said  he,  "ain't  them  things  got  a  lo-o-o-nesome 
sound?" 

And  for  some  intangible  reason,  soldiers  echoed  Buster's 
sentiment.  Bullets  in  the  Big  Bend  have  a  lo-o-o-nesome  sound. 

There  is  a  great  deal  of  Germanism  and  German  propaganda 
in  Mexico.  This  condition  not  only  obtained  during  the  war 
but  obtains  to-day.  This  was  especially  shown  by  the  action 
of  General  Francisco  Murguia  and  his  brother  Jose.  General 
Murguia  was  Carranza's  commander  of  the  north  zone,  in 
Chihuahua.  Reports  were  received  that  General  Murguia  told 
his  soldiers  that  he  had  no  money  with  which  to  pay  them  nor 
food  to  give  them,  but  that  there  was  plenty  of  money  and  pro- 
visions in  Texas,  and  they  could  get  it. 

Troops  to  the  number  of  several  thousands  were  sent  north 
from  Chihuahua  City.  Over  three  thousand  of  these  were 
sent  opposite  the  Big  Bend.  A  column  under  Colonel  E.  Mar- 
tinez Ruiz  started  to  march  down  the  Rio  Grande  towards 
Ojinaga  from  a  point  opposite  Fort  Hancock.  These  troops 
had  no  provisions  and  they  got  into  difficulties  near  Fort 
Hancock.  They  fired  on  our  patrol ;  part  of  them  crossed  the 
river  and  fired  at  the  Mexicans  on  the  Texas  side,  and  then 
stole  anything  and  everything  they  could  lay  their  hands  on. 

The  Mexican  consul  was  warned  that  if  they  marched  troops 
down  the  river  without  anything  to  eat  they  were  certain  to 
have  trouble.  On  April  20,  1918,  they  raided  White's  ranch 
across  the  river,  and  butchered  and  stole  several  head  of  cattle 
and  horses.  As  these  depredations  continued,  Colonel  Lang- 
horne  ordered  his  officers  to  get  in  touch  with  Colonel  Ruiz 
and  demand  payment.  Colonel  Ruiz  gave  an  order  on  the 
Mexican  Consul  General  in  El  Paso,  in  payment  for  stolen  stock. 
He  also  wrote  several  notes  to  Colonel  Langhorne,  in  which 
he  stated  that  a  number  of  his  men  had  deserted,  and  he  re- 
quested Colonel  Langhorne  to  catch  and  execute  them.  In 
another  note  Colonel  Ruiz  told  Colonel  Langhorne  that  his 
men  were  deserting  and  crossing  the  Rio  Grande ;  and  he  hoped 


370  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

that  they  would  be  caught  and  punished  according  to  our  laws. 
He  also  begged  that  if  firing  was  heard  on  the  Mexico  side  there 
was  no  occasion  for  alarm  because  his  men  were  shooting  at 
rabbits  and  hares.  Colonel  Ruiz*  column  stretched  out  a  long, 
straggling,  ragamuffin  line  for  seventy-five  miles.  It  was  child- 
ish, ludicrous,  pitiful  and  annoying. 

A  number  of  American  troops  were  ordered  to  follow 
down  the  river ;  and  at  various  points  Colonel  Langhorne  met 
Colonel  Ruiz.  Each  time  the  American  troops,  as  only  Ameri- 
can troops  can  look,  well  turned  out,  equipped,  and  presentable, 
were  casually  dropped  in  at  the  meeting  places  so  that  the 
Mexicans  could  see  what  they  were  up  against.  Colonel  Ruiz 
then  acknowledged  that  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  chase 
bandits  and  asked  that  the  8th  Cavalry  should  chase  them,  and 
he  said  that  the  American  troops  would  not  be  disturbed  on 
the  Mexico  side. 

During  this  ludicrous  march  down  the  river,  Corporal  Keal, 
of  "G"  troop,  8th  Cavalry,  with  Scout  Beall  and  a  small  de- 
tachment, while  following  a  trail  of  mules  owned  by  a  Mexican 
named  Orozco,  came  at  dark  to  the  river.  There  they  saw  four 
Mexicans  on  the  Texas  side  and  three  on  the  Mexico  side,  who 
opened  fire  on  the  patrol.  The  fire  was  returned  but  results 
could  not  be  noted,  as  it  was  growing  dark.  The  next  morning 
three  dead  horses  and  three  wounded  ones  were  found  on  the 
scene  of  action.  One  of  the  wounded  horses  had  a  Mexican 
officer's  equipment  and  was  recognized  by  the  soldiers  as  being 
a  horse  stolen  from  White's  ranch.  Colonel  Langhorne  secured 
payment  from  the  Mexican  Consul  General  in  El  Paso  for  the 
stolen  property,  and  paid  the  owners. 

Many  instances  similar  to  these  occurred,  as  for  instance, 
seven  horses  were  stolen  from  a  man  named  Davis  near  Loma 
Paloma  and  ten  head  of  cattle  from  a  ranchman  named  Russell. 
This  stock  was  seen  in  the  Carranza  camps.  These  Carranzistas 
had  little  to  eat.  The  Mexican  consul  at  Presidio  begged  the 
assistance  of  Colonel  Langhorne  at  Mar  fa,  in  getting  permission 
to  cross  sixty  thousand  pounds  of  corn  meal  for  the  use  of  the 
Carranza  garrison.  Colonel  Langhorne  got  the  permission  with 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  371 

the  proviso  that  the  animals  of  Davis  ancj.  Russell  should  be 
returned.  That  proviso  was  accepted  and  some  of  the  animals 
of  Davis  were  returned  and  he  was  paid  for  the  remainder. 
A  guarantee  was  put  up  for  the  cattle  of  Russell,  and  Russell 
was  paid,  as  they  were  not  returned.  Over  seven  hundred  of 
Ruiz*  men  were  reported  deserters,  and  it  is  probable  that  many 
of  them  came  to  the  Texas  side.  Opposite  Santa  Helena  and 
Lajitas  there  have  been  Villistas  for  the  past  two  and  a  half 
years.  These  are  not  molested  in  the  least  by  the  Carranzistas. 
Raiding  is  no  new  thing  along  the  Rio  Grande.  But  so  long 
as  the  8th  Cavalry  remains  in  the  Big  Bend  there  will  be  protec- 
tion. These  troops  have  become  experienced  bandit  fighters. 
They  are  meeting  every  emergency  nobly ;  dealing  with  justice 
fairly  and  impartially,  and  exchanging  "eye  for  eye"  with  the 
bandits — a  policy,  which,  if  generally  adopted  along  our  south- 
ern border,  would  soon  bring  peace  and  tranquillity  to  not  only 
the  American  side,  but  to  the  Mexican  side  as  well. 


372  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 


CHAPTER  XXIX 
L'Envoi 

In  summing  up  the  story  of  the  Big  Bend  due  credit  must  be 
given  to  the  citizenry  of  the  Trans-Pecos  country  for  winning  a 
wilderness  to  civilization.  The  commercial  growth  of  this 
country  has  been  dealt  with  but  sparingly,  owing  to  the  limited 
space.  No  one  volume  can  possibly  deal  with  all  phases  of  a 
country's  development.  The  products  of  this  country,  from 
ranch,  farm,  and  mine,  reach  all  parts  of  the  world ;  and  it  has 
been  the  purpose  of  this  work  to  deal  with  more  particularly 
the  obstacles  which  were  met  and  surmounted  by  the  people 
of  the  great  Southwest.  Therefore  we  will  consider  a  survey  of 
the  conditions  in  the  Big  Bend  District  since  1535,  in  which  the 
primary  causes  of  outlawry  and  brigandage  will  be  briefly  out- 
lined. 

In  1535,  Alvar  Nunez  Cabeza  de  Vaca,  with  three  com- 
panions, passed  through  the  Big  Bend  District,  after  wandering 
among  the  Indians  for  seven  years.  De  Vaca's  relation  of  his 
journey  spurred  on  the  adventurous  Spaniards  to  seek  the  con- 
quest of  the  land  north  of  New  Spain,  or  Mexico.  From  that 
time  to  the  present  day,  the  vicious  element  in  the  Indian-Mex- 
ican population  along  the  Rio  Grande  has  been  a  continual 
source  of  trouble  to  the  two  governments  on  either  side  of  the 
Rio  Grande. 

Following  de  Vaca,  some  forty  years  later,  Antonio  de 
Espejo  came  up  the  Rio  Conchos,  from  San  Bartolome,  Chi- 
huahua, on  his  way  to  New  Mexico ;  and  at  the  junction  of  the 
Rio  Grande  and  Rio  Conchos,  he  found  the  Indians  with  whom 
de  Vaca  had  lived.  These  Indians  were  the  forefathers  of  the 
present  day  peon  Mexican  along  the  border.  They  were  the 
Jumanos,  Tobosos,  Julemes,  Salineros,  Tarahumares,  and  a 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  373 

few  wandering  Tajes.  The  two  most  powerful  of  these  tribes, 
the  Jumanos  and  Tobosos,  have  been  identified  with  a  consider- 
able degree  of  certainty  as  the  progenitors  of  the  Southern 
Comanches  and  Mescalero  Apaches. 

The  records  of  the  Comanche  and  Apache  are  too  well 
known  to  make  it  necessary  to  furnish  evidence  of  their  thiev- 
ing and  murdering  propensities.  During  the  i6th,  I7th,  and 
most  of  the  i8th  centuries,  the  Franciscan  and  Jesuit  Fathers 
exerted  every  effort  to  Christianize  these  wild  tribes.  In  the 
missions  which  they  established  along  the  Rio  Grande,  they 
met  with  but  partial  success.  These  missions  became  the  home 
of  a  number  of  proselytized  Indians,  who,  while  they  retained 
all  the  propensities  of  their  wilder  brothers  and  often  broke  out 
in  revolt,  found  it  expedient  to  bow  to  the  Spanish  yoke.  Com- 
ing into  such  close  contact  with  the  Spaniards,  in  time  some 
Spanish  blood  was  infused  in  their  veins — not  as  a  rule,  through 
marriage,  but  through  the  sensual  cravings  of  the  Spaniard, 
who  cared  nothing  for  his  offspring.  As  is  generally  the  case 
where  a  superior  race  joins  blood  with  an  inferior  race,  the 
progeny  is  likely  to  inherit  more  of  the  weaknesses  and  fewer 
of  the  virtues  of  the  superior  race. 

This  is  the  condition  of  the  border  peon  Mexican  today — 
and  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  we  are  speaking  of  the  peon 
Mexican.  More  often  than  not  the  little  good  blood  the  peon 
may  have  in  his  veins  is  contaminated  with  disease,  and,  from 
the  mother  stock,  he  rightfully  inherits  the  bloodthirstiness  of 
his  Indian  forefathers. 

In  speaking  to-day  of  the  peon  Mexican,  we  must  remember 
that  he  is  an  Indian,  living  under  slightly  different  conditions 
from  the  wild  tribe,  but  at  heart  still  an  Indian.  Ask  one  of 
them  if  he  is  Spanish  and  he  will  resentfully  reply:  "No, 
Senor,  Yo  estoy  puro  Indio!" — "No,  sir,  I  am  pure  Indian!" 
He  is  proud  of  the  fact.  The  Gauchapin — a  pelado  word  for 
Spaniard,  denoting  contempt — is  even  more  hated  than  the 
American. 

In  1794,  the  strength  of  the  Spanish  padres  began  to  wane. 
The  date  of  their  withdrawal  from  the  Rio  Grande  territory 


374  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

varies.  Gradually  they  were  forced  to  abandon  their  missions. 
By  the  year  1800,  the  Indian  residents  of  the  missions  were 
left  to  shift  for  themselves.  From  1800  to  1848,  the  wild  tribes 
of  New  Mexico  and  North  and  East  Texas  held  undisputed 
possession  of  the  Big  Bend,  but  there  was  nothing  to  arouse 
their  cupidity  until  Old  Mexico  was  reached. 

The  records  of  the  old  Indian  Trails,  both  Comanche  and 
Apache,  extending  from  New  Mexico  to  Texas  into  Old 
Mexico,  showed  that  for  many  years  these  tribes  were  at  war 
with  one  another,  and  yearly  made  extended  raids  into  the 
interior  of  Mexico,  going  as  far  south  as  Santiago  Papasquiaro, 
Durango,  in  great  numbers,  carrying  bloodshed  and  rapine  to 
every  hacienda  and  returning  to  their  haunts  with  thousands  of 
horses,  cattle,  and  many  prisoners. 

In  efforts  to  halt  these  warfares,  the  Central  Government  of 
the  City  of  Mexico  pitted  one  State  against  another,  permitting 
the  Indians  to  raid  in  one  State  if  they  would  leave  another 
unmolested.  Even  the  States  of  Chihuahua,  Coahuila,  Sonora, 
and  Durango  made  separate  peace  with  these  Indians,  giving 
them  protection  as  long  as  they  raided  sister  States  only.  One 
State  would  allow  the  Indians  to  dispose  of  their  stolen  property 
and  prisoners  obtained  in  another  State.  The  Comanche  and 
Apache  would  live  among  the  inhabitants  while  one  of  these 
peace  treaties  lasted,  would  intermarry  with  the  Mexicans  and 
raise  families,  and  it  is  a  well  known  fact  that  many  of  the 
mightiest  chieftains  of  the  Comanches  and  Apaches  were  half- 
breed  Mexicans  or  Mexican  renegades.  In  time,  the  little  good 
the  padres  had  accomplished  among  the  proselytized  Mexico 
Indian  became  neutralized  by  this  new  infusion  of  savage  blood. 
Practically  all  that  remained  was  a  husk  of  Roman  Catholicism. 

Despite  these  conditions,  pioneers  began  to  push  into  the 
Big  Bend.  Dr.  H.  Connelly,  in  1839,  broke  trail  across  the 
Trans-Pecos  country,  from  Chihuahua  City  to  Arkansas.  He 
was  not  molested,  and  returned  safely  to  Chihuahua  in  1840. 
In  1848,  a  Virginian,  John  W.  Spencer,  settled  the  present  site 
of  Presidio,  Texas.  With  him  came  Burgess,  Leaton,  and 
several  other  Americans.  Then,  in  1849,  under  the  command 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  375 

of  Brevet-Colonel  Joseph  E.  Johnston,  the  War  Department 
began  a  series  of  reconnaissances  between  San  Antonio  and 
El  Paso. 

In  1850,  a  permanent  trail  of  commerce  was  opened,  reach- 
ing from  Chihuahua  City  to  San  Antonio  and  other  points  east ; 
and,  for  thirty-two  years,  until  the  railroads  came,  the  trail- 
drivers  and  freighters  on  the  Chihuahua  trail  had  continuous 
warfare  with  the  Indian  and  Mexican  outlaws. 

Naturally,  the  coming  of  settlers  and  freighters,  with  their 
work  animals  and  supplies,  attracted  the  Indians,  as  well  as  an 
element  among  the  Mexican  population,  called  ladrones.  In 
order  to  cover  up  their  operations,  these  latter  outlaws,  after 
an  attack  on  a  wagon-train,  would  set  up  the  cry  of  "In- 
dians !" 

Among  the  more  notorious  of  the  Indian  leaders,  Bajo  el  Sol 
stands  out  in  a  spectacular  manner.  He  was  the  son  of  old 
Tave  Pete,  a  female  Shaman  of  the  Comanches,  was  born  near 
the  old  presidio  of  San  Carlos,  across  the  Rio  Grande  from 
Lajitas,  Texas.  As  long  as  he  lived,  the  Mexicans  on  the 
Mexico  side,  harbored  and  protected  him  from  the  whites. 

Among  the  Apaches  Mescaleros,  two  chiefs  stand  out  above 
their  Indian  followers  as  being  superlatively  cruel  and  resource- 
ful. The  first  of  these,  Espejo — looking  glass — harassed  the 
early  freighters  on  the  Chihuahua  Trail  in  the  '6os.  Following 
the  Civil  War,  in  1867,  two  freight  outfits,  under  James  and 
William  Edgar,  respectively,  were  continually  preyed  upon  by 
Espejo  and  his  band,  between  Horsehead  Crossing  and  Fort 
Davis.  Eventually,  James  Edgar  was  forced  to  turn  back  to 
Fort  Stockton  when  Espejo  barred  his  passage  in  Wild  Rose 
Pass.  In  the  fight,  Edgar  lost  two  men. 

The  last  famous  Mescalero  Apache  chief,  Alsate,  was  the 
nephew  of  Manuel  Musquiz,  after  whom  Musquiz  Canyon  was 
named,  and  who  was  the  first  settler  in  the  Davis  Mountains 
to  have  cattle.  Alsate  was  named  after  Lieut.  Francisco  Alsate, 
of  the  Mexican  army,  stationed  at  Presidio  del  Norte,  Mexico. 
This  chief  mixed  freely  with  the  Mexican  people  in  San  Carlos 
and  other  settlements  along  the  Mexican  side  of  the  river. 


376  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

But  more  troublesome,  perhaps,  than  the  Indians,  were  the 
bands  of  Mexican  outlaws  that  infested  the  trails  and  cattle 
ranges  bordering  the  Rio  Grande.  A  brief  survey  of  past  and 
present  history  will  bring  to  light  some  of  the  conditions  which 
have  caused  raiding  from  across  the  Rio  Grande.  The  Mexican 
peon,  like  the  Indian,  is  constitutionally  opposed  to  labor.  At 
best,  he  will  cultivate  a  small  plot  of  ground,  raise  a  little  corn 
and  beans,  and  keep  a  small  goat  herd.  When  for  any  reason 
these  sources  of  food  supply  fail  him,  he  must  either  starve  or 
steal.  If  the  raiding  periods  are  watched  closely,  the  observer 
will  find  that  raiding  is  heaviest  when  some  calamity  has  over- 
taken the  Mexico  side  of  the  Rio  Grande.  During  the  Maximil- 
ian troubles  in  Mexico,  raiding  became  more  frequent  on  the 
American  side.  When  Porfirio  Diaz  took  over  the  reins  of 
government,  the  records  show  heavy  raiding.  And  since  the 
beginning  of  the  Madero  Revolution  up  to  the  present  time, 
raiding  has  been  constantly  carried  on.  So  fixed  has  become 
the  habit  of  obtaining  a  livelihood  without  work  and  so  in 
keeping  with  their  natural  tendencies,  that  it  is  doubtful  whether 
our  Southern  border  will  ever  be  safe,  except  it  be  by  force  of 
arms. 

From  1866  to  the  present  time,  Mexican  bandits  have  taken 
a  heavy  toll  in  lives  and  property  in  the  Big  Bend  District. 
With  a  view  to  showing  the  endless  warfare  this  troublesome 
people  has  waged  on  border  citizens,  a  few  examples  have  been 
taken  from  existing  records. 

1866 :  W.  O.  Burnham,  with  a  party  of  twenty-five  men, 
drove  1,200  cattle  over  the  Chihuahua  Trail  to  Chihuahua  City. 
Before  reaching  Paisano  Pass,  while  camped  at  Burgess'  Water- 
hole,  just  east  of  the  present  town  of  Alpine,  Burnham  saw 
seven  Mexicans,  who  were  suspiciously  hanging  around.  These 
Mexicans  had  a  small  bunch  of  cattle,  and  Burnham  thinking 
they  might  have  stolen  some  of  his  cattle,  decided  to  investigate. 
In  the  fight  which  followed,  the  Mexicans  were  overpowered. 
Burnham  found  none  of  his  cattle,  but  the  entire  outfit  was 
composed  of  cattle  stolen  from  other  American  herds.  The 
Mexicans  were  allowed  to  withdraw  their  dead. 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  377 

1876 :  August  Santleben,  returning  from  Chihuahua  with  a 
wagon-train  of  bullion,  over  the  Chihuahua  Trail,  was  attacked 
by  forty-two  Mexican  bandits,  but  the  bandits  were  forced  to 
withdraw.  Later  Santleben  saw  several  of  the  bandits  in 
Mexico,  but  was  powerless  to  act  against  them. 

1877 :  The  Salt  Lake  War.  Judge  Charles  Howard  located 
the  great  saline  deposit  north  of  Sierra  Blanco,  and  prohibited 
the  Mexicans  from  hauling  away  the  salt.  Louis  Cardise,  an 
Italian,  living  at  El  Paso,  championed  the  Mexicans.  Howard 
killed  Cardise,  which  so  enraged  the  Mexicans  that  a  mob  of 
several  hundred  came  over  from  Mexico,  upon  learning  that 
Howard  was  at  San  Elizario,  surrounded  Howard  and  a  force 
of  Texas  Rangers  sent  to  guard  him.  After  a  siege  of  two 
days,  Lieutenant  Tays,  of  the  Rangers,  surrendered.  Howard 
and  two  others  were  murdered  by  the  Mexicans. 

1891 :  A  party  of  Mexican  outlaws  headed  by  Catrino 
Neita,  attacked  the  ranch  home  of  Victoriano  Hernandez,  on 
Alamito  Creek,  wounded  Hernandez  and  killed  Oscar  Duke. 
Motive :  Cattle  stealing. 

1892:  Corporal  John  R.  Hughes  and  his  rangers  killed 
Florencio  Carrasco,  while  he  was  resisting  arrest.  Florencio 
was  an  outlaw  against  whom  several  murders  were  slated,  as 
well  as  considerable  stealing.  He  belonged  to  the  Mexican 
bandits  who  made  their  home  in  the  Coahuila  Mountains. 
This  occurred  opposite  the  San  Antonio  Colony,  on  the  Rio 
Grande. 

1893:  W.  T.  Henderson,  Lew  Butrill,  Jim  Wilson,  and 
several  other  cowmen  who  had  cow  outfits  near  the  Rio  Grande, 
between  Maravillas  Creek  and  Stillwell's  Crossing,  south  of 
Marathon  and  Sanderson,  had  1,200  cattle  stolen  and  crossed  to 
the  Mexico  side,  by  Mexicans  under  the  command  of  a  Lieu- 
tenant Puentes.  The  cowmen  obtained  a  small  reinforcement 
from  Marathon,  crossed  the  river  and,  after  a  two  days'  fight, 
managed  to  return  their  cattle  to  the  Texas  side. 

1911 :  Antonio  Carrasco  killed  Ranger  Sergeant  Fusselman 
and  Deputy  Sheriff  Pastrana,  in  the  Bloody  Peninsula — the 
Big  Bend.  Carrasco  was  the  leader  of  the  band  of  outlaws 


378  ROMANCE  OF  DA  VIS.  MOUNTAINS 

that  had  been  operating  in  the  Big  Bend  for  several  years. 
Many  deeds  of  violence  were  attributed  to  him.  He  was  cap- 
tured and  shot  at  Ojinaga,  Mexico,  by  order  of  Francisco 
Madero. 

1913:  Efifio  Torrez,  better  known  as  Coo-Coo  Torrez,  a 
Mexican  outlaw,  was  killed  while  under  arrest,  when  his  friends 
from  the  Mexico  side  ambushed  Texas  Ranger  J.  E.  Vaughn 
and  Ranchman  J.  W.  Pool.  This  was  the  culmination  of  a 
long  list  of  outrages  perpetrated  by  Coo-Coo  and  his  band  of 
murderers  and  cattle  thieves. 

1913 :  Jack  Howard,  river  guard,  was  killed  by  Lina  Baiza, 
who  also  wounded  J.  A.  Harvick,  Inspector  of  the  Texas  Cattle 
Raisers'  Association.  A  year  later  Biaza  was  killed  near  Pilares, 
Mexico,  by  officers  of  the  law. 

1914 :  A  band  of  Mexican  raiders  crossed  the  Rio  Grande 
southwest  of  Valentine,  and  drove  off  sixty  head  of  horses 
belonging  to  local  ranches.  At  the  same  time  two  other  raids 
were  reported  between  Valentine  and  Sierra  Blanco ;  one  near 
Van  Horn  and  one  near  Dalberg.  At  both  places  a  number  of 
horses  were  taken. 

1915 :  Pasqual  Orozco,  Jose  Delgado,  C.  Caballero,  Andres 
Sandoval,  and  Siguel  Terrazas  were  killed  in  a  fight  with  a 
sheriff's  posse  in  the  Van  Horn  Mountains,  Culberson  County. 
Orozco  was  an  escaped  revolutionist  from  Mexico  and  was  at 
that  time  reorganizing  his  band  on  the  Texas  side  for  a  return 
to  Mexico. 

The  above  raids  were  taken  at  random  from  a  long  list.  No 
year  from  1866  to  the  present  day  has  been  free  from  blood- 
shed. It  is  safe  to  say  that  no  peon  Mexican  respects  the  United 
States-Mexico  boundary,  whether  it  is  marked  by  the  Rio 
Grande  or  by  monuments.  He  plays  the  game  of  escaping  from 
the  authorities  on  the  side  of  the  river  which  is  pressing  him 
closest. 

Basically,  the  raiding  and  murdering  propensities  are  in  the 
peon  Mexican  blood  to  the  same  degree  as  that  found  by  our 
Government,  in  1850,  in  the  blood  of  the  Apache  and  Comanche. 
There  is  practically  no  difference  in  being  murdered  by  Indians 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  379 

belonging  to  the  Comanche  and  Apache  tribes,  and  being  mur- 
dered by  peon  Mexicans  who  are  the  descendants  of  these  or 
other  Indians. 

In  1850,  William  H.  C.  Whiting,  Lieutenant  of  Engineers, 
and  a  military  authority  on  border  warfare  and  conditions  made 
the  following  statement : 

"With  me  it  is  a  conviction  which  the  experience  of  each  day 
serves  only  to  strengthen,  that  the  country  will  continue  to  hear 
of  murders  and  robberies  in  Southwest  Texas,  and  its  citizens 
to  suffer,  until  authority  and  force  be  given  to  strike  at  the 
hearts  of  this  people.  (The  reference  here  is  to  the  Comanches 
and  Apaches).  .  .  .  The  early  history  of  our  western  posts 
.  .  .  the  policy  of  the  British  Government  with  her  Indians ; 
and,  above  all,  the  practice  of  those  sagacious  and  enterprising 
soldiers,  the  old  Spanish  adventurers,  all  teach  that  the  most 
efficient  system  with  such  an  enemy,  is  the  establishment  of  a 
powerful  garrison  in  their  midst;  and  the  surest,  and,  in  the 
end,  the  most  humane  preventative  is  retaliation."  And  Pre- 
sidio, Texas,  was  one  of  the  points  which  Lieutenant  Whiting 
pointed  out  as  being  most  important  to  the  preservation  of  order 
in  the  Big  Bend  of  the  Rio  Grande. 

A  scrutiny  of  the  topography  and  geography  of  the  section 
of  the  country  known  as  the  Big  Bend  of  the  Rio  Grande,  will 
show  its  favorable  location  for  the  successful  operation  by 
cattle-thieves,  smugglers  and  law  evaders. 

The  area  of  the  country  subjected  to  lawlessness  embraces 
15,000  square  miles ;  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  Rio  Grande, 
while  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  cuts  through  the  northern 
portion.  Some  idea  of  the  extent  of  this  "no  man's  land"  may 
be  gained  from  the  following : 

The  distance  from  river  points  to  the  railroad  varies  from 
40  miles  to  104  miles.  In  this  district  there  are  181  mountain 
peaks  over  4,000  feet  altitude — 70  peaks  above  4,000  feet ;  58 
peaks  above  5,000  feet ;  35  peaks  over  6,000  feet ;  15  peaks  from 
7,000  to  7,800  feet,  and  3  peaks  over  8,000  feet.  These  moun- 
tains, including  their  ranges  and  canyons,  cover  approximately 
8,000  square  miles,  or  53.33  per  cent  of  the  total  area.  These 


380  ROMANCE  OF  DAVIS  MOUNTAINS 

figures  are  taken  from  reports  furnished  by  the  University  of 
Texas,  in  Bulletin  No.  365. 

From  vital  statistics  obtained  from  the  above  source  and 
from  the  county  records  in  the  several  counties  concerned,  the 
following  holds  true :  Taking  the  county  poll-tax  records  of 
the  several  counties  as  a  basis,  we  find  that  there  is,  to  every  ten 
square  miles,  one  white  male  adult  only,  who  is  capable  and  will- 
ing to  help  uphold  the  law!  And  this  area  would  be  much 
larger,  if  we  excepted  a  large  number  of  ranchmen  who  live  in 
the  various  towns. 

The  white  male  adult  only  has  been  considered  for  the  rea- 
son that,  while  the  Mexican  may  be  a  peace-loving  citizen,  he  is 
rarely  active  in  furnishing  information  that  may  lead  to  the 
apprehension  of  local  criminals.  This  is  caused  partly  through 
an  imperfect  understanding  of  American  laws  and  the  English 
language ;  partly  through  fear  of  retaliation  on  the  part  of  the 
person,  or  his  friends,  on  whom  information  is  given,  and  partly 
through  sheer  indifference.  As  a  rule,  only  when  he  is  person- 
ally concerned,  will  the  Mexican  give  information  to  peace 
officers  or  to  the  military. 

A  country  so  thinly  settled  and  so  rugged  makes  an  ideal 
rendezvous  for  persons  of  loose  character  who  desire  to  remain 
unseen.  In  the  main,  this  class  is  composed  of  Mexicans  who 
have  "got  in  bad"  with  state  and  federal  officials,  and  who  strike 
out  for  this  great  "hole-in-the-wall"  country,  where  he  may 
evade  and  defy  the  officers,  and  turn  his  energies  to  the  lucra- 
tive profession  of  cattle-stealing  and  smuggling.  Reaching  his 
harbor  in  safety,  he  may  take  up  a  few  sections  of  land  and  un- 
der guise  of  running  a  few  cattle,  "burn"  the  brands  of  a  dozen 
cow  outfits  without  much  danger  of  being  caught  red-handed  in 
the  act;  and  dispose  of  his  stolen  stock,  either  through  un- 
scrupulous merchants  along  the  border,  or  smuggle  his  stock 
across  the  river  to  confederates  on  the  Mexico  side.  Or  he  may 
choose  to  remain  "on  the  dodge"  in  the  Rim  Rock  county, 
Chinati  or  Chisos  Mountains,  with  little  fear  of  being  caught — 
so  rough  and  broken  are  those  regions. 

The  operations  of  these  cattle-thieves  and  outlaws  are  so 


AND  BIG  BEND  COUNTRY  381 

interwoven  with  the  operations  of  confederates  and  brigands 
from  the  Mexico  side  of  the  Rio  Grande,  that  it  is  difficult  to 
give  a  separate  detailed  account  of  their  deeds.  The  cattleman, 
who  ranches  in  the  outlaw  zone,  is  very  reticent  concerning  his 
losses,  although  he  may  have  well-founded  suspicions  as  to  who 
the  guilty  persons  are.  So  long  as  he  is  protected  by  a  posse 
or  a  detachment  of  soldiers,  he  feels  safe ;  but  he  knows  fulF 
well  that  a  time  will  come  when  he  will  be  caught  on  his  ranch 
alone ;  and  one  of  the  methods  of  instilling  fear  in  the  hearts  of 
their  victims,  is  for  the  outlaws  to  appear  suddenly  at  a  ranch- 
man's headquarters,  call  him  to  the  door,  and  shoot  him  down. 
This  method,  with  slight  variations,  constitutes  sufficient  rea- 
sons for  much  knowledge  of  the  stealing  never  reaching  the 
public.  But  the  majority  of  the  law-abiding  citizens  know  of  the 
conditions,  without  being  able  to  remedy  them. 

Despite  all  these  obstacles,  the  West-of-the-Pecos  country 
has  grown  and  prospered.  Nowhere  in  the  world  will  be  found 
a  higher  type  of  citizenship.  Good  churches  and  good  schools 
are  everywhere  in  evidence,  and  culture  and  refinement  are  met 
with  on  all  sides.  Nor  must  the  reader  believe  that  it  is  entirely 
a  land  of  raids  and  border  warfare.  Through  the  heart  of  the 
country  runs  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway — a  dead  line  which 
no  Mexican  bandit  has  had  the  intrepidity  to  cross.  The  final 
settlement  of  the  troubles  in  Mexico  and  along  the  border  will 
insure  the  future  of  this  great  country. 

END. 


